Parts and Assembly of a Shirt

Straight Long Seams
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up the 20”x5” plaid plies, align them and place them under needle. Take reference to any straight line on the plaid fabric.
Start sewing by following the reference point and sew off at the end.
Turn the fabric by 180 degrees and position it under the needle taking a new reference point.
First try to sew straight with any number of bursts applicable to you and once you achieve this objective try to reduce the number of bursts.
Continue the process 4 as many time as possible using the same fabric.
At the end of this exercise you should be able to sew a long straight seam in a 1 or 2 bursts

1. Parts And Assembly Of A Shirt By Introcanvas https://introcanvas.wordpress.com/ https://twitter.com/introcanvas https://fb.com/introcanvas

2. Objective By the end of this session we would be able to understand Straight Long Seams Attaching one piece to other using folder Placket facing attach using folder Hemming operations using folder Square/ round/triangle/diamond bottom pocket attachment Long & Short seams with needle down stoppages at corners

3. Objective By the end of this session we would be able to understand Collar run stitch operation Top stitch Mock neck band hem Mock topstitch collar Sleeve Setting Attach Center Placket Pleat Gauge

4. Straight Long Seams © All Rights Reserved 4 The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pick Up the 20”x5” plaid plies, align them and place them under needle. Take reference to any straight line on the plaid fabric. Start sewing by following the reference point and sew off at the end. Turn the fabric by 180 degrees and position it under the needle taking a new reference point. Continue the process 4 as many time as possible using the same fabric. First try to sew straight with any number of bursts applicable to you and once you achieve this objective try to reduce the number of bursts. At the end of this exercise you should be able to sew a long straight seam in a 1 or 2 bursts

5. Attaching One Piece To Other Using Folder © All Rights Reserved 5 The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pick Up the body from the left side on the table and place under the needle. Pick the facing from lap align and place it on the body under the needle as shown in fig. Start sewing straight by holding and feeding the placket facing with right hand and body with left hand. While feeding ensures that the placket facing is fed normally while body is fed a bit tighter in proportion to placket facing. Sew off at the other end and dispose it in chain until the bundle or lot is completed.

6. Placket facing attach using folder © All Rights Reserved 6 The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pick Up the body from the left side on the table and place under the needle. Pick the facing from lap and pass it through the folder. When placket facing reaches the other end of folder aligns it to the body, match the checks and position it under the needle. Start sewing straight by holding and feeding the placket facing with right hand and body with left hand. Sew off at the other end and dispose it in chain until the bundle or lot is completed.

7. Hemming Operations Using Folder © All Rights Reserved 7 The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pick Up the ply from left extension, fold it to 1”at one edge as shown in fig. and place it under the needle. Start sewing straight by folding the width with right hand and feeding the fabric forward with left hand. Sew off at the other end and dispose it in chain until the bundle or lot is completed.

8. Hemming Operations Using Folder © All Rights Reserved 8 Move the above chain-disposed bundle to left side of you. Take the first piece in the bundle and feed it to the folder attached. Start Stitching straight by holding the fabric with right hand and feeding it into the folder. Sew off at the edge and dispose in chain.

9. Square Pocket Attach © All Rights Reserved 9 The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pickup the Front from Pickup bar and place it on Machine Bed. Now Pick the Creased Pocket from Right extension and align it to the marking on Front. After Setting the pocket to Front, position them under the needle at Point ‘A’ as Shown in Fig.

10. Square Pocket Attach © All Rights Reserved 10 Give a Back tack at A and start sewing towards B. At B stop with needle down position turn the Pc by 90 degrees and follow the seam as shown in Figure. Sew with precision stops at all corners with needle down position until Use reach the Position ‘C’. At ‘c’ give a Back tack, Trim the threads and dispose the front to center runner or Disposal Bar.

11. Rounded Bottom Pocket Attach © All Rights Reserved 11 The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pickup the Front from Pickup bar and place it on Machine Bed. Now Pick the Creased Pocket from Right extension and align it to the marking on Front. After Setting the pocket to Front, position them under the needle at Point ‘A’ as Shown in Fig. Give a Back tack at A and start sewing towards B. At B stop with needle down position turn the Pc by 90 degrees and follow the seam as shown in Figure Sew with precision stops at all corners with needle down position until U reach the Position ‘C’. At ‘c’ give a Back tack, Trim the threads and dispose the front to center runner or Disposal Bar.

12. Bottom Triangle Pocket Attach © All Rights Reserved 12 The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pickup the Front from Pickup bar and place it on Machine Bed. Now Pick the Creased Pocket from Right extension and align it to the marking on Front. After Setting the pocket to Front, position them under the needle at Point ‘A’ as Shown in Fig. Give a Back tack at A and start sewing towards B. At B stop with needle down position turn the Pc by 90 degrees and follow the seam as shown in Figure. Sew with precision stops at all corners with needle down position until U reach the Position ‘C’. At ‘c’ give a Back tack, Trim the threads and dispose the front to center runner or Disposal Bar.

