Fabric grainline in garment construction

Fabric Facts :
-Importance of identifying fabric grain line for garment construction.
-fabric label: lengthwise grain, crosswise grain, selvage and bias
- Appreciate the importance of using correct fabric grain in garment construction for accurate and flattering shape projects.

1. Fabric Facts fabric Grainline

2. Lesson objectives: Identify and label the component of a fabric: lengthwise, crosswise, selvage and bias. (C) Orally demonstrate how to prepare the fabric before cutting in garment construction (P) Appreciate the importance of using correct fabric grain in garment construction for accurate and flattering shape projects. (A)

3. What is a Grain line ? Grain line is essentially the weave of the fabric: which direction the threads are running.

4. fabric Grain What is grain? All woven and knitted fabrics some nonwoven fabrics have direction, or grain. The grain is determined by the position of the yarns and fibers in the fabric. Woven fabrics are constructed by interlacing yarns at right angles at each other. There are three grains: straight grain, cross grain and true bias.

5. Lengthwise grain Straight grain, or lengthwise grain,  are the threads going parallel to the selvedge of the fabric - the uncut edges that are bound so that they do not unravel.  When fabric is cut at a shop, it is cut on the crossgrain . 

6. Crosswise grain crosswise grain are the  threads running the width of the fabric - from one selvedge to the other.  It is perpendicular to the straight grain.  The crosswise grain tends to be weaker than the lengthwise grain. The crosswise grain tends to have more stretch than the lengthwise grain. Therefore the crosswise grain is usually going around the body.

7. Selvage The selvage edges are the finished edges of fabric. It is parallel to the lengthwise grain.

8. Bias The bias runs diagonally across the fabric. The true bias forms a diagonal angle and is at an exact 45 degrees angle to the lengthwise and crosswise grain of the fabric. It has the highest degree of stretch of any woven fabric direction.

9. Importance of correct fabric grain fabrics that are not on grain tend to twist. we all have seen t-shirts that won’t hang straight on the line or jeans with seams that twist to the side. these are garments that are cut from fabric that does not have straight grain. A garment cut off grain the fabric will sag and pull slightly in the direction of the diagonal, marking for an unflattering finished garment. Therefore, straightening the edge of grain is very important, even if it’s a bit tedious, task to do before cutting out pieces.

10. The importance of fabric grainline and following it when sewing is because this is the pattern designer’s way of making sure that the fabric drapes well. Areas of the pattern set into darts or gathers will fall naturally when the lengthwise grainline is accurate. Dressmaking is like a form of sculpture, and the pattern is designed to fit the body. The correct grain ensures the fabric drapes and molds to the model’s body who wears the garment. Following these lines makes the garment fit well and look professional.

11. Finding the grain Pull out a thread from the snipped area. tug on it gently and pull the thread away from the fabric. this will cause some gathering as you push the fabric. once you’ve removed the thread, cut along the line that’s left by the space where the thread used to be.