Burn-out printing

This procedure is sometimes referred to as “Burn Out”. A cotton / polyester blended fabric can be printed with a print paste containing the burn out chemicals, and after fixation, the cotton portion is destroyed and only the polyester remains. Burn-out textiles is a technique used to develop raised designs on fabric surface. This is primarily being done in fabrics with at least 2 different fibre content i.e. Cotton-Polyester, Silk-Rayon etc.

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BURN -OUT
PRINTING
Md.AzmeriLatifBeg
M.Scin Textile Engineering
DaffodilInternational University

2. Cotton and other cellulosic fibers are destroyed by
strong mineral acids or their acid salts. This
procedure is sometimes referred to as “Burn Out”.
A cotton / polyester blended fabric can be printed
with a print paste containing the burn out
chemicals, and after fixation, the cotton portion is
destroyed and only the polyester remains. This
allows a patterned lacey design to be imparted to
the fabric. It also is possible to incorporate a
disperse dye in the burn out paste and dye the
polyester during the burn out phase. This process
is very corrosive and requires special screens and
special care in handling.

3. Intheapparelindustry,besidestheartworktobeprinted,themostimportant
thingistheprintingtechnique.Thereareseveralprintingtechniques,andeach
ofthemissuitableforacertainbusinessstrategy.Printingcanalsobedefined
aslocalizeddyeing.Definedastheapplicationofdyeorpigmentinadifferent
patternonthefabricandbysubsequentaftertreatmentoffixingthedyeor
pigmenttogetaparticulardesign.Beingadesigneryoumayhavemultiple
optionstodecidewhichprintingtechniquesismostsuitableforaspecific
designonthegarment.Experienceddesignerschooseprintingmethod
primarilyonthebasisfinaloutcomeasdesignsharpness,durability,brightness,
textureandhandfeel.Sometimesaprintedfabriccanbeidentifiedbylooking
atthebacksideoffabricwherethereisnodesignorcolorasfaceside.
Nowadaysprintisaveryimportantthingforthistextilesector.Printmakes
clothesattractive.Wecan’timagineadressorclotheswithoutprint.Printing
sectorisalsoexpandingandchangingeverydaywiththefashiontrend.Weare
discoveringnewtechniqueandqualitiesofprintdaybyday.Printtechnologyis
growingupwiththeClothesindustry.99%fashionclothesarenowmusthave
anyprintonit.
Printing

4. Cotton and other cellulosic fibers are destroyed by strong mineral acids or
their acid salts. This procedure is sometimes referred to as “Burn Out”. A
cotton / polyester blended fabric can be printed with a print paste containing
the burn out chemicals, and after fixation, the cotton portion is destroyed
and only the polyester remains. This allows a patterned lacey design to be
imparted to the fabric. It also is possible to incorporate a disperse dye in the
burn out paste and dye the polyester during the burn out phase. This process
is very corrosive and requires special screens and special care in handling.
Table below contains the “Burn Out” print paste formula.
Burn-out textiles is a technique used to develop raised designs on fabric
surface. This is primarily being done in fabrics with at least 2 different fibre
content i.e. Cotton-Polyester, Silk-Rayon etc. Here one fibrecomponent is
being dissolved thru chemical reactions while the other content remains
intact giving away raised illusion designs.
The printing factory makes this print with the flat bed printing machine. The
printing way of this print is same as a normal flat bed print, just printer’s use
acid type chemical instead of color.
BURNOUT PRINTING

5. We can do this print only some selected fabric. This print is not possible on
100% cotton fabric. The best composition for this burn out print is 60%
polyester and 40% cotton fabric. This print is also possible on 60% cotton
and 40% polyester.
The main technique of burnout print is destroys the cotton portion of the
fabric with Acid / Chemical. When the chemical flows over the fabric and
contact with cotton portion, then it burn out the cotton by chemical
reaction. Actually cotton is the victim here.
BURNOUT PRINTING
Burn Out Print Paste
Formula Chemical
Amount, g/kg Details
Thickener 48 Guar gum
Ethanol 50
Emulsifying agent 20
Humectant 100 Glycerin
Anionic Wetter 20
Aluminum Sulfate 85 Creates mineral acid
Water Bulk Water to total volume
Total 1000

6. 1. PC or CVC fabric.
2. Paste + Any acid liveratingsalt (like Nacl,Na2 so4)
3. Steaming
4. Washing (Roubastingwash)
5. Burnout print complete
Only print technicians will understand the above 5 points
Step by Step Printing Process of Burn out Print:
1st Step: Develop the print design and screen with the buyer provided
artwork.
2nd Step: Knit the fabric with the yarn of following composition
a) 60% polyester 40% cotton OR
b) 40% polyester 60% cotton Or similar like that.
3rd Step: After complete the kitting of fabric send the gray or scouring
fabric to printing factory.
4th Step: Perform the print on this fabric. Here, the cotton part will be
destroyed by the acid but polyester portion will
be remain same.
5th Step: Then we will dye and finished the fabric as per our require color
BURNOUT PRINTING

7. In the image of the print we will clearly see the Polyester and cottonpart.
BURNOUT PRINTING

8. CottonPortionhadbluewhereaspolyesterishavingnocolor.So,duringburnoutcottonburns
downleavingonlypolyesterportionresultantlyonlywhiteshadeonburntregionanda
wonderfulpatternappears.
Thetechnologyusescotton/polyesterblendedfabricwherecottonportionfromtheblended
fabricisburnedleavingbehindthepolyesterportiononly,accordingtothedesireddesignsby
meansofrotaryprintingmachineandthusprovidingthefabricatexturedlook.

