AMBER GRAIN EMBROIDERY | Growing folklore elements | Root-based materials, wool waste fibers, natural colours & advanced technologies

The biodesign approach for fabricating textiles using root-based materials is explored in my final project for my Postgraduate in Fabricademy. I experimented with different types of grain seeds, growing media, patterns, and environments. Additionally, I discovered various post-processing techniques, such as colouring, changing flexibility, and applying biodegradable coatings.

The Amber Grain Embroidery project aims to design bio-folklore costumes featuring elements made of wheat and barley roots. Raw wool is used as a binding agent. The root embroideries are complemented by dried grass and pressed material from seeds. The costumes are inspired by traditional Slovak and Czech folklore costumes, symbolizing the importance of grain as a vital source of livelihood and material wealth.

1. FAB

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AMBER GRAIN EMBROIDERY
Growing folklore elements

Root-based materials, wool waste fibers,
natural colours & advanced technologies

BARBARA RAKOVSKA

2. AMBER GRAIN EMBROIDERY | Growing folklore elements

Pea Grid Emma caja a Geese

sions Spain September 2021

3. BIOGRAPHY

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4. ABSTRACT

Posigaauate ia Fabricada | onperfnenied win dettes 0 gran Seeds BrOying mean. pater And
En nmens RGB ON Tascareine vargu gost oocesi CHAQUE, Such a5 Cl win nr Je.
AS

et
om sc ue costumes ac sted y tocino So and Cech ore costumes symakaing the panes ot
end Ma and o a O OK

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‘riormed Design gta abricanon 8 nature / Wheatgrass Bay | seas: Ñ

5. PREFACE

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{eseoteh it 5 0 specute fashion ace at COIN the tse of materials n the conten of CN eco
SRE ond colavoation ih raat The DEL dem arte pols DB UNS CRIS,

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

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ajo want 1 ans te assstats la Case ang Emma Pam ar he constant sur and assistance wt
BON am alse GALL my Om BIS sms ne Mave Becn great apravon a me Draspnautne

E err mete on ne

6. ABOUT | Growing materials

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me e Ma

STATE OF THE ART | Existing projects research

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7. STATE OF THE ART | Existing projects research

kin; omas Bung skin bi gon in

boul Interwoven. Diana Scherer

‘Gomera À Bem Fe er regen moons wae

‘hs comply onus loca Se Ari"

Be een

Veen router’ ee
Poo etait

8. STATE OF THE ART | Existing projects research

‘Grown tom Root: Woven by Nature - Zena Holloway

mesitas nyaropanic cuivaton

9. BIODESIGN APPROACH | Fabricating textiles

ho Ember gan embroider roec 1 intend 19 communicate the messane of using ere: anrosches for

Ton 3 0 poy altern tothe cytes lato, melo nature tentez ye patter

‘Rehab hans te it row Mn Ti gre cts connate ere O fe shor

ifs a

TRADIONAL say marce ages ction loto ol pr

—

Pranio secas

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10. PROCESS | root domestication

RAS SEEDS FORD AREAS (Bes go Gemini AA Coro cos we Pre

11. OBJECTS OF OBSERVATION | Creating the first samples

‘ay At sto was 1 map out enough reacts ar lth ol and thes would need e make mater tom ots. |
ee ro sede aod ol rahe gens nad uml Seow prose

‘GeRMINATING SEEDS.

Fo es cra be oes Wren a

12. OBJECTS OF OBSERVATION | Creating the first samples

GRASS SEED FOR DRY AREAS - DERMUDA CRASS
ass crown im coco cola

13. OBJECTS OF OBSERVATION | Creating the first samples

CRASS CROWN IN AGARAGAR

14. OBJECTS OF OBSERVATION | Creating the first samples

CRASS CROWN IN AGARAGAR

15. OBJECTS OF OBSERVATION | Creating the first samples

OBJECTS OF OBSERVATION | Creating the first samples

scot rot e Sos rot rue lo patel tenant how ment th ir mac The

16. WHEATGRASS & BARLEY |
Suitable properties

17. WHEATGRASS | Growth characteristics

$06

Seeds are geminateain 3 ys

esta ot any ates ge Pony

oh Sn non woven abies

18. comme
our

hacias
Se

ea \

ES

EE

19. WHEATGRASS | Understanding growth, ensuring appropriate conditions

ron 20 tens

Soe A

20. POST-PROCESSING | Natural dyes POST-PROCESSING | Natural dyes

Brsea none creasing ier Rec by sos tem ln ICE! ine Sci a denaty D MEN canbe

‘seedy nen mesang Eonducting exponents win RAS SERRE ol.

