Herbal Cosmetics

#herbalcosmetics #sigmainstituteofpharmacy #pharmacognosy #drsiddhiupadhyay

1. HERBAL COSMETICS DR. SIDDHI UPADHYAY ( M.Pharm , Ph.D ) HOD, Dept. of Pharmacog . & Phytochem . Associate Professor, Sigma Institute of Pharmacy

2. What are cosmetics? According to D & C Act 1940 : Any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on or introduced to or applied to any part of human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting, attractiveness or altering the appearance and includes any article intended for use as component of cosmetics . What are herbal cosmetics? Herbal cosmetics is defined as the beauty products, which posses desirable physiological activities, such as skin healing, smoothening, appearance, enhancing and conditioning properties with the help of herbal ingredients

3. These are the cosmetics which are prepared using plant products having cosmetic actions. Recently the use of botanicals in cosmetics have increased mainly due to the mild action and non-toxic nature . In cosmetics, both natural and phyto- ingredients are used. Natural products include oils, extracts, secretions etc. Phyto-ingredients include pure constituents obtained by various process.

4. ADVANTAGES of Herbal Cosmetics They do not provoke allergic reaction & do not have negative side effects. They are easily incorporated with skin and hair. Wi t h s m all qua n tity t h ey are v e r y e f f e cti v e as c o m pa r ed to synthetic cosmetics. Easily available & found in large variety & quantity.

5. DISADVANTAGES of Herbal Cosmetics Herbal drugs have slower effects as compare to Allopathic dosage form. Also it requires long term therapy. They are difficult to hide taste and odor. Manufacturing process are time consuming and complicated. No pharmacopoeia defines any specific procedure or ingredients to be used in any of herbal cosmetics.

6. Herbal sources for skin care products

7. HERBAL COSMETICS FOR SKIN The herbal approach of proper skin care is principally based on three essential steps. Cleanse Nourish Moisture Whatever may be the type of skin; these three steps are performed to protect the skin from the constant effect of environment, stress and skin’s natural process of cell degradation decay.

8. HERBAL COSMETICS FOR VARIOUS TYPES OF SKIN  FOR DRY SKIN Example of Herbs: Rubia Cardifolia (Manjista), Triphla, Tulsi, Glycerihza glabra in sesame oil. Fruit face mask: Banana or avocado pulp.  FOR SENSITIVE SKIN Example of Herbs: curcuma longa, triphala, azadircta indica mustaka, nimba in coconut oil. Fruit face mask: Banana or pineapple pulp.

9. FOR OILY SKIN Example of Herbs: Tulsi, idhora, jatiphata, nimba, terminalia arjuna, Triphla, curcuma longa, mustaka in musterd oil , milk, sour milk, cream and butter milk are used as gentle natural cleanser. Fruit face mask: Strawberry or papaya pulp.

10. Herbal ingredients used in skin care Latin name Common name Part used Uses Acorus calamus Sweet flag Rhizome Aromatic, Dusting powders, Skin lotions Allium sativum Garlic Bulb Promotes skin healing, Antibacterial Aloe vera Aloe Leaf Moisturizer, Sun screen, Emollient Alpinia galanga Galanga Rhizome Aromatic, Dusting powders Avena sativa Oat Fruit Moisturizer, Skin tonic Azadirachta indica Neem Leaf Antiseptic, Reduce dark spots, Antibacterial Echinacea purpurea Echinacea roots, stem, and leaves Skin regeneration Centella asiatica Gotu kola Plant Wound healing, Reduce Symphytum officinale Comfrey leaves cell regeneration, stimulates the growth of new cells, rejuvenate the skin Crocus sativus Kesar Flowering top Skin cleansing lotion

11. Herbal products used for skin care are: Cleansers Scrubs Toners Astringent Nourishers Packs or masks Sun Care: Sun block Anti-tan pack Protective creams Gels and lotions Eye Care

