Eco friendly textiles part-2

Eco friendly textiles

1. ECO-FRIENDLY TEXTILES PART-2 By Prof. (Dr.) Deepali Singhee Kolkata

2. Environmental Protection & Clean Technologies is a Universal Concern Today

3. What are Eco-textiles….

4. Going Green Not Harming the Environment Non-toxic/ Safe Eco-friendly product would involve: ● No damage to environment. ● No impact on human health. ● Conservation of natural resources (water/energy ). ● Use of toxic-free (organic) or recyclable raw materials. What does Eco-friendly mean?

5. Any textile product, which is Produced in eco-friendly manner and Processed under eco-friendly environment is known as Eco-Textiles

6. Eco-Textiles is also known as ● Sustainable Fashion ● Eco-Fashion ● Eco-Tech

7. A sustainable textile is one that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generation to meet their needs and desires Definition of Sustainability recommended by the World Commission on Environment & Development “ ”

8. ● Made from a Renewable Resource ● Have a Good Ecological Footprint ● N ot Use Any (or Little) Chemicals while Growing & Processing For a textile to be sustainable, it should:

9. ● P rocurement of raw materials does not create a negative impact on land & water resources (natural fibres ), or the adversely impact the fossil fuels resources (synthetic fibres ). ● Production considerations do not create adverse impact on sources of water and energy. ● Added chemicals do not affect the health of textile workers as well as consumers. ● The end-of-life of the textile product is smooth (biodegradable) and it allows reclamation of the infrastructure required to sustain further production. Factors that a Sustainable Textiles Must Fulfill:

10. From ‘Cradle to Grave’ To ‘Cradle to’ Cradle’ Cradle to grave  is used in reference to a firm's perspective on the environmental impact created by their products or activities from the beginning of its life cycle to its end or disposal. Cradle to cradle is a phrase invented by Walter R. Stahel in the 1970s and popularized by William McDonough and Michael Braungart . This framework seeks to create production techniques that are not just efficient but are essentially waste free. In cradle-to-cradle production, all material inputs and outputs are seen either as technical or biological nutrients. Technical nutrients can be recycled or reused with no loss of quality and biological nutrients composted or consumed. By contrast, cradle-to-grave refers to a company taking responsibility for the disposal of goods it has produced, but not necessarily putting products’ constituent components back into service .

11. Ways in which the Textile Industry can go Green…..

12. HOW CAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY GO GREEN? Using Renewable Resources that can be replenished easily and in a short time. 1

13. Following Fair Trade Practices 2 HOW CAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY GO GREEN?

14. Reducing Ecological Footprint or demand on natural resources like land & water.  3 Ecological footprint (EF) is a measure for the amount of productive land, sea (water) and natural resources one needs to produce the resources it consumes and to dispose of its waste. It is the measure of human demand on the Earth’s ecosystems HOW CAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY GO GREEN?

15. Reducing the Carbon Footprint by reducing/substituting chemicals required to grow/process the textile material. 4 A Carbon Footprint is measured in carbon dioxide equivalents and gives the total amount of greenhouse gases emitted. HOW CAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY GO GREEN?

16. Going Organic Using Sustainable Processing Methods Recycling / Upcycling Chemical Substitution Chemical Recovery Process Modification HOW CARBON FOOTPRINT CAN BE REDUCED? 1 2 3 a b c

17. Organic clothing is clothing made from materials raised or grown in compliance with organic agricultural standards - Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) GOING ORGANIC Reducing Carbon Footprint (a)

18. ● Comprises of minimum of 70% organic fibers . ● Fibres made through environmentally & socially responsible manufacturing . ● All chemical & auxiliaries used meet environmental & toxicological criteria . ● Dyes are either natural or are environmentally low impact dyes . ● Heavy metals or harmful chemicals have not been used in the dyeing. ● Accessories selected is in accordance with ecological aspects. ● A functional waste water treatment plant is involved in all wet-processing. ● All processes have complied with minimum social criteria & fair trade practices . 

