earths_oceans.presentation about water on earth

yhapetznovala 14 views 73 slides Oct 09, 2024
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About This Presentation

earth science


Slide Content

The World’s OceansThe World’s Oceans

71% of the Earth’s surface is covered 71% of the Earth’s surface is covered
by ocean water.by ocean water.

The oceans contain 97% of the The oceans contain 97% of the
earth’s water.earth’s water.

All the oceans and seas are actually All the oceans and seas are actually
one continuous body of water.one continuous body of water.

OceansOceans

The oceans are the Atlantic, Pacific, The oceans are the Atlantic, Pacific,
Indian. Arctic and Southern.Indian. Arctic and Southern.

The Pacific Ocean is the largest The Pacific Ocean is the largest
ocean.ocean.

The area and volume of the Pacific The area and volume of the Pacific
Ocean are greater than the Atlantic Ocean are greater than the Atlantic
and Indian combined.and Indian combined.

SeasSeas

A sea is a part of an ocean that is A sea is a part of an ocean that is
nearly surrounded by water.nearly surrounded by water.

The Mediterranean, Arctic and Black The Mediterranean, Arctic and Black
Sea are really part of the Atlantic Sea are really part of the Atlantic
Ocean.Ocean.

Water CycleWater Cycle

The sun’s rays heat The sun’s rays heat
the surface of the the surface of the
ocean.ocean.

The heat causes the The heat causes the
water to evaporate.water to evaporate.

The evaporating water The evaporating water
(clean, fresh water) (clean, fresh water)
enters the atmosphere enters the atmosphere
as water vapor.as water vapor.

The salt remains The salt remains
behind.behind.

Water CycleWater Cycle

Winds carry water Winds carry water
vapor over land.vapor over land.

Some of the water Some of the water
vapor condenses to vapor condenses to
form clouds.form clouds.

The water in the The water in the
clouds falls as clouds falls as
precipitation.precipitation.

Water CycleWater Cycle

Some of this water Some of this water
runs into rivers and runs into rivers and
streams which flow streams which flow
back into the back into the
oceans.oceans.

Some of the water Some of the water
seeps into the soil seeps into the soil
and rocks become and rocks become
part of the part of the
groundwater.groundwater.

Properties of Ocean WaterProperties of Ocean Water

Ocean water is a mixture of gases Ocean water is a mixture of gases
and solids dissolved in pure water.and solids dissolved in pure water.

Oceanographers believe oceans Oceanographers believe oceans
contain all the natural elements on contain all the natural elements on
Earth.Earth.

85 of 90 have been found in the 85 of 90 have been found in the
ocean.ocean.

Major Elements in the OceanMajor Elements in the Ocean

Ocean water is 96% pure water.Ocean water is 96% pure water.

Chlorine (1.9) and sodium (1.1) Chlorine (1.9) and sodium (1.1)
make up the next largest make up the next largest
concentration of elements.concentration of elements.

Sodium chloride is table salt.Sodium chloride is table salt.

SalinitySalinity

Salinity describes the amount of Salinity describes the amount of
dissolved water in the ocean.dissolved water in the ocean.

Salinity is expressed in parts per Salinity is expressed in parts per
thousand.thousand.

The salinity level of the ocean is The salinity level of the ocean is
expressed in parts per thousand. expressed in parts per thousand.

The average salinity of ocean is 35 The average salinity of ocean is 35
parts per thousand.parts per thousand.

Sources of Salt in the OceanSources of Salt in the Ocean

When volcanoes erupt, rock When volcanoes erupt, rock
materials and gases, such as materials and gases, such as
chlorine, spew forth.chlorine, spew forth.

As rivers, streams and glaciers move As rivers, streams and glaciers move
over rock and soil, they dissolve over rock and soil, they dissolve
salts, such as magnesium, sodium salts, such as magnesium, sodium
and potassium, in them.and potassium, in them.

