Milady ch 20 Perms Relaxers

Milady Ch 20 Chemical Services

1. MILADY CHEMICAL TEXTURE SERVICES Perms. Relaxers. Hair Structure. Chemistry. pH. Steps & Precautions .

2. (continues) DAY 1- History, Consult, Structure DAY 2- Chemistry, Types, Relaxers DAY 3- Relaxers & Review

3. (continues) Chemical texture services allow you to offer clients options to change the texture of their hair and explore the fashionable world of hairstyling. Knowing how to perform these services accurately, safely, and professionally will help build a trusting and loyal clientele Builds confidence with other Chemical services Chemical services are the most lucrative and repetitive with many retail products specific to hair’s texture and condition. A thorough understanding of chemistry allows you to choose correct chemical & strength while maintaining safety and integrity of the hair

4. What used to take 4-6 hours now only take 20 Min to process We now use Chemical reactions VS Electrical reactions Highly caustic soda heated to 212 degrees was replaced with ATG & body heat Sodium Hydroxide Cow Urine- Amm /Sulfur Less chemical burns &hair loss THEN + NOW

5. 1901-1910 Karl/ Charles Nessler Ralph Evans, Everett McDonough ( machine less perm / Over night perm) 1930s 1938- Arnold Willat Cold wave ( precursor to modern perm )

6. D. E. P. T. H. HAIR & SCALP ANALYSIS E N S I T Y LASCITY OROSITY EXTURE ISTORY

7. Permanent waving Relaxing Curl re-forming/ Jheri Curl CHEMICAL TEXTURE SERVICES

8. STRUCTURE OF THE HAIR SHAFT 3 main layers of the hair shaft

9. How Chemical Services Affect the Structure of Hair Cuticle – tough outer layer of hair; surrounds the inner layers and protects hair from damage (continues) Courtesy of P&G Beauty from John Grey's, The World of Hair Care. Courtesy of P&G Beauty from John Grey's, The World of Hair Care.

10. STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR SHAFT Closed, healthy, low pH Slightly raised, any change in pH ( water, chemicals, products) Damaged, open Chemicals, heat environment CUTICLE Hydrophilic; translucent

11. STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR SHAFT - CUTICLE 4-8. 9-13. Up to 18

12. STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR SHAFT CORTEX Melanin 90 % weight Chemical changes Protein in cortex provides elasticity Cuticle scales are attached to the cortex- CROSS SECTION

13. STRUCTURES OF THE HAIR SHAFT Fine and or blond hair may not have one; not involved in salon services. Full, fragmented, missing MEDULLA

14. pH – POTENTIAL HYDROGEN & IONIZATION 7 is NEUTRAL Water CLOSES CUTICLE OPENS CUTICLE Measures the acidity & alkalinity of a product ( strength ) Have to have water to be measured on pH scale CATION- positive + HYDROGEN ANION- Negative - HYDROXIDE

15. LOGARITHMIC - Change in 10 fold , , 7.0-9.6 Thio- free Ammonia Free Acid Balanced 6.5-7 Low pH 4.5-7 True Acid 9.0-9.6 Exothermic Alkaline/Cold 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 Change in Number represents multiples of 10 pH Scale allows you to understand the true strength of the product compared to the hair Ammonia & Relaxers are 100 million times more alkaline than hair

16. Amino acids – compounds made of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur Peptide (end) bonds – chemical bonds that join amino acids together end-to-end in long chains to form polypeptide chains (continues) Building Blocks of Hair

17. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR Keratin protein makes up about 97% of the hairs structure ; made up of AMINO ACIDS that are made up of ELEMENTS - Different combinations of elements make up the Amino Acids 51% 21% 6% 17% 5% Makes up human hair and is also found in skin & nails

18. Makes up C.O.H.N.S; Interactions make everything!!

19. 18 amino acids that make up keratin Groups of Elements; Responsible for ALL changes that take place in the hair

20. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR KERATIN PROTEINS are made up long chains of AMINO ACIDS that are joined together end to end like pop beads Most prevalent AMINO ACIDS in hair Amino acids used to make protein AMINO ACIDS make the protein KERATIN CREATED BY SULFUR ATOMS ( DISULFIDE BOND )

21. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR AMINO ACIDS LINK TOGETHER POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS are made up of AMINO ACIDS that are COVALENTLY bonded like beads on a string This covalent bond holds the AMINO ACIDS together & is called a PEPTIDE BOND or END BOND AMINO ACID PEPTIDE/ END BOND POLYPEPTIDE CHAIN

22. ACID (+) AMINE TAIL ( -) PEPTIDE/ END BOND POLYPEPTIDE CHAIN HOW HAIR FORMS

23. SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX CORTEX/ CORTICAL CELLS Millions of polypeptide chains SALT DISULFIDE HYDROGEN SIDE BONDS give the hair its strength and elasticity Apart of all styling & chemical services These POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS link together

24. Polypeptide chains twisting Weakest; simplest atom Weak; ionic; sodium & chlorine Strongest; chemical Covalent

25. Strongest; chemical Covalent Non Essential Amino Non Essential Amino CYSTINE oxidation of cysteine 4% of protein; accounts for 90% of hairs strength All permanent changes happen to the cystine link Every 4 turns

26. VS.

27. HAIR STRUCTURE- Bonds in the hair SIDE BONDS HYDROGEN- STYLING BOND Physical bond Broken & reformed with styling SALT- PH BOND Physical bond Broken by change in PH DISULFIDE – CHEMICAL Chemical bond Broken by a chemical change Strongest Permanently changed

28. SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX HYDROGEN HYDROGEN BONDS are a weak, physical bond that is easily broken by water or heat Accounts for 1/3 of hairs strength Weakest but most abundant STYLING BOND

29. SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX SALT PRODUCT BOND SALT BONDS are a weak, temporary bond that can be broken by change in pH 1/3 hairs strength

30. SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX DISULFIDE CHEMICAL BOND DISULFIDE BONDS are a strong, chemical bond Joins 2 sulfur atoms from the CYSTEINE amino acid Forms a covalent bond Strongest but fewest in the hair 1/3 hairs strength Broken by chemical change like perming/ relaxing LANTHIONINE BONDS are made when hydroxide relaxers break then convert disulfide bonds, when rinsed Lanthionine is 1 SULFUR ATOM; Disulfide is 2

31. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR KERATIN PROTEINS are long coiled POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS made of amino acids 50 amino acids make a protein that starts to spiral called a HELIX The spirals intertwine with each other to form a HELIX COIL HELIX COIL POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS

32. MICRO- FIBRIL 7 – fine 8 – medium 9- coarse

33. MACRO-FIBRILS ( CORTEX) 100s micro fibrils

34. Perms are a 2 step process PHYSICAL- breaks Hydrogen & Salt Bonds CHEMICAL- breaks Disulfide Bonds

35. RODS Types, diameter, length CURL EXAMPLE SPIRAL/FLEXI ROD 12 inches long CONCAVE/ STRAIGHT LENGTH/DIAMETER LOOP/SPIRAL Size/Shape determines size/shape of curl. Wrapped AT LEAST 2 ½ times for a full curl

36. End Papers- Protect porous ends, controls subsection, prevents fish hooks 1 top 1 on bottom Most control Great for long hair & layers 1 on top Least control Best for 1 LENGTHS 1 folded in half Horizontally or Vertically Be careful of pinching ends DOUBLE FLAT BOOKEND SINGLE FLAT

37. Sectioning for a Perm Panels – size, shape, and direction of panels vary based on type of wrapping pattern and type and size of tool. Base sections – subsections of a panel based on size of tool.

38. ON BASE HALF ON BASE OFF BASE BASE PLACEMENT- stay consistent & remember shape of the head Angle at which hair is held from head, determines volume Most volume Medium volume Least volume

39. Base Direction The angle at which the tool is positioned and the directional wrap pattern DIRECTIONAL PATTERN; Be aware of NATURAL GROWTH PATTERNS ( EXCESS STRESS )

40. Wrapping Patterns- Base Base control - 2 Aspects: Size of base in relation to diameter of tool Position of tool in relation to the base (continues)

41. Wrapping Techniques Croquignole – hair wrapped from ends to scalp in overlapping concentric layers (continues)

42. Spiral – hair wrapped at an angle to form a coil (like the grip of a tennis racket); UNIFORM curl Wrapping Techniques (continued)

43. Wrapping Patterns Double-rod wrap Piggy back (continues) Basic wrap Straight set

44. Wrapping Patterns (continues) Weave Curvature

45. Bricklay permanent wrap Wrapping Patterns continued)

46. Wrapping Patterns continued)

47. Partial Perms Used when the entire head is not permed Hair long on top, but short and close on sides Some hair too short to wrap on rods Sleek crown and curly perimeter desired Volume desired in certain areas only Transition using a weave technique from curly section to straight

48. Perms for Men Many men are looking for added texture, fullness, style, and low maintenance that only a perm can provide. Perms look fuller, make straight or coarse hair more manageable, and help control stubborn cowlicks. Techniques are the same for men and women.

49. Chemistry of Permanent Waving Alkaline solutions soften and swell the hair and open the cuticle. Acid solutions result in far less swelling of the hair than alkaline solutions.

50. CHEMISTRY- How perms work Reduction Reaction; Also known as REDOX Comes from the Waving Lotion Is responsible for breaking the DISULFIDE bond by adding hydrogen( in Waving Lotion ) Electron Capacity is responsible FOR ALL REDUCTIONS Hydrogen Reduction Reaction means adding hydrogen or oxygen

51. Reduction Reaction Waving lotion adds Hydrogen- this substance is also known as a REDUCING AGENT Adding Hydrogen REDUCES the sulfur atoms that make the Disulfide bond Different types and amounts of REDUCING AGENTS determine strength of perm CHEMISTRY- How perms work

52. REDUCING AGENTS CHEMISTRY- How perms work Thio compounds : Mercaptan/ Thiol- Hydrogen & Sulfur joined together Strength of solutions: determined by concentration/ amount of thio ( amount of hydrogen & sulfur atoms ) Thioglycolic acid : Perm Salt; Colorless liquid; CAUSES REDUCTION in perm solutions; breaks cross links; Allows keratin to move freely Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG): main ingredient in alkaline perms; Free ammonia that causes swelling Perm pH: second factor in solution strength

53. REDUCING AGENTS CHEMISTRY- How perms work THIOGLYCOLIC ACID – Adds HYDROGEN; Acid is lower pH so you need AMMONIUM THIOGLYGOLATE ( ATG ) swells the hair and open cuticle so ACID can break the Disulfide Bonds- THIO/THIOL AMMONIA

54. Makes up C.O.H.N.S; Interactions make everything!!

55. Types of Permanent Waves (continues)

56. MOST COMMONLY USED PERMS Resistant, normal, gray & white hair Strong true to rod curl Faster processing Strong, tight curl pH 8.2-9.6 Resistant, normal, fine hair Firm, long lasting curl Creates heat pH 9-9.6 3 Components Activator has Hydrogen Peroxide Tinted, 50% highlighted hair Less damage Softer curl pH 4.5-6.5

57. TYPES OF PERMS Acid Wave: GMT Lower pH Less Thio Less Disulfide broken May need heat True Acid Wave: 3 Components GMT- in activator pH 4.5 to 7.0 REQUIRES heat “Gentle” – not a lot of bonds broken Acid balanced Wave: GMT pH 7.8 to 8.2 Stronger than true acid Ideal for a crisper curl on finer hair Acid GLYCERYL MONOTHIOGLYCOLATE in place of ATG Most are ENDOTHERMIC waves : activated by outside heat source; low pH; needs heat help open cuticle Long term exposure can lead to sensitivity or allergies for you or the guest

58. Ammonia-free waves : main ingredient does not evaporate as readily as ammonia; GMT or Sulfite compounds; weak, soft curl; body wave. Little to no odor; MEA, Thio free : Uses CYSTEAMINE ( Amino Acid ); NOT ATG but still a THIO compound. Lower on pH scale; Less bonds broken Low pH : Uses SULFITES, BISULFITES in place of THIOGLYCOLIC ACID; Very weak, does not provide a firm curl; body wave TYPES OF PERMS Aminomethylpropanol

59. Selecting Perm Type

60. REDKEN PERMS ACID ALKALINE ENDOTHERMIC

61. Permanent Wave Processing The amount of processing time should be determined by the strength of the solution, not necessarily how long the perm is processed. Most processing takes 5 to 10 minutes. Additional time allows polypeptide chains to shift to new configuration.

62. OVER PROCESSED VS. UNDER PROCESSED OVER PROCESSED Does not mean overly curly Too many disulfide bonds were broken Too strong of a perm for their canvas/history/hair type Processed too long New growth takes a curl, midshaft to ends will not hold a curl May feel limp, mushy or like wet cotton UNDER PROCESSED Not enough disulfide bonds were broken Too weak of a perm solution for hair type Did not leave processing long enough New growth is straighter, midshaft to ends is curly May feel hard, coated, hard to style

63. Preliminary Test Curls Correct processing time. Expected results from solution. Curl expected from rods and wrap. How much color will be removed from the process if the client has color-treated hair? Will the integrity of the hair be compromised? Did the hair break? Is it dry? Frizzy? Is the client satisfied with the shape and hold of the curl?

64. Perm Waving ( Thio ) Neutralization Thio neutralization stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form. It performs two functions: Deactivates waving solution Rebuilds broken disulfide bonds

65. CHEMISTRY- How perms work Reduction Reaction; Also known as REDOX Comes from the Neutralizer Is responsible for RE-BUILDING the DISULFIDE bond by adding OXYGEN( in Neutralizer ) Electron Capacity is responsible FOR ALL REDUCTIONS Oxygen Reduction Reaction means adding hydrogen or oxygen OXIDATION; Hydrogen Peroxide- 1.5 % ( 5 vol ) 3% ( 10 vol ) Oxidation can cause Haircolor to Oxidize ( get lighter )

66. NEUTRALIZER- Stops the perm; Reforms Disulfide Bonds CHEMISTRY- How perms work Reduction Reaction NEUTRALIZER adds Oxygen- this substance is also known as a REDUCING AGENT Adding Oxygen REDUCES the bond of HYDROGEN & SULFUR ( from waving lotion ) OXYGEN & HYDROGEN join together, become water & get rinsed from the hair Sulfur bonds with Sulfur again ( DISULFIDE BOND ) in their new “S” shape

67. STEPS TO THE PERM Consultation- DEPTH, scalp analysis Release of claims Double drape Clarify shampoo/ NO CONDITIONER Towel blot, detangle Section hair Begin wrapping Cotton Perm Solution/Activator Test curl every 5-10 min until processed ( 20 min) Rinse 5-10 min. (1 min for each inch of hair) Towel blot Paper towel blot Air neutralize Cotton Neutralize 5 min Drop rods Rinse Style as desired/ DO NOT SHAMPOO for 48 hrs

68. Perm Safety Precautions Protect client clothing. Determine allergic reaction. Hair and scalp analysis. Determine extent of damage. Determine prior hydroxide relaxers. Perform metallic salt test. Apply protective barrier cream. (continues)

69. Use as directed. Keep solution away from eyes and skin. Always follow manufacturer’s directions. Wear gloves when applying solutions. Replace wet cotton or towels. Discard unused products. Shampoo and condition with products for chemically treated hair. Perm Safety Precautions (continued)

70. Metallic Salts Not compatible with permanent waving. Leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage. Metallic salts are more commonly found in men’s haircolors that are sold for home use.

71. WHY UNDERSTANDING RELAXERS IS IMPORTANT May also be referred to as a Perm Relaxer is a chemical process that alters the hairs bonds/structure straighter “more relaxed” Having a thorough understanding of how Relaxing works will allow you to: Choose the right relaxer strength Know what chemicals are compatible VS incompatible Maintain the integrity of the hair

72. Hair & Scalp analysis and proper consultation can prevent hair loss, chemical burns, over lapping by choosing right product, application & processing time

73. Curly Hair Extremely curly hair grows in long, twisted spirals or coils. Cross-sections are highly elliptical; they vary in shape and thickness along their lengths. The thinnest and weakest sections are located at the twists.

