cosmetics chemistry and general study .pptx

A general study of cosmetics,
Classifications of cosmetics

1. COSMETIC CHEMISTRY 1

2. Topics Covered....... 2 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal A general study of cosmetics, Classifications of cosmetics Preparation and uses of some hair care products: Hair dye, hair spray, Shampoo,

3. Women love wearing makeup, as they feel it can help them enhance their beauty and make them feel and look more attractive and gorgeous. While some cosmetics are useful for making the skin feel soft, healthy and flawless, others assist in adding colour to the skin, thereby giving the appearance of good health and youth. So , whether you want to hide the little imperfections or conceal a blemish, cosmetics come in very handy at masking the small flaws and marks on any part of the body. But then the question arises - are cosmetics efficient enough to give you a good-looking skin forever?  Introduction 3 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

4. The History of Cosmetics 4000 BC: The Egyptians applied Mesdemet (made of Cu and Pb ore ), bright green paste, to their faces, red clay to their lips & cheeks and henna to dye nails them. 1000 BC :In Greece they used chalk or white lead face powder to have a white look. 1500 BC : In China and Japan rice powder was used to paint faces pasty white . 100 AD :In Rome people put barley flour and butter on their pimples, and sheep’s fat and blood on their fingernails for polish. 4 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

5. During the 20 th  century, with industrialization, the use of cosmetics reached a new high as more and more people started put on makeup to enhance their visual appeal. Now, it is hard to imagine anyone without  blushes, eyeliners and lipsticks being bare necessities that women today need for even a “natural” look. The History of Cosmetics 5 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

6. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) which regulates cosmetics in the United States defined cosmetics as: ‘ Intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions Cosmetics  (care substances) are all about changing / improving the appearance or odour of the human body. Cosmetics 6 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

7. Cosmetics are regarded as a means of enhancing one's complexion and beautifying the skin. Skin creams and lotions can be used to deep-cleanse the skin, they remove the dirt and microorganisms from skin. Moisturizers offer excellent protection against cold winds and act as a lubricating agent. B enefits of Cosmetics 7 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

8. There are special sun-protection creams/lotions that can protect you from the harmful UV rays of the sun and minimize the risk of skin cancer. Many cosmetics contain vitamins such as A, D, E and K. These vitamins are essential for healthy skin and hair . B enefits of Cosmetics 8 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

9. Cosmetics are used not only for skin care, but also to treat some skin problems. Dark spots or pimples on the face can be hidden using cosmetic products like concealers. One can also cover dark circles and wrinkles using various anti-aging creams and eye makeup . Not only your face, you can also decorate your nails using attractive nail colours. B enefits of Cosmetics 9 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

10. Deodorants and Perfumes help in making us feel fresh all through the day. Apart from skin care, there are also varieties of shampoos and conditioners available, which keep the hair clean, soft and healthy. The wide range of hair colours available today also helps you to modify and highlight your hair, in the colour and shade of your choice . B enefits of Cosmetics 10 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

11. Types of Cosmetics Makeup can be classified into three categories: Everyday , Medical and Theatrical The most common group includes everyday products worn to enhance natural appearance. Some items also fall into the medical category and are used for things like covering scars or reducing the visibility of rashes. The last group is theatrical, television and film makeup, which actors and actresses use so their features look better in bright or harsh stage lights. These categories include items that improve the appearance of or highlights the face, eyes, lips or nails. 11 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

12. Types of Cosmetics Creams /Emulsion Hand moisturizers sunscreens Solution shampoos , eye liners, Suspension hand washes, shampoos Lotions facial moisturizer, hair conditioner Ointments dressing hair, cleaning skin. Gels shaving products, toothpastes Sticks lipstick underarm deodorant Capsules eye shadow, cheek shadow cakes 12 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

13. Solutions are the homogeneous mixtures of soluble ingredients, (shampoos , body wash, hand cleansers, mascaras, eye liners, colognes). Creams/ Emulsions are prepared by combining three formula components, such as oil phase, aqueous phase and an emulsifier, (hand moisturizers, make up, hair conditioners, sunscreens). Lotions are less greasy and lighter counterparts of creams, (facial moisturizers, leave-in hair conditioners and moisturizing cleansers ). Different Kinds Of Cosmetics 13 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

