Fashion Week x WWD

KAREN CHIANG
Public Relations
Spring 2013
Parsons The New School for Design

Table of Contents
Cover Page……………………………..1
Table of Contents…………………..2
Lead Articles & Sections….......3-8
Fashion Week Report…………9-24
Five Trends…………………………….25-30
Three Top Shows……………………31-32
Press Release………………………….33-34
WWD Editors List………………….35-36

Lead Articles & Sections
K A R E N C H I A N G

Friday, February 8, 2013
Lead Article
Playing for Keeps by Iman, founder and CEO of Iman Cosmetics
•  Iman cosmetics understands that there is a diﬀerent market that demands cosmetics "
that matches their skin tone.
•  Great marketing strategy, they stressed diversity. They are the pioneer in the ﬁeld of "
cosmetics for diﬀerent ethnics
•  Iman Cosmetics tapped into the culture itself, to understand what the market needs "
and wants. For example, hiring people from local communities for focus groups and "
learning their language
Sections
Beauty
Marc Jacobs Moves Show
Eye
Fashion Scoops
Multicultural Consumer
New York Collections Fall 2013
10WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2013
beauty
beauty brand that ﬁlled
the gap for black women
because it was deeply
personal for me. It was
more than foundations
and powders; it was ap-
pealing to a deep psychologi-
cal need that I think all black
women needed at that time: to
be told that they were beauti-
ful, invited to sit at the cool
table and courted in high style.
However, as we gathered more
information about the game we
were in, we started to shift into
the more holistic vision that we
are known for now throughout
our positioning and ad-
vertising: Women of all
skin tones want to look
good when they rule the
world. That is our funda-
mental principle.
At Iman Cosmetics,
we stick to a basic busi-
ness strategy that starts
with marketing and ac-
tually extends to a cor-
porate positioning.
1. What’s Your MI (Multicultural
Intelligence)?: This is the spring-
board for any marketing group
that wishes to take a sophisti-
cated approach to advertising
and builds sustainable brand
loyalty. How diverse is the
group sitting at the boardroom
table? Chances are, if there is
varied representation there,
the company structure is MI
savvy and will inherently know
how to resonate with their cul-
tural group. It starts at home.
2. Free Yo u r Mind: Marketers
can be incredibly perceptive
about trends but tend to ste-
reotype multicultural markets.
Multicultural markets are nu-
anced, but not alien.
3. Take It to the Streets: I’m not a
big fan of the “expert opinion.”
Nothing really beats hearing it
from the horse’s mouth, because
direct communication with the
communities of interest lends
authenticity to insights. Hire
people from local communities
as focus-group moderators.
4. Know the Language: Any mar-
keting group has to be on board
with cultural mores. If you’re
marketing beauty products,
you not only have to know
what’s of signiﬁcant import to
speciﬁc cultural groups,
but if advertising may
be potentially offensive.
Showing a collarbone to
advertise luminous skin
may be a norm in one
country, but may be con-
sidered lascivious in another.
5. Be a Flagrant Button Pusher:
We ’ r e a big fan of what some
marketers call “the wink.” This
is when a general market ad-
vertisement or marketing cam-
paign has a subversive message
of alliance to a multicultural
group with a sly social cue that
is completely devoid of stereo-
type. Again, this is where sophis-
tication comes in. There’s
usually an insider refer-
ence that someone who
is not part of that group
would miss, thus hitting a
sweet spot of recognition.
Multicultural consum-
ers often don’t want to be
singled out, just included.
6. Don’t Just Date Her, Marry
Her: If you target a multi-
cultural group one year,
you can’t simply drop that group
because there’s a new trend and
focus. If groups are not courted
on a continuous basis, they just
go ﬁnd a brand that will treat
them the way they deserve to
be treated, and this negligence
translates to a hit on your ROI
(return on investment). Period.
We did our own extensive sales
and marketing research to
gauge how women with skin
tones of color spend their dis-
posable dollars on beauty, and
split the variables every which
way to Sunday but in the end the
ﬁndings were unequivocal. Well,
what if she lives in Nashville
versus New York? She wants to
look good when she rules the
world. Or how about 18 to 34 ver-
sus 35 to 50? She wants to look
good when she rules the world.
Or a median income of $40,000
versus one over $100,000? She
wants to look good when she
rules the world. We can’t just
change the aesthetics; we have
to change our thinking.
Everyone is hip to the fact
that if you want to be in business,
you clearly have to be in bed with
the multicultural consumer. It
would be an exercise in foolish-
ness not to invite this customer
out to play. But the playground
mentality has been industry
standard for longer than it needs
to be, where someone new rolls
on the scene and all of the atten-
tion goes to that new person.
I’m wondering if there is
even such a thing as the mul-
ticultural consumer anymore
and if this entire framework
needs a renovation. But for
now I’ll continue to stick to the
basics, offering nothing more
than a place to play for joy’s
sake. After all, that is the point.
{Continued from page one}
It would be an exercise
in foolishness not to
invite the multicultural
customer out to play.
VIEWPOINT
The Multicultural Consumer:
Don’t Just Date Her, Marry Her
HAVE A COMMENT? VISIT WWD.COM AND OFFER YOUR POINT OF VIEW.
TANKTHINK
BY IMAN
By BELISA SILVA
THE OVERALL atmosphere
— from layout to the roster of
brands on display — at the fifth
Elements Showcase reflected the
event’s evolution, according to its
founders, Frederick Bouchardy,
Ulrich Lang and Jeffrey Lawson.
With more emphasis on ﬁne
art, natural materials and glo-
balization, the event, which was
held Jan. 28 and 29 at Skylight
We s t in Manhattan, drew 3,000 at-
tendees and 120 niche beauty ex-
hibitors from as far as Australia.
“We’ve done this for two years
now and we’ve hit our stride,”
said Bouchardy, creator of indie
fragrance brand Joya Studio, who
added that Elements would, in
the spring, travel to Dubai, its ﬁrst
international locale. “Dubai is an
ideal market for us, as consumers
there are taken by exclusive prod-
uct.” Tokyo is planned for 2014;
London will most likely follow.
The two-story space featured
only quince blossoms and bam-
boo to divide brands, encouraging
discovery and conversation. Art
on display included mixed-media
sculptures, digital prints and a
unique tablecloth installation by
Monika Bravo that explored local
ingredients and their connection
to human perception. “The pieces
in here — just like our show — are
heavily vetted and about quality
and the experience,” said Lawson,
owner of Jeff Lawson Associates
Inc. “It’s in line with what we’ve
set out to do since the beginning.”
Added Ulrich Lang, owner of
Ulrich Lang Fragrances: “Art loves
fashion and art loves fragrance.”
This year’s showcase also
included more internationally
diverse brands and for the ﬁrst
time, hair-care brands were
shown. In attendance were Berlin-
based celebrity hairstylist Shan
Rahimkhan, seeking distribution
for his namesake product line,
as well as hair accessories brand
Moliabal Milano from Italy.
“I think for any international
brand, getting a foothold in the
U.S. and speciﬁcally New York
is a measure of international
success,” said Lang. “We make it
easy for them to connect with key
buyers and provide a turn-key
setup for far-away exhibitors.”
Other global brands seeking
U.S. distribution included April
Aromatics from Germany, Majda
Bekkali from France, Canadian
brand Dossage fragrances,
Tiziana Terenzi from Italy, Sepai
skin care from Spain and Tommi
Sooni fragrance from Australia.
“We’ve come to [Elements to]
thank those who have been so
good to us and to meet them
and to expand the brand,” said
Steven Broadhurst, founder of
Tommi Sooni, who showed off
a new scent, Passerelle, made
completely of native Australian
ingredients like green boronia
buds and mimosa, also known as
Australian silver wattle.
Another international
brand at Elements was British
Illuminum fragrances, whose
White Gardenia Petals Vaporizer
Perfume was Kate Middleton’s
wedding scent. The company’s
in-house nose, Bart Pawlak, was
on hand to take visitors through
each fragrance, much like he
does at Illuminum’s lounge in
Mayfair, London. “The lounge is
[designed for] people to come in
and experience the fragrance. It’s
relaxed and if you don’t buy you
don’t buy,” said Keith Hamilton,
managing director, who added
that he was seeking specialized
distribution in the U.S. “We don’t
want everybody to have it. We’re
quite protective with it.”
Also showing were cult fa-
vorite brands like Humiecki &
Graef, Maria Candida Gentile,
Nasomatto, Olfactive Studio,
Providence Perfume Co., Purusa
Naturals, Sarah Horowitz Parfums,
Thirdman, and Undergreen. “What
we did was in addition to growing
the offerings, we sourced incred-
ibly hard to ﬁnd cult-favorite niche
scents because most are not avail-
able at all in the states or just in
one place,” said Bouchardy, who
added that “natural and organic
brands” were also a focus this year.
Among the natural brands in
attendance were “edible” skin
care brand Dr. Alkaitis Holistic
Skin Food, Kaia Naturals and
Pure Natural Diva, set to debut an
organic ﬁne fragrance collection
in April. “I’d been blending my
own fragrance oils when I became
aware of what was in them,” said
Tania Reuben, who grew up living
in a teepee on an Indian reserva-
tion and created the eco-savvy
blog also named Pure Natural
Diva. “I know that women who are
passionate about healthy living
want the [premium shopping] ex-
perience. They don’t want to feel
like they’re relegated to the aisle
of a natural food store.”