As waves pound the shoreline, they As waves pound the shoreline, they
dissolve salts from the rocks.dissolve salts from the rocks.

Salinity LevelsSalinity Levels

The salinity is lower in areas where freshwater The salinity is lower in areas where freshwater
rivers run into the ocean. Salinity levels are also rivers run into the ocean. Salinity levels are also
affected by animals such as clams and oysters affected by animals such as clams and oysters
that use calcium salts to build their shells. They that use calcium salts to build their shells. They
remove salt from the water.remove salt from the water.

In warm ocean areas where there is little rainfall In warm ocean areas where there is little rainfall
and much evaporation, the amount of dissolved and much evaporation, the amount of dissolved
salts is much greater. In polar regions, the salts is much greater. In polar regions, the
salinity levels are high because temperatures are salinity levels are high because temperatures are
cold enough for ocean water to freeze. Pure water cold enough for ocean water to freeze. Pure water
is removed and salts are left behind.is removed and salts are left behind.

Gases in Ocean WaterGases in Ocean Water

The most abundant gases in ocean The most abundant gases in ocean
water are nitrogen, carbon dioxide water are nitrogen, carbon dioxide
and oxygen.and oxygen.

The amounts of these elements vary The amounts of these elements vary
with depth. They are more abundant with depth. They are more abundant
at the ocean’s surface where sunlight at the ocean’s surface where sunlight
causes more plant life.causes more plant life.

Temperature of Ocean WaterTemperature of Ocean Water

Warm water holds less dissolved gas Warm water holds less dissolved gas
than cold water.than cold water.

When ocean water is cold, like in When ocean water is cold, like in
polar regions, it sinks and carries polar regions, it sinks and carries
oxygen rich water to the ocean oxygen rich water to the ocean
depths.depths.

As a result, fish and other animals As a result, fish and other animals
can live in deep parts of the ocean.can live in deep parts of the ocean.

Temperature of Ocean WaterTemperature of Ocean Water

Sun is the major Sun is the major
source of heat for source of heat for
the ocean.the ocean.

Motions of the Motions of the
ocean, such as ocean, such as
waves and waves and
currents, mix the currents, mix the
surface water and surface water and
transfer the heat transfer the heat
downward.downward.

Surface ZoneSurface Zone

The zone where the water is mixed by The zone where the water is mixed by
waves and currents is called the surface waves and currents is called the surface
zone.zone.

The surface zone extends 100-400 meters The surface zone extends 100-400 meters
downward.downward.

The temperature remains constant with The temperature remains constant with
depth.depth.

Temperature in a surface zone changes Temperature in a surface zone changes
due to seasons and locations.due to seasons and locations.

ThermoclineThermocline

The zone of rapid temperature change is The zone of rapid temperature change is
called the thermocline. called the thermocline.

The thermocline does not occur at a The thermocline does not occur at a
certain depth.certain depth.

The season and flow of ocean currents The season and flow of ocean currents
alter the depth of the thermocline.alter the depth of the thermocline.

The thermocline exists because warm, The thermocline exists because warm,
surface water does not mix easily with surface water does not mix easily with
colder, denser water.colder, denser water.

Deep ZoneDeep Zone

The thermocline forms a transition The thermocline forms a transition
between the surface zone and the between the surface zone and the
deep zone.deep zone.

The deep zone is an area of The deep zone is an area of
extremely cold water that extends extremely cold water that extends
from the bottom of the thermocline from the bottom of the thermocline
to depths of 4000 meters or more.to depths of 4000 meters or more.

Deep ZoneDeep Zone

Within the deep zone, temperatures Within the deep zone, temperatures
decrease only slightly.decrease only slightly.

At depths greater than 1500 meters, At depths greater than 1500 meters,
the temperature is about 4 degrees the temperature is about 4 degrees
C.C.

The three ocean zones are not found The three ocean zones are not found
in the polar (Arctic and Antarctica) in the polar (Arctic and Antarctica)
regions since the surface waters are regions since the surface waters are
always cold.always cold.

