Herbal Cosmetics advantages and disadvantages

Herbal Drug Technology

1. Herbal Cosmetics By Dr Gana Manjusha Kondepudi Associate Professor Vignan Institute of Pharmaceutical Technology VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

2. The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word “ kosmtikos ” meaning having the power, arrange, skill in decorating. The concept of beauty and cosmetics dates back to ancient mankind and civilization. Generally herbal cosmetics are also referred to as natural cosmetics. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

3. The cosmetics, according to the Drugs and Cosmetics Act is defined as articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part there of for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance. The cosmetic does not come under the preview of drug license. The herbal cosmetics are the preparations containing phytochemical from a variety of botanical sources, which influences the functions of skin and provide nutrients necessary for the healthy skin or hair. The increased demand for the natural product has created new avenues in cosmeceutical market. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

4. Advantages of Herbal Cosmetics over Synthetic 1. Compatibility with skin types: Herbal Cosmetics are best suited for almost all types of skin. They provide appropriate skin benefits despite skin color and skin tone. They are also best suited for the dry, sensitive and oily skin. Natural cosmetics also prevent the degradation of the skin VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

5. 2. Efficacy and greater safety: Comparable to synthetic cosmetics, natural ones are safer to use. Clinically tested by the dermatologists, they can be used anytime. For instance the synthetic chemical such as Butylated Hydroxy Anisole (BHA) a common antioxidant which is reported to a carcinogenic and allergic reaction to the body. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

6. 3. Greater diversity for selection: Herbal cosmetics or this field consists of large diversification of herbs and plant materials. Variety of herbal ingredients and herbal formulations are available. For instance, various formulations of eye shadows, mascara, creams, foundation is available. Various examples include Salai Guggal-Boswellia serrata , Shatawari - Asparagus racemosus VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

7. 4. No Need for animal testing: As compared to synthetic cosmetics, the need for animal testing on herbal products or formulation is least. These cosmetics are tested in the lab conditions using various types of equipment. This means no animals are harmed during the testing of safety and efficacy. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

8. 5. Budget-friendly: Herbal cosmetics are much more cost friendly than synthetic cosmetics. Because of their greater diversity around and easy availability, the relative cost is comparatively low. These natural cosmetics, because of the friendliness in the cost, is preferred by 80% of the population around the globe. There are numerous herbs available naturally having different uses in cosmetic preparations for skincare, hair care and as antioxidants, fragrant etc VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

9. Herbal cosmetics used for Skin :- 1.Powders 2.Bath and cleansing products 3.Creams 4. Make-up preparations 5.Lotions 6.Deodorants Hair :- 1.Shampoos 2. Beard softeners 3.Tonics 4. Shaving media 5.Hair dressing 6. Depilatories (hair removers) Teeth and mouth:- 1.Tooth powders 2. Dentifrices 3. Mouth washes VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

10. HERBAL COSMETICS FOR SKIN The herbal approach of proper skin care is principally based on three essential steps. • • • Cleanse Nourish M o i st ur i ze Whatever may be the type of skin, these three steps are performed to protect the skin from the constant effect of environment, stress and skin’s natural process of cell degradation decay. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

11. Fixed oils used in Cosmetics Almond Oil : It is a fixed oil obtained by expressing the seeds of Prunus amygdalus , Family Rosaceae . The oil is pale yellow in colour , with a characteristic odour . The active principles are mainly the mixture of glycoside with oleic acid, linoleic acid, myristic and palmitic acid . It has an emollient action, so it is used in the preparation of creams and lotion VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

12. Arachis Oil : This is also a fixed oil obtained from the seeds of the Arachis hypogea belonging to the family Leguminosae . The oil is pale yellow in colour , with a faint nutty odour . Refined groundnut oil is colourless , with active principles like oleic, linoleic acid and a small amount of other acids. At 3° C, it is cloudy, at a lower temperature, it solidifies. It is used in the preparation of hair oils and brilliantines VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

