Types of leather

This slide includes different types of leather.

1. Types of leather Department of Leather Engineering, KUET, Khulna-9203.

2. Types of leather Leather are generally classified: According to source According to surface grain According to tanning According to finish

3. According to source Cow hide Goat Skins Sheep Skins Mule Pig Skins Deerskin Bison or Buffalo hide Ostrich leather Kangaroo leather Eel skin Crocodile Horse Snake skin Seal Skin S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ). Shark skin Lizard Walrus Shagreen Yak Whale etc.

4. Cow leather Bovine or Cowhide leather is the most abundant and common leather source. Cowhide offers maximum value for texture, appearance, durability, and comfort. Cowhide is easy to care for, the least expensive due to its availability and is dirt and water resistant. Cowhide is one of the heaviest leathers making it very tough wearing and durable featuring a pebble grain appearance. Although it can be somewhat stiff, cowhide breaks in easily. Cow leather is used for virtually every leather product including outerwear, jackets, casual and biker style coats, gloves, belts, saddles, bags, furniture, straps, shoes, boots, and upholstery. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

5. Cow leather Calfskin is used to produce a high quality, attractive leather with a soft, fine feel. Calfskin has a smooth surface, which is dense, lightweight, and abrasion resistant. Calfskin takes on high luster with use and is used in bookbinding, dresses, shoes, and straps. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

6. Cow leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

7. Goat Skins They have an area of 4 to 8 sq. ft. with a coarse fibrous structure varying between butt and belly. Substance is thick. Vegetable tanned goat skins are used as linings. Goat skin leather is an economical, strong and durable, with a smooth fine grain. Goatskin is slightly softer and tougher than cow leather and is lightweight, comfortable, supple, flexible, and water-resistant. Pigskin is used to manufacture to gloves, casual shoes, coats, vests, bookbinding, wallets, belts, and protective clothing. Kidskin is a very soft leather made from the hide of a young goat. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

8. Goat skin S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

9. Sheep Skins Sheep skins have loose fibrous structure, loose grain surface and light substance with a soft feel. They have an area of 2 to 9 sq.ft and are suede finished. The wool sheep skins can be sheared. Sheep skins are used for linings. Sheep skin leather is extremely soft, comfortable, and pliable. The finely grained leather is thin and supple with a buttery texture. Sheep leather is lightweight, warm and delicate and absorbs water well . S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

10. Sheep skin S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

11. Pig Skins Pig skin is the leather fabric made from a pig or a hog. Pig or hog skin leather is a dense leather similar to cowhide with a soft and supple feel and very good durability. Pigskin is very pliable, comfortable and water resistant with a high lanolin content to keep the glove soft after getting wet. Pigskin is used to manufacture work gloves, shoes, boots, sportswear, handbags, saddle seats, belts and apparel such as, shirts, blazers, and jackets. Despite their nickname, footballs are actually made of cowhide. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

12. Pig Skin S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

13. Deerskin Deerskin   is one of the toughest leathers available due to the thorny nature of the animal’s natural habitats. Deerskin leather’s high tensile strength is abrasion resistant and offers high durability. Deerskin is extremely soft and comfortable with a spongy feel. It is lightweight, water-friendly, and stretchy and fits well. Deerskin is more expensive and used to manufacture gloves, shirts, dresses, hats, slippers, jackets, overcoats, sporting equipment, handbags, wallets, and upholstery. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

14. Deerskin S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

15. Bison or Buffalo hide Buffalo hide is a heavy duty and durable leather and very value priced. This leather is rugged and strong, yet soft and supple with a rubber waxy feel. Buffalo leather features thicker fibers which are more widely spaced and evident hair follicles creating a pebbly appearance. Bison leather is used to make furniture, shoes, belts, bookbinding, rugs, gloves, jackets, and baseball gloves . S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