The Ocean FloorThe Ocean Floor

The topography of the ocean floor is The topography of the ocean floor is
different from the topography of the different from the topography of the
continentscontinents

The Ocean FloorThe Ocean Floor

The ocean floor has higher mountains, The ocean floor has higher mountains,
deeper canyons, and larger flatter plains. deeper canyons, and larger flatter plains.
Earthquakes occur more often.Earthquakes occur more often.

The rocks are very different.The rocks are very different.

The crust is thinner.The crust is thinner.

Edges of the ContinentsEdges of the Continents

The shoreline is a boundary between The shoreline is a boundary between
where the land and the ocean meet.where the land and the ocean meet.

The area where the underwater edge The area where the underwater edge
meets of a continent meets the ocean floor meets of a continent meets the ocean floor
is called a continental margin.is called a continental margin.

Continental MarginContinental Margin

The area where the underwater edge The area where the underwater edge
of a continent meets the ocean floor of a continent meets the ocean floor
is called a continental margin.is called a continental margin.

A continental margin consists of a A continental margin consists of a
continental shelf, a continental slope continental shelf, a continental slope
and a continental rise.and a continental rise.

Continental ShelfContinental Shelf

The flat part of a continental margin The flat part of a continental margin
that is covered by shallow ocean that is covered by shallow ocean
water is called a continental shelf.water is called a continental shelf.

A continental shelf slopes gently A continental shelf slopes gently
from the shoreline.from the shoreline.

The width of the continental shelf The width of the continental shelf
varies.varies.

Large mineral, oil and natural gas Large mineral, oil and natural gas
deposits are found here.deposits are found here.

Continental SlopeContinental Slope

At the edge of the continental shelf, At the edge of the continental shelf,
the ocean floor plunges steeply 4 to the ocean floor plunges steeply 4 to
5 kilometers.5 kilometers.

A continental slope marks the A continental slope marks the
boundary between the crust of the boundary between the crust of the
continent and the crust of the ocean continent and the crust of the ocean
floor.floor.

Continental RiseContinental Rise

Separating a continental slope from Separating a continental slope from
the ocean floor is a continental rise.the ocean floor is a continental rise.

A continental rise is made of large A continental rise is made of large
amount of sediments, rocks, plants amount of sediments, rocks, plants
and animals. and animals.

Sometimes the sediments are carried Sometimes the sediments are carried
down the slope in masses of flowing down the slope in masses of flowing
water called turbidity currents, like water called turbidity currents, like
an underwater avalanche.an underwater avalanche.

Submarine CanyonsSubmarine Canyons

In many areas, submarine canyons In many areas, submarine canyons
cut through a continental shelf and cut through a continental shelf and
slope.slope.

They are deep, V-shaped valleys that They are deep, V-shaped valleys that
have been cut in the rock, possibly have been cut in the rock, possibly
by turbidity currents.by turbidity currents.

The Monterey Submarine The Monterey Submarine
Canyon(2000 meters) is deeper than Canyon(2000 meters) is deeper than
the Grand Canyon.the Grand Canyon.

Abyssal PlainsAbyssal Plains

Large, flat areas on the ocean floor Large, flat areas on the ocean floor
are called abyssal plains.are called abyssal plains.

The abyssal plains are larger in the The abyssal plains are larger in the
Atlantic and Indian than in the Pacific Atlantic and Indian than in the Pacific
due to the deposition of sediments due to the deposition of sediments
by large rivers.by large rivers.

The Pacific Ocean has large cracks The Pacific Ocean has large cracks
that trap sediments and result in that trap sediments and result in
smaller abyssal plains.smaller abyssal plains.

Abyssal PlainsAbyssal Plains

Abyssal plains close to the continent Abyssal plains close to the continent
are made of mud, sand and silt.are made of mud, sand and silt.

