4 - 5 Lecture Costumes of the Kushan period.pptx

Costumes of the Kushan period.pptx

1. Kushan Empire (Costumes of the Kushan Period)

2. Learning Objectives We will learn about: Kushan period’s female and male costumes, hairgears and jewellery through sculptures and art of that period. How we can spot huge western influence on costumes of this period How we can see the evolution of totally different kind of costumes, eg - stitched garments

3. Origins… The Kushan Dynasty ruled from 1st to 3rd century CE in northern India, Afghanistan, and Central Asia. Originally from the Yuezhi tribe of Central Asia , they established a vast empire under rulers like Kujula Kadphises and Kanishka I . Their empire connected India, Central Asia, and the Roman Empire , making them key players in trade and cultural exchange (especially through the Silk Route ). They helped spread Buddhism , art , and fashion across Asia.

4. High Point of the Kingdom The only cohesive factor was trade, which has been initiated in the Mauryan Period Contact was established with many parts of western Asia and the Mediterranean by means of envoys. This naturally helped foreign trade, and the influx of foreigners gave even more impetus to trade relations with these areas. It had diverse cultural influences as the boundaries ranged from present day Afghanistan to present day China. Under this kingdom, there was a direct road form Gandhar to China which was under Kushana’s control for more than 100 years

5. Male Costumes

6. Costume varieties Kushan costumes may be divided into five types. The costume worn by: Indigenous people ( natives) Guardians and attendants of the harem Foreign Kushan rulers and their entourage (a group of important people) Other foreigners such as grooms, traders, etc. There is a fifth category- a mixture of foreign and indigenous garments .

7. Foreign costume Chugha : calf-length with a wide richly embroidered border down the centre -front opening, hem and edge of long sleeves; the material of the coat has small rosettes and a V-neck and there is a round motif on the right sleeve Tunic : Kurta -like undergarment visible at the neck Chalana : baggy trousers tucked into calf-length padded boots; straps around the ankle and instep

8. Indigenous style – ( native people) Antariya : kachcha style, only the pleated end hanging at the back has been shortened. Uttariya : worn over the left shoulder across the back and under the right arm, then across the chest and taken again over the left shoulder. Kantha : short necklace.

9. Soldier Antariya : transparent calf-length and worn in the lehnga style Tunic : Visible at the hem and sleeves Mauli : turban wound several times and tied at the right side Mixture of foreign and indigenous costume

10. Guard Antariya : worn in kachcha style up to the ankles. Tunic : knee-length, a fully quilted garment with thick cording at the waist, neck and hem. Quilted upper garments are still worn in north India in winter. Mixture of foreign and indigenous costume.

11. Male Costumes The trousers were worn which could be of linen, silk or muslin in summer but were woolen or quilted in winter. These loose or close-fitting trousers, chalana , were tucked into soft padded boots with leather trappings, khapusa .

12. Along with this was worn the pointed cap of felt, bashylk , or peaked helmet or head band with two long ends tied at the back.

13. Female Costumes

14. Western influence on Female Costumes The Gandhara figures are some of the most intriguing sculptures of the Kushan period , and may well show the beginning of the sari as one of the earlier attempts to create a garment to cover the Torso . This would fall under the category of a mixture of foreign and indigenous garments . There are also some figures of women wearing close fitting ruched trousers with a long-sleeved jacket and an uttariya . In the earlier period, trousers were worn by Greek and Persian women. These females guards adapted their own costume to a tight mid-thigh length jacket

15. We can see a lot of western influence on the costumes in this era . Towards the western side of the empire, we see Sari like dress called ‘ Palla ’. It is draped – over garment worn over a long gown with ruched sleeves and pinned at the left shoulder. They also wear an antariya , which is extended in length . This long antariya is worn in the kachcha style but one end continues over the left shoulder and is broached there like the palla . Kayabandh is simple sash, twisted in parts This is a mixture of foreign and indigenous garment

16. Court Lady Antariya : worn extremely short in kaccha style; the end that is passed between the legs has been tucked in at the back; the other piece is looped to mid-thigh in front and the end tucked in a small looped frill at the centre Kayabandh : there are two : one is a wide sash tied in a loop on both sides to the knees with steamers at each side of the hips hanging to floor length; the other is kakshyabandha , a thick jewelled roll worn aslant which has a large clasp at the left hip Mekhala : five-stringed pearl or jewelled hip belt, it holds the antariya and cloth kayabandh in place

17. Female Guard Tunic : Kushan type with long ruched sleeves Antariya : could be chalana - Kushan loose trousers Kayabandh : twisted sash

18. Servants and dancers from many parts of the world were brought into the country from a very early period in Indian history. The chaddar , a large shawl, continued to be worn by both sexes as protection against the cold and it was known to have been perfumed with bakul , jasmine and other scents. The purely indigenous antariya , uttariys and kayabandh continued to be the main costumes of Indians with slight modifications. The kayabandh became a more loosely worn informal piece of attire, and was a wide twisted sash used mainly by women in many delightful ways to enhance the suppleness of the waist.

19. Common materials Common materials: Wool, cotton, silk, and leather , depending on region and class. The cold north favored woolen garments, while cotton was popular in India. Imported silk from China (via Silk Route) was worn by royalty and nobles. Fabrics were dyed in rich colors — red, maroon, yellow, blue, and green — and often decorated with embroidery or borders.

20. Thank you! Any Questions?