Design of cosmeceutical products addressing dry skin

Sub: cosmetic and cosmceutical.
Design of cosmceutical product

1. DESIGN OF COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS ADDRESSING DRY SKIN, ACNE, PIGMENTATION, PRICKLY HEAT. PREPARED BY - MANSI GANGWAR ENROLLMENT NUMBER- 202130820004 BRANCH- PHARMACEUTICS M.PHARM 2ndSEM SUBJECT- COSMETICS AND COSMECEUTICALS (MPH204T) 1

2. content DRY SKIN Sign and symptom Causes Prevention Treatment Marketed formulation ACNE Pathogenesis Causes Sign and symptom Prevention Treatment PIGMENTATION Types of pigmentation Causes Sign and symptom Treatment PRICKLE HEAT Types of prickle heat Causes Sign and symptom Treatment Marketed products 2

3. What is cosmeceuticals ? “ Cosmeceuticals ” means combination of “ cosmetic ” and “ pharmaceuticals ”. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically active ingredients purposing to have medical or drug-like benefits. The term cosmeceutical was coined in 1980 by the dermatologist “ ALBERT KLIGMAN ” 3

4. ACCORDING TO FD&C ACT “ COSMETICS ” is defined as "intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions". This broad definition includes any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product. 4

5. Dry skin Dry skin is also called “ XEROSIS ”. Dry skin is a very common skin condition characterized by a lack of the appropriate amount of water in the most superficial layer of the skin, the epidermis. It can be characterized as scaly, rough, and dull , which can lead to itchiness. In addition, it generally has red patches and can be characterized with less elasticity and a rough complexion. Dry skin occurs most commonly on the scalp, lower legs, arms, hands, the sides of the abdomen, and thighs . 5

6. Environmental factors, such as humidity and temperature, have a profound effect on the amount of water retained within skin. For example , frequently hand washing and sanitizing causes evaporation and dryness. Dry skin may also be a side effect of some medications as well as a by product of certain skin diseases. 6

7. The epidermis is normally composed of fat (lipid) and protein. The lipid portion of the epidermis along with specific epidermal protein (for example, filaggrin ) helps prevent skin dehydration.. When there deficient protein and /or lipids the skin moisture evaporates more easily. As skin becomes dry, it also may become sensitive and prone to rashes and skin breakdown 7

8. Untreated, dry skin may result in complications, including eczematous dermatitis, secondary bacterial infections, cellutitis , and skin discoloration . 8 CELLUTITIS ECZEMATOUS DERMATITIS SKIN DISCOLOURATION

9. Sign and symptoms of dry skin Rough, scaly, or flaking skin Itching Gray, ashy skin in people with dark skin Cracks in the skin, which may bleed if severe Chapped or cracked lips When dry skin cracks, germs can get in through the skin. 9

10. Causes of dry skin Dry skin often has an environmental cause. Certain diseases also can significantly affect skin. Weather : skin tends to be driest in winter, when temperature and humidity levels plummet. Heat : wood burning stoves, fireplaces will reduce humidity and dry the skin Hot baths and showers. Harsh soaps and detergents. Other skin conditions : such as eczema and psoriasis. 10

11. prevention MOISTURIZE : moisturizer seals skin to keep water from escaping. LIMIT WATER EXPOSURE : keep bath and shower time to 10 minutes or less. SKIP THE DRYING SOAP : try cleansing creams, shower gels with added moisturizers. Cover as much skin as possible in cold weather. WEAR RUBBER GLOVES : for protection from harsh chemicals. 11

12. 12 TREATMENT

13. HIMALAYA INTENSIVE FACE MOISTURIZING LOTION . KEY INGREDIENT Rubia cordifolia country mallow Aloe barbadensis Indian madder which keeps your skin moisturized and hydrated all day long. 13 MARKETED FORMULATION

14. 14 LOTUS HERBALS NOURISHMENT CRÈME KEY INGREDIENT Wheat germ Oil Tulsi Ashwagandha which acts as a protective shield for dry skin and helps in fighting the environmental elements It also removes dead cells, reduces signs of aging, protects skin from getting sun burnt and helps in retaining the moisture