Farther out on the abyssal plains, Farther out on the abyssal plains,
some of them contain the remains of some of them contain the remains of
tiny organisms that form ooze.tiny organisms that form ooze.

Where ocean life is not abundant, Where ocean life is not abundant,
the floor of the ocean is covered with the floor of the ocean is covered with
red clayred clay

Seamounts and GuyotsSeamounts and Guyots

Seamounts are underwater volcanic Seamounts are underwater volcanic
mountains that rise more than 100 meters mountains that rise more than 100 meters
above the ocean floor. Most have been above the ocean floor. Most have been
found in the Pacific Ocean.found in the Pacific Ocean.

Some seamounts reach above the surface Some seamounts reach above the surface
of the water to form islands, like the of the water to form islands, like the
Azores in the Atlantic and the Hawaiian Azores in the Atlantic and the Hawaiian
islands in the Pacific.islands in the Pacific.

Guyots are flat-topped seamounts.Guyots are flat-topped seamounts.

TrenchesTrenches

Trenches are the deepest parts of Trenches are the deepest parts of
the ocean found along the edge of the ocean found along the edge of
the ocean floor.the ocean floor.

The Mariana Trench in the Pacific The Mariana Trench in the Pacific
Ocean contains the deepest spot Ocean contains the deepest spot
(1100 meters) on Earth known as (1100 meters) on Earth known as
Challenger Deep.Challenger Deep.

Midocean RidgesMidocean Ridges

The midocean ridges form an almost The midocean ridges form an almost
continuous mountain belt that continuous mountain belt that
extends from the Arctic Ocean down extends from the Arctic Ocean down
through the middle of the Atlantic through the middle of the Atlantic
Ocean around Africa into the Indian Ocean around Africa into the Indian
Ocean and across the Pacific Ocean.Ocean and across the Pacific Ocean.

In the Atlantic it is called the mid-In the Atlantic it is called the mid-
Atlantic Ridge and in the Pacific, the Atlantic Ridge and in the Pacific, the
Pacific-Antarctica Ridge.Pacific-Antarctica Ridge.

Formation of Midocean RidgesFormation of Midocean Ridges

Mountain ranges on land are formed Mountain ranges on land are formed
when the Earth’s crust folds and is when the Earth’s crust folds and is
squeezed together.squeezed together.

Midocean ridges are areas where Midocean ridges are areas where
molten material from deep within the molten material from deep within the
Earth flows up to the surface and Earth flows up to the surface and
cools and forms new crust.cools and forms new crust.

RiftsRifts

Running along the middle of the Running along the middle of the
midocean ridges between the rows of midocean ridges between the rows of
parallel mountains are deep crevices parallel mountains are deep crevices
or rifts.or rifts.

Rifts are areas of great earthquake Rifts are areas of great earthquake
and volcanic activity.and volcanic activity.

ReefsReefs

Surrounding volcanic islands in Surrounding volcanic islands in
tropical waters are large masses and tropical waters are large masses and
ridges of limestone rock, known as ridges of limestone rock, known as
coral reefs.coral reefs.

The limestone structures contain the The limestone structures contain the
shells of animals. These animals shells of animals. These animals
cannot exist in water cooler than 18 cannot exist in water cooler than 18
degrees C and deeper than 55 degrees C and deeper than 55
meters.meters.

Types of Coral ReefsTypes of Coral Reefs

Fringing reefsFringing reefs

Barrier reefsBarrier reefs

AtollAtoll

Fringing ReefsFringing Reefs

Fringing reefs are coral reefs that Fringing reefs are coral reefs that
touch the shoreline of a volcanic touch the shoreline of a volcanic
island.island.

Fringing reefs are usually less than Fringing reefs are usually less than
30 meters.30 meters.

Barrier ReefsBarrier Reefs

Barrier reefs are separated from the Barrier reefs are separated from the
shore by an area of shallow water shore by an area of shallow water
called a lagoon. called a lagoon.

