Textile testing

[email protected]

28. Correct invoice weight

100 + R, + À
100

40. M) for Some Roves a

Combed Counts

41. function of twist is to bind the fibers together and helps to keep them in their
tive positions. It thus erence tothe yam.
th and in the first instance a yam must
have sufficient tensile strength to withstand the stresses. of preparation and fabri
manufactur
The main function of twist i to give coherence to the yar, In order to develop strength in a
twisted strand of discontinuous fibres and so resist breakage, the individual fibres must grip
ach other when the strand is stressed. This cohesion arises mainly from the twist, which
presses the fibres together as the stretching force is applied and so developing friction
between adjacent Fibre
Twist is also used to bring about 1 that are prominently visible when the yarn is
converted to fabric. This is achieved primarily by having à combination of yarns with

different wit levels and twist directions in the fabric.

“Twist & Yarn Strength:

The strength of a yarn twisted from staple fibers incre wist but up to
the certain limit beyond that limit yam stars loses strength. In the lo on of the curve
Fig) this strength will be due solely 1 sliding friction, ie. under tensile I he fibers slid
ve friction arises only in the middle-to-upper regions of the curve, This is caused by
sion, and thus high pressure, and finally becomes so considerable that fewer and
fewer fiber side past each other and more and more are broken,

This continues up to certain Maximum, ie. to the optimal exploitation ofthe strength of

the individual C) - is dependent upon the raw material. Normally, yams are twisted 10 lev

below the critical twist region (A — knitting, B ~ warp) only special yarns such as voile (C) and

eröpe (D) are twisted above this region. Selection of a twist level below maximum strength is

appropriate because higher strengths are mostly unnecessary, cause the handle ofthe end product

to become 100 hard, and reduce productivity

42. Fig. Relationship between the number of ums of twist and the strength of a yam: F
Tim, turns of twist per meter in the yarn; PES, polyester fibers; Co, cotton fibers.

75. Long

Long thick| bons

Yarn Short thick faults

type | (Nev) faults

77. Work of ru

78. Inia ods

. 8

Elongation mm

89. Figure 4.25 Lea strength tester

96. Load cat
€ -Moving cross head

Taversable upper ow
Fines lower jw

108. HE

109. an,

=I
\ Rat
peas

114. Estimated n

Up to 5,01 ary 1,000
Between 5,000 and 20,000 Every 2,000

and 40,000 Every 5,000
Above 40,000 Every 10,000

115. Top pie

Sample holder
SSS.

Sample

116. Rating

ight change
Moderate

Points to be taken into considerate

‘No visual change

Slight surface fuzzing

The specimen may exhibit one or both of the

(a) moderate fuzzing

(6) isolated fully formed pills

Distinet fuzzing andlor piling

Dense fuzzing and/or pilling which covers the
pecimen.

118. rats: Crease recovery tester, Scissor, Glass plates, Steel plates, Weight.

Sample: Cotton woven fabric Size: 4.4 X 1 Sem,
Temperature — 25°C and relative humidity — 67% Standard atmosphere
20°C and relative humidity - 65%

119. The specimen is eut by template and carefully ereased by folding in ha

The crease is imparted on fabric by placing it between two glass plates and addin

500gm weight on it

After 1 min the weight is removed and the creased fabric is clamped on the instrument
Then it is allowed 10 recover from the erease. The recovery time may vary 10
particular ereases. Usually iis 1 mi

When crease recovers the dial of the instrument is rotated to keep the free ed
specimen in line with the knife ed

The recovery angle is read from the engraved scal

In this way 10 tests are done in wa nd 10 for weft way

The mean value of recovery angle is taken and thus erease recovery is m

‘Crease recovery is determined depending upon the recovery angle. If the angle is 0° then
recovery is zero and if the angle is 180° then recovery is full. Here the recovery angle for the
sn fabric sample is the middle of the range. So it ist € rcove

sample fabric is average,

Fabric stiffness, Handle & D ¡ding length, flexural rigidity, bending modulus-
Shirley stiffness tester.

costo)
o= mn] 38)

121. Bending modas

122. Paper ring

=

sate

Light source

abolic mirror

124. Table 4.3 Yarn tonsione forthe erimp testo [2]

‘Woollen and worsted 1510 60 x
61 to 200 tox
ton Tex or finer
‘coarser then 7 tox
AN man-made o Au
lement yar

Tension (en)

axwn +4
(0.07 tex) + 12
(02 x ton +
05% tex

125. Movable
clamp

Pointer

Tension
weight

“Tho Shirley rim tote.