Among the color cosmetics —
a growing category at Elements
— were luxe nail brand
TenoverTen, botanical lip brand
Ilia Beauty, and reﬁllable organ-
ic makeup brand Kjaer Weis.
“The idea is that we position
this always as a design fair and
we focus ﬁrst on the fragrance,”
said Bouchardy. “We have ex-
panded to include other elements
of the apothecary lifestyle. We are
just doing it carefully. As long as
[exhibitors] are complementary
and ﬁt into the world we are cre-
ating, there’s nothing off-limits.”
Elements Showcase in Expansion Mode
The scene at Elements.
Iman founded Iman Cosmetics, a groundbreaking beauty collection
designed for women with skin of color, in 1994. Discovered in
Nairobi in 1973 by Peter Beard, Iman became one of fashion’s most
iconic models throughout the Seventies and Eighties. Today her
products are sold throughout the world.
ZDDLQGG 30

10WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2013
beauty
beauty brand that ﬁlled
the gap for black women
because it was deeply
personal for me. It was
more than foundations
and powders; it was ap-
pealing to a deep psychologi-
cal need that I think all black
women needed at that time: to
be told that they were beauti-
ful, invited to sit at the cool
table and courted in high style.
However, as we gathered more
information about the game we
were in, we started to shift into
the more holistic vision that we
are known for now throughout
our positioning and ad-
vertising: Women of all
skin tones want to look
good when they rule the
world. That is our funda-
mental principle.
At Iman Cosmetics,
we stick to a basic busi-
ness strategy that starts
with marketing and ac-
tually extends to a cor-
porate positioning.
1. What’s Your MI (Multicultural
Intelligence)?: This is the spring-
board for any marketing group
that wishes to take a sophisti-
cated approach to advertising
and builds sustainable brand
loyalty. How diverse is the
group sitting at the boardroom
table? Chances are, if there is
varied representation there,
the company structure is MI
savvy and will inherently know
how to resonate with their cul-
tural group. It starts at home.
2. Free Yo u r Mind: Marketers
can be incredibly perceptive
about trends but tend to ste-
reotype multicultural markets.
Multicultural markets are nu-
anced, but not alien.
3. Take It to the Streets: I’m not a
big fan of the “expert opinion.”
Nothing really beats hearing it
from the horse’s mouth, because
direct communication with the
communities of interest lends
authenticity to insights. Hire
people from local communities
as focus-group moderators.
4. Know the Language: Any mar-
keting group has to be on board
with cultural mores. If you’re
marketing beauty products,
you not only have to know
what’s of signiﬁcant import to
speciﬁc cultural groups,
but if advertising may
be potentially offensive.
Showing a collarbone to
advertise luminous skin
may be a norm in one
country, but may be con-
sidered lascivious in another.
5. Be a Flagrant Button Pusher:
We ’ r e a big fan of what some
marketers call “the wink.” This
is when a general market ad-
vertisement or marketing cam-
paign has a subversive message
of alliance to a multicultural
group with a sly social cue that
is completely devoid of stereo-
type. Again, this is where sophis-
tication comes in. There’s
usually an insider refer-
ence that someone who
is not part of that group
would miss, thus hitting a
sweet spot of recognition.
Multicultural consum-
ers often don’t want to be
singled out, just included.
6. Don’t Just Date Her, Marry
Her: If you target a multi-
cultural group one year,
you can’t simply drop that group
because there’s a new trend and
focus. If groups are not courted
on a continuous basis, they just
go ﬁnd a brand that will treat
them the way they deserve to
be treated, and this negligence
translates to a hit on your ROI
(return on investment). Period.
We did our own extensive sales
and marketing research to
gauge how women with skin
tones of color spend their dis-
posable dollars on beauty, and
split the variables every which
way to Sunday but in the end the
ﬁndings were unequivocal. Well,
what if she lives in Nashville
versus New York? She wants to
look good when she rules the
world. Or how about 18 to 34 ver-
sus 35 to 50? She wants to look
good when she rules the world.
Or a median income of $40,000
versus one over $100,000? She
wants to look good when she
rules the world. We can’t just
change the aesthetics; we have
to change our thinking.
Everyone is hip to the fact
that if you want to be in business,
you clearly have to be in bed with
the multicultural consumer. It
would be an exercise in foolish-
ness not to invite this customer
out to play. But the playground
mentality has been industry
standard for longer than it needs
to be, where someone new rolls
on the scene and all of the atten-
tion goes to that new person.
I’m wondering if there is
even such a thing as the mul-
ticultural consumer anymore
and if this entire framework
needs a renovation. But for
now I’ll continue to stick to the
basics, offering nothing more
than a place to play for joy’s
sake. After all, that is the point.
{Continued from page one}
It would be an exercise
in foolishness not to
invite the multicultural
customer out to play.
VIEWPOINT
The Multicultural Consumer:
Don’t Just Date Her, Marry Her
HAVE A COMMENT? VISIT WWD.COM AND OFFER YOUR POINT OF VIEW.
TANKTHINK
BY IMAN
By BELISA SILVA
THE OVERALL atmosphere
— from layout to the roster of
brands on display — at the fifth
Elements Showcase reflected the
event’s evolution, according to its
founders, Frederick Bouchardy,
Ulrich Lang and Jeffrey Lawson.
With more emphasis on ﬁne
art, natural materials and glo-
balization, the event, which was
held Jan. 28 and 29 at Skylight
We s t in Manhattan, drew 3,000 at-
tendees and 120 niche beauty ex-
hibitors from as far as Australia.
“We’ve done this for two years
now and we’ve hit our stride,”
said Bouchardy, creator of indie
fragrance brand Joya Studio, who
added that Elements would, in
the spring, travel to Dubai, its ﬁrst
international locale. “Dubai is an
ideal market for us, as consumers
there are taken by exclusive prod-
uct.” Tokyo is planned for 2014;
London will most likely follow.
The two-story space featured
only quince blossoms and bam-
boo to divide brands, encouraging
discovery and conversation. Art
on display included mixed-media
sculptures, digital prints and a
unique tablecloth installation by
Monika Bravo that explored local
ingredients and their connection
to human perception. “The pieces
in here — just like our show — are
heavily vetted and about quality
and the experience,” said Lawson,
owner of Jeff Lawson Associates
Inc. “It’s in line with what we’ve
set out to do since the beginning.”
Added Ulrich Lang, owner of
Ulrich Lang Fragrances: “Art loves
fashion and art loves fragrance.”
This year’s showcase also
included more internationally
diverse brands and for the ﬁrst
time, hair-care brands were
shown. In attendance were Berlin-
based celebrity hairstylist Shan
Rahimkhan, seeking distribution
for his namesake product line,
as well as hair accessories brand
Moliabal Milano from Italy.
“I think for any international
brand, getting a foothold in the
U.S. and speciﬁcally New York
is a measure of international
success,” said Lang. “We make it
easy for them to connect with key
buyers and provide a turn-key
setup for far-away exhibitors.”
Other global brands seeking
U.S. distribution included April
Aromatics from Germany, Majda
Bekkali from France, Canadian
brand Dossage fragrances,
Tiziana Terenzi from Italy, Sepai
skin care from Spain and Tommi
Sooni fragrance from Australia.
“We’ve come to [Elements to]
thank those who have been so
good to us and to meet them
and to expand the brand,” said
Steven Broadhurst, founder of
Tommi Sooni, who showed off
a new scent, Passerelle, made
completely of native Australian
ingredients like green boronia
buds and mimosa, also known as
Australian silver wattle.
Another international
brand at Elements was British
Illuminum fragrances, whose
White Gardenia Petals Vaporizer
Perfume was Kate Middleton’s
wedding scent. The company’s
in-house nose, Bart Pawlak, was
on hand to take visitors through
each fragrance, much like he
does at Illuminum’s lounge in
Mayfair, London. “The lounge is
[designed for] people to come in
and experience the fragrance. It’s
relaxed and if you don’t buy you
don’t buy,” said Keith Hamilton,
managing director, who added
that he was seeking specialized
distribution in the U.S. “We don’t
want everybody to have it. We’re
quite protective with it.”
Also showing were cult fa-
vorite brands like Humiecki &
Graef, Maria Candida Gentile,
Nasomatto, Olfactive Studio,
Providence Perfume Co., Purusa
Naturals, Sarah Horowitz Parfums,
Thirdman, and Undergreen. “What
we did was in addition to growing
the offerings, we sourced incred-
ibly hard to ﬁnd cult-favorite niche
scents because most are not avail-
able at all in the states or just in
one place,” said Bouchardy, who
added that “natural and organic
brands” were also a focus this year.
Among the natural brands in
attendance were “edible” skin
care brand Dr. Alkaitis Holistic
Skin Food, Kaia Naturals and
Pure Natural Diva, set to debut an
organic ﬁne fragrance collection
in April. “I’d been blending my
own fragrance oils when I became
aware of what was in them,” said
Tania Reuben, who grew up living
in a teepee on an Indian reserva-
tion and created the eco-savvy
blog also named Pure Natural
Diva. “I know that women who are
passionate about healthy living
want the [premium shopping] ex-
perience. They don’t want to feel
like they’re relegated to the aisle
of a natural food store.”
