weaver's service centre, working of loom

internship at WSC

1. Industrial Attachment P resented to : Dr . Sangeeta Deo Dr.S.R.Sarkar Presented by : Neha khatoon (2006101015 8th sem ; (2020-24) Under the dept. of textile and apparel design Course no. HIA- 402 Time duration of training : 06/03/2024 – 06/05/2024 @ weaver service centre varanasi

2. A bout weaver service centre Weaver’s service centre is one of the top government organizations in varanasi , Bhagalpur lucknow Nagpur etc, WSC is a leading manufacture , supplier of hand crafted textiles shirts shawls fabric. Objectives Development of more marketable products/samples in the field of weaving, designing and processing. Improvement in weaving and processing techniques. Skill up gradation by way of imparting training on improved techniques in weaving, designing processing, cooperative management and workshops on value addition, both in the Centre and in the field

3. Arms For Service Of WSC : D esign section W eaving section Dying and printing section

4. Design

5. Introduction of design Design is continuous and knowledgeable manipulation of the art elements to provide an expressive statement .Textile designing is an approach of creating designs on fabrics. Textile design is pattern, figure or motif that is repeated at regular intervals, and fabric is referred as patterned fabric in terms of structural and decorative design. To plan and fashion the form and structure of an object, work of art, decorative scheme etc. Design is what links creatively and innovation. It shapes ideas to become practical and attractive propositions for users and customers.

6. Classification of Design

7. Classification of applied or decorative design Realistic design Abstract design Geometric design Stylized design

8. Elements of Design The element of design are the things that artist and designers work with to create a design or composition. The elements are components or parts which can be isolated and defined in any visual design or work of art They are the structure of work and can carry a wide variety of messages .

9. Principle of design The principles of design refer to the organization of a work of art. Each principle interprets how artists use the elements of art, composition and design to express their feelings and ideas. The principles of design involve organization of the elements for visual effectiveness. Through them the elements are brought into meaningful relationship.

10. Motif Motifs are basic and the smallest units of a design which are combined together and arranged in various ways to form a design and pattern. They are the fundamental building blocks of all patterns. Motif is a very general term to describe any number of details of a work of art which are recognizable as a repeat unit. Motifs are required for designing any art. Motif is decorative figure that is repeated in a design. Motif is a basic element of why the piece moves and how it supports the fulfillment of a stipulation .

11. Nature served as the primary source of design making, with the floral forms called butis or butas . Butis are smaller in size and often made of a single flower, bird, animal or leaf. There are basic patterns which are shaped into several forms such as Badam (Almond) buti , Kairi , Chaand (Moon) buti , Asharfi (coin) buti , Paan (beetle leaf) buti and Pankha (fan) buti . There are a number of patterns which are derived from jewellery . The decorative mango shaped buta is called Turanj . Another celebrated pattern of Banaras brocade is Jaal or net design, also known as Jan gala. It is a rich pattern covering the ground of the fabric and owes its origin to Turkish brocades. The Banaras Jaal was very delicate. In the Jaal , flower, bird or animal forms were enclosed within a net-worked form evolved from arch, square or other geometrical forms. P attern

12. Drawing of Basic Floral Design Firstly draw a square of desire size with the help of pencil and scale, then mark midpoint of each of its side. Then join these midpoint to one another to from arcs inside the square in this way a circle is made inside square.

13. STEP 3 :- After that join diagonal of the square and the point at which it crosses each other gives center of circle . STEP 4;- Then different shape of petals is made inside the circle.

14. Drawing of Small Varanasi Buti

15. Composition of design

16. Drawing of Basic leaf Design

17. Weaving Weaving is a technique for creating fabric by interlacing long threads called warp and weft .

18. Two main operation in weaving Primary operation Shedding : In Shedding, first the ends are seperated by raising or lowering Heald frames (Harness) to form a clear space where the pick can pass. Picking piking , the weft or pick is passed across the loom by a shuttle. As the Harness is raised the Heddles or healds , which raise the warp yarn, the shed is created. Beating up Beating up in which the weft is pushed up against the fell of the cloth by the Reed. Between the Heddles and the take up roll, the warp threads pass through another frame called the Reed (which ressamble a comb).

19. Secondary motions: Take-up motion Take- up motion winds the fabric as being manufactured.It means after the beat up of the weft, woven cloth is drawn away from the reed. After weaving a suitable length, the weaver rolls the fabric on the cloth roller with the help of take up motion handle and continues the weaving. Let-off motion Let- off controls the amounts of warp delivered and maintains the regional tension during weaving. This motion delivers warp to weaving area at the required rate and at a suitable constant tension by unwinding it from warp roller.

20. Loom Loom is a machine or device which is used to produce woven fabric. It is the central point of whole process of cloth production. It is a device used to weave cloth. The basic purpose of any loom is to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of the weft threads. The precise shape of the loom and it's mechanics may vary, but the basic function is the same.

21. Parts of loom Warp Beam : The warp beam is a beam that holds the warp, or vertical threads, on the loom. Depending on the loom, this can be a simple beam or a more complex arrangement allowing for easier warping of the loom. Heddles : Heddles are made of cord or wire, and are attached to the shaft of the loom. The warp threads pass through the Heddles, separating the warp threads to allow the weft threads to pass between them easily.

22. Harnesses :- Harness is a rectangular frame to which a series of wires, called Heddles or healds , are attached. The yarns are passed through the eye holes ( Heald eye) of the Heddles, which hang vertically from the Harnesses. Shuttle and Bobbin : The weft yarn wound on a bobbin ( pirn ), which sets into a shuttle. As the shuttle passes back and forth through the warp shed, it releases weft yarn from the pirn .

