Cleansing and care needs of Face , Eyelids and Lips.pptx

Cosmetics m.pharm (cops TVM)

1. Cleansing and Care needs of : Face , Eyelids and Lips By , Aina Basheer Second semester , M.pharm Pharmaceutics Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals FACULTY IN - CHARGE Smt . JISHA MOHANAN DEPT. OF PHARMACEUTICS

2. CONTENTS Introduction 1 Cleansing and care need of : face , eyelids and lips 2 Previous year questions 3 References 4

3. INTRODUCTION The purpose of skin care cosmetics includes cleansing the skin, preserve the skin’s moisture balance, stimulate skin’s metabolism and protect the skin from harmful UV radiation. Skin care cosmetics contain substances which enable the skin to function properly. A good skin care routine helps keep your complexion looking healthy and glowing, and helps to look more youthful. Proactively caring your skin is easier and cheaper than repairing skin problems in future.

4. FACE 1

5. Cleansing and caring for your face is fundamental to maintaining healthy, radiant skin. This process involves multiple steps and the use of appropriate products to address different skin types and concerns . A cleaning cream should have the following properties * It should be stable and should have a good appearance. * It should soften on application to the skin. * It should spread easily without dragging. * During application it should not have oily or greasy feel. * After evaporation of water, the cream residue should not become viscous. * Its physical action should be that of flushing on the skin and pore opening rather than absorption.

6. Cleansing Cleansing is the first and most crucial step in any skincare routine. It removes dirt, oil, and makeup, preventing clogged pores and breakouts. Use a gentle foaming cleanser that maintains the skin’s natural balance For Normal Skin Opt for a gel or foaming cleanser that controls excess oil and prevents acne. Use a hydrating cleanser that adds moisture while cleansin g. Consider using a gel-based cleanser for the T-zone and a milder cleanser for drier areas. For Oily Skin: For Dry Skin For Combination Skin

7. CLEANSING PRODUCTS WHICH HELPS TO MAINTAIN THE CLEANLINESS OF THE FACE ARE : FACEWASH FACEMASK FACE MOISTURIZER POWDER CLEANSERS CLEANSING OILS

8. Face wash These are the products that helps to clean the dirt, oiliness and darken dead cells from the face . Gel Cleansers: Ideal for oily and acne-prone skin. They help control excess oil and prevent breakouts. Example Ingredients: Salicylic acid, tea tree oil. Foam Cleansers: Suitable for oily, combination, and normal skin. They create a foamy lather that effectively cleanses the skin. Example Ingredients: Amino acids, hyaluronic acid. Cream Cleansers: Best for dry and sensitive skin. They are moisturizing and cleanse without stripping natural oils. Example Ingredients: Glycerin, ceramides.

9. Formulation Ingredients Quantity Aqua SF 1 10ml EDTA 0.1ml Glycerin 5ml SLES 16 Cocaimidopropyl betaine 5ml Triethanolamine 0.2ml Perfume 0.5 Water Upto 100ml Micellar Water:  A no-rinse formula suitable for all skin types, especially sensitive skin. It contains micelles that attract and remove impurities  . Example Ingredients: Micelles, glycerin.  

10. Preparation The desired concentration of EDTA were weighed accurately and dispersed in 50% hot purified water (not more than 60 o C) containing desired quantity of gycerine with moderate stirring. Add Aqua SF1 dissolved in remaining (50%) water. Then SLES (primary surfactant), Cocamidopropyl betaine (secondary surfactant) was added. Triethanolamine (neutralizer), and preservative in desired quantity was added and mixed. Sufficient quantity perfume was added.

11. Properties It should be stable and should have good appearance. It should soften on application to the skin. It should spread easily without dragging. During application, it should not have oily or greasy feel. After evaporation of water, the cream residue should not become viscous .

12. MARKETED FORMULATION

13. Face Cleansers It is a facial care product that is used to remove makeup, dead skin cells, oil, dirt and other types of pollutants from the face. This helps to unclog pores and skin conditions such as acne. Many people cleanse too often or use a cleanser that is overly harsh, which will actually break down skin’s protective barrier. A good sulfate and soap free cleanser for the face will be pH balanced and gentle to maintain skin’s barrier.

