BeriCos® VC-IP -Ascorbate Tetraisopalmitate

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate（VC-IP）
Product Name: BeriCos® VC-IP
Alias: VC-IP, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, esterified VC, fat-soluble vitamin C
English INCI : Ascorbate Tetraisopalmitate
Molecular weight ：1129.8
Molecular formula : C70H128O10
CAS NO.:183476-82-6
Appearance: colorless to light yellow liquid
Purity: > 98%
https://www.zhberi.com/

1. BERI PHARMA
ASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATE
BeriCos
®
VC-IP
- Effective Ingredient Explorer -
- Dedicated to Providing Customers with Professional Enabling Solutions -

2. Product Introduction
产品介绍
02.
Market Instance
市场实例03.
Reference Formula
参考配方
04.
目录
文献资料
Literature
05.
01.
公司介绍
Company Profiles

3. 公 司 介 绍
lC o m p a n y P r o f i l e s

4. about us
Founded in 2015, Beri Pharma Co., Ltd. is a
national high-tech enterprise focusing on the R &
D and manufacturing of raw materials and
preparations for great health (pharmaceuticals and
health products) and cosmetics.
Cosmetic Raw Materials
· Whitening & Anti-oxidation
· Moisturizing & Anti-aging
· Collagen
· Anti Hair Loss & Hair-growth
· Anti-inflammatory & Repair
· Sterilization & Acne treatment &
Anti- dangdruff
· Heat Sensitive Agent
· Nanoparticles
Raw Materials for
Pharmaceuticals &
Health Products
· API
· Pharmaceutical
intermediates
· Dietary supplement

5. BERI PHARM
Production area:
≥10000 sqm
Production equipments:
≥80 pieces of
Annual capacity: 400 tons
R & D center: ≥2200 sqm, with
synthesis room, fermentation
room, preparation room,
physical and chemical room,
safety and efficacy evaluation
room, nano liposome
laboratory, etc.
R & D team: composed of PhD,
Masters / Undergraduates
Proportion of R&D staff: ≥30%

6. Honors & Qualitifications
ISO9001 ISO14001 ISO45001
Specialized Innovation Enterprise of
Guangdong Province
National High-tech Enterprise
Innovational Enterprise of Guangdong Province Innovation-driven Enterprise of ZhuhaiTechnical Enterprise of Guangdong Province TOP 100 - Zhuhai Innovation Enterprises

7. R & D Equipments
R & D Lab GC PLCHPLC
LC-MSR & D Lab GC HPLC-CAD

8. R & D Equipments
3D Facial Imager Transdermal tester LC-MS Nano particle size meter
Enzyme marker Stereomicroscope
Transdermal moisture loss meter
Skin cortical meter
Skin elasticity meter
Cuticle hydration meter

9. Efficacy testing instrument
Antera 3D facial imager
Skin elasticity meter
Skin sebum measuring
instrument
Cuticle hydration meter
Transcutaneous
moisture loss meter

10. Product Catalog
Whitening & Anti-oxidation
•BeriCos
®
VCIP I Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (VC-IP)
•BeriCos
®
EAA I Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (EAA)
•BeriCos
®
VCG I Ascorbyl Glucosoide （VCG/AA2G）
•BeriCos
®
W-37 I Phenylethyl Resorcinol (377)
•BeriCos
®
W-47 I 4-Butylresorcinol
•BeriCos
®
4MSK I Potassium Methoxysalicylate
•BeriCos
®
Pterostilbene I Pterostilbene
•BeriCos
®
GSH I Glutathione (GSH)
•BeriCos
®
FerAC I Ferulic Acid
•BeriCos
®
TA I Tranexamic Acid
•BeriCos
®
EUK 134 I EUK 134
•BeriCos
®
Peptidomidex I Peptidomidex
Moisturizing & Anti-aging
•BeriCos
®
GG I Glyceryl Glucoside
•BeriCos
®
Proxylane-POW I Hydroxypropyl
Terrahydropy Rantriol
•BeriCos
®
HPR I Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
•BeriCos
®
Chromanol I Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol
•BeriCos
®
DCP I Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate
•BeriCos
®
IDBN I Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone (Idebenone)
•BeriCos
®
Thiotaurine I Thiotaurine
Anti Hair Loss & Hair-growth
•BeriCos
®
Copyrrol I Pyrrolidinyl
Diaminopyrimidine Oxide
•BeriCos
®
Copexil I Diaminopyrimidine
Oxide
•BeriCos
®
Minoxidil /Minoxidil Aqua I
Minoxidil/Minoxidil Aqua
•BeriCos
®
BM I Bimatoprost
Anti-inflammatory & Repair
•BeriCos
®
Ectoin I Ectoin
•BeriCos® BeCalmin