12. ALOE VERA W ALNUT R OSE P A P A Y A CUCUMBER NEEM TU R M E RIC SANDAL WOOD GREEN COFFEE SEEDS GRAPE SEEDS

13. DRUG ALOE VERA SYNONYMS Aloe, Musabbar, Kumari V E RNACU L AR NAMES ‘ Ghritkumari ’ in Hindi, ‘ Kalabanda ’ in Telugu, ‘ Katralai ’ in Tamil, ‘ Kumari ’ in Malayalam, ‘ Lolisara ’ in Kannada, ‘ Koraphada ’ in Marathi, and ‘ Ghrtakumari ’ in Bengali BIO L OGICAL SOURCE Dried juice of the leaves of Aloe barbadensis , Liliaceae CHEMICAL C O N S TI T UEN T S Amino acids, anthraquinones, enzymes, minerals, vitamins, lignins, monosaccharide, polysaccharides, salicylic acid, saponins, and sterols. USES Prevents Premature Signs Of Aging., Moisturizes skin, Helps lighten blemishes, Helps with sunburns, Reduces stretch marks

14. D R UG WALNUT SYNONYMS Black walnut, edible nut. V E RNACU L AR NAMES ( Dutch ) Walnoot. ( Greek ) Carya persica. Carya basilike. ( Roman ) Nux persica. Nux regia. BIOLOGICAL SOURCE A walnut is the nut of any tree of Juglans nigra , Juglandaceae CHEMICAL C O N S TI T UEN T S The black walnut contains a number of active ingredients, of which the most important are juglone, tannins and iodine . US E S Delays Skin Aging, Moisturized Skin, Bid Adieu To Your Dark Circles, For Glowing Skin

15. DRUG ROSE SYNONYMS Damask rosa VERNACULAR NAMES kamal in Hindi Gullabi in Telugu. Róisín (pronounced ro-sheen) in Irish. BIO L OGICAL SOURCE A rose is a woody perennial flowering plant of Rosa centifolia, family Rosaceae. CHEMICAL C O N S TI T UEN T S The essential oil to which the perfume of the Rose is due is found in both flowers and leaves. In the flower, the petals are the chief secreting part of the blossom, though a certain amount of essential oil resides in the epidermal layers of cells, both surfaces of the petals being equally odorous and secretive. USES Used to treat acne naturally, Lightens your lip colour

16. DRUG PAPAYA SYNONYMS Papaya, Paw Paw, Kates, Papaw. BIO L OGICAL SOURCE It is a mixture of proteolytic enzymes derived from the latex of unripe fruit of Carica papaya , Caricaceae CHEMICAL C O N S TI T UEN T S H igher moisture con-tent in the fruit pulp (87.47% to 91.32%)than in the leaves (81.27% to 85.17%) and theseeds (39.69-44.33%). The round yellow co-lored fruits had less moisture while roundorange had more USES Moisturizes Skin, Clears Pigmentation, Reduces Wrinkles, Reduces Under-Eye Dark Circles, Cures Eczema And Psoriasis, Treats Melasma, Removes Tan,Controls Acne Breakout

17. DRUG CUCUMBER V E RNACU L AR NAMES Kakaddi in hindi Kera in telugu BIO L OGICAL SOURCE Cucumber ( Cucumis sativus ) It is a widely cultivated plant in the gourd family, Cucurbitaceae CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS : The oil in the cucumber contains 22.3% linoleic acid, 58.5% oleic acid, 6.8% palmitic acid and 3.7% stearic acid. The fresh cucumber is a very good source of vitamin C, vitamin K, and potassium. It also contains vitamin A, vitamin B6, thiamin, folate, pantothenic acid, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, copper, and manganese. USES Revitalizes Skin, Reverses Skin Tanning, Controls Puffiness Of The Eyes, Helps Soothe Sunburn, Rejuvenates Skin,Treats Open Pores, Fights Cellulite, Reduces Dark Circles, Treats Blemishes, Reduces Eye Wrinkles, Removing Excess Water, Under Eye Bags

