PERFUMES.pptx

Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aromatic compounds, fixatives and solvents used to give the human body, animal, food objects and living spaces a pleasant scent.
It has been used for centuries by mankind.
Perfumes are supposed to release a continuous pleasant.
Fragrance that will provide a long lasting feeling of freshness.
Initially it was only used for religious purpose but now it has become an ornament of sophistication for both men and women.

1. PERFUME SUBMITTED BY-Himadri priya Gogoi M pharm first year ACP22PHCE004 Cosmetics and cosmeceuticals 05-10-2023 1

2. content Perfumes: Classification of perfumes Perfume ingredients listed as allergens in EU regulation. 05-10-2023 2

3. WHAT IS PERFUME Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aromatic compounds, fixatives and solvents used to give the human body, animal, food objects and living spaces a pleasant scent. It has been used for centuries by mankind. Perfumes are supposed to release a continuous pleasant. F ragrance that will provide a long lasting feeling of freshness. Initially it was only used for religious purpose but now it has become an ornament of sophistication for both men and women. 05-10-2023 3

4. HISTORY OF PERFUMES The Egyptians were the first who used perfume for personal enjoyment, but the production of perfume was reserved for the priests and they used it in religious purpose. The Greek used an extraordinary amount of perfume and for each part of the body they used a different fragrance for hygiene and cult of the body. The history of the Arabs is the fusion of art and science. Two talented Arabian chemists- Jadir ibn Hayyan and Al- Kindi established the perfume industry. The Romans used perfume as a part of luxury. 05-10-2023 4

5. The oldest perfumery was discovered on the island of Cyprus 4,000 years ago indicating that perfume manufacturing was on an industrial scale. The Hungarians introduced the first modern perfume, made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution at the command of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary. France is the birthplace of modern perfumery. France provided to grow aromatic plants for perfume industry with raw materials. Even today, France remains the center of the European perfume design and trade. England and Germany also contributed a lot in modernization of perfumery. 05-10-2023 5

6. Notes in perfumes Perfume is described in a musical metaphor as having three sets of notes, making the harmonious scent accord. These notes are created carefully with knowledge of the evaporation process of the perfume. The three notes are: a. Top notes b. Middle notes c. Base notes Each of these levels, however has its own primary purpose 05-10-2023 6

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8. Top notes:- They are generally the lightest of all notes and recognized immediately after application. Top notes consist of small, light molecules with high volatility that evaporate quickly. Common fragrances of top notes include citrus (lemon, orange zest), light fruits (grape, berries) and herbs (clary sage, lavender). 05-10-2023 8

9. Middle Notes:- The middle notes, or the heart notes, make an appearance once the top notes evaporate. The middle note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a perfume and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time. Common fragrances of middle notes includes rose, lemon, ylang ylang , lavender, nutmeg and jasmine. 05-10-2023 9

10. Base notes: Base notes or bottom or dry notes appear while middle notes are fading. The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes bring depth and solidity to a perfume. Common fragrances of base notes include sandalwood, vanilla, amber and musk etc. 05-10-2023 10

11. Classification of perfumes Classification on basis of their origin 1.Essential Oils – Citronella oil, Lemon grass oil, Sandalwood Oil, Orange Oil, Eucalyptus Oil, Lavender Oil, Clove Oil, Patchouli Oil etc. 2.Semi-synthetic Materials – Origin will be natural –Subject to reactions alone , Hydroxy citronella, Vanillin 3. Animal Origin – Deer Musk, Civet musk(glandular secretion of viverridae species) 4. Purely Synthetic Materials – Lilial , AldehydeC-12 MNA, Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde, Galaxolide etc. 05-10-2023 11

12. Classification by Functional Groups Hydrocarbons – Open, Cyclic, Aromatic (Saturated or unsaturated) compounds Alcohol – Primary, secondary, tertiary alcohol Aldehydes / Ketones Esters Ethers Lactones Phenols Halogen containing compounds – Rose crystals Nitrile – Geranyl nitrile Sulphur containing – Dimethyl Sulphides 05-10-2023 12

