Surfactants, emollients and rheological Additivespptx

Surfactants and Emollients

1. Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences R.T.M.N.U Nagpur Presentation on – Surfactants Emollients & Rheological Additives used in Cosmetics Presented by – Nilesh Punjaram Muttalwad M. Pharm 2 nd sem Guided by – Dr. Rita Wadetwar mam

2. Contents of this t emplate Questions 1.Enlist Various Building Blocks for Cosmetic Formulation and Explain in Brief Surfactants? 2.Write a Note on Rheologocal additives and it’s Applications. 3.Write a brief introduction on surfactants . 4.Explain in brief about Emollients and classify it.

3. Contents of this t emplate 1.Surfactants 2.Emollients 3.Rheological Additives 4.References Introduction Classification Applications Introduction Classification Applications Introduction Classification Applications Contents

4. Contents of this t emplate A Surface active agent (surfactants) is a substance which lowers the surface tension of the medium in which it is dissolved and /or the interfacial tension with other phases. Surfactants All surface active agents have a structural feature in common: they are all amphipathic molecule: that is, the molecule has two distinct parts-a hydrophobic unit and a hydrophilic unit. A surfactant molecule is composed of a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail.
The head can be an anionic, a cationic, a zwitterion, or a non-ionic group while the tail is a nonpolar hydrocarbon chain.

5. Contents of this t emplate According to the nature of the hydrophilic group surfactants are classified as:

• Anionic

• Cationic

• Non ionic

• Ampholytic CLASSIFICATION OF SURFACTANTS

6. Contents of this t emplate Those surfactants in which surface active ion is negatively charged in solution, are anionic surfactants.
Anionic groups may be directly connected to hydrophobic part or these may be connected through ester, ether, amide, or amidine links. ANIONIC SURFACTANTS Eg; Sodium dodecyl sulphate

7. Contents of this t emplate Surfactants having anionic groups connected directly to the hydrophobic unit. Eg fatty acid soaps, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates,alkyl phosphates.

b. Surfactants having anionic groups connected through ester links
Eg: monoglyceride sulphates, dialkyl sulphosuccinate, polyethylene glycol ester, sulphates isoethionates. c. Surfactants having anionic groups connected through ether links. Eg, alkyl ether sulphates,phenol ether sulphates, alkyl ether carboxylates

8. Contents of this t emplate d. Surfactants having anionic groups connected through amide links. Eg: alkalonamide sulphates, taurines, sarcosinates. e. Surfactants having anionic groups connected through amidine links.

Eg:imidazole sulphates.

9. Contents of this t emplate Those surfactants in which surface active ion is positively charged in solution, are cationic surfactants. CATIONIC SURFACTANTS

10. Contents of this t emplate Quarternary ammonium salts in which nitrogen is directly attached to the hydrophobic part. Eg: alkyl trimethhyl ammonium salts, dialkyl dimethyl ammonium salts, alkyl dimethhyl benzyl ammonium salts, ethoxylated alkyl-dimethhyl ammonium salts.
Surfactants in which the cationic group separated from the hydrophobic group. Fg: Quarternized amides of ethylene diamine, Quartemized amides of polyethylenediamine. Nitrogenous Surfactants

11. Contents of this t emplate Non nitrogenous surfactants Eg; sulphonium salts, phosphonium salts. Surfactants in which cationic group is located in a heterocyclic ring. e.g; Alkyl pyridinium salts, alkyl morpholinium salts, alkyl imidazolinium salts. Dicationic surfactant. e.g; Quarternised diamine salts.