19. BENEFITS OF ORGANIC TEXTILES Grow without any pesticides or chemical fertilizers and so have no impact on marine and aquatic life Biodegrade naturally over time Breathable fibers Added softness and drape Hypoallergenic Naturally anti­bacterial Helps to improve land , prevents water contamination and conserves bio-diversity

20. ORGANIC COTTON Highly Absorbent Non-Irritant Non-Allergic Without Pesticide / Fertilized No Health Hazard Fair Trade Free for Allergies Produced as per IVN BEST Guidelines Durable

21. ORGANIC WOOL Durable Absorbent More Elastic

22. OTHER ECO-FRIENDLY FIBRES

23. JUTE Silky Texture High Tensile Strength Heat & Flame Resistant

24. FLAX Cool & Dry to Touch Absorbent & Release Water Quickly Softer on Washing

25. HEMP Durable & UV- resitant Absorbent Hypo- Allegic

26. RAMIE Wrinkle Resistant 8 times Stronger than Cotton Resistant to Microbial Attack Harvested up to 6 Times in a Year Without the use of Pesticides or Herbicides

27. BAMBOO Silky Feel & Good Drape Wicks Moisture Resistant to Microbes

28. NETTLE Longest Bast Fibre High Tensile Strength Hollow -Natural Insulation Obtained from Brennessel Plant

29. PINEAPPLE Silky & High Luster High Tensile Strength Low Elongation

30. BANANA Absorbent High Tensile Strength Light Weight

31. SAMATOA/LOTUS Soft & Light Water Proof Wrinkle Free & Stain Resistant

32. COCONA Light Weight Stretchable Resistant to UV--Light

33. CORN Softness & Good Drape Resilience Flame Retardant

34. SOY SILK Soft & Silky Good Drape Good Option for Underwear & Bras

35. TENCEL / LYOCELL Absorbent & Breathable High Tensile Strength Shrink Resistant

36. ECO-FRIENDLY DYES

37. BIODEGRADABLE DYES LOW-IMPACT DYES AZO FREE DYES METAL FREE DYES ECO-FRENDLY DYES

38. LOW IMPACT DYES

39. NATURAL DYES? Natural dyes are colorants or pigments that are obtained from plant, animal or mineral sources with or without any chemical treatments Plant Sources Animal Sources Mineral Sources

40. Roots & Barks AL ROOTS MADDER ROOTS TURMERIC FUSTIC CATECHU LOGWOOD

41. Leaves BIRCH EUCALYPTUS WOAD CARROT TOPS HENNA INDIGO

42. Flowers TANSY DAHLIA CORAL JASMINE GOLDEN RODS FRENCH MARIGOLD HIBISCUS TESU GULMOHAR

43. Fruits and Berries MYROBOLAN POMEGRANATE ONION WALNUT ALMOND ANNATTO

44. Animal Origin TYRIAN PURPLE

45. Animal Origin KERMES COCHINEAL LAC

46. Animal Origin LITCHENS WEILD & MUSHROOMS

47. MINERAL Origin Orpimat Red Oxide Malachite Cinnabar Carbon Black

48. Herbal powder, vegetable powder, parsley vegetable powder, rosemary vegetable powder, brown mica oxide powder, yellow mica oxide powder MINERAL Origin

49. HISTORY OF NATURAL DYES In Egypt, mummies have been found wrapped in madder dyed cloth.

50. HISTORY OF NATURAL DYES It is well known that the green eye-shadow was also used by the Egyptian women and it came from lead, oxidized copper, ochre, ash, malachite, and chrysocolla (a blue-green copper ore) .

51. HISTORY OF NATURAL DYES It is well known that Egyptian women lined their eyes and eyebrows with Khol that is a dark-colored powder made of crushed antimony, burnt almonds, lead or any combination thereof Woman would apply khol, a black dye kept in a jar or pot, to line her eyes and eyebrows, using an "brush" or "pencil" made of a reed

52. HISTORY OF NATURAL DYES It is well known that the lipstick used by Cleopatra , the famous Egyptian queen came from the bixa tree.

53. ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES Obtained from Agro Renewable Resources are biodegradable.

54. Application of natural dyes has potential to earn carbon credit by reducing consumption of fossil fuel (petroleum) based synthetic dyes . ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES Carbon Credit is a permit that allows the holder to emit one ton of carbon dioxide. Credits are awarded to countries or groups that have reduced their green house gases below their emission quota. Carbon credits can be traded in the international market at their current market price. One carbon credit = one metric tonn of CO 2 / CO 2 equivalent gases Example -, if an environmentalist group plants enough trees to reduce emissions by one ton, the group will be awarded a credit. If a steel producer has an emissions quota of 10 tons, but is expecting to produce 11 tons, it could purchase this carbon credit from the environmental group.

55. ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES Some of its constituents are anti-allergens and safe for body contact

56. ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES Bleed but do not stain other fabrics, turmeric being an exception

57. ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES Natural Dyes from Agricultural Waste Waste rests of eucalyptus, aguaribay trees, sunflower seed shells, parsley, olive, laurel, and lemon trees Since only the leaves of the tobacco plants are harvested, stalks and other agricultural waste are transformed into vibrant, non-toxic dye

58. ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES Does not pollute as the synthetic dyes The Jian River flows red after being polluted with dye from an illegal workshop

59. The dye waste may become an ideal fertilizer for agricultural fields ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES Indigo waste used to irrigate the tomatoes The waste water pH it’s good for water lily plantation Waste from barks / leafs used in dyeing in Bali

60. ECO-FRIENDLY FABRICS

61. The Sanskrit word, ‘ ayur ’ means life and ‘ vastra ’ means cloth or dress. It is based on the Ayurvedic Principles of Medicine which believes that regular contact with cloth made from yarns infused with extracts of organic herbs and medicinal plants will cure metabolic disorders & promote healthy living

62. These herbal clothing ● Helps to restore balance within the body's systems ● Strengthens the immune system ● Helps in reducing the spread of diseases ● E xhibits anti-microbial & anti-bacterial properties

63. These herbal textiles are often used in making ● Garments used close to the skin ● Undergarments ● Towels ● Sleepwear ● Bed Coverings ● Mattresses ● Coir Mats ● Door Mats ● Carpets

64. The most effective time to wear Ayurvedic clothing is when the body is at rest – Sleep & Relaxation / Meditation

65. Ayurvastra are made from fibres like certified organic cotton, natural cotton, silk wool, coir, linen, jute, hemp, bamboo and their blends.

66. More than 200 herbs extracts can be mixed in the dye-bath while dyeing fabrics; hence they play a dual role in providing magical healing quality and imparting soothing colours

67. ● Diabetes can be controlled by a combination of the herbal dye ● S affron is believed to control Heart Diseases ● Fenugreek is said to control Cholesterol ● Fabrics dyed with curry leaves extract are beneficial in curing Arthritis ● Sandalwood, turmeric, aloevera , onion, chirayata & neem dyed fabrics can cure Skin Diseases ● Brazil wood, henna and Indian mulberry can be used as Blood Purifier ● Indian madder helps in Removing Blood Impurities ● Haritaki and indigo can be used for their Antiseptic Properties ● Amla can be used for its Anti-fungal, Anti-bacterial & Anti-septic Properties ● Chitosan , which show Antimicrobial Properties ● Castor oil helps in Maintaining Body Temperature

68. Textile wet processing adds maximum value to the textiles by improving its Aesthetics , Comfort and Functional properties. Reducing Carbon Footprint SUSTAINABLE TEXTILE PROCESSING The large amount of water used during the processing operations gets contaminated with unfixed dyes, chemicals & auxiliaries and is discharged as effluent. The cocktail of chemicals present makes it difficult to treat the effluent waste water or biodegrade it. This creates pollution problems and leads to increased demand for good-quality water for processing. (b)

