Face pack and masks

detail face pack and face masks made by Nayana Nimje

1. FACE PACK AND MASKS…

2. INTRODUCTION :- Packs are cosmetics product which have been are since long ago. Face packs & masks are simple mix of chemicals & natural ingredients. colloidal & adsorptive clay & earth which are present in some packs will absorb grease and dirt from the facial skin. T he main purpose of face packs & masks is to achieve tightening and cleansing effect. Packs are just not for the face but are used all over the body.

3. NEED OF THE FACE PACKS AND MASKS :- The outermost one which is exposed to atmosphere is a horny layer i.e. stratum corneum & is made up of keratinized dead cell. These cells are responsible for maintaining the suppleness of the skin i.e. maintaining the moisture balance and over all appearance. The cells that have been too long on the surface of the skin are greyish & dull in tone. They may flake & can clog the sebaceous pores It may also help to prevent the youthful bloom of the skin.

4. What our skin need is :- Exfoliation :- This is deep cleansing process helps to unclog the pores, removes blackheads, whiteheads or dead cells. Nutrition :- for healthy development & regeneration of new cells & improvement of skin texture. This can be achieved by a using suitable face packs. This rejuvenates to give a smooth blemish free complexion.

5. DIFFERENCE BETWEEN :- Face packs Face masks 1. These have large amount of solid particles. The percentage of solid particles is not more than 5%. 2. It has more prominent cleaning effect. 2. The cleaning effect of masks are less as compared to packs. 3.Takes longer time to dry 3. Take less time to dry. 4. The effect of packs is due to absorbing properties. 4. The effect is a results of the flushing action produced by masks. 5. They are viscous having paste like consistency. 5. These are liquid in nature less viscous & have the consistency of lotions. 6. It hardens on drying & contract giving mechanical astringency. 6. They are usually flexible & impermeable to water even on drying.

6. 7. Removed by cleaning with water or soaps. Removed by peeling off. 8. It do not interferes with normal functioning of skin. 8. It interferes with normal skin respiration. 9. Constituents are clays or earthy material. 9. Constituents are gums, hydrocolloids, rubbers, etc.

7. Purpose :- It is used to draw out the hidden impurities, blackheads and unclog the pores. Gives immediate toning & revitalization property. Used to induce perspiration. Minimize fine lines & retexturing the skin. Used to skin fresh & make it soft & smooth. It has cleansing effect. Gives youthful glow to skin.

8. Desired properties or characteristics :- Should produced a definite tightening effect after application. should be free from gritty particles. Must be dermatological non-toxic, non-irritating to normal skin. It should form adherent coating on the skin. Should posses sufficient absorbent power. Easily & evenly spread on application.

9. Face masks :- After application of mask a continuous, elastic & impermeable film is produced. There is rise in temperature, due to retention of heat & thus, results in increased blood circulation. Removal of masks by peeling off produces transient tightening effect. Thus, this effect is of flushing action.

10. Face packs :- These are applied in a paste form. Water gets evaporated from the skin due to heat, & eventually hardens & contracts the skin. By giving mechanical astringency effect along with tightening effect to the skin. This is due to absorption by clays.

11. Mechanism of action :- Face packs & masks contains several ingredients to form paste. T hey have many effects depending on their ingredients:- Deep cleansing Astringents Stimulating Toning Hydrating & nourishing. The main ingredients of packs masks are as follows :-

12. INGREDIENTS Eg.of INGREDIENTS AMOUNT 1. Purified water Ion exchange water 40-80% 2. Alcohol Ethanol Up to 15% 3. Humectant Glycerin, polypropylene glycol, sorbitol. 10-30% 4. Film forming agents & thickener Polyvinyl pyrodidone, polyvinyl acetic acid, vinyl emulsion, cmc, pectin, gelatin. 10-30% 5. Oil component emollient Olive oil, jojoba oil, liq.paraffin. Up to 15% 6. Powders Kaolin, talc, TiO 2, , ZnO. 20% 7. Coloring agents Permitted colorants, inorganic pigments 0.5 %

13. 8. Pharmaceutical agents. i) Whitening agents :- vit C, & its derivatives, etc. ii) Rejuvenator :- pantothenyl ethyl ester, vit, animal & plant extract. iii) anti-inflammatory :- allantion 9.5% 9. Preservatives M.P, P.P 0.5% 10. Surfactants Polyoxy ethylene alcohol, polyoxy ethylene sorbitan, monolaurate. Up to 20% 11. Buffers Citric acid, lactic acid, amino acid, sod. Citrate. 9.5%

14. Methods of application :- The preparation are applied to the facial region including neck. It can be applied in the form of liquid and pastes.. If they are in the powder form they are mix with suitable solvent. Then applied to the skin in upward and outward direction. Allow to dry for 15-20 minutes or as per time required, but without any facial movement. Then removed by wet tissue or cloth or by peeling off.

