Cosmetic Science Face Wash Cleansers

General Introduction, Principles ,Types, Applications and Limitations of Cleansers.
Face Wash, Moisturizing Cream, Cold Cream, Vanishing Creams

1. BP809ET - COSMETIC SCIENCE Unit -II Dr. Vinod M. Thakare Professor M. Pharm., Ph.D., MBA Nagpur College of Pharmacy Wanadongri , Hingna Road, Nagpur 441110

2. Learning Objectives General Introduction, Principles ,Types, Applications and Limitations of Cleansers. Face Wash, Moisturizing Cream, Cold Cream, Vanishing Creams

3. Normally the texture of skin is very smooth but becomes rough due to numerous environmental and age factors. The pH of the skin varies from 4 to 5.6 and refers to the pH of the film of aqueous and soluble material present on the surface of the skin. Sebum is helpful in secretion of sweat and fatty acid influences the pH of the skin surface. Its acidic pH range also acts as preventing or limiting the growth of pathogens and other organisms. Oily skin needs utmost care else skin problems like acne, pimples, blackheads, whiteheads and blemishes starts to show up. The first step in skin care routine for oily acne prone skin is cleansing thus choosing the correct facial cleanser for oily skin is important. There are so many face washes in India for the oily skin types. Most of them have antibacterial ingredients like tea tree, Neem , Tutsi, salicylic acid etc. These ingredients along with other ingredients help to eradicate the pimples. They also help to combat the oil production for oil free skin.

4. They also help to combat the oil production for oil free skin. Oily skin face wash can be foaming in nature which takes off all the traces of oils, sweat and dirt or they can be gel based and are good for very oily skin while gel based face washes are ideal for combination skin types. While both cleansers and face-washes do the basic common job of cleansing your face. A face wash is a foaming cleanser while a cleansing lotion/cleansing milk (or simply called "cleanser") is non-foaming in nature and doesn't have to be washed off- and instead needs to be wiped off.

5. Function of face wash is to remove deeper seated debris and also cleanse pores due to its foaming action. While cleansers are especially good for dry or sensitive skin, for sensitive skin use of gentle face wash just once a day is recommended. For an individual with combination or oily skin, and who doesn't wear makeup, use of face-wash is useful.

6. Composition: There are many ingredients that constitute a face wash and cleansers. These additives are used to unclog pores, to remove debris and dirt from the skin and to condition the skin to flake less and appear healthier. Allantoin : Allantoin is used in many cosmetics and skin care products. The FDA permits the use of 0.5 to 2% conc. in over-the-counter skin protecting products. It is classified as both a skin protectant and a skin conditioner . Skin protectants relieve skin from irritations and skin conditioners reduce the dryness and flaking of skin making it appear healthier. Skin appears supple after the application of skin conditioners.

7. Sodium Laureth Sulphate: SLS, is a cleanser. It belongs to the chemical class of alkyl ether sulphates , salts of sulphated ethoxylated fatty acids . They help to produce foam and make the skin softer. They are typically put in skin products where there is a high mineral content. SLS, which is a main product ingredient in certain personal care products, helps to make something lather.

8. Propylene Glycol: Propylene glycol is a widely used in cosmetic and personal care additive and is an organic alcohol. It has been safe up to 50% concentration. This additive is put into formulas to reduce flaking of the skin and to restore moisture. It locks water in the skin and prevents dull dry skin damage.

9. Triethanolamine : Triethanolamine use as a pH controller and an emulsifier. It is considered safe up to 5% concentration. As an emulsifier, it makes water soluble and oil soluble additives to blend together by reducing surface tension. As a pH control, it keeps the formula from getting too acidic or too alkaline.

10. Glycerine: Glycerine can be both a natural product and a synthesized product and is a sugar alcohol. It is used in many formulas as a skin conditioner, a skin protectant and a humectants. As a skin conditioner, it reduces skin flaking and as a skin protectant it reduces skin irritations. Its humectant properties keep water and moisture in the skin so that it does not dry out.

