5_ 6 L Cutting Grafting Layering and Budding Autosaved.pptx

propagation of horticulture crop

1. Horticultural Practices: Cutting, Layering, Grafting & Budding .

2. VEGETATIVE PROPAGATION IN HORTICULTURE A form of asexual reproduction Vegetative parts – stem, leaf, root etc. are the propagules. Goal (Objective) - Production of clones – identical in genotype to a single source plant METHODS Natural – rhizome, bulbs, corms, runners, suckers, offsets, bulbils etc. Artificial – cutting, grafting, budding, layering etc.

3. CUTTING A part of the plant which will produce roots and eventually a new plant. Easy, convenient method Most commonly used method in Horticulture. TYPES Stem cutting, leaf cutting, root cutting

4. STEM CUTTINGS i) Stem – tip cutting 3 inches long leafy stem tip is used – Lantana , Duranta , Phyllanthus

5. STEM CUTTINGS… ii) Stem- section cutting pieces of stems with at least one bud is used – Rose, Hibiscus , Tapioca, Croton , Coleus . Stem cuttings - Herbaceous cuttings, Softwood cuttings, Semi – hardwood cuttings, hardwood cuttings

6. HERBACEOUS CUTTINGS 7.5 – 12.5 cm long terminal leafy portion of vigorous shoots of herbaceous plants. Leaves are removed from the basal portion Soft, tender, succulent. Cuttings should be prepared just before they are placed in the rooting medium e.g. Coleus , Sweet potato, Dahlia

7. SOFT – WOOD CUTTINGS Cuttings are made from soft, succulent, non – lignified new growth of some woody plants. 10 -15 cm long terminal portion with terminal buds is cut. Some leaves should be retained. Treatment with auxins IBA or NAA is beneficial.

8. SEMI-HARDWOOD CUTTINGS 7.5 to 15 cm long cuttings are taken from growing terminal shoots -partially matured , slightly woody . Leaves from the basal portion should be removed , but the terminal leaves are retained. Treating cuttings with auxins before planting is beneficial. Shade and humidity are essential for rooting.

9. HARDWOOD CUTTINGS Cuttings made from past season’s growth or wood – mature, lignified . If rooting is easy, this is the cheapest and easiest method. 1 year old shoot is preferred , but in some cases 2 year old wood is used. Cuttings may be 10 – 30 cm , diameter – 1 to 2.5 cm E.g. –Pomegranate, Mulberry, Fig, Gooseberry.

10. TYPES OF HARDWOOD CUTTINGS Straight cutting- does not include any older wood at the base. Most commonly used type. Heel cutting - A small piece of older wood is retained. Mallet cutting - A small section of the branch of an older wood is retained. Meaning -a hammer with a large, usually wooden head)

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12. LEAF CUTTINGS Whole leaf – Saintpaulia (African violet)- matured leaves with petioles are used for making leaf cuttings. Leaf petiole -

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14. Saintpaulia (African violet) Image:https://plantcaretoday.com/

15. Saintpaulia (African violet)

16. Begonia In Begonia , an incision is made on the large veins of a thick fleshy leaf.

17. Sansevieria Leaf sections - 5 to 10 cm long leaf sections New plants may develop within a month at the base of the leaf cutting.

18. Leaf Bud Cuttings Consists of a leaf blade, petiole and a small piece of stem (1 to 1.5 cm )containing a dormant axillary bud. Well developed leaves from current season’s growth are used. This method is valuable in cases where propagating materials are scarce. e.g. Lemon, Camelia.

19. LEAF BUD CUTTING

20. Bryophyllum

21. ROOT CUTTINGS Easy method Root cuttings are taken in early or late winter or early spring when the roots are well supplied with reserve carbohydrates. In root cuttings, adventitious shoots are regenerated. E.g. Guava, Apple, Pear, Bread fruit tree.

22. ROOT CUTTINGS

23. ROOT CUTTINGS… .

24. ROOT INITIATION IN CUTTINGS The primary regenerative process required – adventitious root formation. Plants with preformed root initials( Latent root initials) root rapidly. (Latent root initials - develop naturally on stems while they are still attached to the parent plant , remain dormant until cuttings are made and placed in suitable rooting medium . In old trees of apple cultivars, preformed latent roots cause swelling called burr knots )

25. ROOT INITIATION IN CUTTINGS… Wound – induced roots – adventitious roots develop in response to wounting after the cutting is made. De novo root regeneration (DNRR) is  the process of root organogenesis for recovery from damage . 