I Hydroxyphenyl
Propamidobenzoic Acid
Sterilization & Acne treatment
& Anti-dangdruff
Heat Sensitive Agent
•BeriCos
®
VBE I Vanillyl butyl ether
Single Ingredient
•BeriCos
®
OCT I Piroctone Olamine (PO, OCT)
•BeriCos
®
HD-100 I 2-hydroxyethanesulphonic Acid
•BeriCos
®
PQ73 I Quaternium-73 (Pionin)
•BeriCos
®
VB
6-Trip I Pyridoxine Tripalmitate
•BeriCos
®
Azelamide MEA I Azelamide MEA

11. Product Catalog
•BeriCos
®
VCIP-Nano——Sub-nano emulsion of VC-IP
•BeriCos
®
Nano-ACE—— Sub-nano emulsion of HPR, VC-IP,
Tocopheryl Acetate
•BeriCos
®
477-Nano——Nano liposome of 4-Butylresorcinol
•BeriCos
®
GSH-Nano——Nano liposome of Glutathione
•BeriCos
®
NanoWhite——Multi whitening nano liposome
(4-Butylresorcinol, VC-IP, GSH)
•BeriCos
®
AzA-Nano——Nano inclusion complex of Azelaic acid
•BeriCos
®
AzA-60——60% Ultrafine Azelaic acid
•BeriCos
®
ALA-Nano——Nano inclusion complex of Thioctic Acid
•BeriCos® Pterostilbene-Nano——Nano of Pterostilbene
Nano Products

12. 产 品 介 绍
lP ro d u ct In tro d u ctio n

13. Product introduction
Tetraisopalmitate ascorbate（abbreviation VC-IP），It is an esterified
vitamin C derivative and a new generation of derivatives.
Other names: tetrahexyl decanol ascorbic acid ester, esterified VC, fat
soluble vitamin C.
Take the letters in its English name：Vitamin C tetra-isopalmitate，
abbreviation VC-IP；
INCI ：Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

14. Prototype VC has several disadvantages:
•Poor stability, easy to discolor and oxidize under air and light
•VC must be kept below pH 3.5 and is therefore irritating to the
skin
•Because VC is water-soluble, but our skin has a "strong" lipid
bilayer, so this makes it difficult to work through the skin.
Comparative advantage
产品介绍
Instability

15. VC derivative：
Water soluble derivative
Vitamin C Magnesium Phosphate
Vitamin C Glucoside
Oil soluble derivative ：
Ascorbic acid dipalmitate (Vitamin C Dipalmitate)
Tetraisopalmitate ascorbate （VC-IP)
contrast ：
•Under the same conditions, oil soluble components generally have better transdermal
absorption ability than water-soluble components；
•The solubility of ascorbic acid tetraisopropyl palmitate is better than that of ascorbic acid
dipalmitate.
Comparative advantage
Product introduction

16. STABILITY OF VC-IP
VC-IP Store at 40 ℃ or 60 ℃ for 1 month. There is no obvious
change in appearance and hue. The measured vc-ip is heated
at the rate of 5 ℃ / min at 200 ℃, and its weight remains
unchanged at 30-500 ℃. These results show that vc-ip has
good thermal stability (Fig. 1)
Feature 1: strong stability
Product introduction

