Emollient and rheological additives

The presentation contains brief explanation about the Emollients, its types with detailed examples. Brief classification of Rheological additives is also presented along with the applications in cosmeceuticals.

1. GUIDEDBY:
MsAnkitaPatel
MsBijalPrajapati
Dept.ofPharmaceutics,
ParulInstituteofPharmacy
PREPARED BY:
PriyaMathuria
M.Pharm

2. CONTENTS
•Emollient
Introduction
Typesofemollient
Agentsusedinemollient
Skinreaction
Safetymeasures
•Rheologicaladditives
Introduction
Classification
Application
2

3. EMOLLIENT
•Emollientsaremedicalmoisturising
treatmentsapplieddirectlytotheskinto
sootheandhydrateit.
•Theycovertheskinwithaprotectivefilm
totrapinmoisture.
3
REFERED: http://www.ouh.nhs.uk/patientguide/leaflets/files/120521emollients.pdf

4. 4
REFERED: https://www.google.co.in/search?biw=1366&bih=693&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=U-
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5. •Emollientsareoftenusedtohelpmanagedry,
itchyorscalyskinconditionssuchaseczema,
psoriasisandichthyosis.
•Theyhelppreventpatchesofinflammationand
flare-upsoftheseconditions.
•Theyhelptorepairthedamagednaturalbarrier
oftheskin,alsoprotectfromirritationand
infectionsandcanreduceredness,swellingand
itching.
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6. TYPES OF EMOLLIENTS
•Emollients are available as:
CREAMS
SOAP SUBSTITUTES
OINTMENTS
LOTIONS
BATH ADDITIVES
SPRAY
6
REFERED : https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/emollients/#types-of-
emollients

7. CREAMS
•These are not particularly greasy.
•They are absorbed quite quickly so do not stain clothes.
•They are good for daytime use.
•Examples:Diprobase cream Cetraben
Hydromol cream E45 cream
Oilatum cream Doublebase
Aveeno cream
Containing antibacterial: Dermol 500
Containing urea: Calmurid Hydromol extra
•Examples for shower(cleansing): Dermol shower, E45 Shower
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8. SOAP SUBSTITUTES
•Soapdriestheskinandcanmakeititchy.Usesoap
substitutesforallwashing.Thesecleansetheskin
effectivelyBUTdonotlatherlikesoap.
•Manycreamsandointmentsmaybeusedassoap
substitutes.
•Examples:
Cetraben Diprobasecream
WashE45 Emulsifyingointment
Hydromolointment Epaderm.
Dermol500(whichcontainsantibacterial)
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9. OINTMENTS
•Thesearegreasyandareparticularlyusefulforverydryoritchy
skinbecausetheyhydratetheskinbetterthancreams.
•Theydotakelongertobeabsorbedandmaymakeyourclothes
greasy.
•Somepeopleprefertousetheseatnight.
•Examples:
50%whitesoftparaffininliquidparaffin(50/50mix)
Epaderm
Hydromol
Emulsifyingointment
WARNING:Skinproductscontainingwhitesoftparaffinand
emulsifyingointmentareeasilyignitedwithanakedflameora
cigarette.
9

10. LOTIONS
•They are good for hairy or damaged areas of skin
(such as weeping eczema)
•They are thin and can spread easily
•But they're not very moisturising
•Example: Dermocalm lotion
10

11. BATH ADDITIVES
•Bubbles(likesoap)canirritateanddryskin.Emollient
bathadditivesshouldbeaddedtothebathwatertohelp
tomoisturiseyourskinandleaveafinefilmonskinafter
bathing.
•TAKECAREastheywillmakethebathslippery.
•Examples:
Oilatum BathE45
Balneum Hydromol
Diprobath Aveenobathoil
Withantimicrobials:Oilatumplus(withantimicrobial)
Dermol600
11