26. Factors influencing regeneration of adventitious roots Carbohydrate reserve- Cuttings from well nourished plants with carbohydrate reserve- more successful. A high C/N ratio favour rooting Optimum moisture conditions Loose, well drained rooting medium with plenty of Oxygen content. Diffuse sunlight

27. Factors influencing regeneration of adventitious roots… Age of the plant from where the cutting is made – cuttings from young plants root in higher percentages than cuttings taken from older, mature plants. Cuttings taken from lateral shoots often root better than cuttings from terminal shoots. Delicate stems and more mature cuttings root only poorly. Seasons – rooting vary during different seasons.

28. Factors influencing regeneration of adventitious roots… Auxin level in plants – treating cuttings with auxins increase rooting. IBA – most effective, non- toxic over a wide concentration range. NAA IAA Mixture of auxins – more beneficial –IBA & IAA; IBA & NAA. Cuttings from woody, difficult –to- root species should be treated with higher auxin concentration. Tender, succulent and easily rooted species should be treated with lower – strength formulations.

29. ROOTING HORMONES Powder Concentrated liquid formulations Examples: Indian Gardening All Purpose Root hormone Sterling Rootomax Fast Roots Dip ‘N’Grow The Garden store RooTer.

30. METHODS OF APPLICATION OF ROOTING HORMONES Quick dip method (Concentrated solution dip – 500 – 10,000 ppm ) – 0.05 – 1.0 % for 3-5 sec. P r o l o n g dip m e thod( D i l u t e s o lut i on soaking method) – 20 ppm for easily rooting cuttings 200 ppm for more difficult – to- root cuttings. Basal part , 2.5cm – 1 inch of cuttings is soaked in a dilute solution of the material for about 24 hours just before they are inserted into the rooting medium. Not favoured commercially.

31. METHODS OF APPLICATION OF ROOTING HORMONES… Powder (Talc) Method – Fresh cuts are made at the base of the cuttings shortly before they are dipped into the powder. Tap the cuttings to remove excess hormone. Paste method – Take freshly prepared cuttings and apply a small quantity of paste at the cut end.

32. METHODS OF APPLICATION OF ROOTING HORMONES… Insert the cuttings 1/3 to ½ their length to a suitable medium for rooting. Avoid direct sunlight Keep the rooting medium moist until the cuttings have rooted. When cuttings have developed several strong roots, they can be transplanted into soil.

33. ROOTING MEDIA Coarse sand Vermiculite- hydrated mineral , Aluminium- Iron- Magnesium silicates. Increases water and nutrients retention Aerates the soil. Perlite – Glassy silicate (SiO2) of volcanic origin – used as non-organic additive to aerate the medium Any other material.

34. ROOTING MEDIUM : VERMICULITE

35. ROOTING MEDIUM : PERLITE

36. L A YE R ING eg. Guava, Litchi, Apple, Sapota, Cashew plant Stem is induced to root while it is still attached to the parent plant. Rooted stem - a layer. Layers removed from the parent plant and used for propagation. Oldest technique – used to propagate many woody shrub and tree species. Reliable and easy method - in species which are difficult - to - root on cuttings

37. ROOT FORMATION IN LAYERING Root formation is stimulated by various stem treatments – Girdling Incision and bending of the stem This cause an interruption in the downward translocation of organic substances – carbohydrates, auxins and other growth factors from the leaves and shoot tips. These materials accumulate near the point of treatment and rooting occurs at the point of interruption.

38. GIRDLING

39. ROOT FORMATION IN LAYERING… Application of root – promoting substances – IBA – profuse rooting – applied as a powder/paste/solution. Light exclusion in the rooting zone – in hard – to- root clones. Covering the growing shoots by the rooting medium produces etiolation - the greatest stimulus to root induction.

40. ETIOLATION Exclusion of light – as a part of propagation process promotes adventitious root initiation in stem tissues – reduces the photodecomposition of naturally occurring auxins which favours root initiation process. Reduction in mechanical tissues Reduction in lignification

41. ETIOLATION… Reduced cell differentiation All these enhance the potential for root initiation.

42. L A YERING… When root formation is complete, the layers are cut from the mother plant and are potted in suitable containers Keep them in a cool, humid place for further growth.

43. TYPES OF LAYERING

44. SIMPLE LAYERING Easiest and most efficient method Select a healthy, dormant, one year old , flexible branch towards the base of the plant , nearer to the ground , 50 – 60 cm. Bend the branch at a location 15 -20 cm from the tip forming a “U” Bending, twisting, cutting or girdling at the bottom of the “U” stimulates rooting at the location – interrupts the downward movement of metabolites from leaves – results in accumulation of carbohydrates and hormones above the notch or girdle or ring – stimulates root formation. Cover the rooting region with soil , leaving the tip exposed .

45. SIMPLE LAYERING … Water the layered portion regularly till root initiation In most plants, rooting is complete within 4-8 weeks Rooted layer is cut from the parent plant Keep in a pot in a nursery for about 1 year before planting.