17. test method：
NHDF was administered with 20-
50um vc-ip or VC for 2 hours,
homogenized and extracted under
the conditions of 3%
metaphosphoric acid and 0.2%
ethanol, and then separated by
high performance liquid
chromatography on ODS column。
•Vc-ip increased the accumulation of VC
in cells
• about 14 times than VC itself. After
lipolysis, vc-ip is transformed into VC in
skin cells, so as to play the role of VC。
The uptake concentration
distribution of vc-ip and VC at
every 20um concentration was
10.2nmol/106 cells and
0.7nmol/106 cells。
Feature 2: oil soluble, skin
friendly, lipophilic, excellent
transdermal absorption
Product introduction

18. Metabolic activity*
Activated cell
*Accelerate collagen
synthesis
antioxidant
‧Prevent sebum peroxidation
‧Prevent DNA damage
prevent cells from being
damaged by ultraviolet light
Whitening effect
*Inhibition of tyrosinase activity
*Inhibition of melanocytes
Product introduction
Mechanism and efficacy

19. ROS
UV
Stress signal release
（IL、TNF-alpha）
Protective activity
(wrinkles)
Destroy
immunity
ageing
inflammation
cancer
cell death
Sunscreen
antioxidant
Strengthen immunity
VC-IP
Product introduction
Anti inflammatory
effect

20. test method：
Human melanoma cells (hm-3-ko) were cultured
with VC-IP in the concentration range of 0% - 0.2%
for 4 days. The cells were then collected with
trypsin and centrifugation. After the cells were
counted, the melanin density of the cells was
measured by Marcia laser densitometer.
VC-IP inhibits tyrosinase activity and
melanin production
Compared with the control group, the
melanin synthesis of VC-IP decreased
from 72% to 12%
Inhibit the formation of melanin
Product introduction

21. test method：
Use the serum-free conditioned medium was cultured in
50um with or without VC-IP for 48 hours, the NHDF cells
were ultrafiltration and concentrated on a SDS-
polyacrylamide gel containing 0.2% gelatin under non
reducing conditions, followed by Coomasie Brilliant Blue
R250 staining, and then measured with a laser densitometer。
VC-IP significantly inhibited the activity of MMPs and the
increase of collagenase induced by UV irradiation
When VC-IP (20-50um) was used, the
activities of MMP-2 and MMP-9 degrading
gelatin were inhibited to 18% - 23% and
10% - 17% respectively. The activity of
MMPs in VC (20-50um) group was 39% -
46% and 42% - 52% respectively.
Product introduction
Inhibit the activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs)

22. test method ：
Human skin fibroblast NHDF cells
were given L - [2,3h] proline for 24
hours in the presence or absence of
vc-ip or VC (20-50um), followed by
cell lysis and subsequent
neutralization by NaOH treatment.
The obtained cell extract was
thoroughly hydrolyzed with
collagenase of Clostridium
perfringens, centrifuged after
tcatennin treatment to produce
supernatant, precipitated into
collagen and non collagen
components, and evaluated by
Aloka liquid scintillation counter lc-
3600 SCI.
The decrease of collagen is manifested
in the photoaging of human skin. It is
reported that the degradation of
collagenase is accelerated due to the
release of collagenase from infiltrating
cells induced by ultraviolet light.
In this case, the degradation rate of
collagen exceeds the rate of
biosynthesis, resulting in the reduction
of collagen.
The effect of VC-IP on promoting collagen synthesis
is about 3.5 times than VC.
VC-IP increased collagen synthesis of
human skin fibroblasts by 170% - 195% in
the concentration range of 20-50um, while
VC increased collagen synthesis by 112% -
127% in the same concentration range。
Promote collagen synthesis
Product introduction