14. Antibacterial cleansers Some cleansing creams have appeared on the market in which antiseptics have been incorporated. When used routinely, such preparations may be effective in “ degerming ” the skin and may be therapeutic and protective regard to the skin infections. The number of antiseptics available for this purpose is low when the practical considerations of safety, stability, odour and reasonable cost are reviewed. The most widely used antiseptic in the cosmetic area is hexachlorophene .

15. Preparation Ingredients % Beeswax 9.0 Paraffin 10.0 Mineral oil 65/75 30.0 Cetyl alcohol 1.0 Isopropyl palmitate 10.0 Hexachlorophene 0.5 Borax 1.0 Water 30.0 Perfume 0.5

16. Dissolve the hexachlorophene in isopropyl palmitate. Add waxes and mineral oil and heat until completely melted. Bring temperature to 70℃. Heat the borax and water to 70℃, and add to the oil phase, stirring at a medium rate of speed. Continue to stir while cooling until the temperature reaches about 50℃, add the perfume. As soon as the perfume has been completely stirred into the cream, the later can be poured into jars.

17. Face Masks Face masks are used for deep cleansing, hydration, and treatment of specific skin concerns. They are typically applied once or twice a week. Types of Face Masks Clay Masks : Ideal for oily and acne-prone skin. They absorb excess oil, unclog pores, and detoxify the skin. Example Ingredients: Kaolin clay, bentonite clay. Sheet Masks : Suitable for all skin types. They are pre-soaked in serums that provide hydration, brightening, and anti-aging benefits. Example Ingredients: Hyaluronic acid, vitamin C. Charcoal Masks: Effective for oily and combination skin. They draw out impurities and toxins from the skin. Example Ingredients: Activated charcoal, kaolin clay .  

18. MARKETED FORMULATION

19. Face moisturizer:   • It is a cosmetic preparation used to prevent dryness in the skin. •They provide moisture to skin by clogging the pores by removing dirt from them, hence repairs the pores . Moisturizer increases water content in stratum corneum by directly providing water to the skin from their water phase and reduces transdermal water loss. Benefits of moisturizer   It soothes sensitive skin. Helps to fight acne. Prevents flaking and dullness, and creates a protective layer of moisture for the skin.

20. Ingredients % A. Oil phase Stearic acid 4.0 Liquid paraffin 8.0 Lanolin 1.0 Glyceryl monostearate 3.0 B. Water phase Glycerin 4.0 Propylene glycol 4.0 Isopropyl myristate 2.0 Triethanolamine 0.2 Methyl paraben 0.03 Propyl paraben 0.07 Perfume q.s Water To make upto 100.0

21. Preparation Emulsifier and oil soluble components are combined in a beaker and melted at 75 C in a water bath. Water soluble materials and preservatives are melted at 75 C in another beaker. The oil phase is placed in a mortar and pestle after heating, water phase is gradually added and triturated until a clicking sound is heard. Finally perfuming agents and preservatives are added as the temperature cools down.

22. MARKETED FORMULATION

23. Powder Cleansers Powder cleansers are dry formulations that activate with water to create a cleansing paste. They often offer gentle exfoliation.  Suitable For: All skin types, customizable depending on the amount of water added. Example Ingredients: Rice powder, enzyme powders .   Cleansing Oils Cleansing oils use natural oils to dissolve and remove impurities, including makeup and sunscreen.   Suitable For: All skin types, especially dry and sensitive skin. Example Ingredients: Jojoba oil, argan oil .

24. Calendula Rose Foaming Cleansing Powder 18g | 60% white kaolin clay   or  zeolite clay 1.5g | 5%  dried rose powder 1.5g | 5%  dried calendula petals 3g | 10% colloidal oatmeal 4.5g | 15% Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI)1.5g | 5% jojoba oil Weigh  everything into   coffee grinder   and blend thoroughly. To take the lid off at least once and stir around, taking care to turn over everything at the bottom of the grinder to ensure all the ingredients are blending together well.

25. Once the mixture is uniform, gently spoon it into a jar or other container; for a 30g (1.06oz) batch you’ll want a container with a 40–50mL (1.35–1.7fl oz) capacity. To use, dispense a small amount of the powder (~½ tsp) into the palm, taking care to keep the contents of the jar dry. Work the powder into a lather between the hands, massage into face, and rinse before continuing with the rest of the skincare routine.

26. MARKETED FORMULATION

27. Care needs for face   * Start each morning by cleansing your skin.   * Apply toner after washing your face in the morning  .   Moisturize after toning  .   * Apply sunscreen every morning  .   * Wash and moisturize your face again before bed  .   * Use a serum before bed to address spot  .   Exfoliate once or twice a week and Dedicate a special time for face care .  .