15. acne Acne is a inflammatory skin condition that occur “when oil & dead skin cells block the pore opening” causing sebum to build up inside the pore . Acne also known as “ ACNE VULGARIS ”, is a long –term skin disease that occur when hair follicles are clogged with dead skin cell & oil from the skin . I t is characterized by blackhead or whitehead, pimple, oily skin & possible scarring . I t primarily affect areas of skin with a relatively high number of oil gland , including the face, upper part of chest & back. Acne is most common among teenagers, though it affects people of all ages. Depending on its severity, acne can cause emotional distress and scar the skin. The earlier you start treatment, the lower your risk of such problems. 15

16. The blockages in acne occurs as a result of the following four abnormal process: A higher than normal amount of sebum production (influenced by androgens), Excessive deposition of the protein keratin leading to comedone formation Coloniztaion of the follicle by “ propionibacterium acnes” bacteria, And the local release of pro-inflammatory chemicals in the skin. 16

17. pathogenesis The earliest pathologic change is the formation of plug (a microcomedone ) , which is driven primarily by excessive proliferation of keratinocytes in the hair follicle. In the normal skin, the skin cells that have died come up to the surface and exit the pore of the hair follicle. However, increased production of oily sebum in those with acne causes the dead skin cells to stick together . The accumulation of dead skin cell debris and oily sebum blocks the pores of the hair follicle, thus forming the microcomedone . 17

18. This is further exacerbated by the biofilm created by propionibacterium.acnes within the hair follicle. If the microcomedone is superficial within the hair follicle, the skin pigment melanin is exposed to air, resulting in its oxidation and dark appearance (known as black head or open comedone ) In contrast, if the microcomedone occurs deep within the hair follicle, this cause the formation of a whitehead (known as a closed comedone ) Other troublesome lesions can develop, including the following: PAPULES: inflamed lesion that usually appear as small, pink bumps on the skin and can tender to the touch PASTULES (pimples): papules topped by white or yellow pus-filled lesions that may be red at the base. NODULES : large, painfull , solid lesions that are lodged deep within skin. CYSTS : deep, painful, pus-filled lesions that can cause scarring. 18

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22. The excessive use of soap or detergent scrubs Stress Genetics Application of heavy moisturizers and makeup Several medication like lithium, hydantoin , isoniazid, and glucocorticoids Hormonal activity, such as occur during menstrual cycle and puberty. Higher androgen production levels causes overproduction of sebum. Environmental factors. Eating chocolates and greasy food. 22 CAUSES OF ACNE

23. Sign and symptoms Black heads ( pulged with dark sebum) Crusting of skin bumps. Cysts. Papules (small red bumps) Pustules (small red bumps containing white or yellow pus) Redness around the skin eruptions. Scarring of the skin. Whiteheads. 23

24. Preventive measures MASKS : These are the products that contain substances like clay, kaolin, or talc , which can absorb sebum and make the skin temporarily dry . HAIR OILS : Liberal use of hair oils or oil massages is to be discouraged as this could contribute to acne . Frequent shampooing is advised to keep scalp free of seborrhea . ADJUVANTS COSMETICS : Cosmetics with fragrances and photosensitizers should be avoided. Water-based foundation is safe to use . MOISTURIZERS : Appropriate use of oil-free moisturizers should be permitted or even encouraged. The objective is to correct dryness to be comfortable in feeling and appearance without causing oiliness. 24

25. CLEANSERS : The purpose of cleansing is to remove dirt, sebum, and sweat that could stick on to an oily skin . Soaps are not recommended as they dry up the skin which is already dry and irritated with topical medications such as retinoids . Soap-free cleansers with pH of 5–7 are the best. Salicylic-acid-containing cleansers as gels and foams are helpful in the early stages of treatment. EXFOLIATORS : These are the products which contain cornedolytics like salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and resorcinol. They are available as cleansers, washes, leave-on-gels, and scrubs. Exfoliators speed the natural renewal of skin cells and help in the treatment of acne by alleviating comedones . 25