16. Buffalo leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

17. Ostrich leather Ostrich leather is much rarer, but is one of the finest and most durable leathers. Ostrich leather is luxurious, soft, supple, and thick featuring an exotic goose bump appearance from the large feather quill follicles. Ostrich leather is popular in luxury fashion and is used to make boots, footwear, upholstery, accessories, clothing, luggage, purses, wallets, and briefcases. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

18. Ostrich leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

19. Eel skin Eel skin is a very thin and elegant, which is not very strong. Eel skin leather can be durable but requires maintenance if exposed to elements. Eel skin is soft, shiny, and smooth with horizontal pin-stripe patterns. This leather is actually produced from a slimy eel-like fish called the inshore hagfish, which is caught in the wild. Eel skin becomes softer and suppler with use and is used to make wallets and handbags.  S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

20. Eel leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

21. Crocodile and alligator skin Crocodile and alligator skin  renders a very attractive and fashionable leather. The leather is strong, supple, durable and very expensive. A bony layer within the skin adds a protective shield, while a dimple on each scale makes a very exotic look. Crocodile and alligator leather is used to make luxury goods, handbags, wallets, boots, belts, and briefcases .

22. Crocodile and alligator skin S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

23. Snakeskin Snakeskin  is typically produced from venomous sea snakes which are commercially farmed. The leather is delicate, thin, soft and flexible, while the fine small hexagon scales produce exotic detailed grains. Snake skin leather is used to make boots, wallets, and handbags.

24. Snakeskin

25. Kangaroo leather Kangaroo leather is lightweight, strong and flexible with high abrasion resistance compared to cowhide. Ostrich leather can be cut into very thin layers which remain strong and create lighter weight garments. Ostrich leather is made from free range wild animals and is popular in soccer footwear, as well as, bullwhips and apparel. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

26. Kangaroo leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

27. Stingray or shagreen leather Stingray or shagreen leather  is very tough with a siliceous layer on the surface, which makes it as durable as hard plastic. Stingray leather has a beautiful appearance and wonderful feel, which is very strong. Stingray leather scales even protect from fire damage. The leather is usually dyed black and covered with tiny round bumps dyed white to highlight the decoration. Stingray leather is used for clothing, furniture, wallets, belts, purses, and briefcases.

28. Stingray or shagreen leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

29. Sealskin Sealskin is the skin of a seal which has been hunted. Seal skins have been used by aboriginal people for millennia to make waterproof jackets and boots, and seal fur to make fur coats. Sailors used to have tobacco pouches made from sealskin . Canada, Greenland, Norway, Russia and Namibia all export sealskin. It was traditionally used to make Scottish sporrans. The indigenous Inuit people argue that banning seal products is detrimental to their way of life .  However, there are many objections to the use of seal skin, fur and pelts, and it is illegal to hunt seals in many countries, particularly young seals. The value of global sealskin exports in 2006 was over 16 million Canadian dollars. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

30. Sealskin S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

31. Mule skin Mule skin has a higher density than steer which gives it a very distinct and crisp sound profile.  We have several different types of mule skin which work perfectly for many different types of drums . Mule skin has a very bright tone and sounds controlled and tight. Slaps are amazingly crisp. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

32. Mule skin S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

33. Horse/Equine skin Equine skin conditions are often difficult to diagnose and frustrating to treat, with causes ranging from fungus to allergens to who-knows-what.  The skin is the largest organ of your horse’s body. It provides a protective barrier against the environment, regulates temperature, and gives your horse its sense of touch. Depending on the species and age, the skin may be 12 to 24% of an animal’s body weight. The skin has 3 major layers: the epidermis or outermost layer, the dermis or middle layer, and the subcutis or innermost layer. Other important components include skin appendages (such as hair and hooves), and subcutaneous muscles and fat. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