Among the color cosmetics —
a growing category at Elements
— were luxe nail brand
TenoverTen, botanical lip brand
Ilia Beauty, and reﬁllable organ-
ic makeup brand Kjaer Weis.
“The idea is that we position
this always as a design fair and
we focus ﬁrst on the fragrance,”
said Bouchardy. “We have ex-
panded to include other elements
of the apothecary lifestyle. We are
just doing it carefully. As long as
[exhibitors] are complementary
and ﬁt into the world we are cre-
ating, there’s nothing off-limits.”
Elements Showcase in Expansion Mode
The scene at Elements.
Iman founded Iman Cosmetics, a groundbreaking beauty collection
designed for women with skin of color, in 1994. Discovered in
Nairobi in 1973 by Peter Beard, Iman became one of fashion’s most
iconic models throughout the Seventies and Eighties. Today her
products are sold throughout the world.
ZDDLQGG 30

The Coach Love bottle (new
fragrance for Valentine’s Day)

Monday, February 11, 2013
Lead Article
China’s Changing Labor by Kathleen E. McLaughlin
•  Government seek to raise minimum wage by 2015. This will encourage more rural workers to ﬁll jobs in
the cities
•  Foxconn, the country’s largest private employer, is allowing employees to vote their union
representatives. This movement could change the country’s the manufacturing industry and labor force
•  Textiles and apparel industries feel pressure to follow suit, especially if the outcome is favorable to
workers
Sections
Accessories
Innerwear/legwear
Beauty
Marc Jacobs Moves Show
Fashion Scoops
Multicultural Consumer
New York Collections Fall 2013
Nicole Miller
8WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 11, 2013
Monique Lhuillier: Since her spring
presentation five months ago,
Monique Lhuillier has under-
gone a boom in brand expansion,
opening a New York flagship and
launching fine jewelry and her
first shoe collection. Up next?
Perhaps an Oscar moment. There
were plenty of red-carpet worthy
stunners on Lhuillier’s runway,
most notably the shorter gowns
in lace or embellished tulle and
the long-sleeved columns, one in
malachite green with deco-like
embroidery. A pair of black tulle
caged numbers looked great too:
a tented short strapless frock,
and a lace top and pants shown
under an open-front skirt.
Lhuillier’s less-formal
grouping was comprised of
some lovely dresses, draped
blouses and printed coats, but
the interest was eclipsed by the
glittering ﬁnale.
To m m y Hilﬁger: The historic
Park Avenue Armory was
transformed into a British
boarding school library, serving
as a ﬁtting backdrop for Tommy
Hilﬁger’s very focused Ivy
League-meets-Savile Row
men’s collection.
English fabrics such as
oversize Prince of Wales checks
and houndstooth were used
generously, showing up on
sharply tailored single- and
double-breasted suits, melton-
bonded mackintosh car coats
and cropped shearling jackets
with leather details for a hint
of the brand’s rock ’n’ roll DNA.
Similar shapes were shown in a
pinstripe fabric that, while not
as alluring to the eye, will likely
be a retail-friendly option.
Innovation came from the
use of different materials, such
as black pony hair on cropped
zip-up jackets and a Prince
of Wales print on topcoats.
The pattern was also used in
paneling details on layered
sweaters which enhanced the
full-on graphic effect.
The marriage of Hilﬁger’s
preppy Ivy League heritage
and creative consultant Simon
Spurr’s English roots has never
been so on the mark as with this
collection that blended their
two worlds in an innovative and
sophisticated effort.
Nicole Miller: Raiding her
boyfriend’s closet can afford a
girl a pretty good wardrobe — if
she pilfers selectively and adds
her own sexy touches. That was
the ruse behind Nicole Miller’s
fall collection, and it made for
an impressive showing. The
beau of Miller’s imagination
has a sartorial range from
band jackets to riffs on tuxedo
dressing, which the designer
demonstrated with savvy control
while adding sizzle via paneled
body-con dresses.
But then, Miller knows how
to work a reference in a manner
suited to her cosmopolitan
customer. These clothes played
commercial against cool quite
well, whether the skinny
suits and diamond-patterned
jacquard pants or the assortment
of knits and pretty ﬂorals, which
added a touch of softness to the
mostly mannish fare.
Band of Outsiders: Billie Holiday
and Atari. Quite disparate
themes, but, after listening
to a lot of the former and
ﬁnishing up a project for the
latter, creative director Scott
Sternberg combined them
into a well-executed Band of
Outsiders women’s collection.
Retro staples like A-line
coats, ruched dresses and high-
waisted pants never felt dated
when embellished with the
game-maker’s iconic graphics
(asteroids printed on fur
collars, adventure key motifs
on crepe de chine) or paired
with modern pieces such as a
cute bib blouse. Sternberg also
mixed in well-cut suits and
feminine sets like a sequined
sweatshirt and matching slit
skirt and a dramatic wool gauze
cape over a cotton shirtdress.
“I loved the shapes,” Sternberg
said backstage, “but more so the
whole system of dressing.”
Billy Reid: Billy Reid described his
men’s lineup for fall as “warmth
with street toughness.” His work
has a true American elegance
— ﬁnely tailored yet relaxed
Billy ReidTo m m y HilﬁgerMonique Lhuillier
Billy Reid
FALL
NEW YORK 2013
COLLECTIONS
LONDON FASHION WEEK LONDON FASHION WEEK
MACCOSMETICS.TUMBLR.COM
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
WWD.COM
FIRE SAFETY REFORMS: A handful of
people from the International Labor
Rights Forum distributed ﬂiers Sunday
afternoon in front of Lincoln Center
prior to Trina Turk’s fashion show,
protesting Gap’s ﬁre safety program.
In the wake of recent factory ﬁres in
Bangladesh and Pakistan that have
killed hundreds of apparel workers,
ILRF is calling for apparel companies to
share their knowledge about workplace
hazards openly and pay sufﬁcient prices
to factories for necessary building
repairs. “We’re asking Trina Turk to
do the right thing,” said Liana Foxvog,
director of organizing for the ILRF. She
explained that Turk did a line last year
for Banana Republic “and we believe
she has the ear of the Gap.”
According to ILRF, Gap’s monitors
repeatedly gave a clean bill of health
to That’s It Sportswear, the Bangladesh
factory that burned in December 2010,
killing 29 workers, many leaping to
their deaths from the upper ﬂoors of the
building because locked stairway doors
prevented their escape.
ILRF is calling on Gap to adopt a
ﬁre safety program which would help
save workers’ lives in Bangladesh. The
organization planned to go to the Gap
store Sunday to deliver a message to the
store manager.
“Gap is aware of the problem. They
announced a new program for ﬁre safety,
but it’s a repeat of a safety approach
that’s led to unsafe conditions and
death trap conditions,” she said. Foxvog
plans to embark on a speaking tour with
workers from Bangladesh and will also
travel to Gap headquarters to deliver
their message at the end of this month.
ILRF also plans to visit Wal-Mart and
Disney headquarters. “The most recent
factory ﬁre was a supplier of Wal-Mart
and Disney clothing. What we want is
for Gap to adopt the same solution that
Tommy Hilﬁger and Calvin Klein have
signed onto, and that’s the Bangladesh
Fire and Building Safety Agreement.”
She said it involves independent
inspections of factories; mandatory
repairs and innovations, and worker
and union involvement in program
oversight and implementation. “All of
these components are missing from the
program that Gap recently announced,”
she said. Gap couldn’t be reached at
press time Sunday. — LISA LOCKWOOD
BITTAR AND LIM: Phillip Lim commissioned
Alexis Bittar to design a one-of-a-kind
pair of earrings that will make its debut
at his runway show today. Possibly a
preview of what to expect from Bittar’s
upcoming foray into ﬁne jewelry, the
shoulder-length, chandelier earring is
comprised of 10-karat gold and oxidized
gold, crystals and tiny pavé drops with
a peacock feather motif at the center.
“I wanted to stay away from being so
architectural. The design of the earring
is deﬁnitely more feminine feeling, ﬂowy
and airy with the Sixties inﬂuence,”
Bittar said, adding that the inspiration
was a “softer Nineties grunge feel with
a Sixties bohemian ﬂair.” The $395
earrings will be available on alexisbittar.
com in July. — RACHEL STRUGATZ
TOWER RECORDS: Fendi has teamed
up with Dubai developer DAMAC
Properties to conceive the interior
design for a 490-foot-high residential
tower in Riyadh, and private apartments
in DAMAC Heights at the Dubai Marina.
The two projects, currently under
construction and set to open in 2015,
are the ﬁrst of a regional tie-up that
will see Fendi provide interior designs
and Fendi Casa furniture on various
DAMAC projects in Saudi Arabia and
Dubai. DAMAC chairman Hussain Sajwani
said the goal is to “take the standards of
luxury home living in the Middle East to
a new level.”
Fe n d i chairman and chief executive
ofﬁcer Pietro Beccari called the project
an example of the Roman ﬁrm’s “three-
dimensional approach to making
beautiful things.”
Carla Fendi was to join DAMAC
executives at a press conference today
at the Dubai International Financial
Center to unveil the project. DAMAC has
completed 37 buildings to date, spanning
almost 8,000 residential units, with 65
other buildings in development across
the Middle East and North Africa.