11. Common Ingredients in Acne Face Wash: Salicylic Acid: This beta hydroxy acid is useful for face wash intended for acne prone-skin. Usually incorporated in 2% concentration, it dissolves sebum build-up and dirt to fight blackheads and whiteheads. This active ingredient can be extremely drying to the skin when overused, so a good moisturizer must always follow.

12. Glycolic Acid: This alpha- hydroxy acid is derived from fruits. It helps to promote quicker skin cell turnover by sloughing off dead cells. This keeps the skin appearing even-toned and fresh, and also prevents dead skin from clogging pores and causing pimples. Glycolic acid additionally stimulates collagen and elastin production, which is helpful as an anti-aging treatment.

13. Cleanser Face Wash Cleansers can be used on a daily basis to effectively remove makeup and dirt from your face, more so than a face wash would. Unlike most soaps and body washes, cleansers do not contain the ingredient sodium lauryl sulphate , which is known to be a common skin irritant . A cleanser is more moisturizing and hydrating than your typical face wash. Cleansers are proven to be gentler than face washes and soaps. Face wash can be used as a substitute for soap. Face washes are perfect for those with oily skin, giving you a more matte look. Face washes foam up like soap when applied, to leave you feeling clean and refreshed.

14. CLEANSER Foaming : Foaming cleansers can also be quite drying and are recommended for oily­ skin. Foaming cleansers are the types of cleansers that last the longest because only small amount of cleanser is required to lather and clean whole face. Foaming cleansers can be too drying for those with dry or irritated skin. These are available as gels or creams. Cream foaming cleansers contain oils and emollients and may not be as stripping as gel foaming cleansers.

15. Non-Foaming : Non-foaming cleansers are usually gel or lotion type gentle skin cleansers marketed for those with sensitive or eczema-prone skin. These are mild cleansers that do not foam and don't seem to clean that much. These do not remove makeup and/or sunscreen. Non-foaming cleansers can be washed off with water. They can also leave a slight film on the skin. These types of cleansers are good for the morning or for those people with dry skin.

16. Cleansing Balms : Cleansing balms are either cream or oil-based tissue-off cleansers. They are usually used as makeup removers or by those with extremely dry skin. Cream cleansing balms resemble thick cold creams, while oil cleansing balms have a petroleum jelly like consistency. They are solid at room temperature, but liquefy when in contact with body heat. These types of cleansers are useful for removing stage makeup, sunscreen, and other waterproof products. They usually leave an oily residue after tissuing off that can be cleaned with a second cleanser.

17. Oil Cleansers : There are two different types of oil cleansers. One is a cleansing oil product and the other is called the Oil Cleansing Method. Cleansing oil removes make-up and water-proof sunscreen that a regular cleanser cannot. The cleansing oil is applied all over the face on dry skin, rubbed and rinsed (turns milky white). Emulsifiers in the cleansing oil allow the oil to be washed off with just water.

18. Micellar : Micellar cleansers are also known as cleansing waters. They are almost like a cleansing toner. To use a micellar cleanser, one needs to wipe on the cleansing solution with a cotton pad and the micellar particles inside the cleanser allow dirt, oil, and whatever else to be dissolved by liquids in the cleanser. For those with skin easily irritated by tap water and everything else, micellar cleansers are an extremely gentle option.

19. Oil Cleansing Method (OCM) is similar to cleansing oils except with some slight differences. In the OCM, plain oil (e.g. safflower, castor, olive, jojoba, vaseline , etc) is rubbed on dry skin, steamed with a warm wash cloth (not hot) and then wiped off. Following up with a non-cleansing oil cleanser is optional. Or else avoid wash cloth and just wash off the oil with a good foaming cleanser afterwards.

20. Medicated : Medicated cleansers are cleansers in any of the above forms (but usually as foam cleansers) that are marketed for acne-prone skin. The cleansers have either salicylic acid (to help unclog pores) or benzoyl peroxide (to help to kill bacteria) as active ingredients. However, most medicated cleansers are too harsh and should be used as separate acne treatment product after cleansing with a plain but gentle cleanser.

