Fabric structure and design

Some basic structure of woven fabric.

1. Fabric Structure and Design
1
Book References:
1.Understanding Textiles for a merchandizer by Engr. Shah Alimuzzaman
Belal
2.Grammerof Textile Design by H. Nisbet
3.Laboratory Practice in Knitting Technology by L. Kudriavan(Publisher: Mir
Publishers, Moscow)
4.Watson`s Textile Design and Colourby Z. Grosicki

2. Introduction
Fabric
Fabricisaflexibleplanar
substanceconstructedfrom
solutions,fibres,yarnsorfabrics
inanycombination.Textile
fabricscanbeproduceddirectly
fromwebsoffibresbybonding,
fusingorinterlockingtomake
non-wovenfabricsandfelts,but
theirphysicalPropertiestendto
restricttheirpotentialend-usage.
Themechanicalmanipulationof
yarnintofabricisthemost
versatilemethodofmanufacturing
textilefabricsforawiderangeof
end-uses.
2

3. Wovenfabricsarecomposedoflongitudinalorwarp
threadsandtransverseorweftthreads,Interlaced
withoneanotheraccordingtotheclassofstructure
andformofdesignthataredesired.
Accordingtoweavestructureswovenfabricsmaybe
convenientlydividedintotwoprincipalcategories,as
follows
1.Simple Structure
2.Compound structure
3

4. Features of simple structure:
1.The ends and picks are
interlaced with one another at
right angle.
2.Threads of each group are
respectively parallel to each
other.
3.Only one series of ends and
picks are used in the
construction.
4.Both the aspect of utility or
performance in a fabric and the
aspects of aesthetic apparel rely
on all the constituent threads.
Example: Plain, Twill, Satin.
4

5. Features of compound
structure:
1.More than one series of ends and
picks are used in the structure.
2.The body of the fabric such as ground
yarns determines some of the threads.
Some may be employed entirely for
ornamental purposes such as figuring
and face yarns.
3.Some threads may be not found in the
parallel formation one to another in
either plane and indeed there are many
pile surface construction in which some
threads may project out at right angles
to the general plane of the fabric.
Example: Extra warp/weft design, Pile
fabric, Seer sucker fabric, Towel etc.
5
Extra warp design fabric

6. Methods of fabric representation
A weave is the interlacing pattern of the warp and weft.
There are two ways of interlacement.
A. Warp overlap in which warp is above weft.
6
B. Weft overlap in which weft is above warp.

7. There are two practical methods of weave representation :
•Linear method
•Canvas method
7
Canvas Method Linear Method

8. Important Terms
Onerepeatofweave:Anumber
ofinterlacingscombinedtogetherin
bothdirectionproducesaunitofdesign
andonerepeatofweave.
Formulanumber:Anystructure
orinterlacementrepresentasasmall
fractionisknownasformulanumber.
Repeatnumberorrepeatsize
(R.S):No.ofwarpyarnandno.of
weftyarninarepeatisknownaswarp
repeatno.andweftrepeatno.
8

9. Weave plan:
Theweaveplanisthe
representationofthe
interlacementofwarpand
weftyarninthewoven
fabric.Ablankinasquare
indicatesthatawarpgoes
belowthecorresponding
weftandanycoloror‘X’
markinthesquare
indicatesthatthewarp
floatsabovetheweft.
9

10. Features of a design or weave plan
The vertical lines or space is represented as a warp.
The horizontal lines or space is represented as a weft.
One complete repeat should be shown on design paper.
Each square indicates an intersection of a warp and a
weft.
‘X’ mark or color represents warp over weft.
Blank square represents weft over warp.
# indicates starting point.
symbols indicates repeat unit.
10

11. Grain:
Grain refers to the geometry or position of warp yarns relative to
filling yarns in the fabric. A fabric that is on-grain has warp yarns
parallel to each other and perpendicular to the filling yarns that
move straight across the fabric. Lengthwise grain is parallel to the
warp yarns. Crosswise grain is parallel to the weft yarns. Fabrics
are almost always woven on-grain. Handling, finishing, or stress
due to yarn twist, weave or other fabric aspects may cause fabrics
to distort and Iose their on-grain characteristic. These fabrics are
off-grain. Fabric quality has increased significantly and it is rare to
find fabrics as badly off-grain.
There are two types of off-grain.
Skew:Skew occurs when the weft yarn is at an angle other than
90º to the warp.
Bow: Bow occurs when the weft yarns dip in the center of the
fabric.
11