26. treatment Treatment for blackheads, white heads, and mild inflammatory acne : doctors usually recommend an otc or prescription topical medicine for people with mild acne Treatment for moderate-to severe inflammatory acne : treated with prescription topical or oral medicines, alone or in combination. Treatment for severe nodular or cystic acne : for patients with severe inflammatory acne that does not improve with medicines, a doctor may prescribe isotretinoin , a retinoid (vitamin A derivative). Treatment for hormonally influenced acne in women : in some women acne is caused by excess od androgen hormone. The doctor may prescribe birth control pills, low dose corticosteroid drugs, such as prednisone or dexamethasone, antiandrogen drugs such as spironolactone. 26

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28. Topical medication RETINOIDS AND RETINOID-LIKE DRUGS .  Drugs that contain retinoic acids or tretinoin are often useful for moderate acne. These come as creams, gels and lotions. Examples include tretinoin ( Avita , Retin -A, others), adapalene ( Differin ) and tazarotene ( Tazorac , Avage , others). You apply this medication in the evening, beginning with three times a week, then daily as your skin becomes used to it. It prevents plugging of hair follicles. Topical retinoids increase your skin's sun sensitivity. They can also cause dry skin and redness . 28

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30. Antibiotics These work by killing excess skin bacteria and reducing redness and inflammation . The antibiotics are often combined with benzoyl peroxide to reduce the likelihood of developing antibiotic resistance. Examples include clindamycin with benzoyl peroxide ( Benzaclin , Duac , others) and erythromycin with benzoyl peroxide ( Benzamycin ). 30

31. Azelaic acid and salicylic acid   Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid produced by a yeast. It has antibacterial properties. Salicylic acid may help prevent plugged hair follicles and is available as both wash-off and leave-on products. A 20% azelaic acid cream or gel seems to be as effective as many conventional acne treatments when used twice a day. Prescription azelaic acid ( Azelex , Finacea ) is an option during pregnancy and while breast-feeding. It can also be used to manage discoloration that occurs with some types of acne. Side effects include skin redness and minor skin irritation. 31

32. Oral medications Antibiotics .  For moderate to severe acne, you may need oral antibiotics to reduce bacteria. Usually the first choice for treating acne is a tetracycline (minocycline, doxycycline) or a macrolide (erythromycin, azithromycin). Oral antibiotics should be combined with other drugs, such as benzoyl peroxide, to reduce the risk of developing antibiotic resistance. Severe side effects from the use of antibiotics to treat acne are uncommon. These drugs do increase your skin's sun sensitivity. 32

33. Combined oral contraceptives They are products that combine progestin and estrogen (Ortho Tri- Cyclen 21, Yaz , others ). You may not see the benefit of this treatment for a few months, so using other acne medications with it for the first few weeks may help. Common side effects of combined oral contraceptives are weight gain, breast tenderness and nausea . 33

34. Anti-androgen agents The drug spironolactone ( Aldactone ) may be considered for women and adolescent girls if oral antibiotics aren't helping. It works by blocking the effect of androgen hormones on the oil-producing glands. Possible side effects include breast tenderness and painful periods. 34

35. isotretinoin Isotretinoin ( Amnesteem , Claravis , others) is a derivative of vitamin A. It may be prescribed for people whose moderate or severe acne hasn't responded to other treatments. Potential side effects of oral isotretinoin include inflammatory bowel disease, depression and severe birth defects . 35

36. pigmentation Skin pigmentation is the color of your skin due to a certain amount of melanin , a natural pigment that gives your skin, hair, and eyes their unique color . Your skin could become darker or lighter due to changes in your body’s production of melanin . Pigmentation disorders are disturbances of human skin colour , either loss or reduction, which may be related to loss of melanocytes or the inability of melanocytes to produce melanin or transport melanosomes . 36

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38. Synthesis of melanin Melanin is synthesized in the dendritic cells ( melanocytes) which are present in the basal epidermal layer 38 Production of melanin pigment is stimulated by uv radiation as well as melanocytes stimulating hormone secereted by anterior pituitary gland

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40. Types of Pigmentation disorders Hyperpigmentation Hypopigmentation Pigment changes from skin damage 40

41. hyperpigmentation Hyperpigmentation   is a common, usually harmless condition in which patches of skin become darker in color than the normal surrounding skin. This darkening occurs when an excess of melanin, the brown pigment that produces normal skin color, forms deposits in the skin . Types of hyperpigmentation Melasma Sunspots Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation 41

