A Report on Apparel Internship at Pearl Global Industries Limited

3,295 views 121 slides Apr 11, 2023
Slide 1
Slide 1 of 121
Slide 1
1
Slide 2
2
Slide 3
3
Slide 4
4
Slide 5
5
Slide 6
6
Slide 7
7
Slide 8
8
Slide 9
9
Slide 10
10
Slide 11
11
Slide 12
12
Slide 13
13
Slide 14
14
Slide 15
15
Slide 16
16
Slide 17
17
Slide 18
18
Slide 19
19
Slide 20
20
Slide 21
21
Slide 22
22
Slide 23
23
Slide 24
24
Slide 25
25
Slide 26
26
Slide 27
27
Slide 28
28
Slide 29
29
Slide 30
30
Slide 31
31
Slide 32
32
Slide 33
33
Slide 34
34
Slide 35
35
Slide 36
36
Slide 37
37
Slide 38
38
Slide 39
39
Slide 40
40
Slide 41
41
Slide 42
42
Slide 43
43
Slide 44
44
Slide 45
45
Slide 46
46
Slide 47
47
Slide 48
48
Slide 49
49
Slide 50
50
Slide 51
51
Slide 52
52
Slide 53
53
Slide 54
54
Slide 55
55
Slide 56
56
Slide 57
57
Slide 58
58
Slide 59
59
Slide 60
60
Slide 61
61
Slide 62
62
Slide 63
63
Slide 64
64
Slide 65
65
Slide 66
66
Slide 67
67
Slide 68
68
Slide 69
69
Slide 70
70
Slide 71
71
Slide 72
72
Slide 73
73
Slide 74
74
Slide 75
75
Slide 76
76
Slide 77
77
Slide 78
78
Slide 79
79
Slide 80
80
Slide 81
81
Slide 82
82
Slide 83
83
Slide 84
84
Slide 85
85
Slide 86
86
Slide 87
87
Slide 88
88
Slide 89
89
Slide 90
90
Slide 91
91
Slide 92
92
Slide 93
93
Slide 94
94
Slide 95
95
Slide 96
96
Slide 97
97
Slide 98
98
Slide 99
99
Slide 100
100
Slide 101
101
Slide 102
102
Slide 103
103
Slide 104
104
Slide 105
105
Slide 106
106
Slide 107
107
Slide 108
108
Slide 109
109
Slide 110
110
Slide 111
111
Slide 112
112
Slide 113
113
Slide 114
114
Slide 115
115
Slide 116
116
Slide 117
117
Slide 118
118
Slide 119
119
Slide 120
120
Slide 121
121

About This Presentation

A report on mandatory apparel internship for B.FTech (Apparel Production) by NIFT (National Institute of Fashion Technology) at Pearl Global Industries Limited, Udyog Vihar Phase V, Gurugram, Haryana.


Slide Content

A REPORT ON APPAREL INTERNSHIP
Pearl Global Industries Limited








National Institute of Fashion Technology, Patna, 2022

Submitted by:
Akansha Choudhary (BFT/19/286)
Shivam (BFT/19/1118)
Pranav Kumar (BFT/19/1101)


Under the guidance of:
Jayant Kumar
(Assistant Professor)
(Department of Fashion Technology)

1 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report

Declaration


This is to declare that this document is the original work done by the following
students of Department of Fashion Technology, semester 7, under the guidance of
the college mentor, assistant professor, Mr. Jayant Kumar.


Akansha Choudhary
Pranav Kumar
Shivam






Asst. Prof. Jayant Kumar
(Mentor)

2 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report

3 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report

4 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report

5 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Acknowledgement


We would like to pour a few heartfelt words for the people who helped us to
accomplish this apparel internship. We wish to express our gratitude to everybody
who has offered assistance to us in the learning journey during this internship. Apart
from extending our thankfulness towards many, we would also like to mention a few
people without whom we could not have attained the conclusion of this project in a
quick and efficient manner. We wish to thank our course coordinator, Miss Nilima R.
Topno for providing us a wonderful opportunity such as this accompanied by
constant motivation and encouragement.

Our gratefulness to Mr. Bhagwan Dass, Human Resources Manager, Pearl Global
Industries Limited, for accepting our request to be a part of an apparel internship in
their prestigious company is boundless. Their consent paved way for us to work and
expand our learning curve in the apparel industry as internees.

We are immensely thankful to Miss Ritu Thapa, executive, as well as our industry
mentor, for constantly guiding us as well as providing us all the required facilities
throughout our internship period.

6 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Contents


Company Overview .................................................................................................. 12
Factsheet .............................................................................................................. 12
Values ................................................................................................................... 13
Aim ........................................................................................................................ 13
Business Divisions ................................................................................................ 13
Major Market ......................................................................................................... 15
Services ................................................................................................................ 15
Clientele ................................................................................................................ 15
Products ................................................................................................................ 17
Corporate Social Responsibility ............................................................................ 18
Departments ......................................................................................................... 19
Merchandising Department ...................................................................................... 21
Role of the department ......................................................................................... 21
Objective of merchandiser .................................................................................... 21
Functioning of the department .............................................................................. 24
Costing .................................................................................................................. 24
Detailed process activities .................................................................................... 27
Costing Sheet ....................................................................................................... 29
Sampling Department ............................................................................................... 30
Types of samples .................................................................................................. 30
The details attached to the garment sample ......................................................... 32
CAD Department ...................................................................................................... 35
Process flow .......................................................................................................... 35
Working Procedure: .............................................................................................. 37
Technique for marker placement .......................................................................... 37
R&D Department ...................................................................................................... 39
Order processing procedure ................................................................................. 39
Types of files maintained in R&D department ....................................................... 40
Fabric Testing Department ....................................................................................... 41
Fabric Sourcing Department .................................................................................... 44
Process flow .......................................................................................................... 44

7 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Fabric audit and inspection department ................................................................ 45
Process flow for bulk purchase ............................................................................. 45
FOB (First of Bulk) Submission ............................................................................. 46
Process flow for buyer nominated supplier ........................................................... 47
Fabric Store and Fabric Audit ............................................................................... 48
Bulk Fabric Inspection Shading: ............................................................................ 48
Four Point System: ............................................................................................... 48
Bulk Fabric Testing ............................................................................................... 48
Accessories Store Department ................................................................................. 50
Spreading & Cutting Department ............................................................................. 51
Process flow .......................................................................................................... 51
Spreading.............................................................................................................. 52
Cutting .................................................................................................................. 53
Sewing Department .................................................................................................. 56
Working of a sewing room..................................................................................... 57
Industrial Engineering ............................................................................................... 60
Reports formed by the I.E. Department ................................................................ 61
Production Planning and Control Department .......................................................... 63
The objectives of PPC .......................................................................................... 63
Washing Department ................................................................................................ 66
Washing process .................................................................................................. 66
Quality Department .................................................................................................. 67
Fabric inspection ................................................................................................... 67
Cutting inspection ................................................................................................. 67
Batch inspection .................................................................................................... 68
Final audit ............................................................................................................. 68
Finishing and Packaging Department....................................................................... 70
Process flow .......................................................................................................... 70
Kaj Button Department ............................................................................................. 73
Process Flow ........................................................................................................ 73
Sewing Line Time Study ........................................................................................... 75
Garment description .............................................................................................. 75
Time study terminology ......................................................................................... 78
Time Study ............................................................................................................ 80
Line 4 .................................................................................................................... 80

8 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Line 21 .................................................................................................................. 82
Project 1 ................................................................................................................... 84
Objective ............................................................................................................... 84
Problem................................................................................................................. 84
Relevant terminology ............................................................................................ 84
Operation breakdown ............................................................................................ 85
Calculations .......................................................................................................... 88
Results .................................................................................................................. 97
Conclusion ............................................................................................................ 97
Project 2 ................................................................................................................... 98
Needle running Time ............................................................................................. 98
Existing methods to calculate needle running time ............................................... 98
Our model ............................................................................................................. 99
Source code: ....................................................................................................... 100
Advantages of this device: .................................................................................. 108
Appendices ............................................................................................................ 109
Appendix II – Company and machine details ...................................................... 109
Appendix III – Spreading department .................................................................. 110
Appendix IV – Cutting department ...................................................................... 111
Appendix VI – Merchandising Department .......................................................... 111
Appendix VII – Apaprel CAD evaluation format .................................................. 113
Appendix IX – Plant layout .................................................................................. 120

9 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
List of Figures


Figure 1. An Integrated Business Model .................................................................. 14
Figure 2. Global Footprint ......................................................................................... 14
Figure 3. Buyers ....................................................................................................... 16
Figure 4. Product Range .......................................................................................... 17
Figure 5. Product Profile ........................................................................................... 17
Figure 6. Organisation Hierarchy ............................................................................. 19
Figure 7. Merchandising Room ................................................................................ 21
Figure 8. Merchandiser Relationship ........................................................................ 23
Figure 9. Merchandising Room ................................................................................ 24
Figure 10. Functioning of Merchandising Dept. ........................................................ 26
Figure 11. Process Flow of Sampling Dept. ............................................................. 33
Figure 12. Process Flow of CAD Dept. ..................................................................... 35
Figure 13. CAD Desktop .......................................................................................... 36
Figure 14. Digitizer Board ......................................................................................... 36
Figure 15. Pattern Plotting Machine ......................................................................... 37
Figure 16. Process Flow of R&D Dept. ..................................................................... 39
Figure 17. R&D Room .............................................................................................. 39
Figure 18. Fabric Testing Department ...................................................................... 41
Figure 19. Shrinkage Measurement Table ............................................................... 42
Figure 20. Process Flow of Fabric Sourcing Department ......................................... 44
Figure 21. Rack Details ............................................................................................ 45
Figure 22. Fabric Inspection ..................................................................................... 46
Figure 23. Fabric Storage Rack ............................................................................... 47
Figure 24. Audit Table .............................................................................................. 48
Figure 25. Accessories Storage Rack ...................................................................... 50
Figure 26. Process Flow of Spreading & Cutting Dept. ............................................ 51
Figure 27. Manual Spreading ................................................................................... 52
Figure 28. Automatic Spreading Machine ................................................................ 52
Figure 29. Straight Knife Cutter ................................................................................ 53
Figure 30. Ply Numbering ......................................................................................... 54
Figure 31. Sewing Department ................................................................................. 56
Figure 32. Washing Department .............................................................................. 66
Figure 33. Process Flow of Finishing Dept. .............................................................. 70
Figure 34. Initial Checking ........................................................................................ 71
Figure 35. Iron Press ................................................................................................ 71
Figure 36. Spotting ................................................................................................... 72
Figure 37. Process Flow of Kaj Button Dept. ............................................................ 73
Figure 38. Techpack................................................................................................. 75
Figure 39. Operation Bulletin .................................................................................... 76
Figure 40. Machine Layout ....................................................................................... 77
Figure 41. Rate per Operation graph for original layout ........................................... 90
Figure 42. Precedence Diagram .............................................................................. 93

10 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Figure 43. Rate per Operation graph for New Layout............................................... 96
Figure 44. Original Layout Rate v/s New Layout Rate.............................................. 97
Figure 45. Sewing Machine Needle ......................................................................... 98
Figure 46. Google Cloud .......................................................................................... 99
Figure 47. NodeMCU Microcontroller ....................................................................... 99
Figure 48. Ultrasonic Sensor .................................................................................... 99
Figure 49. Google Sheets Screen .......................................................................... 107
Figure 50. Device Application ................................................................................. 108
Figure 51. Set-up of Device .................................................................................... 108
Figure 52. Plant Layout .......................................................................................... 120

11 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
List of Tables


Table 1. Time Study of Line 4 .................................................................................. 82
Table 2. Time Study of Line 21 ................................................................................ 83
Table 3. Operation Bulletin ....................................................................................... 88
Table 4. Original Product Layout .............................................................................. 90
Table 5. Precedence Chart ...................................................................................... 92
Table 6. New Product Layout ................................................................................... 95
Table 7. Company and Machine Details ................................................................. 110
Table 8. Spreading Department ............................................................................. 110
Table 9. Cutting Department .................................................................................. 111
Table 10. Merchandising Department .................................................................... 112

12 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Company Overview
Pearl Global is a global clothes distributor and supplier that offers end-to-end
solutions consisting of a full range of wardrobe options. It is an international ready-to-
wear clothing company currently operating in six critical locations over two
continents, utilizing the assets of each region to substantial value for its clients, with
a turnover of 270 million USD. It has complete control over the whole value chain,
from design and development to manufacturing and sourcing to pre-retail services,
warehousing, and on-demand delivery to clients' doorsteps. Pearl Global is an
authentically global multi-country, multi-product, multi-continent, multi-domain
company that has triumphed in amalgamating differing cultures and people.

Pearl Global Industries Ltd. was founded in 1987 with the goal of being a global
supplier to the world's top fashion shops. It is one of the few Indian garments export
firms with a stock exchange listing (BSE & NSE). It is also the only Indian company
offering multi-country manufacturing and a wide range of products to clients (woven
soft separates, knits, bottoms, denim and non-denim, and outerwear). The company
boasts of a remarkable global design and sales infrastructure, as well its extensive
manufacturing base in India, Bangladesh, Indonesia, and Vietnam, and Changzhou,
China-based raw material procurement offices. Quality, corporate social
responsibility, sustainability, and ethical work practices are vital priorities sworn by
Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Every year, the company adds additional plants and
machinery to its modernization and growth plans in each country where it operates. It
is also looking into establishing factories and expanding the production base in new
forthcoming manufacturing centers.

Factsheet
Nature of Business Exporter and Manufacturer
Additional Business
• Exporter
• Supplier
• Distributor
Company CEO Sachin Gupta
Year of
Establishment
2010
Legal Status of Firm Limited Company (Ltd./Pvt.Ltd.)
Annual Turnover Rs. 500 - 1000 Crore

13 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Values
 Pearl Global believes that any business activity can be ethical only when it
rests on the nine core values: honesty, integrity, trust, fairness, respect,
purposefulness, responsibility, caring, and citizenship.
 The substance of these undertakings is that each employee conducts the
company’s business with uprightness, in compliance with relevant laws, and
in a way that separates considerations of personal advantage.
 The company does not forget these values in any situation, no matter what
goals it has to achieve. The means hold the same importance as the ends.

Aim
 Adding Value to Community
 A Proud Heritage - Inspiring Future

Mission: Continuously deliver shareholder value by enhancing our financial
performance through long-term and solid customer relationships.
Vision: To be the most preferred vendor to the top global apparel brands and be
ranked amongst the leading garment manufacturers in the world in terms of quality,
service standards and ultimately - customer satisfaction.
Registered Name: PEARL GLOBAL INDUSTRIES LIMITED
Founded in: 1987 (35 years old)
Website: pearlglobal.com

Business Divisions
 Design and development – Over 30 designers working over the group
continually provide the latest design inputs on the latest design trends
internationally, and the presentation of product ideas from across the globe
provides the buyer a sense of cross–country trends. It has got dedicated
fabric development and sampling unit in China and India.
 Manufacturing – As of today, it is operating in ten modern ready-to-wear
apparel manufacturing facilities, out of which seven are located in India, two in
Bangladesh, and one in Indonesia.
 Sourcing – Hong Kong is one of the world's largest hubs for garment
sourcing.
 Marketing – It has integrated marketing and merchandising teams in Canada,
Europe, HK, the UK, and the US, closely interacting with existing and potential
customers at their doorstep.

14 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
 Logistics and warehousing – The organization has warehousing, logistics,
and distribution infrastructure in the UK and the US. It also offers services like
logistics and transportation, ironing and storage, garment processing, quality
control, and reverse logistics.














Figure 2. Global Footprint

Marketing, Distribution
and Branding
Design and
Development
Logistics and
Warehousing
Manufacturing
Sourcing
R
E
T
A
I
L
E
R
S
FOB
FOB
LDP
Distinctive business model offering multiple sourcing options to customers
Figure 1. An Integrated Business Model

15 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Major Market
Dedicated marketing teams are located at various locations, from a stone's throw to
the customer to the needlepoint globally. They allow the customer to get a real-time
view of the process and production, product integrity according to price and delivery
points. Marketing offices are situated in Indonesia, India, Bangladesh far east, and
the USA .

The United States office front puts an end to all the customer-led requirements that
stretch from design development, warehousing, product ranges, factoring, product
delivery, collections as well as customer and marketing teams are 24x7 available to
cater to the customer with high-quality products and top prices with numerous
sourcing, delivery, and payment options.

Services
Pearl Global has a team of dedicated designers based in New York, Hong Kong,
India, and Indonesia. They persistently shop markets all over the world and visit all
the globally prominent fashion and textile fairs to gather design ideas. The design
teams are equipped to serve their partners from concept boards to customers. They
have been fruitful in creating brand-specific product designs to produce and
accelerate business opportunities for their partners. Pearl Global prides itself on
elevating business through the effective use of design services provided to the
customer.

Clientele
The company has six fully integrated manufacturing plants in Gurugram, Haryana,
capable of manufacturing value-added garments in woven & knitted fabrics. The total
factory area in North India engulfs more than 310,000 sq. ft. of space and provides a
systematic and spacious layout. The installed capacity on a single shift basis stands
at ten million pieces per annum. The factory is equipped with top-level garment
manufacturing & finishing equipment:
 Automatic Brother and Juki sewing machines for Woven and Pegasus for
Knits
 Laundry with the capacity to deliver great washes & treatments
 Value addition through fully computerized embroidery machines of Barudan
and Tajima
 Integrated systems with EDI facility to offer online access to some of its prime
customers.
The units specialize in casual wear dresses and ladies blouses woven and knit. The
company is serving the compound needs of some of the world’s biggest retailers.