12. Structure
Theorderofinterlacementofwarpandweftthreadsat
rightanglesisknownasstructureofwovenfabrics.The
interloopingsystemofyarnsisknownasstructureforknit
fabrics.
Texture
Texturereferstosurfacevariationsinfabricthatcanbe
usedasaneffectiveelementofdesign.Fibertype,yarn
structure,fabricconstruction,andfabricfinishescan
createinfinitevarietiesoftexture.
Sett
Atermusedtoindicatethenumberofends/inchor
ends/cmandpick/inchorpick/cm.
12

13. 13

14. Identification of Face and Back of a Fabric
The face and back side of a fabric is determined by the
appearance of the fabric. The way of determining the face
of a fabric are-
The face side has the more luster than the back side.
If luster is not present, then the side having more clarity
in the design is the face.
If both side are luster and the clarity of the design is
same on both sides then any side can be taken as face.
14

15. Identification of warp and weft of a fabric
Warp and weft of a woven fabric can be identified by
following-
1.The selvedge always runs in the lengthwise (warp)
direction of a fabric.
2.Size in the yarn of a grey fabric indicate the warp yarn.
3.Generally warp density is higher than weft density but it
is doubtful when EPI and PPI are equal.
4.Most fabrics have lower elongation in the warp direction.
5.The warp yarns lie straighter and are more parallel in the
fabric because of loom tension.
15

16. 6.Fancy or special-fancy yarns are usually in the filling
direction.
7.Fabric characteristics may differentiate between the
warp and weft yarn. For example, warp rib give the rib
direction in the weft way.
8.Warp yarns tend to be smaller, are more uniform in
structure and appearance and have higher twist.
9.Fabric crimp is usually greater for weft yarns since the
weft yarn must bend or flex over or under warp yarns due
to the way the loom operates.
16

17. Factors which affect woven cloth structure
Thenatureofyarnsused.
Thecountorrelativethicknessoftheyarnsusedas
warpandweft
Theorderofinterlacingtheendsandpicks
Threaddensityofafabric
Modificationsproducedbyfinishing
17

18. Calculation of Fabric Weight
18
2
2

19. Basic Elements or Parts of a Complete Woven Design
The three basic elements in a woven design are :
•Design or weave plan
•Draft or drawing plan
•Peg plan or lifting plan
19

20. Thedesignindicatestheinterlacementofwarpandweftthreadsin
therepeatofthedesign.Itismadeupofanumberofsquares,which
constitutetherepeatsizeofadesign.Theverticaldirectionofthe
squaresindicatethepicksandthehorizontaldirectionindicatesthe
ends.Ablankinasquareindicatesthatawarpgoesbelowthe
correspondingweftand‘X’markinthesquareindicatesthatthe
warpfloatsabovetheweft.
20

21. Draftingplan:Theprocessofdrawingthewarpyarnthroughthe
eyeofhealdframesaccordingtodesigniscalleddraftingandthe
planwhichindicateshowdraftingneedstobedoneiscalled
draftingplan.Italsodenotesthenumberofhealdshaftrequiredfor
agivenweaverepeat.
21

22. 22
LiftingPlan:LiftingPlandefinestheselectionofhealdframestobe
liftedorloweredoneachsuccessiveinsertionofweftyarn.Inalifting
plantheverticalspacesindicatethehealdshaftsandthehorizontal
spacesindicatethepicks.Theliftingplanisdrawnattherightsideof
theweaveplan.Liftingplanissameasthedesignforstraightdraft.
Hencenopegplanisnecessaryinthecaseofastraightdraft.