46. TIP LAYERING

47. COMPOUND OR SERPENTINE LAYERING

48. COMPOUND OR SERPENTINE LAYERING… Used for propagation of plants that have long, flexible shoots – Jasminum, Clematis A branch is alternately covered and exposed along its length. Select a healthy, flexible, long branch( 100- 250 cm ) ,near the ground. Give sharp, slanting invert cut passing through the node at 30 cm, 60 cm, 90 cm and 150 cm from the tip.

49. COMPOUND OR SERPENTINE LAYERING… Bend the shoot gently to the ground and insert the cut portions of the stem alternately into the soil and cover the rooting region with soil. Keep a stone on the covered soil to keep the branch in place. Water the layered portion regularly till rooted layer is separated.

50. AIR LAYERING ( Gootee , Marcottage, Chinese layerage, Pot layerage)

51. AIR LAYERING…

52. AIR LAYERING…

53. AIR LAYERING…

54. AIR LAYERING…

55. AIR LAYERING… Usually done in Spring or in Monsoon Long, 1 – 2 year old shoots are used. Leaves are removed from the base of the shoot to be layered Stem is girdled by removing a ring of bark about 2 – 3 cm wide at its base. Scrape the exposed surface to ensure the complete removal of phloem and cambium to avoid premature healing .

56. AIR LAYERING… Girdling Reduces water conductivity Helps in accumulation of carbohydrates and hormones which are necessary for easy and profuse rooting. Application of IBA to the exposed area is beneficial. The girdled area is covered with moist soil / Sphagnum moss and wrapped with polyethylene sheet (high permeability to gases, low transmission of water vapour) Two ends are then tied. Rooting takes place within 4 – 8 weeks. After observing the fully developed roots through the transparent polyethylene sheet , separate the layered shoot from the parent plant by a gradual cut.

57. AIR LAYERING… The rooted layer is separated from the parent plant in two or three stages to reduce the shock of sudden separation First a ‘V’ – shaped cut is made below 2.5 cm from the point of root emergence . After a week, the cut is deepened A few days later, the final cut is given and the layer is separated from the parent plant and is used for propagation.

58. MOUND LAYERING (STOOL LAYERING, STOOLING)

59. MOUND LAYERING… Plant is cut 2.5 cm from the ground level during dormant season When the newly developed shoots have grown 7-15 cm tall , moist soil is heaped around the base of the newly developing shoots to half of its height – causes etiolation –encourages root formation. When the roots have grown 20 -25 cm , add soil to half of the shoot.

60. MOUND LAYERING… Add soil again when the shoots have grown to a height of 35 – 45 cm Water the heaped soil regularly Allow sufficient time for rooting (2- 3 months) So m e times, t o enc o u r a g e r o o t d e v elop m e n t, ringin g o r gi r dl i ng a t the b a se of shoots a n d a p pli c a ti o n o f r o o t the y oung p r om o t ing substances are practised. Cut the rooted shoots close to their base and can be used for propagation e.g. Apple, Goose berry, Hydrangia etc.

61. TRENCH OR CONTINUOUS LAYERING

62. TRENCH OR CONTINUOUS LAYERING… Mother plants are established in a slopping position horizontally such that the shoots can be layered horizontally in the base of a trench. Soil, bark, sawdust or other rooting material is filled in around the new shoots – etiolation. Used for most difficult - to – root clones – Cherry, Apple, Mulberry, Walnut etc.

63. TRENCH OR CONTINUOUS LAYERING… Establishing the Layer bed 1 year old plants are planted at an angle of 30 to 45 ° in the row By the end of growing season , a shallow trench of 5 x 23 cm is dug down the row. The plants are brought down to a horizontal level and “pegged” carefully so that they are flat on the bottom of the trench along with strong lateral branches.

64. TRENCH OR CONTINUOUS LAYERING… Second year Buds are covered with about 2.5 cm soil Rooting medium such as saw dust are added periodically to etiolate 5 -7.5 cm of the developing shoots - final depth should be 15 – 19 cm - Successful layering depends upon etiolation.

65. TRENCH OR CONTINUOUS LAYERING… Rooting should takes place at the end of the season – saw dust is removed & rooted layers are cut off close to the original branch leaving a small stub for next year’s growth. The process is repeated in subsequent years A well cared mother bed should last for 15 to 20 years.

66. BUDDING A f orm v e g et a ti v e bu d i s t a k en of g r a ft i n g i n wh i ch from a si n gle one pl a n t (scion) and inserted into the stem tissue of another ( rootstock ) so that the two will unite and grow together. The inserted bud develop into new shoot.