28. LIPS 2

29. Lips are considered to be one of the most sensitive organs on human face. The skin of lips is thin and extremely sensitive, so that they are susceptible to irritation and prone to attract problems. They do not have sebaceous or sweat glands. It is extremely important to take proper care of lips. Problems associated with lips are lip dryness, cracking, pain, swelling etc. Drink plenty of water to keep your lips hydrated. It is essential to scrub or exfoliate your lips once or twice a week. No touching or licking the lips (especially dry skin). Before sleeping, remove the makeup. Clean your lips and apply hydrating lip balm. Give lips massage. Avoid sun rays. Choose lip care products wisely. CARE NEEDS FOR LIPS

30. SOME OF THEM ARE : LIPBALMS , LIPGLOSS , LIPLINER , LIPSTICK PIGMENTS USED IN LIP COSMETICS   1. INORGANIC :   * Ultramarine Violet   * Ultramarine blue   * Mica     2.  ORGANIC:   * Brilliant Lake Red   * Deep Maroon     3. OIL SOLUBLE:   * Alizarine Purple   * Quinizarine Green   4. WATER SOLUBLE:   * Acid Orange 7   * Uranine

31. LIP BALMS   ➤ Lip balm is a wax-like substance you apply to moisturize and pain caused by chapped or dry lips.   ➤ Due to thin skin, lips are vulnerable and usually display signs of dryness before other areas of the skin.   Lip balm helps protect lips from dry air, wind, and cold temperatures.   ➤ Lip balms come in a variety of different flavors and pleasant scents.   ➤ Different to other parts of our skin, lips don't have sebaceous or sweat glands, and are covered only with a tiny skin.   ➤ Due to bad and variable weather conditions (wind, coldness, dry air, sun, UV radiation), our lips very easily loose their moisture and softness .

32. Formulation Ingredients % Purpose PHASE A 1.Beeswax 28 Thickener 2.Lanolin 0.5 Emollient 3.Sweet almond oil 70.5 Emollient PHASE B 4.Vitamin E 0.5 Antioxidant 5.Essential oil 0.5 Aroma

33. Weigh the ingredients separately. Add ingredients of phase A in a beaker and heat on a water bath with gradual stirring. At 60℃, stop heating. Mix them together with constant stirring. When temperature becomes 45℃, add phase B. Fill in a wide mouth glass jar and tight lid. Store in a cool, dry place.

34. MARKETED FORMULATION

35. Lip gloss   Lip gloss is a product used primarily to give lips a glossy luster, and sometimes to add a subtle colour. It is distributed as a liquid or a soft solid (not to be confused with lip balm, which generally has medical or soothing purposes) or lipstick, which generally is a solid, cream like substance that gives more pigmented colour . CONTENTS: - Like lipstick, lip gloss is a mixture of waxes, oils, and pigments. However, lip gloss contains less pigments, and those used are often pale in colour or diluted .

36. TYPES * Basic lip gloss: adds basic shine to lips without colour. * Coloured lip gloss: adds a combination of colour and shine. * Glittery lip gloss: can be with or without colour, but has a glitter base

37. LIP LINER: -   Lip liner, also known as a lip pencil, is a cosmetic product.  It is intended to fill in uneven areas on the outer edges of the lips before applying lipstick to give a smoother shape.  It is also used to outline the lips, keeping lipstick inside the lip area and preventing it from "bleeding", creating a bigger contrast and making the lips stand out more. Ingredient for lip liner Ingredients for lip liner Like lipstick, composed of waxes, oils, and pigment. Compared to lipstick, lip liners are firmer in consistency and more deeply pigmented, making them suitable for drawing on to the lip with precision. For these reasons, lip liners have less oil but more wax and pigment than most lipsticks. A popular wax used in the making of lip liners is Japan wax .  

38. LIPSTICK   Cosmetic products containing oils, waxes, pigments, and emollient that apply colour, texture and protection to lips.   This preparation enhances the appearance of lip and are non-tacky.   They are made from hydrophobic material.   When the solid formulates to the lip surface friction melts its briefly and allow for transfer.   The materials cools and reforms creating a film that sticks to surface due to hydrophobic interactions .