14. Suspensions are similar to creams, suspensions are clear solutions containing visible particles, such as gelatin beads or inorganic minerals, spread throughout, (sunscreens, hand washes and shampoos) Ointments / Pastes are anhydrous (contain no water), extremely thick ,sticky and greasy products used for dressing hair and cleaning skin. Gels are thick, clear products characterized by a property known as “shear thinning”. That is, they are thick when new but get thin and flowable as you start applying force to use them, (hair products, body washes, shaving products and toothpastes). 14 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

15. Powders are an amalgamation of solid raw materials which are ground together to get a fine powder, (baby powder, eye powder, foot powder, talcum powder).  Sticks are solid delivery forms that are delivered by rubbing them against the skin, (lipstick or underarm deodorant).   Tablets & Capsules: The solid ingredients are blended well with one another and pressed to get the desired shape, (compact powder, eye shadow, cheek shadow cakes). 15 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

16. The entire worldwide cosmetic industry, sales reach about $170 Billion dollars a year. It’s distributed pretty uniformly around the world with approximately $40 billion in the Americas, $ 60 billion in Europe, $ 60 billion in Australia & Asia, and another $10 billion in Africa. The Western world spends a bit more per person but India and Asia are quickly catching up. Worldwide Cosmetic Market 16 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

17. The size of Indian Cosmetics Industry globally is $ 274 billion, while that of the Indian cosmetic industry is $ 4.6 billion. The current size of the Indian Cosmetic Industry is approx US$ 600 million. Among these fastest growing segment is color cosmetics, accounting for around US$ 60 million of the market. Industry sources estimate a rapid growth rate of 20% per annum across different segments of the cosmetics industry reflecting with an increasing demand for all kinds of beauty and personal care product. Growth in the Indian Cosmetic Industry has come mainly from the low and medium-priced categories that account for 90 % of the cosmetics market in terms of volume. Size of the Indian Cosmetic industry 17 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

18. 18 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

19. Hair Care Market includes conditioners , styling products, hair color , and relaxers. Skin Care Market includes skin moisturizers, cleansers, facial products, anti-acne, and anti-aging products. Make-up Market includes anything from lipstick to nail polish, blush, eye-shadow, foundation. Fine Fragrance is the highest profit segment of the cosmetic industry but consumers are choosy. Only a few brands can last for a long time. The “other” category represents toothpaste, deodorants, sunscreens, depilatories, and other personal care products not yet mentioned. 5 Cosmetic Segments 19 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

20. Lakmé  is the Indian brand of cosmetics. Revlon  is an American cosmetic for skin care, fragrance, and Personal Care Company. Oriflame Cosmetics is a cosmetics group, founded in Sweden The L'Oréal Group  is the world's largest cosmetics and Beauty Company. Maybelline  is a makeup brand sold worldwide and owned by L'Oréal . Avon Products, Inc . is a US cosmetics, perfume and toy seller with markets in over 140 countries across the world. ColorBar cosmetics  are one of the leading brands of color cosmetics in India. Top leading Cosmetic Companies 20 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

21. Henna  is an orange dye commonly used as a deposit-only hair colour whose active component,  lawsone , binds to keratin. It is therefore considered semi-permanent to permanent, depending on a person's hair type. Indigo is natural dye from a plant ( Indigofera tinctoria , suffructicosa , or arrecta ) that can be added to henna or layered on top of it to create brown to black colours in the hair. On the colour wheel, henna is orange, and indigo is blue, so as  complementaries , the two colours work together to create brown tones. Like henna, indigo may fade after one application, but it becomes permanent on the hair with repeated use . Plant-based dyes 21 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

22. A liquid or cream preparation of soap for washing HAIR to remove the dirt, used for the removal of oils, dirt, skin particles, dandruff, environmental pollutants and other contaminant particles that gradually build up in hair. In the early 1930s, the first synthetic detergent shampoo was introduced. The 1960s brought the detergent technology we use today . HAIR SHAMPOO 22 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