15. INGREDIENTS :- Powders :- These are used for making face packs & masks are as follows :- kaolin or china clay :- It is white to pale cream powders. It has absorbent property used on oily & acne skin type. Fuller’s earth :- It is greyish green colored powdered containing aluminum silicate. It has strongest action than kaolin. Bentonite :- It is grey-white colored clay containing a minimum 90% hydrated aluminum silicate. Magnesium silicate :- It is white fluffy powders. It has toning effect on skin. Calamine ;- It is pale pink powder containing zinc carbonate & little zinc oxide. It has smoothing effect on the skin.

16. 2. Liquid used for making face packs & masks are as follows ;- Rose water :- It is a very mild solution. It is used on dry & sensitive skin. It has smoothing property. Almond oil :- It has nourishing & soothing effect . Used for mature & dry skin. Alcohol :- Ethanol is generally used in packs to decrease the drying time. It also has an astringent effect. OTHER INGREDIENTS :- 1. Humectants : - These are used to plasticized the film. Helps to keep skin moisturized. Glycerin, PG, sorbitol, etc. are used in the range of 2-10%. 2. Film forming agents :-They are used in the range of 10-30%. Film forming agents are pectin, cmc, cellulose, gelatin, etc.

17. FORMULATION OF FACE MASKS :- Normal skin :- magnesium carbonate, or kaolin mixed with either rose water, water or witch hazel. Dry skin :- oatmeal or calamine mixed with rose water or water. Oily skin ;- fuller’s earth kaolin mixed with witch hazel extract. Sensitive skin :- calamine mixed with rose water Acne skin :- kaolin & fuller’s earth, mixed with hazel extract.

18. CLASSIFICATION OF FACE MASKS High viscosity or Paste masks. Low viscosity or Liquid masks.

19. High viscosity or paste masks :- These are generally referred to as clay facial packs or mud packs. As they name suggests contains high percentage of solid dispersed in liquid medium. Bentonite 15% Titanium dioxide 2% Glycerol 4% Sulfonated vegetable oil 3% Water 76% Preservatives 0.2% Color & perfume 2-3 drops

20. Uses of ingredients :- Bentonite :- gives cleaning effect due to absorption property of it. Titanium dioxide :- Increases spreadabilty. Glycerol : - As humectant. Sulfonated vegetable oil :- Increases cleaning effect & aids in maintaining the plasticity of product. 2. Low viscosity or liquid masks :- It is formulated around the film forming characteristics of one or more hydrophilic colloids. The cleansing effect is due to the absorption property. To achieve this a small amount of clay is added but not more than 5%. This pack is easily removed but less cleansing effect.

21. Methyl cellulose 10% Glycerol 7% Water 83% Preservatives 0.2% Color & perfume 2-3 drops Apart from this, a more simpler & convenient type of classification is based on the raw material which is used as a base for any face masks or face packs. The 5 basic system in which face pack & masks can be classified are as follows :-

22. CLASSIFICATION Wax based system Rubber based system Vinyl based system Hydrocolloid based system Earth based system

23. Wax based system :- It consists of paraffin wax or may be the addition of mixture of waxes. Such as cety & stearyl alcohol. The use of microcrystalline waxes may assists the continuity of a suitable wax masks. These products have the melting point higher than skin temperature. Application on skin :- The molten mass is then mixed & molded in a small bowl. Preparation is remelted & brushed on the skin & allow to cool. When the wax get harden, tightness is felt. This form moisture proof barrier, profuse perspiration is induced that helps to flush dirt & impurities from the follicular opening in the skin surface.