16 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Some of the buyers Pearl Global Industries Ltd. supplies to are JC Penney, GAP,
Old Navy, Celio, Macy’s, Ann Taylors, Express, Esprit, S Oliver, Bershka, and Zara.
The units are wholly compliant with local laws concerning health, safety & labour
regulations and are approved by some top-grade retailers.



Figure 3. Buyers

17 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Products

Figure 4. Product Range

Country Factories Annual Capacity

WOVEN SOFT
SEPARATES
INDIA 4 8 Million Pcs.
INDONESIA 2 5 Million Pcs.
CHINA 1 2.5 Million Pcs.

CUT – N – SEW KNITS
INDIA 1 5 Million Pcs.
BANGLADESH 2 6 Million Pcs.
INDONESIA 1 3 Million Pcs.

SWEATER
BANGLADESH 1 3 Million Pcs.

BOTTOMS
INDIA 1 4 Million Pcs.
BANGLADESH 1 4 Million Pcs.
Figure 5. Product Profile


PRODUCT RANGE
Men's wear (shirts,
trousers, shorts)
Women's wear (blouses,
dresses, skirts)
Kids wear (all products)
Home furnishing
Accessories (belts, caps)

18 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Corporate Social Responsibility
Ethical Trading Initiatives
 Pearl Global ltd Fashions is deeply conscious of its responsibility towards
industry, the environment the society.
 Their social initiatives extend across education, charities, and ethical trading.

Little People’s Education Trust
 Pearl Academy of Fashion, a leading institute imparting education in the field
of fashion and design, collaborated Nottingham Trent University and LDT
Nagold to offer fashion and design programs.
 Pearl Retail School, a collaboration with The Friedman Consulting, specializes
in the train of personnel in the retail sector.
 Pearl Business School, set up in collaboration with Babson College, Boston,
imparts education in entrepreneurship and business management to
graduates and undergraduates.

Charitable Initiatives
 Mina Seth Clinic provides free medical treatment to needy children.
 Arpan, providing free tuition and other educational aids to underprivileged
children.
 Supporting various charities relating to women and children by regularly
donating garments and fabric.

19 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report

Figure 6. Organisation Hierarchy

Departments
The garments division consists of the following departments –
 Merchandising Department
 Sampling Department
 Fabric Sourcing & Purchasing Department
 Fabric Audit Department
 Fabric Testing Department/Laboratory
 Accessory Store Department
 Production Planning & Control Department
 CAD Department
MANAGAING
DIRECTOR
F&A
VP
GM
AGM
SR. MGR
MGR
ASST MGR
SR. EXEC
EXEC
JR. EXEC
ASSISTANT
MKTG
VP
AGM
DMM
MM
DR. MERCH
MERCH
JR. MERCH
SAMPLING
CO-
ORDINATOR
OPERATIONS
VP
QA HEAD
QA
QC
MAINT. HEAD
SR. EXEC
EXEC
JR. EXEC
ASSISTANT
FACTORY
HEAD
PRODUCTION
MANAGER
ASSISTANT
MANAGER
FLOOR
INCHARGE
LINE
SUPERVISOR
LINE
INCHARGE
FABRIC HEAD
SR. EXEC
EXEC
JR. EXEC
ASST.
PURCHASE
HEAD
SR. EXEC
EXEC
JR. EXEC
ASST.
HR
FACTORY HR
HEAD
SR. EXEC
EXEC
JR. EXEC
ASST.
CORP HR
HEAD
SR. EXEC
EXEC
JR. EXEC
ASST.

20 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
 Spreading & Cutting Department
 Sewing/Production Department
 Finishing & Packaging Department
 Maintenance Department
 Industrial Engineering Department
 Washing Department

21 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Merchandising Department
A merchandiser is an intersection between the buyer and the supplier. It has to
ensure good quality of production and timely delivery. Merchandising is a process
through which products are planned, developed, performed and presented to the
buyers. It involves directing and overseeing the development of the product line from
beginning to finish.

Role of the department
 To hunt for the appropriate market
 To get the samples made as per the buyer’s specification
 To estimate and quote the cost of the garment to the buyer and negotiate
 Getting orders
 Continuous interaction with the buyer for the approval
 To receive the fabric and trims in-house for bulk production
 Co-ordinating with the PPC department and production

Objective of merchandiser
 To create market
 Understanding buyers’ requirements
 Execution the order
 Taking buyers’ approvals
 Negotiation with buyer
Figure 7. Merchandising Room

22 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
 Sourcing of materials, fabrics
 Select the range
 Creating the product
 Coordination between production and production planning department
 Procuring the orders
 Materializing the order
 Dispatching the shipment
After shipment and dispatching, merchandiser is also accountable for buyer claims,
profit and subsequent orders. If a buyer has any issue with the quality of the product,
then it is the responsibility of the merchandiser to resolve the problem with the buyer.

23 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report

Figure 8. Merchandiser Relationship


Merchandiser
Fabric deptt.
Q.A. deptt.
Accessories
deptt.
Merchandising
deptt.
Industrial
engg. deptt.
Production
deptt.
Order analysis
deptt.
Spreading
deptt.
Cutting deptt.
Finishing
deptt.
Shipping
deptt.

24 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Figure 9. Merchandising Room
Functioning of the department
In Pearl Global,
merchandising is a union
of business and technical
particulars. Senior
merchandisers hold
responsibilities of
development of products
and coordinating with the
buyer, the garment styles
that meets buyer’s
expectations in regards to
delivery, quality, and price point. Junior merchandisers are in charge of
documentation and follow-up, as well as buyer detailing and international
communication. It is their responsibility to complete the appropriate paperwork, offer
breakdown information to all other departments, and get samples reviewed for fit,
colour, and quality once the order has been placed. Product development also
includes communications with international and local suppliers, approval of
manufacturing samples, and the development of fabric and yarns, all of which are
coordinated with other departments. Merchandisers must negotiate pricing with
purchasers, set out delivery timetables, and look for potential buyers. It can be
gathered that merchandising is the industry's most important section.

Costing
Before the customer sends in his PO, the merchant's most crucial task is to
accurately assess and negotiate the cost of manufacturing. An initial costing is done
during the pre-development stage to gain an idea of the garment cost that will be
incurred per piece. These expenses include things like general raw material costs,
production costs, washing charges, and markup costs, among other things. After the
production sample has been authorized and the grading has been completed, a final
pricing is completed utilizing fabric averages from the CAD, trim costs, and so on.

Basic activities required to be done:
 Receiving the order from buyer and other relevant samples and product data.
 Giving sample material requirements to sourcing teams.

25 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
 Follow-up of sample production and dispatch to buyers.
 Follow-up of sample approvals from buyers and notifying comments if any to
respective teams.
 Communicate to Buyer on the variation in specs, materials etc and follow-up
for approval prior to the bulk production.
 Conducting meetings required for the order preparation and order execution.
 Conduct Order clarity meeting and define the T & A (Time and Action
Calendar) across throughout processes.
 Release of material requirements to sourcing function.
 Organize to dispatch the samples to buyer and approvals on time.
 Ensure availability of product information and approvals to meet the PCDs.
 Handing over the folders and style information to PPC and IE for Calculations
and Tentative Planning
 Monitoring the production status and timely alert on deviations.

26 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report





Start Obtain tech pack from buyer
Sampling Costing
Analyse
cost of trims
and fabric
Analyse
fabric
consumption
from CAD
Obtain general
sewing data
from IED
Develop
sample as
per tech
pack
Prepare cost
sheet from sample
Develop
proto sample
Cost sheet & sample sent to buyer for approval
Confirmation
of order
Cost sheet
reworked
Approve
Book washing
& embroidery
capacity if
required
Obtain PCD &
details from
production
unit
Source trims
& fabric from
concerned
dept.
Obtain GSD
from IED
Execution of order by entering details in ERP
Prepare sample as per buyer requirements
Forward the sample to buyer for approval
Comments received from
buyer should be incorporated
and fit sample reworked
Hold preproduction meeting
with the production unit
Approve
Follow up with
production
depts. & update
buyer
Submit required
documents to
documentation
dept
Offer
garments
for final
inspection
Execute
bulk order
Follow up
on
payments
for goods
End
Yes No
No Yes
Figure 10. Functioning of Merchandising Dept.

27 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Detailed process activities
Order confirmation and follow-up:
 This department acts as a bond between the factory and the buyers. The
buyers depend on the merchandisers to provide them with the information
concerning style feasibility, capacity available, and the settling of delivery
dates for the shipment.
 This process involves collecting the initial order details from the buyer’s
representative and communicating through E-mail and telephonic
conversations.
 The merchandising team keeps the buyer updated with all the developments
being carried out regarding the order.
 The order confirmation and the order booking details are received by the
merchandising and further communicated to the other departments.

Preparation of bill of materials:
The merchandising team receives the details of all the style features in a specific
order, which includes –
− Fabric quality details
− Accessories such as laces, sequins, beads, etc.
− Thread Details
− Finish Details
− Prints and Embroidery
− Trims like buttons, zippers
− Brand labels
− Packing Material details
− Wash care labels
− Size labels
− Hangtags
 Apart from receiving this information from the buyer, the merchandisers also
receive the Fabric consumption per garment for each size from the sampling
section, Thread consumption per garment from the Planning Department, and
the accessories requirement per garment from the sampling department.
 Based on this information received, the merchandiser prepares a Bill of
Materials (BOM). This holds the complete details of the requirement of all the
parts progressing towards the making of the garment. Each of the material
written above is mentioned per garment.

28 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Coordinating the sample development process:
 The merchandising department plans and coordinates the activities of the
sampling department.
 The sampling section is given the tech-pack which contains all the relevant
details.
 The samples to be made are planned in the merchandising department and
the plan is given to the sampling section.
 The samples are sent to the merchandising department for initial approvals
according to the spec sheet provided by the buyer. The samples are
submitted to the buyer for approval only when they are approved by the
merchandising department.
 The sampling department is also informed by the merchandising about the
types of samples required by the buyer.
 The merchandiser receives the buyer comments for all the samples and
makes it sure it is informed to the sampling and the necessary changes made
in all the required areas.

Interpreting the tech-pack / technical folder provided by the buyer:
The Technical Folder/Tech pack is the reference for each department whenever it
comes to any information about the buyer requirements. The buyer states all his
requirements in a very precise manner which is contained in this document. The
following are the common details which are found in the Technical Folders of all the
buyers:
 Size wise quantity
 Color wise Quantity
 Destination wise quantity
 Dispatch dates for all the lots and the quantity for the lots
 Total Order quantity
 Cutting Details
 Construction Sheet
 Finishing and Packing Details
 Specification Sheet
 Measurement Chart
 Fabric Details
1. GSM of all the types of fabrics used in the garment
2. Fabric construction
3. Fibre types
4. Fabric width
5. Fabric/garment finish type and hand-feel description
6. Buyer nominated supplier (in certain cases)
7. Fabric Swatch
 Trims Details
1. Button Size
2. Threads used

29 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
3. Thread ticket no.
4. Labels details
5. Trims Swatches

Costing Sheet
The costing sheet is the sum of all the costs involved in the making of the garment,
which is later quoted to the buyers. It includes per piece and the total cost of all the
pieces. Some of the details it contains are – cost of fabric, trims, sampling, testing,
washing, embroidery, freight, duty, insurance, etc.
Basic costs while calculating costing are –
 Factory costs
 Trim costs
 Yield costs
 Cost of embroidery

 Factory cost: Factory cost includes making cost, cutting cost, and packing
cost. It mainly depends on the style. The more complicated the style, bigger is
the rate proportions.
 Trims cost: Trims can be local as well as imported. An imported trim can be
duty free or otherwise. It includes label cost, zipper cost, accessories cost,
button cost, washing cost, etc. Trims cost is taken including wastage. The
nominated supplier of trims for Pearl Global Ltd. is Avery Dennison.
 Yield cost: It is an estimate of average consumption of fabric. It is determined
by developing a mini marker which includes information regarding wastage of
fabric due to cutting, laying, fabric defect, marker loss and end cutting loss.
Average of 10% extra margin is taken.
 Cost of embroidery: Cost of embroidery comprises the machine depreciation
cost, and it is corresponding to the number of stitches used. The time taken
from the arrival of the order to the date of shipment is 2-3 months. It is
referred to as the total processing time of the sample since approval of the
sample. 45 days are held by the merchandiser for the production. Since,
fabric is the key reason for delay, the merchandiser keeps a few days to itself
for the safer side. The merchandiser also coordinates with the Fabric
department, Production Planning department, Quality department, Production
department, Washing department and, Finishing department. The
merchandiser also keeps a track of the styles and ensures that everything
moves as per order on time.

30 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Sampling Department
Sampling department is a very crucial department of the organization. The division is
in charge of creating the samples, which supports product development. The best
approach to place an order is by sampling. Even though it is a challenging and time-
consuming process, it will aid the exporter in receiving the buyer's order. The ability
of an exporter is determined by the samples. Only the samples will be used by the
purchasers to evaluate the exporter and his company. The samples must be unique
and of the highest possible quality because if they are of good quality and are priced
reasonably, the customers will be compelled to place an order. Sampling at Pearl
Global was self-sufficient due to its in-house stitching, washing, trimming, spotting,
ironing, and other construction-related checks and inspections.

Requirement of sampling: The purpose of sampling is not just getting bulk orders.
It also gives additional benefits to the exporters. By performing sampling, the
exporter can approximate the yarn consumption to develop the fabric, and acquire a
clear idea on costing difficulties to avoid all kinds of bottlenecks.

Types of samples
Development sample: It is based on tech-pack registered by the buyer or the
design developed in-house.

Proto sample: It is almost identical to development sample. It is the reflection of the
first tech-pack collected from the buyer. The sample is shared with the buyer for the
design approval. A different fabric can be utilized to make proto but the quality of
fabric should be same as per buyer instruction. This sample is made in the base
size, and styling is essential here. The comments, along with the second tech-pack,
are sent back citing changes in the sample.

Line Adoption (LA): If the buyer approves the proto sample, LA sample is sent to
buyer. It must contain the actual fabric, measurements and trims. Three samples are
sent to buyer.
o LA Design: This sample points out the total design of the garment or the
general look of the garment.
o LA Fit: It covers the fitting of the garment; buyer monitors the fit of garment
on a dress-form or a model.
o Detail Sample: It should include actual fabric & trims.
These are the three samples which are required to be sent to the buyer for approval.
In case of presence of a buying house, the same samples are also sent there.

31 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Fit sample: Different buyers have different fits, according to what samples are
desired in each fit.

Second Fit Sample: It is equivalent to the first fit sample created with a few changes
based on the comments received from the buyer. Here, a third or fourth fit sample
might be required to be made. After approval of fit sample, order is confirmed with all
the specifications.

Sealer Sample: When sealer samples are approved, production can start off and no
further changes to the tech pack can be made.

Wash Sample: This sample is created to test the effects of washes on the garment.
It allows the evaluation after wash appearance, shrinkage and shading problems. It
entirely depends on buyer requirement. Often, mock sample is to be made.

Salesman Samples: These are samples that are sent to retail outlets by buyers for
gathering feedback from customers about a specific design for the next season. It
helps in assessing customer likings and reactions.

Size Set Sample: Making size set sample completely depends on buyer. It
comprises samples in all sizes which are going to be mass produced between 1 to 3
pieces per size according to buyer requirements.

GPT Sample: Garment pack samples are those that are built for garment testing and
hold information on seam slippage, button pulling, and tearing strength, etc.

Photoshoot Samples: They are samples employed for advertising and live model
display reasons.

Preproduction Sample: It involves the duplication of the original garment with
actual fabrics, trims, fitting and production techniques. After approving the PP, the
buyer sends the sample along with a green tag.

Reference Sample: After approval of PP, in case the buyer wishes for a slight
change in the product or style such as change in stitch type or stitch per inch, the
vendor sends a revised sample as per buyer reference, which is called the reference
sample.

32 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
TOP Sample: Here, the buyer Q.A. picks one size out of the total set of sizes from
the first bulk production. It is deemed to be the perfect sample with respect to all
colors and all sizes.

The details attached to the garment sample
Following the confirmation of an order, each sample shared with the buyer has the
following details, attached to it with the help of a tag. It contains the details
concerning what the buyer has dictated, as well as what supplement, fabric, trim, etc.
they have used (if applicable).
 Ref no
 Color
 Quantity
 Description
 Fabric
 Composition
 Style no
 Size

33 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report

Figure 11. Process Flow of Sampling Dept.
Tech pack
received from
merchant
Develop patterns
Costing CAD
marker
Develop sample
Develop fit/proto
sample
If any comments
Revise fit/proto
sample
No comments
PP sample
If any comments
Revise PP sample
No comments
Size set sample
If any comments
Incorporate buyer
comments
No comments
Sealer sample
If any comments
Incorporate buyer
comments
No comments
Bulk production

34 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Sampling department
No. of shifts 1 (8 hours)
No. of workers 38
Area covered 125’ x 38’=4750 sqft
MIS Excel sheet
Machinery Flat Lock-12
Over Lock-7
Feed of Arm-5
SNLS-23
Riveting M/c-2
Round Knife0-2
Iron Table-3
Button Hole-1
Buttoning M/c-1
Storage 4 racks
Tables 4
Fans 18
Compliance Metal Free Zone
Average Process Lead Time Fit Sample-2 to 4 days
Revised Sampling-1 to 3 days
PP sample-3 to 5 Days
Size Set Sample- 10 to 12 Days

35 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
CAD Department
Pearl Global owns a CAD department for garments of varied styles. It uses the
Optitex software package for pattern making, marker planning, grading and
alterations.

