Hair Gels Basics

1. Hair Styling Gels: In & Out Vikhyati Patel Summer Trainee Nirma University, Ahmedabad

2. http://blog.euromonitor.com/2014/07/mens-grooming-habits-in-emerging-and-developed-markets.html 2 Grooming By Gender

3. http://blog.euromonitor.com/2014/07/mens-grooming-habits-in-emerging-and-developed-markets.html 3 Men’s Grooming In Hair Care

4. Why Hair Styling? Hair style determines the personality. Hair style shows one’s outlook in life. Hair style shows one’s attractiveness. Hair style enhances one’s “Highly-Visible Asset” http://www.manlycurls.com/2013/05/hair-evolutionary-role-society-men-women/ 4

5. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hairstyling_product 5 Hair Styling Products Hair Wax Hair Mousse Pomade Hair Gel Hair Spray Hair Volumizer Miscellaneous

6. Ulrike Blume- Peytavi , David A. Whiting, Ralph M. Trüeb ; Hair Growth and Disorders; Springer; 2008 edition; Page No.: 503 6 Hair Styling Products SPRAY GEL WAX MOUSSE POMADE BRILLIANTAINE OIL SHEEN SPRAY GEL CURL ACTIVATOR Aerosolized liquid applied to maintain the hair style Similar to sprays but they are either squeezed or picked up from a container New products designed to add increased hold to hair Unique styling product released as foam from an aerosolized can Designed to straighten, moisturize, and add shine to the kinky hair Unlike ointment pomade, they are liquid Hair sprays for kinky hair styles with high concentration of conditioners Used for “Jheri curls”, basically to enhance the curls Employs copolymers such as PVP ,which adds stiffness to hair They have PVP copolymers too, resulting in enhanced hold, increased hair shine and some conditioning They too rely on polymers, but polymers are designed to soften at body temperature It yields a lighter copolymer application Known as Cream Brilliantine, anhydrous in nature Popular for maintaining natural and kinky hairstyles Aerosolized oil containing mineral oil and silicone, used for majorly African-American hair Based on Glycerin which functions as humectants PVP is water soluble resin and thus results in stickiness and loss in stiffness Two types of hair gels: Styling gels Sculpturing gels Gives “Bed Head” look with a greasy look Gives wet and spiky look but not the perfect hold as gel Contains petrolatum, waxes, lanolin, vegetable or mineral oils Contain vegetable or mineral oil Used on daily basis to moisturize and decrease combing friction Currently out of popularity, due to stickiness and dirt adhesion due to Glycerin PVP +VA=high water resistant but harder to remove while shampooing Offers strong hold allowing the creation of gravity- defying hair styles Scooped from the can and allowed to soften between the palm prior to the application Produces less flaking and stickiness under moist condition Minimizes combing friction thus preventing hair breakages with styling and lubrication Newer formulations contain silicone for lubricity, castor oil for manageability and soluble glycoprotein to maintain proper moisture balance and shine PVP+ DMAEMA= High hold with reduced stiffness Creates the illusion of fullness on the scalp Popular for short hair styling Used for curl reductions and hair styling near to the scalp

7. Ulrike Blume- Peytavi, David A. Whiting, Ralph M. Trüeb; Hair Growth and Disorders; Springer; 2008 edition; Page No.: 503 7

8. https://blacklapel.com/thecompass/how-to-choose-the-right-hair-product/ 8

9. http://www.realmenrealstyle.com/hair-products-explained/ 9 Hair Styling Products Guide

10. http://betterlookingguy.com/get-a-haircut-that-makes-your-face-look-better/ 10

11. http://hair.lovetoknow.com/Hair_Gel 11 Why Hair Gels Over Others? Stiffen a hair style and keep it from falling apart Stronger Hold than others in adverse condition too Mildly wet appearance of hair for longer duration Conditioning agent to keep hair manageable Sunscreen components to protect hair from UV and other detrimental radiation Moisturizers to keep hair healthy (exception: alcohol based gels)

12. http://www.manlycurls.com/2013/09/hair-products-men-hairstyles-guide-gel-pomade-wax-spray/ 12 Hair Gel Categories Hair gels are actually categorized by “ Hold ”, which refers to the strength-holding capacity of the gel. Light Hold : Light-hold hair gel is indicated for hairstyles that do not require the hair to be secured tightly in place. Light-hold hair gel is the only type of hair gel recommend for long hair. Firm Hold: Firm-hold hair gel provides a tighter grip on the hair than the one from light-hold hair gel. Firm-hold gel is especially useful for straight and wavy hair of short and medium length. Strong Hold: Strong-hold hair gel offers the strongest grip on the hair and is ideal for gravity-defying hairstyles and/or hairstyles that need very-precise shaping and molding. Strong-hold hair gel is recommended for straight and wavy hair of short to medium length.

13. http://syndicate.details.com/post/short-quiff-hairstyle-for-men 13

14. http://chemistscorner.com/cosmetic-formulation-basics-styling-gel/ 14 General Composition Of Hair Styling Gels Thickeners Fixatives Humectants Solvent Neutralizers Solubilizers Preservatives Colorants Stabilizers Chelating Agents Fragrance Various Vitamin extracts Primary Composition Secondary Composition

15. http://betterlookingguy.com/get-a-haircut-that-makes-your-face-look-better/ 15 Thickeners They enhance the consistency, volume and viscosity of cosmetic products, thereby providing more stability and better performance. S ome thickeners have also emulsifying or gelling properties, the majority of thickeners have the ability to retain water on the skin and act therefore as moisturizers. Thickeners can be completely natural like waxes but also synthetic or semi-synthetic. They are derived from various sources and consist of very different molecular structures including polysaccharides, proteins, alcohols, silicones or waxes.