12. Contents of this t emplate Hydrophilic part of the molecule is made up of multiple uncharged polar groups. Eg: Hydroxyl groups or ether linkages in ethylene oxide chains NON IONIC SURFACTANTS

13. Contents of this t emplate Three types

1. Alkanolamines. Eg.fatty acid alkanolamine, fatty acid dialkanolamine. 2. Polyethylene glycol derivatives.
Eg. Alkyl polyglycol ether, alkyl aryl polyglycol ethers, thioethers 3.Polyethylenimine derivatives.
Eg. Alkylpolyethyleneimine, polyethyleneimine amides

14. Contents of this t emplate AMPHOTERIC (ZWITTER-IONIC) SURFACTANTS Able to form a surface active ion with both positive and negative char Three types

1.Alkylamino acids. E.g. Alkyl ẞ aminopropionates, betaines. 2. Acylaminoacids. Eg. Acyl ẞ amino propionates, acyl peptides 3. Alkylimidazolines

15. Contents of this t emplate Many cosmetics are emulsions in which surfactants have been used as the emulsifying agents.
Three types of surfactants usually used as emulsifying agents: anionic, cationic and non anionic. APPLICATIONS OF SURFACTANTS 1. EMULSIFICATION PURPOSES: ANIONICS: • Widely used for emulsification purposes especially in the formulation of hand creams and lotions.
E.g Fatty acid soaps, polyol fatty acid monoesters containing fatty acid soaps, sulphuric esters etc.

16. Contents of this t emplate i. These are substantive to proteins at acid pH

ii. These tend to produce emulsions with acid pH

iii. They have germicidal properties if not inactivated by anionics or incompatible materials. CATIONICS: Not widely used as emulsifying agents in cosmetics.
Following properties should be kept in mind:

17. Contents of this t emplate NON-IONIC SURFACTANTS: E.g: Polyoxyethylene fatty alcohol ethers (eg, polyoxyethylene lauryl alcohol). Polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters (eg: polyoxyethylene stearate)

polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters (eg: polyoxy ethylene sorbitan monostearate)

Sorbitan fatty acid ester (eg: sorbitol monostearate) Compatible with large number of cosmetics because they do not ionise in solutions. Therefore they are compatible with both anionic and cationic surfactants.

18. Contents of this t emplate They also used in cosmetics for the emulsifying properties such as lanoline, cholesterol, saponins. Today they largely replaced by synthetic detergents. However lecithin which is a phospholipid is still being used today in the preparation of milky lotion and creams Lecithin is obtained from egg yolk and soya bean.. NATURAL SURFACTANTS 2.FOAMING AND CLEANSING PURPOSE For this purpose, surfactants are used mostly in shampoo, in which the principleingredients are surfactants. For foaming and cleansing, anionics, cationic, non-ionicand amphoteric surfactants are used.

19. Contents of this t emplate ANIONIC SURFACTANTS This is the most widely used type of surfactant for laundering, dishwashing liquids and shampoos because of its excellent cleaning properties. I n shampoo the anions such as alkaline sulphonates and alkaline benzenesulphonate and fatty acids soaps are not used. a- olefinic sulphonates, alkyl sulphate are very popularly used in shampoo fordetergency and foaming properties. S ulphosuccinates are known for the mild effects and less irritant to eyes and used in mild shampoo as auxillary surfactants. Methyl taurides, and acyl peptides may be used.

20. Contents of this t emplate CATIONIC SURFACTANTS They are not good foaming agents or detergents. They are also irritant to eyes and interact with protiens, thus they cause dirt re-deposition onhair shaft. They can be used as additives for germicidal properties upto 5% in shampoo. Eg-alkyltrimethyl ammoniums, sterile dimethyl benzyl ammonium, cetyl pyridinium salts.

21. Contents of this t emplate NON-IONIC SURFACTANTS: They are good detergents and can be used as principle surfactants.
Polyglyceryl ethers have good detergency and foaming properties.
They are mild in nature and do not irritate the eye mucosa.
Other non-ionics such as fatty acid alkanolamide are not used as detergents but produce conditioning effects.
Few other non-ionics used for other purposes for increasing the stability and viscosity.
Eg:- pluronics, sorbitol esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols.