13. Castor Oil: Oil is obtained from the seeds of Ricinus communis belonging to the family, Euphorbiaceae . It has a slight odour ; the oil is either yellow in colour or colourless . It consists of a mixture of glycosides, in which 80% of ricinoleic acid is the major constituent. At 0° C it forms a clear liquid. It is used as an emollient , in the preparation of lipsticks, hair oils, creams and lotions. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

14. Olive Oil: This oil is obtained from the fruit of the Olea europea , belonging to the family, Oleaceae . The oil is either pale yellow or greenish yellow in colour , it has a slight odour . It consists of the glycerides of oleic acid, palmitic , linoleic , stearic and myristic acids. At a lower temperature, it is solid or partly solid. It has emollient, soothing properties. It is used in the manufacturing of creams, lotions and bath oils VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

15. Coconut Oil : This oil is obtained from the dried solid part of the endosperm of the coconut – Cocos nucifera , family Palmea . It is a white or pearl-white unctuous mass in winter and colourless in summer. The melting point of coconut oil is 24 to 25°C (75-76ºF) and thus can be used easily in liquid or solid forms and is often used in cooking and baking. Coconut oil is an excellent skin moisturizer and softener . VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

16. Light liquid paraffin : It consists of a mixture of hydrocarbons in the form of an oily liquid which has no colour or odour . Viscosity and weight per ml (0.83– 0.87g) are both low in light liquid paraffin. It is used in the manufacture of bath oils, hair oils, brilliantines , lotions and creams, due to its better spreadibility . Heavy liquid paraffin : It is composed of a mixture of hydrocarbons in the form of a colourless and odourless oily liquid. Due to its soothing effect on the skin, it is used in creams, lotions, brilliantines , hair oils and bath oils. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

17. Waxes are the esters resulting from the condensation of high molecular straight chain fatty acids with high molecular straight chain monohydric alcohol of the methanol series. They are used in cosmetics as a base, along with oils and fats. Example: lipsticks. Waxes Commonly used waxes are briefly discussed below. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

18. Beeswax : It is a purified wax separated from the honeycomb of bees, Apis mellifera which belong to the Family, Apidae . Beeswax is composed of 70% ester myricyl palmitate . It is yellowish brown in colour , solid, with a honey-like odour . Under cold conditions it becomes brittle; when bleached, it becomes yellowish-white solid with a faint characteristic odour . The melting point of beeswax is 62°C–65°C. Beeswax helps in the incorporation of water to form an emulsion. Bees wax is used mainly in creams and stick-type products such as lipstick and hair stick. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

19. Carnauba Wax : This is obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian wax palm, Copernica cerifera , which belongs to the Palmae family. Camauba wax is available in various grades. The highest grade is light-brown to pale-yellow in colour . It is in the form of moderately coarse powder or flakes, with a characteristic bland odour . The melting range of this wax is 81°C–86°C. It is a hard wax and is used in the manufacture of candles, wax varnishes, leather and furniture polishes. The main uses for carnauba wax are in stick cosmetics such as lipstick to improve the gloss and heat endurance. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

20. Spermaceti : It is a solid wax obtained from the head, blubber and ear case of the sperm whale, Physester colodon , which belongs to the Physeteridae family. It consists mainly of cetyl palmitate and cetyl myristate spermaceti in a solid wax, which is a translucent crystalline, pearly-white, unctuous mass with little odour and taste. It melts at a specific gravity of about 0.94 VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

21. Jojoba oil Jojoba oil is a liquid wax ester extracted from the seeds of the wild jojoba plant , Simmondsia chinensis and Simmondsia californica Nuttall ( Euphorbiaceae ). The main components are esters of unsaturated higher alcohols (11-eicosen-l-ol and 13- dococen-1-ol) as well as unsaturated fatty acids (11-eicosenoic acid and oleic acid)^). Jojoba oil has excellent stability for autooxidation and superior feeling on use giving it a pleasant touch to the skin so it is used extensively in creams, milky lotions, lipsticks, etc. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY

22. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Gums are pathological, abnormal plant products caused as a result of an injury to the plant. Chemically, they are polymers of monosaccharides or mixed monosaccharides and many of them are combined with uronic acids. Gums are the mixtures of calcium, sodium or potassium salts of aldobionic acids. Aldobionic acids on hydrolysis yield monosaccharides and uronic acids. GUMS

23. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY This anionic polysaccharide is collected from the sap of the acacia tree. Acacia gum is a naturally-occurring gum soluble in hot or cold water and gives a clear solution of neutral to acidic pH. This gum is not a thickener unless used in concentrations above 40%, and this viscosity is lost at elevated temperatures making it less desirable for most formulations. ACACIA GUM

24. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY 4. This gum will help solubilize oils into water without increasing viscosity. 5. This makes acacia a good choice to help incorporate essential oils into low viscosity water-based products like toners and sprays. 6. Acacia works best when used at a 3:1 or even 4:1 ratio of acacia to essential oil. 7. It also pairs well with other gums to help stabilize formulations.

25. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY By far the most commonly used natural gum in cosmetics, this affordable and easy to use gum is derived from the fermentation of the plant bacteria Xanthomonas Campestris . This anionic polysaccharide will disperse in vegetable glycerin, but will not hydrate.  Xanthan gum is widely used because it is compatible with most ingredients used in cosmetics and it’s readily available and versatile.   XANTHAN GUM

26. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY 4. Xanthan gum will hydrate in hot or cold water and creates a hazy but neutral pH solution. 5. This gum will create a gel that can tolerate the addition of a wide range of water-soluble active ingredients. 6. Xanthan is also highly synergistic with galactomannans like Konjac . 7. When Xanthan is mixed with Konjac , the viscosity of the gel will increase dramatically. 8. Xanthan is also resistant to heat and shearing, making the gels produced with Xanthan highly stable.

27. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Konjac Powder is comprised of a high viscosity soluble fiber called glucomannan , which can expand to 100 times its volume in water making it an extremely effective humectant in cosmetics. Konjac is rich in protein, lipids, fatty acids, plus vitamins A, B, C, D, & E, and natural minerals such as copper, zinc and magnesium. Konjac forms a clear, colorless gel and when mixed with xanthan gum, viscosity increases dramatically. KONJAC GUM

28. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Common name Botanical name Family Cosmetics uses Acacia gum Acacia senegal / Acacia arabica Leguminoseae Stabilizer and thickener, demulcent and emollient in cosmetic Almond gum Prunus amygdalus Rosaceae Emulsifier,thickener , glazing agent and stabilizer Cashew gum Anacardium occidentale Anacardiaceae Thickening agent, gelling agent, suspending agent Carragennan Chondrus cryspus Gigarginaceae Has water-binding properties that help it hold-in moisture

29. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Common name Botanical name Family Cosmetics uses Ghatti gum Anogeissus latifolia Combretaceae Binder, emulsifier, and suspending compound Guar gum Cyamompsis tetraganolobus Leguminoseae Emulsifier, thickener, increase viscosity Myrrh gum Commiphora mol mol Burseraceae Fragrant material in perfumes and astringent Tragacanth gum Astragalus gummifer labill Leguminosae Thickener and suspending agent , viscosity and film forming properties. Xantham gum Xanthomonas lempestris Binder, emulsion stabilizer, emulsifying surfactant, as well as an aqueous viscosity increasing agent.

30. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Colours have been used in cosmetics, since time immemorial, by human beings. Basically, the desire to buy a cosmetic product is controlled by three senses, namely, sight, touch and smell. So colour is one of the most important ingredients of cosmetic formulations. Colour is a visual sensation which can be caused by a definite wavelength or a group of wavelengths by an object through one or more of the following phenomena – emission, refection, refraction or transmission. COLOURS

31. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Cochineal : Cochineal is a red dye stuff derived from the dried female insect, Dactilopius coccus , which belongs to the Coccidae family. Carminic acid is the main colouring constituent in cochineal. On crystallization, carminic acid forms red needles and at 130°C, the needles darken and also carbonize at 250°C. For the preparation of caramine , the cochineal is extracted with water. Alum is added to this solution to precipitate the red aluminium salt called carmine lake.

32. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Saffron : It consists of the stigmas and tops of the styles of the plant, Crocus sativa , which belongs to the Iridaceae family. It is a perennial plant grown in Jammu and Kashmir in India. Saffron powder is yellowish and is easily soluble in water, so it is used as a flavouring and colouring agent in food preparations. Saffron contains a number of carotenoids – crocin is an important natural saffron carotenoid . Picrocrocin is a colorless bitter glycoside responsible for saffron’s characteristic odour .

33. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Chlorophyll : It is the natural green pigment, found abundantly in nature. It is the component that is responsible for photosynthesis.

34. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Essential oils as well as their isolated compounds are widely used in cosmetic products as they offer a variety of benefits. Their biological activities range from analgesic, antiseptic, antimicrobial, carminative, diuretic, spasmolytic to hyperaemic and stimulatory. The main reason for their usage in cosmetics is their pleasant aroma. Fatty acids, fatty oils and surfactants used in the production-process of cosmetic products often exhibit an unpleasant scent. Effective perfume mixtures are therefore added to these products in order to mask it. PERFUMES

35. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Essential oils are extracted from flowers (e.g. bergamot tree), grass, herbs, fruit (e.g. anise), peel of citrus fruits, seeds (e.g. nutmeg), leaves (e.g. eucalyptus), bark (e.g. cinnamon), rhizomes (e.g. turmeric) and roots – virtually every part of the plant. They are produced by a process of ‘expression’ (cold-pressure squeezing of fruit peel) or distillation, which is slow, laborious and expensive

36. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY In general, most plant volatiles are derived from three main classes of compounds: terpenoids , phenylpropanoids including benzenoids , and fatty acid derivatives which are often greatly modified (oxidized, esterified , methylated , etc.). Mono- and sesquiterpenes belong to the terpenoids , the largest group (more than 30 000) of natural products known. These terpenes are synthesized from isopentenyl diphosphate

37. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Lavender Essential Oil Lavender essential oil is extracted by steam distillation from the flowering tops of  Lavandula angustifolia  Mill. clear colourless to pale yellow liquid characteristic odour Chemical Costituents : linalyl acetate (25–47%), linalool (max. 45%), terpinen-4-ol (max. 8%), camphor (max. 1.5%), limonene (max. 1%) and 1,8-cineole (max. 3%)

38. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY It has a pleasant aroma. Lavender oil is also commonly used in pharmaceutical products and as a fragrance ingredient in soaps, cosmetics and perfumes The oil is often used for its anti-inflammatory, calming, headache relieving, sedative and skin healing properties. One of the rarely known effects and qualities of  L. angustifolia  oil is its ability to relieve menstrual pain

39. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY German Chamomile Oil Essential oil of German chamomile is one of the most used essential oil in cosmetics. The blue chamomile oil is steam distillated from the flowers and flower heads of  Matricaria chamomilla  L. (Syn.  Chamomilla recutica ,  Matricaria recutica ). During the steam distillation process, colourless proazulene forms matricin , matricarin , guajazulen and chamazulene , which is responsible for the blue colour of the essential oil.

40. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY The oil has a sweet herbaceous odour and bitter aromatic flavour . When exposed to air, the light oil changes its colour to brown. It contains a high percentage of sesquiterpene and a low amount of monoterpenes . Important components are β- farnesene , farnesol , chamazulene , α- bisabolol oxides A and B which are responsible for the anti-inflammatory, antiphlogistic , spasmolytic and antiseptic properties of the oil. Chamomile oil is often adulterated with cheap pure bisabolol extracted from  Vanillosmopsis erythropappa  (DC.) Sch.Bip ., which can be detected by IRMS and GC-IRMS.

41. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY The oil is often used external in skin-creams, skin oils and as bath additives as it is considered to be effective in the treatment of skin inflammation. It can also be found in mouthwash-products, toothpastes, decorative cosmetics and shampoos

42. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Neroli Essential Oil Neroli essential oil is extracted from the flower of  Citrus aurantium  var.  amara  L., also known as bitter orange. It is an extremely expensive essential oil since for the production of 1kg of oil, 850 kg of bitter orange flowers are necessary. The citrus tree produces three different kinds of essential oils. Neroli essential oil is steam-distilled from the flower, petitgrain oil is produced from the leaves and orange oil comes from the orange peel

43. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Neroli is a pale yellow to coffee brown essential oil with a sweet, fresh and floral odour . Due to its very fine fragrance, it is one of the most important oils in perfume and soap industry. The oil has antimicrobial, antidepressant, antiseptic, carminative, antispasmodic and sedative properties. In cosmetics, it is generally used to refresh a tired skin, either sensitive or oily. linalool, β- pinene , α- terpineol , limonene, sabinene , nerol , nerolidol , linalyl acetate and α- pinene are main chemical compounds.

44. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Peppermint Essential Oil Peppermint essential oils are extracted from  Mentha piperita  L., a cross between watermint ( M. aquatic  L.) and spearmint ( M. spicata  L.). The main active ingredients of peppermint oil are (-)-menthol (33–55%) and (-)- menthone (14–33%). Other chemical compounds are 1,8-cineole, methyl acetate, methofuran , isomenthone , limonene, β- pinene , α- pinene , germacrene , trans- sabinene hydrate and pulegone .

45. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Peppermint oil is commonly used as a fragrance in soaps, cosmetics and as spice since it possesses a fresh, minty and cooling effect due to menthol. Added to bitter tasting capsules, peppermint is able to mask the bitterness when orally applied. Due to this flavouring property, peppermint is often found in chewing gums, toothpastes and mouthwashes. For medical use, peppermint oil can be taken orally as a dietary supplement for gastrointestinal complications.

46. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Rosemary Essential Oil Rosmarinus officinalis  L., also known as rosemary, is an aromatic plant which belongs to the Lamiaceae family. Rosemary essential oil is produced by steam distillation from the flowering tips of the plant yielding a colourless to pale yellow liquid with a strong, warm, woody, balsamic aroma.

47. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY The main chemical compounds in rosemary essential oil are eucalyptol (19.4%) and α- pinene (14.7%). Camphor (9.5%), bornyl acetate (9.1%), camphene (6.9%), β- pinene (6.7%), β- myrcene (5.8%), limonene (5.2%) and borneol (5.0%) are also found in the oil . Due to its stimulating effects, it is widely used in aromatherapy.

48. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Rosemary essential oil is often an ingredient in bath salts, bath oils, liniments, gels and ointments. It can also be found in cosmetic products such as lavender water, cologne water and as fragrance in soaps. The essential oil of rosemary is widely used for hair care as it nourishes the hair, promotes hair growth and helps against dandruff. It is also recommended in hair-loss treatment as it is believed that it has similar function to Minoxidil , an antihypertensive vasodilator medication, which revitalizes hair follicles that are damaged. Rosemary oil widens blood vessels and opens them and makes blood and nutrients more available to the follicles which are then stimulated into producing new hair.

49. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Rose Oil Rose oil is extracted from the flowers of the  Rosa x. damascene  Mill Rose oil is widely used as a fragrance in different types of cosmetic products (soaps, body lotions, face creams etc.) and also as a flavouring agent in food products such as jam, ice cream, pudding and yoghurt.

50. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Next to rose oil, rose absolute, rose water and rose concrete are important basic materials in cosmetic industries. For the production of 1 kg of rose oil 3500–4000 kilograms of rose flowers are necessary. Due to its expensive industrial production and also to high importance in the cosmetic industry, rose oil is often called “liquid gold” . The most common chemical compounds present in essential rose oil obtained from  R. damascene  are citronellol , geraniol , nerol , farnesol and androse oxide, which is a fragrance attributed to rose .

51. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Due to its antibacterial properties, it is very effective in moisturizing dry skin and it is often recommended for acne treatment. Rose oil cleanses the skin from bacteria that cause acnes and then hydrates the skin

52. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Tea Tree Oil Tea tree oil, also known as melaleuca oil, is the essential oil obtained by distillation from leaves and terminal branchlets of  Melaleuca alternifolia  (Maiden et Betche ) Cheel (narrow-leaf tea tree),  M. linariifolia  Smith (flax-leaf tea tree) or  M. dissitiflora  F. Muell (creek tea tree). Tea tree oil is a clear, colourless to pale yellow, volatile liquid and has a characteristic, intensive aromatic fresh camphoraceous odour .

53. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY α- Pinene , β- pinene , sabinene , myrcene , α- phellandrene , α- terpinene , limonene, 1,8-cineole, p-cymene, linalool, terpinen-4-ol and α- terpineol are the most common chemical compounds found in tea tree oil.  It has antiseptic, antifungal and anti-inflammatory properties and its dilution is used as a topical antiseptic for the treatment of acnes.

54. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Tea tree oil is also used in the treatment of fungal nail infections. It can be used as a chemical-free mouthwash since it helps to fight bad breath and dental plaque. Several studies suggest that tea tree oil might be effective against germs that cause tooth decay and bad breath.

55. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Protective Agent A class of agents used in prophylactic or curative therapy to attenuate the negative side effects of toxins or drugs. Protective agents belong to various chemical classes, acting through various pharmacological mechanisms. They may neutralize exogenous poisons, coat mucosa for protection against physical or chemical damage, offer antioxidant protection against free radicals or ionizing radiation, or induce endogenous detoxifying enzymes. 

56. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Aloe vera One of the most widely used herbal preparations for the treatment of various skin conditions is aloe gel obtained from Aloe vera (L.) Burm . f. or Aloe barbadensis Miller. ( Asphodelaceae ). This is the mucilaginous gel obtained from the cells making up the inner portion of the leaf, and should not be confused with the bitter yellow latex or juice that is derived from the pericyclic tubules occurring just beneath the epidermis of the leaves

57. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Aloes gel can be applied topically as an emollient for burns, sunburn and mild abrasion, and for inflammatory skin disorders . It has antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral , antioxidant, antihistamine and anti inflammatory effects. Aloe gel is also described in the popular literature as a cleanser, anaesthetic , antiseptic, antipyretic, antipruritic , nutrient, moisturizer and is said to promote cell proliferation. Extracts of A. vera possess activities that reverse the degenerative skin changes seen with aging by stimulating the synthesis of collagen and elastin fibres

58. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Oats People have been eating Avena sativa L. ( Graminae ) and oat products since the first century, but the therapeutic uses of oats are sparsely documented. Today, for a specific application, cosmetic chemists obtain better benefits by using oat fractions than by using entire oatmeal. These materials are safe and non-irritating, and have excellent cosmetic stability. Derived from natural renewable resources, they protect and repair the skin and hair from damaging environmental effects such as UVA/UVB irradiation, pollution, smoke, bacteria and free radicals and reduce discomfort, irritation and inflammation of the skin. They also help to repair damage from other chemicals such as AHA (alpha- hydroxy acids), surfactants and bleaches

59. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Oatmeal has a history of cosmetic use in facial masks and as an additive in bath soaps to relieve irritation or itching. It has been suggested for the treatment of geriatric dermatosis , eczema and sunburn because of its hypoallergenic properties

60. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Bran is described as colloidal oatmeal, and the FDA agrees that there is sufficient evidence supporting the general recognition of colloidal oatmeal as a safe and effective skin protectant based on its ability to impart both soothing, moisturizing and an anti irritating effect. Such properties may prove useful in skin treatment products, such as facial masks, facial scrubs and soap-free skin cleansers . Data from clinical studies indicate that oat extract serves as a powerful antiirritant against UV and chemically induced irritation. In vitro studies show that oat extract can significantly reduce the damage associated with UVA/UVB irradiation

61. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Oat flower has a moisturizing effect due to its lipid content and its hydrating characteristics. Hydrolysed oat protein , due to its low molecular weight, will penetrate the hair shaft and form a thin protective film on hair and skin. It is incorporated in baby cleansing products (shampoos, lotions, moisturizing baby bath, etc.), because of its moisturizing and antiirritant effect. Oat β- glucan is a linear unbranched high molecular weight polysaccharide, which can alleviate extrinsic signs of aging, protect against UV damage, stimulate metabolic activity, activate collagen synthesis, and improve the tensile strength of hair

62. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Borage oil Borage oil is obtained from Borago officinalis . This oil prompt skin cell action and encourage regeneration of the skin. Borage oil is rich in gamma- linoleic acid (GLA), making it helpful in curing the skin problems, especially hypersensitivities, dermatitis, irritation, and inflammation. Borage oil can penetrate through the skin effectively and benefits a wide range of skin, especially dry, mature, dehydrated, or premature aging skin.

63. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Evening primrose oil Evening primrose oil is obtained from the Oenothera biennis . It is normally yellow in color. This oil has a high level of GLA that advances healthful skin and repair of skin cells. It mitigates skin issues and irritation, making it a great option for individuals with skin inflammation, psoriasis, or any kind of dermatitis. Primrose oil prevents dry skin and untimely maturing of the skin.

64. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Avocado oil Avocado is also known as Persea americana . Avocado oil comprises Vitamin E, Vitamin D, β– carotene, protein, fatty acid, and lecithin. Avocado oil offers impressive advantages when added to formulations. From avocado oil to botanicals, for example, comfrey and rosemary, these herbal excipients alleviate and secure the skin

65. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Bleaching Agents The most commonly used bleaching agents are given below: Mercury Compounds : Mercuric chloride ( Hgcl ), red mercuric oxide ( HgO ) and ammoniated mercury are examples of mercury compounds that can be used, for their skin bleaching effects. Currently, the use of mercury compounds is prohibited in cosmetics.

66. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Hydroquinones : They are mostly used as bleaching agents for temporarily lighting skin at a concentration of 1.5%–2%. In the case of 5% concentration, redness and burning may be produced. Reverse action of hydroquinones takes place on exposure to sunlight. If the cosmetics containing hydroquinone are discontinued, then too, a similar effect can be observed.

67. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Catechol and its derivatives : Catechol exhibits skin lighting effect to an extent. 4- Isopropyl catechol has been found to be among the most potent depigmenting agents. They can produce irritation and a sensitization reaction at concentrations of 3% or more.

68. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Ascorbic Acid and its derivatives : Ascorbic acid does not seem to be very effective as a de-pigmenting agent, but its use has been found to be safe. It is mostly used in skin bleaching creams, which contain hydroquinone as a stabilizer (antioxidant). Ascorbyl oleate used in skin bleaching cream for bleaching freckles in human skin is used at a concentration of 3% and 5%.

69. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Arbutin Arbutin , a naturally occurring β- D - glucopyranoside derivative of hydroquinone, exists in the dried leaves of certain plant species, such as bearberry. Aloesin Aloesin , a compound isolated from the aloe plant, has been proven to competitively inhibit tyrosinase from human, mushroom, and murine sources. Hesperidin Hesperidin is a bioflavonoid existing extensively in the peel and membranes of citrus fruits. 

70. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Licorice extracts Licorice extracts have several active compounds that may stimulate or suppress melanogenesis . Niacinamide Niacinamide is a biologically active form of niacin (vitamin B3) found widely in many root vegetables and yeasts, and it is also an important precursor of NADH ( nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide ) and NADPH ( nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate).

71. VIGNAN INSTITUTE OF PHARMACEUTICAL TECHNOLOGY Antioxidants Natural antioxidants like tocopherols present in fats and oils are destroyed during the refining process. Hence, the addition of antioxidants is essential to avoid the rancidity of fats and oils in cosmetics due to oxidative deterioration. Some of the common antioxidants used in cosmetic preparation are: Amines : Purines and lecithin Phenols : Gallic acid, Methyl gallate Quinones : Tocopherols , Hydroxy chromans Alcohols : Sorbitol and Mannitol Esters : Di- lauryl thiopropionate Organic acids : Ascorbic acid

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