34. Horse/Equine skin S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

35. Lizard leather Lizard leather scales are remarkably water proof, and provide excellent protection from the elements. Pesky stains shan’t be nearly as much of a threat to lizard skin as to other leathers, although this shouldn’t be your cue to take it for granted. Those scales are rooted in place by a well lubricated membrane beneath them, which they are charged with protecting. Should that membrane dry up, the scales can pop off, which really doesn’t bode well for the aesthetics. Try not to take lizard leather out under excessive weather conditions, such as rain. If it does get wet, just blot up the moisture with a dry, clean cloth or paper towel.  S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

36. Lizard leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

37. Walrus leather Leather produced from any fur bearing swimming mammal such as the Atlantic walrus ( Odobenus rosmarus ), Pacific walrus ( Odobenus abesus ), sea lion ( Zalophus caliifornianus ) or seal ( Callorhinus alascanus ). All are called walrus leather because, once processed, the skins are difficult to distinguish. Walrus hides are thick, tough, and smooth. Due to the scarcity of the animals at the end of the 20th century, most commercial walrus leathers were imitations made from embossed and grained sheepskins, goatskins, or cowhides. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

38. Walrus leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

39. Shark leather Shark leather is world known for its rough, course texture. In the coarser developments of shark skin, it has been used like sandpaper for polishing. However, the finer tanned shark skins are used for shoes, handbags, and other leather items. Highly sought after, these skins are by-products from fishing villages and international cuisine. All of our leather is coming from non-endangered and non-threatened shark species and no CITES is required. Currently, we’re offering black fin species in 1 to 4 oz thickness in a rough or soft-tanned presentation. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

40. Shark leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

41. Human leather Human leather is made from real full thickness human skin.  Just like animal leather products, produced from lesser animals, our raw human skin is transformed into the finest grade human leather by using a traditional tanning process.  However, human leather is the finest grain leather that is obtainable. It is free from defects and has the smallest grain size which makes it the smoothest, softest leather on Earth. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

42. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ). Human leather

43. Tilapia fish leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

44. Chicken leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

45. Some other animal sources used for leather include boar, elk, donkey , ox, whale, and yak . S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ). Whale Donkey Other sources of leather

46. Ox Yak Other sources of leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

47. Elk Other sources of leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ). Boar

48. Full grain Top grain Corrected grain Split Suede Nubuck According to surface grain S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

49. Full-grain  leather refers to hides that have not been sanded, buffed, or snuffed (as opposed to top-grain or corrected leather) to remove imperfections (or natural marks) on the surface of the hide. The grain remains allowing the fiber strength and durability. The grain also has breathability, resulting in less moisture from prolonged contact. Rather than wearing out, it develops a patina during its expected useful lifetime. High quality leather furniture and footwear are often made from full-grain leather. Full-grain leathers are typically available in two finish types: aniline, semi-aniline . Full-grain leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

50. Full-grain leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

51. Top-grain leather Top-grain  leather (the most common type in high-end leather products) is the second-highest quality. It has had the "split" layer separated away, making it thinner and more pliable than full-grain. Its surface has been sanded and a finish coat added, which produces a colder, plastic feel with less breathability, and it does not develop a natural patina. It is typically less expensive and has greater stain resistance than full-grain leather if the finish remains unbroken . S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

52. Top-grain leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

53. Corrected-grain leather Corrected-grain  leather is any leather that has had an artificial grain applied to its surface. The hides used to create corrected leather do not meet the standards for use in creating vegetable-tanned or aniline leather. The imperfections are corrected or sanded off, and an artificial grain embossed into the surface and dressed with stain or dyes. Most corrected-grain leather is used to make pigmented leather as the solid pigment helps hide the corrections or imperfections. Corrected grain leathers can mainly be bought as two finish types: semi-aniline and pigmented. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

54. Corrected-grain leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

55. Split leather Split leather is leather created from the fibrous part of the hide left once the top-grain of the rawhide has been separated from the hide. During the splitting operation, the top-grain and drop split are separated. The drop split can be further split (thickness allowing) into a middle split and a flesh split. In very thick hides, the middle split can be separated into multiple layers until the thickness prevents further splitting. Split leather then has an artificial layer applied to the surface of the split and is embossed with a leather grain (bycast leather). Splits are also used to create suede. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

