Lesson1-Shampoo.ppt

Lesson about shampoo

1. Shampoo
How to formulate solutions

2. Lesson Topics
•Shampoo Market Overview
•Consumer Problems
•Surfactant Science
•Formulating a shampoo
•Testing

3. Lesson Objectives
•Shampoo Market Overview
–Introduce the shampoo market
•Consumer Problems
–Explain the problems shampoo formulas are designed to fix
•Surfactant Science
–Discuss surfactant properties
–How they are relevant to cosmetics
•Formulating a solution
–Dissect a shampoo formula
–Explaining what ingredients are used and why
•Testing
–Explain how to test a shampoo

4. Shampoo

5. Shampoos
•Solution cosmetic designed to clean hair
and leave it a more manageable state
•Solutions -one of the simplest types of
cosmetic formulas

6. Shampoo Market
•Overall Market
–Hair care market estimated ~ $40 Billion
worldwide
–Amount of money spent in US on
Shampoo/conditioner
•$2.26 billion (Food, Drug, Mass market)*
*Does not include Walmart

7. US Top Brands
BRAND
•Pantene –P&G
•Head & Shoulders –P&G
•Herbal Essences –P&G
•Suave -Unilever
•Garnier (Fructis) –L’Oreal
•Tresemme –Alberto Culver
•Matrix (Biolage) –L’Oreal
•L'Oreal (Vives) –L’Oreal
•Dove -Unilever
•Private Label
•John Frieda -Kao
$ MARKET SHARE
•16
•7.6
•7.5
•6.9
•6.6
•4.0
•3.9
•3.8
•3.3
•3.3
•3.2
*Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009

8. US Top Brands
BRAND
•Suave -Unilever
•Pantene –P&G
•VO5 –Alberto Culver
•Herbal Essences –P&G
•Garnier (Fructis) –L’Oreal
•Head & Shoulders –P&G
•L'Oreal (Vives) –L’Oreal
•Tresemme –Alberto Culver
Units sold (millions)
•20.9
•19.5
•11.8
•11.5
•10.6
•7.5
•5.4
•5.2
*Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009

9. Shampoo Market
•Types of shampoo (marketing)
–Normal
–Extra body (volumizing, thickening, etc)
–Moisturizing (smoothing, shine, restore)
–Strengthening
–Curl
–2 in 1
–Color treated
–Color Enhancing
–Baby (tear-free)
–Natural

10. Shampoo Market
•Specialty
–Anti-dandruff
–Anti-lice
–Hair loss treatments
•Significantly Different
–Powdered shampoos
–No-rinse shampoo
–Co-washing

11. Consumer Problems
•Clean hair / oil removal
•Moisturize
•Easier to comb
•Prevent frizz
•Shine
•Volume
•Medicated
–Anti-dandruff
–Anti-lice
–Hair loss

12. Addressing the problems
Problem
•Clean hair / oil removal
•Moisturize
•Easier to comb
•Prevent frizz
•Shine
•Volume
•Medicated
–Anti-dandruff
–Anti-lice
–Hair loss
Technology
•Surfactants
•Conditioning agents
–Anti-dandruff agents
–Acaracides
–Minoxidyl

13. Surfactant Science

14. Surfactants
•Defined
–Molecules compatible with water & oil
–Surfactant = Surface Active Agent

15. Surfactant Molecule
Hydrophilic = Lipophobic
Hydrophobic = Lipophilic

16. Surfactant in solution
•Reduces surface tension
•Helps disperse oil in water (or water in oil)
•Forms micelles to suspend particles

17. Surfactant
•Typical surfactant mixture
–Surfactant is mixed with oil
–Lipophilic tails orient with oil
–Polar heads orient with water
–Micelles are created
•Micelle formation
•Critical Micelle Concentration

18. Surfactant Solutions
•Depending on concentration different
structures are formed
•Simple shampoos are basically surfactant
solutions (no oils)

19. Surfactant Structures

20. Surfactant Functions
•Key in Shampoos
–Cleaning / Detergency
–Wetting
–Dispersing
–Foaming
–Thickening
–Conditioning
•Other functions
–Emulsification
–Solubilization
–Penetration enhancement
–Antimicrobial activity
–Opacification

21. Detergency
•Two types of “dirt” in hair
–Solid particulate
–Oily deposits
•Solid particulates
–From pollution, hair products
–Adhere via Van der Waals forces
–Anionics & non-ionics increase hydrophylicity of
surface

22. Detergency
•How surfactants remove liquids
–Remove dirt & grease from surfaces
–Mechanism
•Surfactant orients along oil/water interface
•This lifts oil off surface suspending in solution
•Rinse water removes the oil micelle

23. Wetting
•Breaks down the inherent surface tension
of water
•Water with surfactant can spread better on
the hair
Without Surfactant With Surfactant

24. Dispersing
•Particles are suspended in the shampoo /
water solution
•They are removed upon rinsing

25. Foaming
•Air is dispersed in a continuous liquid
medium
•Air bubbles are surrounded by thin layers
of liquid films
•Foam doesn’t contribute much to removal
of dirt
–Consumers like foam but it doesn’t really
mean the product cleans better

26. Thickening
•Viscosity of surfactant solution can be
affected by
–Concentration of surfactant
–Salt concentration
–pH

27. Types of Surfactants
•Anionic
–Negatively charged
•Amphoteric (Zwitterionic)
–capable of both positive & negative charges
•Cationic
–Positively charged
•Nonionic
–No charge

28. Anionic Surfactants
•These are the primary shampoo
surfactants
•Alkyl Sulfates
–Examples -SLS
•Alkyl Ether Sulfates
–Example –ALES
•Alpha –Olefin Sulfonates
–Examples