22. Contents of this t emplate Mainly used in mild shampoos such as baby shampoo because of their mildness to skin and eye.
They are known to have conditioning properties.
Eg:- n-alkyl amino acids and betaines and imidazoline derivatives.
N-alkyl amino acids are best foaming agents used in mildly alkaline pH. Betaines are cationic in acidic pH and anionic in alkaline pH.
They are stable over a wide range of pH(2-12). They are also compatible with cationics, anionics, and non-ionics. AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTS

23. Contents of this t emplate All surfactants have good wetting properties.
For the purpose of enhancing wetting, the short chain alkyl aryl sulphonates, alkyl ethyl sulphates are often used for improving wetting properties. 3.WETTING AGENTS: 4. SOLUBILISATION: Surfactants when used above CMC are known to have solubilising properties.
For incorporating perfumes in cosmetics or certain additives which requires solubilisation.

24. Contents of this t emplate COMMONLY USED SURFACTANTS: Sodium lauryl sulphate (can be derived from coconuts) Produces High Foam; easy to thicken. Strong Anionic Surfactant; can cause irritation. Decyl Glucoside (derived from sugar) Anionic Surfactant; gentle on the skin. Glyceryl Cocoate (derived from vegetables) Disodium lauryl sulphosuccinate (derived from coconuts), Foaming agent, Mild Decyl Polyglucoside (vegetable derived, used in baby shampoos for its gentleness) Cetearyl alcohol (derived from coconut oil) Amphoteric Surfactant

25. Contents of this t emplate EMOLLIENTS Emollients are medical moisturising treatments applied directly to the skin to soothe and hydrate it . They cover the skin with a protective film to trap in moisture.

26. Contents of this t emplate Emollients are often used to help manage dry, itchy or scaly skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and ichthyosis. They help to repair the damaged natural barrier of the skin, also protect from irritation and infections and can reduce redness, swelling and itching. They help prevent patches of inflammation and flare-ups of these conditions.

27. Contents of this t emplate Lanolin and its derivatives Lanolin is a nautral wax It helps to maintain the epidermis in a normal condition Its hydrophobic and adhesive character makes it an excellent occlusive agent and a good emollient AGENTS USED IN EMOLLIENTS Lanolin derivatives are Lanolin alcohol Modified lanolins : Liquid lanolins
Esterified lanolin alcohol Acetylated lanolin alcohol. Polyoxyalkylene lanolins

28. Contents of this t emplate STEROLS Cholesterol is the only sterol used It lessen the irritating and defatting action of emollient.

It helps emollient to penetrate into the epidermis and impart slepyness to skin PHOSPHOLIPIDS They are complex fat soluble substance They act as an emollient

Example: Lecitin, excellent emulsifier, emollient as well as surfactant

29. Contents of this t emplate FATTY ACID Stearic acid is the only one of choice Its helps to retain consistency of the end product FATTY ACID ESTERS They leave a thin oily film on the skin which is greasy because of their oily and low viscocity characteristic. Example: Butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, Isopropyl palmitate, polyesters (like glyceryl
monostearate) FATTY ALCOHOLS They produce occlusive films that help to induce hydration of skin
Example: Cetyl and stearyl alcohols

30. Contents of this t emplate Types of Emollients Spray Bath Additives Soap Substitutes Ointments Lotions Creams

31. Contents of this t emplate CREAMS These are not particularly greasy.
They are absorbed quite quickly so do not stain clothes.
They are good for daytime use. Examples:

Diprobase cream Hydromol cream
Oilatum cream Aveeno cream Cetraben E45 cream Doublebase Containing antibacterial: Dermol 500
Containing urea: Calmurid Hydromol extra
Examples for shower(cleansing): Dermol shower, E45 Shower

32. Contents of this t emplate OINTMENTS These are greasy and are particularly useful for very dry or itchy skin because they hydrate the skin better than creams. They do take longer to be absorbed and may make your clothes greasy . .Some people prefer to use these at night. Examples:50% white soft paraffin in liquid paraffin (50/50 mix) Epaderm Hydromol Emulsifying ointment WARNING: Skin products containing white soft paraffin and emulsifying ointment are easily ignited with a naked flame or a cigarette.