Barrier reefs are usually larger than Barrier reefs are usually larger than
fringing reefs and surround islands fringing reefs and surround islands
that are more submerged.that are more submerged.

The largest barrier reef is the Great The largest barrier reef is the Great
Barrier Reef of Australia. It is 23oo Barrier Reef of Australia. It is 23oo
km long and 320 km wide.km long and 320 km wide.

AtollAtoll

An atoll is a ring of coral reefs that An atoll is a ring of coral reefs that
that surround an island that has sunk that surround an island that has sunk
beneath the surface of the ocean.beneath the surface of the ocean.

Ocean Life ZonesOcean Life Zones

Intertidal Zone (Splash Zone)Intertidal Zone (Splash Zone)

Neritic Zone (Continental Shelf)Neritic Zone (Continental Shelf)

Open Sea Zone –Open Sea Zone –

Bathyal (Continental Slope) Bathyal (Continental Slope)

Abyssal (Ocean floor)Abyssal (Ocean floor)

Ocean Life ZonesOcean Life Zones

The plant and animal life in the The plant and animal life in the
ocean is affected by several factors.ocean is affected by several factors.

One factor is the amount of sunlight One factor is the amount of sunlight
that penetrates the ocean.that penetrates the ocean.

Another factor is the temperature of Another factor is the temperature of
the ocean water.the ocean water.

Water pressure is also a factor.Water pressure is also a factor.

Major Groups of Ocean LifeMajor Groups of Ocean Life

Plants and animals in the ocean are Plants and animals in the ocean are
classified into three major groups classified into three major groups
based on their habits and the depth based on their habits and the depth
of the water in which they live.of the water in which they live.

The three major groups are The three major groups are
plankton, nekton and benthos.plankton, nekton and benthos.

PlanktonPlankton

Plankton float at or near the surface Plankton float at or near the surface
where sunlight can penetrate.where sunlight can penetrate.

Most of the plankton are very small, Most of the plankton are very small,
such as algae.such as algae.

These organisms drift with the These organisms drift with the
currents or tides.currents or tides.

Plankton are the main food for many Plankton are the main food for many
larger organisms. They account for larger organisms. They account for
most of the organisms in the ocean.most of the organisms in the ocean.

NektonNekton

Whales , seals , dolphins, squid Whales , seals , dolphins, squid
octopuses, barracuda and other fish octopuses, barracuda and other fish
are all nekton.are all nekton.

Nekton are free-swimming organisms Nekton are free-swimming organisms
that feed on other nekton as well as that feed on other nekton as well as
on plankton.on plankton.

Many have adaptations enabling Many have adaptations enabling
them to function at depths that have them to function at depths that have
great pressure and no light.great pressure and no light.

BenthosBenthos

Organisms that live on the ocean Organisms that live on the ocean
floor are benthos.floor are benthos.

The forms of these animals include The forms of these animals include
crustaceans and shell fish.crustaceans and shell fish.

The deep bottom environments are The deep bottom environments are
sparsely populated with benthos.sparsely populated with benthos.

Some benthos are plants that live on Some benthos are plants that live on
the ocean floor in shallow waters the ocean floor in shallow waters
where sun can penetrate.where sun can penetrate.

Ocean Life ZonesOcean Life Zones

The classification of the ocean into The classification of the ocean into
life zones is based on the conditions life zones is based on the conditions
in the ocean. These conditions vary in the ocean. These conditions vary
widely.widely.

The classification includes the The classification includes the
intertidal zone, the neritic zone and intertidal zone, the neritic zone and
open-ocean zones.open-ocean zones.

Intertidal (Splash) ZoneIntertidal (Splash) Zone

This region is the most changeable in This region is the most changeable in
the ocean.the ocean.

Anemones, crabs, clams, mussels Anemones, crabs, clams, mussels
and plants such as seaweed live and plants such as seaweed live
here.here.

They must be able to exist without They must be able to exist without
water for periods of time.water for periods of time.