56. Split leather The strongest suedes are usually made from grain splits (that have the grain completely removed) or from the flesh split that has been shaved to the correct thickness. Suede is "fuzzy" on both sides. Manufacturers use a variety of techniques to make suede from full-grain. A reversed suede is a grained leather that has been designed into the leather article with the grain facing away from the visible surface. It is not considered a true suede. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

57. Split leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

58. Suede leather Suede  is a type of leather with a napped finish, commonly used for jackets, shoes, shirts, purses, furniture and other items. The term comes from the French " gants de Suède ", which literally means "gloves from Sweden ". Suede is made from the underside of the animal skin, which is softer and more pliable than, though not as durable as, the outer "skin" layer. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

59. Suede Mostly used as an insole lining in our men's sandal range. As suede is actually a type of leather it is also very expensive and adds a significant amount to the cost of the shoe. Its benefits are also similar to that of leather but limited to the fact that it is mainly an innersole material. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

60. Suede leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

61. Nubuck leather Nubuck is made of the grain side (topside) of the leather. After tanning and dyeing it is sanded, so that it looks like ultra fine suede . Even though nubuck and suede thus are fundamentally different, they must be treated and cared for the same way . Nubuck often contains excess dye, as tanneries today are not able to rinse after dyeing, to the same extent as previously, because of environmental requirements. This leather has clearly rough, Small, fine shreds is covering the surface. The back side is rougher than the front. Very Soft. Very absorbent. Highly sensitive to light. (Some colors are extremely light sensitive ). S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

62. Nubuck leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

63. Suede vs Nubuck Naturally, the outside of a hide is tougher than the inside of a hide. It has to be in order to protect the animal from damage. Since nubuck is made from the outside of the hide, accordingly it is more rough and tough and long-lasting than suede. Suede is made from the “split” end of the hide and is softer, more porous, and less resistant to scuffs and stains. But boy is it soft! Suede is often used in the lining of gloves and shoes . Keep in mind that although suede and nubuck are made from different parts of an animal, their difference is only skin deep.  S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

64. To make the nubuck , the outer layer of the calfskin is used, then the leather has to be sanded from the outside of the skin. The nubuck is more expensive than suede most of the time. This is because the outer layer of calfskin, is tougher than the inner part used for the suede and therefore logically is stronger and will last longer. However there is a counterpart to the nubuck , because the nubuck is sanded from the outside, there maybe some apparent natural imperfections of the leather. Suede vs Nubuck S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

65. Some might find that the imperfections give character to the nubuck , but for all the others, in order to offer a smooth and clean product, manufacturers often dye and stain the nubuck . In Contrary to the nubuck , the inner layer of the calfskin (or other animal skins) are used to make the Suede. The suede is also sanded from the inner side of the leather allowing a naturally smoother and cleaner product than the nubuck . But as mentioned above this also implies that when compared to nubuck , suede is not as resistant. Suede vs Nubuck S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

66. Many believe that suede will be damaged if wet. Although it is not advised to expose suede to too much water, your suede shoes won’t be ruined if wet. If you can, avoid going out with suede on the rainy days, but if you do, don’t worry your shoes will survive just fine. In fact suede does not require much maintenance, treating your suede shoes with water proofing products and brushing them regularly with a suede brush (the soft bristles, never the wire) to maintain the nap, the actual fibers that gives suede its character, will be enough. Suede vs Nubuck S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

67. Nubuck is actually a type of suede and both are generally made of leather like calfskin, although they may also be made from the hide of a sheep/lamb, cow/calf, goat, or deer.  At first sight, they both look and feel similar but are in fact created and treated differently as seen previously. Both of these leathers are created by sanding process, the nubuck being sanded from the outside and the suede from the inside. Because of this difference, their is wide price range between nubuck and suede, suede being the cheapest. Suede vs Nubuck S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