— MILES SOCHA
TAKE FIVE: For the ﬁfth part of Miu Miu’s
Tales short series, the Italian brand
tapped award-winning director Ava
DuVernay to shoot “The Door,” which
features Gabrielle Union, Alfre Woodard,
Emayatzy Corinealdi, Adepero Oduye and
singer-songwriter Goapele.
The ﬁlm — a little over nine minutes
in length— focuses on an actual door on
the modernist house of a main character
(Union) who just went through a break-
up. Friends come through that door to
console her and, with their support, she
eventually overcomes her sadness and
is able to move on. “The door in the ﬁlm
represents a pathway to who we are,”
said DuVernay.
The short will be available for
viewing on miumiu.com from Monday.
The series’ ﬁrst four editions were
also directed by women: Zoe Cassavetes,
Lucrecia Martel, Giada Colagrande and Massy
Ta d j e d i n. — MARC KARIMZADEH
YORK ON BLEECKER: J. Press York
Street, the updated collection of
classics designed for the preppy
retailer by Shimon and Ariel Ovadia of
Ovadia & Sons, now has its own home.
The company quietly opened the
doors this weekend to the ﬁrst J. Press
Yo r k Street store on Bleecker Street
in New York’s West Village. Shimon
Ovadia, who serves as creative
director for the collection with his
twin brother, said the unit will have
an ofﬁcial opening after New York
Fashion Week. “We didn’t even realize
it had opened,” he said at the label’s
fall presentation Sunday at the
Explorers Club in Manhattan.
Ovadia also revealed that he and
his brother have extended their
relationship with the retailer for
another two seasons. The line is
carried in the J. Press stores in the
U.S. and Japan and is also being
wholesaled to other stores.
— JEAN E. PALMIERI
THE BIG PAYBACK: Last season,
Alexander Wang caused a midsize
fashion week stir when he cast Liberty
Ross in his runway show. The model
hadn’t walked in quite some time
and was coming off a tabloid-ready
scandal thanks to her then-husband
Rupert Sanders’ affair with Kristen
Stewart. At Wang’s show at the Cunard
Building on Saturday afternoon, Ross
had moved to the front of house. “You
know what? I love both,” she laughed
when asked if she preferred the front
row. “I was so blessed and grateful. It was
a wonderful, meaningful moment for me
last season to walk for Wang. I had never
walked for him so it meant a lot. The fact
[was] that he was supporting me through
something that was [a] really trying time.
Now I want to support him because he’s
so wonderful and he’s got such incredible
things happening.…It showed a strength
that I needed.”
Across the runway from Ross in the
smoky space, other front-row attendees
included Zoë Kravitz, Alison Mosshart and
A$AP Rocky, who mugged for the cameras
with Te r r y Richardson — MATTHEW LYNCH
BACK TO BLACK: “London is very
unusual…I think you can do knee-
length, midlength or long,” said William
Banks-Blaney, founder of William Vintage,
of the local red-carpet etiquette ahead
of the BAFTAs. “There’s a greater sense
of individuality. I think you can be a
bit different and be yourself a little bit
more.” Banks-Blaney, whose London
store specializes in vintage couture, and
Gillian Anderson cohosted a pre-BAFTA
dinner on Friday night in collaboration
with Adler Jewellers. The BAFTAs —
Britain’s answer to the Academy Awards
— took place on Sunday night. Guests
included Laura Carmichael, Lily Cooper, Lara
Bohinc, Patrick Grant and Johanna Johnston.
Vintage decadence was the theme of the
evening as sea of couture, diamonds, and
vintage gowns ﬂowed into the St. Pancras
Renaissance Hotel. Anderson donned a
Seventies black silk Halston dress, while
Carmichael wore a Thirties black silk
Mainbocher, and Cooper opted for a Fifties
Nina Ricci Couture silk jacquard.
“Tonight, in particular, we are
showcasing our special discoveries. I’ve
been obsessed about black — randomly
— as I normally adore color,” said
Banks-Blaney. “So this season we’ve
done a lot with black from the Twenties
to the Nineties. We’ve got everything
from a 1924 original Chanel to a 1990s
Galliano and Mugler. — LORELEI MARFIL
KHALEESI, RIGHT?: A brunette Emilia Clarke,
who plays a platinum-haired queen
on HBO’s “Game of Thrones,” threw
at least one photographer at the front
row of Altuzarra’s runway show on
Saturday night. “You’re usually a blonde
in the show, aren’t you?” the photog
asked. “Yeah,” the actress said through
a camera-ready smile as the ﬂashes
popped around her. It was the ﬁrst
fashion week appearance for Clarke,
who is in rehearsals for “Breakfast at
Tiffany’s” on Broadway and sounded
smitten with New York, blizzard and all.
“New York as a city is just phenomenal
and I’ve fallen head over heels in love
with it,” she said. “I braved the heels.”
Elsewhere in the front row, the
Danish singer Oh Land took some time
to dispel a Nordic winter weather
stereotype. “Everybody suspects that
when you’re from Denmark you will be
like ‘all good.’ But yeah it’s way too cold
for me,” she laughed. “I want to go to the
south. There’s not a lot of viking in me.”
— M.L.
PUNNED IT: When asked, shortly after she
settled into her seat at the Prabal Gurung
runway show at St. John’s Center on
Saturday afternoon, if she was clad in the
designer’s threads, Olivia Thirlby really went
there. “Prabal-ly,” she cracked. “Sorry,
that’s the joke I keep making. I can’t
stop.” The actress was in good company,
surrounded by fellow enthusiasts.
“I’m Prabal obsessed,” said Jaime
King, also in a head-to-toe look from
the designer. “He chooses the most
fantastical structures; I feel like I’m
in a dream when I wear his clothes.”
Neighbor Analeigh Tipton had another
take. “I feel strong when I’m in Prabal,”
she said. “There’s no fragility to his
clothes and I like that.” A few seats over,
Elettra Wiedemann caught up with Caroline
Issa and Lauren Remington Platt, while Lily
Kwong greeted Bryanboy. Further down
the line, half of the Courtin-Clarins quartet
nestled into their seats. A bemused Soﬁa
Sanchez Barrenechea couldn’t ﬁnd hers. “Is
it here?” she wondered aloud to no one
in particular. — TAYLOR HARRIS
19WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 11, 2013
FASHION SCOOPS
Emilia Clarke
PHOTO
BY
STEVE
E
ICHNER
Gabrielle Union with
Adepero Oduye in
“The Door.”
P
HOTO
BY
BRI
G
ITTE
LA
CO
M
BE
ZDDLQGG 30

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10WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 11, 2013
Billy Reid
Cynthia Rowley: Nestled in the
back of an alleyway decorated
with large and exotic blooms
is the entrance to Cynthia
Rowley’s new uptown store
on 78th Street. The concept
— part candy store, part
fashion boutique — is based
on the idea of curiosity,
which, as she said in her
program notes, “is nothing
more than an invitation from
our imagination.” For her
fall collection, which she
showed inside the new store,
Rowley melded that very
concept into a lineup of glossy,
colorful and intriguing clothes.
More controlled in volume
compared to her spring show,
the suits and loose top-and-
pants combos looked great in
head-to-toe prints. Relaxed
candy-colored angora sweaters
were scrumptious and a lovely
mother-of-pearl pattern was
worked in various tones on
a coat, dress and matching
blouse and skirt.
Tibi: Sportswear, Nineties
utilitarian, synthetic versus
natural fabrics. Those were
just a few of the descriptors
designer Amy Smilovic
called out backstage when
describing her latest collection.
Sportswear is what Tibi does
best. Forget matchy-matchy —
these were great pieces that
a girl can put together in any
number of ways, from dresses
worn over pants to a knit dickie
with a T-shirt.
Wo r k i n g in a predominantly
black-and-white palette with
pops of brights, Smilovic’s
outerwear looked particularly
good in sculpted shapes,
some with removable quilted
vests and shearling linings
for multiseasonal wear. The
designer also continued
her recent love affair with
Neoprene, using it for hoodies
and boxy T-shirts that paired
well with slouchy pants
and oversize leather shorts.
Smilovic’s key print was
comprised of abstract dots but
most of the pattern was created
with contrasting patches of
color or materials like leather
and ponyskin that gave a
graphic, textured look.
DKNY: Having just launched a
collaboration with Opening
Ceremony featuring reissues
of early Nineties DKNY hits,
Donna Karan returned to
that period for fall, but this
time through a hip-hop lens.
Terriﬁc oversize parkas and
sweatshirts were featured, as
well as fun animal prints that
brought to mind the work of
Stephen Sprouse. Karan also
added large rounded shoul-
ders to her silhouettes,
particularly on
structured mini-
dresses and tops
that combined
multiple fab-
rics including
Neoprene. But
the few evening
looks here —
long, ﬂowing dress-
es over skinny pants
— felt out of synch with
the rest of her strong sports-
wear lineup.
Lela Rose: Evoking a rich
Eastern ethos, Lela Rose
opened with a terriﬁc group of
looks in rich colors, textures
and prints. A dotted wool
jacket in a ginger tone, for
instance, was worn with a
skirt crocheted in
an ethnic pattern.
Rose was playing
on “a Brothers
Grimm fairy-tale
inspiration” but there
wasn’t a Rapunzel in sight.
Some dresses, like the swirling
organza one in fuchsia-and-
white ombré, read more
Stevie Nicks. Of course, Rose’s
requisite slender cocktail
dresses and gowns were all
there, but it was the exotica
looks that were the freshest,
indicating that the designer
might be on a new path.