18. DRUG NEEM SYNONYMS Miracle tree, Nimba, Arishtha, Margosa BIOLOGICAL SOURCE It consists of all aerial partsof plant known as Azadirachta indica, Meliaceae. CHEMICAL C O N S TI T UEN T S The bitterness is due to an array of complex compounds called "triterpenes" or more specifically "limonoids". Nearly 100 protolimonoids, limonoids or tetranortriterpenoids, pentanortriterpenoids, hexanortriterpenoids and some nonterpenoid constituents have been isolated form various parts of the Neem tree USES Clears Acne & Dark Pigmentation Prevents Acne Breakouts Treats Skin Infection Prevents Recurrence Of Blackheads Adds Glow To The Skin

19. DRUG TURMERIC SYNONYMS Haridra, Indian saffron, Curcuma, Haldi BIO L OGICAL SOURCE It consists od dried and fresh rhizomes of the plant known as Curcuma longa , Zingiberaceae. CHEMICAL C O N S TI T UEN T S An acrid, volatile oil, brown colouring matter, gum, starch, chloride of calcium, woody fibre and a yellowish colouring matter named curcumin. USES Treatment Of Acne, Facial Mask For Skin, Treatment Of Wrinkles, Treatment Of Stretch Marks, Soothes Burns, Reduction Of Skin Pigmentation And Skin Tanning

20. DRUG SANDAL WOOD SYNONYMS Yellow sandalwood R E GIONAL NAMES ‘ Chandan in hindi Chandanam in telugu BIO L OGICAL SOURCE It is dried heartwood of Santalum album , Santalaceae. CHEMICAL C O N S TI T UEN T S : The oil consists about 90-97% of sesquiterpene alcohols, which is distinguished for the purpose of analysis as 'santalol'(It consists of alpha santalol and beta santalol). Uses- used in perfumery . USES Anti-tanning Property , Skin Softening Effect, Itch Relief, Prickly heat Solution , Clear Complexion

21. DRUG GREEN COFFEE SEEDS SYNONYMS Caffea BIO L OGICAL SOURCE The name Coffee is derived from Caffa , Coffea arabica of family Abyssinia CHEMICAL C O N S TI T UEN T S Oil, wax, caffeine, aromatic oil, tannic acid, caffetannic acid, gum, sugar, protein USES Rich In Anti-Oxidants Helps Slowing Down The Appearance Of Signs Of Ageing Helps Moisturize Skin

22. DRUG GRAPE SEEDS SYNONYMS Vitis labrusca BIO L OGICAL SOURCE It is extracted from grape seeds Vitis vinifera , Vitaceae CHEMICAL C O N S TI T UEN T S These are composed mainly of cellulose (30.3%), hemicelluloses (21.0%), lignin (17.4%), tannins (15.9%) and proteins (6.1%). USES Say Goodbye To Acne And Pimples Skin Tightening: Minimizes Under-Eye Circles Moisturizer Prevents Skin Aging

23. Herbal sources for hair care products

24. TYPES OF HERBAL HAIR CARE PRODUCTS HAIR OIL : The hair oils are used for dressings and nourishing the hair. This preparations is generally used to increase the growth of hair and to make them healthy . Hair oil should have following properties : They should give luster to the hair. Retain them soft and flowing. Invigorate their growth. Keep the brain cool. Should not be sticky.

25.  HAIR LOTION : Hair lotion has a stimulating effect upon the hair follicles. They are generally perfumed with oil of rosemary and others ascenes as it posses a good stimulating property. HAIR COLORANTS : These are preparations which are used for the coloring of hthe hairs. They enhances the attractiveness of gray hair. They are applied externally on the hair with help of brush . SHAMPOO : Shampoo is preparation of surfactant in suitable form liquid, solid or powder- which when used under the condition specified will remove surface grease, dirt, and skin debris from the hair shaft and scalp without

26. QUALLITIES OF AN IDEAL HAIR PRODUCT It should: Protect the hair cuticle. Cleans without stripping natural oils. Replace lost protein, moisture, and nutrients. Condition without weighing down the hair. Even without porosity and prevent moisture loss. Smooth abraded cuticle scales. Prevent intense drying from environment .

