Milady ch 15 shampoo scalp care

Scalp care, shampoo & condition

1. SCALP CARE, SHAMPOOING & CONDITIONING Scalp care. Chemistry. Products.

2. AGENDA TUESDAY- Why? Scalp care & scalp treatments WEDNESDAY- Hair brushing; Scalp analysis; Shampoo selection THURSDAY-pH & Types of water FRIDAY- Experience/retail; Conditioning

3. One of the most important experiences that a stylist provides is the shampoo It is the first time you are truly touching & impacting your guest The shampoo sets the mood for the entire service: great shampoo experience can outweigh the service itself 3 Processes: Scalp care, massage & shampoo/condition

4. THE WHY? The shampoo service is the first opportunity to reinforce your position as a professional by attending to specific & individual needs Being able to examine, identify, and address hair and scalp conditions allows you to choose correct product or a referral to see a doctor Thorough knowledge of hair care products allows you to determine hair care products, as well chemical services & a at home routine

5. SCALP CARE & MASSAGE The two basic requirements for a healthy scalp are cleanliness and stimulation. Treatments should be given with a continuous, even motion that stimulates scalp and relaxes client.

6. Given before shampoo Given during shampoo Relaxation or treatment- only difference is the products used Knowing the muscles, the location of blood vessels, and the nerve points of the scalp/ neck will help guide you to those areas that benefit from massage movements. Contraindications- medical conditions like High blood pressure or diabetes that can prohibit the service Be aware of pressure used based off scalp sensitivity SCALP TREAMENTS

7. SCALP TREAMENTS NORMAL DRY OILY Purpose: maintain scalp & hair health/cleanliness Performed after a full scalp examination Purpose: natural oil deficient Contains moisturizing & emollients Avoid strong soaps; greasy product, lotions, high alcohol Use a scalp steamer Purpose: flush excess sebum out with gentle pressing/squeezing Caused from overactive sebaceous glands Over shampooing

8. SCALP TREAMENTS Cause: a fungus called malassezia Purpose: to suppress the growth of Malassezia and loosen scalp scales -ANTI-DANDRUFF

9. REVIEW- TUESDAY What is the most important experience we provide? How does the shampoo set the mood for the entire service? What is the 3 step process? What are some things to look for ( NOT ASK FOR ) during a consultation? What are the 2 requirements for a healthy scalp? What are the benefits to a scalp treatment? What fungus causes dandruff?

10. HAIRBRUSHING Correct hair brushing: Stimulates the blood circulation to the scalp Helps remove dust, dirt, and hair-spray/product buildup Gives hair added shine. Is included with every shampoo and scalp treatment!!! Allows the stylist to examine the scalp for abrasions and infections *Rotate brush by turning wrist slightly and sweeping bristles full length of hair shaft EXCEPTIONS: Avoid before Chemicals Avoid if scalp is irritated Avoid if abrasion or parasites are present

11. HAIRBRUSHES Natural bristles: most highly recommended to clean and add luster to the hair Nylon bristles: shiny, smooth, and more suitable for hairstyling BOTH

12. SCALP ANAYLIS- Things to look for Dry, dehydrated hair Thinning of the hair Excessive hair in sink Dry, tight scalp Oily scalp Abnormal flaking on scalp Open wounds or scalp irritations Scalp disorders or disease Tick or lice infestation

13. SHAMPOO SELECTION As a professional, you must become skilled at selecting shampoos that support the health of the hair, whether the hair is natural, color-treated, fine and limp, or coarse and wiry. Product knowledge is critical (read labels).

14. SELECTION CONSIDERATIONS Hair type: dry, oily, normal, chemically treated- Remember you can have an oily scalp & dry hair!! Hair condition: overprocessed , chemically treated, damaged by harsh products or improper care, exposure to elements; virgin hair Home maintenance – EDUCATE your guest pH-balanced shampoos

15. REVIEW- WEDNESDAY Why do we need to brush our hair? Why is brushing the hair a good opportunity for us as stylist? When should you NOT brush? What are the 2 types of brushes discussed in this chapter? What are some things to look for during a scalp analysis? What is product knowledge important? What are some examples of hair types?