68. When maintaining your suede or  nubuck , it is important to pick the correct brush for each. Since the  nubuck is a harder material than suede, a nubuck brush used on suede will damage the nap. On the other hand a suede brush used on nubuck will have little to no effect. Many believe that suede shoes are harder to maintain and more precious than their shiny leather counterparts. This could not be further from the truth.  Suede and nubuck actually require less maintenance.  These shoes do not need to be shined and should never be shined, so say goodbye to the weekly shinning chore. Suede vs Nubuck S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

69. Suede vs Nubuck S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

70. According tanning Chrome tanned Vegetable tanned Alum tanned Aldehyde tanned Synthetic tanned Formaldehyde tanned S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ). Brain tanned Oil tanned Rose tanned Fur tanned Raw leather

71. Chrome-tanned leather Chrome-tanned leather , invented in 1858, is tanned using chromium sulfate and other chromium salts. It is more supple and pliable than vegetable-tanned leather and does not discolor or lose shape as drastically in water as vegetable-tanned. It is also known as wet-blue for its color derived from the chromium. More exotic colors are possible when using chrome tanning. The chrome tanning method usually only takes a day to finish, and the ease and agility of this method make it a popular choice. However there are environmental concerns with this tanning method. It is reported that chrome-tanned leather adds up to 80% of the global leather supply. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

72. Chrome-tanned leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

73. Vegetable-tanned leather Vegetable-tanned leather  is tanned using tannins and other ingredients found in different vegetable matter, such as tree bark prepared in  bark mills, wood, leaves, fruits, and roots. It is supple and brown in color, with the exact shade depending on the mix of chemicals and the color of the skin. It is the only form of leather suitable for use in leather carving or stamping. Vegetable-tanned leather is not stable in water; it tends to discolor, so if left to soak and then dried it shrinks and becomes harder. This is a feature of oak bark tanned leather that is exploited in traditional shoemaking. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

74. In hot water, it shrinks drastically and partly congeals—becoming rigid, and eventually brittle. Boiled leather is an example of this, where the leather has been hardened by being immersed in hot water, or in boiled wax or similar substances. Historically, it was occasionally used as armour after hardening, and it has also been used for book binding. Vegetable-tanned leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

75. Vegetable-tanned leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

76. Aldehyde-tanned leather tanned leather is tanned using   glutaraldehyde oroxazolidine compounds. This is the leather that most tanners refer to as wet-white leather due to its pale cream or white color. It is the main type of "chrome-free" leather, often seen in shoes for infants and automobiles. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

77. Aldehyde-tanned leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

78. Formaldehyde   leather Formaldehyde  tanning (being phased out due to danger to workers and sensitivity of many people to formaldehyde) is another aldehyde tanning method. Brain-tanned leathers fall into this category, and are exceptionally water absorbent. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

79. Brain tanned  leather Brain tanned  leathers are made by a labor-intensive process that uses emulsified oils, often those of animal brains such as deer, cattle, and buffaloes. They are known for their exceptional softness and washability . S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

80. Brain tanned  leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

81. Oil tanned leather This leather is water, stain and perspiration resistant, and has a more natural look and feel because less finishing materials have been applied, allowing its natural beauty to shine through. Oil-tanned leather is exceptionally durable and has been used to build countless work boots throughout Red Wing’s 110+ year history . Oil tanned leather is unique because it has special oils & waxes applied during the tanning process to give the leather a very soft and supple feel that is resistant to water and other elements. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

82. The leather has a wonderful full bodied hand that is the perfect combination of softness and rugged durability for bags, boots, chaps, and more! Characteristics:  Very smooth top grain leather, oiled feel medium-firm temper. Oil tanned leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

83. Oil tanned leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

84. Rose-tanned leather Rose-tanned leather  is a variation of vegetable oil tanning and brain tanning, where pure rose otto  replaces the vegetable oil and emulsified oils. Rose-tanned leather tanned leaves a powerful rose fragrance even years from when it is manufactured. It has been called the most valuable leather on earth, but this is mostly due to the high cost of rose otto and its labor-intensive tanning process. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