23. DentingPlan:Theprocessofinsertingwarpthreadsor
endsthroughthedentsofreediscalleddentingandthe
planthatindicatetheorderinwhichdentingisdoneis
calleddentingplan.Usuallytwoyarnsarepassedthrough
eachdent.
23
Reed
Denting Hook

24. Drafting System
Adraftindicatesthenumberofhealdshaft,usedto
produceagivendesignandtheorderinwhichthewarp
threadsorendsarethreadedthroughthemaileyesofthe
healds.Inthedraftingplan,spacebetweentwovertical
lineindicateswarpyarnandspacebetweentwohorizontal
lineindicatesthehealdshaft.
Indicatingmethodofdraftingsystemare-
By numbering system
By ruling lines
By the use of design paper
24

25. 25
Byrulingline:Rulinglineinwhichthehorizontallinesrepresentthe
healdsandverticallinesindicatethewarpthreads.Themarksonthe
lineindicatethehealdsuponwhichtherespectivethreadsaredrawn.
Bydesignpaper:Designpapermethodinwhichthehorizontallines
representthehealdsandverticallinesindicatethewarpthreads.The
crossmarksareinserteduponthesmallsquareswhichindicatesthe
threadarepassedthroughrespectivehealdshaft.
Bynumbering:Numberingmethodinwhichthehealdframe
numberiswrittenbelowthewarpyarninaweavedesign.This
numbersindicatethenumberofhealdshaft.

26. Types of drafting system
26
Different types of drafting system are:-
Straight draft
Skip draft
Pointed draft
Broken draft
Divided draft
Grouped draft
Combined draft
Curved draft

27. Straight draft:
This draft is the simplest types of
draft where individual warp yarn in a
repeat is place in individual heald
frame. No need of lifting plan for
straight draft as lifting plan is similar
to design.
•Number of heladshaft is equal to
the number of warp yarn in the
repeat.
•Lifting plan is the same as design.
•Used in twill and satin design.
•The simplest and mostly used draft
system.
27

28. Skip draft:
This draft is used in weaving when
density of warp threads (EPI) is
high.
Number of healdframes may be
used twice or multiple of two than
the number of warp yarn in a repeat.
This draft reduces the friction
between the yarns.
The healdframes are divided into
two groups. All even numbered warp
threads are drawn through the
1
st
group of healdframes and all odd
numbered warp ends are drawn
through the 2
nd
group of heald
frames.
28

29. Pointed draft or V-draft:
In this draft system a straight draft is
reversed after half therepeat warp
way.
Thisdraft is used when the repeat
size is too large.
The number of healdshafts is
equal to half the number ofwarp
yarn in a repeat size of the weave.
The first and last healdshafts
contain two warp ends.
This draft is used to produce fabric
with symmetry design. e.g. zig-zag
twill, diamond.
29
Pointed draft

30. Broken draft:
This draft also referred to as herringbone draft.
This draft can be considered as a modified pointed draft.
This is a combination of straight drafts with different directions
constrictions.
The reversal of direction is not on the last or the first shaft as in
pointed or V-draft.
When the direction is reversed the first thread of the next group is
started higher or lower than the thread the thread of proceeding group.
Used for producing herringbone twills, diaper design etc.
30

31. Divided draft:
This draft is used for derived weaves, double warp weaves, two
ply weaves, pile weaves and some others.
In this draft, the shaft are divided into two or more groups.
A suitable type of draft is chosen for each group.
31

32. Grouped draft:
This drafts is used for producing check and stripe fabric.
Two sets of stripes are used in two sets of healdshafts.
The repeat of the draft is determined by the number of stripes and
the number of threads in each stripe.
The number of shafts in the draft depends upon the number of
stripes and the warp repeat of weave of each stripe.
32

33. Combined draft:
Various methods of drawing in can be combined in one draft for
producing a certain type of fabric
Two or more drafts described above can be applied simultaneously,
for example, straight and skip or sateen, grouped and curved, and so
on.
It is a very complicated types of draft.
It can be chosen if there are some technological or economical
reasons.
The designer having a great experience can do it properly.
33

34. Curved draft:
This draft is applied for fancy weave with large warp repeat unit.
Used to reduce the no. of healdshafts.
Curved drafts are irregular and cannot be classified.
The minimal number of healdshaft equals the numbers ofthreads in
warp repeat with different order of interlacing.
The drawing in is done applying the rule: aIlwarp threads which
works alike are drawn on the same healdshaft.
34