67. AIMS/ OBJECTIVES OF BUDDING To perpetuate the clone that can not be readily reproduced by other methods of propagation. To obtain the good qualities of certain root stocks – for cold hardiness, disease resistance, salt tolerance etc. For changing the cultivars of established plants(top – working) For hastening the growth of seedling.

68. TYPES OF BUDDING T- BUDDING (SHIELD BUDDING)

69. T- BUDDING (SHIELD BUDDING)…

70. T- BUDDING… Done when the stock plant is in active growth and the cambial cells are actively dividing so that the bark separates easily from the wood- slipping Shield budding – shield like appearance of the bud piece from the scion.

71. T- BUDDING - Procedure Select stock & scion (bud stick) Select a sui t able i n t ernoda l smooth bark (15 -20 cm from the ground level) Give a vertical cut , 2.5 – 3.7 cm (bark only) At the top of the vertical cut, give another horizontal cut T –shaped incision. Lift the bark piece on either side of the vertical cut for insertion of bud.

72. T- BUDDING – Procedure… The scion bud is removed in the form of a shield. Insert the bud between the flaps of bark on the stock Wrap the bud and stock firmly in such a way that the bud is fully exposed.

73. INVERTED T - BUDDING

74. INVERTED T – BUDDING… Similar to T – budding except that the horizontal cut is made at the bottom of the vertical cut. Used to prevent the possible entry of water from the top of the T- cut which may cause rotting of the shield piece.

75. PATCH BUDDING

76. PATCH BUDDING… Done during the period when the bark of stock and scion slip easily. A rectangular patch of bark is completely removed from the stock – on the stock plant give 2 transverse cuts – width 1 to 2.5 cm ( only bark deep) parallel to each other and with a distance of about 2.5 to 3.75 cm between them.

77. PATCH BUDDING… Join the transverse cuts at their ends by two vertical cuts and remove the patch of bark. On the scion, give 2 transverse cuts and vertical cuts of similar dimension as above and remove the bark patch with the bud. Insert the bud patch on the stock Wrap the bud joint with budding tape, exposing the bud.

78. I - BUDDING

79. I – BUDDING… Make 2 transverse cuts through the bark of the root stock Join these cuts at their centre by a single vertical cut → I – shaped incision . Cut the bud patch in the form of a rectangle or square. Raise the 2 flaps of bark and insert the bud patch inside the flaps. Tie with budding tape, exposing the bud. Remove the budding tape when the union is complete.

80. CHIP BUDDING

81. CHIP BUDDING… CHIP BUDDING

82. CHIP BUDDING IN APPLE Image: https://www.rhs.org.uk/

83. CHIP BUDDING… Done when the bark does not slip well. A chip of bark , 2.5 – 3 cm long is removed from a smooth portion of internode of the stock. Another chip of the same size and shape with a bud is removed from the scion and placed on the stock. Wrap it exposing the bud . Stock is cut back when the union is complete and the bud starts growing . Used in Citrus, Apple etc.

84. RING (ANNULAR ) BUDDING

85. RING (ANNULAR ) BUDDING

86. RING (ANNULAR ) BUDDING… Done when the bark slips easily. Stock and scion should be of the same diameter A ring of bark (1.25 – 2.5 cm) with a bud is loosened from the scion and slipped off from one end of the branch. The stock is cut back to a height where the budding is to be done – a portion of the bark is peeled off and the scion is slipped down over the stock. Wrap with a budding tape , exposing the bud.

87. FLUTE BUDDING

88. FLUTE BUDDING… Done when the bark slips easily Remove the bark encircling the root stock almost completely , leaving a narrow strip of bark – on the stock plant, give 2 vertical cuts (2.5 – 3.75 cm) , parallel to each other and with a distance of 1/8 of the circumference of the stock plant .

89. FLUTE BUDDING… Joint the ends of these two vertical cuts by 2 parallel horizontal cuts and remove the bark piece Similar cuts are also given in the bud sticks and remove the bark piece with bud. Insert the scion on the stock Wrap with budding tape , exposing the bud. After the union and the bud starts to grow , remove the tape and cut the top of the stock

90. FORKERT BUDDING(FLAP BUDDING) A transverse cut and two vertical cuts joining the transverse cuts are given on the stock and the bark is carefully peeled along these cuts, but remain attached on the lower side in the form of a flap. The scion bud of the size corresponding to the cut made on the stock is removed The bud patch is fitted into the exposed portion of the stock . The flap of the bark of stock is used to cover the inserted bud patch and remove a little portion to expose the bud and wrapped with budding tape.

91. FORKERT BUDDING… When the union is complete , the budding tape is removed and the flap is cutoff. When the bud starts growing, cut the top of the stock e.g. Rubber, Teak etc.

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