69. Thus challenges in sustainability of textile wet processing operations mainly relate to the ● Water Consumption ● Energy ● Chemicals ● Discharge of Unexhausted Chemicals

70. To overcome these issues, a large number of sustainable practices has been implemented by various textile processing industries

71. By adopting Products & Appropriate Technology that are Energy Efficient Production C osts can be lowered and P rofits improved

72. Strategies for Waste Minimization 1. CHEMICAL SUBSTITUTION Chemical Substitute Acid (Mineral) Desizing Enzymatic Desizing Synthetic Detergents Soaps Sodium Acetate (Neutralizing of Scoured Goods) Soda Ash Ammonium Sulphate (pH Adjustment) Acetic Acid Gum Thickening Emulsion Thickening Acetic Acid (Oxidation of Vat Dyestuff) Sodium Bicarbonate

73. 2. CHEMICAL RECOVERY Water (through Treatment) Caustic Soda (from Mercerization using Recuperation) Sizing Ingredients (PVA, CMC from Desizing Bath) Reuse of Liquors ( Desized , Caustic Scour, Mercerized & Bleach) Strategies for Waste Minimization

74. 3. PROCESS MODIFICATION Use of Lower Liquor Ratios Use of Foam for Dyeing, Printing & Finishing Hot Mercerization Combined Desizing , Scouring & Bleaching Dyeing Cum Sizing of Denim Warp Single Stage Dyeing of Blended Fabrics Strategies for Waste Minimization

75. SOME ECO-FRIENDLY PROCESSES

76. ENZYME TECHNOLOGY 1

77. ● Enzyme Technology Bio-processing also offers the potential for new industrial processes that require less energy, less water and less effluent problems with effective results. Enzymatic Textile Processing (ETP) - Enzymatic desizing , enzymatic scouring, enzymatic bleaching, bio polishing and enzyme based softeners are few examples of bio-processing of textiles. ECO-FRIENDLY PREPARATORY PROCESSES

78. Fiber Treatment Enzymes Substrate Degree of Development Cotton Desizing Amylases Starch Available Scouring Pectinases Cotton fiber Available Bleaching Lacasses , Glucoseosidase Lignin, Glucose Emerging H 2 O 2 killer Peroxidases H 2 O 2 Available Bio-polishing Cellulases Cellulose Available Bio-stoning Celluloses Cellulose Available Soaping Special enzymes Reactive dye Emerging Wool Scouring Lipases Lanolin Emerging Anti-felting Special enzymes Wool fiber Emerging Silk Degumming Sericinases Sericin Emerging Jute Bleaching Xylanases Jute fiber mat Emerging ● They are proteins that act as bio-catalysts ● They are substrate selective ● They allow less energy & water consumption - no impact on environment ● They a re biodegradable and inherently non-hazardous

79. LOW WATER TECHNOLOGY 2

80. ● Less Water Technologies Low MLR, Foam and Microwave ECO-FRIENDLY DYEING PROCESSES

81. SUPER CRITICAL CO2 3

82. ECO-FRIENDLY DYEING PROCESSES ● Waterless Technologies such as Supercritical Carbon Oxide, Plasma & Nano Particle Technologies

83. ● DyeCoo has commercialized the first “waterless” dyeing machine using Supercritical CO 2 . ● Machines implemented on a production scale at factories in Thailand and Taiwan ● Nike and Adidas have supported this project & fabrics made from this process are marketed as AirDye and DryDye TM ● High capital investment & extended ROI ● Process carried out at 260- 280 bar; hence needs special design & safety ● Control devices required to monitor CO 2 conc in air ● Limited to PES dyeing ● No use of water ● CO 2 used is fully recovered & recycled ● No effluent discharge ● No need for drying ADVANTAGES LIMITATIONS

84. DIGITAL PRINTING 4

85. ADVANTAGES LIMITATIONS ● Machines speeds are slow (15 meters/m v/s 40 meters/m in rotary printing) ● High cost of inks ( now going down with increased consumption) ● High capital investment ● No need for engraving rollers or screens ● Extremely short delivery times (from sampling to production) ● No effect on effluent ● Huge savings in water ● Reduction in waste ● High quality products