35. Basic weave or structure
Wovenfabricstructureisdefinedastheinterlacementof
warpandweftyarnat90degreeanglestoeachother.Itis
alsocalledweavestructure.Thenumberofweavestructures
thatcanbeproducedispracticallyunlimited.Threetypesof
basicweavestructureformthebasisofeventhemost
complexweaves.Allstructurescanbederivedfromthethree
basicweaves:Plain,TwillandSatin/Sateen.Mosttwo-
dimensionalwovenfabricsareconstructedfromsimple
weavesandoftheseatleast90%useplainweave.
35

36. Graphical presentation of three basic weaves are following:
36
X X
X X
X X
X X
XX
XX
X X
X
X
X
X
X
# Plain# Twill
# Regular Satin
m3

37. Plain Weave
Aweaveinwhichthereare2endsand2picksinarepeatiscalled
plainweave.Itisthesimplestofallweavesandvariouslyknownas
calicoortabbyweave.Itismostlyusedweave.Thefirmnessofany
wovenstructuredependsonthefrequencyofinterlacingbetween
thewarpandweftthreads.Thegreaterthenumberofintersections
thebetterwillbethefirmnessofthecloth.Sotheplainweave
showsthemaximumfirmnessthananyotherweave.Plainweaveis
usedincambric,muslin,blanket,canvas,dhooti,sharee,shirting,
suitingetc.
37

38. The plain weave has the following characteristics :
•Ithasthemaximumnumberofbindingpoints
•Thethreadsinterlaceonalternateorderof1upand1down.
•Thethreaddensityislimited
•Cloththicknessandmassperunitareaarelimited.
•Itproducesarelativelystrongerfabricthatisobtainedbyanyother
simplecombinationofthreads,exceptingthatof“gauze”or“cross
weaving”.
•Ithasthesmallestrepeat2x2.
•Bothsidesoftheweaveareidentical.
•Eachthreadgivesmaximumamountofsupporttotheadjacent
threads.
•Textureisstrongerandfirmerthananyotherordinarycloth.
•Madefromallkindoftextilerawmaterialsandyarns.
•Minimum2healdframesarerequiredtoformtheweave.
38

39. Classification of Plain Cloth
39

40. 40

41. 41

42. 42

43. Derivatives/Modification of Plain Weave
Weavesdevelopedonthebasisofplainweaveprincipleiscalled
derivatives/modificationofplainweave.AIItheweavesthosearebased
onplainweaveprincipleareclassifiedasfollows:
43
Plain
Weave
Matt
Weave
Regular
Matt
Irregula
r Matt
Stitch
Matt
Fancy
Matt
Rib
Weave
Warp
Rib
Regular
Warp Rib
Irregular
Warp Rib
Weft
Rib
Regular
Weft Rib
Irregular
Weft Rib
Theplainweavemaybemodifiedbyextendingitwarporweftwayor
both.Theextensionoftheplainweavethusproducesaribeffect.Awarp
ribresultsfromextendingtheplainweaveinthewarpdirectionanda
weftribstructureresultsfromextendingtheplainweaveintheweft
direction.Amattribresultsfromextendingtheplainweaveinboth
directions.

44. 44
RibWeave:
Ribbedorcordedeffectsarevariations
oftheplainweave.Interestingand
attractivefabricscanbeobtainedwith
theribvariationoftheplainweaveor
bymakingarib-weaveconstruction.
Theribmaybeproducedinthewarpor
intheweftbyalternatingfineyarns
withcoarseyarnsorsingleyarnswith
doubledyarns.Ribweavesareusedin
grossgraincloths,matelassefabrics,
reppclothwhichisextensively
employedforwindowblindsinrailway
carriagesandothervehicles,
upholsteringfurniture,andcambric
pickethandkerchief.Therearetwo
typesofribweavesuchaswarpriband
weftrib.
Warp Rib
Weft Rib

45. 45

46. RegularWarpribweave:
Inthisweavethenumber
ofpicksinthebundle
shouldbesame,i.e.inthe
formulanumberthe
numberabovethefraction
lineandbelowthefraction
linearesame.The
thicknessofallribsare
same.Sothesamesizeof
ribsareproducedonthe
surfaceofthefabric.The
regularwarpribweaves
areshowninthefigure.
46

