Restraining of Animals

Animals, Education

1. Restraining of animals Www.RCVetS.com

2. General Informations about Restraining of animals An art to handle the animals Ample information about the psychology of animals/cattle Nervous cow Docile cow The Balker Chronic Kicker

3. Cattle Characteristics Prey animals Grazers Panoramic vision 310-360  Blind side behind them Keen hearing

4. The handler’s body language, tone of voice, mental state, eye contact, and physical movements can influence the patient’s behavior greatly . In order to adhere to this standard, the veterinary assistant must be well trained and skilled in the art of restraint. Animal patients can harm handlers, and the handler can likewise harm the patient if they are not careful and sufficiently trained.

5. Objectives Restraint involves limiting the movement of a patient so a medical procedure can be performed. The veterinary assistant will often restrain the patient to increase the ability of the veterinarian and/or technician in completing vital procedures. Understand potential risks that exist with the practice of large animal veterinary medicine. KNOW quick release knot. Understand the basic natural instincts of each large animal species. Understand the importance of protecting themselves, veterinary personnel, and clients while handling patients. Be familiar with common methods of large animal restraint and be able to apply them safely, efficiently, and effectively.

6. Safety One of the most dangerous occupations Death rate: 21 workers per 100,000 110,000 disabling accidents per year Reasons Human error Being tired Not paying attention Using poor judgment

7. Cattle Restraint “Stress” Loss of production results in lower profits. Increased feed requirements result in increased cost. Decreased immunity results in increased illness. Death results in lower profits.

8. Cattle Restraint (cont’d) Stress Increased respiration High mortality Teeth grinding Poor product quality Nervousness Poor growth rate Poor reproduction Increased flight zone

9. Most veterinarian procedures required two stages of animal handling: The individual most be separate from the herd (herding instinct) The individual must be restrained appropriately

10. Restraint Physical, Chemical and Psychological restraint Prepare Be familiar with your equipment Protect the animal Protect yourself Protect your coworkers Liability: The veterinarian is responsible

11. M ajor types of restraint • Psychological – this is the least restrictive type of restraint and would be used in combination with other types of restraint. Using a soft, soothing voice while gently stroking the patient will help calm and sooth them. • Physical – this is the primary method of restraining an animal and involves using the handler’s hands or body along with muzzles, ropes or other equipment.

12. Major types of restraint Chemical – this method utilizes drugs such as sedatives, tranquilizers and anesthesia to alter the patient’s mental state, allowing the animal to stay immobilized and/or without pain, and causing the patient to be cooperative during procedures. Chemical restraint would be used if the patient is particularly difficult to handle, if the patient is in pain.

13. Different Methods of cattle restraining

14. Halter Select a 12' to 15' (feet) (3.6m to 4.5m) length of half-inch (1.27cm) three-stranded rope.  Any type of rope, from cotton to nylon will work. However your choice depends on the strength needed, durability required, and the cost. 

15. Run the long end of the rope into and through the eye of the loop.  This completes the  halte.

16. Head restraint may be applied to cooperative animals, without use of a chute, but most individuals must be placed in a chute first.

17. TAIL RESTRAINT

18. NOSE LEAD Tail restraint Nose lead IV injection Udder surgery Examine hoof Restraint of the head

19. RESTRAINT OF THE HEAD

20. Nose leads They apply blunt, pinching pressure to the nasal septum. Supplement with halter and/or with head restraint Nasal septum may be torn with violent movement

21. FRONT LEG HOPPLE In this way a front leg may be raised and held off the ground for examination or treatment .  This restraint can also be used to make a cow stand still and to avoid her from kicking with a hind leg. A rope with an eye in one end is used to form a loop around the pastern.  The other end of the rope passes over the withers where is should be held by an assistant so that it can be released quickly if the cow starts to go down.

22. Leg Restraint: Front Leg Hoppel ASSISTANT A rope is used to form a loop around the pastern. The other end of the rope passes over the withers where is should be held by an assistant so that it can be released quickly if the cow starts to go down.

23. RAISING THE REAR LEG MANUALLY  About the best way to hold a cow's foot for hoof trimming is for the operator to rest it on his own knee.  A nose lead is used and the cow's head pulled to the side opposite that of the foot to be lifted.  The operator grasps the leg at the pastern with his left hand.

24. RAISING THE REAR LEG, BEAM HOOK METHOD This is a method of raising a cow's foot off the ground and holding it in a position which will permit one to examine it or to treat it.  It is particularly useful for the treatment of hoof rot in dairy herds . By means of a nose lead the cow's head is pulled. to the side opposite the leg which is to be lifted .A set of beam hooks is fastened to a beam above and somewhat behind the cow.  The free end of the rope is passed upward through the ring of the beam hook so that it goes in a direction toward the head of the cow.  The animal may struggle; but if her foot is lifted and the rope tightened simultaneously, the foot can be raised high enough to permit one to work on it .

