Rapid I ndustrialization that has created an E cological imbalance
Textiles no longer j us t fulfill the basic need for clothing; they have rather become a f ashion statement.
Rising income levels across the globe have led to M anifold increase in world’s textile P roduction and C onsumption in recent years.
This has put a strain on our already dwindling natural resources B efore A fter
Textile wet processing uses a large amounts of W ater which when discharged contains a cocktail of chemicals including unfixed residual dyes & auxiliaries that cannot be easily treated or biodegraded.
It takes 1 lb of C hemical Fertilizers to conventionally grow 3 lbs of cotton to make a t-shirt and a pair of jeans Conventionally grown cotton accounts for more than 25% of insecticide and 10% of the pesticides used in the world .
Growing enough Cotton for one T-shirt requires 257 Gallons of W ater
Scarce and non-renewable P etroleum resources are utilized in the manufacture of Synthetic fibres
Burning of F ossil fuels is done to provide energy for the various processing operations
This increases the C arbon footprints of the textiles by emitting G reenhouse gases
The use of rayon for clothing is contributing to the rapid depletion of the world’s F orests
Insufficient P rotection of work force from dust & noise during processing.
Textile Industry is thus Water, Chemical & Energy Intensive
The natural resources have only limited ability to Assimilate pollution due to their Self-purification capacity. But the increase in the economic & development activities has broken down this Self-correcting mechanism of nature.
This limitation has lead to problems in disposal and removal
According to Earth Pledge, a NPO committed to promotion & support for sustainable development
● Cotton Farming : Pesticide (lindens and hexachloro cyclohexane ) & Artificial Fertilizers ● Cotton / Wool Processing : Preservation agents like pentachlorophenol (PCP) ● Sizing : Stiffeners containing plasticizer such as tributyl / triphenyl phosphate ● Stain Removers or Scouring Assistants: chlorinated carbon. ● Souring & Bleaching : Alkyl phenol ethoxylates (APEOs) such as nonyl phenol ethoxylates and octyl phenol ethoxylates used as wetting agents and detergents. ● Bleaching: Potassium dichromate, sodium hydroxide, peroxide, sodium hypochlorite. ● Brightening Agents / Optical Brighteners ● Dyeing : Azo dyes, dyes containing traces of heavy metals (Fe, Cu, Pb , etc), glauber’s , common salt for dyeing of cellulosics , carriers for dyeing of PET and formaldehyde in dispersing agents & colorant fixatives ● Printing : Solvents used in printing pastes release VOC (volatile organic compounds), dispersing agents and fixer/binder containing formaldehyde, PVC and phthalates in plastisol printing pastes. ● Finishing : Easy care finishes using formaldehyde, functional finishing using bromine / antimony-based chemicals, flame retardant, stain removals containing chlorinated products. ● Packaging: Wooden boxes treated with insecticides. Common E ffluents from the Textile Industry
The toxic non-biodegradable chemicals are difficult to remove and can enter the food chain.
W ater is used in large quantities as a solvent for processing chemicals and as a washing & rinsing medium and thus a large amount of effluent with high BOD and COD values is generated
Textile Industry in China accounts for nearly 54% of the world’s total Textile Production and discharges over 2.5 billion tons of Wastewater every year The ‘Dirty Laundry’ report published by Greenpeace International highlighted this issue
● Various Allerges ● Dermatitis ● Anemia, reduction in RBC and haemoglobin ● Cyanosis (deprivation of the availability of oxygen to the blood) ● Haemoerrhagic disease of various organs (reduction in the platelet count) ● Anilism also known as meth- haemoglobinaemia ● Hepatotoxic effects (jaundice & loss of liver function). ● Nephrotoxic effects (injury to the kidneys) ● Neurosis ● Asthma ● Pulmonary ( puemoconiosis ) effects ● Lukaemia ● Cancer ( tumours of the urinary bladder). Health Problems Related to the Textile Industry
Environmental Protection & Clean Technologies is a Universal Concern Today
In 1987, the Danish Company, NOVOTEX A/S was the first to introduce an eco-collection, ‘ Green Cotton ’ for which they were awarded the Environment Prize by the ECC.