47. IrregularWarpribweave:
Inthiscasethenumberof
weftyarnsinthebundleare
differenti.e.intheformula
numberthenumberabovethe
fractionlineandbelowthe
fractionlinearenotsame.
Thethicknessofallribsare
notsame.Sothedifferentsize
ofribsi.e.thickandthinribs
areproducedonthesurfaceof
thefabric.Theirregularwarp
ribweavesareshowninthe
figure.
47

48. 48

49. RegularWeftribweave:
Inthisweavethenumberof
warpendsinthebundle
shouldbesamei.e.inthe
formulanumberthereis
singlenumberattheright
sideofthefractionline.
Thethicknessofallribsis
same.Sothesamesizeof
ribsisproducedonthe
surfaceofthefabric.The
regularweftribweavesare
showninthefigure.
49

50. IrregularWeftribweave:
Inthiscasethenumberof
warpyarnsinthebundleis
differenti.e.intheformula
numberthereistwo
differentnumbersatthe
rightsideofthefraction
line.Thethicknessofall
ribsisnotsame.Sothe
differentsizeofribsi.e.
thickandthinribsare
producedonthesurfaceof
thefabric.Theirregular
weftribweavesareshown
inthefigure.
50

51. Hopsack/Basket/MattWeave:
Thehopsackweaveisavariationoftheplainweaveusestwoormorewarp
and/ortwoormoreweftyarnssidebysideasoneyarn.Themattrib
structuresresultfromextendingtheplainweaveinbothdirections.The
resultantclothisfairlylooseinweave.Thehopsackweaveisobtainedby
doublingorotherwisemultiplyingtheinterlacingpointsoftheplainweave
inboththewarpandweftdirection.Basketweavesaremadewithtwoor
moreadjacentwarpscontrolledbythesamehealdshaftandwithtwoor
moreweftyarnsplacedinthesameshed.Theinterlacingpatternissimilar
toaplainweavebuttwoormoreyarnsfollowthesameparallelpath.Basket
weavefabricsaremoreflexibleandwrinkleresistantbecausethereare
fewerinterlacingpersquareinch.Thefabricslookflatterthancomparable
regularplainweavefabrics.However,longfloatssnageasily.Thematt
weaveclothhasagreaterresistancetotearing.Mattweavestendtogive
smoothsurfacedfabrics.Intherepeatsizeofthemattweavethenumbersof
warpandweftyarnsareequal.Mattweavefindsextensiveusesforagreat
varietyoffabricssuchasdressmaterials,shirtings,sailcloth,duckclothetc.
Therearefourtypesofhopsackormattweavesuchasregularmatt,
irregularmatt,stitchmattandfancymatt.
51

52. 52

53. 53

54. StitchMattweave:
Mattorbasketstructuresare
liabletoslippageespeciallyin
coarserweavesorwhenwoven
withworstedyarns.Toproducea
firmclothwithlowersetting,the
centreendsineachsquarecanbe
stitched.Incaseofwarpfloat
areathecentralwarpyarngoes
downandinweftfloatareathe
centralwarpyarncomesup.
54

55. Fancy Matt weave:
Fancymattisonekindofstitch
matt.Incaseofstitchmatt,the
stitchorstitchingthreadisdoes
notaffecttheprominenceof
actualregularmatteffect.The
stitchingthreadishiddenbythe
neighboringthreads,soitdoes
notvisibleonthefabricsurface.
Butinthefancymattthe
stitchingthreadsarenothidden,
theyarevisible.Thestitching
systemaffectsthedesignofthe
regularmattweave.They
producedecorativeappearance
onthefabricsurface.Itcanbe
comparedwith“katha”and
”nokshi-katha”.
55

56. Ornamentation of plain cloth:
Aplainweaveisornamentedwithoutdeviatingfromthetrueprinciplesof
plainweaveasfollows:
•Thethreadsinbothwarpandweftvaryincolor,rawmaterial,typesof
constructionandinthickness.
•Threadsofdifferentcolorsarecombinedincheckform.
•Byusingfancyslubyarns.
•Bycombiningdifferentordersofdenting.
•Byusingtwowarpbeamswhicharedifferentintensionproduceseer-
suckerstripeinfabric.
•Byusingdifferenttwistedyarns(suchashardtwistedweftyarnproduce
creponeffect).
•Byusingdifferenttextilematerials,suchaswoolandcottonisuseto
produceunionfabric.
•Byusingaspeciallyshapedreed,whichrisesandfallsthethreadsare
causedtoformzigzaglinesinthecloth.
•Byusingextremelyfineorcoarseyarn.
56