23. Beater and Reed : The beater of the loom presses the newly created weft thread against the already woven fabric (fell of the cloth) using a Reed. This process is called beating up or beating.     Cloth Roller : It is located at the front of the loom. After completion of weaving the woven fabric is wound on it.     Treadles : These are located at the bottom of the loom and are designed to control warp shed formation by controlling the up and down movement of the heddles. The weaver presses the treadles by their feet for shed formation. The shed on a handloom is controlled manually by giving proper movement to the treadles using foot.

24. Process of weaving The major process steps are Pre loom process Yarn dying Warping Sizing Drafting Denting plan Tie up Sorting of yarn Attending to warp break Attenting to weft break

25. yarn Dying Once the yarn has been chosen, it is dyed to get the desired colour . The process of dyeing involves an exploration of different colours depending on the produce in an old-fashioned manual process, which involves the dipping of the yam into the coloured water and drying it. Dyed yarn can be in two forms, hank or cone form, based on the dying machine. Cone dying form is generally used in the markets and it has less wastage. Warping The warp is a set of threads attached to the loom lengthwise before weaving begins. Warping is the process of creating the base yarn that runs along the length of fabric through which the "weft" yarns are filled in to make the fabric. Typically, yarn are aligned by wrapping them around the circular warping drum.

26. Sizing the warp yarns are stretched out for size application. Sizing Sizing material or starch is applied to add strength and lubricate the yarn. This crucial activity is called "sizing". Natural sizing material like rice, maize, wheat flour, or potato starch is used depending on the region. After the application of the sizing paste onto the stretched yarn, special brushes are used to spread and dry the starch on the yarn. This starch is removed only after two to three washes of the finished product. Drafting Drafting in weaving means the number of heald shafts used to produce a given design and the order is which warp ends are threaded through the heald eyes of the heald shaft. The principle of drafting is that ends which work in different order require separate heald shaft

27. Denting Plan :   The process of inserting warp threads or ends through the dents of reed is called denting and the plan that indicate the order in which denting is done is called denting plan. Usually two yarns are passed through each dent.

28. Tie up : Once the weaver finishes the drawing in and denting, the next process he/she has to do figturtle the healds with the treadles. As shown in figure 1 the first treadle is tied with second heald and second treadle is tied with first heald . Number of heald and treadles to be used depends upon the weave. In figure 2 only two healds are required as it is a plain weave. Likewise for weave 2/1 twill 3' healds and 3 treadles will be required.

29. Attending to Warp Break: Find out broken warp ends. Find out the location of the broken end by visual examination. Mend the broken warp end in the sized beams with the thrums of the same count of the sized beams, using "weavers 'knots" Draw the mended warp yarn through the heddles properly as per the drawing order prescribed. Draw the mended warp yarn through the beater properly as per the denting order prescribed. See that the sley has been brought to the back centre See that the shuttle is inserted fully in the shuttle box Run the loom by using proper hand and foot movements on the appropriate parts of the loom designed for the purpose.  

30. Attending to Weft Break: See that the beater is brought to the back centre. Take out shuttle from shuttle box. Find out the broken pick. Check whether the pick has covered halfway or less. Take out the broken pick. Carefully do the piecing of the weft yarn with the shuttle yarn (Do not do knotting). See that the shuttle is inserted fully in the correct shuttle box. Run the loom by using proper hand and foot movements on the appropriate parts of the loom designed for the purpose.

31. Some basic weave Plain weave Satin weave Twill weave

32. Plain weave Plain weave  (also called  tabby weave ,  linen weave  or  taffeta weave ) is the most basic of three fundamental types of  textile   weaves  (along with  satin  weave and  twill ). It is strong and hard-wearing, and is used for fashion and furnishing fabrics. Fabrics with a plain weave are generally strong, durable, and have a smooth surface. They are often used for a variety of applications, including clothing, home textiles, and industrial fabrics. Lifting order : 1 ,2 up ,3,4,5,6,7,8 down 3,4 up 1,2,5,6,7,8 (repeat)

33. Twill weave Twill weaves are characterized by a diagonal pattern, or twill line, in the fabric. If the diagonal line rises to the left, the fabric is classified as a left-hand twill; if it rises to the right, the fabric is classified as a right-hand twill. Lifting order : 1,6,7,8, up 1,2,7,8 up 1,2,3,8 up 1,2,3,4 up 2,3,4,5 up 3,4,5,6 up 4,5,6,7 up 5,6,7,8 up

34. Satin weave Satin and sateen are two similar types of weave where the surface of the fabric consists almost entirely of floated warp or weft threads. During the weaving process, the warp/weft threads pass over all but one of the threads in the other direction. Lifting order : 1,,3,5 7 up 2,4,6,8, upand repeat.

35. Diomond weave Diamond weave is a classic broken twill weave. Historical diamond weave fabrics are popular for authentic period costuming. Modern fashion taps diamond weave fabric for clothing with textural interest. Diamond pattern fabrics are popular for home decor too. Lifting order : 1,8 up 2,7 up 3,6 up 4,3 up

36. Zig-zag weave In weaving, there isn't a common term specifically called " zig zag weave." However, weaving techniques can achieve a zig zag effect through various methods: Lifting order : 1 up 2 up 3 up 4 up 5 up 6 up 7 up 8 up

37. Honeycomb weave Honeycomb weave, also sometimes called waffle weave, is a weaving technique that creates a fabric with a raised grid-like pattern that resembles the hexagonal cells of a honeycomb Lifting plan :1,3,4,5,6,7 2,4,5,6,8 3,5,7 4,6, 5 4,6 3,5,7 2,7,5,6,8

38. Thanks!