16. http://chemistscorner.com/thickening-agents-for-cosmetic-formulations/ 16 Types Of Thickeners

17. http://www.slideshare.net/anay_ict/thickening-agents-in-cosmetics 17 Mechanism Of Thickening Stage 1: Powder Stage 2: Hydration ( P olymer dispersion) Stage 3: Neutralization (Polymer mucilage) *mechanism demonstrated for carbopol

18. http://cosmetics.specialchem.com/tech-library/article/film-forming-methods-and-materials?flag=1 18 Fixatives

19. http://cosmetics.specialchem.com/tech-library/article/film-forming-methods-and-materials?flag=1 19 film formers are used in conjunction with volatile solvents. The volatile material evaporates off thereby leaving the film former on the surface of the skin or hair. The volatile solvents of choice are water, isododecane or cyclomethicone, all of which work well in various cosmetic systems where film forming is desirable. Film Forming Mechanism

20. http://cosmetics.specialchem.com/tech-library/article/film-forming-methods-and-materials?flag=1 20 Selection of the proper film former is essential in creating a product with specific characteristics and optimum functionality. The use level will vary depending on the active level of the specific film former and how much of a film is desired in the product.

21. http://www.curlynikki.com/2012/12/humectants-weather-and-hair-care-part-1.html 21 Humectants Humectants are used in hair and skin care products to promote moisture retention. They have the ability to attract water from the atmosphere. Many different molecules have the ability to be effective humectants. How well they do this depends on how many water-loving sites they contain for hydrogen bonding with water molecules. The strength of this bonding between the humectants and water improves moisture retention by minimizing water loss due to evaporation. Glycerin , Propylene glycol, Honey , Sorbitol , Sodium PCA, Panthenol , Hydrolyzed silk protein, Fructose are the major ones used in hair and skin care.

22. 22 Humectants are hydrophilic substances, containing hydroxyl groups. They are composed of polar molecules, and the dipole-dipole interactions between these molecules and the hydrogen-bonding water molecules allow an attraction to occur, thus allowing for moisture retention.

23. https://www.lubrizol.com/personal-care/documents/technical-data-sheets/tds-237-neutralizing-carbopol%C2%AE-and-pemulen%E2%84%A2-polymers-in-aqueous-and-hydroalcoholic-systems.pdf 23 Neutralizers Neutralizer is a substance or material used in the neutralization of acidic mixture. It is a common designation for alkaline materials. the best pH of the system should be determined by the performance desired for the particular application. The final pH should be consistent with desired functional attributes of the targeted application. NaOH, Ammonia, KOH, TEA, Tris Amino®, Triisopropanolamine, Neutrol® TE, AMP Ultra PC2000 are the most common one used in hair care.

24. http://hollistics.com/2013/04/13/ph-balance/ 24 Why to Balance pH? Hair and sebum naturally have a pH balance between 4.5 and 5.5. This means hair and sebum (natural oils) are healthiest when acidic . Raising pH can lead to dry , brittle hair, prone to breakage. Maximum alkalinity that can be healthy for hair is till 7.5 pH Slight alkalinity is necessary in hair styling products such as Hair gels to give fluffy look to the style and helps combat baldness or thin hair problems.

25. https://www.google.co.in/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=15&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjGoNLjmpjNAhWJKo8KHWmuArE4ChAWCDUwBA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.in-cosmetics.com%2F__novadocuments%2F6903&usg=AFQjCNEfhmb0YJYHI8WvvXalnn_aDuiM1A&sig2=3gxlqLBAjDeOFlPlp_AfAw 25 Solubilizers A solubilizer is a type of emulsifier used to incorporate small amounts of one phase into a separate larger phase

26. http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/preservative-information 26 Preservatives The use of preservatives is essential in most products to prevent product damage caused by microorganisms and to protect the product from inadvertent contamination by the consumer during use. An ingredient that protects the product from the growth of microorganisms is called an antimicrobial. A preservative may also be added to a product to protect it against damage and degradation caused by exposure to oxygen, and in this instance, these ingredients are also called antioxidants. Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Potassium Sorbate, DMDM Hydantoin, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium benzoate, Quaternium – 15, Benzalkonium Chloride, Citric Acid, Grapefruit Seed Extract, etc. are used as preservatives.

27. http://www.americanpharmaceuticalreview.com/Featured-Articles/38885-Antimicrobial-Preservatives-Part-Two-Choosing-a-Preservative/ 27 Effect of pH on Preservative Efficacy

28. http://www.paulaschoice.com/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/definition/chelating-agent 28 Chelating Agents Any ingredient that bind with metal ions or metallic compounds, preventing them from adhering to a surface (such as skin, hair, or clothing) or causing contamination or discoloration, such as in the case of trace amounts of iron. Examples are tetrasodium EDTA and tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine. The EDTA complex is most common because of its broad effectiveness and compatibility with most cosmetic ingredients.

29. http://syndicate.details.com/post/short-quiff-hairstyle-for-men 29 Thank You!

30. http://syndicate.details.com/post/short-quiff-hairstyle-for-men 30

31. http://syndicate.details.com/post/short-quiff-hairstyle-for-men 31