57. Enduses:
Itisusedforstructures,whichrangefromveryheavyandcoarsecanvasandblankets
madeofthickyarnstothelightestandfinestcambriesandmuslinsmadeinextremely
fineyarns.
Advantagesanddisadvantagesofplainweavefabric:
Advantages:
•WearswellandSnag-resistant
•Offersappropriatebackgroundforprinting,specialfinishesandappliedsurface
designs.
•Gooddimensionalstabilityforhighfabriccounti.e.highthreaddensity.
•Fabricisreversibleifnotprintedorfinishedwithspecialeffects.
Disadvantages:
•Hardtodeterminethefaceandbackofthefabric.
•Appearsuninteresting.
•Showswrinkling.
•Lowertearstrengththansomeotherweaves.
•Showssoilreadily.
57

58. The End
58

59. Twill Weave
Twillweaveisakindofweavethatrepeatonthreeormoreendsandpicksandproduces
diagonallineonthefaceoffabric.Inaregulartwillthediagonallineortwilllineproducesat
45degreeanglewiththehorizontal.Twillweaveissecondbasicweavefromtheviewof
productionanduse.
Features of Twill Weave:
The main feature of twill weave are mention bellow:-
•Diagonallinecanbeseenonthefacedofthefabric.
•Moreendsperunitareaandpicksperunitareathanplaincloth.
•Lessbindingpointsthanplaincloth
•Bettercoverthanplainweave
•Morecloththicknessandmassperunitarea.
•Twilllinemaybefromlowerlifttoupperright(Z-twill)orfromlowerrighttoupperlift(S-
twill)corner.
•Smallerrepeattwillis(3)Itmeanstakeatleastthreeendandthreepicksproducetwill
weave.
•Threeormorehealdshaftarerequiredforshedding.
•Generallystraightdraftisusedfortwillweavebesidesthispointedorvdraftisalsoused.
•Appearanceitwilldesigncanbeseenfrombothsidesthefabric.
•Diagonallinesrunatanglevarybetween(15-75)Degreebutinacontinuousorregulartwill
is45degree.
59

60. 60

61. Again,Theanglemadebythetwilllinewiththehorizontal
direction(weftdirection)isknownasangleoftwill.
Ɵ=
Twill angle is dependent on the ratio between the ends/inch
and picks/inch in the cloth.
Whenthewarpends/inchisequaltotheweftpicks/inch,the
twillanglewillbe45°.
Whenthewarpends/inchexceedstheweftpicks/inchthetwill
anglewillbeanobtuseanglei.e.,>45°(highangleorsteep
twill).
Whentheweftpicks/inchexceedsthewarpends/inch,thetwill
anglewillbeanacuteanglei.e.,<45°(lowangleorflattwill).
Twill angle also depends on the following factors:
•Difference between warp and weft count.
•Rate of advancement in the interlacement of warp and weft.
61

62. 62
Classification of Twill Weave
Twill weaves can be classified from four points of view:
•According to the way of construction:
•Warp-way: 3/1 warp way twill, etc.
•Weft-way: 2/3 weft way twill, etc.
•According to the direction of twill lines on the face of the fabric:
•S-Twill or left-hand twill weave: 2/1 S, etc.
•Z-Twill or right-hand twill weave: 3/2 Z, etc.
•According to the face yarn (warp or weft):
•Warp face twill weave: 4/2 S, etc.
•Weft face twill weave: 1/3 Z, etc.
•Double face twill weave: 3/3 Z, etc.
•According to the nature of the produced twill line:
•Simple twill weave: 1/2 S, 3/1 Z etc.
•Expanded twill weave: 4/3 S, 3/2 Z, etc.
•Multiple twill weave: 2/3/3/1 S, etc.

