Cosmeceutical

Cosmeceutical

1. cosmeceuticals

2. OBJECTIVES DEFINITION INTRODUCTION CLASSIFICATION EXAMPLES EXPLANATION

3. What is cosmeceutical ? A cosmeceutical is an ingredient with medicinal properties, which manifests beneficial topical actions and provides protection against degenerative skin conditions The term cosmeceutical was coined in 1980 by the dermatologist Albert kligman

4. The FD&C Act does not recognize any such category as   "cosmeceuticals."   A product can be a drug, a cosmetic, or a combination of both, but the term " cosmeceutical " has no meaning under the law. Cosmetics Pharmaceuticals COSMECUTICALS

5. "articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body...for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance" DRUG "articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease" and "articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or other animals COSMETICS According to FD&C Act.

6. C osmecuticals Skin Deodorants, moisturizers, facial product, creams, lotion, perfume Hair Hair colorant, conditioners, gels & creams Others toothpaste & powder

7. A deodorant is a cosmetic but an antiperspirant is a drug A shampoo is a cosmetic but an antidandruff shampoo is a drug A suntan product is a cosmetic but a sunscreen product is a drug A skin exfoliant is a cosmetic but a skin peel is a drug A skin product to hide acne is cosmetic but an antiacne product is a drug A skin moisturizer is a cosmetic but a wrinkle remover is a drug An antibacterial deodorant soap is a cosmetic but an antibacterial anti-infective soap is a drug A lip softener is a cosmetic but a product for chapped lips is a drug A toothpaste is a cosmetic but an anticaries toothpaste is drug A mouthwash is cosmetic but an antigingivitis mouth wash is a drug

8. Uv protection Exfoliants Alpha hydroxy acids Lactic acid Glycolic acid Beta hydroxy acids Retinoids Moisturizers Antioxidants Peptides De-pigmenting agents List of common ingredient used in cosmeceuticals

9. UVA wavelengths penetrate deeply into the dermis, causing skin to wrinkle.   UVB  radiation is associated with many skin cancers. The SPF number on sun blockers only applies to UVB protection and has no connection with UVA protection. A SPF number of 30 is recommended for daily use. Higher numbers do not proportionately increase protection. Uv protection Exfoliants Exfoliants remove dead cells and the outer layers of thickened skin, encouraging skin turnover. Alpha hydroxy acids Softens fine wrinkles, lightens pigmentation spots, generally tightens and improves skin texture. Makes skin look healthier and more radiant

10. Retinoids Treats mild to moderate acne and photo-damaged skin, removes dead surface cells, Claims to build collagen, regenerate the skin’s elasticity and Antioxidants Moisturizers Moisturizers smooth the surface of the skin, lubricate its outer layers, and lock in moisture. Antioxidants, the ingredients meant to defend against free radical damage Vitamin A & C Resveratrol Green tea Co-enzyme Q-10 Algae

11. peptides that may stimulate skin metabolism and repair, while others may inhibit hyperpigmentation , slow the breakdown of collagen Peptides Eg : Argireline

12. Aging results from cumulative damage to tissues that overwhelm the body's natural ability to repair them. The tell tale signs of aging on the skin include discoloration, wrinkles, and texture loss These effects result from Genetically programmed chronological aging Photoaging - sun exposure Environmental and lifestyle factors – damage by chemicals, pollutants, smoking, etc. Why Does Skin Age??

13. Certain synthetic organic substances or sunscreens have molecular structures that are capable of "filtering out" the harmful UV rays by mechanisms including absorption, reflection or diffusion. Examples include avobenzone , sulisobenzone , aminobenzoic acid, titanium oxide, zinc oxide and others. Such ingredients appear in the FDA monograph on sunscreen agents. Sunscreens are regulated as over the counter drugs by the FDA. The efficacy of sunscreens is measured as SPF (sun protection factor). What are Sunscreens?

14. UV damage is manifested as sunburn , skin discoloration texture loss. UV rays also trigger skin aging through : Free radical reactions and oxidative stress . Increased activity of enzymes such as collagenase and elastase that are catalyzed by metal ions. Effect of UV Rays Photoaging - sun exposure

15. The results are: Abnormal cross linking of Collagen fibers Scar tissue build up and visible wrinkles and skin discoloration Ravages of chronological aging are accelerated

16. Drug Name Concentration % Absorbance Aminobenzoic acid up to 15 UVB Avobenzone 2-3 UVA I Cinoxate up to 3 UVB Dioxybenzone II up to 3 UVB, UVA I & II Homosalate up to 15 UVB Menthyl anthranilate up to 5 UVA II Octyl methoxycinnamate up to 7.5 UVB Octisalate up to 5 UVB Oxybenzone up to 5 UVB Padimate O up to 8 UVB Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid up to 4 UVB Sulisobenzone up to 10 UVB, UVA II Titanium dioxide 2-25 Physical Trolamine salicylate up to 12 UVB Zinc oxide 2-20 Physical The sunscreens listed in the FDA OTC monograph

17.   Several natural extracts protect the skin from the damaging effects of UV rays : Tetrahydrocurcuminoids SabiWhite Green tea Extract Sesame antioxidants Umbelliferin Xylosin Rosemary extract Rosmarinic acid Lupeol Arjunolic acid

18. In vitro testing Cumulative Irritation testing Repeat Insult Patch Tests (RIPT) Sensitization Ocular Irritation Facial Sting Phototoxicity Photoallergy Comedogenicity Acnegenicity Product Safety Testing Testing needs are determined by the company marketing the product . May include:

19. Dermal irritation: is defined as the production of “reversible damage of the skin following the application of a test substance for up to 4 hours”. Tests used to study dermal irritation: EPISKIN™ human skin model. 2. EpiDerm ™ human skin model. 3. PREDISKIN™ human skin model. 4. Pig ear test.

20. Examples of Instrumental Measurements Parameter Instrument Moisturization Conductance/Impedance Skin barrier function TEWL(Transepidermal Water Loss) Skin texture Topography Skin elasticity Elastometer Skin thickness Ultrasound Blood flow Laser Doppler Sebum (oiliness) Sebumeter Color Chromameter

21. Moisturization → Conductance/Impedance Skin barrier function → TEWL( Transepidermal Water Loss) Skin texture → Topography Skin elasticity → Elastometer Skin thickness → Ultrasound Skin surface characteristics → Microscopy Temperature → Infrared Thermography pH → Skin pH probe Color → Chromameter Blood flow→ Laser Doppler Sebum (oiliness) → Sebumeter Examples of Instrumental Measurements

22. Safe for long-terms use Promote beauty throught health and wellness of skin cosmeceuticals with natural ingredients are preferred Advantage of cosmeceuticals

23. Textbook of Industrial Pharmacy: Delivery Systems, & Cosmetics & Herbal Technology. by Shobha Rani Hiremath , Universities Press. Page no. 291- 301 Food & Drug Administration (FDA) http://www.fda.gov/ 3) Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) http://www.ctfa.org 4) Thornfeldt C. Cosmeceuticals containing herbs: fact, fiction, and future. Dermatol Surg. Jul 2005;31(7 Pt 2):873‐80; REFERENCE

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