39. IDEAL PROPERTIES It should efficiently cover lips with colour and impart a gloss which would last long. It should be able to adhere firmly to the lips and should not provide any greasy appearance. It should not be gritty. It should be easily dried. It should be safe and non-irritating to the lips. It should posses a pleasant fragrance and good flavor.

40. Composition of lipstick   1. Wax mixture:  they are Gloss and hardness of lipsticks are hardly dependant on characteristics and quantity of waxes used. Wax mixture include White beeswax, Candella wax, Carnauba wax, Ozokerite wax, ceresin wax, Cetyl alcohol and cetostearyl alcohol.   2.  Oil mixture: Which are required to blend properly with waxes to provide a suitable film on lips. Ideal mixture contain; Castor oil, Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol and its esters Fatty acids, alkyl amides, Paraffin oil, Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and butyl stearate.   3. Bromo mixture: when products having high staining properties are required, bromo acids are dissolved in polyols.   4.  Colours:  Two types of colouring materials are used in lipsticks.They are staining dyes pigments . Main colouring materials in lipsticks are insoluble dyes and lake colours.

41. Wax Melting range Percentage in which used Remarks Hard paraffin 50-57 1-5 Improves gloss Ceresin wax 60-75 5-20 Increases melting point Ozokerite wax 60-80 1-10 Imparts short fibred texture Candelilla wax 65-69 5-10 Gives smooth and glossy appearance White beeswax 62-64 5-20 Binds oils and higher melting point waxes Carnauba wax 81-86 1-3 Imparts rigidity and hardness Cetyl alcohol 45-50 2-3 Gives emollient properties Lanolin 36-42 5-15 blender Soft paraffin 38-42 5-15 Acts as lubricant & improves spreading properties 5. Preservatives:  Egs;  Propyl Para hydroxy benzoate. it should not be used over 0.1% because it may cause burning sensation, which may trigger off allergic reaction .

42. If a solvent is used for the dissolution of bromo acid, the solution is first prepared and set aside. Lake colours are dispersed by mixing with suitable quantity of castor oil. The colour paste obtained is passed through a triple roller mill until it becomes smooth and free from gritty particles and agglomerates The colour mixture is then mixed with bromo acid mixture.

43. All the ingredients of the base are identified and arranged in the increasing order of their melting points. The mixture is remilled until it is perfectly smooth. Preservatives and antioxidants are dissolved in remaining oil and are added to the mixture. Finally, the perfume is added and the mass is stirred thoroughly but gently. The mixture is poured in the lipstick moulds .

44. MARKETED FORMULATION

45. E YELIDS 3

46. An eyelid is a thin fold of skin that covers and protects the eyes. Eyelids are not just for blinking, they protect the eyes from dirt and other contaminants. They also block light to help us sleep. In addition, they help to keep the cornea moist. As the eyelids are thin and sensitive, only use a mild cleansing solution to clean them.

47. Care routine for eyelids Wet a washcloth with a little bit of mild face cleansing solution. Wipe the eyelashes and eyelids gently. Rinse once or twice using warm water. Apply a dry towel to remove dampness from the crevices of the eyelids. Replace makeup brushes and cosmetic products at least once every six months.

48. Properties of eye make up products Non irritant, non toxic and non allergic Produce homogenous color after application Long lasting effect Good coverage property Water resistance Dry quickly on application Ease in application and removal without hurting the skin It should be dermatological safe. Mascara eye shadow eye liner the fake eyelashes also available in market Eye care product are two types: medicinal non medicinal

49. EYE SHADOW Eye shadows are used to give a background of colour to the eye.   they are marketed in various shades   conventional shades are blue, green, and brown.     They may be either in solid form or liquid paste form.   ➤ Solid form eyeshadow may be powder compact type, oil-based stick type or pencil type.   ➤ liquid base form of eye shadows may be oil base paste or emulsion type; o/w or w/o emulsion type .    

50. Formulation Ingredients Quantity(%) Petroleum jelly 80% Cocoa butter 5% Lanolin 7% Cetyl alcohol 3% Paraffin wax 2% Beeswax 3% Lake Ponceau ( colourant ) q.s Preservatives 0.2%

51. Mix colour with melted petroleum jelly in a separate dry beaker. Melt together cocoa butter, lanolin, cetyl alcohol, paraffin wax and beeswax. Add molten colour mixture to it and stir. Pour melted product directly into a tared container upto the required weight. Keep stirring gently till the temperature drops to 40℃. Add perfume and keep it undisturbed till it cools to room temperature.