63. Derivatives of Twill weave:
Weaves are developed on the basis of principle of twill weave or
from a regular twill, these arecalled derivatives of twill weave. The
common twill derivatives are listed below:
•Zigzag or waved or pointed Twill weave
•Herringbone Twill weave
•Diamond design
•Diaper design
•Broken Twill weave
•Re-arranged Twill weave or Transposed Twill weave
•Stepped Twill weave
•Elongated Twill weave
•Combined Twill weave or combination of twill weave
•Shaded Twill weave or shaded design
•Curved Twill weave
63

64. Zigzag/Waved/Pointed Twill:
•Zigzagtwillisachievedbyreversing
thedirectionofthetwillweaveat
suitableintervals.
•Apointiscreatedinreversingpoint.
So,itissometimesreferredtoas
PointedTwill.
Uses:Figured or ornamented design,
Upholstery, Wall covering etc.
Types:
1. Horizontal Zigzag
2. Vertical Zigzag
64

65. 65
Features of Horizontal Zigzag:
•Thenumberofwarpyarnisdoubletothenumberof
weftyarnintherepeat.
•Pointeddraftisusedforthisdesign.

66. Features of Vertical Zigzag:
•The number of weft yarn is double to the number of warp yarn in
the repeat.
•Straight draft is used for this weave.
66

67. HerringBoneTwill
•Thistwillshowsanappearanceof
HerringBone.
•Ithasthesimilaritywiththezigzag
twilluptohalfoftherepeatbut
whilechangingthedirectionthe
interlacementbecomes quite
oppositetothatofthezigzagtwill.
•NormallyStraightdraftisused.
Uses: Suiting, over coating,
ornamented fabrics.
Types of Herring Bone Design:
a.HorizontalHerringBone
b.VerticalHerringBone
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68. HorizontalHerringBoneTwill
•Basictwillrunsalongwarp.
•Thetwilldirectionreversesuponthewarpyarnafterthebasictwill.
•Theno.ofwarpyarnisdoubletotheno.ofwarpyarnofbasictwilland
theno.ofweftyarnissameasbasictwillweave.
•Straightorbrokendraftisusedtomakehorizontalherringbonetwill.
•Thiscanbemadefromanytypeofregularbasictwillweave.
•Thehorizontalstripeeffectisproducedonthesurfaceofthefabric.
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69. VerticalHerringBoneTwill
•Basictwillrunsalongweft.
•Thetwilldirectionreversesupon
theweftyarnafterthebasictwill.
•Theno.ofweftyarnisdoubleto
theno.ofweftyarnofbasictwill
andtheno.ofwarpyarnissame
asbasictwillweave.
•Straightdraftisusedtomake
verticalherringbonetwill.
•Thiscanbemadefromanytypeof
regularbasictwillweave.
•Theverticalstripeeffectis
producedonthesurfaceofthe
fabric.
Uses:Coats,Suitsandornamented
fabrics.
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DiamondDesign:
•Itisconstructedontheprincipleofzigzagtwill.
•Diamonddesignisthecombinationofhorizontal
andverticalzigzagtwill.
•Thisdesignissymmetricalonbothaxis.
•No.ofbothwarpandweftyarnsaredoubleto
thebasictwillintherepeat.
•Itcanbedividedinto4equalparts.
•Itcanbedividedintotwoequalpartsalong
horizontalandverticalaxisi.e.diamondsform
symmetryacrosstheirverticalaxisand
horizontalaxis.
•Pointdraftisusedtoproducethisdesign.
•Thenumberofwarpandweftareequalinthe
repeatsize.
•Becauseoflargenumberofendsintherepeat,
Dobbyloomisgenerallyreferred.
Uses:Towel,bedcover,tablecover,pillowcover
etc.

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72. Diaper Design
•Itisconstructedontheprincipleof
herringbonetwill.
•Itisfoundbythecombinationofhorizontal
andverticalherringbonetwill.
•Straightorbrokendraftisusedtomake
diamonddesign.
•No.ofbothwarpandweftyarnsaredoubleto
thebasictwillintherepeat.
•Thenumberofwarpandweftareequalinthe
repeatsize.
•Itcanbedividedintotwoequalpartsalong
diagonalaxis.
•Diapersfromsymmetryacrosstheirdiagonal
axis.
Uses:Towel,Tablecloth,Bedcover,Pillow
cover,handybag,manyotherhouseholdfabrics.
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