Robert Geller: The dark
romanticism of Twenties Berlin
permeated Robert Geller’s
collection, whose plays on
elongated proportions and
artful layering continued
to mature this season. The
designer referenced German
Expressionist ﬁlms with a moody
palette of charcoals punctuated
with pops of purple and red.
Geller’s signature oversize
knitwear, cropped outerwear
and athletic references — not to
mention his fondness for quirky
yet elegant hats — remained
from seasons past, but the
overall styling looked cleaner
and more contemporary. Geller
has created a ﬁrmly identiﬁable
look that is brooding, modern
and emblematic of a cool
constituency in men’s wear.
Tracy Reese: Tracy Reese looked
to her hometown New York City
girls for inspiration, delivering
lots of great effortless looks
that veered more edgy than
past collections. “We all live
busy lifestyles so I wanted
the clothes to have an ease to
them,” said Reese, who played
bright pinks and teals against
black, animal and floral prints.
She paired slouchy pants with
leather motorcycle jackets — a
fun one done in fuchsia. Body-
con dresses in animal prints or
all black were superstretchy for
comfort but still versatile enough
to move from day to night.
Also appealing were the loose
sweatshirts and sweaters paired
with little flippy skirts, while
her sequined frocks added a bit
of nighttime glam — something
every NYC girl wants.
Y-3: In an abandoned market
on New York’s Lower East
Cynthia Rowley
FALL
NEW YORK 2013
COLLECTIONS
Lela Rose
Robert
Geller
Tibi

Tuesday, February 12, 2013
Lead Article
Milan’s Export Drive by Luisa Zargani
•  Exports are saving the Italian more and more. Sales outside of Italy is expected to reach a new high in
2013
• Italian brands are depending on international markets to bring revenue in. The countries that are
bringing most revenue are: Brazil, Russia, India, and China
•  Even with the economic crisis and upcoming elections in Europe. Many are still positive about their
sales this upcoming year. Versace group CEO Gian Giacomo Ferraris is conﬁdent for a double-digit
growth in 2013
Sections
Textile
Ready to Wear
Pop-Up Strategy
Milan Preview
Beauty Beat
Milestone
EVA MENDES
TO DO LINE FOR
NEW YORK & CO.
PAGE 4
NEW YORK
WOMAN
WWD
Green
Light
With a Forties heroine on her
mind, Carolina Herrera sent out
a collection full of glamour
and gumption. Shoulders
were deﬁ ned, waists
were tiny and furs were
ultraluxurious, such
as this emerald
fox jacket over a
wool ﬂ annel skirt
and leather and
suede gloves.
For more on the
collections, see
pages 12 to 18.
TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2013 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00
PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER
POP-UP STRATEGY
Dior In Major Push
Of Raf Simons’ Line
By MILES SOCHA
PARIS — Raf Simons’ ﬁ rst collection for Dior is arriv-
ing at retail this month, accompanied by fanfare on a
global scale.
Dior is orchestrating a series of pop-up shops with
key wholesale partners in the coming weeks, trans-
planting the decor and atmosphere of Simons’ ready-
to-wear show in Paris last September to retailers in-
cluding Joyce in Hong Kong, 10 Corso Como in Milan,
Maxﬁ eld in Los Angeles, Isetan in Tokyo, My Boon in
Seoul and I.T. in Beijing.
“This is a new New Look,” declared Dior chief ex-
ecutive Sidney Toledano, referring to the extravagant,
fan-skirted silhouette that catapulted the French house
to international fame in 1947 — and to Simons’ critically
acclaimed reinterpretation of the founder’s legacy.
Toledano cited a groundswell of excitement among
buyers for Dior’s new artistic director of women’s
haute couture, rtw and accessory collections, and a
desire to animate Simons’ debut effort’s arrival in
stores. “We had a lot of demand, and we didn’t want to
be everywhere,” Toledano said in an interview.
Spanning window displays, special furnishings,
photo exhibitions and even a playlist of electronic
music by French DJ Michel Gaubert, the installa-
tions — some measuring several hundred square
feet — are slated to last for up to three weeks. The
ﬁ rst debuted earlier this month at Jeffrey in lower
Manhattan in tandem with New York Fashion Week.
An 11-day residency at Colette kicks off during
Paris Fashion Week with an in-store cocktail party,
where Dior is to launch the second issue of its in-
house magazine, with model Natalia Vodianova on
the cover in a hip-ﬂ ared tuxedo jacket. Dior also
plans an exhibition of photos by Willy Vanderperre
and watercolor illustrations by Swedish artist Mats
Gustafson at the concept store.
“We wanted our customers to be introduced to the
new generation of Dior in an exciting and unique
SEE PAGE 4
Milan’s Export Drive
SEE PAGE 20
By LUISA ZARGANI
MILAN — Exports are turning into the Italian fashion
industry’s saving grace more and more, as sales out-
side Italy are expected to reach the highest level ever
in value in 2013.
Also of note is the fact that exports are increasing-
ly shifting toward emerging countries and, for the ﬁ rst
time, sales outside the European Union will overtake
those within that area.
In the ﬁ rst nine months of 2012, exports to Brazil,
Russia, India and China gained 13.4 percent com-
pared with growth of 1.2 percent in the rest of the
world. According to Fashion Economic Trends, a
study distributed by Italy’s Chamber of Fashion,
in 2013 exports are expected to grow 2.2 percent to
44.3 billion euros, or $60 billion at current exchange,
while industry revenues are expected to drop 3.5 per-
cent to 58.2 billion euros, or $78.5 billion.
“This [is] on condition that the new government
will immediately put in motion measures to limit ﬁ s-
cal pressure,” said the study. If not, sales could show
a double-digit drop. Preliminary 2012 industry sales
showed a 5.4 percent decrease to 60.3 billion euros,
or $81.3 billion.
Elections in the country are slated for Feb. 24 and
25, toward the end of Milan Fashion Week, which
kicks off on Feb. 20 with Gucci and wraps up on Feb.
25 with the Giorgio Armani show. The elections pres-
ent an additional variable for fashion executives fac-
ing reduced consumer spending, widespread unem-
ployment and a lackluster economy.
FALL
NEW YORK 2013
COLLECTIONS
WWD MILESTONES
DENNIS BASSO AT 30. SECTION II
WWD.COM
WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 20138
By ALESSANDRA TURRA
MILAN — Europe’s economic uncertain-
ty didn’t stop the creativity of the high-
end Italian textile ﬁrms that presented
innovative products at the 16th edition of
Milano Unica, the three-day textile trade
show that closed here on Friday.
In 2012, the Italian textile industry
posted a 5.1 percent drop in revenues to
8 billion euros, or $10.4 billion at aver-
age exchange rates, compared with 2011.
According to data provided by Italian fash-
ion and textile consortium SMI Sistema
Moda Italia, textile products dropped 3
percent in 2012, even with positive results
in Japan, Russia, the U.S. and China.
Helping to give a positive feeling to ex-
hibitors, Sir Paul Smith, a regular at the
fair, which this season saw the number of
visitors increase 5.5 percent compared
with February 2012, kicked off the show
with an insightful speech during the inau-
gural press conference on Wednesday.
Smith highlighted the importance for
fashion designers, whom he views as too
sheltered in their “ivory towers,” to at-
tend trade shows in order to be inspired
and meet people. To meet the challenges
of the market, the British designer sug-
gested entrepreneurs should “push their
creativity” and “think laterally” to create
brands focused on “individuality” and
that have a clear “point of view” and a
“balance” between more commercial and
fashionable products.
Branding, innovation and internation-
alization were the key ingredients high-
lighted by Ermenegildo Zegna Group
chief executive ofﬁcer Gildo Zegna to
succeed in the current market. The com-
pany, which closed 2012 reporting a 12
percent increase in revenues up to 1.25
billion euros, or $1.6 billion, forecast sin-
gle-digit growth in 2013.
“The year will be difﬁcult, especially
in the ﬁrst part, also due to the strong
euro,” Zegna said.
Zegna pointed to the role of silk as one
of the reasons for the brand’s success in
international markets. He said, “Starting
to combine silk with our traditional ﬁ-
bers has been a very smart strategy that
enabled us to enrich summer collections
with products featuring the same luxury
standards of the winter season.”
At Milano Unica, the Biella-based com-
pany presented a new fabric mixing mohair
with silk. This is also available with Cool
Effects technology that reduces the absorp-
tion of sunlight, allowing men to wear dark-
colored suits during the summer.
Many of the exhibitors at the trade
show conﬁrmed that silk is on the up-
swing. The increased demand for the
natural ﬁber is probably the reason for
the instability of its price, which has sig-
niﬁcantly risen in the last few months.
“Due to silk’s high cost, we had to
raise our prices by 5 to 10 percent,” said
Bocchese 1908 ceo Michele Bocchese.
In keeping with the company’s DNA,
the Italian ﬁrm launched “Denim Loves
Silk,” an inno-
vative denimlike
silk fabric. “The world
of denim is extremely im-
portant and we like the
idea of combining it with
something classic and
traditional like silk,”
Bocchese said. “This…
reflects our current
strategy focused on re-
interpreting silk fabrics,
our core products, in an
unconventional and cre-
ative way.”