86. EXAMPLES OF ECO-FRIENDLY PROCESSING

87. ● Selection of Sizes with Minimum Pollution Loads : Sizes from natural sources that are biodegradable. ECO-FRIENDLY SIZING ● Recovery of Synthetic Sizing Materials : Expensive polyvinyl alcohol and poly acrylics can be removed by simple treatment with hot water and recovered by ultra filtration. ● Reuse of Sizing Polymer : Recovered modified starch, polyvinyl alcohol and poly acrylics can be reused reducing the pollution load by 50%.

88. ● Use of Easily Degradable Organic Stabilizers in peroxide bleaching. ● Replacing Nonyl Phenol Ethoxylate Based Surfactants with fatty alcohol ethoxylates , fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, hydroxy mix under sulphates . ● Selection of Suitable Softeners and Preservatives : Using environmentally acceptable NAVDEECIDE D-12 instead of PCP and sodium silico -fluoride. ● Single-Bath Desizing & Scouring : Oxidative desizing using hydrogen peroxide with or without the addition of persulphate . ● Using Pad Steam (Batch) Systems to minimize the residual NaOH in waste water. ● Chlorine-free Bleaching: This involves the use of hydrogen peroxide (eco-friendly alternative to chlorine bleaching). ● Eco-bleach: Use of natural phosphates and silicates mixed in cow dung combined with sunlight to achieve whitening of natural fabrics. ECO-FRIENDLY SCOURING & BLEACHING

89. ● Avoiding Chemicals : Cu and Zn salts used as after-treatment agents, catalysts or reducing agents; chromium salts in dyeing with acid dyes; urea and its substitutes; halogenated organic carrier for dyeing with disperse dyes; sodium sulphide for dyeing with sulphur dyes; dye fixing agents with free formaldehyde ● Selecting More Efficient and Less Harmful Chemicals : Cation -active agents for the after treatment of reactive dyes; alkaline organic carbohydrate base reducing agent like hydrol in suphur dyeing. ● Cold or Low Temperature Dye Processes ● Foam Dyeing ● Solvent Dyeing ● Cationization for Salt-Free Dyeing ● High Fixation Reactive Dyes with Reduced Salt ● Dyeing in Ionic Liquids ● Super Critical CO 2 Fluid Dyeing ● Dyeing Using Ultrasound Technologies ● Right First Time (RFT) Dyeing ● Pad-Batch and Continuous Dyeing . ● Proper Storage of Dyes and accurate weighing ECO-FRIENDLY DYEING PROCESSES

90. ● Waste Water Recycling: Waste water recycling is the use of tertiary treated waste water in the dye-baths for irrigation purposes. It can save millions of gallons of water ECO-FRIENDLY DYEING PROCESSES

91. ● Dye-bath Reuse: Recycling the water used in dye-baths for subsequent baths (Standing Baths) helps in conserving is substantial and 10-50% of unexhausted dye can be recycled. ECO-FRIENDLY DYEING PROCESSES

92. ● Dry Finishes are generally considered environmentally preferable and consumer friendly as they are applied mechanically and use machinery and heat rather than chemicals. ● Wet Finishes , such as antimicrobial and stain-resistant can be beneficial to the sustainability of a garment, as they reduce the need for laundering, conserving water and energy and reducing the amount of chemicals released to the environment. ● Reducing the Levels of Released Formaldehyde by using modified N- methylol type reactant resins having low free as well as released formaldehyde or substituting 1/3 rd of such reactants with nitro alconol reactant modifier, the addition of formaldehyde acceptors ( carbohydrazide , glucols ) to the bath and the spraying of 5% solution of urea on the hot fabric as it comes out of the curing chamber. ECO-FRIENDLY FINISHING PROCESSES

93. ● Aqueous Acrylic Thickeners having low BOD used in place of the kerosene oil based thickeners for pigment printing. ● Ink-jet Printing: It is considered the most eco-friendly and efficient method of printing due to its lower water usage, water wastage and energy consumption (Dry-heat fixation). ECO-FRIENDLY PRINITNG PROCESSES

94. According to the Environmental Protection Agency an estimated 12.4 million tons of textiles were generated in 2008 Reducing Carbon Footprint RECYCLING / UPCYCLING (c)

95. Most of the clothing that is disposed of each year is still very wearable, but it is thrown out simply because it is out of style, old, or we are just tired of it. At least 50% of them are recyclable.