131. Shrinkage = nal measurement = al
‘orginal measureme

Steam ia

Specimens on
suppon fame

WIRA steaming eylinder,

abrie inspection methods: The inspection of fabric has two primary Functions; first 10
the products according 10 the different quality based on the demands of the buyer/market or

client and second to provide the information about the quality being produced. During th

inspection the fabric may be found to contain different defects

The defects depending on the magnitude, frequency of occurrence, position, importance, effect
on the purpose, consequence in the further process ete. shall be classified and graded under
arious systems. During the inspection, the occurrences of various defects need to be examined
and graded based on their magnitude and dimension as per the required system, There are two

most common types of systems for grading the defects:

132. 4- Point system

It is an inspection method used for the visual checking of fabric quality: faults are scored with
penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4 according to the size and significance, The 4-point system, also
led the American Apparel Manufacturers’ Association (AAMA) point-grading system for
determining fabric quality, is widely sued by producers of apparel fabrics and by the Department
‘of Defense in the United States and is endorsed by the AAMA as well as the ASQC. Defect can
in either length or width direction, the system remains the same, Only major defects are
considered, No penalty points are assigned to minor defects

In this system, one should inspect at least 10 per cent ofthe total rolls in he shipment and make

sure o select at least one roll of each colour way. Fabric defects are assigned points based on

Total defect points per 100 square yards of fabric ar eptance criteria are

nerally not more than 40 penalty points, Fabric rolls containing more than 40 points are

considered "seconds

The formula to calculate penalty points per 100 square yards is given by:
= (Total points scored in the roll x 3600) / Fabric width in inches x Total yards inspected
shy points for his system;
No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned Tor any single

The fabric is graded regardless of the end-product.
This system makes no provision forthe probability of minor defects.

4 point system is most widely used system in apparel industry as itis easy to teach and

133. ull width 10 points

5 inches to half width
1-5 inches 3 points
upto Linch I point

136. The main features of TQM are:

Customer-oriented: TOM focuses on customer satisfaction throu don of b
quality products and services at lower cost
Employee involvement and empowerment: Teams focus on quality improvement
projects and employees are empowered to serve customers well,

wide: TOM involves division

ous improvement: Quality improvement is a never-ending journey

Strategic focus: Quality is viewed as a strategic, competitive
Process management: TQM adopts the concept of prevention through proc

corporate culture: TOM involves the creation of a work culture that is
conducive to quality improvement
spread nt as to what TOM is and what actions it reg

the Navy in the 1980s include

otal Quality Management (TQM) Tools

Total quality management (TQM) tools help organizations to identify, analyze and as

qualitative and quantitative data that is relevant to their business. These tools can identify
procedures, ideas, statistics, cause and effect concems and other issues relevant to their
ganizations. Each of which can be examined and used to enhance the effectiveness, efficiene
tandardization and overall quality of procedures, products or work environment, in accordance
with 1SO 9000 standards (SQ, 2004), According to Quality America, Ine. the number of TOM

Loos is close 10 100 and come in various forms, such as brainstorming, focus groups, check lists

137. charts and graphs, diagrams and other analysis tools. In a different vein, manuals and standards

are TOM tools as well, a they give direction and best practice guidelines to you and/or your
staff. TQM tools illustrate and aid in the assimilation of complicated information such as:

Identification of your target audience
Assessment of customer needs
Competition analysis
Market analysis
Brainstorming ideas
Productivity changes
Various statistics
Staff duties and work low analysis
Statement of purpose
10, Financial analysis
11. Model creation
12, Business structure
13. Logistic analysis
oes on, though essentially TQM tools can be used in any situation, for any number of
reasons, and can be extremely effective if used propery

TQM Tools
The following are some of the most common TQM tools in use today. Each is used for, and
identifies, specific information in a specific manner. It should be noted that tools should be used
in conjunction with other tools to understand the full scope of the issue being analyzed or
illustrated. Simply using one tool may inhibit your understanding of the data provided, oF may
close you off to further possibilities.
Pie Charts and Bar Graphs: Used to identify and compare data units as they relate 10
‘one issue or the whole, such as budgets, vault space available, extent of Funds, ete
Histograms: To illustrate and examine various data element in order to make decisions
regarding them Effective when comparing statistical, survey, or questionnaire results,
Run Chart: Follows a process over a specific period of time, such as accrual rates, to
ind low points in its run, and ultimately identify trends, shifts and patterns.
Pareto Charts / Analysis Rates issues according to importance and frequency by
specific problems or causes in a manner that facilitates problem
oupings of qualitative data, such as most Frequent complaint, most
‘commonly purchased preservation aid, et. in order to measure which have priority. Can
be scheduled over select periods of time to track changes. They can also be created in
retrospect, as a before and after analysis of a process chan
+ To identify driving and restraining forces occurring in a chosen
process in order to understand why that particular process functions as it does. For

example, identify a forces of catering predominantly to

138. ‘genealogists. To identify restraining forces that need to be eradicated, or driving forces
that need to be improved, in order to Function at a higher level of efficiency
Focus Groups: Useful for marketing or advertising organizations to test products on the
general public, Consist of various people from the general public who use and discuss
your product, providing impartial feedback to help you determine whether your product
‘needs improvement or fit should be introduced onto the market
Brainstorming and Affinity Diagrams: Teams using creativo thinking to identify
various aspects surrounding an issue. An affinity diagram, which can be created us
anything from enabling software to post-it notes organized on a wall, is a tool to organize
brainstorming ideas.
Tree Diagr
To identify the various tasks involved in, and the full scope of, a project.
To identify hierarchies, whether of personnel, business structure, or priorities,
To identify inputs and outputs of a project, procedure, process, ete
Flowcharts and Modeling Diagrams: Assist in the definition and analysis of each step
in a process by illustrating it in a clear and comprehensive manner. Identify areas where
workflow may be blocked, or diverted, and where workflow is fluid.
Identity where steps need to be added or removed 10 improve efficiency and create
standardized workflow
Scatter Diagram: To illustrate and validate hunches. To discover cause and effect
relationships, as well as bonds and correlations, between two variables . To chart the
positive and negative direction of relationships
Relations Diagram: To understand the relationships between various factors, issues,
events, etc, so as to understand their importance inthe overall organizational view
PDCA: The Plan-Do-Check-Act style of management where each projector procedure is

planned according to needs and outcome, itis then tested, examined for efficiency and

effectiveness, and then acted upon if anything in the process needs to be altered.

This isa eyclical style o be iterated until the process is perfected. All ofthese TOM tools
can be easily created and examined by using various types of computer software or by
simply mapping them out on paper. They can also be easily integrated into team
mes nizational newsletters, marketing reports, and for various other data
analysis needs. Proper integration and use of these tools will ultimately assist in
processing data such as identifying collecting policies, enhancing work flow such as
mapping acquisition procedures, ensuring client satisfaction by surveying their needs and
analyzing them accordingly, and creating an overall high level of quality in all arcas of
your organization

141. Six Sigm
Six Sigmas aim is 10 eliminate waste and inefficiency, thereby increasing customer
satisfaction by delivering what the customer is expecting
Six Sigma is a highly disciplined process that helps us focus on developing and
delivering near-perfect products and services.
Six Sigma follows a structured methodology, and has defined roles forthe participants.
Six Sigma is a data driven methodology, and requires accurate data collection for the
processes being analyzed,
Six Sigma is about putting results on Financial Statements
Six Sigma isa business-dri mensional structured approach 1:
Improving Processes
© Lowering Defect

Reducing process variability

Increasing customer satisfaction
Increased profits

The word Sigma is a statistical term that measures how far a given process deviates from

perfection. The central idea behind Six Sigma is that if you can measure how many "defects" you

have in a process, you can systematically figure out how to eliminate them and get as close 10

zero defects” as possible and specifically it means a failure rate of 3.4 paris per million or

99.9997% perfec.

