Costumes of Sikkim & manipur

Costumes of Sikkim & Manipur

1. Assignment of History of Design & Fashion

2. Costumes of Sikkim & manipur

3. Costumes of Sikkim…… Costumes of Sikkim reflects the social & cultural lifestyle of the major communities namely Lepchas , Bhutias & Nepalis . The original inhabitants of Sikkim, the Lepchas , flaunt themselves in costumes, furnished with resplendent colors.

4. the Lepcha … The traditional costume of the Lepcha male is Thakra -Dum which involves a white pajama, stretching only to the calves, yenthatse , a lepcha shirt and Shambo , the cap. The texture of the male dress is rough & long lasting suitable for the hardy toil in field & forest.

5. The hereditary costume of Lepcha women is Dumvum or Dumdyam , a kind of smooth and cosy ankle-long dress, draped like a saree , Tago a loose-fitting comfortable blouse, Nyamrek , a belt and Taro, a cap. The magnificent ornaments exhibited by the Lepcha women, entail, earrings, called Namchok , Lyak a necklace, Gyar , a bracelet, and so on.

6. The Bhutias …. The Bhutia community, hailing from the adjacent country of Tibet, has over years become rooted in the culture and social norms of Sikkim.

7. Bhutia males comprises Kho , also known as Bakhu . It is a loose mantle which is tied at the neck on one side, and at the waist region with a silk or cotton belt. Added to this basic garment, a Bhutia man dons Jya Jya , a waist coat, the shirt, called, Yenthatse , shirt, Kera , a cloth-belt and Shambo , the cap. A Bhutia woman`s general costume consists of Kho or Bakhu , Hanju , a silky full-sleeve loose blouse, Kushen , a jacket, a different pattern of the cap, Shambo and Shabchu , the shoe.

8. The Nepali….. Nepali, another predominant group of Sikkim, has sustained the ethnicity of their own culture in their costume. The Nepalese men dress themselves in Shurval , a Churidar Pajama, topped off by a shirt, known as Daura . It is associated with Aaskot , wrist coat and their belt, called Patuki .

9. The traditional costume of the Nepali women of Sikkim is endowed with fabulous hues. Pharia , the saree , gorgeous in vibrant shades, definitely augments the grace of the Nepali women. The dressing gets the right finish with a long loose blouse, is fastened from four sides and hence is called Chaubandi Cholo . Another variety in blouse is the Tharo Cholo . The upper portion of the body is daintily enveloped with a piece of cloth with wonderful prints. It is called Hembari .

10. Woolen Carpets ………. Woolen Carpets are without a doubt the most famous offering to come out of Sikkim. It is also probably the oldest form of carpet weaving in the world. The carpets are really a treat to eyes as they created by using different colored wool. They are decorated with exquisite patterns depicting landscapes of snow clad mountains or flowering valleys. Floral motifs are also quite popular among the people here. You will also see styles taken from Buddhist Iconography and geometrical patterns.

11. Handlooms …… Sikkim stays cold for most part of the year and people generally wear woolen clothes. People of Sikkim save a lot on wool and money by designing the old and used woolen blanket into bags, shawls, jackets and many dolls. Government has opened some cottage industries in the state to promote and help people grow in handlooms. Handicraft products from Sikkim are gaining recognition and accolades from all parts of the world. And this fame and popularity seems to have encouraged the craftsmen of Sikkim even more .

12. Costumes of Manipur… The costumes of Manipur carry their own unique characteristics. Stressed on its functionality, the traditional Manipuri costumes are simple and easy to wear. A traditional Manipuri costume for women includes a shawl called Innaphi , a Phanek and a wrap around skirt called sarong. A Manipuri man wears a dhoti, a jacket and a white Pagri or turban.

13. Different costumes are worn during the colorful Manipuri festivals. In fact there are separate costumes for separate festivals in Manipur. The Potlois and Kumins are the traditional costumes for the Rasa Leela festivals. Other traditional dresses worn during the festivals and festival related dances are the Koks , Phurits etc. Some other dress forms used by different tribes in Manipur are Lmaphie , Saijounba , Ningthoupee and Phiranji .