25. SPECULUM EXAMINATION For any thorough examination of a cow's mouth one should use a speculum and have a good strong light.  The speculum with its two arms together is slipped into the mouth and then fastened by a strap around the neck.  It may be opened to the desired width by a ratchet on the side.

26. HALTER TIE This is a good knot for fastening halter ropes as it is easily untied.

27. TAIL ROPE The purpose of this restraint is to keep the cow's tail out of the way when a placenta is being removed or the udder is being treated .

28. TAIL TIE    The tail tie, a method of securely tying a rope to a horse's tail, has many applications.  Much of a horse's weight may be raised or moved by a tail rope, but it should never be used on a cow except to hold her tail out of its normal position.  A cow's weight, or a part  of it, should never be lifted by her tail.  ON neither a horse nor a cow should the end of a tail rope ever be tied to a fixed object.

29. 1. With the longer piece on the right, hold a rope over the tail just at the end of the last coccygeal vertebra. 2 . Fold the rest of the tail upward over the rope. 3. Pass the end of the rope behind the tail and make a bight in it. 4. Bring the bight over the folded tail. 5. Pull it tight through the rope which is looped around the tail.

30. CASTING RESTRAINTS Cows are more easily and safely cast than horses since they struggle less and are more willing to lie down.  Bedding should be arranged for them none the less, as it may save them from bruises. Bulls are more vigorous and are harder to cast and control.  It may be safer to cast them with a double side-line harness than with one of the squeezes.

31. BURLEY METHOD OF CASTING This method of casting cattle, devised by Dr. D. R. Burley of Georgia, has many advantages over the other casting methods . It is simply passed around the animal's body which takes less time.  Second , this restraint does not put pressure over the thorax and thus does not interfere with the action of the heart and lungs.  Third , it does not endanger the genital organs of the bull or the mammary vessels of the cow.  Finally , with this restraint both rear legs may be tied with the ends of the casting rope.  

32. While the cow is being held by a strong halter or by a nose lead a forty foot piece of rope is placed over her back with its center at the withers.  The ends are carried between the forelegs and crossed at the sternum.   One end is carried up each side of the animal's body and the two are crossed again over the back.  Each end passes downward between the rear legs going between the inner surface of the legs and under the udder or scrotum, as the case may be . When the ends of the rope are pulled, the cow will fall.  The operator may control the direction of the fall by pulling the casting ropes so that the animal is forced to one side or the other.

33. To tie the rear leg the operator keeps both ropes tout and slides the uppermost one along the under surface of the rear leg to the fetlock.  He flexes the leg and makes a half hitch around the fetlock .

34. The end is then carried around the leg above the hock, across the cannon bone, and back around the fetlock.  The leg is secured by several such "figure 8's ".

35.  To tie the front leg a short heavy cord or rope about six feet long is needed.  One end of it is fastened around the pastern with a clove hitch leaving a free end about eight inches long.  The front leg is flexed and the long end of the cord carried forward and passed under the main casting rope descending from the withers .

36. The cord is passed around the flexed front leg several times and tied in a reefer's knot to the short free end at the pastern .   The animal is rolled over and the rear leg of the other side is tied with the other end of the casting rope.  With another six foot cord, the other front leg is tied, and the animal is then completely restrained.

37. ROPE SQUEEZE This is a standard method of casting a cow.  The rope for this restraint may be arranged on a cow while she is in the stanchion.  She may then be led to the place where it is desired that she lie down and tension applied to the end of the rope. Make a loop around the cow's neck using a bowline knot placed as  indicated in the drawing.

38. Throw the end of the rope over her back to the opposite side .

39.  Reaching under the cow, pick it up an bring it around her body and under the standing part of the rope near the bowline to form a half hitch just behind the shoulder .

40. By tossing the end over the cow's back again, make another half hitch just in from of the udder.  Pulling the rope will force the cow to lie down .

41. EYE SPLICE WITH A QUICK RELEASE KNOT The quick-release honda is a metal eye which can be quickly attached to or released from the standing part of a rope or from another rope.  With it the end of a rope can be attached to a loop without a knot.  It is preferable that this honda be of aluminum .

42. SQUARE KNOT Cross the ends of the left rope over and around the end of the right rope to make an overhand knot .

43. SQUARE KNOT Cross the new right end over and then around the new left, making a second overhand knot .

44. SQUARE KNOT Pull Tight

45. SQUARE KNOT TIED WITH ONE HAND Hold the end with the thumb and index finger of the right hand.  The end must pass between the thumb and index finger in the direction illustrated.  Pass the standing part behind the fingers, bend it around the little finger and across the inside surface of the last three fingers .

