Formulation challenges in herbal cosmetics

Formulation Challenges of herbal cosmetics

1. challenges in Herbal Cosmetics Foram Machhar Mpharm Sem-2 Roll no. 05 Department of Pharmaceutics

2. Introduction Cosmeceutical products are those poised on the gap between cosmetic products that simply cleanse and beautify and pharmaceuticals that cure and heal .

3. Cosmeceuticals includes: ( i) beauty supplements like dietary supplements (capsules, tinctures); ( ii) active cosmetics, which contain “active” ingredients ; (iii) bioactive cosmetics, which contain “bioactive” ingredients; ( iv) Performance cosmetics cosmetics ;

4. (v) phytocosmetics, which are made with natural ingredients from plants; (vi) functional cosmetics, which perform a function beyond the cosmetic; (vii) dermaceuticals; (viii) skinceuticals; (ix) cosmetic drugs; and (x) therapeutic cosmetics.

5. Herbs have been used to maintain and enhance human beauty because they have a lot of functional properties . Herbal products are well researched and tested for mildness, efficacy, biodegradability, low toxicity, cleansing ability, emulsification, moisturization, skin appearance , feel, fragrance, and lubrication.

6. Application of herbs in cosmetic product Botanical extracts are multifunctional in nature because they possess various properties : photoprotection , antiaging , moisturizing, antioxidant, astringent , Antiirritant antimicrobial activity, which are correlated with each other.

7. Exposure of skin to sunlight and other atmospheric conditions causes production of reactive oxygen species, which can react with DNA, proteins, and fatty acids, causing oxidative damage and impairment of antioxidant system. Such injuries damage regulation pathways of skin and lead to photoaging and skin cancer development

8. The effects of aging include wrinkles , roughness , appearance of fine lines, lack of elasticity, and de- or hyperpigmentation marks. Herbal extracts act on these areas and produce healing, softening, rejuvenating, and sunscreen effects As an active ingredient in herbal cosmetics, there are some phytoconstituents and herbal extracts can be used.

9. The active ingredient of the herbal formulations may be available in the crude powder form or phytoconstituent . The crude drug powders can be water soluble ,water insoluble, fibrous or poorly wettable , the phytoconstituents may be in the form o f concentrated extract, resinous, soluble powder or liquid extract. There are various challenges to be addressed for the phytoconstituents due to some properties it possess.

10. Various drawbacks are identified based on the properties of phytoconstituents and thus combat against it, novel herbal drug delivery system is developed. Several polyphenols have been formulated into that could solubilize, stabilize or increase their bioavailability . Examples include the following: self-emulsifying delivery systems, lipid nanocapsules , nanoemulsion or liposomes. All formulations appear to improve the solubility of the various polyphenols e.g ., resveratrol, quercetin , curcumin , and epigallocatechin gallate . Essential oil is blend of variety of volatile molecules terpenoids , phenol-derived aromatic components and aliphatic component. Thus they are highly volatile and face the challenge of unstability . Nanocapsulation can be done for their capability of decreasing volatility, improving stability, water solubility and efficacy of essential oil-based formulations. Several other phytoconstituents and their novel herbal delivery is shown in the following tables.  

11. Phytoconstituents used: Category of Phytoconstituents Examples of phytoconstituents Nature Phytosterols Campsterol , stigmasterol , betasitosterol , soyasterols Lipophilic Volatile oils Jojoba oil, citronella oil, thyme oil, lavender oil Liphophilic Carbohydrates Gums, sugar esters Hydrophilic Glycosides Glycyrrhizin, aloe vera ( anthraquinone glycosides) Lipophilic Tannins Hamamelitin Lipophilic Lipids Castor oil Lipohilic Polyphenols Epicatechins Hydrophilic Vitamins Retinoids Hydrophilic Alpha tocopherol Ascorbic acid Hydrophilic Lipophilic Hydrophilic

12. Formulation challenges for Antioxidants and photoprotective Herbal ingredients Challenge Approaches Vitamin C and E Non polar Prone to oxidation and therefore unstable Microemulsions Polyphenols curcumin , silymarin , resveratrol,, genistein , pomegranate fruit extract High enough drug concentration for system Low poor solubility, poor absorption, rapid metabolism thus, low oral bioavailability Emulsion,SEDDS , transferosome gels. Lipid nanocapsules ultrasound technology. Phytosome Solid lipid nanoparticles, Liposphere ginkgo Poor permeation phytosome • Counteracts the harmful effects of reactive oxygen species and other free radicals • Reduces erythema, sunburn cells, and immunosuppression caused by sunlight and DNA adduct formation

