Protein fibers...

1. Protein fibers are fibers of moderate strength, resiliency, and elasticity. They
have excellent moisture absorbency and transport characteristics. They do
not build up static charge. While they have fair acid resistance, they are
readily attacked by bases and oxidizing agents. They tend to yellow in sun
Iight due to oxidative attack.
Silk fibers

2. BOMBYX MORI-commonly called the SILKWORM
SILK

3. Preparation of silk fiber from the larvae.
Silk moths lay eggs on specially prepared paper. The eggs hatch
and the caterpillars (silkworms) are fed fresh mulberry leaves.
After about 35 days and 4 molting, the caterpillars are 10,000
times heavier than when hatched and are ready to begin spinning
a cocoon. A straw frame is placed over the tray of caterpillars,
and each caterpillar begins spinning a cocoon by moving its head
in a "figure 8" pattern. Two glands produce liquid silk and force it
through openings in the head called spinnerets. Liquid silk is
coated in sericin, a water-soluble protective gum, and solidifies on
contact with the air. Within 2–3 days, the caterpillar spins about
1 mile of filament and is completely encased in a cocoon. The silk
farmers then kill most caterpillars by heat, leaving some to
metamorphose into moths to breed the next generation of
caterpillars. Harvested cocoons are then soaked in boiling water
to soften the sericin holding the silk fibers together in a cocoon
shape.
Silk fiber

4. TYPES OF SILK
WILD SILK
A variety of wild silks, produced by caterpillars other than the mulberry silkworm have
been known and used in China, South Asia, and Europe since ancient times. However,
the scale of production was always far smaller than that of cultivated silks. There several
reasons for this: one, they differ from the domesticated varieties in color and texture and
are therefore less uniform, secondarily, cocoons gathered in the wild have usually had
the pupa emerge from them before being discovered so the silk thread that makes up the
cocoon has been torn into shorter lengths, and thirdly, many wild cocoons are covered in
a mineral layer that stymies attempts to reel from them long strands of silk. Thus
previously the only way to obtain silk suitable for spinning into textiles in areas where
commercial silks are not cultivated is by tedious and labor intensive carding.
CULTIVATED SILK
Cultivated silks originate from reared silkworm pupae which are killed by dipping them in
boiling water before the adult moths emerge or by piercing them with a needle, and have
been bred for a white color and no mineral on the surface, factors all contributing to the
ability of whole cocoon to be unravelled as one continuous thread. This permits a much
stronger cloth to be woven from the silk. Wild silks also tend to be more difficult to dye
than silk from the cultivated silkworm. A technique known as demineralizing allows the
mineral layer around the cocoon to be removed, leaving only variability in color as a
barrier from creating a commercial silk industry based on wild silks in parts of the world
where wild silkmoths thrive, such as Africa and South America.

5. From SILK FIBER to SILK YARN.
Silk is a staple fiber and is naturally in filamentous form
The fibers are unwound to produce a continuous thread.
This continuous long filament fiber is shortened into small
pieces to form fine threads. Since a single thread is too fine
and fragile for commercial use, anywhere from three to ten
strands are spun together to form a single thread of silk. It is
called the spun silk or silk yarn.
SILK YARN

6. SILK FABRIC
Silk yarn is woven to make the Silk Fabrics. The longer the length of the silk
Yarn better is the quality of the silk fabric. Quality of the silk fabric is determined by the fineness and
strength of the fabric. Best quality silk fabrics are very expensive.
Silk fabrics were meant for the rich and powerful in India since the ancient times. Ancient texts and
mythological tales tell us that for a long time, silk fabrics were specially cultured and developed for
the use of the royalty. Times have changed, and anybody who can buy silk products can use them
without reservation. However, silk still remains one of the most sought after and expensive fabrics
and even now, most of the common masses cannot afford silk fabrics.
Silk fabrics are valued chiefly due to their luster and drapability. It is used not only in garments, but
also in draperies, ribbons and head gear.
Silk fabric
Silk dress

7. APPERANCE OF SILK FABRIC.
Silk fibers from the Bombyx mori silkworm have a triangular cross section
with rounded corners, 5-10 µm wide. The fibroin-heavy chain is composed
mostly of beta-sheets, due to a 59-mer amino acid repeat sequence with
some variations. The flat surfaces of the fibrils reflect light at many angles,
giving silk a natural shine. The fiber having sharp edges reflect light in
several angles giving the fabric the glossy lustrous appearance.The cross-
section from other silkworms can vary in shape and diameter.
Cross section of silk
fiber.
Glossy appearance of
silk fabric