Denim also inspired Loro
Piana’s “Lin de Nîmes,” a linen
fabric with a denim effect designed
for men’s and women’s casual pants and
outerwear. In addition, the company in-
troduced men’s lightweight, crease-resis-
tant wool fabric “Accademia,” along with
“Aqua Wool,” a machine-washable knit
wool fabric available in piqué or jersey.
“Our strategy is deﬁnitely not driven by
fear, instead we are pushing on research
creating new innovative products,” said
ceo Pier Luigi Loro Piana, who forecast
that the company, which saw its textile
unit close 2012 with a 5 percent increase,
will keep growing in 2013. “I’m conﬁdent
that both the U.S. and China will perform
pretty well this year, despite the rising
value of the euro.”
Botto Fila ceo Alberto Bertoni also
listed the strong euro and its impact
on export pricing, in addition to dif-
ﬁculties in obtaining bank credit, as
among the problems that could affect
the market in the coming months.
At the fair, Botto Fila, which
generates 70 percent of its rev-
enues outside Italy, presented a
collection focused on comfortable
fabrics, mixing superﬁne wool with
stretch materials. Patterns ranged
from micro -houndstooth,
soft tartans and thin pin-
stripes to crease-resis-
tant wool fabric.
Technology took
center stage at
Marzotto as well,
which launched
“Scudo,” a line
t h a t f e a t u r e s
waterproof and
breathable fab-
rics made of cot-
ton, a cotton-and-
silk blend, stretch
poplin and wool
paired with an exclu-
sive high-tech Japanese
membrane.
Marzotto-owned velvet-
maker Redaelli Velluti launched light-
weight linen corduroy, available in a nat-
ural color palette. Silk-maker and print
specialist Ratti used new techniques to
obtain sophisticated and unusual pat-
terns, showing exploded-like dots and
Breton stripes.
Shirt-fabric-maker Testa also played
with patterns, including more elegant
stripes and chic casual checks printed
on cotton and cotton-and-linen-blend
fabrics. The company also embraced one
of the season’s biggest trends — denim
— in the form of two-tone high-end
cloths for jeans.
8
Alcantara !
!
Bocchese
Innovation Key at Milano Unica
textiles
By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN
NATIONAL COTTON COUNCIL econo-
mists told delegates at the group’s annu-
al meeting in Memphis on Saturday that
the outlook for cotton this year will be
inﬂuenced by China’s policy decisions
and continued competition from man-
made ﬁbers.
Gary Adams, NCC’s vice president of
economics and policy analysis, said recent
data on ﬁber market share demonstrates
the many challenges from synthetic ﬁbers.
“Measured on the basis of pounds
of cotton ﬁber, the 2012 U.S. retail cot-
ton market [about 17 million bales] fell
to the lowest level since 1996, amid a
fourth consecutive year of declining
market share,” Adams said.
In part, the loss in market share is
the result of cotton prices that have been
uncompetitive with polyester prices.
As raw ﬁber prices have moderated in
recent months, cotton textile products
also have become more competitive with
man-made fiber products. Assuming
these relative prices continue at levels
comparable to current values, market
share is projected to stabilize, leading to
a modest growth in cotton net domestic
consumption for 2013, Adams said.
“However, cotton is unlikely to re-
claim market share unless cotton prices
trade at levels below polyester,” he said.
U.S. spot cotton is currently selling
for about 76 cents a pound, while poly-
ester staple is at 91 cents a pound and
polyester ﬁlament is at 80 cents a pound.
The NCC sees 2013 world mill use of
108.7 million bales, an increase of 2.5
percent from 2012. More speciﬁcally,
international mill demand outside of
China is estimated to increase 5.7 per-
cent for the 2013 crop year, with more
than half of the growth being accounted
for by India and Pakistan.
“This demonstrates that a shift is
under way in terms of where cotton is
spun into yarn,” Adams said.
Continued growth in mill use is being
supported by the relatively stable price
pattern of recent months, more competi-
tive prices when compared with polyes-
ter, and more favorable spreads between
yarn values and ﬁber prices, he noted.
China’s current policy is another fac-
tor lending support to mill use in other
countries. By purchasing its domes-
tic production at prices 40 to 50 cents
above world prices, China is ensuring
that its internal prices are well above
world prices and causing its cotton spin-
ning to be uncompetitive, Adams noted.
Fabric manufacturers in China are in-
creasingly looking to ﬁll their yarn de-
mand with imported product.
China’s policy, while supporting pric-
es received by farmers, acts as a tax on
textile mills and has furthered the shift
to man-made ﬁber. Continuing to oper-
ate the program in a manner similar to
the past year will maintain pressure on
China’s cotton spinning mills. As a re-
sult, China’s mill use for the 2013 mar-
keting year is expected to fall to 34.3
million bales. With the support price
well above world market prices, the vast
majority of China’s domestic production
will enter government reserves.
“The coming year is shaping up to be
a challenging year where uncertainties
regarding the market are magniﬁed by
the 40-million-bale gorilla that is China’s
government reserves,” Adams said.
After consecutive annual declines, cot-
ton demand has stabilized and is expect-
ed to grow in the coming year. Adams said
with a recovering global economy, there
is strong potential for growth in cotton
demand. However, that full potential will
not be realized as long as China continues
to operate its current policy.
Reduced imports by China are only
partially offset by increased imports in
other countries, leading to a decline in
world trade from 38.9 million bales to 36
million bales. The U.S. is projected to see
a decline in exports for the 2013 marketing
year, down 1.6 million to 10.6 million bales.
Cotton Outlook Clouded by China
We’ve been building strong relationships with our clients for three generations. As
a leading provider of factoring and commercial finance services, we blend an
entrepreneurial spirit with a tradition of individualized attention. We’ll perform
the rigorous analysis you’d expect, then work to meet your needs the
time-honored way — personally.
At Milberg Factors, we won’t put you in a box or confine you with arbitrary limits.
We’ll look to understand your plans and your business to create a solution that’s
uniquely right for you. Let’s grow together. That’s what good relationships do.
©2011 Milberg Factors, Inc.
www.milbergfactors.com
Call Dan Milberg, SVP, NY 212.697.4200
Dave Reza, SVP, LA 818.649.8662
Ernie White, SVP, Winston Salem 336.714.8852
Run by people
not formulas.
Milberg Factors, Inc.
A TRADITION OF ENTREPRENEURIAL FINANCE
WWD.COM
WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 20138
By ALESSANDRA TURRA
MILAN — Europe’s economic uncertain-
ty didn’t stop the creativity of the high-
end Italian textile ﬁrms that presented
innovative products at the 16th edition of
Milano Unica, the three-day textile trade
show that closed here on Friday.
In 2012, the Italian textile industry
posted a 5.1 percent drop in revenues to
8 billion euros, or $10.4 billion at aver-
age exchange rates, compared with 2011.
According to data provided by Italian fash-
ion and textile consortium SMI Sistema
Moda Italia, textile products dropped 3
percent in 2012, even with positive results
in Japan, Russia, the U.S. and China.
Helping to give a positive feeling to ex-
hibitors, Sir Paul Smith, a regular at the
fair, which this season saw the number of
visitors increase 5.5 percent compared
with February 2012, kicked off the show
with an insightful speech during the inau-
gural press conference on Wednesday.
Smith highlighted the importance for
fashion designers, whom he views as too
sheltered in their “ivory towers,” to at-
tend trade shows in order to be inspired
and meet people. To meet the challenges
of the market, the British designer sug-
gested entrepreneurs should “push their
creativity” and “think laterally” to create
brands focused on “individuality” and
that have a clear “point of view” and a
“balance” between more commercial and
fashionable products.
Branding, innovation and internation-
alization were the key ingredients high-
lighted by Ermenegildo Zegna Group
chief executive ofﬁcer Gildo Zegna to
succeed in the current market. The com-
pany, which closed 2012 reporting a 12
percent increase in revenues up to 1.25
billion euros, or $1.6 billion, forecast sin-
gle-digit growth in 2013.
“The year will be difﬁcult, especially
in the ﬁrst part, also due to the strong
euro,” Zegna said.
Zegna pointed to the role of silk as one
of the reasons for the brand’s success in
international markets. He said, “Starting
to combine silk with our traditional ﬁ-
bers has been a very smart strategy that
enabled us to enrich summer collections
with products featuring the same luxury
standards of the winter season.”
At Milano Unica, the Biella-based com-
pany presented a new fabric mixing mohair
with silk. This is also available with Cool
Effects technology that reduces the absorp-
tion of sunlight, allowing men to wear dark-
colored suits during the summer.
Many of the exhibitors at the trade
show conﬁrmed that silk is on the up-
swing. The increased demand for the
natural ﬁber is probably the reason for
the instability of its price, which has sig-
niﬁcantly risen in the last few months.
“Due to silk’s high cost, we had to
raise our prices by 5 to 10 percent,” said
Bocchese 1908 ceo Michele Bocchese.
In keeping with the company’s DNA,
the Italian ﬁrm launched “Denim Loves
Silk,” an inno-
vative denimlike
silk fabric. “The world
of denim is extremely im-
portant and we like the
idea of combining it with
something classic and
traditional like silk,”
Bocchese said. “This…
reflects our current
strategy focused on re-
interpreting silk fabrics,
our core products, in an
unconventional and cre-
ative way.”
