wool: introdction,origin and histrory, process, types, classification, characteristics

information about wool for textile students

1. NAME : AMISHA D. POKAR ROLL NO : 11 SUB : TEXTILE CHEMISTRY (HSCT – 102) CLASS : MSC HOME SCIENCE SEM – 1 (TEXTILE & CLOTHING) YEAR - 2020-2021 COLLAGE : SMT. A. S. CHAUDHARY MAHILA ARTS & HOME SCIENCE COLLAGE GUIDANCE BY : DR. PRAFULLA U. SHAH date : 16/12/2020 ANIMAL FIBER ‘ WOOL’

2. WOOL * Wool is the textile fiber, obtained from sheep, certain other animals, including cashmere ,mohair from goats, other types of wool from camelids . *Wool has serval qualities that distinguish it from hair or fur.Wool fabrics clean easily. Wool also absorbs moisture and insulates against heat and cold.

3. Wool is natural protein fiber. The finest wool is collect from young sheep. The earliest fragments of wool fabric have been found in egypt but mesopotamia is the birth place of wool. First woven wool garments date from 400bc to 300bc.

4. The chief wool producing countries are uk , australia , america , new zealand , china, india , iran , argentina , africa .

5. * India is the ninth-largest producer of wool in the world with a global production share of nearly 2%. *India’s wool consumption is expected to reach 260 million kgs by 2019–20. The wool industry is concentrated in Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan , kashmir,uttarakhand,Uttar Pradesh, Maharashtra and Gujarat. Punjab accounts for about 35% of the wool production units in India. .

6. Classification of Wool Types of wool: C amb’s wool Hogget wool Whether wool Pulled wool Dead wool Cotty wool Tag locks wool

7. 1.Camb’s wool : T he baby sheep is call as camb . The first fleece sheared from a camb about 6-8 months old is known as camb’s wool or sometimes reffered to as fleece wool or first clip. Camb’s wool is immature and not strong as fully developed wool of same sheep. 2.Hogget wool: H ogget wool come from sheep 12 to 14 months old that have not been previously shorn. the fiber is short and fine. 3.Weather wool: A ny fleece clipped after the first shearing is called weather wool. This wool is usually taken from a sheep older than 14 months.

8. 4. Pulled wool: W hen sheep is slaughtered for meat, their root are pulled. Such wool is called pulled wool fiber and is inferior for two reasons. Sheep that are raised for meat generally do not have a good quality of wool. The roots of fibers are damaged by chemicals and tension exerted in pulling. 5.Dead wool: T he wool recovered from a sheep died or killed accidently. 6.Cotty wool: S heep that are exposed to severe weather conditions or lack of nourishment yield a wool that is hard and brittle. 7.Tag locks: T he torn, ragged, or discolored parts of a fleece are known as tag locks.

9. Classification of wool by class Merino wool: Merino wool(obtained frim merino sheep) is considered as best quality wool. -Fiber is strong, soft. -Merino is used in the best types of wool clothing. - The staple of marino wool is relatively short(25-125mm) and ranging from 1-5 inch. - The various of marino sheep are chiefly found in spain , new zealand , south america , south africa and australia .

10. 2.Class two wool: t his class of sheep is originated in england scotland , ireland and wales . - the staple fiber is relatively longer than merino(50-200mm). It is 2-8 inches. -The fiber are strong,fine,and elastic as merino. It has scles and crimps but not as more and goods as merino wool. 3.Class three wool: This class of sheep originated in the united kingdom. -The fiber are about 4 to 18 inches long (100-455mm). -These are coarser and have less crimps and scales. -As a result they are have less smoother and have more luster.

11. 4.Class four wool: This class of wools are 25-400mm long(1-16 inch), coarser and hair like having less scales and little crimp. -Therefore, these wools are less smoother and more lustrous having less strength and elasticity.

12. The Manufacturing Process The major steps necessary to process wool from the sheep to the fabric are: shearing , grading and sorting , cleaning and scouring, carding, spinning, weaving, and finishing .

13. Shearing: 1 Sheep are sheared two times a year—usually in the springtime. A veteran shearer can shear up to two hundred sheep per day. The fleece recovered from a sheep can weigh between 6 and 18 pounds (2.7 and 8.1 kilograms); as much as possible, the fleece is kept in one piece. While most sheep are still sheared by hand, new technologies have been developed that use computers and sensitive, robot-controlled arms to do the clipping .