8. Surface contour.
Silk has a smooth, soft texture that is not slippery, unlike many synthetic fibers.
Elasticity
Its elasticity is moderate to poor: if elongated even a small amount, it remains stretched
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF SILK FABRIC
Moisture content
It has a good moisture regain of 11%
Strength
Silk is one of the strongest natural fibers but loses up to 20% of its strength when wet
and retains wet spots.
Hence it is preferably sent for dry cleaning.
Length
Silkworm silk was used as the standard for the denier, a measurement of linear
density in fibers. Silkworm silk therefore has a linear density of approximately 1
den, or 1.1 dtex.

9. Light sensitivity
Silk is very sensitive to light. It can be weakened if exposed to too much sunlight.
Chemical resistance
Silk is resistant to most mineral acids, except for sulfuric acid,
which dissolves it. It is yellowed by perspiration
Effect of insects
It may also be attacked by insects, especially if left dirty.
Silk yarns.

10. Wool fiber
Wool is the textile fiber obtained from sheep and certain other 
animals, including cashmere from goats, mohair from 
goats, from vicuña, alpaca, and camel from animals in the camel family, 
and angora from rabbits. It has several qualities that distinguish it from hair 
or fur: it is crimped, it is elastic, and it grows in staples(clusters). The term 
wool is usually restricted to describing the fibrous protein derived from the 
specialized skin cells called follicles in sheep. 
Long and short hair wool

11. Characteristics
     Wool's scaling and crimp make it 
easier to spin the fleece by helping 
the individual fibers attach to each 
other, so that they stay together. 
Because of the crimp, wool fabrics 
have a greater bulk than other 
textiles, and retain air, which causes 
the product to retain heat. 
Insulation also works both 
ways; Bedouins and Tuaregs use 
wool clothes to keep heat out. 
Clothes worn by Bedouins

12. Shearing
Sheep shearing is the process by which the woolen fleece of a sheep is
cut off. After shearing, the wool is separated into four main categories:
fleece (which makes up the vast bulk), broken, bellies, and locks. The
quality of fleeces is determined by a technique known as wool classing.
Merino shearing
Scouring
Wool straight off a sheep, known as
"greasy wool" or "wool in the grease",
contains a high level of
valuable lanolin, as well as dirt, dead
skin, sweat residue, pesticide, and
vegetable matter. Before the wool can
be used for commercial purposes, it
must be scoured, a process of cleaning
the greasy wool. Scouring may be as
simple as a bath in warm water, or as
complicated as an industrial process
using detergent and alkali, and
specialized equipment.

13. Wool is made by cutting or tearing apart existing wool fabric
and respinning the resulting fibers. As this process makes the
wool fibers shorter, the remanufactured fabric is inferior to the
original. The recycled wool may be mixed with raw wool,
wool noil, or another fiber such as cotton to increase the
average fiber length. Such yarns are typically used as weft
yarns with a cotton warp. This process was invented in
the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire and created a
micro-economy in this area for many years.
Wool yarn

14. Wool fabric is equipped with different characteristics like warm, resists to wrinkle,
wear and tear, it is light weight and durable which also absorbs moisture. Have been
largely used in blankets and carpets, today almost every wardrobe contains garment
made of woolen fabric.
Wool fabric and its uses
Wool fabric

15. Types of wool
Ragg is a sturdy wool fiber made
into yarn and used in many rugged
applications like gloves.
Worsted is a strong, long-
staple, combed wool yarn with a
hard surface.
Woollen is a soft, short-
staple, carded wool yarn typically
used for knitting. In traditional
weaving, woollen weft yarn (for
softness and warmth) is frequently
combined with a worsted warp yarn
for strength on the loom.
Worsted wool suit

16. • Angora
• Camel
• Rabbit
• Goat

17. ANGORA FIBER
Angora wool or Angora
fiber refers to the downy
coat produced by
the Angora rabbit. While
their names are similar,
Angora fiber is distinct
from mohair, which comes
from the Angora goat.
Angora is known for its
softness, thin fibers, and
what knitters refer to as a
halo (fluffiness). It is also
known for its silky texture.
Good quality Angora fiber
is around 12-16
micrometers in diameter,
and can cost around $ 10 -
16 per ounce. Angora
fibers are hollow, which
gives them their
characteristic floating feel.
Angora

