Fabric weave

The different weave of woven and knits in detail, end uses and defects

1. DIFFERENT WEAVES OF WOVEN AND KNIT AND VARIOUS DEFECTS SUBMITTED BY: ARPITA TRIPATHY TULASI KUMAR NANDA

2. BASIC STRUCTURE OF WEAVE

3. FABRICS MADE OUT OF PLAIN WEAVE

4. FABRICS MADE OUT OF TWILL WEAVE

5. FABRICS MADE OUT OF SATIN WEAVE

6. SPECIAL TYPES OF WEAVE

7. RIB WEAVE CONSTRUCTION Rib is a basic weave which produces ribs on the fabric. It is a variation of plain weave. The construction follows the same basics of plain weave i.e., weft yarns going under and over the warp yarn. Normally one heavy weight yarn is used either as warp or weft.

8. PROPERTIES SOFT IN NATURE COMFORTABLE TO WEAR ONLY STRETCHES ON THE BIAS VERSATILE FLEXIBLE LUSTUROUS FRAYS EASILY HIGHLY DURABLE CAN BE MADE WATER RESISTANT CREASE RESISTANT SMOOTH THIN

9. LENO WEAVE CONSTRUCTION A leno weave is created by twisting two yarns together for the warp yarns. These yarns create a helix-like structure. The weft yarns are interwoven through the holes created in the twisted warp yarns. This is done using a special loom attachment called a ‘Doup’ and this means that the interwoven warp and weft yarns are locked in place.

10. RAW MATERIALS Leno weave fabrics can be made using many different fibres although one of the most common is silk

11. PILE WEAVE CONSTRUCTION This kind of weave is produced with an extra set of yarns(warp or filling) known as pile yarns. This means the fabric have a regular warp yarn and a extra set of yarn known as filling yarns. There are 2 types of Pile weave The warp pile fabric The filling pile fabric. If the pile yarns are cut it is known as cut pile and if not cut it is known as un cut pile fabric.

12. RAW MATERIAL Many fibres can be used in creating a pile weave, such as cotton, silk and wool. Synthetic fibres can also be used nowadays to create fabrics with different properties.

13. SATIN WEAVE CONSTRUCTION The warp yarns are evenly spaced across the loom and anchored at either end. Instead of the basic way the weft is usually taken over one warp yarn and under the next, in Satin weave it is passed over several and then under just one to anchor the weave. These long stretches of weft yarns are called ‘Floats.’ It is these floats that make the surface of the fabric so lustrous

14. RAW MATERIAL Silk yarns, Viscose yarns and synthetic yarns(mostly lustrous yarn)

15. OXFORD/ MATT/ BASKET WEAVE CONSTRUCTION It is actually a variation of the Basket weave and uses a colored weft and a white warp. This creates a subtle basket effect with white overtones. This weave can be created using many different yarns in various weights and thicknesses.

16. RAW MATERIAL Oxford weave was made using primarily cotton, but nowadays many other fibres are used including Polyester, Viscose and other synthetic fibres.

17. KNITS

18. RIB STITCH CONSTRUCTION Rib-knit fabrics have alternating lengthwise rows of plain and purl stitches constructed so that face and back of the fabric appear alike. One set of needles is placed vertically in a cylinder and the other set of needle is placed horizontally on a dial. In both machines one set of needles pull the loop to the front and the other set pulls the loop to the back of the fabric. Each set of needles alternately draws loops in its own direction, depending upon the width of the rib desired. Rib stitches can be 1X1, 2X2, 2X1, 3X1 etc.

19. RAW MATERIALS WOOL COTTON ACRYLIC ETC .

20. INTERLOCK It is a variation of rib stitch. It resembles two separate 1X1 rib fabric interknitted.

21. RAW MATERIAL USED WOOL, COTTON, ACRYLIC etc.,

22. PURL KNIT CONSTRUCTION Known as link and link stitch It is made by flat bed and circular bed machines by using needles using hooks on both ends to alternately draw loops to the front of the fabric in one course and to the back in the next course It is a costly and also slow technique

23. RAW MATERIAL USED WOOL, COTTON, ACRYLIC

24. TRICOT KNIT CONSTRUCTION The machine is has one or more warp beams mounted above it. Each set of the yarn from a warp beam is fed to a row of needles arranged across the width of the machine and is controlled by a yarn guide set up in a guide bar that is laid across the machine.

25. RAW MATERIAL USED WOOL, COTTON, ACRYLIC, POLYESTER ETC

26. RASCHEL KNIT MANUFACTURING The raschel knit is made with latched needles rather then the bearded type used for tricot, Milanese and simplex. Raschel is made up of heavy yarns

27. RAW MATERIAL USED : Wool, acrylic, cotton etc.

28. Printing Defects

29. Dyeing Defects

30. Weaving Defects

31. Other Weaving defects

32. Yarn Defects

33. Woven Fabric Defects

34. Knitted Fabric defects

35. REFERENCES Textile: Fibre To Fabric Author- Corbman Fabric science 9 th edition Author-Joseph James Pizzuto Textile leaner BlogSpot