13. Formulation challenges for Antaging cosmetics Herbal ingredients Challenges Approach tetrahydrocurcuminoids Poor water and plasma solubiliy Liposomes, phytosomes , nanoemulsion Alpha Lipoic acid Chemically labile, degraded easily and thus unpleasant odour Encapsulated into solid lipid nanoparticles Oleanolic extract Waxy, viscous Transferosomes , microemulsion Centella Poorly absorbed ( large molecular size), Poor lipid solubility, poor membrane permeation, reduced bioavailability. Nanoemulsions , Phytosomes , Transferosome • Stimulates normal skin growth and cellular growth and repair • Repairs the loss in tone and elasticity of the skin • Reverses the chemical changes that occur in collagen with aging and normalizes the immune system

14. Formulation challenges for Moisturizer Herbal ingredients Challenges Approaches Retinoids Unstable, non polar, poor permeation Microemulsion , Aloe vera Waxy, Poorly absorbed ( large molecular size), Poor lipid solubility, poor membrane permeation, reduced bioavailability. Transferosome gel, Nanoemulsions , Phytosomes , • Causes excretion of cytokinins , which induces edema , vasodilation, and frank inflammation • Makes stratum corneum softer • Fills spaces between the layers and reduces fine lines

15. Formulation challenges for Anti irritant and Anti-inflammatory Herbal Ingredients Challenges Approaches Corriander seed oil Highly volatile, unstable. Nanocapsulation Solid Lipid Nanoparticles Bisabolol Highly viscous Phytosomes , transfersomes . Inhibits the release of histamine and relieves irritation

16. Formulation challenges for Anti irritant and Anti-inflammatory Herbal Ingredients Challenges Approaches Cucumber Volatile Emulsion, transfersome • Cools, refreshes, and tightens the pores of skin • Controls oily skin and lowers the pH of the face after cleansing

17. Marketed Products Product name Effect Active ingredients Liposome Whitening 2% Citrus extracts Phytosome Antioxidant Silybin extracts Liposphere Antioxidant Sunflower, vitamin E and A, agar white Nanoparticle Antiacne Vitamin E Nanocapsule Sunscreens Vitamins Pearlescent beads Moisturizing Mineral oil, aloe vera , gelatin , red Nanosomes Antiaging , Ginseng, alpha bisabolol vitamin A and E

18. Other challenges faced : Natural: There are different types of natural; natural, natural identical, semi natural, naturally derived. Thus consumers want it, but no technical understanding.

19. Technical Challenges (Raw materials) •Shorter shelf life • Different sensorial performance • Natural is not always safe (for example Aloin in aloe vera ) • Quality, freshness, storage conditions are king (oxidation, batch to batch variations , microbial content..) • Essential oils adulterations with synthetics and even naturals! • Price ! • Availability, especially for organic raw materials

20. Technical Challenges (Finished product) Oil based products: massage oils, face oils, balms (100% organic claim ) Shampoos and bath products: green surfactants available but viscosity and performance can be tricky (many brands use semi naturals ) SPF: without nanotechnology it is impossible at the moment.

21. Marketing challenge: Consumers find difficult to spot the “fake” natural from the original one ( ie purely based on natural key ingredients rather than the whole product ) Efficacy claims can be limited because of ingredients restriction linked to certifications There can be a conflict between looking premium and being truly green

22. Reference: 1. Novel approaches in herbal cosmetics, D Chanchal & S Swarnlata 2008 Blackwell Publishing, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2. Naik SR, Pilgaonkar VW, Panda VS. Evaluation of antioxidant activity of Ginkgo biloba phytosomes in rat brain. Phytother Res 2006; 11 : 1013–6 . 3. Kuno N, Matsumoto M. Skin beautifying agent, antiaging agent for the skin, whitening agent and external agent for the skin, US Patent 6682763, 2004. 4.The challenges of developing Natural and Organic Cosmetics by Dr Barbara Olioso , organatural.co.uk

23. Thank You