I write about advance weaving and it's types and uses. Also add some pictures of weaving patterns and fabric examples.
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Added: Jul 04, 2024
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ADVANCE WEAVES Name :- Simran Class :- FD 2 nd year Subject :- Textile
About Advance Weaves Weaving is a method of textile production that involves interlacing two or more sets of yarns or threads at right angles to form a fabric or cloth.
This intertwining of threads produces various patterns and textures, forming the basis for many types of woven fabrics.
Woven cloth can be plain (in one colour or a simple pattern), or can be woven in decorative or artistic designs.
Advance weaves refers as complex weave structure.
There are some advance weaves & fancy weaves effects which are also used to create some more fabrics with beautiful effects. These weaves are follows:- Crepe weave/Granite weave
Huckaback weave Honeycomb weave
Pile & Cut Pile weave
Double Cloth weave
Gauze weave
Swivel weave & Lappet weave
Triaxial weave
CREPE WEAVE/GRANITE WEAVE Crepe weave is a simple weave that produces a fabric with a rough texture.
Seedy effect with the use of hard-twist and textured yarns for making crepe fabrics.
Crepe fabric is usually produced on a dobby or jacquard loom. It is generally thin and sheer, fine and opaque but can also be heavy sometimes.
This weave structure constitutes a useful variety to the simple weaves, and due to their pebbly or crinkled (rough) surface, fabrics are known as “crape” or “oatmeal” fabrics.
Therefore, the type of crepe fabric is determined by the size of the pebbles and their arrangement on the fabric surface.
Crepe yarn is used to make crepe-designed fabric. High twisted yarn is called crepe yarn. It has curling properties. It is achieved by interlacing different colored threads in a specific pattern.
The crepe weave gives the fabric a unique drape and adds dimension to the overall look.
FABRICS IN CREPE WEAVE In crepe weave, various types of fabrics can be used to create the crinkled or textured effect. Some common fabrics used in crepe weave include silk crepe, polyester crepe, and rayon crepe.
Crepe fabric is often wrinkled and bumpy. It’s breathable, drapes well, and adds depth and dimension to garments.
Fabrics made of a crepe weave of spun or filament yarns are Granite, or Momie cloth, and sand crepe.
USES OF CREPE WEAVE:- Crepe fabrics are also sometimes printed with decorative designs and sold as a light and cheap material known as “cretonne”, which is employed extensively as loose coverings for furniture, antimacassars, covers, curtains and wall hangings, and for many other similar household articles.
It’s commonly used in clothing, such as blouses, dresses, and scarves, as the crinkled surface adds a distinctive touch. Crepe fabric drapes well, so it is suitable for elegant evening wear and bridal gowns. The characteristics of crepe-weave fabrics depend largely upon the kind of yarn used.
If ordinary yarns are used and the crepe weave is employed to give a crepe appearance, then the fabric will have little drapability , low strength, and limited durability.
Some crepe fabrics tend to stretch and some may shrink when subjected to wetting. CHARACTERISTICS CREPE WEAVE CONSTRUCTION METHOD : The methods of construction of crepe weave are given below: • Satin base crepe weave • Crepe weave by reversing small motif. • Crepe weave by combining plain and floating weave • Insertion of one weave over another.
CREPE WEAVE CONSTRUCTION METHOD :
HUCKABACK WEAVE Huck-a-back is made by combining a plain weave with a floating weave.
Plain weave gives firmness to the structure, while longer float weave increases the absorbency of fabric.
The weave is divided into four equal parts.
The floats are usually arranged in a way that produces a repeating pattern, often with diamond of geometric shapes.
Huckaback weave has a number of warp and weft threads with long float. Making the fabric soft and moisture absorbent.
The weft yarns are loosely twisted and have a lower count, which makes the weave absorbent.
These weaves are generally applied in the manufacturing of non-pile towels.
Huck a back weaves are suitable for producing thick and heavy textures. One of the well known heavier varieties of this class is the “Grecians”.
It is commonly used for kitchen linens, bath towels, dishcloths, and other household textiles.
HONEYCOMB WEAVE Honeycomb weave is a textile pattern that resembles the hexagonal cells of a honeycomb. It’s also known as waffle weave or diamond weave.
These cells are typically raised above the base fabric, creating a distinctive pattern.
It creates a textured pattern with a three- dimensional effect.