Any textile product, which is Produced in eco-friendly manner and Processed under eco-friendly environment is known as Eco-Textiles
Eco-Textiles is also known as ● Sustainable Fashion ● Eco Fashion ● Eco-tech
● Made from a Renewable Resource ● Have a Good Ecological Footprint ● N ot Use Any (or Little) Chemicals while Growing & Processing For a textile to be sustainable, it should:
● P rocurement of raw materials does not create a negative impact on land & water resources (natural fibres ), or the adversely impact the fossil fuels resources (synthetic fibres ). ● Production considerations do not create adverse impact on sources of water and energy. ● Added chemicals do not affect the health of textile workers as well as consumers. ● The end-of-life of the textile product is smooth (biodegradable) and it allows reclamation of the infrastructure required to sustain further production. Factors that a sustainable textiles must fulfill:
A sustainable textile is one that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generation to meet their needs and desires Definition of Sustainability recommended by the World Commission on Environment & Development “ ”
HOW CAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY GO GREEN? Using Renewable Resources that can be replenished easily and in a short time. 1
Following Fair Trade Practices 2 HOW CAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY GO GREEN?
Reducing Ecological Footprint or demand on natural resources like land & water. 3 Ecological footprint (EF) is a measure for the amount of productive land, sea (water) and natural resources one needs to produce the resources it consumes and to dispose of its waste. It is the measure of human demand on the Earth’s ecosystems HOW CAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY GO GREEN?
Reducing the Carbon Footprint by reducing/substituting chemicals required to grow/process the textile material. 4 A Carbon Footprint is measured in carbon dioxide equivalents and gives the total amount of greenhouse gases emitted. HOW CAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY GO GREEN?
Going Organic Using Sustainable Processing Methods Recycling / Upcycling Chemical Substitution Chemcal Recovery Process Modification HOW CARBON FOOTPRINT CAN BE REDUCED? 1 2 3 a b c
Organic clothing is clothing made from materials raised or grown in compliance with organic agricultural standards - Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) GOING ORGANIC Reducing Carbon Footprint 1
● Comprises of minimum of 70% organic fibers . ● Fibres made through environmentally & socially responsible manufacturing . ● All chemical & auxiliaries used meet environmental & toxicological criteria . ● Dyes are either natural or are environmentally low impact dyes . ● Heavy metals or harmful chemicals have not been used in the dyeing. ● Accessories selected is in accordance with ecological aspects. ● A functional waste water treatment plant is involved in all wet-processing. ● All processes have complied with minimum social criteria & fair trade practices .
BENEFITS OF ORGANIC TEXTILES Grow without any pesticides or chemical fertilizers and so have no impact on marine and aquatic life Biodegrade naturally over time Breathable fibers Added softness and drape Hypoallergenic Naturally antibacterial Helps to improve land , prevents water contamination and conserves bio-diversity
ORGANIC COTTON Highly Absorbent Non-Irritant Non-Allergic Without Pesticide / Fertilized No Health Hazard Fair Trade Free for Allergies Produced as per IVN BEST Guidelines Durable
ORGANIC WOOL Durable Absorbent More Elastic
OTHER ECO-FRIENDLY FIBRES
JUTE Silky Texture High Tensile Strength Heat & Flame Resistant
FLAX Cool & Dry to Touch Absorbent & Release Water Quickly Softer on Washing
RAMIE Wrinkle Resistant 8 times Stronger than Cotton Resistant to Microbial Attack Harvested up to 6 Times in a Year Without the use of Pesticides or Herbicides
BAMBOO Silky Feel & Good Drape Wicks Moisture Resistant to Microbes
NETTLE Longest Bast Fibre High Tensile Strength Hollow -Natural Insulation Obtained from Brennessel Plant
PINEAPPLE Silky & High Luster High Tensile Strength Low Elongation
BANANA Absorbent High Tensile Strength Light Weight
NATURAL DYES? Natural dyes are colorants or pigments that are obtained from plant, animal or mineral sources with or without any chemical treatments Plant Sources Animal Sources Mineral Sources
Flowers TANSY DAHLIA CORAL JASMINE GOLDEN RODS FRENCH MARIGOLD HIBISCUS TESU GULMOHAR
Fruits and Berries MYROBOLAN POMEGRANATE ONION WALNUT ALMOND ANNATTO
Animal Origin TYRIAN PURPLE
Animal Origin KERMES COCHINEAL LAC
Animal Origin LITCHENS WEILD & MUSHROOMS
MINERAL Origin Orpimat Red Oxide Malachite Cinnabar Carbon Black
Herbal powder, vegetable powder, parsley vegetable powder, rosemary vegetable powder, brown mica oxide powder, yellow mica oxide powder MINERAL Origin
HISTORY OF NATURAL DYES In Egypt, mummies have been found wrapped in madder dyed cloth.