21. Soap-Free : Soap-free cleansers are cleansers without sodium lauryl sulphate or sodium laureth sulphate . Cleansers with soap can be irritating or harsh for some. Others might need to use a soap-free cleanser before getting a chemical peel. Using a soap-free cleanser for a few days before the peel will help to prepare the skin for it and make the peel more effective.

22. MOISTURISING CREAM Dry skin lacks water and there are number of ways that cosmetic formulations can temporarily reverse this by a process called moisturization . It is the ability of a preparation to increase the water content of the non-viable epidermis (stratum corneum ). Moisturizing creams are applied for the relief of the signs and symptoms of dry skin, leaving it soft and smooth. Earlier moisturizers were formulated primarily with lipids, based on the assumption that fats and oils make the skin soft. In reality, it is difficult to specify exactly how much water content of skin is required for adequate moisturization . The water content of keratinocytes in the basal layer is about 70%. This decreases to about 15% to 20% as mature stratum corneum reaches the desquamating layers.

23. Currently moisturizing strategy : Increase water-holding capacity of the stratum corneum by external application of hydroscopic ingredients, known as humectants ; these ingredients act in the same way as natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in skin; some materials used in moisturizers, such as lactic acid and urea , are components of NMF. Hold water in the stratum corneum by deposition of a water-insoluble oily material on the skin surface; these materials are known as occlusive agents ; oily materials mimic the effect of the natural lipid bilayers of the skin to restrict evaporation from the surface, that is, petrolatum.

24. Emollients: Application of a thin film of occlusive materials such as oil or waxes makes the skin feel soft and smooth. These materials, commonly known as emollients , often reduce TEWL ( transepidermal water loss ) which tends to increase the water content of stratum corneum , e.g. hydrocarbons, lanolin alcohols.

25. Humectants: Humectants are used to improve moisturization of skin, but there are conditions when humectants may actually deprive the skin of water. Once a humectant has sorbed water, the activity coefficient of water is lowered. If the water in skin tissue does not have a lower water activity compared to the surrounding humectant -water blend, water molecules will not be transferred to skin. Glycerin is frequently the humectant of choice for this reason.

26. Moisturizer for Dry Skin: For treating skin dryness, the most appropriate moisturizers are heavier, oil-based moisturizers that contain ingredients such as antioxidants, grape seed oil or dimethicone . For very dry, cracked skin, petrolatum-based products are preferable, as they are longer-lasting than creams and are more effective in preventing water evaporation.

27. Moisturizer for Oily Skin: For oily skin, moisturizers can still be useful after activities causing skin dryness, such as other skin care products and washing. For oily skin, water-based moisturizers are preferable. Moisturizer for Ageing Skin: Appropriate moisturizers to keep ageing skin soft and well hydrated are oil-based ones that contain petrolatum as the base, along with antioxidants or alpha hydroxy acids against wrinkles. Moisturizer for Sensitive Skin: On sensitive skin (which otherwise is susceptible to skin irritation, redness, itching or rashes), it is preferable to use moisturizers which contain soothing ingredients such as aloe, and that minimize potential allergens such as fragrances or dyes, as well as irritants such as acids.

28. Classification Moisturizing preparations can be classified into four types : 1. Day cream , 2. Night cream 3. Hand and Body lotion, 4. All Purpose cream Disadvantages of Moisturizer Two factors have to be considered while assessing the safety of a moisturizer: The safety of the ingredients it contains The risk of bacterial contamination

29. Specially prepared without mineral oil and sodium lauryl sulphate, has no cancer Prone effect on skin. Some people are sensitive or allergic to certain chemical components, which can cause irritation, rashes, and other allergic reactions. As with most skin-care products, there is a risk of moisturizers being contaminated with bacteria that can cause disease.

