Sinew- a piece of tough fibrous tissue uniting muscle to bone Flax-5000 BC, Cotton-3000 BC, Worn by egyptian arlier than 2500 BC. Wool-3000 BC, Used by people of the Late Stone Age Silk-2600 BC, Began about 1725 BC Fiber …When did men came to know about it???
o ne of the oldest arts & crafts e arly civilization needs for clothing & shelter Learn twisting from grasses and plant stalks Earliest surviving evidence of fiber crafts from late upper paleolithic period. 1950- france - a clay carbonaceous imprint discovered – clearly distinguish the puffiness of the twist t he o rigins of fabric
The oldest example of textiles yet identified by archaeologists is at the Dzudzuana Cave in the former Soviet state of Georgia. There, a handful of flax fibers was discovered that had been twisted, cut and even dyed a range of colors . The fibers were radiocarbon-dated to between 30,000-36,000 years ago. Both sides of a fragment of a woven mat or basket container from Guitarrero
essential for shelter temporary assembled quickly & securely plaiting, twining, knotting, weaving walls, doors, rugs, hammocks early weaving & shelter
clothing display of power to frighten the enemy social approval early woven clothing
b irds nests s pider webs b eavers dams a nimal pouches i nspiration for fabric construction
Structural concept of loom evolved from the ancient methods of arranging yarn or plant material for finger weaving some form of basketry and netting. The most common was plain weave. Later they became inventive to find long float twill, basket weave twill etc Neolithic Textiles
h emp r affia leaf fibers hair wool fur sinew primitive materials
mummy cloths system of tablet/card weaving: warp- weighted Skilled dyers & embroiderers Evidence of the earliest knitting, using two needles, is believed to come from Egypt in the eleventh century, where more knitted socks were found. But from there we jump to thirteenth and fourteenth century Europe, particularly France, Germany and Britain. Fashionable knits were known in France as early as the 1420s high level of expertise until decline of Egypt second mil.BC
located between Tigris & Euphrates Sumerians & Babylonians weaving industry developed by the third millenium robes of Sumerian kings and priests Mesopotamian textile , Hermitage Museum Bhaktiyari motifs Mesopotamia
Babylonians replaced Sumerians about 1800 BC great emphasis on weaving & embroidery Babylonians embraced wovens with variety of material and yarns. Textiles were one of the most important trade goods in Mesopotamia. Babylonian textiles were thought to be the best. Bundles were tied to donkeys.
ancient fragments of wool and linen from 3000BC in Palestine wool was the most common fiber white wool & course wools or wool with mixtures of colors pure linen reserved for high priest only T he Hebrews
plain weaves, multicolor materials, & art-weavers capable of producing very complex yarns metallic yarns and dyeing techniques
textile arts valued highly tapestry weaving particularly important exquisite silk tapestries rich color and pattern border fragment, Period: 224 to 651 A.D. Warp: Material: linen, tan, Weft: Material: wool, dyed T extiles of Persia
very accomplished weavers warp-weighted loom wool & linen most popular later wool primarily for men & byssus for women equally skilled in fabric as mastery in other fields Women made blanket, table linen, Pazyryk carpet, and many other textile Greece
Romans considered weaving to be beneath them imported fabrics from Greece imported slaves for purpose of spinning, weaving, making garments for their households various weaving centers with variety in types of fabrics weaving in Rome
silk deemed as most precious emperess Hsi Ling shi & discovery of silk- while shipping tea under mulberry tree no need for spinning Sogdian silk 8 th century E arly weaving in the far east pre- buddhist china
specialized in extremely fine textiles and mastery of ikat also highly figurative weaves
peasant class of the Copts adopted Christianity Coptic art distinguished for its splendid textiles abstract, highly stylized forms later Christian elements and “story” content emerges T extiles in the early christian world
especially skilled at tapestry, mosaic style best known is woven medallion motif Coptic weavers pressed into service of Arabs
Roman capital moved to Byzantium, renamed Constantinople major center for silk textile manufacturing monks concealed silkworm eggs from China to Constantinople lavish figure weaves textiles of the early Christian world the Byzantine Empire
began entirely by hand first improvement method of holding warp yarns taut most basic form provides framework to hold warp rigid while weft is interlaced warp weighted loom with horizontal beam Greeks, Romans, Scandinavians, Indians of North & South America evolution of the loom
the backstrap loom tension could be controlled by shift of weight mostly wove with fingers more advanced use heddles and seperators to create sheds Indians of Peru during pre-Inca periods still used by native peoples of Southeast Asia and the Americas
horizontal ground looms provides a fixed support at both ends of the warp frees weaver physically from the loom pit loom in India tripod loom in Africa
horizontal frame loom known in ancient Egypt & China in principle it is identical to the common floor loom used today used in Europe, by 13 th century & Renaissance weavers the draw loom invented in China master weaver & assistant intricacy of pattern the jacquard loom first pattern loom on a mechanized system Joseph Marie Jacquard for French government in 1804 same principle as a piano or modern computer astonishingly fast and completely automatic
modern hand looms counterbalance loom harnesses operate in tandem: one harness is lowered and connecting is raised all warp yarns depart from horizontal jack loom each harness works independently 4 harnesses or more countermarch loom rising-shed loom as counterbalance harnesses work independently as jack however makes much larger shed upright loom different variations of structure excellent for tapestry popular in Navajo weavings table loom all weaving operations performed with the hands
by the end of 19 th interest in handcrafts vanished revival in 20 th century and also currently began with William Morris, the Bauhaus, Anni Albers, Art Deco 20 th century hand weaving
craftsman style flourished around the turn of 20 th century in England and also America American interest in hand weaving began in later part of 1920’s weaving pioneers: Mary Atwater, Anni Albers move to US, Lili Blumenau, Dorothy Liebes revival of hand weaving in the United States
growth of craft organizations throughout the US Industrial Revolution and Craft Revival in the South learned to be almost entirely self-sufficient folk handcrafts passes from generation to generation
ranges from completely hand woven without assistance of tools to almost entirely digitally woven greater availability and variety of materials due to technological advances contemporary weaving
Olga de Amaral
angharad mclaren
El Anatsui : Ghanian sculptor with woven structure
laurie addis
suzanne tick
gabriel dawe
other contemporary non-loom “woven” structures
Plain weave Twill weave Satin/sateen weave Pile weave Jacquard weave Dobby weave knits C ontemporary fabics in use