33. Contents of this t emplate LOTIONS They are good for hairy or damaged areas of skin (such as weeping eczema)

They are thin and can spread easily

But they’re not very moisturising

Example: Dermocalm lotion

34. Contents of this t emplate Soap Substitutes Soap dries the skin and can make it itchy. Use soap substitutes for all washing. These cleanse the skin effectively BUT do not lather like soap.
Many creams and ointments may be used as soap substitutes. Examples:
Cetraben
Wash E45
Diprobase cream
Emulsifying ointment
Hydromol ointment Epaderm. Dermol 500 (which contains antibacterial)

35. Contents of this t emplate SPRAY They are good for hard-to-reach area.
They are also used for sore or infected skin that shouldn’t be touched.
They are quickly absorbed. A spray formulation easier to apply. Example: Emollin spray

36. Contents of this t emplate Bubbles (like soap) can irritate and dry skin. Emollient bath additives should be added to the bath water to help to moisturise your skin and leave a fine film on skin after bathing.
TAKE CARE as they will make the bath slippery. BATH ADDITIVES Examples: Oilatum Balneum Diprobath Bath E45 Hydromol
Aveeno bath oil With antimicrobials: Oilatum plus (with anti microbial) Dermol 600

37. Contents of this t emplate RHEOLOGICAL ADDITIVES Rheology is the science of flow.
Every time a lotion is poured, a cream squeezed from a tube or a lipstick applied, rheology is involved.
Even when products are at rest, it plays an important part in controlling stability of suspension.
Understanding a formulation’s rheological needs enables, to create the best possible products

38. Contents of this t emplate The rheology of a system is described in terms of its viscosity.
Viscosity is the resistance to flow and defined as the force applied by the resulting rate.
Shear stress is the force per unit area applied and shear rate is the resulting velocity gradient.

39. Contents of this t emplate A material which maintains a constant viscosity, regardless of shear rate, has Newtonian flow (Fig.2). Dilatant flow (Fig.2) is a form where viscosity increases with shear, sometimes encountered in highly pigmented/filled systems.

40. Contents of this t emplate The rate of recovery of a system when stress is removed is also very important. When a shear thinning system shows delayed viscosity recovery, it is described as thixotropic (Fig.3).

41. Contents of this t emplate Pseudoplastic flow (Fig. 4), also known as shear thinning behaviour, and typical of many commercial systems, is when viscosity decreases with increasing shear rate.

42. Contents of this t emplate Rheological Additives for Cosmetics Rheological additives can be broadly divided between aqueous-phase thickeners and non-aqueous-phase thickeners.
But it is important to remember the advantages of oil phase viscosity modification that can greatly improve emulsion based products.
ELEMENTIS Specialties additives for cosmetics are based on naturally occurring materials: highly refined and beneficiated hectorite clay or castor oil derivative

43. Contents of this t emplate 1. Aqueous-phase thickeners The Rheoluxe family of rheology modifiers are non-ionic polymeric thickeners designed specifically for the personal care market.
Rheoluxe consists of urethane based and Polyether Polyol based associative thickeners with superior performance in difficult systems such as those containing high salt levels or with extremes in pH.
Due to its structure, Rheoluxe is soluble in water, but associates with lipophilic materials to build viscosity. Rheoluxe Associative Thickeners

44. Contents of this t emplate The Rheoluxe range of products provides viscosity control in all types of emulsion systems, creating an exceptional sensory profile.
Supplied as easy to handle solutions, Rheoluxe can be added at any point in the production process. Rheoluxe is heat stable, although cold process systems are possible. Use – To Stabilize Emulsion

45. Contents of this t emplate Associative thickeners – mechanism of action Associative thickeners increase the viscosity of aqueous systems through a system of molecular associations and interactions.
The thickeners consist of water soluble polymeric chains modified with hydrophobic caps.
The hydrophobic caps of the polymer associate, that is build a structured network with other hydrophobes in the formula.
This results in micelle type structures that form a network resulting in significant viscosity build.