13. Diamond Pocket Attach © All Rights Reserved 13 The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pickup the Front from Pickup bar and place it on Machine Bed. Now Pick the Creased Pocket from Right extension and align it to the marking on Front. After Setting the pocket to Front, position them under the needle at Point ‘A’ as Shown in Fig. Give a Back tack at A and start sewing towards B. At B stop with needle down position turn the Pc by 90 degrees and follow the seam as shown in Figure. Sew with precision stops at all corners with needle down position until U reach the Position ‘C’. At ‘c’ give a Back tack, Trim the threads and dispose the front to center runner or Disposal Bar

14. Long & Short Seams With Needle Down Stoppages At Corners © All Rights Reserved 14 The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pick Up two 20” X 5” plies (One from right extension and other from lap ) simultaneously with both hands, align them on one side and position them under needle at ¼” from corner. Start Sewing Straight, holding and aligning plies using right hand and guiding the fabric forward with left hand. Continue stitching until you reach ¼ “ from opposite edge where you stop with the needle down position.

15. Long & Short Seams With Needle Down Stoppages At Corners © All Rights Reserved 15 With the needle down position turn the plies at 90 degrees and continue stitching, holding the fabric with right hand and guiding it with left hand. Repeat the steps 4 & 5 until you reach the last edge where you sew off as shown in the diagram. With trimmer on right hand cut the sew off thread and dispose.

16. Collar Run Stitch Operation © All Rights Reserved 16 The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pick Up two Collar Plies (One from right extension and other from lap ) simultaneously with both hands, align them on one side and position them under needle at ¼” from corner. Start Sewing Straight, holding and aligning plies using right hand and guiding the fabric forward with left hand. Continue stitching until you reach ¼ “ from opposite edge where you stop with the needle down position.

17. Collar Run Stitch Operation © All Rights Reserved 17 With the needle down position turn the plies at 90 degrees and continue stitching, holding the fabric with right hand and guiding it with left hand. Repeat the steps 4 & 5 until you reach the last edge where you sew off as shown in the diagram. With trimmer on right hand, cut the sew off thread and dispose.

18. Top Stitch © All Rights Reserved 18 The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pick Up the piece from Machine bed and place it under the needle at a distance of ¼ “ from the edge. Start Sewing Straight maintaining a margin of ¼” until you reach ¼ “ from opposite edge where you stop with the needle down position. With the needle down position turn the plies at 90 degrees and continue stitching. Repeat the steps 3 & 4 until you reach the last edge where you sew off as shown in the diagram. With trimmer on right hand, cut the sew off thread and dispose.

19. Mock Neck Band Hem © All Rights Reserved 19 The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pick Up the fabric From Machine bed fold it at 3/8” width at bottom end and place this end under the needle. Now start Sewing at a margin of ¼” from the folded edge along the required contour. When sewing make sure that the folding is done precisely with right hand and the fabric is guided by right hand. Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain.

20. Mock Topstitch Collar © All Rights Reserved 20 The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pick Up the ready collar from Machine bed and place it under the needle at a distance of ¼ “ from the edge. Start Sewing Straight maintaining a margin of ¼” until you reach ¼ “ from opposite edge where you stop with the needle down position. With the needle down position turn the collar at ¼” w.r.t the other edge and continue stitching. Repeat the steps 3 & 4 until you reach the last edge where you sew off as shown in the diagram. With trimmer on right hand, cut the sew off thread and dispose.

21. Sleeve Setting © All Rights Reserved 21 Set of guides for joining the armhole to the sleeve on high quality shirts. Adjustable margin settings. Special presser foot is recommended. Turns the sleeve up as the body is pulled over and stitched down. Produces a quality finish and appearance. Special presser foot is recommended. Folder hems the sleeve and joins it to the body, using a double needle machine. Compensating Foot is used on second top stitching operation. Folder hems the sleeve and joins it to the body, using a double needle machine.

22. Attach Center Placket © All Rights Reserved 22 Attaches the center plait to the shirt body. Folder features a separate concave lining track which allows easier starts for all types of fabrics and a tight finish around the lining. Used to make a one piece shirt front by hemming the shirt body itself. Folder features a separate concave lining track which helps produce a tight finish. A variation of the imitation Center Front Folder for use on Men's and ladies' sport shirts. The top of the front conceals the button hole which is sewn on the bottom tuck.

23. Attach Center Placket © All Rights Reserved 23 Sometimes referred to as "Horn Type Top Center" or "Wrap Folder". Used to sew a front, primarily on ladies' dress shirts and "pullover" type sport shirts.

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