buidings blocks for formulation of shampoo, toothpaste and creams

raw material used in cosmetics preparation

1. Building blocks for formulation of a shampoo, toothpaste, moisturizing cream & vanishing cream . Presented by Rahul Bhardwaj M.Pharm (2 nd sem.) Pharmaceutics 1

2. Contents… Definition Shampoo Toothpaste Creams Vanishing creams Moisturizing creams 2

3. cosmetics According to D&C act… Any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on or introduced into, or otherwise applied to human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance. 3

4. Shampoos Defination : A shampoo is a preparation of surfactant in a suitable form- liquid solid or powder- which when used under the specified conditions will remove surface grease, dirt & skin debris from the hair shaft & scalp without adversely affecting the user. 4

5. Requirements of shampoo It should produce a good amount of form to satisfy the psychological requirements of the user. It should be easily removed on rinsing with water. It should impart a pleasant fragrance to the hair. It should not cause any side effects / irritation to the skin or eye. It should effectively or completely remove dust or soil. It should not make the hand rough. 5

6. Types of Shampoo Shampoos are of the following types: Powder shampoo Liquid shampoo Lotion shampoo Cream shampoo Specialized shampoo Conditioning shampoo Anti-dandruff shampoo 6

7. Product Ingredients Surfactants are the main component of shampoo. Mainly anionic surfactants are used. Primary surfactants: Provide detergency and foam. Secondary surfactants: Improve detergency, foam & hair condition. Other additives. 7

8. Surfactants Anionic surfactants are mostly used(good forming properties). The hydrophilic portion carries a negative charge which result in superior foaming & cleaning. eg : Sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate, Lauric acid, stearic acid Non-ionic surfactants have good cleansing properties but do not have sufficient foaming power. e g : Sorbitol esters ( TWEENS), Ethoxylated fatty alcohols, Lauric monoethanolamide 8

9. Cont … Cationic surfactants are toxic & are hence not used. However, they may be used in low conc. in hair conditioners . Ampholytics , being expensive, are generally not used. However, they are mainly used as secondary surfactant & good hair conditioners. eg : β – amino acid derivatives, Asparagine derivatives 9

10. Additives Conditioning agents: Lanolin, mineral oil, herbal extracts, egg derivatives. Foam builders: Lauryl monoethanolamide, sarcosinates Viscosity modifiers: Electrolytes: NaCl , Natural gums: Tragacanth , alginates Cellulose derivatives: Hydroxy ethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose Opacifying agents: Propylene glycol, Mg, Ca & Zn salts of stearic acid. 10

11. Additives Clarifying agents: solubilizing agents: ethanol, isopropanol Non-ionic solubilizer : polyethoxylated alcohols & esters. Perfumes: Herbal, fruity & floral fragrance. Preservatives: Methyl & propyl paraben, formaldehyde (most effective). 11

12. Role of ingredients… Surfactant: They are the compounds that lower the surface tension b/w two liquids or b/w a liquid and a solid. They may act as detergents, wetting agent, foaming agent & emulsifiers. Additives: Conditioning agents: They are intended to improve manageability, feel & lusture of hair. Viscosity modifier : T hey are used to improve the thickness of compounds. 12

13. Cont … Preservatives: Many synthetic products are vulnerable to microbial attack, if not preserved efficiently. Bacterial growth in shampoo can lead to breakdown of detergent i.e. resulting in discoloration of product. The simple & most effective antimicrobial agent is formaldehyde . Perfumes: There are two imp. aspects which should be ascertained before final selection of fragrance for shampoos. Fragrance must be soluble in shampoo It must be compatible with shampoo i.e. not affect the viscosity & stability. 13

14. Formulations… Liquid shampoo Sodium lauryl sulphate 40.0% Sodium chloride 2.0 - 4.0% Water (to make) 100 Perfume, colour & preservatives q.s Cream shampoo Sodium lauryl sulphate 40.0 % Cetyl alcohol 7.0% Water (to make) 100 Perfume, colour & preservatives q.s 14

15. Evaluation of Shampoos Performance characteristics Foam and foam stability Detergency and cleaning action Effect of water hardness Surface Tension and wetting Surfactant content and analysis Rinsing Conditioning action Softness Luster Lubricity Body, texture and set retention Irritation and toxicity Dandruff control Eye irritancy test Product characteristics Fragnance Colour Consistency Package 15

16. Evaluation cont.. Foam and foam stability: The Ross-Miles foam column test is accepted. 200 ml of surfactant solution is dropped into a glass column containing 50ml of the same solution. The height of the foam generated is measured immediately and again after a specified time interval, and is considered proportional to the volume . Detergency and cleaning action: Cleansing power is evaluated by the method of Barnet and Powers 5gm sample of soiled human hair is placed at 35°c in 200 cc of water containing of 1 gm of shampoo. 16