FE SR

‘Sree!

21. POST-PROCESSING | Heat-pressing, natural dyes

Mee sonde, re tony mung miente win à

Process: Vin ess tempersture 20" time $0705

Vea tersa pones ss es
TO LS open eure

POST-PROCESSING | Sodium alginate coating

properties: Acer Avia antintammatay
Fr D Bodegas, Argo tone,

Powseres tate

CROSS-LINKING OF POLYMERS (+ CALCIUM CHLORIDE)
Sodium Alginate

Ait to cross ik polymer naine with calcium solutions
Teautlng on SOUL GELIRE SUBSTANCE
29 Sodium Alginaten 100m #20
29 Calcium Chore in 100m 120

22. POST-PROCESSING | Natural dyes, sodium alginate coating POST-PROCESSING | Heat-pressing, natural dyes

Sodium alginate has fim forming properties, which makes it useful for creating fms or coatings
thatimprove quality and shel te

COLORANT
es powders 90 oye
DRYING MATERIAL
COATING
Oreo mean re secumatooate
ete neo gas strain um Spmenscaton

coating, ago aye ana mia powders

23. POST-PROCESSING | Residual material process

Ymen arvesting te root-pased
‘material we obtain 2 fine sheet by
Separating the foot layer from residual
Grass and seeds This lenover material
&n be tested win natural ayes,
Siycerol, and eat pressed afterwards
We" obtain a material with» higher
density nat also relatively Nexible and
ean be easily laser-cut

POST-PROCESSING | heat-pressing, laser cutting

Je ©

augen Pr

24. Contrast of material densities - ne
Sheet on top of the heat pressed
residual grass and seed layer

25. POST-PROCESSING | Residual material process POST-PROCESSING | Residual material process

The pressed material is about 2mm thick. The material does not burn quick instead it gradually
decomposes and becomes less compact | aid nat observe any problems Surin laser cutting
Engraving isnot possible

Laser cutting machine: Totoc SPEEDY 400 Minen Power Sp

26. POST-PROCESSING | heat-pressing, laser cutting, coating POST-PROCESSING | Heat-pressing comparison

27. POST-PROCESSING | Shaping and stitching fine sheets

¿RETA ws othe ster taming anagem wien

tame sets na
‘Seong the at
pe

Roots ore gran in ach tem

29. GROWING FOLKLORE ELEMENTS

30. GROWING FOLKLORE | cultural heritage AMBER GRAIN | Siavic harvest festival

os eg 0 y Ca eos one bapa esearch iman Shee “olor amer ik nn ae at tes

TRADITION TECHNOLOGY NATURE ins ee BON Beagle wear chy Become costumes,

poe nn mens penne

31. TRADITIONAL FOLKLORE | Embroidery, lacemaking TRADITIONAL FOLKLORE | Festive folk costumes

32. PROCESS |
Embroidery cultivation €
advanced technologies

33. PROCESS | preparation of seeds

PROCESS | growing conditions

34. EMBROIDERY PATTERNS | 3D pr

35. EMBROIDERY PATTERNS | 3D printed moulds

36. PROCESS | Regular care with love PROCESS | Harvesting

emo re torent

38. PATTERNS & MOULDS | Wheatgrass and barley

hang ate ding ean ots een

Baie obrador beeswax movi sonner eer mange ore

40. PATTERNS & MOULDS | Wheatgrass PATTERNS & MOULDS| Barley

41. PATTERNS & MOULDS | Barley & beeswax mould

pater is em covers el OC seo a arms tne ton ves

PATTERNS & MOULDS | Symbiosis with other materials

e nat anne
SEO wouthit on N er a O
AN aNAG ra co! nave became problematic wast nie Is often bumes or landed, instead of Being an income

CS

43. WOOL AS A GROWING MEDIUM | Experiments

44. CREATIVE PROCESS | Sketches & ideation WOOL BASE | Electric sander felting

45. AMBER GRAIN COSTUME | Materials, details

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46. DECORATED DOUBLE LAYER WOOL FABRIC SKIRT

Dg eS

“RSR css

48. WHEATGRASS CROWN WITH FELTED WOOL BASE

49. FELTED WOOL SANDALS |
Barley embroidery

50. Fate woo! sans wih baeyembrodery

51. GUBA | Traditional coat of woolen
fabric worn in eastern Slovakia

52. GUBA | Coat of woolen fabric

53. GUBA | Coat of woolen fabric, elements

55. CONCLUSIONS

56. BIBLIOGRAPHY | PHOTOS | PICTURES

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