23. VC-IP
（-）
VC-IP
(+)
0　 0.5　 1　 3　 6（hr）
Testing method：
HaCaT cells were treated with 80
mm VC IP. After UVA irradiation,
8-OHdG was detected by
immunohistochemistry with
anti-8-ohdg antibody.
Inhibit the release of 8-OHdG and protect cells from
UVA damage
Inhibit UVA damage to DNA
Product introduction

24. •In cell proliferation, it may promote
skin aging. Tumor suppressor gene
p53 plays an important role in
maintaining cell genetic stability after
DNA (such as ultraviolet irradiation).
After ultraviolet irradiation, the
content of p53 protein increased.
Therefore, p53 can be used as a
candidate marker of DNA damage
induced by UV radiation.
VC-IP can inhibit the increase of p53 expression, so as to
protect DNA from UVB damage.
VC-IP was 0.005% and 0.01% respectively,
and p53 expression was down regulated
to 68% and 58%.
Inhibit UVA damage to DNA
Product introduction

25. test method：
Irradiate the skin with ultraviolet rays to
cause obvious sunburn. Continuously use
VC-IP cream containing 2% and ordinary
cream for 5 days, and compare the skin
dark spots.
The test results show that VC-IP can effectively repair the damage of
ultraviolet rays to the skin and reduce dark spots.
Inhibit UVA damage to DNA
Product introduction
Contain
2%VC-IP
placebo

26. test method：
For small spots after sun
exposure, use
Contains 5% VC-IP essential
oil, every day.
Apply twice for 90 days.
The test results show that VC-IP can effectively
activate cell regeneration and reduce color spots.
Inhibit UVA damage to DNA
Product introduction

27. whitening ultraviolet-proof
Brighten skin Protect DNA
Promote collagen synthesis
anti-aging
antioxidant
Neutralizing free radical
B E R I P H A R M A
Product introduction
Efficacy conclusion

28. Product introduction
Technical
indicators
B E R I P H A R M A
Test items standard
appearance Colorless to light yellow liquid
smell Slight special smell
purity (HPLC) ≥98%
Color value(APHA) ≤ 100
proportion 0.930-0.943
Refractive index (25℃) 1.459-1.465
heavy metal ≤ 20ppm
arsenic ≤ 2ppm
Total colony ≤200 cfu/g

29. test method：
Determine the solubility of vc-ip in
various cosmetic raw materials (5%,
10% and 50% concentration) at 25
° C, 50 ° C and 70 ° C。
S=Soluble
I=Insoluble
Solubility
Product introduction
conclusion：VC-IP is soluble in most oils, both polar and nonpolar.

30. Product introduction

31. Application direction
•Skin care products
•Cosmetic products (lipstick / lipstick, etc., which play an
important role in anti oxidant and gloss enhancement.)
•Essential oil products (Whitening Essential Oil)
•Sunscreen Products
•Facial mask
Product introduction

32. Regulatory
safety
China:<< list of used cosmetic raw materials>>
Europe: allowed for personal care products
USA: allowed for personal care products
Japan: allowed for personal care products
Korea: allowed for personal care products
Australia: allowed for personal care products
Rest of the world: most Asian countries allow it
VC-IP has been widely used as
cosmetic raw materials in the
world for nearly two decades
Product introduction

33. •Foreign products of the Ministry of medicine approved by the
Ministry of health, labor and welfare of Japan (Quasi-drug Active)
• One of Nine "whitening functional cosmetic ingredients"
officially approved by South Korea(Functional Ingredient for
Skin Lightening)”
•The only "medicated cosmetics" among the 13 whitening
ingredients approved by Taiwan's Ministry of health and welfare
Regulatory safety
Product introduction

34. M a r k e t I n s t a n c e
Market Instance

35. SK II lIntensive research freckle
removing and whitening cream
Dr.Ci:LabolBrighten the essence of
musculus translucent
HABA lThree bright white
beauty essence
RHOTO lWhitening vitamin
C essence
Market application

36. Hoolflower Brilliance Essence oil
Shiseidol New whitening and beautifying skin
brightening and freckle removing protective milk
MARUMI l White love pure white milk Chanell Light and white essence
Market application