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1
ST
TYPE: Printing with a chemical substance -
destroys the fibre in the design area, resulting a
designed holein the fabric
2
ND
TYPE: Involves blended fabrics –ONE FIBRE IS
BURNT OUT, and ANOTHER FIBRE IS LEFT
UNDAMAGED when treated with chemicals
EX:A rayon/polyester blend. When the burn-out
printing is done, RAYON PORTION
DISAPPEARS(burn-out) leaving the polyester
unchanged. The result is a gauze-like print portionof
the fabric

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For velvet made
of viscose & silk
Using
sodium
hydrogen
sulphate

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Some information about burnt-out print
1)Other names -Devour process, Corrosion process, transparency
process, carbonization printing
2)Flat bed Other names -Devour process, Corrosion process,
transparency process, carbonization printing
3)Flat bed screen printing
4)Acidsinstead of colours
5)Normally the costof burnout print without profit is $4.5 to $5.0/kg
6)Can be done only on some selected fabrics ( cellulose & synthetic
blend or cellulose & cotton blend)
7)best composition-60% polyester and 40% cotton fabric or vice versa
8)ommonchemical use-Sulphuric acid, mixed into a colourless print paste

13. 9.Mostly done on velvet fabrics screen printing
10.Acidsinstead of colours
11.Normally the costof burnout print without profit is $4.5 to
$5.0/kg
12.Can be done only on some selected fabrics ( cellulose & synthetic
blend or cellulose & cotton blend)
13.best composition-60% polyester and 40% cotton fabric or vice
versa
14.Common chemical use-Sulphuric acid, mixed into a colourless
print paste
15.Mostly done on velvet fabrics

14. Step by step printing process of burn out print
1stStep:Developtheprintdesignandscreenwiththebuyerprovidedartwork.
2ndStep:Knitthefabricwiththeyarnoffollowingcomposition
a)60%polyester40%cottonOR
b)b)40%polyester60%cottonOrsimilarlikethat.
3rdStep:Aftercompletethekittingoffabricsendthegrayorscouringfabrictoprintingfactory.
4thStep:Performtheprintonthisfabric.Here,thecottonpartwillbedestroyedbytheacidbut
polyesterportionwillberemainingsame.
5thStep:Thenwewilldyeandfinishedthefabricasperourrequirecolor.

15. Synthrapol
Sodium bisulfate
Guar gum
PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash
Glycerin & Water
Chemicals other than Sodium Bisulfate were also tested for this experiment. e.g.
1.Sulfuric acid Full Black Effect (No Burning)
2.Sodium Hydrosulfite (No Burning)
3.Sodium Bisulfite (No Burning)
Chemicals of Burn out Printing

16. 1.ScourthefabricbymachinewashinginHOT140oF(60oC)water,orbyhandinapot
onthestovewith(2gm)PRODyeActivatorand(2.5ml)Synthrapolperpoundof
fabric(454gm,or3to4yardscottonmuslin,or8yards8mmChinaSilk,or3Medium
T-shirts,or1sweatshirt).Rinsethoroughly.Thisstepdoesnotaddthedyefixativeto
thefabric;itpreparesthefabricfordyeingbyremovinganydirt,oilorsizing.
2.Mixthethickenerpasteafewhours,oreventhedaybeforeuseit.Inalargeplasticor
stainlesssteelbowl,measure2cups(500ml)ofroomtemperature75oto95oF(24oto
35oC)water.Inaseparatedrycontainermeasurea1/3cup(50gm)ofguargum.Using
ablenderorhandmixer,startsblendingjustthewater,thengraduallyaddtheguargum.
Continueblendinguntilwellmixed.Allowtostandseveralhoursorovernightfora
smoothpaste.
Procedure
Equipment
Blenderorhandmixer

17. 3.Maketheburn-outpastejustbeforeyouarereadytouseit.Measurecupplus2Tbl(220
ml)of100oF(38oC)wateranddissolvecup(200gm)ofsodiumbisulfateinthewater.
Remembertoalwaysaddtheacidtothewater,asasafetyprecaution.Oncethesodium
bisulfateisdissolved,addacup(80ml)ofglycerinandthethickenerpastemadeinstep
2.Mixthoroughlyusingyourblenderorhandmixer.Discardtheburnoutpasteafter
threedays.
4.Prepareapaddedsurfacetoprinton.Ifwedonothaveapaddedprinttable,wecan
createapaddedsurfacebylayingdownaterryclothtowelonyourworktableandtaping
itinplacewithmaskingtape.Covertheterryclothtowelwithplasticoracanvasdrop
cloth.Thensecureyourfabricwithmaskingtapeontheplastic,orwithT-pinsonthe
canvasdropcloth.
5.Applytheburn-outpastetothefabric.Screenprint,stencil,orapplytheburn-outpaste
freehand,withfoamorbristlebrush.Makesuretheburn-outpastepenetratesthroughto
thebackofthefabric.Thebestpastepenetrationisachievedbyscreenprinting,followed
bystenciling,andthenfreehandapplications.Whenworkingonsilk/rayonvelvet,itis
besttoprintonthebacksideofthefabricratherthanthepile.Itisimportanttosample
yourmethodofapplicationbeforeworkingonlargeprojects,tomakesurethefabricwill
burn-outsuccessfully.

