4
FS Buying 2nd Hand
pays to be cautious. Avron suggests,
if you don’t have a great deal of
experience buying bikes, that you take
a friend with good technical knowledge
of bikes with you. From Full Sus we’d
suggest you go with your gut, if the
deal appears dodgy rather walk away.
With that out of the way, let’s get you on the
best bike for you at a reasonable price…
Supersize your wheels
The first decision you’ll have to make
is the obvious one. Yip you’re going to
have to choose: 26er or 29er.
In SA we’re distance bedonnerd. I
blame the Comrades. Or maybe it’s
in our national psyche, but we love
ultra-distance events. And because of
that if you’re going to be racing, or even
just riding timed events, you’re going to
need a 29er. As Martin de Gersigny, the
first reader to submit a story to Full Sus,
found out on the Makadas Overland
Tour riding a 26er in a group of big
wheelers is a nightmare. The advantages
of the bigger wheels are much touted,
but here they are again just in case: “less
rolling friction, more comfortable ride,
better obstacle rollover, better traction”
and because of the extra weight they
have a more rolling inertia.
They not all positives however, and if
you’re particularly short you can have a
few troubles with getting a comfortable
set up. Also big wheels are harder to
manoeuvre in tight situations especially
at low speeds and because of their
inertia they require more energy to
accelerate. Overall though, if you’re
planning on taking on the stage racing
scene then a 29er is the way to go.
If you’re not going to be racing and
are more likely to be found hitting the
single track than pounding out the
kilometres then you should consider
a 26er rather. In North America and
Europe where mountain bikers regularly
take to the summer trails of ski resorts,
the 26er still has a great deal of market
value. Back here it’s not the case;
publishing ed Shayne practically gave
his beloved Cannondale leftie away in
February, because the market for 26ers
has fallen through the floor.
NATIONAL BICYCLE REGISTRYNATIONAL BICYCLE REGISTRY
One of the thoughts behind the national bicycle registry is to create list of all
(or at least as many as possible) stolen bikes in SA, then all cyclists purchasing
a second hand bike can check the Stolen Bike list before taking ownership of
their target bike. This minimises the risk of you purchasing a stolen bike and
perpetuating bike thefts by inadvertently supporting criminals. Find out more by
going to www.nbrza.co.za.
The Bike Registry aims to list all Stolen Bikes in one public spot, so cyclists who
want to buy a second hand bike can checks the Stolen Bike list before they buy. In
time, a potential buyer of a second hand cycle could verify original ownership.
CYCLE TRADERSCYCLE TRADERS
Avron Sirin has been running Cycle Traders in Woodstock for 18 years
and he specialises in quality pre-owned bikes. If you’ve got a bike to sell and
don’t want to go through the hassle of posting and administrating an ad,
or if you want to trade in our old model for an upgrade drop him a line at
[email protected] or a call at 021 448 0812.
“If you want
a race ready
machine
you’re going
to have to pay
for it, but then
you’ve got
the right to be
fastidious.”
So it’s buyer’s market if you’re after
a smaller wheeled bike. A quick glance
through The Hub’s offerings suggest
that you’ll be able to pick up a very well
speced bike for between R8 000 for a
Yeti AS-R and R15 000 for a Specialized
Enduro Comp. But given Shayne’s
experience, I’d suggest that you open
negotiations lower that the asking price
because while they’re getting plenty
of views the bikes aren’t exactly flying
off the net. So if you don’t intend on
riding long distances but rather want
something fun to blast up and down
the mountain on, for a reasonable price,
I’d strongly suggest a 26er.
But if you don’t want your mates to
ride away from you while you’re doing a
leisurely 30km ride along the jeep tracks
of the Karoo, then you’re going to have
to get a 29er. Again you’ve got a choice
to make. Go hard tail if you don’t intend
on making challenging descents or
spending 3 hours plus at go on your bike.
But if you’re drawn by your competitive
South African nature to beat your
neighbour in the next Wine2Whales, then
you’d better go full sus. (I could hardly
advise anything else could I?)