Honeycomb weaves form ridges and hollows which give a cell like appearance to the textures.
In this weave, both warp and weft threads move freely on both sides, which coupled with rough structure.
This weave is commonly used in towels, bed covers, blankets, bath mats and other textiles. The honeycomb structure allows for increased absorbency and breathability, making it a popular choice for items that need to be moisture-wicking or provide insulation.
It is also used for quilts and soft furnishings, and in finer qualities for shirts and brocades.
PILE WEAVE The pile weave technique involves creating loops of yarn on the surface of the fabric, which are then cut or left intact to create the pile, which is a raised, fluffy texture.
They are commonly used for upholstery, rugs, and carpeting, as well as for clothing, home decor and accessories. They can be found in furniture such as sofas, chairs, and ottomans.
The pile is a fancy weave that also includes a plain or a twill construction. Its construction is especially desirable when softness, warmth, and absorbency are desired.
Pile weaves can be found in a variety of fabrics, including velvet, corduroy, chenille, and boucl .
CUT PILE WEAVE Cut pile weave is a style of weaving that creates a plush, velvety texture. In this technique, threads are cut between the layers of cloth or on the face of the fabric. The fabric is then cropped to the desired height.
This technique may be used to make such fabrics as velvet.
Cut-pile fabrics have certain limitations. They catch lint and spot easily.
The W method produces a more durable fabric and one less likely to develop bald spots because the pile is held in place by three yarns rather than the one yarn used in the V method.
DOUBLE CLOTH WEAVE Double cloth weave is a woven textile with two layers. The layers are made from two or more sets of warp and weft yarns. The layers are interlaced by parent threads or stitching threads.
In the double-cloth weave, two fabrics are woven on the loom at the same time, one on top of the other. The fabric may have a plain weave on one side and a twill weave on the other.
This weaving technique allows for different patterns, colors , or textures on each side of the fabric.
Double cloth weave is often used to create reversible garments, blankets, or upholstery fabrics that offer versatility and visual interest. It’s a fascinating weaving technique that adds depth and complexity to the fabric.
CLASSIFICATION OF DOUBLE CLOTHS 1. Self-Stitched Double Cloths These fabrics contain only the two series of threads in both directions and the stitching of the face cloth layer to the back layer. 2. Centre-Stitched Double Cloths The center threads lie between the face and the back cloth for the purpose of stitching oscillate at regular intervals. 3. Double Cloths Stitched by Thread Interchange some portions of the cloth the face ends may be made to inter-weave with the back picks and the back ends with the face picks. Distinct layers to form figure areas of open double cloth on the firm single cloth ground.
CLASSIFICATION OF DOUBLE CLOTHS 4 . Double Cloth Stitched by Cloth Interchange As stitching between the two fabrics occurs only at the point of cloth interchange the degree of cohesion in this type of cloth depends on the frequency of the interchange. 5. Alternate Single-ply and Double-ply Constructions In some fabrics the constituent thread components are occasionally merged together into a heavily set single cloth and occasionally are separated into
GAUZE WEAVE The true gauze weave construction produces a fabric very light in weight and with an open-mesh effect.
Gauze fabrics are known for their breathability and transparency.
Gauze weave is a type of fabric construction that creates a lightweight and sheer fabric using a loose weave pattern, often with spaced and loosely twisted yarns.
Gauze fabric weaving process is crossed with overlapping yarns, which makes it firm and durable.
Curtain materials and some shirting and dress goods are woven with this weave.
Gauze fabrics are often used in medical settings for bandages and dressings, but they can also be found in fashion, such as in flowy dresses, lightweight scarves, and curtains.
MOCK LENO’S OR LACE WEAVE Mock leno weave is a type of weave that creates a lace-like effect without twisting the warp ends. The ends of each group are drawn into the same dent, which bunches the floating ends together and creates a gap in the fabric.
Mock leno weave is often produced with an even number repeat size. The best lace effects are achieved with a checkerboard arrangement of warp and weft floats.
Mock leno fabrics often have a lace-like appearance with a combination of open spaces and intricate patterns.
Mock leno find uses in canvas cloths, cheap fabrics for window curtains, tablecloths, light dress fabrics, blouses, decorative textiles, aprons etc.
These weaves are generally produced in combination with plain, twill, satin or other simple weaves or even with brocade figuring, to produce striped fabrics.