30. The first widely used cosmetic dates back to AD 200 when the Greek physician, Galen, published a formula that contained only rose water, beeswax, and olive oil. This formula remained essentially unchanged until the late 1800s, when borax was added to the basic formula to form a simple cold cream preparation. The principal cleansing agent at the time was a lye-based soap made by mixing potash or lye with animal or vegetable-based fats. The art of soap-making became more refined throughout the second millennium

31. COLD CREAM Cold cream is an emulsion of water and certain fats, usually including beeswax and various scent agents, designed to smooth skin and remove makeup. The emulsion is of a " water in oil " type unlike the " oil in water " type emulsion of vanishing cream , which is so-called because it seems to disappear when applied on skin. The original cleansing cream was based on one of the oldest-known emulsions and is commonly known as a cold cream. It was traditionally based on a mixture of natural waxes and vegetable oils (beeswax and olive oil) stabilized with borax. At the turn of the century, mineral oil replaced the more unstable vegetable oil. In a cold cream the proportion of fatty and oily material predominates, but application to the skin resuIts in a cooling effect which is produced from slow evaporation of the water contained in the emulsion.

32. The name "cold cream" derives from the cooling feeling that the cream leaves on the skin. Cleansing creams are classified into two categories . One is the usual white, emulsified, or cold cream type, often referred to as the beeswax-borax type of cream . The other is the translucent , liquefying type, usually anhydrous in character, and consisting of a mixture of hydrocarbon oils and waxes.

33. Beeswax-Borax Emulsion Type Cold Cream Borax-beeswax cold creams are white, opaque, have a high luster and spread easily on the skin, but the use of almond oil still limits the shelf life of the cream. When borax-beeswax cold creams were made with petrolatum and mineral oil rather than almond oil Cold creams were produced that were stable, cheaper and had a long shelf life, making them ideal preparations for industrial manufacture and distribution . Borax-beeswax cold creams are white, opaque, have a high lustre and spread easily on the skin.

34. The use of almond oil still limits the shelf life of the cream. When borax-beeswax cold creams were made with petrolatum and mineral oil rather than almond oil, cold creams were produced that were stable, cheaper and had a long shelf life, making them ideal preparations for industrial manufacture and distribution. Beeswax-borax cold creams are usually made as water-in-oil (W/0) emulsions. After the creams are applied to the skin, mostly the water evaporates leaving the oil which act as a solvent and cleanses the skin of cosmetics and other dirt. Beeswax is an important factor in determining the quality of the cream.

35. MATERIAL & METHOD : Modern formula of cold cream as given below. Borax form salt with beeswax & liquid paraffin provides stiffness to cream. Uses of Ingredients are: White bees wax: Emulsifying agent & stabilizer Liquid paraffin: As lubricating agent Borax: Alkaline substance which react with emulsifying agent to form a soap Rose oil: Perfume.

36. Beeswax with the lowest melting point generally forms the softest emulsions . It is natural, moisturizing , soothing and non-clogging effect on skin. When borax is dissolved in water, it produces boric acid and sodium hydroxide . The sodium hydroxide interacts with cerotic acid in the beeswax - a free fatty acid that makes up about 13% of beeswax by weight - and forms an anionic emulsifier, while the boric acid buffers the system . The emulsifier created by the chemical reaction made the oil and water parts of the cold cream less likely to separate on standing, so cold creams made with borax were more stable.

37. Procedure Weigh the beeswax, melt it with the liquid paraffin and raise the temperature to 70°C. Dissolve the borax in the water and heat up the solution to 70°C. Gradually add the solution to the melted mixture and stir preferably mechanically until the Cream has set. Stirring should be rapid initially but care should be taken enough to avoid excessive aeration as the preparation starts to thicken. Pack in a port and close tightly to prevent dehydration: Over & above while preparing different batches of cold cream there is one thing is noticed that if only small deviation in recipe but not uniformly triturated then cream is not formed or separated out & even high deviation in formula but vigorous Tituration in mortal with pastel in laboratory scale then will provide cold cream with altered properties of cream that which are affected by ingredients of formulation but still cream can be formed

38. Limitations Cold cream is quite heavy in consistency, so people with oily skin will probably not prefer , as it will feel very " greasy " to them. However , most people with oily skin can still use it as a makeup remover. Also people living in hot, humid weathers will find this too heavy; cold cream is more of a winter product.