29. Anionic Surfactants
•Other types
–Sulfosuccinates
–Alkylbenzene Sulfonates
–Acyl Methyltaurates
–Acyl Sarcosinates
–Acyl Isethionates
–Acyl Polypeptide Condensates
–Monoglyceride Sulfates
–Fatty Glyceryl Ether Sulfonates

30. Anionics
•Why use them?
–Excellent detergency
–Relatively inexpensive
–Good foaming
–Highly stable
•Drawbacks
–Can be irritating
–Drying to hair

31. Amphoteric Surfactants
•Can have a positive or negative charge
depending on the pH of the solution
•Zwitterionic
•Types
–Cocamidopropyl Betaine
–Cocoamphopropionate
–Sodium Lauraminopropionate

32. Amphoteric Surfactants
•Why use them?
–Good Detergency
–Less Irritating than anionics
–Helps thicken system
–Helps improve foam
•Drawbacks
–More expensive
–Do not foam well enough on their own

33. Non Ionic Surfactants
•Surfactant molecules with no charge
•Types
–Fatty Alkanolamides
•Lauramide DEA
•Cocamide DEA
–Amine Oxides
•Lauramine Oxide
•Stearamine Oxide

34. Non Ionic Surfactants
•Why use them?
–Foam enhancer
–Reduce irritation
–Increase viscosity
–Conditioning effect
–Anti-static effect
–Solubilize fragrances
–Baby Shampoos
•PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate
•Drawbacks
–Safety issues
–More expensive
–Do not foam well on their own

35. Cationics
•Positively charged surfactant molecules
•Types
–Cetrimonium Chloride
–Stearylalkonium Chloride
•Not used for shampoos
–Don’t clean as well
–Don’t rinse as well
–Don’t foam as well

36. Shampoo Formulations

37. Shampoo Characteristics
•Aesthetics
–Appearance
•Clear
•Pearlized
–Thickness (Viscosity)
•Foam
–Creamy, rich to thin & loose
•Harshness
•Conditioning effects

38. Basic types of Shampoos
•Normal
•Volumizing
•Moisturizing
•2 in 1
•Baby
•Natural

39. Shampoo Type Comparison
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
N orma l
Extra Bo d y
Mo ist uri zi ng
2 i n 1 Ba by
N at ura l
Rating (10 best)
Foam Quality
Conditioning
Harshness Shampoo Performance

40. Shampoo Formula
•Water
•Surfactant
•Secondary Surfactant
•Preservative
•Conditioning agent
•Color
•Fragrance
•Feature Ingredients
•Specialty ingredients

41. Shampoo Formula
•Secondary Surfactant
–Modify viscosity
–Improve foam
–Reduce irritation
•Aesthetic ingredients
–Opacifying agent
–Clarifying agents
–Colorants

42. Shampoo Formula
•Conditioning agents
–Silicones
–Cationic polymers
•Preservatives
•Fragrance
•Feature Ingredients
•Formula Adjusters
–Acid
–Chelating agents

43. Cosmetic Formula sheet

44. Normal Shampoo Formula

45. Activity of Ingredients
•Many raw materials are sold diluted
•% Solids = Raw material –water
•Eg. ALS sold as 28% solids
•32% of the supplied raw material is only ~9%
solid ALS
•% Active is usually synonymous with % Solids

46. Volumizing Shampoo Formula

47. Volumizing Shampoo
•Higher level of surfactant
•Volumizing polymer (optional)
–Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride

48. Moisturizing Shampoo Formula

49. Moisturizing Shampoo
•More gentle detergents
•Added conditioning ingredients
–Polyquaternium-7
–Dimethicone Copolyol
•Pearlized –(optional)
–Glycol Stearate

50. 2-in-1 Shampoo Formula

51. 2 in 1 Shampoo
•Added conditioning ingredients
–Dimethicone
–Polyquaternium-10
•Pearlized
–Glycol Stearate
•Stabilizing agent (optional)
–Carbomer

52. Baby Shampoo Formula

53. Baby Shampoo
•More mild detergent system
•Compromise qualities for mildness
–Foam
–Detergency
–Conditioning
•Minimize fragrance

54. Natural Shampoo Formula

55. Natural Shampoo
•Sulfate free detergent
•“Gentle” preservatives
–No Parabens
–No DMDM Hydantoin
•Natural extract ingredients
•Synthetic fragrance free?

56. Making the batch

57. Equipment
•Beakers
•Mixers
•Thermometer
•Stand
•Hot plate
•Scale
•Weigh boats
•Plastic wrap

58. Formulating Equipment

59. Shampoo Batching tips
•Cover batch with plastic wrap
•Record time, temp, changes
•Pre-weigh ingredients
•Weigh container prior to making batch
–Compensate for water loss
•Take specification readings at the end
–Adjust as needed
–

60. Shampoo testing
•QA/QC Tests
•Performance Tests

61. Shampoo testing
•QA/QC Tests
•Specifications
–Viscosity
–pH
–Appearance
–Odor

62. Shampoo testing
•Use Tests
–Try product yourself
–Panel testing

63. Shampoo testing
•Tress testing
–Combing
–Feel / Softness
–Shine

64. Shampoo testing
•Foam testing
–Blender
–Shake test

65. Shampoo testing
•Safety testing
–Patch testing
–Irritation tests

66. Shampoo Stability testing

67. Shampoo Summary
•Shampoo Market Overview
–Big compared to other cosmetics
•Consumer Problems
–Cleansing, conditioning primary problems
•Surfactant Science
–Makes oil & water more compatible
–Responsible for cleaning hair
•Formulating shampoos
–6 types of shampoos
•Testing
–Use tests, lab tests, and QC tests

68. Shampoos