14. Textiles…….. The growth of handicrafts and textiles in Manipur is related to the socio-religious functions and imbued with their philosophy of life. Woven fabrics often identify the social status of an individual. To differentiate the chief from the serf, the craftsmen produced superior and durable textiles in varied patterns and workmanship. The craftsmen improved their skills, experimenting with vegetable dyes and different kinds of yarns.

15. Design and embroidery used in Manipuri Textiles……… Lamphie :  It is a war cloth that is a special type of shawl embroidered by the women at home and is used by the warriors at the time of going out for war. Ningthouphee : It is a waistcoat, which is presented by the king to the warriors of the country. Saijounba : It is a long coat that is prepared with special embroideries for the very trusted courtiers of the king. Phirananba : These are the small flags delicately embroidered and used by the warriors as plumes on their turbans. Namthang - khut -hut: A design derived out of the head of Pakhangba on the wrapper, meant to be used only by the ladies of the royal family. Khamenchatpa : These designs are embroidered on the dhotis and are presented to the people of distinction. Phiranji : It is a red colored blanket presented to the persons of merit. The color of the blanket is totally red and is believed to have been copied from the blood with the placenta.

16. The material used for weaving clothes was mainly from cotton and Kabrang (mulberry silk). In both the plains and the hills of Manipur cotton was widely grown. Three types of cotton were available: ( i ) White cotton (ii) Reddish cotton (iii) Tree cotton

17. From Fiber To Fabric…….. Traditionally cotton and silk are the only two fibres used for weaving cloth in Manipura . Silk yarn is obtained from the cocoons of Silleima til that feeds on the leaves of the silleima tree, as well as from the cocoons of other silkworms. The hill people cultivate the cotton plants, and the Meiteis bought the yarn through a system of barter, offering them vegetables and cereals in exchange.

18. In order to produce proper yarn they pass through the following processes: Ginning is the process of removing the seeds from the cotton. Garding means cleaning the cotton by flicking method. Spinning is the process through which the cotton is wound round the wooden or iron spike. Winding is the process of transforming the yarn from wanks to bobbins. Twisting and Spinning Dyeing - the dying is done with indigenous dyestuff, mostly from barks and the common type of mordants . Sizing - Once the yarn is ready, they start weaving and finally the garments produced have to pass through the process of bleaching. Yarns are bleached to make them white or to prepare them for dying or printing.

19. Significance of Colors….. In traditional Meitei society, colors are rife with symbolism. Red, the colour of blood, signifies courage, bravery and good luck. Green, the colour of the surrounding vegetation, is symbolic of growth, peace and tranquillity . Yellow is associated with the advent of spring and symbolizes gaiety, innocence and the lively sentiments of youth. White, used in temples and for ritual dresses, indicates purity, devotion and sanctity. Black signifies evil, bloodshed and death. Saffron is a sign of sacrifice and surrender, and is worn by women on sacred occasions.

20. Types of Loom…. Three types of looms enjoy prevalence in Manipura , the loin loom or khwang , the throve shuttle loom or pangiyong , and the fly shuttle loom or kon yongkhan .

21. Design Techniques….

22. Applique ….. An ornamental style developed using similar materials, and involved the stitching of pieces of fabric on to the surface of another fabric. The technique blended fabrics finely in a harmonious combination. Applique designs involve eye-catching, rounded patterns that cannot otherwise be produced on the loom.

23. Embroidery…. There are three distinct types of embroidery patterns in Manipura . An interesting pattern is the round or circular design seen on the border of the phanek . This pattern is stylized and abstract. Another pattern depicts natural objects realistically, while a third type, the sha-nga , has excellent examples of exquisitely worked needle craft that is highly developed and aesthetically appealing.

24. Motifs….. The textile motifs of Manipura are rooted in sociological significance and mystic symbols. The designs and patterns date back over the centuries and are associated with commonly held beliefs, customs and rituals.

25. Reference:--- www.indianetzone.com/costumes_sikkim.htm www.indianetzone.com/costumes_manipur.htm www.wikipedia.org Thanx …