52. MASCARA   * Mascara is a cosmetic commonly used to enhance the eyelashes. It may darken, thicken, lengthen, and/or define the eyelashes.   Normally in one of three forms-liquid, cake, or cream-the modern mascara product has various formulas; however, most contain the same basic components of pigments, oils, waxes, and preservatives . Mascara is intended to make eyelashes longer, thicker and darker thereby producing an intense look.

53. DIFFERENT TYPES OF MASCARA   1) Water soluble Mascaras get easily smudged/ flaked & are not long wearing. They can be easily removed with any basic makeup remover.   2) Water proof Mascaras don't get smudged & are long staying. They are the best for summers & Monsoons. They are hard to remove with ordinary removers and needs special oil- based makeup removers. These are highly processed formulas which stay intact on eyes for long hours .

54. CLASSIFICATION OF MASCARA BASED ON THEIR STATE   1) Powder Mascara:   * Powder Mascara is very different from wet and dry mascara. You add a few drops of water into it and use it with a wand.   * The mascara sets to give a false eyelash kind of a finish.   2) Cream Mascara:  Creamy Mascara provides volume to thin and sparse eyelashes and adds depth to the eyes. But this can smudge easily so you will need a special kind of applicator for it.   3) Liquid Mascara: These mascaras are easily found and the most common of all and are mostly used by women who have slightly curled lashes. It enhances and sharpens the lashes. These are available in both water resistant and water-soluble variants .  

55. Formulation Ingredients Quantity(%) Propylene glycol 2.0 Imidazolidinyl urea 0.2 Carbomer 940 0.2 Triethanolamine 0.2 PVP 1.0 Pearl pigment 0.1 Alcohol(ethanol 95%) 20.0 Water To make upto 100 Disperse pigment in a mixture of Propylene glycol, water and Imidazolidinyl urea. Add Carbomer 940 and stir until dissolved. Alcohol and triethanolamine are added successively in water. Finally add PVP to soften the gel.

56. MARKETED FORMULATION

57. EYE LINER   Eye liner is a cosmetic used to define the eyes.   It is applied around the contours of the Eye.   MAC LIQUIDLAST LINER   TYPES   1. Liquid Eyeliner In liquid form. Applied with help of brush   2. Gel Eyeliner gel eyeliner comes in a pot and is applied with a small brush. Gel can also be used to create bold lines and cat like eyes   2. Eyeliner Pencil (Kohl) Comes as a pencil and applied directly to the eyelids to create a variety of aesthetic effects .  

58. Formulation Ingredients % PVP 2.0 Magnesium Aluminium silicate 2.0 Glycerin 4.5 Lanolin 0.5 Diethylene Glycol monostearate 3.0 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 1.0 Pigments 12.0 Water To make upto 100.0 Preservatives q.s

59. Disperse Magnesium aluminium silicate in a part of water to produce a suspension of liquid consistency. Dissolve PVP in it and heat it gently. Add this to molten stearate and lanolin and stir. Dissolve preservatives in glycerin and disperse pigments. Add dispersed pigments to the above mix. Finally dissolve Sodium lauryl sulfate in small quantity of water and mix.

60. FAKE EYELASHES     They are synthetic and natural fibers designed to enhance the appearance of natural eyelashes  Here are some key points : TYPES : They come in various shapes including strip lashes , and cluster lashes . Made from plastic or mink , silk or human hair . Applied with a special adhesive along the natural lash line . Removal by using special remover or gentle pulling to avoid damaging natural lashes .    

61. PREVIOUS YEAR QUESTIONS AND REFERENCES 4

62. Previous Year Questions Functions and properties of face powder (5 marks) Ideal properties and formulation of eyelash and eyeliner (5 marks) Cleansing and care needs for face (5 marks) Cleansing and care needs for lips (5 marks)

63. REFERENCES P . P Sharma . Formulation , Manufacturing and Quality control , 5 th edition  .   Marvin S. Balsam . Edward Sagarin  .Cosmetics , Science and Technology , second edition , volume 1   Textbook of Cosmetics by Vimaladevi    Dr . Antara Choudhary , Dr . Agilandeswari Devarajan . Cosmetic Science . Nirali Publications   Lauren Sharkey , Heather Hobbs , What order should I follow for my skin care routine ?  HEALTHLINE ( Review article ) , May 2024  .

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