Beneficial and Harmful Insects PowerPoint

396 views 25 slides Nov 08, 2024
Slide 1
Slide 1 of 25
Slide 1
1
Slide 2
2
Slide 3
3
Slide 4
4
Slide 5
5
Slide 6
6
Slide 7
7
Slide 8
8
Slide 9
9
Slide 10
10
Slide 11
11
Slide 12
12
Slide 13
13
Slide 14
14
Slide 15
15
Slide 16
16
Slide 17
17
Slide 18
18
Slide 19
19
Slide 20
20
Slide 21
21
Slide 22
22
Slide 23
23
Slide 24
24
Slide 25
25

About This Presentation

Beneficial and Harmful Insects


Slide Content

A closer look at Beneficial and Harmful Insects
Presented By:
Lauren Murphy
Edward O’Connell
Jordan Roach
&

Not all insects are pests; in fact, a great
many of them are beneficial to man.
Entomologists recognize the good done
by beneficial insects as well as the
injury done by harmful ones.

Ladybug or Ladybeetle
or ?

Aphids
or ?

Mealybugs
or ?

Lacewing
or ?

Japanese Beetle
or ?

Praying Mantis
or ?

Bee
or ?

Spider Mites
or ?

Beneficial Insects
Predators, parasites, and pollinators are the most
important beneficial insects.
Good bugs aid the gardener in many ways. They aid in
production of flowers by pollination, destroy various
weeds, improve soil conditions, and pray on harmful
insects in the garden. Some good bugs are
Ladybugs or Ladybeetles, Lacewings, Praying
Mantis, Bees and many Wasps, Assasin Bug and all
of their larvae are beneficial feeding on many bugs.

Pollinating Insects
•There are many important pollinating insect species in the orders:
•Hymenoptera (bees, wasps, and ants)
•Lepidoptera (butterflies and moths)
•Diptera (flies)
•Coleoptera (beetles)
•As adults these insects feed on pollen and/or nectar from flowers.
They forage from plant to plant and may initiate pollination by
transferring pollen from an anther to a stigma. Female bees
(Apoidea) and pollen wasps (Masarinae) provision their nests
with pollen and/or nectar that they actively collect onto their
bodies. Their larvae then feed on the collected pollen and nectar.
Yucca moth (Prodoxidae) larvae do not feed on pollen or nectar
but on the seeds of yucca plants. The adults pollinate the yucca
plant by actively collecting pollen onto their palps and then
placing the collected pollen on a receptive stigma to ensure
proper seed set for their offspring.

•Pollinators are usually multi-habitat insects, requiring resources found in
different habitats at different times. For instance most pollinating insects
require:
•Nest sites (many bees and wasps)
•Larval feeding sites (beetles, butterflies, moths, flies, and some wasps)
•Hunting sites (some wasps and flies)
•Over-wintering sites
•Furthermore, all of these sites must occur in areas with optimal (or at least
tolerable) light, temperature, and humidity levels, and perhaps have
relatively low densities of natural enemies. The dependence of native
pollinators on the appropriate habitats must be recognized . Populations will
not persist in a habitat if all life stage requirements are not met. A bumble
bee species might require abandoned rodent burrows for nest sites and a
particular range of flower types as pollen and nectar sources. Many solitary
bees and wasps require specific nesting substrates (e.g., soil banks,
decaying wood), as well as a variety of materials for nest construction such
as mud, resin, leaves, plant hairs, or pebbles. These resources support the
pollinator populations, and in return, the pollinators aid in the reproduction
and maintenance of genetic diversity of the plant community and interact
with other organisms as prey or host items.

Bees

   
The Orchard Mason Bee is the common name of a nonsocial
native bee (Osmia lignaria ssp.) that pollinates our spring fruit
trees, flowers and vegetables. This gentle, blue-black metallic bee
does not live in hives. In nature it nests within hollow stems,
woodpecker drillings and insect holes found in trees or wood.
Sometimes there may be dense collections of individual nest
holes, but these bees neither connect or share nests, nor help
provision or protect each others' young. Also, they are active for
only a short period of the year. They are not aggressive and one
may observe them at very close range without fear of being stung,
which makes them excellent for enhancing our yards and gardens.
They add beauty, activity and pollination to our plantings.
However, they do not produce honey.

