Basics of Weaving

Basic weave is a fundamental weaves which is used for creating basic and advance structure of fabric. Basic weaves are Plain, Twill , Satin and its derivatives.

1. Basics of weaving
Sh. Anil Kumar
Assistant Professor
Department of Textile Design,
DLCSUPVA, ROHTAK
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Weaving “Interlacement of warp and weft”
•Weaving occurs when two or more yarns are woven together at right
angles to make a fabric.
•A woven fabric consists of warp and weft yarns

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Weaving Table top loom

Parts of Table top loom


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Weaving loom

Pawer loom

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Loom
A machine for producing fabric by weaving.
Handloom Power looms
Air jetRapier
Shuttle less loomsShuttle looms
Water jetProjectile
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Weaving Process
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Weaving & Its Parts
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❑Primary motions:
1.Shedding: Dividing the warp threads in to two halves.
2.Picking : Insertion of weft.
3.Beating up: Beating the weft up to fell of the cloth.
❑Secondary motion:
1.Take up motion: Taking up the woven cloth and winding on the cloth
roller.
2.Let-off motion: Letting of the warp wound on the warp beam when the
cloth is taken up on the cloth roller
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❑Primary motions:
1.Shedding: Dividing the warp threads in to two halves.
2.Picking : Insertion of weft.
3.Beating up: Beating the weft up to fell of the cloth.
Shedding Picking Beating
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Classification of Weave Patterns
The two major categories based on the types of weaves are Basic or Simple
weave and Compound or complex weaves which are further categorized in the
following categories:
•Basic/Simple Weaves
❖Plain Weave
❖Twill Weave
❖Satin Weave
Compound/Complex/Novelty Weaves
❖Dobby Weave &Jacquard Weave
❖Double Cloth & Multilayer
❖Surface Figure Weaves
❖Bedford cord etc.
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Basic Weave
Plain Weave :
Most simple and most common type of construction
,Inexpensive to produce, durable ,Flat, tight surface is
conducive to printing and other finishes
•Method of Construction: Each filling yarn goes
alternately under and over the warp yarns
•Common Fabrics: Cotton calicos, cheesecloth,
gingham, percale, voile
•Household Uses: Draperies, tablecloths, upholstery
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Derivatives of Plain weave
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Derivatives of Plain weave
Warp Rib
These are produced by extending the
plain weave in warp wary direction.
Figure shows the warp rib weaves
constructed on regular and irregular
basis.
At A, B and C are seen regular warp rib
weaves and at D, is shown the irregular
warp rib weave. E and F show the
interlacing of D and A respectively.
-
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Derivatives of Plain weave
Weft Rib
These are constructed by extending the
plain weave in weft direction In both the
warp and weft rib weaves, the
appearance of the cloth depends on the
respective thread settings, and to achieve
good effects, it is necessary to weave a
weft rib with a high number of picks per
inch and a comparatively low number of
ends per inch.
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Basket weave
•Made with two or more adjacent warps and two or more fillings
•Interlacing pattern similar to plain—two or more yarns follow same
parallel path
•Most common are 2x2 or 4x4
•Variations include 2x1 and 2x3
fabrics that have a basket weave:
•Oxford cloth
•Duck
•Canvas
•Hopsacking
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Twill Weave
Creates a diagonal, chevron, hounds tooth,
corkscrew, or other design ,The design is enhanced
with colored yarn.
•Method of Construction:
•Three or more shafts; warp or filling floats over
two or more counterpart yarns in progressive steps
right or left
•Common Fabrics:
•Denim, gabardine, serge, tweed
•Household Uses:
•Upholstery, comforters, pillows
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Derivatives of Twill Weave
❖Ordinary or continuous twills
❖Zig zag , pointed or wavy twills
❖Rearranged twills such as satin/sateen weaves and corkscrew weaves
❖Combination twills
❖Broken twills
❖Figured and other related twill weaves
❖The above types of twills are further sub classified as:
•Warp face twills
•Weft face twills
•Warp and weft face twills
•Continuous Twills
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2/2 Twill 2/1 Twill Triple twill 16 x16Steep twill,
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•Satin & Sateen
•Smooth, soft luster , Excellent
Drape ,Floats snag easily
•Method of Construction:
•Floats one warp yarn over four or
more weft yarns, then tied down
with one thread, resulting in a
smooth face
•Common Fabrics:
•Satin, satin-weave fabrics out of
fabrics such as cotton.
•Household Uses:
•Draperies, quilts
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•Satin & Sateen
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Knit Fabrics
Knitting- yarns are fashioned by needles into
a series of interlocking loops to make a
fabric
Knits provide stretch
Knits don't need a seam or edge finish; will
not fray
Single knit fabric curls to the right side when
stretched
Interlock knit is thicker
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Non-woven
•Does not have a distinct pattern
•Generally stiff and somewhat scratchy
•Method of Construction:
•Fibers are bonded by mechanical or chemical
means
•Common Fabrics:
•Pelon
•Household Uses:
•Bedding, backing for quilts, dust cloths for
box springs, carpet backing, and upholstered
furniture
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Felt Fabric
•Soft, non-woven, can pull apart
•Method of Construction:
•Felting occurs when heat, moisture, agitation,
and pressure are applied to wool fibers, causing
the fibers to interlock permanently.
•Common Fabrics:
•Felt
•Household Uses:
•Padding, sound-proofing, insulation, filtering,
and polishing, wall hangings and other
decorative items
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Foam
•Soft, air holes, absorbent, resilient
•Method of Construction:
•Rubber or polyurethane substance with air
incorporated causing foaming, quite inexpensive,
rots
•Common Fabrics:
•Sponges
•Household Uses:
•Carpet backing, padding, pillows and cushions,
laminates to other fabrics
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Film:-
•Plastic-like material, repels liquid, stiff
•Mildews, rots, tears
•Inexpensive, fairly durable
•Method of Construction:
•Made from synthetic solutions formed into thin sheets
•Common Fabrics:
•Vinyl
•Household Uses:
•Tablecloths, shower curtains, draperies, upholstery, and wall
coverings
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Thank you
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