46. Flex the middle finger to pull the standing part in toward the palm.  Extend the thumb and forefinger to cross the end over the standing part .

47. With the middle and ring fingers grasp the end after it has crossed over the standing part.  Release the hold on the end above the crossing .

48. With the middle and ring fingers carry the end under the standing part to form the first overhand part of the square knot.  Pull tight .

49. To begin the second overhand part again grasp the end between the thumb and forefinger.  Release the part held by the ring and middle fingers and place the last three fingers so that the end crosses over them as illustrated .

50. Bring the standing part down over the inside surface of the fingers of the right hand.

51. Flex the middle finger to pull the standing part in toward the palm, and extend the thumb and forefinger to cross the end over the standing part .

52. Grasp the end as it crosses over the standing part between the middle and ring fingers and release the hold of the thumb and forefinger .

53. Pull the end around under the standing part to form the second overhand part of the square knot.  Pull tight to complete the knot .

54. GRANNY KNOT By mistake this knot is often tied when a square knot is intended.  A granny knot will slip under strain whereas a square knot will hold firmly Cross the end of the left rope over and wrap it once around the end of the right rope, as in the square knot.  Cross the new left rope over and then around the new right.   Pull tight .

55. SURGEON'S KNOT This knot is similar to the square knot but has one more turn of the end around the standing part in the beginning.  This added turn in the first part of the knot makes it a very useful one not only for suturing, but also for any other work in which it is desirable that the first part of the knot hold fast while the second part is being tied.

56. Cross the left cord over the right and wrap either end twice around the standing part of the other cord. Cross the end now on the right over and once around the left end.  Pull tight.

57. REEFER'S KNOT This knot is much like the square knot but is more readily untied.  It will not slip under strain .

58. Pass the end of the left rope over and around the end of the right rope.  Form a bight in the new right strand. Pass the bight over and around the left rope . Hold the bight in the left hand and pull the end of the right rope. To untie pull the free end of the bight .

59. Cattle Restraint (cont’d) Tailing The middle of the tail is grasped and twisted forward to one side Too much pressure can break the tail. Do not stand directly behind them.

60. Restraint Squeeze chute Portable cattle chutes with head restraint are most desirable Head can be restrained with halter

61. Chute Restraint The working chute is designed to hold one animal at the time

62. Cattle Restraint (cont’d) Chutes Head gate Tail gate Squeeze

63. Chute Restraint Self closing head catch or manually

64. Nose lead

65. Cattle Restraint (cont’d) Halters

66. Nose rings Placed through the nasal septum and are often used in bulls Should not be used to tie the head for head restraint O nly for additional control of the head but: nasal septum can be torn

67. Calf restraint Separate the calf from mother first Lateral recumbency: slide down your legs DO NOT throw calf on ground

68. Calf restraint Flanking (Calves) Reach over calf. Reach down flank and grasp nearest hindleg with one hand. Reach between forelegs and grasp nearest foreleg with other hand. Lift and slide calf to ground. Kneel on neck and thigh. Lift bottom foreleg from ground.

69. Calf restraint Do not throw the calf to the ground Do not place the entire bodyweight on the calf and do not occlude the trachea

70. Approach, Handling and Control of Animals

71. Approach, Handling and Control of Animals

72. Restraining Methods in animals

73. Casting of Animals

74. Casting – Rope Squeeze Casting is a method of forcing an animal to the ground, usually with ropes Prefer R lateral recumbency: discourages bloat Casting - calving

75. Casting – Burley Method Advantages Less time No respiratory/ CVS pressure No pressure in genitalia area

76. Pet Restraint Techniques and Pain Management

77. Intro Pet owners are faced with everyday problems like ear infections, cut paws, or upset stomachs. Basic restraint is vital first step towards investigating hundreds of dog and cat conditions. In dramatic situations, they can save your pet’s life In any situation they ensure that you can safely examine your animal without causing injury to the pet or to you. uptownvetsnyc.com

78. General: Signs of Pain Signs of pain in dogs and cats can be pretty subtle. Animals that didn’t hide signs of injury were more likely to be attacked. You must be alert to changes in behavior to determine if your pet is indeed in pain. Dogs tend to be more vocal and may yelp, hold a hurt paw, or limp. howtodothings.com

79. General: Signs of Pain Cats more often simply hide and refuse to move. Other signs can include panting, drooling, refusing to eat, “hunching” or tucking up a painful stomach, “bowing” a painful neck, flinching when touched, or squinting if an eye is painful or watery.