18. Fur Production
Angora fur is produced in
Europe, Chile, China and
the United States.
Harvesting occurs up to
three times a year (about
every 4 months) and is
collected
by plucking, shearing, or
collection of the molting fur. Angora rabbits being sheared

19. Quality
The premium first quality wool is
taken from the back and upper
sides of the rabbit. This is usually
the longest and cleanest fiber on
the rabbit. There should not be
hay or vegetable matter in the
fiber .
Second quality is from the neck
and lower sides, and may have
some vegetable matter.
Third quality is the buttocks and
legs and any other areas that
easily felt and are of shorter
length..
Fourth quality is totally
unsalvageable, and consists of the
larger felted bits or stained fiber. 
Premium quality garment

20. MOHAIR
Mohair usually refers to a silk-
like fabric or yarn made from
the hair of the Angora goat. It is
one of the oldest textile fibers in
use. It is both durable and resilient.
It is notable for its high luster and
sheen, and is often used in fiber
blends to add these qualities to a
textile. Mohair also
takes dye exceptionally well.
Mohair is also warm as it has great
insulating properties. It is durable,
and resistant to moisture-wicking,
stretch, flame and creases. It is
considered to be a luxury fiber,
like cashmere, angora and silk,
and is usually more expensive than
most wool that comes from
sheep.
Angora goat
Red mohair fabric

21. Camel hair fiber
Camel hair is, variously, 
the hair of a camel; a type 
of cloth made from camel hair; or a 
substitute for authentic camel hair; 
and is classified as a specialty hair 
fiber. When woven into haircloth, 
using the outer protective fur 
called guard hair, camel hair is 
coarse and inflexible. However, 
other varieties of camel hair cloth
—especially those that blend 
camel hair with wool— or from the 
pure under coat are soft and plush. 
Pure camel hair, frequently used 
for coats, is gathered when camels 
molt in warmer seasons. This 
undercoat is very soft, and is 
separated from the dense, coarse 
guard hair for cloth use. 

22. • A camel can produce around 5 pounds of hair a year. The
specialty animal fiber is collected by a number of methods
including combing, shearing, and collecting the hair shed
naturally during the molting season. During the molting season
the hair falls off first from the neck, then the mane and lastly the
body hair. The molting season occurs in late spring and is a
process that takes six to eight weeks.
•There are five primary steps to the production of camel hair;
collection, sorting, dehairing, spinning, and weaving or knitting.
After collecting the hair either through shearing or collecting
during the molting season the hair goes through a sorting method.
In this process the coarse hair is separated from the fine, soft
hairs. Then sent to be spun into yarn and used for
either weaving or knitting.

23. Uses Of Camel Hair
The fine fur of the camel hair are often blended with fine
wool to create fabrics for men's and women's coats, jackets
and blazers, skirts, hosiery, sweaters, gloves, scarves,
mufflers, and caps and robes. The long coarser hair removed
in the dehairing process is also used which can be made into
carpet backing as well as waterproof coats that are very warm
for colder climates.
Coat made of camel hair
Camel hair blanket

24. Rabbit hair fiber
Rabbit hair (also called rabbit
fur, cony, comb, convey or lapin) is 
the fur of the common rabbit. It is most 
commonly used in the making of fur hats 
and coats, and is considered quite 
valuable.
The hair of a rabbit can be divided into 
three types:
guide hairs: external hairs, long and rough
guard hairs (also called "barbes“) four 
guard hairs surround each guide hair, 
sealing the coat
down: there are around sixty down hairs 
for each guide hair; they are very short 
and barely visible, and serve to insulate 
the rabbit.
Rabbit hair

25. Quality
Rabbit hair is commonly considered a
byproduct of the ordinary process of breeding
rabbits for meat, and as such is manufactured in
vast quantities in England and France; more
than seventy million pelts a year in France
alone. However, the quality of fur from these
rabbits tends to be low, as the rabbits are
slaughtered before reaching twelve weeks old
and still have the infant coat. In temperate
climates, the highest quality furs are obtained in
winter from rabbits over five months old, when
the thickness of the fur is even; at other times of
year, varying degrees of hair shedding causes
uneven patches in the fur. The coat is also at its
thickest at this time of year. The highest quality
pelts are suitable for clothing, and typically
constitute less than half of all pelts collected.