They must be able to anchor to keep They must be able to anchor to keep
from being washed out to sea.from being washed out to sea.

Neritic ( Shelf) ZoneNeritic ( Shelf) Zone

This zone extends to a depth of 200 This zone extends to a depth of 200
meters and receives plenty of meters and receives plenty of
sunlight.sunlight.

The water pressure is low and the The water pressure is low and the
temperature is constant.temperature is constant.

This zone can support plankton, This zone can support plankton,
nekton and benthos.nekton and benthos.

Marine life is most abundant here.Marine life is most abundant here.

Open Ocean ZonesOpen Ocean Zones

There are two open-ocean There are two open-ocean
zones:bathyal and abyssalzones:bathyal and abyssal

Bathyal (Slope)Bathyal (Slope)

The bathyal zone begins at the The bathyal zone begins at the
continental slope and extends down continental slope and extends down
about 2000 meters.about 2000 meters.

Sunlight cannot penetrate the Sunlight cannot penetrate the
bottom of this zone and plants do bottom of this zone and plants do
not grow at the bottom.not grow at the bottom.

Many forms of nekton, such as squid, Many forms of nekton, such as squid,
octopus and large whales live in this octopus and large whales live in this
zone.zone.

Abyssal (Ocean Floor) ZoneAbyssal (Ocean Floor) Zone

At a depth of about 2000 meters, the At a depth of about 2000 meters, the
abyssal zone begins. abyssal zone begins.

The abyssal zone extends to a depth of The abyssal zone extends to a depth of
6000 meters.6000 meters.

This zone covers the large flat plains of This zone covers the large flat plains of
the ocean. No sunlight can penetrate and the ocean. No sunlight can penetrate and
food is scarce. The water pressure is food is scarce. The water pressure is
great.great.

Most of the animals here are small.Most of the animals here are small.

Some make their own light.Some make their own light.

Studying the Ocean FloorStudying the Ocean Floor

In 1872, the first expedition to explore the In 1872, the first expedition to explore the
ocean began when the ocean began when the Challenger Challenger sailed sailed
from England.from England.

Scientists used wire to measure the ocean Scientists used wire to measure the ocean
depth.depth.

Scientists aboard used nets to collect Scientists aboard used nets to collect
animals and plants from the ocean floor.animals and plants from the ocean floor.

Special thermometers measured the Special thermometers measured the
temperature. Samples of water were temperature. Samples of water were
collected.collected.

Present OceanographersPresent Oceanographers

Today oceanographers have modern Today oceanographers have modern
instruments.instruments.

Underwater cameras provide pictures Underwater cameras provide pictures
of the ocean floor. Corers bring up of the ocean floor. Corers bring up
samples of med and sand from the samples of med and sand from the
ocean bottom. ocean bottom.

Bathyspheres, bathscaphs and other Bathyspheres, bathscaphs and other
submersibles are able to dive deep submersibles are able to dive deep
under the surface to exploreunder the surface to explore

Mapping the Ocean FloorMapping the Ocean Floor

One of the most important goals is to One of the most important goals is to
map the ocean floor. This is done by map the ocean floor. This is done by
indirect methods such as echo indirect methods such as echo
sounding, radar, sonar and sounding, radar, sonar and
seismographic surveys.seismographic surveys.

Echo SoundingsEcho Soundings

All of these methods are based on the All of these methods are based on the
same principles. Energy waves are sent same principles. Energy waves are sent
down to the floor are reflected and return down to the floor are reflected and return
to the surface, where they are recorded.to the surface, where they are recorded.

Knowing the speed of sound, 1500 m per Knowing the speed of sound, 1500 m per
second, oceanographers can determine second, oceanographers can determine
the depth.the depth.

The most complete picture was gathered The most complete picture was gathered
from information from a satellite, the from information from a satellite, the
SeasatSeasat, launched in 1978, launched in 1978

Motions of the OceansMotions of the Oceans

Ocean water never stops moving. Ocean water never stops moving.