27. Herbal ingredients used in hair care Latin name Aloe vera Com m on P a rt us e d U s es name Aloe Leaf Moisturizer, Shampoos Bacopa monneri Hair growth, Good for sleep, Shampoos Arctium lappa Promots hair growth. C e dr u s d e sse n tial o i ls d ara Soaps, Shampoos Centella asiatica Hair care, Darkening of hair, Hair oil Citrus aurantium Soaps, Shampoos Citrus limon Prevents hair loss Eclipta alba Promoting hair growth, Shampoos, Hair oil Acacia Concinna Brahmi Entire herb Arctium lappa Roots D e sse n tial W o o d oilsdar Gotu kola Plant Orange Peel Lemon Peel Bhringraj Plant Shikakai pods promots hair growth and

28. Herbal Shampoo Herbal shampoos are the cosmetic preparations that with the use of traditional ayurvedic herbs are meant for cleansing the hair and scalp They are used for removal of oils, dandruff, dirt, environmental pollutions etc..

29. Functions of hair shampoo Lubrication Conditioning Hair Growth Maintenance of hair colour Medication

30. Advantages of Herba l Shampoos Pure and organic ingredients Free from side effects No surfactants (Sodium Laural Sulphate) No synthetic additives No animal testing Earth and skin friendly No petroleum based ingredients

31. Reetha ( soapnut) Benefits of Reetha Reetha is a very effective cleansing agent that keeps the scalp gentle and removes any microorganism that may cause infections. Its natural cleansing agents are more beneficial than other chemical cleansing agents as they cause no irritation to the scalp. Its various active components nourish the hair and keep it healthy and smooth. Reetha adds shine to the hair and brings back the natural texture. Because of the cleansing properties, you can also get rid of dandruff and lice by using Reetha on a regular basis.

32. Herbal Hair Conditioners Conditioners that adds shine to the hair and make it tangle free. After shampooing it’s important to use hair conditioners to give increased manageability to our hair, leaving it soft it soft and shiny. Conditioning is needed especially for dry, brittle hair and dandruff treatment. The first and foremost purpose of conditioners is to moisturize the hair and scalp.

33. Hair Darkeners It is the preparations which are used to colour hairs. So many synthetic preparations available in the market, but it has various side effects like skin irritation. With the use of herbal hair darkeners we can produced desirable colour having no side effects. Various herbal preparations are available in the market which darkens the hairs. The herbal preparations not only darkens the hair but it act as the hair tonic which make hairs healthy and shiny. Various natural products used for this like Henna, Amla, Reetha etc. This herbal products is also used in the combinations.

34. A M L A It is a fresh and dried fruit of Emblica Officinalis belonging to family Euphorbiaceae. It is deciduous tree found in deciduous forest. In India often cultivated in UP, Gujrat, Rajasthan and Maharashtra. It is tricarpellary globose drupe with fleshly edible.(seed inside the fruit) Its colour is green when unripe but turns yellow on ripening. The surface of fruit is smooth and shiny with six vertical furrows. The taste is sour and astringent.

35. Chemical Constituents of Amla Amla contains about 5-6 % Tannins (gallic acid, ellagic acid and phyllembelin). It is rich source of natural Vitamin C. It is destroyed on heating and drying in sun. It is also reach source of pectin and minerals like phosphorus, iron and calcium.

36. Uses of Amla Amla has various uses like, Antifungal Antibacterial Antiviral Antioxidants It is used in the herbal preparations like Hair dyes Hair conditioners Hair Shampoos Hair Tonic Amla is used in the form of fresh juice of the pulp, aqueous extract as well as its oil.