Functions of CAD room: CAD department is responsible for the following functions:
 Dictating cutting average for costing
 Making as efficient cutting marker as follows
 Development and alteration of patterns
 Development of size set pattern through grading

Process flow



















Receive patterns
Pattern correction
Pattern grading
Cut ratio planning
Marker planning
according to the cut
plan ratio
Pattern sent to
merchandiser for
sampling
Output to
Graphtec plotter
Output mini
marker to printer
Output marker to
plotter
Send to cutting
room for cutting
Send to
merchandiser for
costing
Figure 12. Process Flow of CAD Dept.

36 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Figure 14. Digitizer Board
Figure 13. CAD Desktop
The method is normally part of an integrated system which includes digitizing or
scanning of full-size patterns in to the computers, facilities for pattern adaptation, and
by inputting appropriate grade rules, the means to generate all the sizes required.
The company incorporates Lectra CAD system and the software they utilise is
Optitex. Its main components are:
 Pattern Planner (Optitex)
 Digitizer
 Plotter

Pattern planner:
The planner states the
exact make-up of the
marker planner: the fabric
width, the pattern pieces to
be used, the sizes to be
covered, and all the
constraints to be applied
including the matching of
checks. The s ystem
automatically or
interactively produces a
marker plan. Automatic
marker planning involves requesting data defining the placement of pieces in
markers planned earlier, and selecting marker conformation which offers the highest
marker efficiency from a series. In Pearl Global, Interactive marker planning is more
common and it is the process by which the operator markers by interacting with the
system directly through Gerber. All the pieces are displayed in a smaller form at the
top of the screen. Two horizontal lines defining the width of the marker and a vertical
line at the left representing the beginning of the marker are located in the middle of
the screen. The right end is for moment open.

Digitizer:
It is a white digitized board
which reads signals. It
drafts the patterns sent by
the buyers which can be
accordingly graded on the
Gerber. It is used for
drafting patterns, notches,
darts, etc.

37 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Figure 15. Pattern Plotting Machine
Plotter:
After coming up with a
plan for the marker on the
computer, the marker
planner commands the
computer to plot the
marker automatically onto
paper. For knits, the CAD
department just plans the
marker and shares the
required efficiency with the
cutting department. The
pattern master first makes
a rough marker to obtain
the average ply length. After spreading all layers, he then drafts the original marker.
The marker mode is online. All the patterns are placed in one direction while keeping
the grain line constant.

Working Procedure:
 After receiving approval from pattern master, patterns are plotted using plotter
from CAD dept.
 A pattern is first cut from the marking paper and is attached to hard brown
paper, after which the final pattern is cut.
 Patterns are then kept inside an envelope and submitted to cutting master.
 On the envelop the following information must be put – Style no., Parts no.,
Date, Created by, Merchant Name.
 After grading is finished, the graded marker is sent to buyer for verification
from the buyer’s end, which is called Nested Print.
 After marker planning, the nested copy which contains all sizes is submitted to
pattern master, after whose approval the fabric consumption is given to
merchant.
 Marker placement the most challenging work in the CAD department, which is
made easier with help of Optitex.


Technique for marker placement
Check fabric Stripe fabric Solid fabric Dyed fabric Printed fabric
All panels of
garment must
be placed in one
direction; other
sizes may be
put on other
way but the
direction must
All parts must
be placed on
the plane of
stripe; Both
sleeve parts
kept be placed
on the same
stripe line.
All parts can
be placed
by any
direction; As
per grain
line.
All parts of a
specific
garment must
be put along
center
selvedge, to
avoid color
variation.
All panels of
garment
should be
placed in one
direction.

38 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
be same for all
parts.

CAD Department
No. of shifts 1 (8 Hours)
No. of workers 3 (pattern master) and 4 (asst)
Area covered 28’ x 16’=448 sqft
MIS Manually on register
Machinery Lectra Plotter-2
Lectra Digitizer -1
Computer System-4
Tables 2
Tube lights 18
Fans 4

39 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Figure 17. R&D Room
R&D Department
When file comes from Sampling Department, the CAD Department makes the
pattern which is sent to the Research and Development (R&D) Department. The
R&D department makes their own similar sample and checks if the pattern needs
any correction. For example, if the garment shrinks by 1 inch; the CAD room will
make changes in the production pattern on the recommendation of the R&D
Department.



















Analysis of new design sample is performed in the R&D department to make the
operations simpler for bulk production. Minor changes can be executed in the
pattern.

Types of samples prepared in the R&D department –
 Pilot run sample
 Size set
 T.O.P. sample

Order processing
procedure
Step 1: R & D department
receives the file from
merchandiser after sample
approval. This file contains
the tech pack, trims report,
white seal fit report
(dummy fit), patterns and
technological comments,
Pilot run / size set
Pilot run selected
Pre-production
meeting
Bulk
Receives file from merchandiser
with tech pack, CAD copy,
P.O.s , Fabric Reports,
P.P.Sample, Approved trims,
base pattern
Re-pilot with pattern
amendment
PASS
FAIL
Figure 16. Process Flow of R&D Dept.

40 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
i.e., comments from the buying house as well as the buyer.

Step 2: Buying house confirms with buyer the pattern for grading purpose. Buyer
approves the graded patterns and provides comments on the pattern in case any
alteration needs to be done.

Step 3: Size set is created in the jumping size and sent for approval. The buyer
might ask for resubmission of the size set and may also comment on the grading
measurements.

Step 4: Pilot run is performed on every size. Quality assurance of the factory checks
and inspects the pilot sample. If acceptable, the sample will be sent to the buyer,
else it will go for re-pilot and pattern amendment.

Types of files maintained in R&D department
 Internal shrinkage file
 Quality report file
1. Pre-production specification
2. Sample evaluation sheet
3. Size specification
4. Production specification
5. Size chart
6. Measurement check sheet
7. Inspection report
 Buyer’s files
1. Tech pack
2. CAD
3. P.O.’s
4. Trims
5. Fabric reports
6. Sampling
7. P.P. Meeting comment
8. Order summary sheet
9. Approved Embroidery header

Only after the R&D Department grants approval after finalizing the pattern by
analyzing various factors like measurements, shrinkage, etc., the production is
proceeds to cutting.

41 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Fabric Testing Department


Start
Fabric Sourcing Accessory Store Merchandising
End
Figure 18. Fabric Testing Department

42 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
 In-house lab receives samples from the suppliers for the purpose of testing.
 Each sample is given a lab number prior to testing.
 The tests performed are meant only for internal verification and not for
obtaining precise test results.
 The test methods are according to in-house procedures to allow the company
to monitor the quality of the fabrics before they are directed towards approval
laboratories for final quality evaluation.
 Testing in the lab is only performed for fabrics and not for accessories and
trims.

Tests carried out in the lab:
 Count
 Construction
 GSM
 Shrinkage- (Dimensional Stability)
 Colour Fastness
o To washing
o To crocking (wet and dry)
 Test standards followed for
o American buyers – AATCC
o Other countries – ISO

Fabric Testing Department
No. of shifts 1 (8 Hours)
No. of workers 2
Area covered 37‟ x 19‟=703 sqft
MIS Manually on register
Machinery GSM Cutter-2
Tensile Strength tester-2
Pilling Tester-1
Tearing Strength tester-1
Figure 19. Shrinkage Measurement Table

43 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Crock-o-meter-1
Washing Machine-1
Beasley‟s Balance-1
Colour Match Cabinet-1
Storage 1 cupboard
Tables 1
Tube lights 8
Fans 4

44 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Fabric Sourcing Department
Process flow


Sampling Bulk
Receiving order from merchants
Technical analysis
Rate quotation from suppliers
Supplier selection
PO review & P.O confirmation
PO release to supplier
Fabric receipt
Co-ordinate with fabric audit &
factory for quantity and quality
checking
Technical analysis, Vendor
evaluation/selection
Order placement
S/OF
Sampling yardage
/ lab tests
Submit to buyer Redo S/Off
Resubmission
Final approval of buyer
Start
Bulk
End
If not ok If ok
Figure 20. Process Flow of Fabric Sourcing Department

45 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Figure 21. Rack Details
Fabric audit and inspection department
The fabric store or department is situated on the
ground floor of the plant and just beneath the
cutting section. Loading of fabric rolls in the store
becomes easier since it is on the ground floor. Also,
the dispatch of the rolls is convenient as the cutting
floor is only one floor above. The fabric store acts
as a storage area for fabric materials that are
needed for implementing on-going orders for the
sampling procedure of any following order. Basic
functionalities of the fabric store is covered in the
further part of this chapter.

Process flow for bulk purchase

Research:
 Prepare fabric swatches as per buyer requirement specified in the form of
CAD design, fabric swatches, and boards.
 The design team of the organization also builds swatch cards for some buyers
according to the forecasted trends.

Product development:
 The CAD designs from the buyer contains specifications based on the color,
yarn count, weave pattern, GSM etc.,
 The PD team has a set of several standards for color such as Pantone Book
and CSI - Color Solution International Standard.
 Quotation to develop the fabric is received from various mills with the sample.
 The best fitted vendor is selected as per price, quality, lead time, quantity,
capacity, terms with SEPL by the sourcing team.
 On the vendor’s approval, the supplier is requested to develop fabric for
sampling.

Research
Product
Development
Sampling Bulk Purchase

46 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Figure 22. Fabric Inspection
Sampling:
 The fabric is tested for buyer requirements on receiving the sample yardage
with an average lead time of 10 days.
o Solid -Lab dips
o Yarn dyed -Desk loom
o Print -Strike off
o The test reports are shared with the merchant and later to buyer for
approval.
 On the merchant’s approval, they are sent to the BI team for approval.
 On approval of the BI team, the sourcing team is notified to release the PO
through mail.
 On rejection of the fabric along with comments received on the fabric from the
buyer or the merchant, the supplier is requested to rework on the fabric and
share it back for approval; this cycle continues until the merchant and buyer
approve on the fabric.
 Once approved, the sourcing team is instructed to release the cost for
sampling to the supplier.
 Sample yardage costs 150% of bulk fabric cost.

Bulk purchase
When an order is
confirmed, Fabric Sourcing
receives Order
Confirmation Meeting
details from Marketing via
email, which includes
fabric quality, count,
construction, fabric weight,
color, quantity, fabric
content, and any special
instructions, plan cut
date(PCD), item No., style
No., and garment delivery additional processes. Fabric Sourcing team receives PI
from supplier through e-mail and Fabric sourcing team reviews PI if it is in
accordance with the requirement, and the same will be forwarded to the marketing
team. If PI Is not according to the requirement, the data will be sent to the supplier
for rework. PI Merchant presents item-wise details to the fabric sourcing team and
updates FOB (First of Bulk) submission date and finalizes bulk flow.

FOB (First of Bulk) Submission
The supplier forwards First of bulk to the Sourcing team, which verifies the initial
color and quality, and if on meeting the requirement, it will be forwarded to

47 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Figure 23. Fabric Storage Rack
marketing. If it does not meet the requirement, the sourcing team requests the
supplier to resubmit the First of Bulk.
Supplier provides 100 meters of fabric in each color for a size set and data on other
preproduction activities to the merchant with a card which carries all the information
extending from Location to the Quantity received.
After bulk dyeing is completed, QC review is held in the supplier’s place wherever
possible wherein different parameters are considered to check the fabric. Once QC
is approved, the Supplier devises the packaging list for the final goods.
If QC review does not happen in the supplier’s place, the supplier sends the
inspection report to the fabric sourcing team. Once the packaging list is ready, QC
receives an invoice from the supplier for the goods that are ready to get dispatched.
Fabric sourcing team takes hold of the fabric delivery once the payment issues are
cleared.

Process flow for buyer nominated supplier

 Buyer directly hints the color standards to the mill with the information to
marketing team who in turn informs the Fabric Sourcing team through email.
 After the Fabric Sourcing receives information from the Suppliers through
phone or email, the Sourcing team informs the supplier to commence
development for the purpose of sampling.
 Supplier begins
fabric sample development
based on the requirement
and sourcing team asks for
the sample to return in
time.
 Fabric sourcing
team carries out fabric cost
negotiation with the
supplier (with projected
numbers) and acquired
sampling fabric
simultaneously.

Sampling Bulk Production

48 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Figure 24. Audit Table
Fabric Store and Fabric Audit
Fabric store is a section where the fabric obtained from the supplier or the processor
is stored. Before releasing the fabric to any further processes, inspection is
performed for the received lot of fabric to judge if the quality of the received fabric
complies to the approved standard or not. Only approved quality fabric is released to
the next process.

Bulk Fabric Inspection Shading:
 The fabric is
checked against
hanger swatches
received from the
merchandiser on
grounds of quantity,
color or design.
 Spectra light is a
visual color
evaluation. It offers
five light sources:
 Stimulated day light
(D65)
 Horizon (Early morning sunrise/afternoon sunset)
 Illuminant a (Incandescent home light)
 Cool white fluorescent (CWF)
 Ultraviolet (UV)
 Custom fluorescent (TL-84/u30)

Four Point System:
 10-15% out of bulk fabric is checked for the quality parameters.
 It is inspected on the inspection table with adequate light.
 Each visible defect is written down in the inspection report and is penalized
with a point value.

Bulk Fabric Testing
The fabric is tested against following parameters:
 Fabric construction
 Warp and weft shrinkage

49 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
 Fabric weight
 Dimensional stability
 Shade of the fabric
Internal test report is shared with the merchandiser, CAD and production units. The
fabric is checked against the test report from the nominated lab like MTL/SGS/ITL
and is submitted by the supplier. Supplier takes steps in case of any deviation.

50 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Accessories Store Department
The acceptance of the raw materials or the accessories is generally done in terms of
documents i.e., whatever it may be whether acceptance and revival whenever they
are done they are done according to the documents that have been received from
the merchants and also the department also makes the document for anything they
carry out within their roof.

The department first receives a PO copy from the
merchants, which the merchants would have sent it
to any one among the three above mentioned
supplier types. As soon as the accessory department
comes to know about the date on which they will
receive that particular material they will make a note
of it in their ERP that they will be receiving that
material and this is termed as PRE GRN.

Once the material reaches the stores on the
prescribed day and date the concerned person
verifies the materials against invoice/ Delivery
Challan and packing list which they would have
received from the merchant as already stated.

After it is confirmed that the received materials is according to the documents then
they carry out a quality inspection and this inspection is carried out irrespective to the
type of the buyer. The company carries this inspection as per AQL standard 1.5 for
all the types of goods received.


Figure 25. Accessories Storage
Rack

51 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Spreading & Cutting Department
Process flow


File received
from merchant
Approved PP
sample
Fabric / trim
flow chart
Style R&D size
set
CDR/CCR
Approval
Spreading
Layer checking
Cutting
Sorting
Bundling
Quality check
Issue to lines
OK
Figure 26. Process Flow of Spreading & Cutting Dept.

52 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Figure 28. Automatic Spreading Machine
Figure 27. Manual Spreading
Spreading
The spreading tools and equipment are:
 Spreading Tables
 Pins
 Shears
 Weight Bars
A thick brown sheet is kept under the bottom ply for better movement of the knife
prior to spreading the fabric on the table. The sheet is glued with a gum tape.
Measurement is recorded
using tape for marking the
line. The lay height
generally varies from 2 ½
to 3 inches and the
quantity of plies varies as
per the thickness mainly
from 75-100. Weight is put
onto the fabric on both the
edges to avoid distortion or
movement of the plies.

Different fabrics call for different methods of spreading. For spreading checks and
stripes fabrics, special care is taken. Checks and stripes fabrics are usually cut and
spread on fold for better line matching. During spreading of check fabrics, pinning is
carried out on the fabric at certain locations to block the plies from slipping and end
up in better check matching.

Marking: Marking is
brought about after the
fabric is spread. Pattern
maker devises the
patterns and it is put on
the top of the fabric for
reference. Using a
marking chalk, patterns
that are placed are
marked. For checks and
stripes, manual marker is
used. In case of solid dyed
fabric, computer aided
marker (plotter) is used as
marker.

53 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Figure 29. Straight Knife Cutter
Cutting
The aim of cutting is to separate fabric parts as replications of the pattern pieces in
the marker plan. In obtaining this objective, certain needs must be accomplished.
When marking is completed, the cutting master uses the markings and cuts as per
given specifications.

Straight Knife:
This is the most commonly used practice of cutting
garments in the industry. The key parts of this knife
comprise:
 A base plate
 A vertical blade with differing edge
characteristics
 An electric motor over it
 A handle for the cutter to direct the blade
Straight knife cutting machine is multifaceted and
sufficiently accurate for most purposes. This is
functional in cutting straight lines and gradual curves
of bigger components.

Band Knife:
A band knife consists of a sequence of three or more
pulley fueled by an electric motor with a continuingly
rotating steel blade fixed on them. One of the blade’s
edges is sharpened.
The principle of operation is different from straight or a round knife in that the band
knife passes through a slot in the cutting table in a fixed position and the section of
lay to be cut moved past it.
A band knife workplace may be so arranged that the operator either pushes or pulls
the section of lay towards the knife. It is used to cut tight curves.

Numbering: Numbering is executed for easy identification of cut panels or parts. It is
an action of allotting a serial number to each and every component (cut panel) of a
specific style in order to easily gather all the cut parts from a garment.