39. Cold Cream as Cosmeceutical This led to products labelled as powder creams, tissue creams, foundation creams, hand creams, cleansing creams, youth creams and so forth. Selling creams simply as 'cold' or 'vanishing' became less and less attractive and products named by function, rather than by look or feel, became the norm. Consequently , the era of functionalized cold creams ( cosmeceuticals ) emerged. Eg . Hyaluronic acid- skin lightning effect Proxylane - A naturally derived ingredient that improves skin hydration . Collagen - A naturally occurring protein derivative that helps in improving skin texture and erasing fine lines . Ascorbic acid- Reduces the wrinkles

40. VANISHING CREAM Creams which spread easily and seem to disappear rapidly when rubbed on the skin are termed as 'vanishing creams '. These creams are composed of emollient esters which leave little apparent film on the skin with low percentage of oil phase . Traditional formulae of vanishing cream are based on stearic acid. Stearic acid melts on body temperature and crystallizes in a form so it is invisible and providing a non-greasy film . Stearic acid also imparts attractive appearance to the cream. With stearic acid , white creams are produced and sometimes because of this whiteness these creams are called 'snow '. Vanishing creams are all oil-in-water type products with stearic acid or one of its fat-like hydrophilic esters as the major emulsified ingredients and with comparatively little other fat or oil constituents.

41. . Excess stearic acid, a soap and water are the basic constituents of stearate vanishing creams. Purified water , distilled, softened or deionized water is required for the stability of the creams. Hard water will lead to the formation of lime and magnesium soaps which have a tendency to invert the creams. The soap is formed in situ by the reaction between a suitable alkali and stearic acid. The type of soap, added or made at the time is very important in determining the hardness and other characteristics of the cream.

42. The consistency of vanishing cream is governed by the amount of stearic acid saponified or neutralized and also by the alkali used . Sodium hydroxide form harder soaps than potassium hydroxide and comparable amounts will form harder creams. Apart from potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine is also an excellent alkali to prepare good quality creams. Borax can be useful to make a very white cream , but the disadvantage is that the product has a distinct tendency to grain. Ammonia solution has a tendency to discolour creams made with it after some time.

43. Glycerine not exceeding 10% is also incorporated to maintain the consistency and enhance spreadiability . But , being hygroscopic in nature, it may absorb moisture after application, forming of minute globules of water . These problems can be overcome by using alternative glycols.

44. Advantages of Vanishing Cream It helps to keep the skin moisturized. In dry and cold areas, vanishing creams help to keep the skin from becoming rough and scaly . It captures water of the skin and also gives it a clearer and fresher look than before. used as the base for cosmetics and make-up and even just plain foundation. Vanishing cream is not a beautifying cream, but rather a protective covering that the skin gets so that it does not get harmed by all the chemicals that cosmetics usually contain . Pores to be blocked if vanishing cream is not applied as base . It also makes the powders and the make-up to adhere to the skin in a gentler and more natural fashion. Vanishing creams retain the moisture and this helps in keeping the skin healthy. it does not stick or irritate the skin.

45. Limitations Vanishing creams are not to be used all the time and they do not remove marks of acne scarring. It does not remove scars but only heals the acne minimally.

46. Vanishing Creams as Cosmeceuticals The introduction of creams based on functions helped cosmetic companies to differentiate their lines from competitors. It also gave increasingly educated consumers an impression of product sophistication. Vanishing creams became progressively seen as simple and old fashioned. As such, consumers thought it unlikely that they could achieve the results promised by the new lines. Despite the demise of products labelled 'vanishing cream', stearate creams continue to be manufactured to this day - with hand or body creams and lotions, and shaving creams being good examples - so in that sense, vanishing creams never really disappeared.

47. e g . Vitamin E Nourishes and rejuvenates the skin. Prevents wrinkles, fine lines. Fights aging and sun damage. Helps in lightening the skin tone, blemishes and dark spots . Aloe vera , manjishtha and almond extracts Lightens dark spots as well as leaves the skin soft and moisturized. It is active against acne as well.