23. Over the years, many improvements have been made to shampoo formulations. In the personal care industry, nearly all of the ingredients that can be used are classified by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) in the governmentally approved collection known as the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). HAIR SHAMPOO 23 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

24. Ingredients of Hair- Shampoo Foam boosters Thickeners Water Conditioning Agents Detergents Additives Preservative Hair Shampoo Ingredients 24 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

25. Ingredients of shampoo Water: Main ingredient of shampoo (70-80%). Detergents: Surfactant helps to clean the hair and strips it of oil which is similar to what soap does. These are extracted from coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and soy bean oil. Primary detergents used in shampoos are ammonium lauryl sulfate , sodium lauryl sulfate . 25 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

26. Ingredients of shampoo Foam Boosters: primary detergents, they are also derived from fatty acids and have both water soluble and oil soluble characteristics. Typical materials include cocamide DEA . Thickeners : NaCl 26 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

27. Ingredients of shampoo Conditioning Agents: guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride which is a polymer, dimethicone which is a silicone, and quatemium 80, a quatemary agent . Preservatives: Two of the most common preservatives used in shampoos are DMDM hydantoin and methylparaben . Special additives: Natural materials such as botanical extracts, natural oils, proteins, and vitamins all impart special qualities and help sell shampoos. Additives such as zinc pyrithione are included to address the problem of dandruff. 27 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

28. Hydrophilic head Hydrophobic tail Water Air Surfactant molecule has two parts—Hydrophilic head & Hydrophobic tail. Surfactant molecules in aqueous solution concentrate at the air–water interface with the hydrophobic part oriented toward the air side. Surfactant behaviour in solution 28 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

29. Surfactant behaviour in solution When the concentration of surfactant increases, the interface becomes saturated with surfactant molecules that penetrate into the solution. Water Air 29 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

30. To minimize their interaction with water, the hydrophobic parts of the surfactants interact together and form micelles in solution. When Shampooing, Anionic surfactants containing hydrophobic tailgets adsorbed to grease or dirt of hair. Thus, these dirt are removed by further rinsing. Surfactant behaviour in solution Water Air micelle 30 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

31. Based on Appearance: Powder Shampoos, Liquid Shampoos or Lotion/Gel Shampoos or Solid Cream/Cream Shampoos Oil Shampoos , anti dandruff, medicated shampoo. Based on Use or Function: Conditioning Shampoo, Antidandruff, Therapeutic, Baby shampoo. Based on Origin: Herbal, Synthetic Classification of Hair Shampoos 31 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

32. Raw materials (Deionized water, Conditioning agents, Surfactants, other additives) are poured into large batch tank and thoroughly mixed. The mixture may be heated or cooled to facilitate blending A sample from the batch is sent to the quality Control testing lab. After the batch is approved, the shampoos send to the filler, which fills the measured amount in empty bottles. Hair Shampoo Preparation of Hair Shampoo 32 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

33. DANDRUFF SHAMPOO (SELENIUM SULFIDE ) This medication is used to treat dandruff and a certain scalp infection (seborrheic dermatitis). It reduces itching, flaking, irritation, and redness of the scalp.  Selenium sulfide is also used for a condition that causes discoloration of the skin ( tinea versicolor ). This medication belongs to a class of medications called anti- infectives . It works by slowing the growth of the yeast that causes the infection . 33 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

34. Hair Spray is a common cosmetic product that is sprayed onto  hair to keep it stiff or in a certain style. Hair Spray 34 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

35. Weaker than hair gel, hair wax, or glue, it is sprayed to hold styles for a long period. Using a pump or aerosol spray nozzle, it sprays evenly over the hair. May leave hair feeling "crunchy" unless brushed out. Hairspray is a solution of polymers in a very volatile solvent. Spraying deposits a stiff layer of the polymer on your hair after the solvent evaporates. Hair Spray 35 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