Denim also inspired Loro
Piana’s “Lin de Nîmes,” a linen
fabric with a denim effect designed
for men’s and women’s casual pants and
outerwear. In addition, the company in-
troduced men’s lightweight, crease-resis-
tant wool fabric “Accademia,” along with
“Aqua Wool,” a machine-washable knit
wool fabric available in piqué or jersey.
“Our strategy is deﬁnitely not driven by
fear, instead we are pushing on research
creating new innovative products,” said
ceo Pier Luigi Loro Piana, who forecast
that the company, which saw its textile
unit close 2012 with a 5 percent increase,
will keep growing in 2013. “I’m conﬁdent
that both the U.S. and China will perform
pretty well this year, despite the rising
value of the euro.”
Botto Fila ceo Alberto Bertoni also
listed the strong euro and its impact
on export pricing, in addition to dif-
ﬁculties in obtaining bank credit, as
among the problems that could affect
the market in the coming months.
At the fair, Botto Fila, which
generates 70 percent of its rev-
enues outside Italy, presented a
collection focused on comfortable
fabrics, mixing superﬁne wool with
stretch materials. Patterns ranged
from micro -houndstooth,
soft tartans and thin pin-
stripes to crease-resis-
tant wool fabric.
Technology took
center stage at
Marzotto as well,
which launched
“Scudo,” a line
t h a t f e a t u r e s
waterproof and
breathable fab-
rics made of cot-
ton, a cotton-and-
silk blend, stretch
poplin and wool
paired with an exclu-
sive high-tech Japanese
membrane.
Marzotto-owned velvet-
maker Redaelli Velluti launched light-
weight linen corduroy, available in a nat-
ural color palette. Silk-maker and print
specialist Ratti used new techniques to
obtain sophisticated and unusual pat-
terns, showing exploded-like dots and
Breton stripes.
Shirt-fabric-maker Testa also played
with patterns, including more elegant
stripes and chic casual checks printed
on cotton and cotton-and-linen-blend
fabrics. The company also embraced one
of the season’s biggest trends — denim
— in the form of two-tone high-end
cloths for jeans.
8
Alcantara !
!
Bocchese
Innovation Key at Milano Unica
textiles
By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN
NATIONAL COTTON COUNCIL econo-
mists told delegates at the group’s annu-
al meeting in Memphis on Saturday that
the outlook for cotton this year will be
inﬂuenced by China’s policy decisions
and continued competition from man-
made ﬁbers.
Gary Adams, NCC’s vice president of
economics and policy analysis, said recent
data on ﬁber market share demonstrates
the many challenges from synthetic ﬁbers.
“Measured on the basis of pounds
of cotton ﬁber, the 2012 U.S. retail cot-
ton market [about 17 million bales] fell
to the lowest level since 1996, amid a
fourth consecutive year of declining
market share,” Adams said.
In part, the loss in market share is
the result of cotton prices that have been
uncompetitive with polyester prices.
As raw ﬁber prices have moderated in
recent months, cotton textile products
also have become more competitive with
man-made fiber products. Assuming
these relative prices continue at levels
comparable to current values, market
share is projected to stabilize, leading to
a modest growth in cotton net domestic
consumption for 2013, Adams said.
“However, cotton is unlikely to re-
claim market share unless cotton prices
trade at levels below polyester,” he said.
U.S. spot cotton is currently selling
for about 76 cents a pound, while poly-
ester staple is at 91 cents a pound and
polyester ﬁlament is at 80 cents a pound.
The NCC sees 2013 world mill use of
108.7 million bales, an increase of 2.5
percent from 2012. More speciﬁcally,
international mill demand outside of
China is estimated to increase 5.7 per-
cent for the 2013 crop year, with more
than half of the growth being accounted
for by India and Pakistan.
“This demonstrates that a shift is
under way in terms of where cotton is
spun into yarn,” Adams said.
Continued growth in mill use is being
supported by the relatively stable price
pattern of recent months, more competi-
tive prices when compared with polyes-
ter, and more favorable spreads between
yarn values and ﬁber prices, he noted.
China’s current policy is another fac-
tor lending support to mill use in other
countries. By purchasing its domes-
tic production at prices 40 to 50 cents
above world prices, China is ensuring
that its internal prices are well above
world prices and causing its cotton spin-
ning to be uncompetitive, Adams noted.
Fabric manufacturers in China are in-
creasingly looking to ﬁll their yarn de-
mand with imported product.
China’s policy, while supporting pric-
es received by farmers, acts as a tax on
textile mills and has furthered the shift
to man-made ﬁber. Continuing to oper-
ate the program in a manner similar to
the past year will maintain pressure on
China’s cotton spinning mills. As a re-
sult, China’s mill use for the 2013 mar-
keting year is expected to fall to 34.3
million bales. With the support price
well above world market prices, the vast
majority of China’s domestic production
will enter government reserves.
“The coming year is shaping up to be
a challenging year where uncertainties
regarding the market are magniﬁed by
the 40-million-bale gorilla that is China’s
government reserves,” Adams said.
After consecutive annual declines, cot-
ton demand has stabilized and is expect-
ed to grow in the coming year. Adams said
with a recovering global economy, there
is strong potential for growth in cotton
demand. However, that full potential will
not be realized as long as China continues
to operate its current policy.
Reduced imports by China are only
partially offset by increased imports in
other countries, leading to a decline in
world trade from 38.9 million bales to 36
million bales. The U.S. is projected to see
a decline in exports for the 2013 marketing
year, down 1.6 million to 10.6 million bales.
Cotton Outlook Clouded by China
We’ve been building strong relationships with our clients for three generations. As
a leading provider of factoring and commercial finance services, we blend an
entrepreneurial spirit with a tradition of individualized attention. We’ll perform
the rigorous analysis you’d expect, then work to meet your needs the
time-honored way — personally.
At Milberg Factors, we won’t put you in a box or confine you with arbitrary limits.
We’ll look to understand your plans and your business to create a solution that’s
uniquely right for you. Let’s grow together. That’s what good relationships do.
©2011 Milberg Factors, Inc.
www.milbergfactors.com
Call Dan Milberg, SVP, NY 212.697.4200
Dave Reza, SVP, LA 818.649.8662
Ernie White, SVP, Winston Salem 336.714.8852
Run by people
not formulas.
Milberg Factors, Inc.
A TRADITION OF ENTREPRENEURIAL FINANCE
WWD.COM
WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 20138
By ALESSANDRA TURRA
MILAN — Europe’s economic uncertain-
ty didn’t stop the creativity of the high-
end Italian textile ﬁrms that presented
innovative products at the 16th edition of
Milano Unica, the three-day textile trade
show that closed here on Friday.
In 2012, the Italian textile industry
posted a 5.1 percent drop in revenues to
8 billion euros, or $10.4 billion at aver-
age exchange rates, compared with 2011.
According to data provided by Italian fash-
ion and textile consortium SMI Sistema
Moda Italia, textile products dropped 3
percent in 2012, even with positive results
in Japan, Russia, the U.S. and China.
Helping to give a positive feeling to ex-
hibitors, Sir Paul Smith, a regular at the
fair, which this season saw the number of
visitors increase 5.5 percent compared
with February 2012, kicked off the show
with an insightful speech during the inau-
gural press conference on Wednesday.
Smith highlighted the importance for
fashion designers, whom he views as too
sheltered in their “ivory towers,” to at-
tend trade shows in order to be inspired
and meet people. To meet the challenges
of the market, the British designer sug-
gested entrepreneurs should “push their
creativity” and “think laterally” to create
brands focused on “individuality” and
that have a clear “point of view” and a
“balance” between more commercial and
fashionable products.
Branding, innovation and internation-
alization were the key ingredients high-
lighted by Ermenegildo Zegna Group
chief executive ofﬁcer Gildo Zegna to
succeed in the current market. The com-
pany, which closed 2012 reporting a 12
percent increase in revenues up to 1.25
billion euros, or $1.6 billion, forecast sin-
gle-digit growth in 2013.
“The year will be difﬁcult, especially
in the ﬁrst part, also due to the strong
euro,” Zegna said.
Zegna pointed to the role of silk as one
of the reasons for the brand’s success in
international markets. He said, “Starting
to combine silk with our traditional ﬁ-
bers has been a very smart strategy that
enabled us to enrich summer collections
with products featuring the same luxury
standards of the winter season.”
At Milano Unica, the Biella-based com-
pany presented a new fabric mixing mohair
with silk. This is also available with Cool
Effects technology that reduces the absorp-
tion of sunlight, allowing men to wear dark-
colored suits during the summer.
Many of the exhibitors at the trade
show conﬁrmed that silk is on the up-
swing. The increased demand for the
natural ﬁber is probably the reason for
the instability of its price, which has sig-
niﬁcantly risen in the last few months.
“Due to silk’s high cost, we had to
raise our prices by 5 to 10 percent,” said
Bocchese 1908 ceo Michele Bocchese.
In keeping with the company’s DNA,
the Italian ﬁrm launched “Denim Loves
Silk,” an inno-
vative denimlike
silk fabric. “The world
of denim is extremely im-
portant and we like the
idea of combining it with
something classic and
traditional like silk,”
Bocchese said. “This…
reflects our current
strategy focused on re-
interpreting silk fabrics,
our core products, in an
unconventional and cre-
ative way.”
