Ikat weaving and textile presentation.pdf

In this presentation I describe about introduction of ikat weaving, production place, process of weaving, types of ikat fabrics, comunity who weave, used fabrics, colors etc.

1. 
IKAT
Unraveling the threads of tradition.

2.  INTRODUCTION
▪The word Ikat is derived from the Malaysian word “Mengiikat”
that means to ‘bind or knot’.
▪It is a very ancient way of weaving that uses a resist dyeing
process similar to tie-dye on either the warp or weft before
the threads are woven to create a pattern or design.
▪Place of origin is Turkey and Afghanistan.
▪India "Ikat" is known as Bandhaof Orissa, patolaof Gujarat,
Pochampally in Andhra Pradesh.
▪Highly priced textiles in the world.

3. 
HISTORICAL ANALYSIS
▪It’s unclear where, exactly, ikatfabric first appeared, but it’s a
central cultural artifactof many East Asian, Southeast Asian,
Middle Eastern, and European civilizations.
▪After 17
th
century the art & skill of ikattextile have been found
to influence the greekcostumes.
▪In Central and South America, Ikat is still common in Argentina
Bolvia, Ecaudar, Gautemalaand Mexico.
▪Double Ikatscan still be found in India, Guatemala, Japan and
the Indonesian islands of Bali.
▪During early 12
th
century, Patola Cloth, a double ikatfrom
Gujarat, western India, used to be exported to Indonesia for
the use of the royal families.

4. 
CLASSIFICATION
1.
1.When both the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before
weaving the pattern or design is known as a Double
ikat. Double ikatis only produced in three countries:
India, Japan and Indonesia. It is formed when weft
and warp patterns overlap to produce a design.
2.When the warp are tie-dyed before weaving the
pattern or design is known as a Warp Ikat. The
pattern is clearly visible onto the loom. Produced in
Indonesia; more specifically in Kalimantan, Sulawesi,
and Sumatra .
3.When the weft are tie-dyed before weaving the
pattern or design is known as aWeft Ikat. Weft is the
vertical set of yarns running along the fabric. The
pattern only appears when the weaving proceeds.

5.  MOTIFS & PATTERNS OF IKAT
▪Motifs used in Gujarat are flowers, Jewellery, elephant, tiger, parrot, dancing woman,
beetle leaf. Other mofitsare lotus , Swastika, fish, Coiled serpent, Shankha, peacock,
dharma chakra, etc. Flower field pattern (phulvadibhat) –mostly used in double ikat.
Geometrical designs like squares with flowers or jewels are made for the Muslim
community.

6. 
COLORS FOR IKAT TEXTILE
▪The dyes used for ikatare extracted from variety of natural resources:-
▪Red-cochineal insect or from madder
▪Green-seedpods and flowers of the pagoda tree
▪Yellow-delphinium, saffron or larkspur
▪Pink-brazilwood
▪Black-skins of pomegranates, the black mallow plant
▪Indigo-indigo plant imported from India.

7. 
PLACE OF PRODUCTION
▪The areas of production in INDIA are Patan, Suratand Rajkot in
Gujrat; Pochampalli, Guntur and Chiralain Andhra Pradesh;
Sambalpur, Cuttack and Balasorein Orissa.
▪It is done in Asia-Pacific (China, Cambodia, India, Indonesia,
Japan, Malaysia, Philippines, Thailand, Tajikistanand
Uzbekistan),West Africa and Europe (Italy and Spain).
▪In western Orissa sub clusters like sambalpur, sonepur,
boudh,etc, ikatis produced by communities like Bhuliaassisted
by kosthaand kuli.

8. 
PROCESS
1.Preparing the yarn: prepare the yarn that will be used for weaving. The yarn is typically made from
natural fiberssuch as cotton, silk, or wool.
2.Marking the design:The design for the ikkatfabric is usually marked onto the yarn using a pencil or
other marking tool.
3.Binding the yarn:The next step is to bind or tie the parts of the yarn that will resist the dye. This is
typically done using a material such as wax, thread, or plastic.
4.Dyeing the yarn: The yarn is then immersed in a dye bath. The dye adheres to the exposed areas
of the yarn, creating the desired pattern.
5.Removing the binding material:After the yarn has been dyed, the binding material is removed to
reveal the pattern.
6.Weaving the fabric: The final step is to weave the dyed yarn into the final fabric. The weaving
process involves interlacing the dyed yarn with un-dyed yarn to create the finished product.