74. WAVE PATTERN STRAIGHT WAVY CURLY EXTRA CURLY COILY KINKY Hair texture and Wave pattern are extremely important Every bend in the hair is a weak point Example: Fine extra curly is most fragile because of cuticle layers & bending point

75. HAIR TYPE & TEXTURE Wave pattern and Texture give us 12 different hair types to choose from TEXTURE WAVE PATTERN How the follicle tunnels into the scalp

76. Chemical Hair Relaxers Chemical hair relaxing is the process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straighter or smoother form. Photography by Tom Carson.

77. Types of Chemical Hair Relaxers Ammonium thio -No Lye Guanidine hydroxide -No Lye Sodium hydroxide -Lye

78. Main ingredient: ammonium thioglycolate ATG- Same ingredient as a Perm A Reduction Reaction/REDOX just like in a perm Usually have a pH above 10 Usually have a higher concentration of ATG- More than in a Perm Have a thicker viscosity Breaks MORE disulfide bonds then a Perm THIO RELAXERS

79. Examples: Sodium hydroxide- oldest; most common Potassium hydroxide Lithium hydroxide Guanidine hydroxide NOT COMPATIBLE WITH THIO Have a pH of 13.0 or more Lanthionization - NO REFORMING OF DISULFIDE BOND HYDROXIDE RELAXERS- Metal Based Relaxers; HYDROXIDE ION is active ingredient 2 Components to mix; over the counter relaxer

80. The neutralization used with thio relaxers is an oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide. The oxidation reaction caused by the neutralizer rebuilds the disulfide bonds that were broken by the thio relaxer. THIO NEUTRALIZER Same Neutralization process as a Perm; Rebuilds disulfide bond by REDOX

81. THIO RELAXERS- ONLY COMPATIBLE WITH THIO REDOX Adds Hydrogen; Breaks SOME Disulfide bonds to smooths, straightens hair REDOX Wrap hair on rollers; Solution adds more HYDROGEN to break DISULFIDE bonds; Neutralizer adds OXYGEN to reform Your text 1 . 2 . Follow the same preparation steps as virgin hydroxide relaxers with the possible exception of a light shampoo before a thio relaxer . DEPTH

82. Hair is shampooed and conditioned. Straightener is distributed evenly. Hair is processed to desired curl reduction. Hair is thoroughly rinsed (10 minutes). Hair is conditioned and blown dry. Sections are flat ironed. Hair is neutralized and blown dry.

83. Hydroxide Relaxers Examples: Sodium hydroxide Potassium hydroxide Lithium hydroxide Guanidine hydroxide Not compatible with thio relaxers Have a pH of 13.0 or more Lanthionization

84. Types of Hydroxide Relaxers Metal hydroxide relaxers – ionic compounds metal --sodium (Na), potassium (K), or lithium (Li) that is combined with oxygen (O) and hydrogen (H). Metal hydroxide relaxers include sodium hydroxide ( NaOH ), potassium hydroxide (KOH), and lithium hydroxide ( LiOH ). The active ingredient is the hydroxide ion. (continues) Aluminium Selenium Chromium Arsenic Nickel Lead Nickel Cadium Mercury

85. Lye-based relaxers – sodium hydroxide relaxers, also known as CAUSTIC SODA Oldest and most common type of relaxers Same chemical used in drain cleaners and chemical hair depilatories Types of Hydroxide Relaxers (continued) (continues)

86. No-lye relaxers – lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide often sold as no-mix, no lye relaxers Even though not lye, chemistry identical and little difference in their performances Types of Hydroxide Relaxers (continued) (continues)

87. GUANIDINE hydroxide relaxers – also sold as no-lye relaxers. Hydroxide ion is active ingredient. Require two components to be mixed. Types of Hydroxide Relaxers (continues) Straighten hair completely. Less scalp irritation; use for sensitive scalp. Do not reduce hair damage. More drying to hair.