80. Pain If you suspect spine problems or fractures, don’t use any pain medication for first aid. Since the most common pain relievers can make bleeding worse, do not give as first aid when you aren’t sure about the extent of the problem. NEVER give aspirin to cats. One does of Tylenol is fatal to a cat Veterinarians have much more effective and safer pain medicines that they can give to pets once a diagnosis has been made. drsfostersmith.com

81. Pain Treatment However, there are some effective and safe pain treatments that you can safely use as first aid. Cortaid contains steroids that reduce painful inflammation. It works well on minor cuts and scrapes or insect stings. Products containing benzocaine, like Lanacane or Solarcaine , contain topical anesthetics that numb the pain of sunburn and mouth sores. Benozcaine should not be used on cats. Hot compresses work well on sore joints caused by arthritis Ice numbs the pain of nearly any skin injury, bruise, or burn within minutes. lanacane.com buzzillions.com

82. Restraint To examine an injury to your pet, you likely will need to restrain the animal. A humane restraint serves three purposes: 1. it protects you from being bitten or clawed while administering first aid 2. it restricts your pet’s movements to prevent further injury 3. it keeps your pet in one place so that the injury can be examined and treated

83. Muzzles Any pet will bite as a reflex when hurt While commercial muzzles are available, a home-made muzzle can be nearly or equally as effective

84. Muzzles - short nosed animals Cats and short-nosed dogs (like pugs) are a concern are a challenge because they do not have enough of a nose to tie shut. In this case, one of the best muzzles is a pillowcase.

85. To make a pillowcase muzzle: Fit a cloth bag over the pet’s head and gently hold it around the neck The fabric will keep the teeth engaged and pets often stop struggling once they can’t see You can also pull the case over the pets body as necessary to contain the front legs and/or paws Allow the affected body part to stick out of the pillowcase for access Some treatments, such as a cool water soak for heat stroke, can be done through the pillowcase

86. Muzzles – long nosed dogs You can use any piece of material from a necktie or length of gauze to a panty hose or extra leash Loop the material around your pet’s jaw and tie it in a single knot (half-hitch) on top of his nose. Then bring both ends of the tie back down under his jaw and tie another single knot. Finally, pull the ends behind the base of his neck and tie them in a bow or knot.

87. Restraint Techniques Each form of restraint works best for a specific type of injury The selected technique should leave the injured area accessible for treatment If possible, have one person restrain the animal while another performs the first aid. It is best to place small pets on a counter or tabletop so that they are at waist level…this can prevent you from putting too much weight on an injured body part. Medium or large dogs are best treated on the floor – a long fall could further worsen a serious injury.

88. Reclining Restraint Place your pet on his side, with the injured area facing up. With one hand, grasp the ankle of the foreleg that’s against the ground while gently pressing your forearm across his shoulders. With the other hand, grasp the ankle of the hind leg that’s against the ground while pressing that forearm across his hips. This technique works best for medium-large dogs and/or dogs with prominent eyes (e.g. Pekingese) Holding these types of dogs around the neck produces pressure that may pop out their eyeballs Photos on next slide 

89. Reclining Restraint Proper techniques for reclining restraint

90. Stretch Restraint With cats and small dogs, grasp your pet by the loose skin at the back of the neck (scruff) with one hand Capture both hind feet with the other hand. Gently stretch out your pet and hold it against a tabletop

91. Hugging Restraint Bring one arm underneath and around your dog’s neck (like a half nelson) to hug him to your chest With the other arm, reach under and around his chest and pull him closer against you. This technique works best for dogs over 20 lbs and is most useful when trying to immobilize the abdomen, chest, legs, and back .

92. Hugging Restraint

93. Kneeling Restraint Pressure around the necks of dogs with prominent eyes (e.g. Pekingese) may pop out their eyeballs. Instead of restraining with a neck grip or by the scruff, put your dog on the floor between your knees facing away from you as you kneel. Put one hand on top of your dog’s head and the other around or beneath his jaws to steady his head while another person treats this area. This method also works for giving pills to cats. gotoaid.com

94. Elizabethan Collars Elizabethan Collars (or E-collars) prevent dogs and cats from reaching injuries with their teeth. They also protect facial sores from pawing or scratching nails. You can get them at pet-supply stores, catalogs, or from a vet. They can also be home-made. thatpetplace.com

95. Making an E-collar 1. Measure the pet’s neck and the distance from his collar to the tip of his nose 2. Mark these measurements on a piece of rigid cardboard or plastic. 3. Make a V-shaped cut from the outer edge to the inner circle. 4. Use a knitting needle or awl to punch holes along both edges of the collar. 5. Lace a shoe string or yarn through the holes to secure the collar around your pet’s neck.

96. E-collars

97. THANKS