18. 6.Allowthefabrictoairdrythoroughly.Wecanalsospeedupthedryingbyusingahair
dryer.
7.Carefullyremovetheburnedout(carbonized)areasofyourfabricbyoneofthe
methodslistedbelow.Thispartcanbemessy,soworkoutsideifpossibleandalways
wearacartridgerespiratortoavoidinhalingthesmallfibers.
Gentlyhandswashthefabric.
Gentlybrushofftheburnedoutfiberbyhand.
Useasmallhandheldvacuum.
8.Washthoroughlywithwarm110oF(44oC)waterbyhandormachinewashongentle
cyclewithtsp(2.5ml)Synthrapolperpound(454gm)offabric.Rinsethoroughlyand
hangtodry.
NOTE :
* Curing time and temperature are needed to be pre tested (Lab Trial), some time while using
light blends, Polyester portion also get damaged. So, consequently no good print. One can
choose one of these temperatures and times
1.160C @ 5Min
2.180C @ 2Min
3.200C @ 1Min

19. 1.Burnoutprintisnotpossibleon100%cottonfabric.Clothesshould
bePCorCVC
2.60%polyester40%cottonisthebestcompositionforBurnoutprint.
3.Processlossisveryhigh.Morethan35%
4.SinglejerseyconstructionisthebestconstructionforBurnoutprint.
5.Ifyouneedthefinishedfabricwith120to130GSMthenyoushould
knitthefabricwith160to170GSM.
6.Burnoutprintisnotonlyexpensivebutalsolucrativewithnice
feelings.
Some important points regarding the Burnout print

20. Burnout on Garment

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1
st
printing is done with acid –it destroys a
fibre and produce designed holes –then over
printed with embroidery stitch

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procedure
Chemicalrequirements:
1.Sodium bisulphate
2.Synthrapol
3.Guar gum (thickener)
4.Soda Ash
5.Glycerine

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Equipments needed
1.Scouring m/c
2.Blender
3.Printing table
4.Printing source
5.iron

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1.Scourthe fabric using soda ash and synthrapolin hot water
at about 60⁰ to remove oil, dirt and sizing
2.Rinsethoroughly
3.Prepare thickenerpaste–take water in a blender and
gradually add the guar gum. Continue blending till it is
smooth
4.Next add sodiumbisulphateto water for burn-out paste
5.When acid is dissolved, add to it the glycerine(hygroscopic)
and the above prepared thickener paste and blend well
6.Prepare the padded printing surface
7.Apply the burn out paste by any form of printingsource–
screen or stencil or freehand with foam or bristle brush
Steps to be followed

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1.Allow the fabric to dry through air
2.When dried, it is taken to the ironing
table, place a cloth over it
3.Iron the fabric for about 3 –5 minutes or
until the fabric becomes medium brown.
4.Carefully remove the burnt out areas by
hand wash or brushing off or small
vacuum
5.Wash with warm water (by hand or m/c)
by adding synthrapol detergent
6.Rinse thoroughly and hang to dry

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Precautions & instructions
1.Mix the thickener paste a few hours, or even the day before
you need to use
2.Make the burn-out paste just before you are ready to use
it.
3.The best paste penetration is achieved by screen printing,
followed by stencilling, and then freehand applications
4.When working on silk/rayon velvet, it is best to print on the
back side of the fabric rather than the pile
5.Don't overheat the burn-out areas to a black colour,
otherwise you run the risk of permanently discolouring the
fabric.
6.While working with sodium bisulphate it is important to
wear a dust/mist respirator, rubber gloves, safety goggles,
and an apron or old clothes. Avoid contact with skin or eyes

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disadvantages
Costly
When fixationtemperatureisvariedslightly,
big colour variation occurs and residuescan’t
beremovedoffeasily
Printing paste when used on nextdaywill not
give a smooth finishing (excess=waste)
Excess time / temperature may cause
yellowingin unprinted areas
Risky acids –skindamage

28. Burnoutisagreateffect.Bythisprinting
wegetavintage&Distantlook.Itis
adorableandseemspretty.Synthetic
thickenersareusuallypolysaccharide
basedandnormallyusedindisperse
printingofPolyesterFabrics.This
thickenerisreadilyavailableinmarket.It
isnotsomethinglikespecialthickener.
Remarks

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THANK YOU FRIENDS !
AZMIR