HISTORY OF NATURAL DYES It is well known that the green eye-shadow was also used by the Egyptian women and it came from lead, oxidized copper, ochre, ash, malachite, and chrysocolla (a blue-green copper ore) .
HISTORY OF NATURAL DYES It is well known that Egyptian women lined their eyes and eyebrows with Khol that is a dark-colored powder made of crushed antimony, burnt almonds, lead or any combination thereof Woman would apply khol, a black dye kept in a jar or pot, to line her eyes and eyebrows, using an "brush" or "pencil" made of a reed
HISTORY OF NATURAL DYES It is well known that the lipstick used by Cleopatra , the famous Egyptian queen came from the bixa tree.
ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES Obtained from Agro Renewable Resources are biodegradable.
Application of natural dyes has potential to earn carbon credit by reducing consumption of fossil fuel (petroleum) based synthetic dyes . ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES Carbon Credit is a permit that allows the holder to emit one ton of carbon dioxide. Credits are awarded to countries or groups that have reduced their green house gases below their emission quota. Carbon credits can be traded in the international market at their current market price. One carbon credit = one metric tonn of CO 2 / CO 2 equivalent gases Example -, if an environmentalist group plants enough trees to reduce emissions by one ton, the group will be awarded a credit. If a steel producer has an emissions quota of 10 tons, but is expecting to produce 11 tons, it could purchase this carbon credit from the environmental group.
ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES Some of its constituents are anti-allergens and safe for body contact
ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES Bleed but do not stain other fabrics, turmeric being an exception
ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES Natural Dyes from Agricultural Waste Waste rests of eucalyptus, aguaribay trees, sunflower seed shells, parsley, olive, laurel, and lemon trees Since only the leaves of the tobacco plants are harvested, stalks and other agricultural waste are transformed into vibrant, non-toxic dye
ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES Does not pollute as the synthetic dyes The Jian River flows red after being polluted with dye from an illegal workshop
The dye waste may become an ideal fertilizer for agricultural fields ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES Indigo waste used to irrigate the tomatoes The waste water pH it’s good for water lily plantation Waste from barks / leafs used in dyeing in Bali
ECO-FRIENDLY FABRICS
The Sanskrit word, ‘ ayur ’ means life and ‘ vastra ’ means cloth or dress. It is based on the Ayurvedic Principles of Medicine which believes that regular contact with cloth made from yarns infused with extracts of organic herbs and medicinal plants will cure metabolic disorders & promote healthy living
These herbal clothing ● Helps to restore balance within the body's systems ● Strengthens the immune system ● Helps in reducing the spread of diseases ● E xhibits anti-microbial & anti-bacterial properties
These herbal textiles are often used in making ● Garments used close to the skin ● Undergarments ● Towels ● Sleepwear ● Bed Coverings ● Mattresses ● Coir Mats ● Door Mats ● Carpets
The most effective time to wear Ayurvedic clothing is when the body is at rest – Sleep & Relaxation / Meditation
Ayurvastra are made from fibres like certified organic cotton, natural cotton, silk wool, coir, linen, jute, hemp, bamboo and their blends.
More than 200 herbs extracts can be mixed in the dye-bath while dyeing fabrics; hence they play a dual role in providing magical healing quality and imparting soothing colours
● Diabetes can be controlled by a combination of the herbal dye ● S affron is believed to control Heart Diseases ● Fenugreek is said to control Cholesterol ● Fabrics dyed with curry leaves extract are beneficial in curing Arthritis ● Sandalwood, turmeric, aloevera , onion, chirayata & neem dyed fabrics can cure Skin Diseases ● Brazil wood, henna and Indian mulberry can be used as Blood Purifier ● Indian madder helps in Removing Blood Impurities ● Haritaki and indigo can be used for their Antiseptic Properties ● Amla can be used for its Anti-fungal, Anti-bacterial & Anti-septic Properties ● Chitosan , which show Antimicrobial Properties ● Castor oil helps in Maintaining Body Temperature