85. Rose-tanned leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

86. Synthetic-tanned leather Synthetic-tanned leather  is tanned using aromatic polymers such as the  Novolac  or Neradol types ( syntans , contraction for synthetic tannins). This leather is white in color and was invented when vegetable tannins were in short supply during the Second World War. Melamine and other amino-functional resins fall into this category, as well, and they provide the filling that modern leathers often require. Urea-formaldehyde resins were also used in this tanning method before people realized the hazards that formaldehyde presents to tanners and consumers. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

87. Alum-tanned leather Alum-tanned leather  is transformed using aluminium salts mixed with a variety of binders and protein sources, such as flour and egg yolk. Alum-tanned leather is technically not tanned, as tannic acid is not used, and the resulting material reverts to rawhide if soaked in water long enough to remove the alum salts . S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

88. Alum-tanned leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

89. Fur tanned leather Simply omit the dehairing process and move to the next step. The tanning process breaks down the glycerin and loosens the fibers of the skin. The agent used in this method is found in the brain of the animal that provided the hide/fur. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

90. Fur tanned leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

91. Raw leather Raw leather  is made by scraping the skin thin, soaking it in lime, and then stretching it while it dries. Like alum-tanning, rawhide is not technically "leather ",  but is usually lumped in with the other forms .  Rawhide is stiffer and more brittle than other forms of leather; it is primarily found in uses such as drum heads and parchment where it does not need to flex significantly; it is also cut up into cords for use in lacing or stitching and for making many varieties of dog chews . S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

92. Raw leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

93. According to surface finish Aniline Semi aniline Pu coated Pigmented Patent S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

94. Aniline leather Aniline leather (pure aniline) is dyed with aniline dye. This type of dye is transparent (translucent) like wood stain. You can therefore see the structure of the skin where the animal has had wrinkles and creases. Insect bites, boils, cuts and wounds can also be seen quite clearly, as you can see the knots and veins in a piece of stained wood . S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

95. For pure aniline is used only the very best hides, those who have the fewest or least severe blemishes, i.e . that only a small proportion of the total production of leather skin can be used for aniline leather. Pure aniline has basically no surface protection, either in the form of finish coating or topcoat / finishes, and you will with a magnifier be able to clearly see the hair follicles. Aniline leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

96. One sees that they are fully open and not filled or half-filled. However, aniline leather is often factory treated with special wax to give it some protection and a comfortable feel to the touch. Characteristics : The leather structures and blemishes can be seen quite clearly. Hair follicles are fully open. Very absorbent. Very soft. Very sensitive to light. Aniline leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

97. Aniline leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

98. Semi-aniline Semi-aniline is aniline leather with one or more types of surface protection, which makes the leather more resistant to moisture, dirt and stains than pure aniline leather. Some qualities have a slight pigmentation (color) on the surface before they are applied surface protection. This pigmentation are often made slightly iridescent to resemble the structure of aniline leather . S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

99. The surface protection can be from almost nothing to quite a lot. However, one must assume that manufacturers are trying to get as thin and soft a surface as possible to come closer to the comfort of the pure aniline leather. There are and continues to be developed so many new types of leather and combinations that they are impossible to classify further. Characteristics : The leather structure can be seen or sensed. You sense a form of surface protection. With a magnifying glass the hair follicles are clearly seen with more or less filling. Can be slightly water-resistant. Quite soft to relatively soft. Different, but overall high sensitivity to light. Semi-aniline S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

100. Semi-aniline S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

101. Pu coated finish The material is coated by applying a surface layer of a chemical such as polyurethane to the grain side of the leather. The advantages of coated leather are that it is much cheaper than genuine leather and has a consistent surface finish. However, coated leather doesn't look or feel like genuine leather and is nonporous, meaning the material doesn't breathe. Coated leather is much stiffer and less flexible than genuine leather and is much more likely to crack in hot and dry conditions. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

102. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ). Pu coated finish

103. Pigmented Leather Pigmented leather needs one or more topical coatings for two reasons: to improve the durability and to make the colour more even. The outside face of the hide is coated with a pigmented resin, and then a subsequent clear-coating(for durability). These resins create a film that bonds to the surface of the leather. It's primary goal is to protect the leather, providing wear, stain, and fade resistance. And this leather is called ' Pigmented Leather'  or  'Finished Leather' . S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

104. Characteristics: The leather structures and blemishes are not seen. The leather has a thick surface protection in the form of solid-color and finishing agent. Hair follicles is seen or sensed with a magnifying glass, but has a distinctfilling  (they do not have to be completely filled). Good water resistance. Can be relatively soft, but not to the same extent as aniline. Most qualities have good light fastness,  but the light fastness also depends on the individual color. Pigmented Leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

105. Pigmented Leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

106. Patent leather   Patent leather  is a type of coated leather that has a very glossy, shiny finish . The coating process was introduced to the United States and improved by inventor Seth Boyden of Newark, New Jersey in 1818, with commercial manufacture beginning September 20, 1819. Boyden's process, which he did not patent ,  used a linseed oil–based lacquer coating. Modern patent leather usually has a plastic coating. The finish of patent leather shoes is very robust and, generally, does not require much cleaning. However, after time, the gloss of one’s shiny patent leather shoes can begin to fade. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

107. Patent leather   S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

108. Some other types of leather Kid leather Napa leather Chamois leather Glazed Embossed S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ). Butt leather Bonded leather Bycast leather Russia leather

109. Kidskin/kid leather Kidskin  or  kid leather  is a type of soft, thin leather that is traditionally used for gloves (hence the phrase 'kid gloves,' used since at least 1888 as a metaphor for careful handling ).  It is widely used for other fashion purposes such as footwear and clothing. Kidskin is traditionally made from  goatskin - more specifically, the skin of young goats (or 'kids'), although equivalent leathers such as  lambskin and chicken skin (actually a form of calfskin) give the same effect . S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

110. Kidskin/kid leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

111. Napa leather Napa leather  is a leather, typically dyed, made from  kid, cow, calf,   lamb or other skin by tanning. It is noted for its soft temper. It is a generic term in the leather field and has no distinct test for characterization. Because of this ambiguity, the term is often used in advertising  to imply that a leather has a soft hand. Among other uses, Napa leather is often used in leather products such as furniture, clothing, handbags, and shoes. As the term is used today, Napa Leather may be either natural grain, or more likely, corrected grain. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

112. Napa leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

113. Chamois leather Chamois leather  also falls into the category of aldehyde tanning, and like brain tanning, produces a porous and highly water-absorbent leather. Chamois leather is made using marine oils (traditionally cod oil) that oxidize easily to produce the aldehydes that tan the leather to color it. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

114. Chamois leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

115. Embossed leather Embossed leather gives a creative & decorative look to leather by stamping a pattern onto the leather.  S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

116. Glazed leather Glazed leather  is simply  leather  that has been burnished or polished to make it appear shiny. After burnishing, the leather's  surface appears to have a glossy finish. Sometimes a soluble dye is added to create an aniline  glazed  finish . Heat caused by friction -- rubbing -- is what creates the glaze. After the burnishing compound on the leather has dried, leather manufacturers shine up the surface of leather using a glazing jack, glazing machine or leather polisher that has a wood or glass cylinder on it. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

117. The arm moves back and forth while the leather is sandwiched between the roller and a belted material underneath. Controls can adjust the pressure of the roller as needed. As the wood or glass cylinder compresses and rolls against the surface of leather, it creates a glazed finish. You can also do this by hand on your leather-crafted items. Glazed leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

118. Glazed leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

119. Butt leather Butt leather is vegetable tanned  leather. utt leather is the leather type most commonly used for equipment such as saddles, harnesses, bags, cases and the like. It can be tanned with very different tannins. Both bark , seeds, leaves and roots are used from various plants and trees, for example. oaks. Butt leather usually have no real surface protection, and is therefore extremely susceptible to spills and sticky fingers. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