96. Textiles ending into Landfills

97. These sites pose a threat to local ground water supplies which gets contaminated and can be up to 200 times as toxic as raw sewage.

98. Recycling / Upcycling of textiles involves re-working of old textiles and updating them to match the prevailing fashion/styles thereby increasing the life of the cloth and eliminating the pressure on the farmlands to grow huge amount of cotton using chemicals.

99. Environmental Benefits Recovery & Recycling Reduces the Need for Landfill Space S ynthetic (man-made fibres ) products do not decompose Woollen garments produce methane gas on decomposing 1

100. Environmental Benefits Recovery & Recycling Reduces Pressure on Virgin Resources 2 By re-using existing fibres and textiles, pressure to produce more raw materials is reduced

101. Environmental Benefits Recovery & Recycling Results in Less Pollution & Energy Savings This saves on the energy used and pollution caused during manufacturing processes 3

102. If everyone in the UK bought one reclaimed woollen garment each year, it would save an average of 371 million gallons of water and 480 tonnes of chemical dyestuffs. Poncho made from reclaimed wool sweaters

103. Many Fashion Businesses are choosing to incorporate Recycled Fibres , Fabrics or Clothes in their collections.

104. Armani J eans developed new materials using 60% recycled wool and recycled cross dyed cotton Using Fabric Composed of Recycled Fibres WAYS TO RECYCLE FASHION

105. Example using unwanted factory surpluses, off-cuts or materials which would otherwise be thrown away. Recycling Textile Fabric ( Upcycling ) WAYS TO RECYCLE FASHION Some companies like From Somewhere use fabric waste generated during the manufacturing process or material that has been designated as unusable due to minor faults to create their collections.

106. FORTREL EcoSpun Soft & Warm Durable Weather Resistant Plastic bottles Bottles are chopped up into chips Chips are melted down & extruded into fiber Yarn is knit, dyed, sewn into product

107. Using Fabric Composed of Recycled Products WAYS TO RECYCLE FASHION Patagonia , North Face

108. Re-fashioning or repairing second hand clothing for a second life. Recycling or Customizing Clothing WAYS TO RECYCLE FASHION

109. Consumers can also contribute by recycling by re-styling existing clothes, swapping clothes with friends or choosing to invest in quality rather than quantity when buying clothes.

110. UPCYCLING

111. STRATEGIES FOR ECO-FRIENDLY PROCESSING & CLEAN PRODUCTION Drop a procedure or product in favor of dramatically improving the environmental situation. Reduce pollutant load (saving of water and energy) by bringing exhaustion and fixation of dyes close to 100%. Reuse of the dye-bath Recycling of the fibers (for natural it is limited but possible for synthetic fibers). AVOID REDUSE R ECYCLE REUSE

112. The Greenpeace DETOX Campaign….

113. In 1987, the Danish Company, NOVOTEX A/S was the first to introduce an eco-collection, ‘ Green Cotton ’ for which they were awarded the Environment Prize by the ECC.

114. Thus………

115. Today ecological and toxicity factors are gaining prime importance. Pollutants, allegan & carcinogens are now being severely restricted in the manufacturing of consumer goods sold all over the world.

116. Sustainable methods and techniques need to be adopted by textile industries in order to save

117. Let our progress be not synonymous with an assault on nature. Higher standards of living must be achieved but without depriving nature of its beauty, freshness and purity, which are essential to life.

118. Prof. (Dr.) Deepali Singhee Principal, J.D. Birla Institute, Kolkata [email protected]