17. Evaluation cont.. The flask is shaken 50 times a minute for 4 minutes. Then washed once again with sufficient amount of water, then after filter the hair dried and weighed. The amount of soil is removed under these condition is calculated . 3. Rinsing : Skilled beauticians are employed to make comparisons on the performance of several shampoos 17

18. Evaluation cont.. 4 . Conditioning Action : Conditioning action is a difficult property to assess. This is because it is basically dependent on subjective appraisal. No method has been published for measuring conditioning action. The degree of conditioning given to hair is ultimately judged by shampoo user who is making the evaluation on the basis of past experience and present expectations. 18

19. Evaluation cont.. 5 . Viscosity: Viscosity of the liquid shampoo is determined using a Brookefield viscometer 100 mL of the shampoo is taken in a beaker and the spindle is dipped in it for about 5 min and then the reading is taken. 19

20. Toothpaste A toothpaste or dentifrice is a substance used with a toothbrush for the purpose of cleaning the accessible surfaces of the teeth . 20

21. Requirements of a toothpaste When used properly, with an efficient toothbrush, it should clean the teeth adequately , that is, remove food debris, plaque and stains. It should leave the mouth with a fresh, clean sensation. Its cost should be such as to encourage regular and frequent use by all. It should be harmless, pleasant and convenient to use. 21

22. Ingredients used in toothpastes Cleaning and polishing agents: Clearly the main purpose of the cleaning and polishing agent is to remove any adherent layer on the teeth. Calcium carbonate : Calcium carbonate is probably one of the most commonly used dental cream abrasives. Precipitated calcium carbonate (chalk ) is available with a white or off-white colour and both particle size and crystalline form can be varied, depending upon its conditions of manufacture. 22

23. Cont … Sodium bicarbonate : It is a very mild abrasive, usually used at a 5-30% level, in combination with other abrasives such as silica or calcium carbonate to achieve the required cleaning action . Surfactants: Surfactants are used in the toothpaste to aid in the penetration of the surface film on the tooth by lowering the surface tension. They also provide the secondary benefits of providing foam to suspend and remove the debris, and the subjective perception of toothpaste performance. 23

24. Cont … Sodium lauryl sulphate : Also known as sodium dodecyl sulphate i.e. currently the most widely used detergent in toothpaste because it satisfies almost all the requirements . It is a foaming & solubilizing agent that is derived from coconut and palm oil. SLS emulsifies fats, has a high affinity for protiens , and has mild antibacterial activity 24

25. Cont … Humectants: Humectants are used to prevent the paste from drying out and hardening to an unacceptable level. At the same time they give shine and some plasticity to the paste . Generally only two major humectants are considered for use in toothpaste. Some common humectants are: Glycerin: Glycerin is still the humectant used in greatest bulk quantity in toothpaste. It is one of the best humectants, producing a shiny , glossy product. It is stable, non-toxic, available from both synthetic and natural sources, and provides a useful sweetening function to the paste. 25

26. Cont … Sorbitol: Sorbitol syrup (approximately 70%) is also extensively used throughout the industry and is sometimes considered superior to glycerin depending upon the formulation. It also imparts sweetness, and is a stable humectant. Sweetening agents: These are important for product acceptance, since the final product must be neither too sweet nor too bitter. These ingredients must always be considered in partnership with the flavor because of their combined impact. 26

27. Cont … Sodium saccharin . This is the sweetening agent in widest commercial use , and is generally used at a level between 0.05% and 0.5% by weight . Flavours : Flavours are probably the most crucial part of toothpaste because of consumer preferences . They are also the most proprietary part of the formulation. Exotic flavours , although available, are generally not well liked under long-term usage conditions , since one of the primary consumer requirements of toothpaste is the perception of freshness and cleanliness after brushing conventionally , therefore, mint flavours tend to predominate. 27

28. Cont … Minor ingredients: This section is intended to cover all additional ingredients added to the paste to form either a functional or cosmetic aspect. Titanium Dioxide: Titanium dioxide may be added to give additional whiteness and brilliance to the paste. Colours : Colours can be an integral part of the aspect of any toothpaste that may influence consumer preference and purchase intent . 28

29. Cont … A small amount of colour may be added to the paste as a whole to give it a pastel shade. Equally if a translucent gel had been formulated then colour would be added to give it a different visual appearance . pH regulators: Occasionally buffering systems need to be added to the dental cream to adjust the pH of the final finished product. 29