42. Melasma is believed to be caused by hormonal changes and may develop during pregnancy. Areas of hyperpigmentation can appear on any area of the body, but they appear most commonly on the stomach and face. Sunspots Also called  liver spots  or solar lentigines . They’re related to excess sun exposure over time. Generally, they appear as spots on areas exposed to the sun, like the hands and face. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation This is a result of injury or inflammation to the skin. A common cause of this type is  acne 42 MELASMA SUNSPOTS POST INFLAMMATORY HYPERPIGMENTATION

43. hypopigmentation Hypopigmentation  refers to patches of skin that are lighter than your overall skin tone. If your skin cells don't produce enough melanin, the skin can lighten. These effects can occur in spots or may cover your entire body . Types of hypopigmentation Albinism Vitiligo pityriasis alba 43

44. Vitiligo Vitiligo is a chronic skin pigmentation disorder. Roughly 1 to 2% of the world’s population has vitiligo The main symptom of vitiligo is a complete loss of pigment in the skin, which results in patches of white. The most likely places for vitiligo to appear are in areas where sun exposure is frequent, including the hands, feet, face, and arms. 44

45. Albinism Albinism  is a genetic disorder caused by defects in genes that provide instructions for melanin production .  Several genetic defects makes the body unable to produce or distribute melanin . The main symptom of albinism is a lack of color in the hair, skin, or eyes. These symptoms can affect the entire body or just small patches of skin . In some cases, a person with albinism will have some color in their hair, skin, and eyes, but it will be lighter than normal. 45

46. Pityriasis alba Pityriasis alba  most commonly occurs in children, slightly raised patches on the face. There’s no definitive cause for pityriasis alba, though it’s thought to be related to  eczema.   46

47. Pigment Changes from Skin Damage When skin is damaged, it can become   discolored . For example, wounds and burns can cause skin discoloration that is long-lasting or permanent, depending on the severity. 47

48. Sign and symptoms 48 Patchy loss of skin colour Premature whitening or graying of the hair Loss of color in the tissues that line the inside of your mouth and nose ( mucous membrane) Change in color of the inner layer of the eyeball

49. causes Sun Damage Skin injuries related to acne vulgaris Excess production of melanin Hormonal changes due to pregnancy Presence of endocrine diseases like Addison’ s diseases Inflammation Excess exposure to sunlight 49

50. treatment LIGHTENING CREAMS :   They’re usually applied once or twice a day to help lighten the skin over time. Topical treatments for lightening also come in gel form. Common ingredients found in OTC lightening products include: hydroquinone licorice extract N- acetylglucosamine vitamin B-3 ( niacinamide ) Lightening creams or gels work best for flat spots, such as  melasma  or age spots. They’re effective for patches of discoloration on most skin types. 50

51. ProActiv Complexion Perfecting Hydrator. Best for oily skin, this lightening cream reduces redness and hyperpigmentation. 51

52. Face acids F ace acids, or skin acids, work by exfoliating, or shedding, the top layer of your skin. Whenever you exfoliate your skin, new skin cells emerge to take the place of the old ones. The process helps even out your skin tone and makes it smoother overall. Many face acids are available OTC at beauty stores and drugstores . Ingredient: alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, lactic, citric, malic, or tartaric acid azelaic acid kojic acid salicylic acid vitamin C (in the form of l-ascorbic acid) 52

53. FAB Skin Lab Resurfacing Liquid : This daily serum uses  malic acid  to help improve overall skin tone while also reducing the appearance of your pores. ProActiv Mark Correcting Pads : Powered by a combination of glycolic and salicylic acids , these pads exfoliate your skin while reducing the appearance of acne scars. 53

54. Chemical peel A chemical peel uses acids at stronger concentrations to treat the desired area of skin. They reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation by removing the epidermis . Possible risks with chemical peels include redness, irritation, and blistering. When used improperly, blisters or scars may also develop. Chemical peels may work if you have: age spots sun damage Melasma 54

55. Prickly heat/heat rash Prickly heat is an itchy, red skin rash that occurs when the sweat glands become blocked. Sweat that cannot flow onto the skin surface instead leaches into the skin, resulting in tiny areas of inflammation and swelling . These areas appear on the skin's surface as red spots and blisters t hat produce a prickly feeling Prickly heat is sometimes called “ sweat rash”. Children tend to get it more than adults because their sweat glands are still developing 55