54 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Figure 30. Ply Numbering
Fusing: Fusing is the
process where fabric is
joined and the interlined
using pressure and
temperature as per the
buyers specification. The
key elements of fusing are:
 Temperature
 Pressure
 Time Period
Fusing is usually
performed in a specialized
fusing press. The heat must pass through the fabric to trigger the resin and this calls
for time measured in seconds, which differs based on the type of resin and the
nature of the fabric.

Sorting and bundling: Bundling is crucial in order to maintain minimum amount of
shading and sizing problems for the cut panels. The cut panels are bundled and then
directed towards the sewing floor as and when required. In Sorting and Bundling, all
the cut panels are categorized size wise and style wise. Sorting is also carried out
shade wise and shrinkage wise.
While bundling, panels are sorted and made into bundles of 25-30. Every bundle has
bundle tickets attached to it.
A bundle ticket holds details about:
 Style number
 Size of the garment (cut panel)
 Name of the cut panel
 Bundle number
 Lay number
 Cut number
 Quantity of the bundle
 Serial no. of the cut parts

Spreading & cutting department
No. of shifts 1 (8 hours)
No. of workers 84
Area covered 288‟ x 162‟=46656 sqft
MIS Manual, Excel sheet
Machinery Straight Knife- 12
Band Knife-2
End Cutter-5
Straight Linear Fusing Press- 4
Ticketing M/c- 16

55 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Spreading M/c-4
Storage Racks- 24
Temp. storage Tables- 48
Tables Spreading Tables- 12 (21mtr x 2 mtr)
Ticketing & Bundling Tables- 4 (18 mtr x 2.4
mtr)
Tube lights 264
Fans 31

56 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Figure 31. Sewing Department
Sewing Department
Sewing department is the most cardinal department of an apparel industry. It is the
section where the cut components of a garment, are styled and shaped into a new
form with proper stitches and seams as required. Sewing section in the unit is
composed of four floors
which house about 1500
machines and dispensed
into 60 lines. Each line id
appointed a supervisor
monitoring the production
and attempting to balance
the line himself.

The IE department
performs time study to
obtain the SAM of each
machine and manual
operation. This is done to obtain the standard allowed minutes needed to bring off
each operation and thus, the entire operation to make the garment.

Therefore, they prepare an approximated Operation Bulletin containing each
operation and its SAM value. This operation bulletin is released to the sewing
section.

Size set: Size set samples are garment samples produced for each size as
described by the buyer. These are then sent to the buyer and any comments from
the buyer are further took in till it is finalized by the buyer.

PP meeting: PP meeting is held and the approved sample from the buyer is
exhibited with measurements and pattern features. It also contains the buyer’s
comments, points to ensure or avoid while stitching to accomplish the correct
specification.

Mock specification chart: Mock specification chart is illustrating the critical sewing
operations on parts of the garment, with actual fabric and hanging it in the line for the
operator’s ease. In the event of any doubt, he can refer to that sample to pick out the
seam type, sleeve joining, lace attachments or any other critical style in the garment.
It is hung with the help of a hanger.

57 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
In line checking: In line checking is worked on critical areas, where all the seams,
stitches, are checked. Front and back are tied according to their component no. and
sent to the corresponding operators. In events of defects, a sticker carrying a red
arrow is pasted to indicate the defect.

End line checking: End line checking is executed at the end of the line when the
garment has been completely stitched. Each garment is checked for its
measurements, style, and stitch and on finding a defect, it is flagged with a red arrow
sticker and hung separately.

Quality reports to be maintained:
 End line report
 Inline report
 Quality & correction & preventive action
 QC Red Flag Report
 SPI Report & Stitch Mock
 QC Specification Audit Report
 QC Comments Report

Salary and incentives:
The operators get a defined salary on the 7th of every month, on the basis of their
skill grade- A+, A, B, C. Based on their extra production and good performance, they
receive incentives each day.

Sewing/production department
No. of shifts 1 (8 hours)
No. of workers 1024
No. of Q.C. 31
Area covered 206‟ x 158‟=32548 sqft
MIS Excel sheet
Machinery 736
Storage Racks – 24
Temp. storage tables – 48
Tables (6 x 9)=54 and 12
Tube lights (88 x 2)x9=1584

Working of a sewing room
Issue of the cut parts: The cut parts are forwarded to the sewing section and stored
in the warehouse. Then they are bundled and fed into the sewing line. Each bundle
of cut components is accompanied with a job card.

58 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report

Feeding to the line: The bundles are fed into the lines where every bundle carried
around 20 pieces.

Inline inspection: Following each critical operation, an inline inspection personnel is
assigned to keep a track of quality of the pieces produced. This checking is placed
prior to the final assembling of the garment since alterations are difficult and often
even impossible succeeding the completion of the garment. The checking is carried
out for seams, fabric, stitching quality, shades, etc. Pieces that are not up to the
mark are sent for alteration or rework, the rate being 10-12%. The same operator
must mend the fault in manufacturing, and is supposed to finish all the alterations
before they can end their shift for the day.

Final inspection: Final inspection comprises of thread cutting, check for faults, and
shade variation checks in manufacturing fabric faults etc. The rejected parts are
considered as seconds and are, evidently, not counted in the shipment lot. The rate
of rejection was 1-2%.

Supervisors: A line supervisor or in-charge has a critical role in the functioning of
their line. They constantly monitor the operators.

Progressive Bundle System: At Pearl Global, progressive bundle system (PBS) is
utilized for manufacturing.
This system is exactly what its name implies, a system whereby the garments are
gradually assembled as they move through successive sub-assembly and main
assembly operations in bundle form. The principles of this system are:
The various sections are positioned according to main operation sequence, with
each section having a layout according to the sequence of operations required to
produce a particular component. For example, the sleeve section could contain the
following sequence of operations:
1. Run stitch collar
2. Collar turn/iron
3. Collar top stitch

 A work store is positioned at the start and end of every section of these buffers is
used to store work received from a preceding operation, and to hold work
completed by that section.

59 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
 Due to these work stores or buffers, each section is not directly dependent on the
preceding section, but can absorb slight variations in output via the stocks held
within the section.
 The progressive bundle system, while being somewhat cumbersome in operation
and requiring large quantities of work in progress, is probably one of the most
stable systems as regards output. Unless there is serious absenteeism or
prolonged special machine breakdowns, most of the usual hold-ups can be
absorbed because of the amounts of work in progress.
 Balancing and the changeover to new styles are also somewhat simplified, due to
the amount of work held in reverse. When properly managed, the progressive
bundle system is versatile and efficient.

60 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Industrial Engineering
The departments of sourcing, cutting, stitching, finishing, embroidery, and industrial
engineering collaborate closely on projects. It is their responsibility to determine the
current state of the production scenario and then develop strategies to improve it.
The IE Department operates under the premise that productivity may be increased
by first looking at something, then seeing it, then observing it, then thinking about it,
making a decision about it, and lastly acting on it.

The department of industrial engineering handles a wide range of tasks. These
chores are broken down into daily, weekly, and monthly categories. Along with their
usual tasks, they also come up with fresh ideas and enhanced processes to boost
the output and effectiveness of other departments.

The IE department must create an operating bulletin whenever a new style is
introduced. The major goals of this operation bulletin are to decrease both the
amount of SAM and the amount of labor in the garment as a whole. The layout for
the new design is balanced and designed with the greatest amount of accuracy. The
best building technique to efficiently produce the desired end product is also
identified, and the appropriate operation sequence is identified. Additionally
described are the kind of equipment to be utilized and the work aids.

The operator's performance is checked everyday after the style has been installed
on the factory floor. If the operator's performance falls short of expectations, the
reasons why are found and corrective action is then implemented. The operator is
motivated to raise his output if he is operating at the required level of efficiency, if not
even more. The performance for the entire week is also calculated, and if there is
any variation from the planned outcome, the reasons are established and corrective
action is implemented. The methods of industrial engineering are also used to
motivate teams and people to perform better. By collaborating with production to
develop production capability, this objective is accomplished.

The department of industrial engineering places a lot of emphasis on gathering
information. The several methods for gathering information include daily production
reports, a time study of a specific style or line, close observation of a specific activity,
identifying the causes, etc. The department's entire study will be based entirely on
data. The entire study's findings would be completely useless if there were any
inaccurate data. Therefore, the techniques used to gather and analyze the data
should be precise.

61 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
The department concentrates on standardizing the methods used to carry out any
task, planning the production so that the goal set by the PPC department is
achieved, and training the operators generally so that their main goal becomes the
overall development of the company by increasing the production as well as being
self-motivated towards the achievement of their goals.

Reports formed by the I.E. Department
 Efficiency report
o Line efficiency: The production of each line is compared to the
predetermined target in this report. This report contrasts the efficiency of
various lines, floors, etc. Additionally, this report aids in the analysis of total
SAM produced, production volume, operator count, and overall effectiveness.
This report was created in accordance with: efficiency floor-wise daily, weekly,
and monthly.
 Attendance report: This report provides information on the number of operators
who reported to work from the beginning to the end of the month in order to
subtract the absenteeism rate. Both the new addition and the departing
individuals are included. Also displayed are the man days put in.
 Order completion report: This is prepared for fabric, cutting and stitching.
 Fabric completion report: Utilizing the order quantity, the cut quantity, and the
sent quantity, the fabric utilization for orders that will be shipped is determined.
After that, the amount of fabric that is left over is calculated by subtracting the
remaining percentage from the amount of rejected and unusable goods.
 Cutting completion report: The style number, order quantity, and quantity to be
cut are all included in the OCR. Additionally, the amount of fabric needed and the
amount of extra or short fabric are noted, and the cad average and cutting
average are both calculated.
 Production completion report: The OCR format for production displays the
quantity of pieces forwarded from 1 department to another and the status of the
rejected and other residual pieces.
 Fabric consumption: This report is generated from the fabric OCR.
 Leftover percentage: This report is generated from the fabric OCR.
 Training operators report: This report keeps constant check of all operator
trainees and their performance.
 Daily production report: The style number, order quantity, and quantity to be
cut are all included in the OCR. Additionally, the amount of fabric needed and the
amount of extra or short fabric are noted, and the cad average and cutting
average are both calculated.
 Costing report: IE prepares this report for accounts department that consists of
the direct cost involved with the production.
 Machine utilization: This report is produced for each floor in the plant. This
report illustrates the quantity of machines, machine utilization (%) of every line on
the floor. This report also depicts the total machine utilization on floor.

62 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
 Layout: The IE also takes care of the plant layout and floor layout. They arrange
the desired machinery and equipment of a plant, established or contemplated, in
the way which will permit the easiest flow of materials, at the lowest cost and with
the minimum of handling.
 Thread consumption: This report shows the amount of thread consumed in
fabric to determine the wastage and utilization
 Thread usage rate
M/C Rate
SNLS 2.60
DNLS 5.50
FLAT LOCK (D/N) 19.20
O/L 3T 17.00
O/L 4T 21.00
O/L 5T 24.50
COVER STITCH 3T 19.20
COVER STITCH 4T 25.30
COVER STITCH 5T 32.00
ZIG ZAG 5.10
BARTACK 28.00
BUTTON SEW 19.50
BUTTON HOLE 85.00
D/N CHAIN STITCH 11.20
BLIND STITCH 15.40
KANSAI 15.00
FOA 11.00

 Operation bulletin: This report is made for all the styles which run on the
production floor. It gives the target to the line. It also explains the efficiency, no of
work places and sewing machines, the total SAM of the style, the machine SAM,
the manual SAM, piece per machine. It also includes the operations and machine
required. The industrial engineering department keeps all the departments
updated about their plans to raid the manufacture of goods either to incorrect
specifications or by an improper method.

63 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Production Planning and Control
Department
In this industry, the Production Planning and Control Department is a crucial division.
To add to the business's revenues is the PPC division's main goal. Establishing work
routes and schedules that assure the best use of resources—materials, people, and
equipment—as well as providing the means to ensure that the plant operates in
accordance with these plants—are specific goals of PPC.

PPC is the administrative function that organizes, coordinates, and manages the
plant's material flow system in order to meet marketing-set goals as cheaply and
effectively as possible.

Planning is a crucial process. It makes decisions regarding future actions. The
planning process entails organizing, initiating, organizing, and thinking. The source
of action for accomplishing the intended goal is this plan. An essential action function
follows this plan. Consequently, the action is known as the planned action.

Control and Planning are intimately tied to one another. Both of them benefit from
one another. Operation is based on the goals established by planning, and
subsequent action planning is done based on input from operation. In order to
manufacture a product as efficiently as possible, the production control function
essentially entails coordinating and integrating the production facilities and elements.

The objectives of PPC
 It specifies an acceptable quantity of raw material and finished goods
inventories to ensure that the company can promptly meet market demands.
 It tries to maintain a constant flow of production-related activities.
 It makes an effort to maintain a balance among all activities through effective
departmental coordination.
 It seeks to use manufacturing facilities efficiently so that delivery deadlines
can be met and operational costs may be kept to a minimum. Continuously
expanding the plant's utilization is desirable.
 Alternative plans are constantly kept on hand to address any emergency or
catastrophe. This will stop any production cycle crises.
 The achievement of sales and profit goals will be ensured through effective
production planning.
 The company can function at the planned level of efficiency.

64 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
The PPC head meets daily with the heads of Production, Embroidery, Fabric Stores,
and Cutting Department. He receives emails from the merchandiser informing him of
the upcoming fashions and their corresponding ship dates. He accordingly makes
the preparations for the specific style.

The following issues are discussed in the daily meetings:
 Whether the input is received by the respective departments on the date
planned.
 Whether the quality of the input as well as the output is up to the required
standard
 Whether the shipments will be met. To find out the various reasons for delay
and decide upon the action to be taken against such mishaps.
 Whether the departments are working at the desired level of efficiency. If they
are not then finding out the causes for the inefficiency.
 Whether the required standards of output are met or not.
In case of the cutting department, it is also observed if there is any pending fabric
remaining for the delivery or any extra quantity is left. Generally, the amount to be
ordered is added with another 10%-5% for cutting loss and 5% on process loss. +
5% shipment is usually allowed in most of the cases.

The PCD is formed for the particular style. PCD is the Planned Cut Date. This tells
the Planned Date for cutting the required style and at the same time seeing to it that
the trims are also in the company. It contains the PO #, Buyer, Style #, color,
Quantity of pieces to be cut, delivery date, destination, PCD, the date for the file and
inline fabric/trims date and in the end the bulk fabric/Trims date. First, the file must
be received by the cutting department by the merchandiser accompanied with the
patterns to be cut. Afterwards, some quantity of the bulk fabric must be in the
company on the file handover date. Accordingly, the PCD is made and the dates
assigned for the cutting for the style is given. The 3 main criteria for PCD are to be
met are:
1. File should be handed before/on the date
2. The bulk fabric to be cut should be available in the company
3. The trims should also be available in the company
A line plan is also made. The capacity for every line is determined as per the SAM.
This aids in putting the target for the particular line for meeting the shipment date.
While setting up the line plan, the efficiency of each line is considered around 50%.
This is due to normal and abnormal absenteeism as well as the current efficiency of
normal working of the operators.

65 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
This line plan is prepared for each floor separately as well as for each line. It
comprises of the line number, date, the style number, the target to be set, the output
to be delivered and the target output of the entire day for the whole floor.
The line to be selected for the particular style is decided on various issues. These
are:
1. If it is repeat order for the line
2. Specific buying house wants that particular line to make their product
3. Specific buying house wants that particular floor to make their product
This line plan is reviewed each day and the changes are worked upon every week.
These changes may occur because of inefficiency of the line, style gets delayed due
to various causes like the fabrics and trims were not available on time etc. Whereas
in the case of PCD, no changes are made and the style has to be cut on that desired
date.

66 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Figure 32. Washing Department
Washing Department
The washing department plays a crucial role in the final feel and texture of the
garment, which has to exactly match the buyer's specifications once all operations
on it have been completed. Once the garment has been finished with all operations,
it is sent to the washing department for the washing or finishing that has to be done
for that particular style according to the buyer's specifications.

Initially, they separate the clothing based on shade, task, and unit. For example, if
the clothing is white and must be handled similarly, then such styles are grouped
together regardless of their styles.

Washing process
After dyeing is completed the fabrics or the garments are taken to the washing
process. There are different types of washing procedures.

When the whole process is done then it is followed by the hydro extraction wherein
which an assigned lot of garments are put into the hydro extracting machine
depending on the tumbler capacity and then the extra water which had collected in
the previous stages will be
extracted by compressing
the garment with the ideal
pressure that has to be
used for that specific style
or garment.

After that, the garments
are dried using the drier.
After getting dried they are
inspected by the
inspection personnel and
the inspection done here
is random it does not involve any organized method, any garment from the total lot is
randomly selected and inspected as per the criteria that will be specified to them by
the merchandiser.

67 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Quality Department
This department is responsible for the quality assurance at every stage of the
product. The stages are of raw material, Finished Materials, and Work In Progress.
The given are the multiple areas where the TQA department works:

Fabric inspection
The incoming fabrics are tested on the 4-point system. 10% of the fabric quantity is
sent to undergo inspection. The format used for maintaining inspection records is
mentioned in the latter.
 Preparation of shade card
 Centre to selvedge report
 Shrinkage report
 Width checking report
 Fusing shrinkage report

Cutting inspection
The cutting Inspection is performed according to the Tech Pack, Approvals, style
technical specification, and AQL level defect standards and.