88. Low pH relaxers – ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite most commonly used. Compatible with thio ; not compatible with hydroxide. Do not completely straighten extremely curly hair. Can be used on color-treated, damaged, or fine hair. Types of Hydroxide Relaxers

89. Base and No-Base Relaxers Base – require application of base cream to protect skin and scalp during relaxing. No-base – do not require protective base cream since they already contain a base cream that melts at body temperature; protective cream may be applied around ears and hairline.

90. Selecting the Correct Relaxer

91. Relaxer Strengths Mild – formulated for fine, color-treated, or damaged hair Regular – intended for normal hair texture with medium natural curl Super – used for maximum strengthening on extremely curly, coarse hair Damage can occur if THIO or HYDROXIDE are applied to hair that has been colored with products containing metallic salts.

92. Periodic Strand Testing Processing time varies Stretch the strand to determine if curls are removed or you may smooth and press the strand to the scalp If the strand remains smooth, it is sufficiently relaxed. If the curl returns, continue processing.

93. Hydroxide Neutralization Process does not involve oxidation or rebuilding disulfide bonds. Hair remains at a high pH. Acid-balanced shampoo or normalizing lotion is used.

94. Hydroxide Relaxer Virgin application Retouch application Texturizing service Using base cream, protective cream, and normalizing products Neutralizing shampoo

95. Relaxer Safety Precautions Do thorough hair analysis and consultation. Examine the scalp for abrasions. Keep accurate and detailed client records. Have client sign a release statement. Do not apply hydroxide over thio . Do not apply thio over hydroxide. Do not relax hair treated with metallic dye. Do not relax overly damaged hair. (continues)

96. Do not shampoo prior to hydroxide relaxer. Make sure hair and scalp are dry. Apply protective base cream. Wear gloves. Protect client’s eyes. Flush eyes if solution touches. Do not allow product to touch ears, scalp, or skin. Relaxer Safety Precautions (continues)

97. Perform periodic strand tests. Avoid scratching scalp. Do not overlap relaxer on hair strand. Adjust strength for fine/damaged hair. Do not remove more than 80 percent of curl. Thoroughly rinse relaxer from hair. Use normalizing lotion. Relaxer Safety Precautions (continued) (continues)

98. Use neutralizing shampoo with color indicator to confirm restored pH. Use conditioner and wide-tooth comb to eliminate excessive stretching when combing tangles. Do not use hot irons or excessive heat on chemically relaxed hair. Relaxer Safety Precautions (continued)

99. Keratin Straightening Treatments Contain silicone polymers and formalin, which release formaldehyde gas when heated to high temperatures. Need proper VENTILATION system Do not break bonds; treatment applied, hair blown dry, and flat iron set at 450°F is used on narrow sections to polymerize a coating on the hair. Eliminate up to 95 percent of frizz and curl. Last three to five months.

100. Steps to Keratin Straightening Perform consultation Pre-conditioning – equalize porosity (continues) Permanent color/highlights – use mild to regular shampoo. Toners or demigloss – perform three to five days after keratin treatment.

101. Steps to Keratin Straightening (continues) Home-care maintenance – CRITICAL for first 3 days Hair may not be shampooed for three days (72 hours) after the service. Avoid getting any moisture into hair for 72 hours. The client should wear his or her hair down, and should not use pins, clips, ponytail holders, or sunglasses to hold the hair back. The hair must remain in a straight position for 72 hours to maintain its new straightness.

102. Curl Re-Forming A thio -based chemical service that reformats curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves. Reformation occurs by wrapping the hair on rods. Soft curl permanents use ATG (ammonium thioglycolate ) and oxidation neutralizers just as thio permanent waves do.

103. Safety Precautions for Hair Relaxing and Curl Re-Forming (continues)

104. Safety Precautions (continued) (continues)

105. Safety Precautions (continued) (continues) Safety Precautions (continued)

106. Safety Precautions (continued)

107. REVIEW!!!!!