37. Market application
DecortelSunscreen Lotion PROYAl Print Baja Foundation
至本lNourishing Lip Balm EVMlNicotinamide vitamin C plastic ampoule essence

38. Reference formula

39. •VC-IP is soluble in most oils (whether
polar or nonpolar), except Polyols (such
as glycerol, propylene glycol,
butanediol). VC-IP can be quickly
dissolved in ethanol, hydrocarbons,
esters and vegetable oils, such as
propylene glycol monooctanoate,
castor oil, glycerol triisooctanoate
(glycerol triethylhexanoate), olive oil,
cetyl alcohol ethyl hexanoate and
mineral oil。
•The pH value of the designed formula
(in aqueous phase) shall not exceed 6.
Although VC-IP has good oil solubility,
its stability will be affected by pH value.
Therefore, it is recommended to adjust
the pH value below 6.0 before adding
VC-IP (the pH value cannot be adjusted
after adding). Vc-ip can also be used in
formulations with pH 7 when used in
combination with chelating agents and
antioxidants。
•Keep away from active catalysts
(metal ions of inorganic sunscreen
or organic clay materials)
•Chelating agents and antioxidants
(tocopherol) are recommended in the
formula to effectively prevent
discoloration。
Reference formula

40. Reference formula
Operation process：
1. Phase A is heated to 80 ℃, and phase B is
heated to 80 ℃；
2. Phase B is pumped into phase A,
homogenized for 5 minutes, phase C is added,
homogenized for 3 minutes and cooled；
3. Dissolve phase D in advance, reduce it to 45 ℃,
add phase D and E, and stir well.
Reference formula 1：Anti
wrinkle moisturizing cream

41. Operation process：
1. Heat A and B until dissolved;
2. While shaking B at 4000rpm, add A to B;
3. emulsification （5,000rpm, 3min./200g）;
4. Cool to room temperature, then add C to B;
5. Remove air with a defoamer
Reference formula
Reference formula2：
new life Essence

42. Operation process：
1. Heat phase A to 50 ° C and stir; Stir phase B；
2. Add A to B, stir and homogenize；
3. Add C and D, stir and homogenize。
Reference formula
Reference formula 3 ：
Whitening light spot gel

43. Reference formula
Reference formula 4 ：Whitening oil

44. Literature

45. [1] Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2016).Safety Assessment of Ethers and
Esters of Ascorbic Acid as Used in Cosmetics
[2]Taiwan food and drug administration (2013). You must know the skin
whitening knowledge (II), drug and food safety weekly， vol 424
[3] Cytoprotective effects of the lipoidic-liquiform pro-vitamin C tetra-
isopalmitoyl-ascorbate (VC-IP) against ultraviolet-A ray-induced injuries
in human skin cells together with collagen retention, MMP inhibition
and p53 gene repression.[J]. Journal of Cellular Biochemistry, 2010,
106(4):589-598
[4] Marina Mandelli de Almeda, et al. [J]. Brazilian Journal of
Pharmaceutical Science, vol. 46, n 1, jan/mar, 2010
[5] Patricia M.B.G. Maia Campos, Gisele M. S. Goncalves, Gaspar L R.[J].
Skin Research and Technology, 2008, 14(3):376-380.
[6] Li Xiao. Cytoprotective Effects of the Lipoidic-Liquiform Pro-Vitamin
C Tetra-Isopalmitoyl-
Ascorbate (VC-IP) Against[J]. Journal of Cellular Biochemistry, 2009
Reference formula

46. THANK YOU
B E R I P H A R M A
B E R I
Headquarters : No. 2, Fourth Nanhua Road, Nanshui Town, Gaolangang
District, Zhuhai City, Guangdong Province, China
Guangzhou Branch：Room 1305, Tower B, Jiada Plaza, 303 Guangyun
Road, Jiahe street, Baiyun District, Guangzhou
www.zhberi.com Tel: [phone] Email: [email protected]
Committed to providing professional empowerment solutions for customers