For uncut parts inspection:
 Verify spec vs. patterns
 Cross check fabric reports and approvals
 Verify lay height and lay parameters
 Verify number of parts placed as per mini marker
 Inspect numbering
 Ensure fusing performance
 Verify various reports
 Checking for more shrunk layers in the lay.

For cut parts inspection:
 Verify all size patterns against the spec.
 Verify shrinkages have been added into the patterns.
 Cross verify pattern released are for all colours or there are colour wise
patterns.
 Make sure patterns are as per the matching/stripe placement requirement
esp. In case of y/dyed

68 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
 Placement of notches is as per the requirement of the style.

Fusing process:
For the fusing process, the following parameters are checked.
 Air pressure adjusted according to the fusing requirements.
 Temperature maintained and measured by the thermos-strip regularly.
 Quality of fusing material like bubbling area, color change, fabric staining,
fused area bond strength, after washing of fused quality and checking the
weight performance.

Batch inspection
 Check the garments at the INLINE and END LINE Inspection points.
 Verify In line and End line inspection reports.
 Verify and instruct the in line and end line measurement report.
 Arrange passed pieces for batch audit.
 Compare tech pack with sample received and highlight discrepancy between
tech pack and sample.
 Constructional details.
 Color-wise trims and their placement.
 Spec sheet against pattern, sample
 Art work approvals, placements, grading.
 PP/Sealer/Size set/Pilot comments for the style or any comments by buyer.
 Constructional specification of the particular operation being done before the
in-line inspection.
 SPI, stretch ability of particular operation, needle damages.
 Material swatch/trim swatch/ color wise main label, wash care label swatches
and placement in garment.
 Diagrammatic representation of critical parts like placket /pockets with
measurements.

Final audit
Final Audit is done internally (by quality auditor) as well as externally (by buyer's
QC). They use statistical Quality Control as their tool as check few pieces so as to
get the idea of the lot.

AQL: Generally, the AQL followed in the finishing department is 2.5. This may vary
from buyer to buyer.

69 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
There is a separate inspection room in the finishing department. This is maintained
for the QA of the buyers who come randomly to check the quality of the garments of
their respective buyers. When the buyer comes, he randomly selects cartons
(depending upon the AQL). From the cartons he selects pieces. He checks the
garment according to the specifications. He may pass the lot or find some defects. If
the garments are below standard, he may reject the lot.

70 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Finishing and Packaging Department
Process flow























Garments received from production
Kaj button if required
Washing
Thread cutting
Initial checking 100%
Pressing
Final checking 100%
Repressing
Measurement checking
Re-final checking 100%
Tagging and folding
Quality
Batch
Audit
AQL
Packing received /
colour wise
Needle detection
Sewing alter
rework
Embellishment
rework
Spotting
PASS
Figure 33. Process Flow of Finishing Dept.

71 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Figure 35. Iron Press


Finishing Section is the last and important department since it is here that the
garments get its real beauty. This is the last check done on the garment to ensure
that the garments meet all the quality standards specified by the buyer.

If the garment is washable then the first process is loading the garments coming
from washing section. Here the garments requiring buttons are marked for the same.
The workers are provided with a graded scale to mark the button at the correct place
and distance for all the sizes. The garment is then sent to the Kaj Button
Department.

Figure 34. Initial Checking

72 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report






Figure 36. Spotting

73 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Kaj Button Department
This department is responsible for sewing of buttons into the garments. This
department also checks for the required button pressure desired by the buyer; which
is most of time is 8 kg. First the button strength is checked and only if it is passed
through the test, that button is attached to the garment.

Process Flow

Figure 37. Process Flow of Kaj Button Dept.

Kaj marking area:
Here the marking for button stitches is done. Here also the workers are provided with
proper graded scale with distances marked at which they should mark for buttonhole.
The garment is then sent to the KB Section.

Kaja:
Button Section is involved in button stitching and button hole making in the garment.
The finishing section of TS-IV had two lines each having seven machines. One extra
button was also stitched on the side label.

Pieces come from
production
Pieces are counted
in another room
Marking on kaj Kaj process
Button marking
Button fixed Trims and cutting
Washing
Checking

74 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
After button and kaja marking, the garments are loaded into the button holing section
and the approved sample is checked for the following:
 Button hole, button placement, eyelet placement etc.
 Thread runs
 No of buttons
 Two / Four-hole buttons
 Line of the button
Production targets are given to individual operators and pieces are checked
randomly every hour. In case of defective pieces, they are returned to the batch for
alteration and are kept a track of.

After button hole and button attach, the feeding helper loads the pieces into the
trimming section. The no. of pieces loaded is entered into the loading register. Each
person at the KB-Section is provided with a quality specification chart which contains
all the details about the buyer, style, operation, type of thread and needle to be used
and a mock sample is also pasted on it.

Trimming section: Here the workers are involved in trimming the unwanted threads
left out after sewing of the garment or otherwise; both from right side and wrong side
of the garment. Then the garment is passed to the next section

Middle Checking: Middle checking Middle checking is the next process after
trimming. This section is there to see if there are any left out untrimmed threads, any
spot on the fabric, any defect on the fabric and report accordingly to the quality in-
charge.

Thread sucking machine: As the name suggests, this machine is used to suck the
extra loose threads stuck to the garments. The garments after passing through this
machine are sent to the ironing section.

Alteration area: There were four SNLS machines and one overlock machine. If
there are few defected samples (15-20 pcs), that can be rectified here. If they are
more in number (100 or so), then they are sent back to the sewing line for
rectification.

75 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Sewing Line Time Study
Garment description
Name: Everyday Essential Shirt
Style No.: WS21W020
Brand: KOHL’S
Division: Women’s
Product type: Tops



Figure 38. Techpack

76 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report

Figure 39. Operation Bulletin

77 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report

Figure 40. Machine Layout

78 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Time study terminology
The following terms are important to know before conducting a time study –

Operation Name:
This field contains the name of the operation being performed on the workstation, in
accordance with machine layout.

Machine:
Type of machine being used for the operation, for example, fusing m/c. If a sewing
machine is being used, its type is mentioned. For workstations not containing any
machine, the column is filled with iron table or helper.

Cycle Lap:
This column must be filled with raw observations observed for cycle time for the
operation. To record an observation, timer must begin the instant the operator picks
a piece and stop the instant he puts the piece back in the basket after performing
one operation. Observations must be recorded in seconds in continuous cycles.

Average Second:
It is the mean result of all the cycle laps for the operation.
For example, if Cycle Lap 1 = 44 secs, Cycle Lap 2 = 42 secs, and Cycle Lap 3 = 45
secs,
����??????�� ������=
44+42+45
3

=43 ����

Basic Pitch Time (BPT):
Basic Pitch Time is calculated as
�??????�=
Total Basic minutes of a garment
Total Number operations

Here, BPT refers to total minutes for one operation. Hence, it is gathered by
converting Average Second into minutes.
For example, if Average Second = 43 secs,

79 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
BPT = 43 / 60 = 0.71 mins

Allowances:
It is the percentage of tolerance of Basic Pitch Time for the operation. Generally,
allowance remains the same for all operations. It works as a control limit to ease
target. Here, an allowance of 10% for the sewing line.

Cycle Time:
The cycle time is the maximum available time for the production of the operation at
that workstation. Adding allowance to BPT gives final cycle time for the operation.
For example, BPT = 0.71 mins, and Allowance = 10%
Cycle time = 0.71 + (10% of BPT) = 0.78 mins

Actual Manpower:
Often, a time-taking operation may be assigned to multiple operators. Actual
Manpower is used to make note of the number of operators performing the operation
and filled with its reciprocal.
For example, if only one operator is assigned, the column must contain 1.
For two operators, the column must contain ½ = 0.5.

Target:
This field shows the hourly output for the operation. To estimate the amount of
pieces being produced from the operation in an hour, its Cycle Time must be divided
into 60 minutes.
For example, if Cycle Time = 0.78 mins,
Target = 60 / 0.78 = 77 pieces.

Total Target:
It displays the output for an entire shift. In this case, a shift consists of 8 hours,
hence the hourly target must be multiplied by 8 hours.
For example, if Target = 77,
Total Target = 77 x 8 = 616 pieces.

80 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Average Target:
The operation with the lowest Total Target becomes a determining factor for overall
line output. The entire column of Average Target displays the minimum of the Total
Target for all operations.

Line Balanced:
The formula to calculate the percentage of Line Balanced is,
�??????�� �??????�??????����=
�??????�??????��� �??????����
60
���??????� �??????�
���??????� ����??????� �??????������

Where,
Minimum Target is the minimum value of Target out of all operations
Total BPT is the sum of all the operation’s BPT,
And, Total Actual Manpower is the sum of all the values in the column Actual
Manpower.

Time Study
 We have conducted time study of sewing LINE 4 and LINE 21 using cycle
time method.
 3 cycle times for each operation have been recorded.
 Data has been recorded first manually using time study sheet, and later fed
on excel.
 The activity results in obtaining cycle time and total target for each operation
in the end.
 Percentage line balanced has been calculated.

Line 4
The time study table prepared by us for LINE 4 is given below.

81 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
S. NO OPERATION NAME M/C
CYCLE LAP
AVG
SEC
BPT ALLOWANCE
CYCLE
TIME
ACT
MP
TGT
TOTAL
TGT
AVG
TGT
1 2 3
1
FINAL COLLAR
CREASE + CUFF +
BACK + YOKE
CREASE
HELPE
R
38 39 39 39 0.64 10% 0.71 1.00 85 677 163
2
BACK BOX PLEAT
MAKE
SNLS 62 76 73 70 1.17 10% 1.29 1.00 47 372 163
3
PLACKET PIPING
TRIM
SNLS 104 103 106 104 1.74 10% 1.91 1.00 31 251 163
4
COLLAR RUN
STITCH WITH
THREAD
SNLS 128 131 110 123 2.05 10% 2.26 1.00 27 213 163
5
COLLAR MARGIN
TRIM + MARK
SNEC 69 84 70 74 1.24 10% 1.36 1.00 44 352 163
6
MARK FOR
COLLAR BAND ATT
HELPE
R
99 77 79 85 1.42 10% 1.56 1.00 39 308 163
7
COLLAR ATT WITH
COLLAR BAND
SNEC 72 60 57 63 1.05 10% 1.16 1.00 52 416 163
8
TOP STITCH & E/S
COLLAR
SNLS 55 56 52 54 0.91 10% 1.00 1.00 60 482 163
9
MARK & CUT FOR
SLEEVE SLIT
PLACKET
HELPE
R
65 73 77 72 1.19 10% 1.31 1.00 46 365 163
10
FINISH SLEEVE
SLIT PLACKET
SNLS 98 94 108 100 1.67 10% 1.83 1.00 33 262 163
11 E/S SLEEVE SLIT SNLS 52 60 62 58 0.97 10% 1.06 1.00 56 451 163
12
FINISH SLEEVE
SLIT PLACKET
SNLS 77 78 78 78 1.29 10% 1.42 1.00 42 337 163
13
FOLD BUTTON
PLACKET
SNLS 58 61 73 64 1.07 10% 1.17 1.00 51 409 163
14
MAKE KAAJ
PLACKET
SNLS 47 53 49 50 0.83 10% 0.91 1.00 66 527 163
15 SERGE POCKET
6TH
O/L
62 65 57 61 1.02 10% 1.12 1.00 53 427 163
16
HEM POCKET
CREASE + BAND +
BACK PLEATE
HELPE
R
71 77 71 73 1.22 10% 1.34 1.00 45 359 163
17 BACK YOKE ATT SNLS 81 108 80 90 1.49 10% 1.64 1.00 36 292 163
18
MARK FOR
POCKET ATT
HELPE
R
79 66 77 74 1.23 10% 1.36 1.00 44 354 163
19
POCKET MOUTH
HEM
SNLS 58 48 64 57 0.94 10% 1.04 1.00 58 462 163
20 SHOULDER ATT SNLS 89 88 88 88 1.47 10% 1.62 1.00 37 296 163
21 POCKET ATT SNLS 97 115 106 106 1.77 10% 1.94 1.00 31 247 163
22 COLLAR ATT SNLS 144 125 127 132 2.20 10% 2.42 1.00 25 198 163
23 CUFF HEM SNLS 28 23 35 29 0.48 10% 0.53 1.00 114 913 163
24 SLEEVE ATT
6TH
O/L
82 68 83 78 1.29 10% 1.42 1.00 42 337 163
25
TOP STITCH @
BACK YOKE +
SHOULDER
DNLS 127 129 136 131 2.18 10% 2.40 1.00 25 200 163
26
TOP STITCH @
ARMHOLE
DNLS 85 76 70 77 1.28 10% 1.41 1.00 43 340 163
27
COLLAR FINISH
WITH MAIN LABEL
SNLS 71 68 78 72 1.21 10% 1.33 1.00 45 362 163
28 TACK ARMPIT SNLS 84 100 103 96 1.59 10% 1.75 1.00 34 274 163
29 SIDE O/L
6TH
O/L
90 79 80 83 1.38 10% 1.52 1.00 39 315 163
30
PIN STITCH @ SIDE
+ WCL MAKE &
TACK
SNLS 72 76 67 72 1.19 10% 1.31 1.00 46 365 163
31
MAKE SIDE SLIT &
MARK
SNLS 80 69 76 75 1.25 10% 1.38 1.00 44 349 163
32 BOTTOM HEM SNLS 159 166 158 161 2.68 10% 2.95 1.00 20 163 163

82 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Table 1. Time Study of Line 4

Line balanced,
�??????�� �??????�??????����=
�??????�??????��� �??????����
60
���??????� �??????�
���??????� ����??????� �??????������

�??????�� �??????�??????����=
20
60
49.98
×36

�??????�� �??????�??????����=0.46=��%

Line 21
Time study for LINE 21 is given below.
S.
NO
OPERATION NAME M/C
CYCLE TIME
AVG
SEC
BPT ALLOWANCE
CYCLE
TIME
ACT
MP
TGT
TOT
AL
TGT
AVG
TGT
1 2 3
1 LOADING

45 36 40 40 0.67 10% 0.73 1.00 90 90 31
2 BACK BOX TAKI
SNL
S
58 71 62 64 1.07 10% 1.17 1.00 56 56 31
3 YOKE ATTACH
SNL
S
62 55 54 57 0.95 10% 1.05 1.00 63 63 31
3 COLLAR STITCH
SNL
S
54 51 66 57 0.95 10% 1.05 1.00 63 63 31
4
COLLAR TRIM &
TURN
O/L
,4,5
45 40 38 41 0.68 10% 0.75 1.00 88 88 31
5
COLLAR MAKING
(TOP STITCH)
SNL
S
12
7
11
4
11
0
117 1.95 10% 2.15 1.00 31 31 31
6 CUFF TURN (TABLE)
HEL
PER
15 16 20 17 0.28 10% 0.31 1.00 212 212 31
7 CUFF TRIM
SNL
S
19 16 25 20 0.33 10% 0.37 0.50 90 139 31
8 CUFF TOP STITCH
SNL
S
27 21 31 26 0.43 10% 0.48 1.00 138 138 31
9 PLACKET STITCH
SNL
S
92 80 87 86 1.43 10% 1.58 1.00 42 42 31
10
SLEEVE PLACKET
(MARK,MEASURE &
TRIM )
HEL
PER
67 53 56 59 0.98 10% 1.08 1.00 61 61 31
11
SLEEVE PLACKET
ATTACH (KACHA)
SNL
S
58 52 67 59 0.98 10% 1.08 1.00 61 61 31
33 CUFF SIDE CLOSE SNEC 61 48 36 48 0.81 10% 0.89 1.00 68 542 163
34 CUFF FINISH SNLS 113 117 111 114 1.89 10% 2.08 1.00 29 230 163
35 E/S CUFF SNLS 96 107 103 102 1.70 10% 1.87 1.00 32 257 163
36
TOP STITCH @
CUFF
SNLS 90 89 82 87 1.45 10% 1.60 1.00 38 301 163


48.98 10% 53.88 36 20.33 163 163


AVERAGE TARGET 44

83 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
12
SLEEVE PLACKET
STITCH
SNL
S
66 58 66 63 1.05 10% 1.16 1.00 57 57 31
13
POCKET FRONT
PANEL MARKING
HEL
PER
35 30 28 31 0.52 10% 0.57 1.00 116 116 31
14
POCKET OVERLOCK
TRIMMING
O/L
,4,5
42 45 49 45 0.75 10% 0.83 1.00 80 80 31
15 POCKET SEAM FOLD
HEL
PER
42 35 49 42 0.70 10% 0.77 1.00 86 86 31
16 POCKET FINISH
SNL
S
42 35 37 38 0.63 10% 0.70 1.00 95 95 31
17 SHOLDER ATTACH
SNL
S
10
0
90
10
9
100 1.67 10% 1.83 1.00 36 36 31
18 BACK YOKE STITCH
DNL
S
10
7
92
10
3
101 1.68 10% 1.85 0.50 18 37 31
19 MID LINE CHECKING

38 41 29 36 0.60 10% 0.66 1.00 100 100 31
20
ARMHOLE
OVERLOCK
O/L 6 44 47 53 48 0.80 10% 0.88 1.00 75 75 31
21 DNLS ARMHOLE
DNL
S
81 69 88 79 1.32 10% 1.45 1.00 46 46 31
22 SIDE TAKI
SNL
S
36 37 43 39 0.65 10% 0.72 1.00 92 92 31
23
SIDE SEAM
OVERLOCK
O/L 5 90 88 79 86 1.43 10% 1.58 1.00 42 42 31
24 CHOK FOLD
SNL
S
60 58 48 55 0.92 10% 1.01 1.00 65 65 31
25
LEBELS(WASHCARE,
SIZE,LINE)
SNL
S
10
5
95 87 96 1.60 10% 1.76 0.50 19

31
26 COLLAR MARKING O/L 5 25 20 21 22 0.37 10% 0.40 1.00 164 164 31
27 COLLAR ATTACHING
SNL
S
87 99
10
3
96 1.60 10% 1.76 0.50 19
45
31
28
COLLAR FINISHING
(LOGO)
SNL
S
69 75 59 68 1.13 10% 1.25 0.50 26 31
29
CUFF MARKING
POSITION

44 42 56 47 0.78 10% 0.86 1.00 77 77 31
30 CUFF EDGE STITCH
SNL
S
41 37 32 37 0.62 10% 0.68 0.50 49

31
31 BOTTOM FOLD
SNL
S
10
3
97
10
9
103 1.72 10% 1.89 1.00 35 35 31
32 CUFF TOP STITCH
SNL
S
92 99 84 92 1.53 10% 1.69 1.00 39 39 31
33 THREAD CUTTING
HEL
PER
55 49 44 49 0.82 10% 0.90 1.00 73 73 31
34 FINAL CHECKING
HEL
PER
67 87 75 76 1.27 10% 1.39 1.00 47 47 31

34.87 10% 38.35 32

31 31

AVERAGE TARGET 55
Table 2. Time Study of Line 21

�??????�� �??????�??????����=
�??????�??????��� �??????����
60
���??????� �??????�
���??????� ����??????� �??????������

�??????�� �??????�??????����=
31
60
34.87
×32

�??????�� �??????�??????����=0.56=��%

84 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Project 1
Modified product layout using longer time
operations heuristic

Objective
 To replace the original machine layout of sewing line with a new machine
layout.
 The new machine layout will be more even in terms of rate and have a
reduced operator idle time.

