Different types of twill

Rearranging a weave means taking single thread or groups of threads from the base weave and rearranging them in a different order

1. 3.2.10 Rearranged Twills
1. Concept
Rearranging a weave means taking single thread or
groups of threads from the base weave and
rearranging them in a different order. See Fig. 3.36

2. Base twill
Fig. b:
Fig. a:
Fig .a : the picks are rearranged in groups of
two in sateen
Fig .b :a different rearrangement in warp
direction in groups of two

3. 2. They are constructed as
follows:
a) Select base weave.
b) Determine a plan for rearrangement.
c) Rearrange threads: ends or picks.

4. 3. Example:

Base twill the new order of warp
threads is 7,8; 5,6; 3,4; 1,2.
Base twill rearranged twill in the given order

5. 4. Applications
Many characteristic fabrics can be made by
using rearranged twills due to its versatility.

6. 3.2.11 Shaded twill
1. Concept
 The shaded twill represents a gradual transition
from the twill with weft effect to warp effect, and
vice versa. It is used mostly in Jacquard weaving
for large-pattern fabrics. See Fig.3.37

8. Fabric sample:

9. 2. Weave drawn
Formulae to calculate the repeats:
R
o
= R
ob
(R
ob
-1 )
R
y
= R
yb

Where: R
o
---new weave repeat; R
ob
---the base
weave repeat.

10. 3.3 Satin/Sateen weaves
Derivatives
1. Reinforced sateen
It is constructed by using the original sateen
as the base and adding overlaps. See Fig. 3.38
Adding a warp float at the right of the original one

11. Example
Fig. 3.39 shows a 11/8
reinforced sateen which is
often used for worsted fabric
called satin back gabardine.
The face of the fabric has a
twill appearance and back
has a satin appearance.

12. 2. Shaded sateen
 Like the shaded twill, the shaded satin represents
a gradual transition from the sateen with weft
effect to the satin with warp effect, and vice
versa. See Fig.3.40
R
y
=R
yb
=5
R
O
=R
ob
(R
ob
-1)=5×4=20

13. 3. Rearranged sateen/satin
weaves
It can be constructed by rearranging the
sequence of the picks or varying the shift.
See Fig. 3.41, 3.42.
Obtained from varying
the shift
Shifts (S
y
)=4,3,2,2,3

14. Obtained from
rearranging the
sequence of the picks

15. Home work:
1. Base weave , the order of warp
↗
threads is 1,2, 7,8, 13,14, 5,6, 11,12, 3,4,
9,10, draw the rearranged twills.
2. draw a shaded twill from 1/3 to 3/1 .
↗ ↗

16. Chapter Three Summary:
 Derivatives of Elementary Weaves
3.1 Plain weave derivatives.
1. Rib weaves
Warp rib weaves; Weft rib weaves
2. Hopsack weaves

17. 3.2 Twill weave derivatives
1. Reinforced twill
 2. Compound twills
 3. Elongated twills
 4. Curved twills
 5. Angled twills
 6. Herringbone and broken twills
 7. Diamond and Diaper
 8. Zigzag Weaves
 9. Entwined Twills
 10. Rearranged Twills
 11. Shaded twill

18. 3.3 Satin/Sateen weaves Derivatives
1. Reinforced sateen
2. Shaded sateen
3. Rearranged sateen/satin