120. Butt leather is expensive to manufacture; the tannins are expensive and the process is slow. Butt leather can be pressed into shape. When it is wet, one can easily press it in to shapes of, for example,  knife sheaths , revolver casings etc. One can also stamp characters and letters in the leather, while it is wet. Butt leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

121. Characteristics: The structures and blemishes of the leather are clearly visible. The surface  seems natural/untreated . Hair follicles are clearly visible and open. Strongly absorbent. The color whitish/ yellowish can be sensed even when the leather is dyed with other colors. The thickness of this leather can far exceed the thickness of chromium tanned leather (common furniture leather).Somewhat sensitive to light but slightly less sensitive than aniline. Butt leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

122. Butt leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

123. Bycast/ Bicast leather Bycast leather  is a split leather with a layer of polyurethane laminated to the surface and then embossed. Bycast was originally made for the shoe industry, and later adopted by the furniture industry. The original formula created by Bayer was strong but expensive. The result is a material that is slightly stiffer but cheaper than top-grain leather but has a much more consistent texture. Because its surface is completely covered in plastic, is easier to clean and maintain, but is not easily repaired .  When used for footwear, it cannot be considered equal to conventional leather as it lacks the strength, breatheability , and durability of the natural product. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

124. Bicast leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

125. Bonded leather Bonded leather , also called  reconstituted leather  or  blended leather , is a term used for a manufactured upholstery material which contains animal hide. It is made as a layered structure of a fiber or paper backer, a pulp made from shredded leather, and a polyurethane coating which is embossed with a leather-like texture . Bonded leather is made by shredding leather scraps and leather fiber, then mixing it with bonding materials. The mixture is next extruded onto a fiber cloth, or paper backing, and the surface is usually embossed with a leather-like texture or grain. S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

126. Color and patterning, if any, are a surface treatment that does not penetrate like a dyeing process would. The natural leather fiber content of bonded leather varies. The manufacturing process is somewhat similar to the production of paper . Applications: Bonded leather can be found in furniture, bookbinding, and various fashion accessories. Products that are commonly constructed with different varieties of bonded leather include book covers, cases and covers for personal electronics, shoe components, textile and accessory linings, portfolios and briefcases, handbags, belts, chairs, and sofas. Bonded leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

127. A more fragile paper-backed bonded leather is typically used to cover books such as diaries and Bibles, and various types of desk accessories. These bonded leathers might contain a smaller proportion of leather than those used in the furniture industry, and have some leather exposed in the product's surface, producing the characteristic odor associated with leather. Bonded leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

128. Bonded leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

129. Russia leather Russia leather  is a particular form of bark-tanned cow leather. It is distinguished by a later processing step, after tanning, where birch oil is worked into the rear face of the leather. This gives a leather that is particularly hard-wearing, flexible and resistant to water .  The oil impregnation also deterred insect attack . The high quality of this leather, its usefulness for a range of purposes, and its manufacture being difficult to replicate elsewhere, led to it being a major export good from Russia in the 17th and 18th centuries. It was an important item of trade for the Muscovy Company . S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

130. Russia leather S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

131. To get more video on Footwear Design and Development visit and subscribe YouTube Channel: https ://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2B6ePUTufmASxL9lbf-0Zg or https:// www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtkxsvTf9L6G2aZV2-HGCfcjPCplLeOqL https://www.facebook.com/FootwearDesignandDevelopment/ To get slide visit https:// www.slideshare.net S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET ).

132. Presented by: S. M. Murshidur Rahman Department of Leather Engineering, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET), Khulna-9203, Bangladesh. Email: [email protected] https ://www.facebook.com/murshidur.rahman.5203 https:// www.linkedin.com/in/murshidur-rahman-206850124 https://twitter.com/Murshidur6

133. Thank You