class stitch

Stitch and seam are related to each other because seam cannot made without stitch and vice versa. Stitch is the unit of seam made by three principle i.e.
interlooping , intralooping , interlacing to join two ply of fabric. Stitch are very important in apparel making. It is not possible to make a single garment without stitch

1. GARMENT EXPORT MERCHANDISING MANAGEMENT GARMENT MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY

2. PREPARED BY NAME – ABHIJEET CHAKRABORTY. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY,NEW DELHI. DEPARTMENT- FACULTY OF MANAGEMENT STUDIES. BATCH- GEMM (2018/19 ) EMAIL - [email protected]

3. STITCH TYPES

4. INTRODUCTION Stitch and seam are related to each other because seam cannot made without stitch and vice versa. Stitch is the unit of seam made by three principle i.e. i nterlooping , intralooping , interlacing to join two ply of fabric. Stitch are very important in apparel making. It is not possible to make a single garment without stitch.

5. DIFFERENT TYPES OF STITCHES USED IN CLOTHING Types of stitches 1) Stitch class-100 (Single thread chain stitch) 2) Stitch class-200 (Hand stitch) 3) Stitch class-300 (Lock stitch) 4) Stitch class-400 (Multi-thread chain stitch) 5) Stitch clsss-500 (Over lock or over edge neatening) 6) Stitch class-600 (Covering chain stitch)

6. STITCH CLASS-100 (SINGLE THREAD CHAIN STITCH) In this stitch, one needle thread is passed through the fabric, from needle loop and is secured by the next loop formed by the same thread. Only one needle thread is used for making this stitch & can easily produce at high speed using one needle. Chain stitch is elastic and thicker than lock stitch. If one unit is break then whole stitch is open.

7. TYPES OF CHAIN STITCH Sub class 101- It is used for basting operations in tailored men’s wear and women’s wear . E.g. – Blazer components. Sub class 103- Blind stitch. Feature- one side is visible and other side is like chain. Use- Bottom heaming of pants

8. 2. STITCH CLASS-200 (HAND STITCH) Stitch under this class are also produced with single thread by the use of special type of sewing machine. This stitch cannot be produced for longer length sewing. Uses for stitch costly garments. Hand stitching is a time consuming. It needs high skill for good appearance .

9. 3. STITCH CLASS-300 (LOCK STITCH) It required two types of sewing thread. It is widely used in garments factory. Yarn consumption are comparatively less. Both sides are same. It is difficult to pick up. Less extensibility.

10. STITCH TYPE 301 Lockstitch, has a needle thread and a bobbin thread. Stitch is formed by a needle thread introduced from one side of the material interlacing with an bobbin thread. The needle & bobbin thread cross over in the middle of the fabric. Excellent seam security. Poor extension. Lower productivity. N B

11. STITCH TYPES 301 N B LOCK STITCH

12. STITCH TYPE 304 Lockstitch zig zag , has a needle thread and a bobbin thread. Has same benefits as 301 viz : security of seam Reversibility wont unravel easy Has better extension due to the zig zag configuration . Used mostly on lingerie , foundation wear and underwear, where a secure seam with good extension is required . N B ZIG ZAG LOCKSTITCH

13. 4 . STITCH CLASS-400 MULTI THREAD CHAIN STITCH One or more thread is used. One group is called upper thread and another group is called looper thread. Security of this stitch is higher than lock stitch about 30 %. It is widely use for making knitted garments .

14. STITCH TYPE- 401 TWO THREAD CHAIN STITCH Two thread chainstitch - one needle thread and one looper thread. Needle thread loop is interconnected with two loops of one underthread . Higher productivity. Seam security not as good as lock stitch. Used for joining trouser panels, riser seams and felled seams in jeans . N L

15. STITCH TYPE-406 COVER SEAM STITCH (2 NEEDLE & 1 LOOPER THREAD) Cover seam stitch, has 2 needle and 1 looper thread. Excellent extention , easy to unravel . Used for : T shirts/knits sleeves and bottom hems . stitching of belt loops in jeans & trousers . Gives very good extension, and is mostly used to cover a raw edge in the fabric after the fabric has been hemmed etc. N1 N2 L

16. 5. STITCH CLASS-500 (OVERLOCK OR OVER EDGE NEATENING) It is required for more than two threads. One group is called upper thread and another group is called looper thread. It has good preventing power and edge protection. It is used for making knitted garments. It is also used decorative purpose. It is only use din the edge of the fabric

17. STITCH TYPE 512 4 THREAD OVERLOCK (2 NEEDLE & 2 LOOPER THREADS) It has 2 needle and 2 looper threads. Very good extension, will not unravel easy. Side seams , join panels, attach sleeves, join shoulders etc. on knitted fabrics, tee shirts , polos . 512 is more secure than 504(3 thread overlock ) but less secure than 516 (5 thread safety stitch ) N1 N2 L1 L2

18. 6. STITCH CLASS-600 ( COVERING CHAIN STITCH) Three or more sewing thread are used to make this stitch. Three group of sewing thread are used. Such as needle, looper and covering thread. Sewing thread consumption is very high. This type of stitch are used to join side by side of fabric without increasing thickness. This stitch are used for sewing under wear for attaching lace, braid, elastic etc.

19. STITCH TYPE 605 COVER SEAM STITCH, TOP AND BOTTOM (3 NEEDLE, 1 LOOPER AND 1 SPREADER THREAD) Utilizes 3 needle threads, one looper and one cover thread. Used in knitwear, lingerie & under garments . High seam elasticity. Flat , comfortable seams - ideal for 'next to skin' sewing applications. Can also be used as a decorative seam. Very high thread consumption . S N1 N2 N3 L