12. SPRAY
•They are good for hard-to-reach areas
•They are also used for sore or infected skin that
shouldn't be touched
•They are quickly absorbed
•Example:Emollin 50:50 spray: A spray formulation
easier to apply
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13. AGENTS USED IN EMOLLIENTS
Lanolinanditsderivatives
•Lanolinisanautralwax
•Ithelpstomaintaintheepidermisinanormal
condition
•Itshydrophobicandadhesivecharactermakesit
anexcellentocclusiveagentandagoodemollient
•Lanolinderivativesare
oLanolinalcohol
oModifiedlanolins:Liquidlanolins
Esterifiedlanolinalcohol
Acetylatedlanolinalcohol
Polyoxyalkylenelanolins
13
REFERED: M .Vimaladevi : Textbook of Cosmetics; CBS Publishers &
Distributors; Page no. 31-38

14. STEROLS
•Cholesterolistheonlysterolused
•Itlessentheirritatinganddefattingactionof
emollient
•Ithelpsemollienttopenetrateintotheepidermis
andimpartsupplenesstoskin
PHOSPHOLIPIDS
•Theyarecomplexfatsolublesubstance
•Theyactasanemollient
•Example:Lecitin,excellentemulsifier,emollientas
wellassurfactant
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15. FATTYACID
•Stearicacidistheonlyoneofchoice
•Itshelpstoretainconsistencyoftheendproduct
FATTYACIDESTERS
•Theyleaveathinoilyfilmontheskinwhichisgreasy
becauseoftheiroilyandlowviscocitycharacteristic
•Example:Butylstearate,isopropylstearate,
Isopropylpalmitate,polyesters(likeglyceryl-
monostearate)
FATTYALCOHOLS
•Theyproduceocclusivefilmsthathelptoinduce
hydrationofskin
•Example:Cetylandstearylalcohols
15

16. SKIN REACTIONS
Emollientscansometimescauseaskinreaction,suchas:
•Anoverheating,burningsensationorstingingthat
doesn'tsettleafterafewdaysoftreatment–usually
causedbyareactiontoacertainingredientcontainedin
theemollient
•Blockedorinflamedhairfollicles(folliculitis)thatmay
causeboilsrashesonthefacethatcanaggravateacne
•Ifyouexperienceanyofthesesymptoms,talktoyour
doctor,nurseorpharmacist.
16
REFERED: https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/emollients/#types-of-
emollients

17. SAFETY MEASURES
Followthisgeneralsafetyadvicewhenusingemollients:
•Keepawayfromfire,flamesandcigaretteswhenusingparaffin-
basedemollients.Dressingsandclothingsoakedwiththeointmentcanbe
easilyignited.
•Useacleanspoonorspatulatoremoveemollientsfromapotor
tub.Thisreducestheriskofinfectionsfromcontaminatedpots.
•Takecareofslippingwhenusingemollientsinabathorshower,
oronatiledfloor.Protectthefloorwithanon-slipmat,towelorsheet.
Wearingprotectivegloves,washyourbathorshowerafterwithhotwater
andwashingupliquid,thendrywithakitchentowel.
•Neverusemorethantherecommended amountofbathadditive.
Itmaycauseskinirritationiftheconcentrationistoohigh,particularly
whenusedwithantisepticbathoils.
•Becarefulofusingaqueouscream.Itcancauseburning,stinging,
itchingandrednessforsomepeople,especiallychildrenwithatopiceczema.
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18. 18
TAKEN FROM: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdNPiW4ZULk

