PGFD 25-1.pptx...............................................

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1. PGFD-25 ADVANCED PATTERN AND CONSTRUCTION SEAMS I 1 01

2. Fundamentals of a Garment: Seams – Preparing to sew, Pinning, Tacking, Stay stitching, Taping seams , Directional seams , trimming , Finishing, Type of seams . Certainly, the fundamentals of garment construction involve various steps related to sewing seams. Here's a breakdown of these steps and the types of seams commonly used in sewing: Preparing to Sew: Begin by selecting the appropriate fabric and pattern for your garment. Make sure you have the necessary sewing supplies, including a sewing machine, thread, pins, scissors, and an iron. FUNDAMENTALS OF CLOTHING CONSTRUCTIONS

3. FUNDAMENTALS OF CLOTHING CONSTRUCTIONS Pinning: Before sewing, pin the fabric pieces together along the seam lines to hold them in place. This ensures that the fabric layers don't shift during sewing. Tacking: Tacking involves making temporary stitches (usually hand stitches) to hold the fabric layers together. This is particularly helpful when working with delicate or slippery fabrics. Stay Stitching: Stay stitching is a row of stitches made within the seam allowance to stabilize the fabric and prevent it from stretching or distorting. It is typically used on curved or bias-cut edges .

4. Stay Stitching: Stay stitching is a row of stitches made within the seam allowance to stabilize the fabric and prevent it from stretching or distorting. It is typically used on curved or bias-cut edges. Taping Seams: Seam tape or seam binding can be used to reinforce seams, particularly in areas that will undergo stress or tension, such as the crotch seam in pants. It adds durability and stability to the seam .

5. Directional Seams: Some garments have specific directional seams, such as darts or princess seams. These are sewn to shape the garment to the body and create a flattering fit. Pay attention to pattern markings to ensure correct alignment. Trimming: After sewing a seam, trim any excess fabric from the seam allowance to reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut through the stitching .

6. Finishing: Finishing the seam edges is essential to prevent fraying and to give your garment a professional look. Common seam finishing methods include serging, overcasting, zigzag stitching, or using pinking shears .

7. SEAM A seam is a method of binding two or more pieces of fabric together, usually using thread to form stitches. However, glue and other forms of adhesive can also be used. Seams can be stitched by hand or sewn by machine. Seams can either be open or closed. An open seam is one where the seam allowance, the piece of fabric between the edge of the material and the stitches, is visible. A closed seam incorporates the seam allowance within the seam finish, making it invisible

8. PLAIN SEAM A plain seam is the simplest type of seam and can be used on almost any item. A plain seam is defined as any seam that attaches two pieces of fabric together with the wrong sides facing. The wrong side is the side of the fabric that doesn’t face outward when the garment or item is completed. The stitch length or type of stitch doesn’t matter, as long as it is one stitch line and it attaches two pieces of fabric.

9. TOP SEAM Top stitching is a sewing technique where the line of stitching is designed to be seen from the outside of the garment, either decorative or functional. Topstitching is used most often on garment edges such as necklines and hems, where it helps facings to stay in place and gives a crisp edge .

10. Double Top Sleeve A Double Top Stitched Seam is like a Plain Seam, but a second Plain Seam is sewn between the first and the raw edges of the seam allowance in order to provide a stronger seam for the fabrics being sewn together as well as better keep the fabric from fraying. This type of seam is great for giving a little extra hold to those lighter shirts and other flexible pieces, but it can also be used on garments like pants and jackets being made with lighter-weight fabrics.

11. FRENCH SEAM A French seam should only be used on delicate, lightweight fabric, like chiffon or organza, as the seam uses a lot of material and can get bulky with heavier fabrics. Since the edges of the fabric do not show with this technique, a French seam is also great for garments where you want to hide the seams, like an unlined jacket .

12. RUN AND FELL SEAM Flat Felled Seams are seams where a Plain Seam is first used to sew a right and wrong side together, and then the edges are tucked into each other in a way that locks them in, and is then sewn down again with another Plain Seam along the other side of the seam’s width .

13. LAPPED SEAM A lapped seam is typically used with fabrics that don’t fray, such as leather and fleece. For a lapped seam, the right side of the fabric faces up and the pieces overlap, instead of right or wrong sides together .

14. FUNDAMENTALS OF CLOTHING CONSTRUCTIONS Fabric Considerations : interfacing, Interlining, Lining other support forms When working with fabrics for sewing, it's essential to consider various support materials and techniques to achieve the desired structure, stability, and finish for your garments. These include interfacing, interlining, lining, and other support forms : Interfacing: Interfacing is a material that is used to add structure and stability to certain areas of a garment, such as collars, cuffs, plackets, and buttonholes. It is available in various weights and types, including fusible (iron-on) and sew-in interfacing. Fusible interfacing is activated by heat and bonds to the fabric when ironed, while sew-in interfacing is stitched in place. Interfacing prevents fabric from stretching, wrinkling, or collapsing in areas where it's applied .

15. INTERFACING

16. FUNDAMENTALS OF CLOTHING CONSTRUCTIONS Fabric Considerations : interfacing, Interlining, Lining other support forms Interlining: Interlining is a layer of fabric placed between the garment's main fabric and lining to provide warmth, insulation, or additional structure. It is commonly used in cold-weather garments, such as coats, to add thermal insulation. Interlining can also be used in tailored garments to add body and shape .

17. Lining: Lining is a fabric layer sewn into the interior of a garment to provide a smooth, finished look, to protect the main fabric, and to make the garment more comfortable to wear. Lining can be used in jackets, dresses, skirts, and pants. Lining fabrics can vary, including satin, silk, acetate, and polyester, depending on the desired effect and the garment's purpose

18. Underlining: Underlining involves sewing a layer of fabric (usually lightweight) to the wrong side of the main fabric pieces before assembling the garment. It can add structure and opacity to lightweight or sheer fabrics. Underlining is especially useful for making the main fabric and lining behave as a single layer.

19. Facing: Facings are self-fabric or contrasting fabric pieces used to finish the edges of openings like necklines, armholes, and hems. They provide a clean, professional look and prevent fraying. Facings can also serve as an alternative to lining in certain areas .

20. Stabilizers and Support Forms: In addition to interfacing, you may use various stabilizers and support forms for specific purposes, such as shoulder pads, boning, and bra cups. Shoulder pads can add structure and shape to shoulders in tailored garments. Boning is often used in corsets and bodices to provide structure and support. Bra cups can be sewn into dresses and tops to eliminate the need for a separate bra .