The three basic motions of the ocean The three basic motions of the ocean
are : the up and down movement of are : the up and down movement of
the waves. The steady movement of the waves. The steady movement of
ocean currents and the rise and fall ocean currents and the rise and fall
of the ocean tides.of the ocean tides.

WavesWaves

Waves are pulses of energy that Waves are pulses of energy that
move through the ocean.move through the ocean.

Waves are set in motion by winds, Waves are set in motion by winds,
earthquakes and the gravitational earthquakes and the gravitational
pull of the moon.pull of the moon.

The most common source of wave The most common source of wave
movement is the wind blowing across movement is the wind blowing across
the surface.the surface.

Movement of WavesMovement of Waves

The water in a wave is not moving forward The water in a wave is not moving forward
at all. Only the energy moves forward at all. Only the energy moves forward
through the water producing one wave through the water producing one wave
after another.after another.

The energy is passed from particle to The energy is passed from particle to
particle. It is also passed downward. particle. It is also passed downward.
With increasing depth, the motion of the With increasing depth, the motion of the
particles decrease. At a certain depth the particles decrease. At a certain depth the
motion stops. In deep water, there are no motion stops. In deep water, there are no
waves except those caused by tides and waves except those caused by tides and
earthquakes.earthquakes.

Height of the WavesHeight of the Waves

Three factors affect the height of Three factors affect the height of
waves: wind speed, the length of waves: wind speed, the length of
time the wind blows and the distance time the wind blows and the distance
the wind blows over the water.the wind blows over the water.

As each of these factors increases, As each of these factors increases,
the height of the wave increases.the height of the wave increases.

Wave CharacteristicsWave Characteristics

The point of the wave is called the crest.The point of the wave is called the crest.

The lowest point of the wave is called the The lowest point of the wave is called the
trough.trough.

The horizontal distance between two The horizontal distance between two
consecutive crests or troughs is the consecutive crests or troughs is the
wavelength.wavelength.

The vertical distance between a crest and The vertical distance between a crest and
a trough is called the wave height.a trough is called the wave height.

Wave Period and FrequencyWave Period and Frequency

The amount of time it takes The amount of time it takes
consecutive crests or troughs to pass consecutive crests or troughs to pass
is called the wave period.is called the wave period.

The number of crests or troughs The number of crests or troughs
passing a given point in a certain passing a given point in a certain
wave period is called the wave wave period is called the wave
frequency.frequency.

As wave frequency increases, wave As wave frequency increases, wave
length decreases.length decreases.

SwellsSwells

Waves stay the same distant apart Waves stay the same distant apart
out in the open ocean. The out in the open ocean. The
wavelength is constant. These wavelength is constant. These
waves are called swells.waves are called swells.

SurfSurf

Waves change as they near the Waves change as they near the
shore. They slow down and get shore. They slow down and get
closer together. Their wavelength closer together. Their wavelength
decreases and their increase until decreases and their increase until
they crash forward as breakers. This they crash forward as breakers. This
is called the surf.is called the surf.

UndertowUndertow

The water then flows back toward The water then flows back toward
the ocean carrying bits of seaweeed, the ocean carrying bits of seaweeed,
sand and pebbles. The retreating sand and pebbles. The retreating
water is called an undertow.water is called an undertow.

TsunamisTsunamis

Some ocean waves are caused by Some ocean waves are caused by
earthquakes.earthquakes.

Tsunamis have very long Tsunamis have very long
wavelengths and are very deep.wavelengths and are very deep.

They carry a huge amount of energy They carry a huge amount of energy
Which is concentrated in much less Which is concentrated in much less
water as it nears the shore.water as it nears the shore.

Tsunamis reach heights of 35 meters Tsunamis reach heights of 35 meters
(an average 10-story building).(an average 10-story building).

CurrentsCurrents

Water below the surface moves in Water below the surface moves in
streams called currents.streams called currents.