19. •Rheologyisthescienceofflow.
•Everytimealotionispoured,acreamsqueezed
fromatubeoralipstickapplied,rheologyis
involved.
•Evenwhenproductsareatrest,itplaysan
importantpartincontrollingstabilityand
suspension.
•Understandingaformulation’srheologicalneeds
enablestocreatethebestpossibleproducts
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20. •The rheology of a system is described in terms of
its viscosity
•Viscosity is the resistance to flow and defined as
the force applied by the resulting rate
•Shear stress is the force per unit area applied
and shear rate is the resulting velocity gradient
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21. •Amaterialwhichmaintainsaconstantviscosity,regardlessof
shearrate,hasNewtonianflow(Fig.2).Dilatantflow(Fig.2)isa
formwhereviscosityincreaseswithshear,sometimes
encounteredinhighlypigmented/filledsystems.
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22. •Therateofrecoveryofasystemwhenstressisremoved
isalsoveryimportant.Whenashearthinningsystem
showsdelayedviscosityrecovery,itisdescribedas
thixotropic(Fig.3).
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23. •Pseudoplasticflow(Fig.4),alsoknownasshearthinning
behaviour,andtypicalofmanycommercialsystems,is
whenviscositydecreaseswithincreasingshearrate.
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24. •Cosmeticsexperienceshearratesvaryingfrom0.001s-1,
fromgravitationalforces;toover20,000s-1,whenacream
isspreadoranaerosolantiperspirantsprayed(Fig1)
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25. ELEMENTIS Specialties Rheological
Additives for Cosmetics
•ELEMENTISSpecialtiesrheologicaladditivescanbe
broadlydividedbetweenaqueous-phasethickeners
andnon-aqueous-phasethickeners.
•Butitisimportanttoremembertheadvantagesofoil-
phaseviscositymodificationthatcangreatlyimprove
emulsionbasedproducts.
•ELEMENTISSpecialtiesadditivesforcosmeticsare
basedonnaturallyoccurringmaterials:highlyrefined
andbeneficiatedhectoriteclayorcastoroilderivative
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26. 1. Aqueous-phase thickeners
RheoluxeAssociative Thickeners
•The Rheoluxefamily of rheology modifiers are non-ionic
polymeric thickeners designed specifically for the personal
care market.
•Rheoluxeconsists of urethane based and Polyether Polyol
based associative thickeners with superior performance in
difficult systems such as those containing high salt levels or
with extremes in pH.
•Due to its structure, Rheoluxeis soluble in water, but
associates with lipophilic materials to build viscosity.
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27. Associativethickeners–mechanismofaction
•Associativethickenersincreasetheviscosityof
aqueoussystemsthroughasystemofmolecular
associationsandinteractions.
•Thethickenersconsistofwatersolublepolymeric
chainsmodifiedwithhydrophobiccaps.
•Thehydrophobiccapsofthepolymerassociate,
thatisbuildastructurednetworkwithother
hydrophobesintheformula.
•Thisresultsinmicelletypestructuresthatforma
networkresultinginsignificantviscositybuild.
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28. 28