13. Classification on Fragrance Family 1. Floral - Rose, Jasmine, Lavender white flower 2. Citrus - Lemon, Orange, Bergamot, citrus  3. Fruity- Apple, Raseberry , Strawberry, Peach, Grape fruit 4. Woody - Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Patchouli  5.Herbal - Lemongrass, Citronella, Peppermint, Spearmint  6. Spicy – Cinnamon, Clove, Nutmeg  7. Musky / animalic – Civet, Musk, Synthetic musk  8. Aldehydic - Aldehyde C-10, Aldehyde C-11, Aldehyde C-12, Aldehyde C-14 05-10-2023 13

14. Perfumes are classified into five major groups on the basis of concentration of fragrance and duration of lasting: Parfume( perfume ) Eau de parfume Eau de toilette Eau de cologne Eau fraiche 05-10-2023 14

15. Manufacturing process Perfumes can be manufactured by following steps: I. Collection II. Extraction III. Blending IV. Aging I. Collection : Before beginning the manufacturing process the sources of suitable fragrances are collected in the manufacturing center. 05-10-2023 15

16. II. EXTRATION: Oils are extracted from plants and other substances by several methods like: a. Steam distillation : Steam is passed through plant materials held in a still, whereby the essential oil turns to gas. This gas is then passed through tubes, cooled, liquefied and collected b. Solvent extraction : The flower parts are dissolved in benzene or petrolatum that retains the fragrance of the flower. Alcohol is used to dissolve the fragrance and heated to obtain it after evaporation of alcohol. c. Enfleurage : Flowers are kept in glass sheet with grease that absorb the fragrance of flowers. d. Expression : The citrus fruits or plants are manually or mechanically pressed until all the oil is squeezed out. 05-10-2023 16

17. III. Blending : Once the perfume oils are collected, they are ready to be blended together according to a formula determined by a master in the field, known as a "nose.” After the scent has been created, it is mixed with alcohol. Most of the perfumes are made of about 10-20% perfume oils dissolved in alcohol and a trace of water. IV. Aging : Fine perfume is often aged for several months or even years after blending to ensure that the pleasant scent has been achieved. 05-10-2023 17

18. COMPOSITION Perfumes are mainly composed of – 1. Essential oil Derived from natural aromatic plant extracts and/or synthetic aromatic chemicals. E.g. limonene, linalool, geraniol, citral etc. 2.Fixatives Natural or synthetic substances used to reduce the evaporation rate. E.g. benzyl benzoate, benzyl alcohol etc. 3.Solvents The liquid in which the perfume oil is dissolved in is usually 98% ethanol and 2% water. Alcohol allows fragrance to spread along with it and does not permit microbial growth in the perfume. 05-10-2023 18

19. 05-10-2023 19 Formula for perfume

20. INGREDIENTS CAUSING ALLERGIC 05-10-2023 20

21. REASONS FOR USING PERFUME To mask body odor Helps to get rid of anxiety and depression Positive mood enhancer Confident booster For religious purpose To be fresh and chilled all day long 05-10-2023 21

22. EUROPEAN UNION GUIDELINES ON PERFUMES 05-10-2023 22

23. EU Regulations(Perfume allergens) In 1999, a set of 26 fragrance allergens with a well-recognized potential to cause allergy had been identified, for which information should be provided to consumers about their presence in cosmetic products. On this basis, the Cosmetics directive required that the presence of any of these 26 substances be indicated in the list of ingredients when its concentration exceeds 0.001 % in leave-on products and 0.01 % in rinse-off products. 05-10-2023 23

24. From the few population-based studies, it can be estimated that the frequency of contact allergy to fragrance ingredients in the general population in Europe is 1-3%. The present opinion by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) updates a opinion with the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products (SCCNFP) using a systematic and critical review of the scientific literature to identify fragrance allergens, including natural extracts, relevant to consumers. The evidence was evaluated according to clearly defined criteria and the substances were then categorized as established contact allergens (in humans or animals) likely contact allergens possible contact allergens 05-10-2023 24