Currents are caused by two factors: Currents are caused by two factors:
wind patterns and differences in wind patterns and differences in
water density.water density.

Surface CurrentsSurface Currents

Currents caused mainly by wind Currents caused mainly by wind
patterns are called surface currents. patterns are called surface currents.
These currents have a depth of These currents have a depth of
several hundred meters.several hundred meters.

The temperature of a current The temperature of a current
depends on where it originated, depends on where it originated,
making it either warm or cold.making it either warm or cold.

Long-Distance CurrentsLong-Distance Currents

Surface currents that travel Surface currents that travel
thousands of kilometers are called thousands of kilometers are called
long-distance currents, such as the long-distance currents, such as the
Gulf Steam.Gulf Steam.

The Gulf Stream carries warm water The Gulf Stream carries warm water
from the southern tip of Florida north from the southern tip of Florida north
along the eastern coast of the United along the eastern coast of the United
States moving at speeds of 1.5 States moving at speeds of 1.5
meters per second.meters per second.

Continuous CurrentsContinuous Currents

All currents form a continuous All currents form a continuous
worldwide pattern of water worldwide pattern of water
circulation.circulation.

The water in each ocean moves in a The water in each ocean moves in a
large, almost circular pattern.large, almost circular pattern.

In the Northern Hemisphere, the In the Northern Hemisphere, the
currents move clockwise. currents move clockwise.

In the Southern hemisphere, the In the Southern hemisphere, the
currents move counterclockwise.currents move counterclockwise.

Short- Distance CurrentsShort- Distance Currents

Short distance currents are usually found Short distance currents are usually found
near a shoreline where the waves hit at an near a shoreline where the waves hit at an
angle.angle.

When the waves hit the shoreline, the When the waves hit the shoreline, the
water turns and produces currents that water turns and produces currents that
move parallel to the shoreline called move parallel to the shoreline called
longshore currents. Longshore currents longshore currents. Longshore currents
move large quantities of sand which move large quantities of sand which
deposit in sand bars.deposit in sand bars.

Rip CurrentRip Current

If the longshore current cuts an If the longshore current cuts an
opening in the sandbar the water will opening in the sandbar the water will
return to ocean in a powerful narrow return to ocean in a powerful narrow
flow called a rip current.flow called a rip current.

A rip current is a type of undertow.A rip current is a type of undertow.

Deep CurrentsDeep Currents

Deep currents are caused mainly by Deep currents are caused mainly by
differences in water density.differences in water density.

The cold, salty water, that is more The cold, salty water, that is more
dense, flowing from the polar regions dense, flowing from the polar regions
moves under the less dense water moves under the less dense water
away from the polar regions.away from the polar regions.

Most deep currents flow in the Most deep currents flow in the
opposite direction from surface opposite direction from surface
currents.currents.

UpwellingsUpwellings

The densest water on Earth lies off the coast of Antarctica.The densest water on Earth lies off the coast of Antarctica.

This water sinks to the ocean floor and flows north. As the This water sinks to the ocean floor and flows north. As the
Antarctic currents come close to land, the ocean floor rises, Antarctic currents come close to land, the ocean floor rises,
forcing these cold currents upward.forcing these cold currents upward.

These risings, called upwellings, carry rich food from the These risings, called upwellings, carry rich food from the
ocean floor that results in rich fishing grounds near Pocean floor that results in rich fishing grounds near PSpring Spring
and Neap Tidesand Neap Tides

Spring Tides, higher than normal high tides, are Spring Tides, higher than normal high tides, are
produced when the sun, Earth and moon line up or produced when the sun, Earth and moon line up or
new and full moon phases.new and full moon phases.

Neap tides, lower than normal high tides, are Neap tides, lower than normal high tides, are
produced when the sun, Earth and moon are at right produced when the sun, Earth and moon are at right
angles or first and last quarter moon phases.angles or first and last quarter moon phases.