You’re unfortunately not going to get
the same quality specs as you would
on a hard tail 29er or a full sus 26er.
With a perusal of what the Hub has to
offer I can tell you that you can expect
to pay between R 17 500 for a 2011
Giant Anthem X29 and R 25 500 for
PYGA ONETEN29. But in the second
hand 29er market you have less power
as a buyer so you’ll need to shop smart
to come away with a deal.
There are still some things in your
favour, so you’d better keep reading…
What warranty?
While you get a fairly decent warranty
with the purchase of your new bike,
it’s unfortunately not transferable to
the second owner, regardless of the
number of years left on said warranty.
Apparently the one of the few bike
manufacturers that allows for warranty
transfer on sale is the American
boutique Calfee brand. Which is great,
should you want a very nice looking,
eco-friendly bamboo bike or a hand
crafted carbon model. But having
looked through their catalogue it seems
unlikely you’d sell one on, as they’re
almost more art than bike.
But I digress; the lack of a warranty
is one of the reasons why bikes
depreciate faster than a French car.
Stirling Senior’s advice is to buy a
second hand bike that’s a bargain not
a bike that’s a reasonable deal, for this
very reason. The fact of the matter is
that you should be buying a second
hand bike to ride, preferably hard. But it
should be at the right price and be the
right fit for you and your riding.
What to look for in a
2nd hand bike
There are things you can overlook and
things you can’t, but if you’re buying
from an individual rather than a shop
it’s always good to exercise the same
caution you would when buying a
used car.
The frame is quite obviously the most
important aspect. Firstly make sure you
get the right size for you. Then check
the headtube and its immediate vicinity
for cracks, dents or defects in the welds
joining the head to top and down tubes,
these are deal breakers. After that check
the top and down tubes themselves for
cracks or dents and check the welds.
Remember carbon can be fixed, so a
cracked full carbon frame might not be
the end of the world. But you’ll have
to check prices on getting it fixed or it
might not be worth it.
Next up check the fork and rear shock,
ask to see the receipts for the last service
and give the stanchions a thorough
inspection, If they’ve got any chips or
scratches they might well need to be
replaced, which could get costly. Also
check for leaks around the dust seals,
which could signal a suspension rebuild.
As for the rest, take the bike for a spin.
If you’re feeling industrious you should
even remove the wheels to get a better
idea for the condition of the bearings.
But with bearings, breaks, cranks, wheels,
the bottom bracket and the drivetrain a
slight noise, a bit of play or an occasional
creak might not be the end of the world.
It all depends on what you’re paying
and how much you expect to replace
after you’ve bought the bike. Remember
some, unscrupulous, folks try to off load
a bike just before it’s due an expensive
drivetrain refit. So if there is any wear or
play you could end up with a 3 Grand
refit bill along with your first service to
your newly purchased second hand
machine. If you want a race ready bike
you’re going to have to pay for it, but
then you’ve got the right to be fastidious.
Speaking of which; if the bike doesn’t
look well maintained, if there is a limited
or absent service history, or if its drive
train is dirty, it’s probably a sign of a
careless owner. Either haggle him, or her,
down or walk away. Chances are the
layers of caked on mud are hiding serious
problems. It’s like buying a car, if you’re
shopping around for your kid’s first motor
– all-be-it a cheapy, you’re not going to
accept an accident damaged vehicle
which has been serviced in someone’s
back yard. If you approach buying a bike
with the same mind-set, the sellers might
hate you but you’re less likely to come
home with a dud you can’t unload.
Buying solo
You as a buyer of a bike from an
individual, selling via a private ad on the
internet, are not deemed a consumer
in terms of the Consumer Protection
Act (CPA) because the “particular
goods or services are not marketed in
the ordinary course of the supplier’s
business”. It’s technically a grey area
really because the act should protect
you in any case of willing buyer – willing
seller. But where there is language there
is room for ambiguity and with some
clever twisting you can be left bearing
the brunt of a sale gone wrong.
So you should consider buying from
a bike shop which sells second hand
bikes rather, as the CPA then has you
covered.
Time to
upgrade
...continued