46. Contents of this t emplate HECTORITE Hectorite is a unique swelling clay offering several advantages. Hectorite’s special properties, compared with bentonite, are: lower iron content
lighter colour
higher swelling capacity
greater gel strength
No crystalline silica Due to its small size, platelet shape and large surface area, hectorite is able to form strong, stable viscous gels. Use – Stabilizes gel and emulsions

47. Contents of this t emplate 2.Non-Aqueous-Phase Additives Surfactants can influence hydrophilic clays.
The rheological behaviour of hydrophilic clays.. Non-ionic surfactants, if they are highly ethoxylated, can adsorb onto the clay surface. This rarely causes problems either in flow control or activity of the formulation. Anionic surfactants can act as dispersing agents and weaken the gel structure. Alternatives that eliminate or minimise any problems can normally be found. Cationic surfactants interact strongly and should be avoided.

48. Contents of this t emplate Organic and silicone-based liquids used in oil and wax-based cosmetics, and as the non-aqueous-phase in emulsions, benefit greatly from ELEMENTIS Specialties rheological additives.
Outstanding rheological properties are developed using BENTONE organoclay rheological additives in their powder form or, even better, with BENTONE GEL additives, their predispersed forms.

49. Contents of this t emplate thermostable viscosity control
thixotropic flow suspension control of pigments and actives emulsion stabilisation silky skin feel ADVANTAGES

50. Contents of this t emplate Hectorite is now reacted with special vegetable quaternary ammonium salts to produce organoclays able to thicken and gel organic liquids.
The correct choice of BENTONE additive is determined largely by the polarity of the system to be thickened. BENTONE organophilic Clays BENTONE organoclays form thixotropic gels by developing hydrogen bond bridges between the edges of adjacent platelets as shown in Figure

51. Contents of this t emplate BENTONE GEL BENTONE GEL additives are optimally dispersed and activated predispersions of ELEMENTIS Specialties organoclays. Benefits include: optimally dispersed . high-shear dispersion not necessary. no polar activation required . easy to handle and use . can be added at any appropriate and convenient stage in manufacture. A wide range of gels made from various cosmetics oils, esters and solvents are available.

52. Contents of this t emplate T he use of a BENTONE GEL enables to achieve the maximum efficiency from the organoclay without the need for careful shearing and activation. On the production scale, time is saved and the highest degree of reproducibility attained, leading to potential cost savings.

53. Contents of this t emplate APPLICATIONS Mascara Eye shadow KEY PROPERTIES Non-animal origin Rheological control Predictable, reproducible and stable viscosity control Shear-thinning viscosity Excellent suspension of pigments and actives Controlled alignment of special-effect pigments Thermostable viscosity raises apparent melting point and ensures cost-efficient use of UV filters Emulsion stabilization [w/o and o/w ]

54. Contents of this t emplate Thixcin R Rheological Additive For the highest degree of thixotropy in aliphatic liquids, Thixcin R additive is the product to use.
In addition to its effective rheological properties, it gives water repellence, stabilises emulsions and acts as a stiffening agent in lipsticks and ointments.
It can also be used as a dry binder in pressed powder systems.
It is a castor oil derivative.
It requires temperature-controlled activation within the range 55-60°C (130-140°F) and high-shear mixing to develop its full structure.

55. Contents of this t emplate maintain homogeneity in molten and setting stages
gain improved pay-out
increase high-temperature integrity.
eliminate oil migration. reduce “creasing” around lips and eyes. APPLICATION Stick products (lipstick and antiperspirant) Mascara improve film-build
increase water-resistance
eliminate oil migration

56. Contents of this t emplate Eliminate ultrafine Tio2 skin-whitening problems
Enhance sun protection factor (SPF). Optimise use of sunscreen actives.
Reduce separation and settlement. Emulsions Elivate drop-point temperature of water-in-oil creams.
Eliminate syneresis. Improve emulsion stability.
Enable cold-process emulsification. Create novel viscosity effects UV Sunscreen

57. Contents of this t emplate U niform distribution of active ingredients. Sof t and dry skin feel . Sig nificant less whitening. Antiperspirants aerosols

58. Contents of this t emplate References Sharma PP.Cosmetics- Formulation, manufacturing and quality control.5 th ed.2014, P:94-103)
Harry’s cosmeticology p.633-640. Images and Definitions from Wikipedia. Refered Slideshare Official website of Elementis.

59. Contents of this t emplate