25. 26 allergens are as follows Amyl cinnamal Benzyl alcohol Cinnamyl alcohol Citral Eugenol Hydroxy citronellal Isoeugenol Amylcinnamyl alcohol Benzyl salicylate Cinnamal Coumarin Hydroxy isohexyl 3-cyclohexane Carboxaldehyde Anise alcohol Benzyl cinnamate Farnesol Butylphenyly methylpropional Lialool Benzyl benzoate Citronellol Hexyl cinnamal Limonene Methyl 2-octynoate Alpha- isomethyl ionone Evemia prunastri Evemia furfuracea 05-10-2023 25

26. Psychology of using Perfumes When we inhale the odorant molecules of a perfume, it not only creates the sensation of odor but also creates emotions and experiences associated with it. For instance, we focus on the pleasant childhood memories associated with the smell of vanilla. Another reason behind perfume use is to increase ones attractiveness in the eyes of other people. We wear a perfume which best expresses our individuality, our tastes and our character. using Perfume may become a habit and without it a person may feel incomplete. 05-10-2023 26

27. Controversial ingredients Parabens Parabens are widely used preservatives and it is used in various pharmaceuticals products. They are a series of P- hydroxybenzoates or esters of P-hydroxybenzoic acid. It is used in many cosmetic formulations such as shampoos, shaving gels , commercial moisturizers, topical/ parentral preparations, tanning solution, toothpaste and also in a food additives. Its antibacterial mode of action is not well understood but it is more effective against broad spectrum of microorganisms by inhibiting the synthesis of DNA and RNA. 05-10-2023 27

28. Common parabens include are: methyl paraben, propyl paraben, ethyl paraben and butyl paraben. Parabens are controversial due to following factors given by American cancer society and FDA . According to research, it is found that it is relatively safe, posing only a negligible risk to the endocrine systems. Allergic reactions Breast cancer Estrogenic activity 05-10-2023 28

29. Parabens can mimic hormones in the body and disrupt functions of the endocrine system. Paraben can enter in your body through your skin when you applied it on the skin. According to survey, the body can absorb as much as 5 pounds of cosmetic chemicals every year. Health concerns : Breast cancer :- Cornell university reports that a high lifelong exposure to paraben can increase risk of it. Paraben accumulate in fat cells including breast tissues and leads to cause breast cancer. Eg. : methyl paraben 05-10-2023 29

30. Early puberty Paraben are having ability to adversely affect the endocrine system. It also results in early puberty in adolescent girls and boys. Paraben causes defectiveness in male reproductive system , results in decrease in sperm level concentration. Regulations: The European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) reiterated in 2013 that methyl paraben and ethyl paraben are safe at the maximum authorized concentration [ upto 0.4% for one ester or 0.8% used in combination] They concluded that the use of butyl paraben and propyl paraben as preservatives in finished cosmetics products is safe to the consumer. 05-10-2023 30

31. Alternatives for parabens Phenoxyethanol- used in the EU at upto 1.0% in all product categories. Sodium benzoate in combination with potassium sorbate, upto 2.5%in rinse off products, 1.7% in oral care products,0.5% in leave-on products. Benzyl alcohol upto 1.0% and dehydroacetic acid upto 0.6%. 05-10-2023 31

32. FORMALDEHYDE Formaldehyde is a colorless, strong-smelling gas used in a wide range of industries and products including building materials, walls, cabinets furniture and personal care products FOUND IN: Nail polish, nail glue, eyelash glue, hair gel, hair- smoothing products, baby shampoo, body soap, body wash, color cosmetics 35 Formaldehyde is classified as a probable human carcinogen by the Environmental Protection Agency, and also skin irritation. Vulnerable populations: • Infants • Hair salon workers • Nail salon workers 05-10-2023 32