SWIVEL WEAVE The swivel weave is the method by which decorative effects, such as dots, circles, or other figures, are interwoven on the surface of a fabric while it is being constructed on the loom. The weaving of the design requires an extra filling yarn and additional small shuttles or insertion devices. A separate shed is made for them. While the fabric is being constructed, the row of small shuttles drops across the width of the loom, and each interweaves its separate design with a circular motion on a small area of the warp.
A long thread is carried on the undersurface of the fabric from one designto the next. Different color may be used in each of the designs because each figure is woven with its own specific bobbin. Fabrics in Swivel Weave: The swivel weave is employed with sheer lightweights, such as dotted Swiss and grenadine, and medium-weights, such as madras.
LAPPET WEAVE This weave is used to superimpose a small design on the face of the fabric as it is being woven.
The design is made with one continuous additional yarn carried on the back of the fabric from one design to the next.
The floating threads in between the designs are cut if they are long; otherwise they are left uncut, which at times may result in snagging.
Lappet weave is considered strong and durable, but it is comparatively expensive.
Lappet weave refers to a type of weaving technique used to create decorative and ornamental patterns on fabric.
The resulting fabric is not only visually appealing but also tactile, with a textured surface that adds a luxurious quality to the textile.
In this weaving Various effects and patterns are produced along with the ground fabric.
The figures are produced by giving horizontal motion to a thick end, simultaneously upon a fine muslin or gauze ground.
TRIAXIAL WEAVE Two- Three sets of warp yarns are generally inserted at 60° to the weft.
Triaxial weaving can be done by hand or using specialized looms. While it may be more complex than traditional weaving, the resulting fabric is known for its interesting visual texture.
Triaxial weaving produces material which is structurally superior to most sorts of rectangular weaving. Since the structural elements run in three directions, the resulting fabric is much more resistant to shearing forces.
The resulting fabric has a distinctive geometric pattern and exhibits a level of strength and flexibility.
Triaxial woven fabric is used in products that require a high degree of dimensional stability, such as: Upholstery carpeting, Automotive fabrics, Inflatable equipment, Life vests, Helicopter flotation devices, Safety clothing, Sailcloth for boats.
Also used to create fabric with a high degree of stretches such as spandex or Lycra. USES OF TRIAXIAL WEAVE METHOD OF CONSTRUCTION In the basic construction of a Triaxial fabric one yarn runs horizontally, second yarn runs on a bias at a 60 degree angle to the first, and the third yarn runs in the opposite direction of the second and also at a 60 degree angle to the first, forming a Triaxial interlocking, as opposed to the 90 degree biaxial interlocking of the conventional weaving technique. As the process is repeated, hexagonal interstices are formed rather than the squares of the conventional construction.
FANCY WEAVE EFFECTS Fancy weaves are constructed by changing the interlacing patterns of the weaves, as such special attachments looms and control devices are necessary to produce these fabrics competitively.
This fancy weave is constructed by combining two or more small regular twills to form large diagonals.
Fancy yarn is also known as structual design.
Some novel effects can be produced by following methods. Two picks are floated on the top of a plain cloth every ten picks and these loose picks are bound only by two ends out of every twelve.
The loose picks are pulled in opposite directions by the loose ends, and the result is that small.
CRIMP STRIPES When warp and weft yarn interlace in fabric they follow a wavy path. This waviness of yarn is called crimp.
Crimps have recently been very fashionable. They are usually produced by having two warps at different tensions.
The warp to weave the crimp is lightly weighted as compared with the warp of the other stripe, which may be plain or satin as desired, and is let off intermittently. If the crimp warp is very hard twisted the effect is increased.
The first two picks are of ordinarily twisted weft, and the third and fourth picks are very hard twisted.
PIQUE WEAVE “Pique” come from the French word meaning “quilted.”
Because of the raised effect in these fabrics is similar to that in quilts.
The Pique weave produces a fabric with ridges, called wales or cords, that are held up by floats on the back side of the fabric.
“Stuffer Yarns are laid under the ridges in better quality pique fabrics to emphasize the roundness.
It has excellent breathability and durability which gives massive comfort to the wearers.
Pique weave is a decorative weave structure. It is also known as Marcella.
It is used to produce various types of trimmings and ornamented fabrics. Also uses in sportswear, shirts, casual summer jackets, dresses, waistcoats, etc.