About Orchard Mason Bees
•The female Orchard Mason Bee visits flowers to collect
pollen for its young. She forms a small ball of pollen and
nectar in the back of the nesting tube and lays an egg on
the ball. She then collects mud to form a cell partition and
repeats the pollen ball-egg laying process until she reaches
the mouth of the tube where she caps the end with mud.
Starting the life cycle in the spring, adult males emerge from
tubes first, but must wait for the later appearance of the
females in order to mate. This event often coincides with the
redbud (Cercis) bloom. Females alone, begin founding new
nests in holes to make a row of 5-10 cells in each nest.
Females collect the pollen and nectar and lay eggs. Their
short foraging range is about 100 yards from the nest.
Activity continues 4-6 weeks and then adults die. During the
summer, larvae develop inside the nests, make cocoons,
and become new adults resting in the cells. With the onset
of fall, the adults become dormant as they go into
hibernation. These bees require some cold temperatures
before spring in order to break their dormancy.

Nest Block Construction
The native eastern species of Orchard Mason Bee will nest in holes drilled
in a wooden block. Untreated 4" x 6" lumber works great. Holes can be
drilled in the wood on 3/4 inch centers. They should be 4-8" deep
(depending upon the size lumber used), smooth, and a 5/16" diameter
hole is important. A smaller hole encourages higher production of male
bees which reduces the reproductive potential of the population. Blocks
may be drilled from either face giving shallower or deeper holes. Shallower
holes may produce more male bees. Do not drill completely through the
lumber. Drill the hole to a depth about 1/2 inch from the back of the block.
Attach a roof to provide protection from the midday sun and rain. Outside
surfaces may be painted or stained, but do not use wood preservatives.
One hole may be drilled in the back to provide a means of hanging the
block. Face nesting blocks as close to the southeast direction as possible
to catch morning sun and affix it firmly so that it does not sway in the wind.
It should be located at least three feet above the ground.

These bees need mud to construct cell partitions, so adding a
mud supply may be helpful if needed. This can be a trench or
tub located nearby where muddy soil is maintained during the
nesting period. The mud should not be highly organic or
sandy. Clay soils work well.
Do not move the blocks during the weeks of active nesting.
Once all nesting activity has stopped, the nesting block may
be moved to a shelter such as a shed or unheated garage. Be
gentle when moving occupied blocks at this time of year. This
will give the bees added protection from predators and
parasites, yet will allow them exposure to the cold
temperatures that they need to break hibernation. If desired,
bee emergence can be delayed for a short period by
refrigerating the block in the spring until you are ready for the
bees to emerge. Bees will need three days to warm up
following refrigeration.

Butterflies

Numerous butterflies feed on nectar from flowers as adults, but
some may use sap, fruit, aphid honeydew, mud, dung, carrion, or
blood. Most adults are spurious pollinators, because food intake is
not always necessary and are opportunistic, with each individual
visiting perhaps dozens of plant species. The larvae typically feed
on the flowers, fruits, stems, or roots of their host plants and in
some species, the adult will feed on the nectar of the host plant
and may aid in the pollination of that plant.

                                                                            

Choosing the Right Flowers
To help pollinator insects, you should provide a range of
plants that offers a succession of flowers through the whole
growing season. Patches of foraging habitat can be
created in many different locations. Even a small area with
the right flowers will be beneficial.
Tips:
-Use local native plants
-Choose several colors of flowers
-Plant flowers in clumps
-Have a diversity of plants flowering all season

Harmful Insects
•Aphids
•Japanese Beetles
both larvae and adults
•Lacebugs
•Mites
•Caterpillars & Worms
•Adelgids
•Mealybugs

Insects that Feed on Juices
Aphids
Spider Mites
Scale Insects
Mealy Bugs, Whiteflies, and Psyllids
True Bugs and Leafhoppers
Insects that Feed on Leaves
Caterpillars
Sawflies
Leafminers
Leaf Beetles
Insects that Bore into Wood
Borers
Barkbeetles
Tip Moths
Other Wood Chewing Insects
Insects that Produce Gals
Galls

Aphids
Wingless
Winged
Nymph

Resources:
WWW.ISU.EDU:
 National
•Selecting Plants for Pollinators
Pollinating Insect-Biology, Management, Systematics - USDA
 ARS
Pollinator Conservation Program - The Xerces Society
Status of Pollinators in North America
NBII Pollinators Project
Alternative Pollinators - NSAIS
Montana Native Plants for Pollinator-Friendly Plantings
Protection of Pollinators (Cropland) - High Plains IPM Guide
International
•The Pollinator Partnership
North American Pollinator Protection Campaign
University of Basel Botanical Image Database
WWW.EXT.VT.EDU:
•Insects of Trees, Shrubs, Annuals, and Perennials
http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/456/456-018/Section_4_Home_Ornamentals-3.pdf
•Protecting Honey Bees
http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/456/456-016/Section-1_Protecting_Honeybees.pdf
•Garden Insects/Pests
http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/category/garden-insects-pests.html
Tags