29. •TheRheoluxerangeofproductsprovidesviscositycontrol
inalltypesofemulsionsystems,creatinganexceptional
sensoryprofile.
•Suppliedaseasytohandlesolutions,Rheoluxecanbe
addedatanypointintheproductionprocess.
•Rheoluxeisheatstable,althoughcoldprocesssystemsare
possible
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30. HECTORITE
•Hectoriteisauniqueswellingclayoffering
severaladvantages.hectorite’sspecial
properties,comparedwithbentonite,are:
•lowerironcontent
•lightercolour
•higherswellingcapacity
•greatergelstrength
•nocrystallinesilica
•Duetoitssmallsize,plateletshapeandlarge
surfacearea,hectoriteisabletoformstrong,
stableviscousgels.
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31. BENTONE hydrophilic Clays
•BENTONE MA, EW, and LT rheological
additives provide thixotropy and suspension
control to the aqueous phase.
•BENTONE MA and EW additives form gels by
producing an open, 3-dimensional network of
the individual clay platelets as shown in Figure5
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32. •BENTONE LT forms a similar network, but it is
strengthened by the presence of a special
cellulose, greatly enhancing stability and
thickening characteristics.
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33. 2.Non-Aqueous-Phase Additives
•Surfactantscaninfluencetherheologicalbehaviourof
hydrophilicclays.
oNon-ionicsurfactants,iftheyarehighlyethoxylated,canadsorb
ontotheclaysurface.Thisrarelycausesproblemseitherinflow
controloractivityoftheformulation.
oAnionicsurfactantscanactasdispersingagentsandweakenthe
gelstructure.Alternativesthateliminateorminimiseany
problemscannormallybefound.
oCationicsurfactantsinteractstronglyandshouldbeavoided.
•Organicandsilicone-basedliquidsusedinoilandwax-based
cosmetics,andasthenon-aqueous-phaseinemulsions,benefit
greatlyfromELEMENTISSpecialtiesrheologicaladditives.
•Outstandingrheologicalpropertiesaredevelopedusing
BENTONEorganoclayrheologicaladditivesintheirpowder
formor,evenbetter,withBENTONEGELadditives,their
predispersedforms.
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34. •ADVANTAGES
•thermostableviscositycontrol
•thixotropicflow
•suspensioncontrolofpigmentsandactives
•emulsionstabilisation
•silkyskinfeel
BENTONE organophilicClays
•Hectoriteisnowreactedwithspecialvegetable
quaternaryammoniumsaltstoproduceorganoclays
abletothickenandgelorganicliquids.
•ThecorrectchoiceofBENTONE additiveis
determinedlargelybythepolarityofthesystemto
bethickened.
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35. •BENTONE organoclays
formthixotropicgelsby
developing hydrogen
bondbridgesbetweenthe
edgesofadjacentplatelets
asshowninFigure
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36. BENTONE GEL
•BENTONEGELadditivesareoptimallydispersedandactivated
predispersionsofELEMENTISSpecialtiesorganoclays.
•Benefitsinclude:
•optimallydispersed
•high-sheardispersionnotnecessary
•nopolaractivationrequired
•easytohandleanduse
•canbeaddedatanyappropriateandconvenientstagein
manufacture
•Awiderangeofgelsmadefromvariouscosmeticsoils,estersand
solventsareavailable.
•TheuseofaBENTONEGELenablestoachievethemaximum
efficiencyfromtheorganoclaywithouttheneedforcareful
shearingandactivation.
•Ontheproductionscale,timeissavedandthehighestdegreeof
reproducibilityattained,leadingtopotentialcostsavings.
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37. ThixcinRRheologicalAdditive
•Forthehighestdegreeofthixotropyinaliphatic
liquids,ThixcinRadditiveistheproducttouse.
•Inadditiontoitseffectiverheologicalproperties,it
giveswaterrepellence,stabilisesemulsionsandacts
asastiffeningagentinlipsticksandointments.
•Itcanalsobeusedasadrybinderinpressedpowder
systems.
•Itisacastoroilderivative.
•Itrequirestemperature-controlledactivationwithin
therange55-60°C(130-140°F)andhigh-shear
mixingtodevelopitsfullstructure.
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38. APPLICATION
•Stickproducts(lipstickandantiperspirant)
•maintainhomogeneityinmoltenandsetting
stages
•gainimprovedpay-out
•increasehigh-temperatureintegrity
•eliminateoilmigration
•reduce“creasing”aroundlipsandeyes
•Mascara
•improvefilm-build
•increasewater-resistance
•eliminateoilmigration
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39. •Emulsions
•elevatedrop-pointtemperatureofwater-in-oil
creams
•eliminatesyneresis
•improveemulsionstability
•enablecold-processemulsification
•createnovelviscosityeffects
•UVSunscreen
•eliminateultrafineTi02skin-whitening
problems
•enhancesunprotectionfactor(SPF)
•optimiseuseofsunscreenactives
•reduceseparationandsettlement
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40. •Antiperspirantsaerosols
•uniformdistributionofactiveingredients
•softanddryskinfeel
•significantlesswhitening
•reducedseparationandsettlement
40
REFERED:
http://www.elementisspecialties.com/esweb/webprodliterature.nsf/allbydo
cid/3BCB996F45DEBB93852575FB004C77BA/$FILE/Rheology%20cosmet
ics%20brochure%20Dec-2013.pdf