14. Grading and sorting: Grading is the breaking up of the fleece based on overall quality. In sorting, the wool is broken up into sections of different quality fibers, from different parts of the body. The best quality of wool comes from the shoulders and sides of the sheep and is used for clothing; the lesser quality comes from the lower legs and is used to make rugs. In wool grading, high quality does not always mean high durability .

15. Cleaning and scouring : Wool taken directly from the sheep is called "raw" or "grease wool." It contains sand, dirt, grease, and dried sweat (called  suint );  the weight of contaminants accounts for about 30 to 70 percent of the wool. To remove these contaminants, the wool is scoured in a series of alkaline baths containing water, soap, and soda ash or a similar alkali. Rollers in the scouring machines squeeze excess water from the fleece, but the fleece is not allowed to dry completely . Following this process, the wool is often treated with oil to give it increased manageability.

16. Carding: Next , the fibers are passed through a series of metal teeth that straighten and blend them into slivers. Carding also removes residual dirt and other matter left in the fibers. Carded wool intended for worsted yarn is put through gilling and combing, two procedures that remove short fibers and place the longer fibers parallel to each other. From there, the sleeker slivers are compacted and thinned through a process called   drawing .  Carded wool to be used for woolen yarn is sent directly for spinning .

17. Spinning: Thread is formed by spinning the fibers together to form one strand of yarn; the strand is spun with two, three, or four other strands. Since the fibers cling and stick to one another, it is fairly easy to join, extend, and spin wool into yarn. Spinning for woolen yarns is typically done on a mule spinning machine, while worsted yarns can be spun on any number of spinning machines. After the yarn is spun, it is wrapped around bobbins, cones, or commercial drums.

18. Weaving: Next, the wool yarn is woven into fabric. Wool manufacturers use two basic weaves: the plain weave and the twill. Woolen yarns are made into fabric using a plain weave (rarely a twill), which produces a fabric of a somewhat looser weave and a soft surface (due to napping) with little or no luster. The napping often conceals flaws in construction. Worsted yarns can create fine fabrics with exquisite patterns using a twill weave. The result is a more tightly woven, smooth fabric. Better constructed, worsteds are more durable than woolens and therefore more costly .

19. Finishing: After weaving, both worsteds and woolens undergo a series of finishing procedures including: fulling (immersing the fabric in water to make the fibers interlock); crabbing (permanently setting the interlock); decating (shrink-proofing); and, occasionally, dyeing. Although wool fibers can be dyed before the carding process, dyeing can also be done after the wool has been woven into fabric .

20. Types of W ool Yarn Wool is spun into two types of yarn. 1.Woolen yarn: Woolen yarn is thick and fibers in woolen yarn are held loosely and subjected to only limited twist during spinning. These yarn are woven into thick bulkier material. 2.Worsted yarn: Worsted yarns are fiber,smoother and stronger than woolen yarn. The fibers in worsted yarn are twisted strongly to form fine and strong yarn. These yarns are woven into fine dresses.

21. Chemical Composition of Wool Wool contains some special protein like keratin. Main chemicals composition of wool. Carbon : 50% Hydrogen : 12% Oxygen : 10% Nitrogen : 25% Sulfer : 03%

22. Physical structure of wool

23. Physical properties of wool Composition :keratin Diameter : 0.0005 to 0.0015 inch Length : 1” to 4” or 7” to 9” Lusture : High quality wool contains less lusture Low quality wool contains high lusture Color : white , grey, brown , off white , black Strength : good and less Elasticity : good(30 to 40%) Moisture regain : 10% to 30% Crease resistance : Excellent Effect of heat : At 130 degree centigrade, it decomposes and turns yellow. Effect of insects : the proteins of wool is a modified from of meat so it can be easily attacked by moth grubs and other insects.

24. Chemical properties of wool Effects of acids : wool is attacked by hot sulphuric acid and decomposes completely. - Dilute acids are used for removing impurities without damaging the wool fibers. Effects of alkalis : Structure of wool is sensitive of alkaline substances. -wool will be dissolved by caustic soda solutions. The scouring and bleaching of wool is carried under low alkaline solution like sodium phosphate and ammonium carbonate which have minimum effect on wool.

25. Effect of organic solvent : wool does not affect in organic solvents Effects of micro organism : it affected by mildew if it remains wet for long time. Dyeing ability : wool fiber could be dyed by basic dye, direct dye, and acid dye.

26. Wool fabric is used for all kinds of clothing, couch covers , bedspreads, table cloths and more -Boots -Carpet -Blankets -Sweaters -Coats -Seat covers etc. End Uses

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