24. Microcrystalline wax 13% Paraffin wax 60% Cetyl alcohol 5% Mineral oil 20% Benton 38 1.4% Isopropyl alcohol 0.6% FORMULATION :-

25. 2 . Rubber based system :- The rubber based system is mainly based on rubber latex. It is dispersed in aqueous medium & applied as emulsion on skin. 3.When the water is evaporated the latex form a elastic & water impermeable film on face. 4. Resulting in rise in temp. & increased blood circulation. 5. Easily removed by pulling off. 6. The skin has become plumped & acquire a rosy or pink hue. 7. To achieve a satisfactory dispersion of latex, high pH is required.

26. FORMULATION:- Latex emulsion 25% Base Sorbitol 5% Humectant Methyl cellulose 10% Thickening agent Kaolin 3% Absorbent Borax 1% Emulsifying agent Water 56% Vehicle Preservatives 0.2%

27. 3. Vinyl based system :- This is based on PVA or VAR as film formers. Finished product with PVA can be prepared at pH which can be tolerated by the skin. PVA is an effective, non-toxic, non-ionic emulsifying agent. The cream or paste type product can be made by addition of kaolin or bentonite or by use of higher mol.wt., organic thickeners. Various plasticizers may also be incorporated for the flexibility rewet ability of PVA film.

28. FORMULATION:- Veegum 0.5% Kaolin 0.5% Organic thickener Titanium dioxide 0.3% Good spreading PVA 12% Film former PG 8% Humectant, plasticizer Ethanol 20% Water 58.7% Vehicle.

29. 4. Hydrocolloids based system :- These can be high viscosity which after application loose water & form a flexible gel film. The sensation of tightness is produced by the shrinking of gel. Many gums can be used such as, guar gum, acacia, casein, gelatin, etc. The viscosity can be varied with conc. & type of colloid used. They dried out rapidly & have less cleaning effect. Drying time can be increased by adding humectant, but it may cause precipitation. 7. Cleaning effect can also be increased by adding kaolin & bentonite , but not more than 5%.

30. FORMULATIONS :- Gum tragacanth 2.2% Glycerin 2.5% Gelatin 2.3% Zinc oxide 21.5% Water 90.5%

31. 5. Earth based system :- They are also called as argillaceous masks. They include facial pack & contains high % of solid. As the masks dries on the face it hardens & contract giving the sensation of mechanical astringency. The presence of absorbent clays such as bentonite, kaolin produced cleaning effect especially for oily skin. Hydrocolloids such as carrageen gum may be added to stabilize the suspension of solids. Pharmaceuticals agents like sulphur, astringents, bleaching agents etc. may be added for some purpose.

32. FORMULATION:- Kaolin 35% Bentonite 5% Cetyl alcohol 2% SLS 0.1% Glycerin 10% Perfume 2-3drops Water Make up to 100%

33. Anti-wrinkle preparations :- The so-called anti-wrinkle preparations which appeared on the market in the early 1960’s are based on bovine serum albumin , & form an invisible mask on skin. In the manufacturing of bovine albumin, sodium citrate is added to fresh blood to prevent coagulation, & the blood is centrifuged to remove the blood cells. The anti-coagulation is then neutralized & the serum is defibrinated spray dried. The product is light in color, & completely water soluble. Bovine albumin is available from several sources in 3 forms:- As a 15% sterile soln. containing a suitable preservatives & ready for immediate use without dilution. As a 30% soln , to be diluted with an equal volume of water prior to use.

34. And, also in the form of a freeze- dried powder, which before use in reconstituted with water. In fact, a wrinkle smoothing composition disclosed in an American patent, contains proteins obtained from cow’s milk. Namely , α -lactalbumin & some β -lacto globulin. Water may be present with the range of 70-90% by weight., together with 2-4% by wt. of a non-toxic plasticizers such as glycerin or PG. The pH should maintained in the range of 5-7.

35. FAQ’S :- What are face packs & masks? Add note on any two systems of face packs. (8m) Classify face packs & discuss in detail their formulations aspects for any two face packs. (16) Hydrocolloids based system of face packs. (8m) What are functions and desired properties of face packs & masks. (6m) Discuss in detail various clays their role in formulating clay based face pack. (10m) Discuss in detail types of face packs & their formulation aspects. (16m) Described hydrocolloids & vinyl based system. (16m) Discuss the formulation aspects of anti-wrinkle preparations. (8m)

36. Reference :- Book name :- cosmetics-formulation, manufacturing & quality control. Edition :- 3 rd Author :- P.P.Sharma Book name :-Harry's cosmetology Author :- Wilkinson.J.B Edition :- 7 th

37. Thank you… Made by :- Nayana. nimje