AL its core, Six Sigma revolves around a few key concepts
Attributes most important to the customer.

What your process can dí
ustomer sees and feel,
ns: Ensuring consistent, predictable processes to improve what the
sees and feels,

Design for Six Sigma: Designing o meet customer needs and process capability

‘Our Customers Fee! the Variance, Not the Mean, So Six Sigma focuses fist on reducing process

variation and then on improving the process capability

‘The Benefits of Six Sigma: There are following six major benefits of Six Sigma that atract

‘companies

Six Sigma:
Generates sustained success.
Sets a performance goal for eve
Enhances value to customers

Accelerates the rate of improvement

142. Promotes leaming and cross-pollintion.

Key Elements of Six Segma: There are three key elements of Six Sigma Process Improvement
Customers
Processes
Employees

The Customer: Customers define quality. They expect performance, reliability, competitive
prices, on-time delivery, service, clear and correct transaction processing and more. Today

Delighting a customer is a necessity, Because if we dont do it, someone else will!

The Processes: Defining Processes and defining Metrics and Measures for Processes isthe key
clement of Six Sigma. Quality requires to look at a business from the customers perspective, In
other words, we must look at defined processes from the outside-in, By understanding the
transaction lifeeycle from the customers needs and processes, we can discover what they are
seeing and feeling. This will give a chance to identify week area with in a process and then we
can improve them,

The Employees: The company must involve all employees in Six Sigma Program. Company
must provide opportunities and incentives for employees to focus their talents and ability to

Methodo

+ DMAIC: refers to a data-driven quality strategy for improving processes. This
methodology is used to improve an existing business process.
DMADV: refers to a data-driven quality strategy for designing products & processes,
is used to create new product designs or process designs in such a way
that it results in a more predictable, mature and defeet free performance

va. DFSS is a data-driven
quality strategy for designing design or re-design a product or service from the ground up.
Sometimes a DMAIC project may turn into a DFSS project because the process in question
requires complete redesign to bring about the desired degree of improvement.

DMAIC Methodology: This methodology consists of following five steps.

Analyze -> Improve ->Control
Define the Problem or Project Goals that needs to be addressed

deasure the problem and process from which it was produced,

Analyze: Analyze data & process to determine root causes of defects and opportunities

143. + Improve: Improve the process by finding solutions o fix, diminish, and prevent future
prob

+ Control: Implement, Control, and Sustain the improvements solutions 10 keep the
process on the new course

In the subsequent session we will give complete detail of DMAIC Methodology

DMADV Methodology:This methodology consists of following five steps
Define --> Mi > Analyze --> Design -> Very
Define : Define the Problem or Project Goals that needs 10 be addresse
Measure: Measure and determine customers needs and specifications,
Analyze: Analyze the process for meet the customer n
Design: Design a process that will meet customers needs
Verify: Verify the design performance and ability to meet customer needs,

DESS Methodology: DISS - Design For Six Sigma isa separ 3g discipline related
to Six Sigma quality processes. This is a systematic methodology utilizing tool, training and

measurements to enable us to design products and processes that meet customer expectations and

in be produced at Six Sigma Quality levels. This method in have following five steps

Define > Identify > Design > Optimize -> Verily
Define Identify the Customer and project,
Identify: Define what the customers want, or what they do not want
Design: Design a process that will meet customers needs,
Optimizes Determine process capability & optimize de
Verify: Test, verify, & validate desi