Problem
 Large deviation between the rates of various operations is detected.
 Time difference between the workstation taking the longest time to perform on
one piece and the workstation taking the shortest time on one piece is
particularly high.
 Due to a few operations taking far lesser time, lots of minutes spent by some
operators remain idle.
 The available space for the sewing line can accommodate a maximum of 49
workstations.

Relevant terminology
Line balancing: In a production line, workstations are positioned in a succession of
tasks to be carried out along a straight or curved line. Line balancing is an analysis
process that attempts to equally divide work to be executed in a production process
among workstations.

Heuristic method of line balancing: The heuristic method involves drawing a
precedence diagram in a specific way which demonstrates the flexibility available for
transferring tasks laterally from one column to another to reach the most promising
balance.
The heuristic approach requires the following procedural steps –
 Identity the work.
 Break down the work into elemental tasks or steps. For example drilling a hole
is a step or elemental task.

85 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
 List the various steps as under (An example).
 Sketch the precedence diagram and mark the task duration.

Longer time operations heuristic: It is a heuristic which adds tasks to a
workstation one at a time in the order of task precedence.
 Each time a decision must be made between two or more tasks, the one with
the longest task time is added.
 This method has the consequence of assigning as quickly as possible the
tasks that are the most difficult to fit into one station.
 Tasks taking lesser times are then saved for fine-tuning the solution.

Precedence diagram: It is a visual representation tool to schedule tasks in a logical
and chronological sequence in a product layout. This is a technique of constructing a
network diagram that makes use of boxes, also called nodes, for representing
activities and connects them with arrows that depict dependencies.

Operation breakdown
Old ground floor’s LINE 6 is a newly set up sewing line manufacturing KOHL’s
‘Women’s Everyday Essential Shirt’, which comes under the category of casual
shirts. The developed Operation Bulletin put up at the end of the line contains the
following details:

The columns in the table are –
 SL # (Serial number)
 Operation description
 Self trimming
 Machine
 SAM (Standard allowed minutes)
 Rate
 No. of operations
 No. of workers
 Production per hour
 8 hours plan

Here, Rate refers to the efficiency percentage of SAM. The efficiency of the line is
evaluated to be 66%.

86 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
There are a total of 52 operations divided into five sections –
 Collar section
 Back section
 Front & pocket section
 Cuff & sleeve section
 Assembly

Table 3 displays the original Operation Bulletin put up by the Industrial Engineering
department for LINE 6.

SL
#
OPERATION
DESCRIPTION
SELF
TRIMMING
MACHINE SAM RATE
NO.
OF
OPR.
NO.
OF
W/S
PRODN.
PER
HR.
8 HR.
PLAN
COLLAR SECTION
1 COLLAR RUN MARK HELPER 0.35 0.53 0.27 1 103 824
2 R/S @ COLLAR TRIMMING SNLS 0.7 1.05 0.55 1 51 408
3 COLLAR TRIM & TURN TRIMMING SNEC 0.55 0.83 0.43 1 65 520
4 T/S @ COLLAR TRIMMING DNLS 0.6 0.9 0.47 1 60 480
5
CREASE @ COLLAR
BAND WITH MARK
IRON TBL 0.35 0.53 0.27 0.5 51 408
6
BAND ATTACH @
COLLAR WITH PICK
TRIMMING SNEC 0.73 1.1 0.57 1 49 392
7 FINAL COLLAR PRESS IRON TBL 0.55 0.83 0.43 1 65 520
8
MARK @ COLLAR FOR
ATTACHING
HELPER 0.5 0.75 0,39 1.5 108 864
4.33 6.52 8 69 552

BACK SECTION
1 MAKE @ BACK PLEAT TRIMMING SNLS 0.33 0.5 0.26 1 109 872
2 PRESS @ BACK PLEAT IRON TBL 0.27 0.4 0.21 1 135 1080
3
MAKE @ PLEAT x BY
PATTERN TRACKER
TRIMMING SNLS 0.3 0.45 0.23 1 120 960
4
YOKE ATTACH @ BACK
BODY
TRIMMING SNLS 0.7 1.05 0.55 2 103 824
5 T/S @ BACK YOKE TRIMMING DNLS 0.67 1 0.52 2 108 864
2.27 3.4 7 115 920

FRONT & POCKET SECTION
1
BUTTON PLACKET
FOLD
TRIMMING SNLS 0.6 0.9 0.47 1.5 90 720
2 KAJ PLACKET IRON IRON TBL 0.5 0.75 0.39 2 144 1152
3 KAJ PLACKET FINISH TRIMMING SNLS 0.8 1.2 0.62 2 90 720
4
KAJ PLACKET TOP
STITCH
SNLS 0.7 1.05 0.55 2 103 824
5 HEM POCKET MOUTH TRIMMING SNLS 0.25 0.38 0.19 0.7 101 808
6
CREASE @ POCKET
WITH TRIM EXTRA
IRON TBL 0.5 0.75 0.39 1.5 108 864

87 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
MARGIN
7
MARK FOR POCKET
ATTACH
HELPER 0.35 0.53 0.27 1 103 824
8 POCKET ATTACH TRIMMING DNLS 0.67 1 0.52 1.7 92 736
4.37 6.56 12.4 104 832

CUFF & SLEEVE SECTION
1 CREASE @ CUFF IRON TBL 0.4 0.6 0.31 1 90 720
2 CUFF HEM SEW SNLS 0.65 0.98 0.51 1 55 440
3 CUFF RUN MARK HELPER 0.5 0.75 0.39 1 72 576
4 R/S @ CUFF TRIMMING SNLS 0.7 1.05 0.55 1.8 93 744
5 CUFF TRIM & TURN SNLS 0.68 1.02 0.53 1.8 95 760
6
MARK & CUT SLEEVE
SLIT OPENING
HELPER 0.25 0.38 0.19 0.65 94 752
7
JOINT SLEEVE SLIT
PLACKET
TRIMMING SNLS 0.25 0.38 0.19 0.65 94 752
8
CREASE @ SLEEVE
SLIT PLACKET

FUSING
M/C
0.4 0.6 0.31 1 90 720
9
PLACKET ATTACH @
SLEEVE SLIT X4
SNLS 1.8 2.7 1.4 2 40 320
10 PLACKET TOP STITCH SNLS 1.6 2.4 1.25 2 45 360
11
TUCKNG & MAKE
DIAMOND X2
TRIMMING SNLS 0.95 1.43 0.74 2.5 95 760
8.18 12.29 15.4 78 624

ASSEMBLY
1 SHOULDER ATTACH TRIMMING SNLS 0.67 1 0.52 1.75 95 760
2 T/S @ SHOULDER TRIMMING DNLS 0.6 0.9 0.47 1.5 90 720
3 SLV ATTACH MARK HELPER 0.4 0.6 0.31 1.5 135 1080
4
SLEEVE ATTACH BY
O/L
TRIMMING 5TH O/L 0.9 1.35 0.7 2 80 640
S T/S @ ARMHOLE TRIMMING DNLS 1 1.5 0.78 2.5 90 720
6
TUCKING @ ARMPIT &
SIDE SLIT
TRIMMING SNLS 0.9 1.35 0.7 1 40 320
7
O/L @ SIDE SEAM WITH
SLIT
TRIMMING 5TH O/L 1 1.5 0.78 2.3 83 664
8
MARK & MAKE @
SLEEVE PLEAT X2
TRIMMING SNLS 0.33 0.5 0.26 1 108 864
9
CUFF ATTACH (ONE
SHOT) WITH T/S
TRIMMING SNLS 1.25 1 0.97 2.7 78 624
10 E/S @ CUFF TRIMMING DNLS 0.9 1.35 0.7 2.2 88 704
11 SIDE SLIT FOLD TRIMMING SNLS 0.8 1.2 0.62 2 90 720
12
NECK STAY STITCH &
COLLAR MARK
SNLS 0.5 0.75 0.39 2 144 1152
13 COLLAR ATTACH TRIMMING SNLS 1 1.5 0.78 1.5 54 432
14
FINISH @ COLLAR
WITH E/S
TRIMMING SNLS 1.2 1.8 0.94 3 90 720
15 BTM HEM SNLS 1.17 4.75 0.91 3 93 744
16
MARK AND ATTACH
MAIN LABLE
TRIMMING SNLS 0.33 0.5 0.26 1 108 864
17
MARK AND ATTACH
WASHICARE LABLE
TRIMMING SNLS 0.33 0.5 0.26 1 109 872

88 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
13.28 22.05 31.95 93 744
32.43 50.82 74.75
Table 3. Operation Bulletin

Calculations
We have to accommodate 49 workstations (WS).
According to OB sheet,
���??????� �??????��=50.82
??????�����??????�??????���=49
1 �ℎ??????��=8 ℎ����=8×60=480 �??????��
Hence, total target for 1 shift,
���??????� �??????����=
�ℎ??????�� ���??????�??????��×??????�
�??????��


���??????� �??????����=
480 ×49
50.82

??????��??????� ????????????�????????????�=��?????? �????????????????????????�
Cycle time or takt time,
�??????��� �??????��=
�ℎ??????�� ���??????�??????��
���??????� �??????����

�??????��� �??????��=
480
468

??????????????????�?????? ????????????�??????=�?????? �????????????�
Hence, we must try to accommodate every workstation into a 62 second stretch.

To make the assignment of operations easier for workstations and to simplify the
making of the precedence diagram, we have assigned every individual operation
with an operation code. The following table depicts the originally issued layout where
every operation is accompanied by its operation code along with its estimated rate.

WORKSTATION OPERATION
CODE
OPERATION DESCRIPTION MACHINE RATE IN
SECONDS
1 CL01 COLLAR RUN MARK HELPER 31.8
2 CL02 R/S @ COLLAR SNLS 63

89 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
3 CL03 COLLAR TRIM & TURN SNEC 49.8
4 CL04 T/S @ COLLAR DNLS 54
5 CL05 CREASE @ COLLAR BAND WITH
MARK
IRON TBL 31.8
6 CL06 BAND ATTACH @ COLLAR WITH
PICK
SNEC 66
7 CL07 FINAL COLLAR PRESS IRON TBL 49.8
8 CL08 MARK @ COLLAR FOR
ATTACHING
HELPER 45
9 BS01 MAKE @ BACK PLEAT SNLS 30
10 BS02 PRESS @ BACK PLEAT IRON TBL 24
11 BS03 MAKE @ PLEAT x BY PATTERN
TRACKER
SNLS 27
12 BS04 YOKE ATTACH @ BACK BODY SNLS 63
13 BS05 T/S @ BACK YOKE DNLS 60
14 FP01 BUTTON PLACKET FOLD SNLS 54
15 FP02 KAJ PLACKET IRON IRON TBL 45
16 FP03 KAJ PLACKET FINISH SNLS 72
17 FP04 KAJ PLACKET TOP STITCH SNLS 63
18 FP05 HEM POCKET MOUTH SNLS 22.8
19 FP06 CREASE @ POCKET WITH TRIM
EXTRA MARGIN
IRON TBL 45
20 FP07 MARK FOR POCKET ATTACH HELPER 31.8
21 FP08 POCKET ATTACH DNLS 60
22 CS01 CREASE @ CUFF IRON TBL 36
23 CS02 CUFF HEM SEW SNLS 58.8
24 CS03 CUFF RUN MARK HELPER 45
25 CS04 R/S @ CUFF SNLS 63
26 CS05 CUFF TRIM & TURN SNLS 61.2
27 CS06 MARK & CUT SLEEVE SLIT
OPENING
HELPER 22.8
29 CS08 CREASE @ SLEEVE SLIT
PLACKET
FUSING
M/C
36
30 CS09 PLACKET ATTACH @ SLEEVE
SLIT X4
SNLS 162
31 CS10 PLACKET TOP STITCH SNLS 144
32 CS11 TUCKNG & MAKE DIAMOND X2 SNLS 85.8
33 AS01 SHOULDER ATTACH SNLS 60
34 AS02 T/S @ SHOULDER DNLS 54
35 AS03 SLV ATTACH MARK HELPER 36
36 AS04 SLEEVE ATTACH BY O/L 5TH O/L 81
37 AS05 T/S @ ARMHOLE DNLS 90
38 AS06 TUCKING @ ARMPIT & SIDE SLIT SNLS 81
39 AS07 O/L @ SIDE SEAM WITH SLIT 5TH O/L 90
40 AS08 MARK & MAKE @ SLEEVE PLEAT
X2
SNLS 30
41 AS09 CUFF ATTACH (ONE SHOT)
WITH T/S
SNLS 60

90 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
42 AS10 E/S @ CUFF DNLS 81
43 AS11 SIDE SLIT FOLD SNLS 72
44 AS12 NECK STAY STITCH & COLLAR
MARK
SNLS 45
45 AS13 COLLAR ATTACH SNLS 90
46 AS14 FINISH @ COLLAR WITH E/S SNLS 108
47 AS15 BTM HEM SNLS 105
48 AS16 MARK AND ATTACH MAIN LABLE SNLS 30
49 AS17 MARK AND ATTACH WASHICARE
LABLE
SNLS 30
Table 4. Original Product Layout

With the help of the previous table, we can come up with a line graph of rate per
each operation.


Figure 41. Rate per Operation graph for original layout


We can observe that ‘PLACKET ATTACH @ SLEEVE SLIT X4 ’ (occupying 30
th

workstation) is a very long operation of 162 seconds, compared to far shorter
operations like ‘HEM POCKET MOUTH ’ (occupying 18
th
workstation) and ‘MARK &
CUT SLEEVE SLIT OPENING ’ (occupying 27
th
workstation). Hence, operators sitting
in workstations of lesser rates are spending considerable idle time.

0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
180
Rate per Operation

91 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
For creating the precedence diagram, we must first develop a tabular precedence
chart showing immediate predecessor for every operation. An operation’s immediate
predecessor is an operation without whose completion that particular operation
cannot head towards being carried out. Operations not having any immediate
predecessor start out individually and do not wait for another sewing operation to be
carried out first.