30. Formulation of Toothpaste Ingredients Formula % (by weight) Examples Surfactant 1.0-2.0 Sodium lauryl sulphate Humectant 10-30 Glycerin, Sorbitol Gelling Agent 0.5-1.5 Hydroxy ethyl cellulose, carboxy methyl cellulose Sweetener 0.05-0.5 Sodium Saccharin Flavour 1.0-3.0 Spearmint, Menthol, Peppermint Colour <1.0 Titanium Dioxide Water to 100 30

31. C reams Creams are defined as “a semisolid dosage form containing one or more drug substances dissolved or dispersed in a suitable base.” Semisolid emulsions of either o/w or w/o type. 31

32. Ideal properties of Semi solid dosage form Physical properties Smooth texture Elegant in appearance Non dehydrating Non gritty Non greasy and non staining Non hygroscopic Physiological properties Non irritating Do not alter membrane function Miscible with skin secretion 32

33. Vanishing Creams These are also called foundation creams because they disappears when rubbed into skin. Moisturizing creams These are the creams which restore water (moisture) to the stratum corneum. Water contained in the cream is lost by evaporation when the cream is applied to the body. 33

34. Commonly used ingredients … ANTIOXIDANT - Oxygen is highly reactive atom that is capable of becoming of potentially damaging molecules commonly called “free radicals”. Free radicals are capable of attacking the healthy cells of the body, causing them to loose their structure and functions. To prevent this an anti oxidant are added . eg .- Ascorbic acid, BHT(Butylated hydroxytoluene ). BASE- It is one of the most important ingredient used in the formulation of semisolid dosage form. 34

35. Cont … Ointments and suppository base do not merely acts as the carrier of the medicaments, but they also control the extent of absorption of medicaments incorporated with them. eg . White petroleum, Lanolin, cholesterol. BUFFER - They are added in the preparation to maintain the pH eg . Citrate buffer ,phosphate buffer. CHELATING AGENTS- Chelating agents are ingredients that bind with metal ions or metallic compounds, preventing contamination or discoloration. 35

36. Role of ingredients… Chelating agents are used in creams and lotions, body washes, shampoos, conditioners, cosmetics and skin care products. Chelating Agents improve the efficacy of preservatives and antioxidants and play a crucial role in the stability and efficacy of personal skin care products . eg . Citric acid, EDTA (Ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid). HUMECTANT- Humectants are essential cosmetic ingredients which are hygroscopic in nature and absorb moisture from the air. 36

37. Cont … Humectants form hydrogen bonds with water molecules and help to retain the natural moisture of the skin. Basically, humectants are molecules with one or more hydrophilic groups attached to them.eg . Glycerin, propylene glycol, PEG. EMULSIFIERS- Emulsifiers are used in creams and lotions to mix water with oils. Since water and oil do not mix but stay separated, an additional agent (emulsifier) is necessary to form a homogenous mixture keeping water and oil together . 37

38. Cont … There are 2 types of emulsifiers. Oil-in-water (o/w) emulsifiers keep oil drops packed in water, while water-in-oil (w/o) emulsifiers keep water drops packed in oil. W/O emulsifiers are used for a fatty feel ( eg . night & sun protection creams). O/W emulsifiers are used more in moisturizing products ( eg . body lotions, day creams). eg . Monoglycerides , Sulfonates, Polyoxyethylene PERMEATION ENHANCER- Skin can acts as a barrier with the introduction of various penetration enhancers, penetration of the drug through the skin can be improved . eg . Ethanol , oleic acid, PEG 38

39. Cont … PRESERVATIVE – Some bases , although, resist microbial attack but because of their high water content, it require an anti microbial preservative.eg . Benzoic acid, phenyl ethyl alcohol, Methyl hydroxy benzoate, Propyl hydroxy benzoate GELLING AGENT- Gelling agent forms a gel dissolves in a liquid phase as a colloid mixture that forms a weakly cohesive internal structure. eg . Cellulose, pectin, gelatin, tragacanth . 39

40. Cont … FRAGRANCES- Fragrances are complex combinations of natural or man-made substances that are added to many consumer products to give them a distinctive smell. Fragrances are used in a wide variety of products to impart a pleasant odor, mask the inherent smell of some ingredients,   and enhance the experience of using the product.eg. Lavender oil, rose oil, lemon oil. 40

41. Formulation…. Vanishing cream Stearic acid 17.0% Potassium hydroxide 0.7% Glycerine 5.0% Water (to make) 100 Perfume & preservatives q.s 41

42. Formulation Moisturizing cream Stearic acid 4.0 % Mineral oil 8.0 % Lanolin 1.0 % Glyceryl monostearate 3.0 % Isopropyl myristate 2.0 % Glycerine 4.0 % Propylene glycol 4.0 % Triethanolamine 0.2 % Water (to make) 100.0 Perfume & preservative q.s 42

43. Thank you 43