Plain Single Jersey Fabric.pptx

Describes the basic features of plain single jersey fabric

1. Weft Knitted Fabrics 1

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3. Plain or single jersey 3

4. Plain 4 Patterning with Yarn Plain is produced by the needles knitting as a single set, drawing the loops away from the technical back and towards the technical face side of the fabric. Example: Jersey lily.

5. 5 --- Smooth --- Having the appearance of columns of V ’ s in wales . Technical face: --- Having the appearance of columns of interlocking semi-circles . Technical back:

6. Features: Used only a single set needle. Simplest and most economical production . 40% potential recovery after stretching . High covering power. Probability of curling yarn. Technical face is smooth and v-shape will show the wales . Technical back is rough and the head of the needle loop and the bases of the sinker loops from columns of interlocking semi-circles . If yarn breaks, needle loops successively un-mesh down a wale and sinker loops un-mesh up a wale. This structures break down is termed ‘ Laddering ’. It is known as ‘ Shaker stitch ’ as its coarse gauge of about 3 needles per inch . Plain can be un-roved . In plain un-roving can be prevented by binding off . 6

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8. Properties 8 Unrove stretching curl

9. Laddering: If the yarn breaks, needle loops successively un-mesh down a wale and sinker loop un-mesh up a wale; this structure break down is termed as laddering . To prevent laddering, certain ladder resist structures have been devised . 9

10. Uses: Suitable for ladies hosiery. Suitable for single jersey fabric. Suitable for fully fashioned fabric. Suitable for ladies suiting known as ‘ Jersey lily .’ Men’s underwear. T-shirts. 10

11. Circular Knitting Machine 11

12. Plain Circular Latch needle machine: Or Single jersey Circular knit machine: Single jersey fabric is produced by the plain circular latch needle machine. One set of latch needle is used. Latch needle, cylinder and sinker ring revolve through the stationary knitting cam systems. Stationary yarn feeders are situated at regular intervals around the circumference of the cylinder. Yarn is supplied from cones, placed either on an integral overhead bobbin stand or on a free standing creels through tensioners , stop motions and guide eyes down to the yarn feeder guides. 12

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14. The fabric, in tubular form, is drawn downwards from inside the needle cylinder by tension rollers and is wound onto the fabric batching roller of the winding- down frame. The winding down mechanism revolves in rack over with the and fabric tube. As the sinker cam plate is mounted outside on the needle circle, the centre of the cylinder is open and the machine is referred to as an open top or sinker top machine. Approximately suitable count may be obtained by using formula- Cotton spun count, N e C = G 2 /18 Worsted spun count, N e W = G 2 /15. 14

15. The knitting head 1.Yarn feeder guide, which is associated with its own set of knitting cams. 2.Latch needle. 3.Holding down sinker; one between every needle space. 4.Needle cylinder (revolving clockwise) 5.Cylinder driving wheel. 6.Cylinder driving gear. 7.Sinker cam-cap. 8.Sinker trick ring. 9.Needle retaining spring. 10.Needle operating cams. 11.Cam box. 12.Cam plate. 13.Head plate. 14.Cylinder driving pinion attached to the main drive shaft.

16. Different parts of Single jersey knitting machine: Package carrier: To hold the yarn package. Yarn guide: To guide yarn definite path. Feeder in (signal lamp, magnet) for any problem. Latch needles : To form loops. Sinker : To open or close the latch of needle. Needle detector : To detect needle if there is no needle at any point. Fabric detector. Cam (Knit cam, Tuck cam, miss cam): To up and down the needles. VDQ pulley (Variable diameter pulley): To control fabric GSM. Take up roller: To receive the fabric. Batch roller: To wind the fabric. Needle : Latch needle: For loop formation. Machine monitor. 17

17. Knitting Action of Plain Knit Machine Knitting action of a plain circular latch needle machine

18. a)Rest position: The sinker is forward, holding down the loop whilst the needle rises from the rest position. b)Clearing: The needle has been raised to its highest position clearing the old loop from its latch. c)Yarn feeding: The sinker is partially withdrawn allowing the feeder to present its yarn to the descending needle hook and also freeing the old loop so that it can slide up the needle stem. d)Knock over: The sinker is fully withdrawn whilst the needle descends to knock over its old loop on the sinker belly. e)Holding down: The sinker moves forward to hold down new loop in its thread whilst the needle rises under the influence of the up throw cam to the rest position where the head of the open hook just protrudes above the sinker belly.

19. Single Jersey Derivatives The structural modifications are used to a very great extent in designing plain-knit structures by modifying the order of knitting. The plain knit structures can be modified with the following alternatives. - Knit loop and miss loop - Knit loop and tuck loop - Knit Loop, miss loop and tuck ioop . The following figure illustrates the notations of some simple tuck and float stitch single jersey fabrics. 20

20. Plain Knit Derivatives 21 1. Single lacoste 2. Double lacoste 3. Single pique Polo pique/Double pique Two thread fleece Three thread fleece French terry etc 8.Jacquard knits 9.Knitted velour 10.Plaited knits 11. Pile knits

21. 1. Cross Miss Design: Cross miss is a miss-knit single jersey structure. So one set of needle is used to produce this structure. The repeat of the structure completes on two courses. Knitting sequence for a repeat as follows: - First course: Knit on all odd number needles and miss on all even number needles. - Second course: Miss on all odd number needles and knit on all even number needles. 22

22. 2. Birds Eye or Double Cross Miss Design: > Birds eye is a knit-miss single jersey structure. So one set of needle is used to produce this structure. The repeat of the structure completes on four courses. Knitting sequence for a repeat as follows: 23

23. First course: Knit on all odd number needles and miss on all even number needles. Second course: Knit on all odd number needles and miss on all even number needles. Similar as first course. Third course: Miss on all odd number needles and knit on all even number needles. Fourth course: Miss on all odd number needles and knit on all even number needles. Similar as third course. 24

24. 7. Single Lacoste or Fred Perry Design: > Single lacoste is a knit-tuck single jersey structure. So one set of needle is used to produce this structure. It is also a very popular structure to produce cut and sew knit wear. The prominency of the design appears on the back side of the fabric. The repeat of the structure completes on four courses. Knitting sequence for a repeat as follows: 25

25. 1 st ourse : Knit on all odd number needles and tuck on all even number needles. 2 nd course: Knit on all needles. 3 rd course: Tuck on all odd number needles and knit on all even number needles, which is opposite of the first course. 4 th course: Similar as second course knit on an needles. 26

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27. 8. Double Lacoste Design: Double lacoste is a tuck-knit single jersey structure. So one set of needle is used to produce this structure. It is also a very popular structure to produce cut and sew knit wear. The prominence of this design near to the single lacoste fabric. The repeat of the structure completes on six courses. Knitting sequence for a repeat as follows: 28

28. - 1 st course: Knit on all odd number needles and tuck on all even number needles. - 2 nd course: Same as first course i.e. Knit on all odd number needles and tuck on all even number needles. - 3 rd course: Knit on all needles. 4 th course : Tuck on all odd number needles and knit on all even number needles, which is opposite of the rirst course. -5 th course: Same as fourth course i.e. Tuck on all odd number needles and knit on all even number needles. - 6 th course : Similar as third course knit on all needles. 29