Operation Code Operation Description Rate in Seconds Immediate Predecessors
CL01 COLLAR RUN MARK 31.8
CL02 R/S @ COLLAR 63 CL01
CL03 COLLAR TRIM & TURN 49.8 CL02
CL04 T/S @ COLLAR 54 CL03
CL05 CREASE @ COLLAR BAND WITH
MARK
31.8
CL06 BAND ATTACH @ COLLAR WITH
PICK
66 CL05, CL04
CL07 FINAL COLLAR PRESS 49.8 CL06
CL08 MARK @ COLLAR FOR
ATTACHING
45 CL07
BS01 MAKE @ BACK PLEAT 30
BS02 PRESS @ BACK PLEAT 24 BS01
BS03 MAKE @ PLEAT x BY PATTERN
TRACKER
27 BS02
BS04 YOKE ATTACH @ BACK BODY 63 BS03
BS05 T/S @ BACK YOKE 60 BS04
FP01 BUTTON PLACKET FOLD 54
FP02 KAJ PLACKET IRON 45 FP01
FP03 KAJ PLACKET FINISH 72 FP02
FP04 KAJ PLACKET TOP STITCH 63 FP03
FP05 HEM POCKET MOUTH 22.8
FP06 CREASE @ POCKET WITH TRIM
EXTRA MARGIN
45
FP07 MARK FOR POCKET ATTACH 31.8 FP06, FP05
FP08 POCKET ATTACH 60 FP07
CS01 CREASE @ CUFF 36
CS02 CUFF HEM SEW 58.8 CS01
CS03 CUFF RUN MARK 45 CS02
CS04 R/S @ CUFF 63 CS03
CS05 CUFF TRIM & TURN 61.2 CS04
CS06 MARK & CUT SLEEVE SLIT
OPENING
22.8
CS07 JOINT SLEEVE SLIT PLACKET 22.8 CS06
CS08 CREASE @ SLEEVE SLIT
PLACKET
36 CS07
CS09 PLACKET ATTACH @ SLEEVE
SLIT X4
162 CS08
CS10 PLACKET TOP STITCH 144 CS09

92 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
CS11 TUCKNG & MAKE DIAMOND X2 85.8 CS10
AS01 SHOULDER ATTACH 60 CS11
AS02 T/S @ SHOULDER 54 AS01
AS03 SLV ATTACH MARK 36 AS02
AS04 SLEEVE ATTACH BY O/L 81 AS03
AS05 T/S @ ARMHOLE 90 AS04
AS06 TUCKING @ ARMPIT & SIDE SLIT 81 AS05
AS07 O/L @ SIDE SEAM WITH SLIT 90 AS06
AS08 MARK & MAKE @ SLEEVE PLEAT
X2
30 AS07
AS09 CUFF ATTACH (ONE SHOT) WITH
T/S
60 AS08, CS05
AS10 E/S @ CUFF 81 AS09
AS11 SIDE SLIT FOLD 72 AS10
AS12 NECK STAY STITCH & COLLAR
MARK
45 CL08
AS13 COLLAR ATTACH 90 AS12
AS14 FINISH @ COLLAR WITH E/S 108 AS13
AS15 BTM HEM 285 AS14
AS16 MARK AND ATTACH MAIN LABLE 30 AS15
AS17 MARK AND ATTACH WASHICARE
LABLE
30 AS16
Table 5. Precedence Chart

A precedence diagram can be easily made with the help of the previous table. The
visual representation of the precedence chart depicting operations being
interconnected with their immediate predecessors is a lot comprehensible and eases
the process of constructing the final layout. The tail of an arrow is attached to the
immediate predecessor of the operation that arrow points towards.

93 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report


CL01
CL02
CL05
CL03
CL08
CL04
CL06
CL07
BS01
BS02
BS04
BS05
BS03
FP01
FP02
FP03
FP04
FP05
FP06
FP07
FP08
CS01
CS02
CS03
CS04
CS05
CS06
CS07
CS08 CS09
CS10
CS11
AS01
AS02
AS03
AS04
AS05
AS06
AS07
AS08
AS09
AS10
AS11
AS12
AS13
AS14
AS15
AS16
AS17
Figure 42. Precedence Diagram

94 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
The purpose of applying longer time operations heuristic is to attempt fitting each
workstation into the estimated cycle time to get rid of as much idle time as possible.
While creating the new product layout, we must try to find if two consecutive short
operations can be merged into one workstation if the sum of their rates ends up
nearing the cycle time. We must also try to assign long operations to two
workstations if half their rates are close to the cycle time, else the overall target
would fall. We must also ensure that two operations requiring different machines
must not be merged, as one workstation would only contain one class of machines.

Operation CL05 takes 31.8 seconds, and operation CS01 takes 36 seconds. After
assigning them to a single operator, the final rate of that workstation (iron table)
becomes 67.8 seconds, which is close to the cycle time, that is 62 seconds.
Similarly, we can merge BS03 and BS04 into the 13
th
workstation. The last two
operations, AS16 and AS17, together take 60 seconds and are thereby assigned to
one workstation.

The rate of operation AS14 is 108 seconds, hence, two operators doing that task
would reduce it to 54 seconds. CS09, utilizing 162 seconds, is heavily time-taking,
thus, two workstations can be employed for that operation. We can do the same for
operation CS10 which individually consumes 144 seconds.

Below table shows the new product layout constructed by us.

WORKSTATION OPERATION
CODE
OPERATION DESCRIPTION MACHINE RATE IN
SECONDS
1 CL05, CS01 CREASE @ COLLAR BAND WITH
MARK + CUFF
IRON TBL 67.8
2 CL01 COLLAR RUN MARK HELPER 31.8
3 CL02 R/S @ COLLAR SNLS 63
4 CL03 COLLAR TRIM & TURN SNEC 49.8
5 CL04 T/S @ COLLAR DNLS 54
6 CL07, BS02 FINAL COLLAR PRESS + PRESS
@ BACK PLEAT
IRON TBL 73.8
7 CL08 MARK @ COLLAR FOR
ATTACHING
HELPER 45
8 AS12 NECK STAY STITCH & COLLAR
MARK
SNLS 45
9 AS13 COLLAR ATTACH SNLS 90
10 AS14 FINISH @ COLLAR WITH E/S SNLS 54
11 AS14 FINISH @ COLLAR WITH E/S SNLS 54
12 BS01 MAKE @ BACK PLEAT SNLS 30
13 BS03, BS04 MAKE @ PLEAT + BACK YOKE
ATTATCH
SNLS 90
14 BS05 T/S @ BACK YOKE DNLS 60
15 FP01 BUTTON PLACKET FOLD SNLS 54

95 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
16 FP02 KAJ PLACKET IRON IRON TBL 45
17 FP03 KAJ PLACKET FINISH SNLS 72
18 FP04 KAJ PLACKET TOP STITCH SNLS 63
19 FP05 HEM POCKET MOUTH SNLS 22.8
20 FP06 CREASE @ POCKET WITH TRIM
EXTRA MARGIN
IRON TBL 45
21 FP07 MARK FOR POCKET ATTACH HELPER 31.8
22 FP08 POCKET ATTACH DNLS 60
23 CS02 CUFF HEM SEW SNLS 58.8
24 CS03 CUFF RUN MARK HELPER 45
25 CS04 R/S @ CUFF SNLS 63
26 CS05 CUFF TRIM & TURN SNLS 61.2
27 CS06 MARK & CUT SLEEVE SLIT
OPENING
HELPER 22.8
28 CS07 JOINT SLEEVE SLIT PLACKET SNLS 22.8
29 CS08 CREASE @ SLEEVE SLIT
PLACKET
FUSING
M/C
36
30 CS09 PLACKET ATTACH @ SLEEVE
SLIT X4
SNLS 81
31 CS09 PLACKET ATTACH @ SLEEVE
SLIT X4
SNLS 81
32 CS10 PLACKET TOP STITCH SNLS 72
33 CS10 PLACKET TOP STITCH SNLS 72
34 CS11 TUCKNG & MAKE DIAMOND X2 SNLS 85.8
35 AS01 SHOULDER ATTACH SNLS 60
36 AS02 T/S @ SHOULDER DNLS 54
37 AS03 SLV ATTACH MARK HELPER 36
38 AS04 SLEEVE ATTACH BY O/L 5TH O/L 81
39 AS05 T/S @ ARMHOLE DNLS 90
40 AS06 TUCKING @ ARMPIT & SIDE SLIT SNLS 81
41 AS07 O/L @ SIDE SEAM WITH SLIT 5TH O/L 90
42 AS08 MARK & MAKE @ SLEEVE PLEAT
X2
SNLS 30
43 AS09 CUFF ATTACH (ONE SHOT) WITH
T/S
SNLS 60
44 AS10 E/S @ CUFF DNLS 81
45 AS11 SIDE SLIT FOLD SNLS 72
46 AS15 BTM HEM SNLS 52.5
47 AS15 BTM HEM SNLS 52.5
48 AS16, AS17 MARK & ATTACH MAIN +
WASHICARE LABLE
SNLS 60
Table 6. New Product Layout

Like earlier, we can plot a rate per operation diagram for the new layout too.

96 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report

Figure 43. Rate per Operation graph for New Layout

The above graph appears more even than the similar graph for old layout. The rates
in the old layout varied to large extents. On the other hand, the time difference
between the workstation taking the longest time to perform on one piece and the
workstation taking the shortest time for one piece in the new layout is lesser than the
same in the old layout.

To provide a clearer picture, a line graph combining the rates of the original product
layout and the new one for all the operations is given below. In the new layout, the
rates are reduced to half for operations extending two workstations, and the merged
rates of two operations integrated into one is displayed individually for each of the
two operations.


0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Rate per Operation

97 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report

Figure 44. Original Layout Rate v/s New Layout Rate

It is now evident that that the new machine layout is more levelled than the originally
issued one, ultimately eliminating a significant amount of operator idle time.

Results
 With the help of precedence diagram, we were able to formulate a new
machine layout.
 Two short successive operations were merged into one workstation wherever
possible.
 Operations that were time-taking were distributed into more than 1
workstations.

Conclusion
Since the Rate per Operation graph of the new layout appears more stable and even
as compared to that of the original layout, we were successful in reducing idle time in
the sewing LINE 4, thereby balancing the line.

0
50
100
150
200
250
300
350
400
Original Layout Rate v/s New Layout Rate

98 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Project 2
Automated sewing room performance
evaluation device

Needle running Time
 Needle Running Time is used in the apparel
industry to express total time or percentage of
total work time of a machine runs in sewing
garment.
 It is considered as one of the Key
Performance Indicators (KPI) for Garment
Industry.


Existing methods to calculate needle running time
At present, there are broadly two methods that industries use to calculate needle
running time of sewing machines. They are –

 Work Sampling Method: It is not feasible to observe and record needle time
for every operation throughout the day. By work sampling method, one can
find an occurrence of different activities in terms of percentage. From this
percentage data, one can calculate how much time is spent on running
machine. The biggest demerit of this method is that it is a statistical data
analysis and not actual needle time.
 Cycle Time Analysis: While we perform time study for an operation, we
capture time for different elements of the operation cycle. If we calculate
machine running time (stitching time) out of these elements, we obtain needle
time per operation (for stitching operation of one piece). Total needle
downtime in a day is the product of number of pieces made and stitching time
per piece.

Problems with already existing methods:
 The existing methods require a human to be present on-site to record data.
 When personnel is observing the operator’s activity, it often affects that
operator’s performance, which results in inconsistent data.
Figure 45. Sewing Machine
Needle

99 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
 For cycle time analysis, a single operation has to be observed at least 10
times to get the accurate data.
 Recording data all the time is not possible.

Our model
 The model we have developed is an IoT-based device that collects and
reports the needle time of a sewing machine unit in real-time. Hence, it
requires no human intervention.
 This technique relies on an ultrasonic sensor to sense and quantify pedal
movement used to calculate machine speed and running time.
 The collected data is transferred in real-time onto Cloud (Google Sheet)
making use of Wi-Fi technology for further analysis.

Main components of the device:
The device has three key components –
 Ultrasonic sensor
 NodeMCU microcontroller
 Google cloud



Working of the model:
The IoT-associated model fundamentally works through the following steps –
 Ultrasonic Sensor collects the data for pedal movement.
Figure 47. NodeMCU
Microcontroller
Figure 48. Ultrasonic Sensor
Figure 46.
Google Cloud

100 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
 Data collected is processed by Microcontroller (NodeMCU).
 Microcontroller connects to Wi-Fi.
 Microcontroller upload collected data onto the cloud.

Source code:
To make our model work, we need two separate source codes, one, to activate
NodeMCU microcontroller in the device, and two, to connect the sensor with google
sheets to enable automatic real-time data updation.

Source code to activate NodeMCU microcontroller:

//---------------------------------------- Include the NodeMCU
ESP8266 Library
//---------------------------------------- see here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jMr94B8iN0 to add NodeMCU
ESP12E ESP8266 library and board (ESP8266 Core SDK)
#include <ESP8266WiFi.h>
#include <WiFiClientSecure.h>
//----------------------------------------
//---------------------------------------- Include the DHT
Library
#include "DHT.h"
//-------------------------------------- --

#define DHTTYPE DHT11 // --> Defines the type of DHT sensor
used (DHT11, DHT21, and DHT22), in this project the sensor
used is DHT11.

const int DHTPin = 5; // --> The pin used for the DHT11 sensor
is Pin D1 = GPIO5
DHT dht(DHTPin, DHTTYPE); // --> Initialize DHT sensor, DHT
dht(Pin_used, Type_of_DHT_Sensor);

101 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
#define ON_Board_LED 2 // --> Defining an On Board LED, used
for indicators when the process of connecting to a wifi router

//---------------------------------------- SSID and Password of
your WiFi router.
const char* ssid = ""; // --> Your wifi name or SSID.
const char* password = ""; // --> Your wifi password.
//----------------------------------------

//---------------------------------------- Host & httpsPort
const char* host = "script.google.com";
const int httpsPort = 443;
//----------------------------------------

WiFiClientSecure client; // --> Create a WiFiClientSecure
object.

String GAS_ID = ""; // --> spreadsheet script ID

//============================================================
================== void setup
void setup() {
// put your setup code here, to run once:
Serial.begin(115200);
delay(500);

dht.begin(); //--> Start reading DHT11 sensors
delay(500);

WiFi.begin(ssid, password); // --> Connect to your WiFi
router
Serial.println("");

102 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report

pinMode(ON_Board_LED,OUTPUT); // --> On Board LED port
Direction output
digitalWrite(ON_Board_LED, HIGH); // --> Turn off Led On
Board

//---------------------------------------- Wait for
connection
Serial.print("Connecting");
while (WiFi.status() != WL_CONNECTED) {
Serial.print(".");
//---------------------------------------- Make the On
Board Flashing LED on the process of connecting to the wifi
router.
digitalWrite(ON_Board_LED, LOW);
delay(250);
digitalWrite(ON_Board_LED, HIGH);
delay(250);
//----------------------------------------
}
//----------------------------------------
digitalWrite(ON_Board_LED, HIGH); // --> Turn off the On
Board LED when it is connected to the wifi router.
//---------------------------------------- If successfully
connected to the wifi router, the IP Address that will be
visited is displayed in the serial monitor
Serial.println("");
Serial.print("Successfully connected to : ");
Serial.println(ssid);
Serial.print("IP address: ");
Serial.println(WiFi.localIP());
Serial.println();
//----------------------------------------

103 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
client.setInsecure();
}
//============================================================
==================
//============================================================
================== void loop
void loop() {
// Reading temperature or humidity takes about 250
milliseconds!
// Sensor readings may also be up to 2 seconds 'old' (its a
very slow sensor)
int h = dht.readHumidity();
// Read temperature as Celsius (the default)
float t = dht.readTemperature();

// Check if any reads failed and exit early (to try again).
if (isnan(h) || isnan(t)) {
Serial.println("Failed to read from DHT sensor !");
delay(500);
return;
}
String Temp = "Temperature : " + String(t) + " °C";
String Humi = "Humidity : " + String(h) + " %";
Serial.println(Temp);
Serial.println(Humi);

sendData(t, h); //--> Calls the sendData Subroutine
}
//============================================================
==================
//============================================================
================== void sendData
// Subroutine for sending data to Google Sheets

104 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
void sendData(float tem, int hum) {
Serial.println("==========");
Serial.print("connecting to ");
Serial.println(host);

//---------------------------------------- Connect to Google
host
if (!client.connect(host, httpsPort)) {
Serial.println("connection failed");
return;
}
//----------------------------------------

//---------------------------------------- Processing data
and sending data
String string_temperature = String(tem );
// String string_temperature = String(tem, DEC);
String string_humidity = String(hum, DEC);
String url = "/macros/s/" + GAS_ID + "/exec?temperature=" +
string_temperature + "&humidity=" + string_humidity;
Serial.print("requesting URL: ");
Serial.println(url);

client.print(String("GET ") + url + " HTTP/1.1 \r\n" +
"Host: " + host + "\r\n" +
"User-Agent: BuildFailureDetectorESP8266 \r\n" +
"Connection: close\r\n\r\n");

Serial.println("request sent");
//----------------------------------------

105 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
//---------------------------------------- Checking whether
the data was sent successfully or not
while (client.connected()) {
String line = client.readStringUntil(' \n');
if (line == "\r") {
Serial.println("headers received");
break;
}
}
String line = client.readStringUntil(' \n');
if (line.startsWith("{ \"state\":\"success\"")) {
Serial.println("esp8266/Arduino CI successfull!");
} else {
Serial.println("esp8266/Arduino CI has failed");
}
Serial.print("reply was : ");
Serial.println(line);
Serial.println("closing connection");
Serial.println("==========");
Serial.println();
//----------------------------------------
}
//=================== =========================================
==================

Source code to link google sheets to sensor:

function doGet(e) {
Logger.log( JSON.stringify(e) );
var result = 'Ok';
if (e.parameter == 'undefined') {

106 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
result = 'No Parameters';
}
else {
var sheet_id = '1K6rdtJeOUKUhv1v3pqfRwS5PJAHj1Ma_34nUPo7N -
7Q'; // Spreadsheet ID
var sheet =
SpreadsheetApp.openById(sheet_id).getActiveSheet();
var newRow = sheet.getLastRow() + 1;

var rowData = [];
var Curr_Date = new Date();
rowData[0] = Curr_Date; // Date in column A
var Curr_Time = Utilities.formatDate(Curr_Date,
"GMT+5:30", 'HH:mm:ss');
rowData[1] = Curr_Time; // Time in column B
for (var param in e.param eter) {
Logger.log('In for loop, param=' + param);
var value = stripQuotes(e.parameter[param]);
Logger.log(param + ':' + e.parameter[param]);
switch (param) {
case 'temperature':
rowData[2] = value; // Temperature in column C
result = 'Temperature Written on column C';
break;
case 'humidity':
rowData[3] = value; // Humidity in column D
result += ' ,Humidity Written on column D';
break;
default:
result = "unsupported parameter";
}
}

107 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Logger.log(JSON.stringify(rowData));
var newRange = sheet.getRange(newRow, 1, 1,
rowData.length);
newRange.setValues([rowData]);
}
return ContentService.createTextOutput(result);
}
function stripQuotes( value ) {
return value.replace(/^["']|['"]$/g, "");
}
Figure 49. Google Sheets Screen

108 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report


Advantages of this device:
The device poses the following benefits –
 It requires zero human intervention for data collection and for the machine to
remain functioning.
 The data for running time is collected automatically and saved in real-time on
to the cloud.
 We can employ the machine to collect the data all the time.
 The model offers far more consistent data than traditional methods to
calculate needle running time.
 The device is substantially cost effective, as the entire device costs less than
INR 400.