36. Ingredients (Hair Spray) Propellants Holding Agents Solvents Additives Packaging Hair spray Ingredients 36 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

37. Holding agents: Hairsprays work by coating the hair with polymers , which are long chain chemical compounds. Propellants : as the name implies, are responsible for propelling the hairspray out of the can. Additives : Hairsprays contain a number of chemical additives in addition to polymers and solvents Hair spray Ingredients 37 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

38. Solvents : make up the largest portion by weight of an aerosol hairspray Packaging: Aerosol hairsprays have traditionally been packaged in containers made from tin plated steel or aluminum . Hair spray Ingredients 38 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

39. The manufacture of aerosol hairspray requires highly automated equipment . Batching: The solvent is charged into the tank first and then followed by the Polymers , Additives, Plasticizers, neutralizing and anti- corrosive agents in large batch tanks composed of stainless steel. The solvent makes up the largest proportion of the formula. The tanks are equipped with a large turbine mixer with blades that are several feet in diameter for proper mixing. Preparation of hair spray 39 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

40. Filling: The packaging components are staged on the filling machinery. A piston mechanism injects a precise amount of liquid into the can . The gaseous propellant is shot into the cans and the valve cup is immediately pressed. Cans are checked for bad valve seal or a leaky can and removed. A cap is placed over the valve at the end of the filling line; this prevents the aerosol from being accidentally activated during shipping. Finally packed into boxes. Preparation of hair spray 40 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

41. The by-products of aerosol hairspray are the environmentally unfriendly VOCs emitted into the atmosphere, deplete the ozone layer, these chemical by-products are also used in inhalant abuse. Harmful effects of Hair spray 41 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

42. Cosmetics today contain a wide range of harmful chemicals which, if used in excess, slowly damage our skin and body. The average woman exposes her skin to over 100 different chemicals everyday in the form of make-up and beautification products. Dangerous chemicals like  sodium sulphates ,  phthalates ,  triclosan  and  various reactive acids  present in most popular cosmetic products today are absorbed by the skin into the bloodstream and lead to numerous persistent side effects, have serious effects on the user’s general health. Side effects of Cosmetics 42 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

43. Increases the chance of getting cancer .   toxic ingredients that can cause multiple kinds of cancers. Breathing Disorders.  salicylates and lead-containing lipsticks can lead to breathing difficulties that are similar to asthmatic attacks. Damage To our Reproductive Systems.   Butyl paraben in particular was linked to DNA damage in men’s sperm, it can lead to a terribly adverse impact on reproduction processes and reproductive hormones. It could even lead to infertility. Side effects of Cosmetics 43 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

44. Disruption of Thyroid Systems.  Use of cosmetics over a long period of time, can affect adversely your endocrine system, particularly the thyroid gland. Allergic Reactions.  It can produce allergic reactions in the skin, eyes and hair, especially if used in excessive amounts, (ethyl- paraben , butyl- paraben , isopropyl- paraben , Salicylates . Sodium lauryl sulphate). Side effects of Cosmetics 44 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

45. Skin Discoloration.  A number of cosmetics, like creams, skin toners, sunscreens and blushers can have bleaching and/or darkening effects on the skin. Potential Eye Infections.  Use of excessive make-up on and around the eyes can lead to redness, watery eyes. Depression .  Numerous of studies link cosmetic use with depression and mood swings. Triclosan , parabens lead to hormonal imbalances. Side effects of Cosmetics 45 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

46. Go natural more often. Switch to natural remedies like preparing pastes from fruits, vegetables, medicinal herbs, eating healthy and drinking plenty of water. Buy cosmetics   (natural and organic) free from the harmful chemicals. In all your products, beware and look for the following chemicals: parabens, sodium sulphates, phthalates, sodium benzoate, triclosan , methylisothiazolinone , acrylates, salicylates, butlene glycol, zirconium, tartrazine , nickel sulphate, potassium bromate, colouring dyes aluminum , nitrosamines, octinoxate , propylene glycol, oxybenzone , etc. Alternative of synthetic Cosmetics 46 Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal