Embroidery of Gujarat

The different types of embroideries of Gujarat, their motifs, designs and the way they do their decorations.

1. S u r f a c e D e s I g n P B L R E V I E W 1 EMBROIDERY

2. GUJRAT EMBROIDERY

3. There are not one or two, but up to 16 different types of embroideries known in Gujarat, each belonging to a different community. All of these communities have their own, unique style of embroidery, different motifs, patterns that give them a visual identity. Even a person’s social status can be identified through the embroidery he or she wears.

4. TYPES OF EMBROIDERY: Soof Kambira Kharek Neran Pakko abhala

5. SOOF Soof is the style that usually integrates various intricate geometrical patterns and designs. Generally, the patterns that are used in  soof embroidery are not at all pre-drawn on any stuff and thereby, the artist or workers primarily develop these elegant patterns of  soof embroidery.It has only one single stitch that formulated the whole design.

6. KAMIRA Kambira embroideries are done by the Harijan communities living on the Banni grassland tract, on the edge of The Great Rann . Kambira embroidery is a stepped running stitch style, with an end result similar to some Muslim architectural motifs. With a simple running stitch, which is interspersed at regular intervals with a small diamond shape which may or may not be filled. The styles are used mainly for quilting although there are other applications.

7. KHAREK Kharek Embroidery is an art practiced by the members belonging to the Sodha , Rajput and Megwar communities of Gujrat. The word ‘ kharek ’ literally means ‘fruit of the date palm.’The outlines of the designs are traced with double running stitches of black color. These are filled with stitches of satin thread. These filled portions resemble bars and are individually referred to as ‘ nehran ’ (river). Objects like triangles, small squares and other similar geometrical shapes are created by clustering these bars.

8. NERAN Neran embroidery has recently been singled out by Shrujan as a separate style. It was originally a stitch used in conjunction with Kharek , and Pakko embroideries. Neran literally means 'eyebrows', and are units of button hole stitch formed into a curved shape.

9. PAAKO Pakko Embroidery is practiced by the Sodha , Rajput and Megwar communities belonging to  Gujrat. The word ‘ pakko ’ literally means solid, referring to the dense stitches that are used. The embroidery work covers almost the whole area of the base cloth. The designs used in the Pakko Embroidery are created using free hand drawing. The outlines are created using a square chain stitch. The fillings are done using a denser variety of the buttonhole stitch with a slightly raised level. Commonly used motifs are peacocks, parrots, scorpions, elephants, milkmaids and flowers, done in a geometric fashion .

10. ABHALA Mirror work has been in vogue for centuries and is popularly known as “Sheesha” or “Abhala Bharat” embroidery. This is an art form in which mirrors of various shapes are fixed on to the fabric through embroidery. In recent times however, mirrors have been replaced by reflective luminescent metal pieces of different shapes and sizes, particularly on apparel. Mirror work  is used on various fabrics such as georgette, crepe, cotton, silk, chiffon and many more which are then turned into attractive apparel and accessories ranging from sarees, to cushion covers and belts.

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