56. Types of prickly heat 56

57. MILIARIA CRYSTALLINE MILIARIA CRYSTALLINE : is caused by blockage of the sweat glands close to the outer surface of the skin (epidermis) . The rash is made up of tiny blisters that look like beads of sweat. In many cases, this type of prickly heat is only mildly itchy or not itchy at all. The blisters tend to burst quickly and easily on their own. 57

58. Miliaria rubra Miliaria rubra occurs deeper in the skin than miliaria crystalline, but still within the outer epidermis layer . The rash appears as clusters of tiny red blisters that often cause itchiness and a prickly feeling. These blisters usually develop in areas where clothes rub against the skin, sometimes in several areas at once. The rash may occur within days of exposure to a hot and humid environment. However, it quite often doesn't appear for weeks or even months . In most cases, the rash will clear up on its own within a few days after the sweating stops. 58

59. Miliaria profunda Miliaria profunda develops when the blocked sweat glands are located deeper again, in the middle layer (dermis). This rare type of prickly heat usually tends to occur in people who live in hot environments and have previously had miliaria rubra . The blisters are bigger, deeper and more uncomfortable than those seen in the other types of prickly heat. Symptoms of miliaria profunda last for several weeks, as this is how long it takes for natural growth of the sweat glands to clear the blockage. 59

60. causes Hot weather, particularly alongside humidity, is the most common trigger for prickly heat rash. When bodies sweat more than usual, glands become overwhelmed .the sweat ducts may become blocked, trapping sweat deep underneath your skin It is not exactly clear how the sweat glands become blocked, but the process is thought to involve a type of bacteria  called “ Staphylococcus epidermidis . ” This bacteria normally lives on the skin without causing any harm. However, these bacteria can increase in numbers and produce a sticky substance . One theory is that this substance combines with dead skin cells and excess sweat to cause blockages in sweat glands. In young babies, the sweat glands aren't fully developed, which makes them more prone to becoming blocked in hot environments. 60

61. Signs and symptoms A red and slightly swollen rash; Tiny red spots and blisters; Itchiness; A prickly feeling where the rash is ; Reduced tolerance to heat, and; Decreased sweating from the rash area. 61

62. treatment Most heat rash resolves without treatment, often within a day of changing to a cooler environment . Even though the sweat glands may take a week or two to be repaired , if there is not an excessive demand placed on the body for cooling, then the rash will clear quickly. Remain in a cool environment e.g. air conditioning, or close to a fan, and allow for adequate ventilation of the skin. Take cool showers or baths , several times a day, and always after exercise or heat exposure. Always pat dry the skin with a towel, do not rub vigorously. 62

63. Use cool packs on affected areas (but not for longer than 20 minutes per hour). Wear loose, light fitting, soft clothes. Avoid clothing that traps heat or moisture . Avoid skin to skin contact elsewhere by placing a soft , clean washcloth or other material between skin folds . Always wear a sunscreen , as sunburn will aggravate heat rash, but use an alcohol based or evaporative based sunscreen . Do not apply after-sun moisturisers to the affected area. 63

64. Pinetarsol shower gel :may give some relief, and is useful for cleansing skin which may be irritated by normal soaps/washes. It is also very helpful at maintaining the Ph of the skin at 5.7, minimising secondary infection of the rash area/damaged sweat glands. 64 MARKETED PRODUCTS

65. Prickly heat solutions : These may be helpful if the patient is going to continue to be exposed to heat. Once heat rash is present, the sweat glands in that area are ineffective, so artificial cooling of the area (other than swimming , showers etc ) is useful. Cooling lotions such as Calamine lotion may be helpful, but not necessarily any more than evaporative cooling of water from the skin. Menthol in lotions has a swift cooling effect. It is temporary, but good for calming children. Some prickly heat lotions are alcohol based . The alcohol evaporates, giving a cooling effect immediately, and leaves less residue on the skin than water based lotions. They should not sting, but use should be discontinued if they do . Cortisone creams : are very useful in relieving heat rash symptoms such as itch and redness. 65 CALAMINE LOTION ALCOHOL BASED LOTION MENTHOL BASED LOTION

66. Thank you 66