9. 
Overview of process
Tying and Binding
Dying
Spining Weaving
https://youtu.be/j8HyX3wqYYg?si=XeOHNnhrSoR2WXsb

10. 
INCREDIBLE INDIAN IKATS
IKAT FROM GUJRAT
▪In Gujarat, the designs are formed by tying and
dyeing both warp & weft yarns. This is called
double ikate.g. Patola.
▪Important places are-Patan, Surat, Ahmedabad,
Vadodra, Broach. Patan, Gujarat is most famous
for their double-ikats.
▪Popular motifs were flowers and jewels,
elephants, birds, and dancing women.
▪Weavers community are the Salvi communityof
Gujrat. Six to ten inches of fabric are woven each
day-that of a sari takes one month.
▪Most intricate double ikatdesign are in ikatsof
Gujarat.

11. 
IKAT FROM ORISSA
▪Weavers community are the Meher’sandPatra’scommunity
of Orissa.
▪Important places are -Bhubaneswar, Nuapatna, Sambalpur,
Bolangir, Bargh, Sonepur, Berhampur, andBoudh.
▪Motifs are very clear and unique for its GitagovindaScript
inscription called “PHETA”.
▪Orissa is famous for its silk Ikat weaves created by an intricate
process called the "Bandha" in which warp and weft threads
are tie-dyed to produce the pattern on the loom while
weaving.
▪Typical design motifsinclude rows of birds and animals, fish,
seashells, rudrakshbeadsand temple spires.While
Sambalpuris famous for its double-ikattextiles, Sonepuris
known for its gold embroideredones.

12. 
IKAT FROM ANDHRA PRADESH
▪Weavers community are the Debanga, Dera, orPadmashali
community of Andhra Pradesh.
▪Important places are -Pochampally, Koyalgudam, Siripuram,
Chautupal, Putapakka, Elanki.
▪Motifs are not very clear. Ikat production in these areas started in
20th century.
▪The oldest centeris Chirala, which is most famous for the
production of teliarumals, a square shaped patterned cloth.
These rumalsare dyed with traditional alizarin dyes. Sesame oil
is used in dyeing.
▪These rumalsare used by the Muslim men to tie on their heads
and are exported to Middle East, Africa, Pakistan, Bangladesh
and Burma.
Only three colorsare traditionally used --red, black, and white.

13. 
IKAT ARTICLES
▪Scarves, dupatta, shawls, sari, blouse and headscarves are all common
applications of ikatin accessories. Of course shoes, purses, bags, belts, and other
items may also bear ikatpatterns, but these designs may simply be printed. Ikat
used in homedecoregpillowcase, table cloth, cushion, bedsheet, wall hangings.

14. 
IKAT ARTICLES

15.  IKAT IN CLOTHING

16. 
NAME OF DESIGNERS WHO WORKED ON IKAT TEXTILE.
1. GaurangShah
2. Rajesh Pratapsingh
3. Suketdhir
4. Anita Dongre
5. Abraham and thakore
6. MadhuJain
7. Ritukumar
8. Taruntahiliyani
9. Amit Aggarwal
10. SharvanGajam

17. 
MADHU JAIN
▪MadhuJain is an Indian textile designer. She
grew up in Old Delhi. In 2018 she was awarded
the NariShakti Puraskarafter 30 years in fashion.
▪Jain has also been instrumental in innovating new
weaves and in reviving textiles and embroidery-
notably, Nakshikanthaand Dhaka Muslin-that
were lost to India post-partition.
▪She harmoniously blended her signature work of
Ikat traditions from Indonesia, Uzbekistan, and
India with the bamboo textile.
▪Over the last 15 years, Jain’s experiments with
alternative fibres led her to bamboo.
▪Through NGOs and self-help groups, Jain’s work
in eco-fashion and sustainable production is
ensuring markets for weavers.

18. 
ABOUT HER COLLECTION
▪MadhuJain's collection showcased at Amazon India Fashion Week took the Ikat
weaving craft style to another level. It reflected the blending of several cultures that
straddles geographies, from Odisha andAndhra Pradesh inIndia, to Thailandand
Uzbekistan.
▪The collection included figurative and geometrical patterns. The outfits were crafted
with the Thai weft style of Matmior Mudmeeas the main weave. MudmeeIkat
blended with the Odisha Ikat, Andhra Ikat weaves, etc.
▪The collection included a few embellishments and embroidered garments that were
created in autumnal colourssuch as soft buff, flamboyant amber, chestnut, burnt
umber and cerise.
▪However, the head turner of the event was the showstopper'soutfit worn by former
FeminaMiss India Ruchi Makhni. Jain pointed out that it was created 15 years ago.

19. 
AMAZON INDIA FASHION WEEK 2018
https://youtu.be/xg_KKuSMOjE?si=OMDEjlAA -XWoPQv5

20. 
MADHU JAIN’S COLLECTION