nauvari sari Maharashtra Traditional textiles

nauvari sari

1. Traditional textile craft documentation on – nauvari ( kashta ) sari of Maharashtra By Ruchita Sohani B.Des 5 th sem BDES1506

2. Contents Introduction Origin & History Background How they work Different Drapes of Nauvari Sarees Traditional kashta ( Nauvari ) Koli Drape Accessorizing on kashta saree Interesting facts Reference Conclusion My personal experience Videos

3. Kashta silk saree ( Nauvari )

4. Introduction Nauvari (also known as nauvari , kasta sari, kacha , sakachcha , lugade ) is a nine yards saree worn by the marathi women of maharashtra . The name ‘ nauvari ’ originated from the saree’s length of nine yards. The style of drape for nauvari has evolved drastically from the traditional style to the modern-age cult and is draped in such a way that it gives a trouser-dress appearance, while the sari is tucked at the back. Nauvari sarees usually come in cotton and is worn without a petticoat, majorly by the maharashtrian brahmin women community.

5. Origin & History The women of the Maratha Empire showcased their abilities and calibre by assisting their fellow male warriors during the times of war. Hence, in order to accomplish their mission and yet maintain their comfort of physical movement during the wars, these Marathi women invented this Maharashtrian style of drape.

6. Background The Kashta drape takes inspiration from the male Dhoti. The drape of the saree affords the wearer comfort and freedom of movement. Sources of Inspiration The Nauvari saree drives home, an essential truth that a woman, a motherly figure who is usually known as the home keeper can also be the protector of humankind when needed.

7. How they Work? There Manufacturing & Processing unit in Nagpur The weaver weaving a nauvari kashta saree with cotton threads

8. They are having their own manufacturing unit in Nagpur from last 90 years with the firm belief that "Success is possible only with 100% customer satisfaction".

9. There weavers weave creative designs with the blend of colours. well informed and well experienced weavers they are. The woman all over the world says nauvaree Creates in reality what others create in dreams”. Women's dream nauvari Sarees is manufactured in our modern and updated handloom units with pure Jari . jari is use for design. They need 8 hours for 1 saree, they weave full saree with hands and handloom machines

10. A man weave a palla of nauvari kashta saree with cotton and jari threads

11. This is the thread machine which is use to weave thread on plastic stick for weft yarn

12. This is handloom machine of nauvari kashta

13. They use to weave bulks of nauvari kashta saree at handloom sector The workers are not stay at the work station they use to travel from far for alive this tradition They come every day at 9’oclock in the morning and work their till 6’oclock in evening.

14. This is different colour weft yarn bundle hanger

15. This is handloom machine with fix design using wood

16. The threading machine for wrap yarns

17. The thread setting of wrap yarns on handloom machine

18. The handloom machine with fix design using wood they use wood blocks for design this design is fix. Because its traditional design using geometrical and line were use in that, This fix wood design is change in years or month they have to change it. They use threading machine for wrap yarns and they have to fix the thread according to design the boarder of design is different and it change with wrap and weft both the yarns

19. Motifs There are not such motifs designs for nauvari sari Traditional nauvari sari has a traditional geometrical motifs like triangle, square, circles There are some flower, parrot, tree such traditional motifs design In nauvari sari there is a floral motifs and full jari work in floral on palla On boarder there are some lines, shapes, dots, etc The dots are also on all over the sare with jari Dots are also the main motif of nauvari kashta sari

20. Parrot and tree and a lines on palla Boarder of sari

21. Jari palla All over the sari the lines as a design

22. Different Drapes of Nauvari Sarees Traditional Nauvari drap The traditional style of drape inspired from the warrior Marathi women is worn without a petticoat. The drape comprises following steps: Center of the sari is neatly placed at the back of the waist. Ends of the saree are tied in the front, and then the two ends are wrapped around the legs, giving a trouser-like look.  The decorative ends of the saree are then draped over the shoulder and the upper body. The draping of this sari does not end here and moves down south to Goa- the land of fishermen and beaches. The traditional clothing of the fisher-women of Goa is an innovation to the Nauvari Sari – Pano Bhaju ’. The women wear this in bright and vibrant colors and team it up with  Vakal   which is a string of beads with leaf loincloths worn around the neck.

23. Step 1. - Keep the saree behind the person. Take one end over the right waist let some fabric loose then make a double knot in between the saree across the waist right over the navel . Draping of Traditional Marathi nauvari Saree step by step

24. Step 2. - Take the loose fabric over the person between the legs and make small pleats and tuck it in behind

25. Step 3. - Now take the front length of the saree and make pleats and tuck it in the center

26. Step 4. - Bring the saree around the waist towards the front and make pleats for the pallu . Secure it with a pin over left shoulder. This method has a really short pallu length.

27. Koli Drape The Koli community comprises people who migrated from Rajasthan, Himachal Pradesh, Gujarat, Maharashtra, Uttar Pradesh and Haryana, to the state of Maharashtra. The women of this community wear Nauvari in two pieces. The Koli drape involves the following steps: Nauvari is cut into two pieces. One piece is tied around the waist. The second piece is tucked at the upper part of the body, and pulled over the head via the left shoulder, to give a Marathi l ook.

28. Traditional brahmans nauvari kashta saree

29. This is the normal drape of nauvari kashta saree with gold haar (necklaces), kamarbandh and jhumka

30. Accessorizing on kashta saree   When accessorizing the 9 yards saree one can take inspiration from the classic styles. In Maharashtra, the preferred accessories would be comfortable Kolhapuri chappals, simple gold pendants and a pearl Nath or circular nose-ring. Hair is typically tied back in a bun, with a circle of fresh flowers to adorn it. Earrings and glass bangles may also be added, to achieve the complete traditional look.

31. Interesting facts The word Nauvari translates to ‘nine yards’. The freedom fighter, Rani Lakshmi Bai, wore a Kashta drape when heading into battle due to the ease of movement it offered. The saree worn for the Kashta drape is one of the longest sarees in India and measures 8 to 9 yards on average. Nauvari sarees are extremely popular in Bollywood and recently actress Vidya Balan donned this saree in one of her song sequences in the movie ‘Ferrari ki Sawari ’. It is worn in most of the Maharashtrian or Marathi dance forms.

32. Bollywood actress Vidya Balan in a traditional Nauvari Saree

33. Reference   https://blog.utsavfashion.com/ensembles/maharashtrian-sarees https://shatikasarees.wordpress.com/2017/08/11/nuvari-sarees-of-maharashtra-the-9-yard-paithani-sarees/ http://www.indiavideo.org/lifestyle/dress/nauvari-marwadi-saree-4705.php https://kolhapurimandai.com/blog/history-of-nauvari-saree-b31.html

34. CONCLUSION This handloom sector experience on the whole has increased my knowledge to a great level. It will help me in my internship as well as later while working or starting up my own brand. I really am thankful to Prof ( Dr. ) Bhawana Chanana for adding such a subject to our curriculum to increase our industry experience .

35. My personal experience   I went to handloom sector of nauvari kashta saree, this sector is weave handloom Maharashtrian kashta nauvari saree. I saw several things in sector like weaving machine, thread machine, thread weave on wood stick machine, etc. They use only cotton threads and jari threads. 10 to 20 workers work there and they all are very interactive. I communicate with very easily. They told me everything how they work and how they get their projects and how they complete it. To visit there is very helpful for me because I understood how traditional sector work, how they select raw materials for garments. These things help me in future.

36. THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR TIME AND ATTENTION FOR THIS PRESENTATION