Possible Interpretations of the device:
Following points can be interpreted from our device –
 &#3627408455;&#3627408476;&#3627408481;??????&#3627408473; &#3627408475;&#3627408466;&#3627408466;&#3627408465;&#3627408473;&#3627408466; &#3627408479;&#3627408482;&#3627408475;&#3627408475;??????&#3627408468; &#3627408481;??????&#3627408474;&#3627408466; ??????&#3627408475; ?????? &#3627408465;????????????=&#3627408449;&#3627408476;.&#3627408476;&#3627408467; &#3627408477;??????&#3627408466;&#3627408464;&#3627408466;&#3627408480; &#3627408474;??????&#3627408465;&#3627408466;∗
&#3627408454;&#3627408481;??????&#3627408481;&#3627408464;ℎ??????&#3627408475;&#3627408468; &#3627408481;??????&#3627408474;&#3627408466; &#3627408477;&#3627408466;&#3627408479; &#3627408465;&#3627408466;&#3627408483;??????&#3627408464;&#3627408466;
 Application of our model can automate the process of calculating the number
of pieces stitched in a given time, ensuring a better sewing floor performance.
Figure 51. Set-up of Device Figure 50. Device Application

109 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Appendices
Appendix II – Company and machine details
COMPANY Gaurav
International
MACHINE

Year of Estd. 1987 SEWING
M / C
Stitch
type
M ake / M
o del
No.of
M /C
Make /
Model
No.of
M/C
Make /
Model
No.of
M/C
Annual
Turnover
(Rs. crore)
857.85 Cr SNLS
Ordinary
Lock
stitch
HIGHLED:
GC-1008
20 JUKI: DDL
8000
20 JUKI: DDL-
8500
6
Proprietary/
Partner./ Pvt.
Limited
Company
SNLS With
UBT
Lock
stitch
JUKI 8100 243 JA KE SHA
RLY
33 JUKI: DDL-
8700-7
26
Export/
Doms/ Both./
100 %EO
Exports DNLS
Ordinary
Lock
stitch
BROTHER
LT-2B -845
8 BROTHER
T8420B
9 JUKI LH-
312B
6
In house /
Fabrication/
Both
ZIGZAG Lock
stitch
JUKI LZ-
2284
1 SUNSTA R
SS-2070
1

Total
Covered A
rea Sq. mt.
SNCS Chain
stitch

Total
Workforce
1200 DNCS Chain
stitch
HIGHLED
M H480
1 JUKI: M H-
382/380
4


Feed Off
the Arm
Chain
stitch
JUKI M
S1190
2

Organisation
Pattern

Multi
needle
C/S
Chain
stitch
FUCON FB
4142
2 KA TT
KL16084
2 KA NSA I B
X-1433 P
SSM
1
Owner Deepak
Seth
General
Manager
Anand
Bhatia
Factory
Manager
4 Th. O/L Chain
stitch
PEGA SUS
M -752-13
8 P EGA SUS
M -832
6

Manager
operations

5 Th. O/L Chain
stitch
JA KE
5559
8 P EGA SUS
M -732
7 P EGA
SUS M
932/355
34
Production
manager
Kamalesh
Rai
6th. O/L
Flat Lock
Chain
stitch
PEGA SUS
M -732-355
64


Lock
stitch
P EGA
SUS W-
1600 F/T
1 P EGA SUS
W-664 F/T
1 P EGA
SUS W-
662 F/T
3
CUTTING
Dept.

Flat Lock Chain
stitch
P EGA
SUS W-
1500 C/S
1 P EGA SUS
W-562 C/S
1

Production
Manager
Kamalesh
Rai
Bartack Lock
stitch
JUKI LK-
1900
6

Pattern
Master
Aiyappan Button
sew C/S
Lock
stitch
BROTHER
HE-800-A
5 JUKI LK-
1903
4 BROTHER
B E-438 D
9
Cutting
Master/ Asst.
Sudhir
Singh
Button
hole
Chain
stitch
JUKI LB H-
1790
7

Workers /
Helpers
30 Button sew ( snap
button)
GS 5

Shopfloor
area

CUTTING
M/C

Make /
Model
No.
of
M/C
FINISHING
M/C

Make /
Model
No.
of
M/C

STRAIGHT
KNIFE
EA
STM
AN
692X 11 VACCUM
TABLE

SEWING
Dept.

BAND
KNIFE
EA
STM
AN
EC-700-G 1 UP STEAM
TABLE

Production
manager
Kamalesh
Rai
ROUND
KNIFE
0 FORM
FINISHER
Asst. P.M ./
Supervisor
Abhishek DIE
CUTTING
0 STAIN
REMOVING
4

Asst.
Supervisor
SERVO
CUTTER
0 STAIN
REMOVING
Operators 967 CAM 0 WASHING 12

110 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
M/C
Helpers

DRILL M/C EA
STM
AN
3 HYDRO 2

Shopfloor
area
CAD

2 TUMBLE
DYER
4


DRY
CLEANING
0

Molding Dept
Production
manager
N/A

Operators N/A Molding
Machine

Make /
Model
No.
of
M/C
Checker N/A 2 Mold 0
4 Mold 0

Shopfloor
area
N/A


Packing Dept
Production
manager
I KHAN

Operators 28

TOTAL SEWING
MACHINES
Helpers 7 937
Shopfloor
area

Table 7. Company and Machine Details

Appendix III – Spreading department









Table 8. Spreading Department



Style
Fabri
c
Robby Red Large Plaid
Shirt Woven
Fabric Width
58
Solid/YarnDyed/Pr
int Nap
Yes N/A
NOW- FOW
Yarn Dyed
One way - NOW-
FOW
Fabric
Detail
21x21/68x52 100% Twill Cotton
Chec ked Fibr
e
100% Twill
Cotton Manual Spreading
Spreading M/c
Type Spreading
Mode No.of Clamp
Used Table Height
35.5 in
Machine Spreading ?
Make
Lay Length
No N/A
9.41m
Use of
pins
Splicin
g
Model
No
N/
A
How
Old
N/
A
0 No.of Weights
Used
6 No
Table Width 84
in
Table Length 10
m
Fabric Pac kage Type
Use of papers between
layers Table top type
Open Width Fabric
Roll
No
Airflotation System
Room Layout with position of spreading / cutting table & other M/c shown (attach
separate sheet) Working Condition (Light, fan etc.)
Lights per Sq.mt.
Lay No.
Time Duration in min. No. of Layers
Total fabric handled* Spreading
operators
* (No. of layers x Lay length)+ End
bits Lay No.
Time Duration in min. No. of Layers
Total fabric handled* Spreading
operators Name
operator operator
2
Light, Fan
Fans per Sq.mt.
1 Height of light from cutting
table
102c
m Lay Height 2.5-
3"
58 min
103
968 meters
3
No. of Fab
Layers
10
3
MarkerType Paper / Fabric / CAD /
On line
CA
D
Lay Height 2.5-
3"
58 min
103
968 meters
3
No. of Fab
Layers
10
3
MarkerType Paper / Fabric / CAD /
On line
CA
D
Ag
e
25
23
Se
x M
M
Educatio
n Matric
Matric
Heigh
t 58
56
Ratin
g 9/10
7/10
How long working in the
deptt. 4
2
Salaried/Hourly
wage
12000/month
11000/month

111 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Appendix IV – Cutting department













Appendix VI – Merchandising Department
Order/Style 1
Country of buyer Hong kong
buyer GAP
Garment description:
Women's
tiered Shirt

Fabric details - Knits/wovens/solid
dyed/yarn dyed/print* Wovens/Print
Fabric description: 100% Cotton
Order quantity/original delivery date: 05/08/2022
Date
Activity Description On/From To Remarks
1
Date buyer meeting (sampling
request+specifications received) 10-03-2022
2 Date FIT samples were sent to the buyer 15-03-2022
3
Date comment (approval/rejection) received
from the buyer 19-03-2022
Duration of FIT 1st iteration (steps 2 - 3) 19-03-2022
#####
###
Duration of FIT 2nd iteration(steps 2 - 3)
4
Date Order Confirmation
(Col+Qty+Delv+Price) 22-03-2022
(4000+27/06/2022
+289inr)
5 Date size set were sent to buyer 27-03-2022
6 Date comment on size set from buyer 29-03-2022
Duration of size set: 1st iteration (steps 5 - 6)
Duration of size set 2nd iteration (steps 5 - 6)
7 Date lab dip were sent to the buyer 23-03-2022
C UT T IN G D EP A R T M EN
T
Style
Ro bby Red Large P laid
Shirt Fabric Woven
Fabric Width 50 So lid/YarnDyed/P rint
Fibre Co nten 100% Twill Cotton Nap ONE WA
Y(NOW,FOW) Fabric Detail 21x21/68x52 100% Twill Cotton Checked (Use Separate Fo rmat for different fabrics, different style) M
arker M o de
Type of cutting machine
NOW,FOW No. of patterns per
garment Straight Knife Cutter
10 M arker way 2 Ways M arker
length
9.41m
Cutting M /c Type Straight Knife M ake
Eastman
B lade Length Type - Wavy/Straight Straight
Avg.blade Life
M o del
95
sharpenings
B rute How Old ?
B lo ck Cutting ? No
2-5 years
>8"
Frequency of blade sharpening while cutting
Table Height 35.5 in Table Length & Width Width- 84 in Length - 10 m Table top type A ir
flo atatio n system Room Layo ut with po sitio n of cutting table & other M /c sho wn (attach separate sheet)
Wo rking Co nditio n (Light, fan etc.)
Lights per
Sq.mt.
2
Cutting By band
knife Lay Height 3"
Fans per
Sq.mt.
1 Height of light fro m cutting
table
102 cm
Lay No.
Time Duratio n in
min. No. of P atterns
cut Linear Length*
cut
No. of Notches
Cutting M aster/s
No. of Fab
Layers
114 M arkerType P aper / Fabric / CAD / On
line
CAD
30
188
5.8m
0
1
* For finding o ut linear length measure each pattern o utlines individually and add no . of patterns cut during that
ho ur Lay No. Running
Time
Time Duratio n in
min. No. of P atterns
cut Linear Length*
cut
No. of Notches
Cutting M aster/s
Name
Lay Height 2.5-
3"
No. of Fab
Layers
103 M arkerType P aper / Fabric / CAD / On
line
CAD
1hr 30
150
4.75 m
0
2
A ge
25
Sex
M
Educatio n
Height M atric 5'7"
Rating
9/10
How lo ng wo rking in the
deptt. 4 years
Salaried/Ho urly
wage 12,000/mo nth
*** the straight knife is o nly used to cut blo cks so the band knife is userd to cut parts so all the cut part readings are for band
knife
Table 9. Cutting Department

112 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
8
Date comment (approval/rejection) on lab dip
from buyer 25-03-2022
Duration of lab dip 1st iteration(steps 7 - 8) 26-03-2022
#####
###
Duration of lab dip 2nd iteration(steps 7 - 8)
9 Date first lot finished fabric received in store 10-04-2022
1
0
Date bulk fabric (from first lot) sent to buyer for
colour approval 12-04-2022
1
1
Date bulk fabric colour (approval/rejection)
received from buyer 14-04-2022

Duration of fabric colour approval 1st iteration
(steps 10 - 11)

Duration of fabric colour approval 2nd iteration
(steps 10 - 11)
1
2
Date processed fabric (first approved lot) sent
for lab test 16-04-2022
1
3
Date lab test comment (approval/rejection)
received 20-04-2022
Duration of lab test 1st iteration (steps 12 - 13) 21-04-2022
#####
###
Duration of lab test 2nd iteration (steps 12 - 13)
1
4
Date Bulk embroidery thread sent to buyer for
approval N/A
1
5
Date Bulk embroidery thread approval/rejection
received N/A

Duration embroidery thread approval 1st
iteration (steps 14 - 15)

Duration embroidery thread approval 2nd
iteration (steps 14 - 15)
1
6 Duration cutting 25-04-2022
#####
###
1
7 Duration Sewing 25-04-2022
#####
###
1
8 Duration washing (if applicable) 29-04-2022
#####
###
1
9 Date production piece sent to buyer
2
0 Date goods out of factory (in exporting country) 30-04-2022
20-07-2022
Table 10. Merchandising Department

113 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Appendix VII – Apaprel CAD evaluation format
Section a
QUESTIONNARE

SEGMENT – I (ORGANIZATION)

i. Which Cad system is being used in your organization?
Optitex

ii. When was the CAD system being implemented in your organization?
• Before 5 years
• 3-5 years
• 1-3 years
• less than 1 year

iii. How many times has the organization upgraded the CAD software or installed /
changed to a new one?
• Once
• Two - five times
• Almost every year
• Whenever required

SEGMENT – II (PURPOSE)

i. Is CAD easier than traditional methods?
(a) User’s point of view: Yes, it saves a lot of time and hard work,
alterations become much easier and quick to do.
(b) Your point of view: Yes, traditional methods require too much physical
effort and CAD also gives accurate patterns faster.

ii. For what purpose/s is the CAD system being used? (Can be more than one)
• Only for pattern making
• For digitizing the patterns provided by buyer’s
• Marker planning
• Alterations in patterns
• Grading
• Other’s

iii. Does CAD result in greater productivity, is it more lucrative?

114 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
(a) Yes
(b) If no,
why?_______________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________ _____
___________

SEGMENT – III (GENERAL)

i. Do you feel that CAD is affordable?
• Yes
• No
• Cant say

ii. Are traditional skills required to work on CAD?
No
Please Comment: Traditional skills do help but are not necessary because
CAD is a whole different software that requires training of its own.


iii. Are experienced pattern makers (who manually developed patterns and markers)
easily accepting the extensive use of CAD / CAM?
• Yes
• No
• Sometimes

iv. Is the combination of an individual readily available who is an expert in CAD /
CAM and pattern making?
• Yes, always
• No, sometimes
• Rarely

SEGMENT- IV (TRAINING)

i. Was any training imparted to the operator when the new soft-ware was installed?
• Yes
• No
• If yes, then for how many days?
- Less than 7 days
- 7-15 days
- More than 15 days

115 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
ii. Are you satisfied with the training given?
• Yes
• No
• If no, please specify the reason?
- Training should be of longer duration
- Language problem
- Any other __________________________

iii. Do you think that training is only required when a new software is installed or do
you recommend an in-house training otherwise as-well?
• Training every year or 6-months
• Only when a software is installed

iv. Do you think that the person working on CAD / CAM should be well versed in
Pattern and Marker development or should he have fair knowledge about textile
and styling as-well?

Please Comment: They should be well versed with textile and styling as well
because often buyers are not satisfied with the styling they expect from the
CAD person. Knowledge about fabric is also crucial since it affects the final
look of the garment as different fabric have different physical properties.


SEGMENT – V (PEOPLE INVOLVED)

i. How many people are working in the pattern development and marker making
department?
Please specify, (approx.) 7
ii. Has the number changed (increased / decreased) with the usage of CAD?
• Reduced
• Are the same
• Can’t say
iii. What is the age of person working on CAD?
• 20-25 yrs.
• 25-35 yrs
• Above 35 yrs.
iv. Does he have any prior work experience on CAD?
• Yes
• No
• If yes, then how many years?
- 1 yr.
- 1-2 yrs
- More than 2 yrs.

116 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Section b

The following factors have been identified to have an influence on
adoption of CAD / CAM.
(Kindly select the most appropriate option)
Factors
influencing
adoption of
IT
Strongly
positive
Moderately
positive
Indifferen
t
Moderatel
y negative
Strongl
y
negativ
e
Can’t
say
High Price


Reduces
dependence
on people


Failed
installation in
other
organization


Collaborative
working
between
various
employees,
supplier and
buyer is
easier


Ability of
supplier to
train the
users in our
organization


Saves fabric

117 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report

The supplier
does not
have an
office in the
location
where my
organization
is situated


Improves
first pass
quality
product


Reduces
throughput
time for
product
assemble


Requirement
of constant
training


Ready
availability of
literate
professionals


Constant up
gradation of
system
required


Others
please
specify--------
---

118 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Section d

Analyzing usage of various functions in the CAD / CAM systems.

Note: Kindly tick mark in the relevant column and pen down any remark / comment
related to the point in the last column.

S.No. Criteria Always Sometimes/
Occasionally
Rarely Never Additional
Comment
1. Digitization ✓
2. On screen
pattern
construction

3. Notches option ✓
4. Dart
manipulation


5. Grading tools ✓
6. Size
correspondence


7. Specification
sheet
development

8. Piece assembly ✓
9. Variant tools ✓
10. Marker planning ✓

11. Plotting ✓

12. Piece rotation ✓

119 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report

13. Measurement
capabilities

14. Pattern Design
functions- Darts,
pleats, trace,
cut, combine,
shrink, stretch,
flip, Rotate
pattern.

15. Removing and
adding patterns

120 Pearl Global Industries Ltd. Apparel Internship Report
Appendix IX – Plant layout
The layout for Pearl Global’s ground floor is given below.
Figure 52. Plant Layout