16. POTENTIAL HYDROGEN -pH The small p represents a quantity. The capital H represents the hydrogen ion. The amount of hydrogen in a solution is measured on a logarithmic scale ranging from 1 to 14. Acid: 0 to 6.9 pH Neutral: 7.0 pH Alkaline: 7.1 to 14 pH

17. 9 Clean Maniac HighLift Hardwear16 Sculpting spray 4 Anti Snap Ringlet Rebel Tame 7 5.50 All soft Color Extend pH SCALE LOGARITHMIC- Measures the ACIDITY & ALKALINITY We alter the pH with every service; IMPORTANT to understand the strength of a product to maintain integrity of the hair pH balanced shampoo- 4.5-5.5 ACIDIC ALKALINE Beach envy Air Dry

18. CHEMISTRY OF WATER- Purification Sedimentation Filtration Chlorine added Boiling & Distilling 212*

19. CHEMISTRY OF WATER Soft water- rain water or chemically softened Hard water- well water; high amounts of minerals: Copper oxidizes green ( statue of liberty) Iron oxidizes red/orange ( rust ) Calcium build up- prohibits moisture; clogs follicle, brittle, hair loss Magnesium helps regulate calcium BUT too much prohibits lather

20. THE CHEMISTRY TO SHAMPOO Understanding the ingredients allows you to choose the right shampoo for your guest hair type, texture & scalp Ingredients are listed from most abundant to least: Water is main ingredient. Surfactant ( detergent ) is the second Water- Deionized/Purified Surfactant Molecule (surface active agent) – Hydrophilic end – Lipophilic end

21. THE CHEMISTRY OF SHAMPOO The hydrophilic head attracts water The lipophilic tail attracts oil. Creates a push/pull that causes the oils, dirt, and deposits to roll up into little balls That are lifted off in the water and rinsed from the hair Other common additives: Moisturizer- adds moisture to dry hair or promote the retention of moisture, oil, protein, preservative, foam enhancer, and perfume.

22. TYPES OF SHAMPOOS pH-balanced- 4.5-5.5 The list of ingredients is your key to determining : Shine and manageability Treat a scalp or hair condition Prepare the hair for a chemical treatment Conditioning- Protein & Biotin Medicated- Not color treated Clarifying- Chelating

23. Balancing- Oily hair AND scalp TYPES OF SHAMPOOS CONTINUED Dry or powder- Cleansing powder/absorbs oil Color-enhancing- Temp color rinse For hairpieces and wigs- Wig cleansing solution

24. REVIEW- THURSDAY What does pH stand for? What does logarithmic mean? What is the pH of pH balanced shampoo? What are the ways to purify water? What are the 2 types of water? What is the most abundant ingredient in shampoo? The detergent is a ______________molecule

25. A GREAT SHAMPOO EXPIERENCE Adjust for any special accommodations ( special needs, elderly, child ) Massage for client preference. Adjust water temperature for client choice. Don’t wet client’s face. Double-check nape area. Do not drench towel around neck. Blot hair, not face. Give relaxation massage. Even if they are watching you

26. SHAMPOOING & RETAILING Use the shampoo time to better establish your professional relationship with the client and promote quality products for at-home use. During the shampoo give clients information about what you are doing and why.

27. UNDERSTANDING CONDITIONERS Deposit protein and moisturizer Restore strength and give body Protect against breakage Types Rinse-out Treatment or repair Leave-in

28. FORMULATION- Seal cuticle; not a cure- just a “band aid” Silicone – Reflects light, speed up dry time, creates barrier Moisture-binding humectants - Absorb moisture in air Emollients- soften & moisturize Synthetic polymers- thickening agent ( less runny then shampoo ) Proteins- Penetrate cortex

29. OTHER CONDITIONING AGENTS Spray-on thermal protectors Scalp conditioners Medicated scalp lotions Scalp astringent lotions

30. DEEP CONDITIONING TREATMENTS Also known as masks or conditioning packs Mixtures of concentrated protein in a heavy cream base of a moisturizer Penetrate the cuticle layer Used when an equal degree of moisturizing and protein is required

31. DRAPING Client must be properly draped for each service. Shampoo (wet) draping: two terry towels used, one under cape and one over; replaced with neck strip and cape Chemical-service draping: two terry towels used, one under cape and one over, which remain during service

32. 3 PART PROCEDURE- EVERY GUEST. EVERY TIME Pre-service: preparation- Sanitary Maintenance Area Service: practical service on client Post-service: caring for client after service and clean-up S.M.A. SERVICE CLEAN UP

33. REVIEW-FRIDAY What makes for a good shampoo experience? What is something NOT to do during a shampoo? What is a tip for selling retail? What are the 3 types of conditioner? Which conditioner can penetrate the cortex? What is the 3 part procedure?