37. Hen n a Henna is consist of dried leaves of Lawsonia inermis belonging to family Lythraceae It is cultivated as garden plant throughout the India. Flowers are numerous, small with rose coloured fragrance.

38. Chemical Constituents of Henna The leaves contains soluble matter Lawsone. This quinone dissolves in alkaline solution to give an intence red colour. Henn leaf also contains flavonoids, coumarins and xanthones.

39. Cosmetic Use of Henna It is used in cosmetic preparation in many ways as colouring and cosmetic ingredients. It has been used as a hair colour, nail colour and decoration purpose. The drug is widely used in cosmetology for its dyeing properties due to strong binding property of lawsone to hairs. It is also used in the form of shampoo and hair lotions. Henna is used in ayurvedic preparation for the treatment of skin ailments, burns and wounds.

40. Herbal sources for oral care products

41. Herbal oral care The commonly used herbal medications for oral and dental health can be classified based on their properties as: PLANTS WITH ANTIMICROBIAL PROPERTY Aloe, betel pepper ( Piper betel ), black pepper (Piper nigrum ), clove (Syzygium aromaticum ), coriander, ( Coriandrum sativum ), eucalyptus ( Eucalyptus globules ), garlic ( Allium sativum ), turmeric ( Curcuma longa ) PLANTS WITH ANTIOXIDANT PROPERTY Spinach, pepper, black tea, broccoli, green tea, carrot, potato tomato, blackberry, grape, olive, pineapple have potent antioxidant activity PLANTS WITH ANALGESIC PROPERTY Capsicum ( Capsicum annuum ), Chile ( Capsicum annuum ), clove ( Eugenia caryophyllus), ginger (Zingiber officinale ), menthol ( Mentha piperata ), peppermint ( Mentha piperita ), poppy ( Papaver somniferum ), tobacco ( Nicotiana tabacum ).

42. Herbal ingredients used in oral care Some of the important herbs and their use in dentistry and oral care as follows: Clove Oil (Syzygium aromaticum ) It has got excellent analgesic and antiseptic properties which inhibit growth of all disease causing bacteria USES: 1. Relieve toothache 2. Treating bleeding gums. Aloe Vera ( Grita Kumari ) It is analgesic, antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, and antiseptic in nature USED IN : Toothpick injuries, chemical burns Tea Tree Oil ( Melaleuca alternifolia ) It has antiseptic and antifungal properties. USED IN: Treatment of throat irritation, stings, burns

43. Garlic ( Allium sativum ) Its antibacterial activity depends on allicin produced by enzymatic activity of alliinase USED IN: Inhibits the growth of Streptococcus mutans , and therefore, can be used as an effective remedy in the prevention of dental caries Evening Primrose ( Oleum Oenothera biennis) It has antiallergic and antiulcer activity USED IN : Treatment of dental caries. Neem ( Azadirachta indica) USED IN: preventing and healing gum diseases and other dental problems such as bleeding and plaque

44. Thyme ( Thymus vulgaris ) It is mainly composed of volatile oils namely phenol, thymol, and carvacrol USED IN : it contains fluoride used in toothpaste Turmeric ( Curcuma longa Linn .) It is an antiseptic, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and painkiller Meswak ( Salvadora persica ) It is a derivative from Arak tree, used as a traditional toothbrush for oral hygiene.

45. Herbal active ingredients as cosmetic value

46. Selected Herbal Active Ingredients

47. Some Marketed Herbal Products

48. C O N C L USION The usage of herbal cosmetics has been increased to many folds in personal care system and there is a great demand for the herbal cosmetics. The use of bioactive ingredients in cosmetics influence biological functions of skin and provide nutrients necessary for the healthy skin or hair. There is tremendous scope to launch numerous herbal cosmetics using appropriate bioactive ingredients with suitable fatty oil, essential oils, proteins and additives.