33. Cancer Formaldehyde is considered as a known human carcinogenic by many experts and government bodies. A 2014 study found that formaldehyde initiates and promotes tumour formation. It enters into a body through an inhalation of formaldehyde containing formulations leads to cause cancer. Irritation Formaldehyde, in the 2015 by American contact dermatitis society considered as contact allergen of the year. It also results in occurrence of sensitivity. 05-10-2023 33

34. Regulations Banned from use in cosmetics and toiletries in Japan and Sweden. EU allows the use of quaternium 15 upto 0.2% as preservatives in cosmetics products. 05-10-2023 34

35. How to avoid : Skin hair smoothing products especially those sold in salons, as salon based products are exempted from labelling laws. Don’t use expired cosmetics products or store cosmetic products in the sun because this can cause more formaldehyde to be released. Choose nail products that are labeled formaldehyde free or toxic free ( formaldehyde, toluene and DBP). On label: Quaternium-15 a) It is a quaternary ammonium salt used as a surfactant and preservatives in many cosmetics and pharmaceutical products. b) It is found in mascara, lotion and shampoo. 05-10-2023 35

36. Glyoxal Glyoxal is the smallest dialdehyde and organic compound which is yellow colored liquid that evaporates to give a green colored gas. It is found in conditioner , lotion, nail polish , etc The expert panel has declared that glyoxal is an skin allergen. Bromopol It is found in nail polish, makeup remover, moisturizer and bodywash. It is safe in concentration less than 0.1% but cannot be found in formulations with the amine. Mixing bromopol and amines produce nitrosamines which have been found to penetrate to skin and cause cancer. 05-10-2023 36

37. 1,4 DIOXANES This petroleum-derived carcinogen ends up in personal care products as a byproduct of the chemical process that creates sulfates. The International Agency for Research on Cancer ranks it as a possible carcinogen, and the National Toxicology Program also calls it a reasonably anticipated carcinogen. It remains on California’s Proposition 65 list of substances known to cause cancer or birth defects, and is known (at the very least) to cause skin irritation. 05-10-2023 37

38. The ethoxylation process, where carcinogenic ethylene oxide added to make harsh ingredients milder, also produces 1,4-dioxane as a byproduct, another hidden ingredient in cosmetics and personal care products. If a manufacturer does test for 1,4-dioxane contamination and subsequently does not use vacuum-stripping method to remove it, the dangerous chemical remains in the final product. Most commonly 1,4-dioxane is found in products like shampoo, liquid soap and bubble bath. 05-10-2023 38

39. Environmental Working Group’s analysis suggests that 97% of hair relaxers, 57% of baby soaps and 22% of all products in skip deep may be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane. According to survey of campaign for safe cosmetics in 2017, showed that popular brands of childrens bubble bath and body wash contained 1,4- dioxane. 05-10-2023 39

40. Vulnerable population : • Infants • Teenagers • Pregnant womens Regulations: As per regulations, it is found that limit for dioxane safe for human is 10 ppm. There are several ways to avoid the formation of 1,4- dioxane in the ingredients: The FDA does not require 1,4-dioxane to be listed as an ingredients on product labels because the chemical is a contaminant produced during manufacturing. Without labeling , there is no other options to know for certain whether a product contains 1,4-dioxane, making it difficult for consumers to avoid it. 05-10-2023 40

41. Alternative processes to ethoxylation do exists but many companies don’t take advantage of them. Vacume stripping can remove 1,4- dioxane from an ethoxylated product. Organic standard do not allow ethoxylation and some conventional companies have agreed to alter the process the results in this contamination. A study by the Organic Consumer Association shows that 1,4- dioxane is non- existent in a variety of cosmetics certified under the USFDA National Organic program. Hence, a good way to avoid exposure to this chemical is to buy products that have been certified under this program. 05-10-2023 41

42. Reference:- World Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences :A Review on Perfumes www.slideshare.com Perfumes, Cosmetics and soaps 10 th edition by Pouchers page no-717-748 05-10-2023 42

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