Denim also inspired Loro
Piana’s “Lin de Nîmes,” a linen
fabric with a denim effect designed
for men’s and women’s casual pants and
outerwear. In addition, the company in-
troduced men’s lightweight, crease-resis-
tant wool fabric “Accademia,” along with
“Aqua Wool,” a machine-washable knit
wool fabric available in piqué or jersey.
“Our strategy is deﬁnitely not driven by
fear, instead we are pushing on research
creating new innovative products,” said
ceo Pier Luigi Loro Piana, who forecast
that the company, which saw its textile
unit close 2012 with a 5 percent increase,
will keep growing in 2013. “I’m conﬁdent
that both the U.S. and China will perform
pretty well this year, despite the rising
value of the euro.”
Botto Fila ceo Alberto Bertoni also
listed the strong euro and its impact
on export pricing, in addition to dif-
ﬁculties in obtaining bank credit, as
among the problems that could affect
the market in the coming months.
At the fair, Botto Fila, which
generates 70 percent of its rev-
enues outside Italy, presented a
collection focused on comfortable
fabrics, mixing superﬁne wool with
stretch materials. Patterns ranged
from micro -houndstooth,
soft tartans and thin pin-
stripes to crease-resis-
tant wool fabric.
Technology took
center stage at
Marzotto as well,
which launched
“Scudo,” a line
t h a t f e a t u r e s
waterproof and
breathable fab-
rics made of cot-
ton, a cotton-and-
silk blend, stretch
poplin and wool
paired with an exclu-
sive high-tech Japanese
membrane.
Marzotto-owned velvet-
maker Redaelli Velluti launched light-
weight linen corduroy, available in a nat-
ural color palette. Silk-maker and print
specialist Ratti used new techniques to
obtain sophisticated and unusual pat-
terns, showing exploded-like dots and
Breton stripes.
Shirt-fabric-maker Testa also played
with patterns, including more elegant
stripes and chic casual checks printed
on cotton and cotton-and-linen-blend
fabrics. The company also embraced one
of the season’s biggest trends — denim
— in the form of two-tone high-end
cloths for jeans.
8
Alcantara !
!
Bocchese
Innovation Key at Milano Unica
textiles
By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN
NATIONAL COTTON COUNCIL econo-
mists told delegates at the group’s annu-
al meeting in Memphis on Saturday that
the outlook for cotton this year will be
inﬂuenced by China’s policy decisions
and continued competition from man-
made ﬁbers.
Gary Adams, NCC’s vice president of
economics and policy analysis, said recent
data on ﬁber market share demonstrates
the many challenges from synthetic ﬁbers.
“Measured on the basis of pounds
of cotton ﬁber, the 2012 U.S. retail cot-
ton market [about 17 million bales] fell
to the lowest level since 1996, amid a
fourth consecutive year of declining
market share,” Adams said.
In part, the loss in market share is
the result of cotton prices that have been
uncompetitive with polyester prices.
As raw ﬁber prices have moderated in
recent months, cotton textile products
also have become more competitive with
man-made fiber products. Assuming
these relative prices continue at levels
comparable to current values, market
share is projected to stabilize, leading to
a modest growth in cotton net domestic
consumption for 2013, Adams said.
“However, cotton is unlikely to re-
claim market share unless cotton prices
trade at levels below polyester,” he said.
U.S. spot cotton is currently selling
for about 76 cents a pound, while poly-
ester staple is at 91 cents a pound and
polyester ﬁlament is at 80 cents a pound.
The NCC sees 2013 world mill use of
108.7 million bales, an increase of 2.5
percent from 2012. More speciﬁcally,
international mill demand outside of
China is estimated to increase 5.7 per-
cent for the 2013 crop year, with more
than half of the growth being accounted
for by India and Pakistan.
“This demonstrates that a shift is
under way in terms of where cotton is
spun into yarn,” Adams said.
Continued growth in mill use is being
supported by the relatively stable price
pattern of recent months, more competi-
tive prices when compared with polyes-
ter, and more favorable spreads between
yarn values and ﬁber prices, he noted.
China’s current policy is another fac-
tor lending support to mill use in other
countries. By purchasing its domes-
tic production at prices 40 to 50 cents
above world prices, China is ensuring
that its internal prices are well above
world prices and causing its cotton spin-
ning to be uncompetitive, Adams noted.
Fabric manufacturers in China are in-
creasingly looking to ﬁll their yarn de-
mand with imported product.
China’s policy, while supporting pric-
es received by farmers, acts as a tax on
textile mills and has furthered the shift
to man-made ﬁber. Continuing to oper-
ate the program in a manner similar to
the past year will maintain pressure on
China’s cotton spinning mills. As a re-
sult, China’s mill use for the 2013 mar-
keting year is expected to fall to 34.3
million bales. With the support price
well above world market prices, the vast
majority of China’s domestic production
will enter government reserves.
“The coming year is shaping up to be
a challenging year where uncertainties
regarding the market are magniﬁed by
the 40-million-bale gorilla that is China’s
government reserves,” Adams said.
After consecutive annual declines, cot-
ton demand has stabilized and is expect-
ed to grow in the coming year. Adams said
with a recovering global economy, there
is strong potential for growth in cotton
demand. However, that full potential will
not be realized as long as China continues
to operate its current policy.
Reduced imports by China are only
partially offset by increased imports in
other countries, leading to a decline in
world trade from 38.9 million bales to 36
million bales. The U.S. is projected to see
a decline in exports for the 2013 marketing
year, down 1.6 million to 10.6 million bales.
Cotton Outlook Clouded by China
We’ve been building strong relationships with our clients for three generations. As
a leading provider of factoring and commercial finance services, we blend an
entrepreneurial spirit with a tradition of individualized attention. We’ll perform
the rigorous analysis you’d expect, then work to meet your needs the
time-honored way — personally.
At Milberg Factors, we won’t put you in a box or confine you with arbitrary limits.
We’ll look to understand your plans and your business to create a solution that’s
uniquely right for you. Let’s grow together. That’s what good relationships do.
©2011 Milberg Factors, Inc.
www.milbergfactors.com
Call Dan Milberg, SVP, NY 212.697.4200
Dave Reza, SVP, LA 818.649.8662
Ernie White, SVP, Winston Salem 336.714.8852
Run by people
not formulas.
Milberg Factors, Inc.
A TRADITION OF ENTREPRENEURIAL FINANCE
While not putting the spotlight on politics, it
“can’t be overlooked,” said Massimo Ferretti,
executive chairman of Aeffe SpA, which con-
trols the Alberta Ferretti, Moschino and Pollini
brands and produces and distributes collections
for Cacharel and Cédric Charlier. “We can survive
with bad political management, but with a correct
one, we can do better.”
Fe r r e t t i h a s b e e n i n c r e a s i n g l y i n t e r n a t i o n a l i z -
ing and rejuvenating the group, which posted rev-
enues of 254 million euros, or $325.1 million at av-
erage exchange, last year, with a 14 percent jump
in the last quarter of 2012. “The year did not start
well but ended on a positive note, with signals that
make us hope for the rest of 2013,” he said.
During Milan Fashion Week,
on Feb. 23, the company will stage
an exhibition, “Unpacking 60
years of Pollini,” an installation
by the brand’s creative director,
Nicholas Kirkwood. Besides its
own namesake brand, Pollini pro-
duces accessories for the Aeffe la-
bels, including Emanuel Ungaro,
the group’s most recent agree-
ment, inked in September with
the brand’s owner Asim Abdullah.
Aeffe tapped Fausto Puglisi to de-
sign the brand and the ﬁrst show
will take place in Paris on March 4.
Gianluca Brozzetti, chief execu-
tive ofﬁcer at Roberto Cavalli SpA,
attributed Italy’s woes more to the economy than
the political scenario.
“The bank’s reduced credit to companies and a
high ﬁscal pressure are not favorable to business.
The sooner this is solved, the better it is, and it
will help kick off economic growth, as companies
are penalized by crimped consumer spending and
stocked merchandise,” said Brozzetti.
The executive touted double-digit growth in
2012, led by retail and exports, which account-
ed for 80 percent of business. While Southern
Europe, Italy and Greece suffered, Eastern
Europe, the Middle East, the U.S. and especial-
ly Asia continued to grow, he said. Last year, the
company added 38 stores globally, reaching a total
of 168 and entering new markets, including India.
Retail expansion around the world will contin-
ue in 2013, with a Just Cavalli store set to open on
New York’s Broadway in the spring, for example.
Collections for Just Cavalli under a new licensing
agreement with Staff International bowed last year,
and a fragrance with Coty for this brand is rolling
out in 2013. The ﬁrm is also strengthening its home
division, and after the opening of Cavalli Clubs in
Beirut and New Delhi last year, one venue will be
inaugurated in Miami in the spring or summer, and
in Saint-Tropez, near the designer’s renovated bou-
tique — Cavalli’s ﬁrst, which opened in 1972.
Salvatore Ferragamo SpA closed 2012 on an
upward trajectory, with revenues of 1.15 billion
euros, or $1.47 billion, up 17 percent compared
with the previous year. Asia-Paciﬁc continued to
be the Florence-based group’s core market, but
chairman Ferruccio Ferragamo said all geograph-
ic areas “responded well” to the brand.
“Historically, in moments of crisis, we grow
more,” he said, citing the timeless nature of the
product as one of the drivers.
The company, which successfully went public
two years ago, plans to further expand around the
world in 2013.
“There are new and important potential areas
for business,” he said.
Asked about reported increases in prices,
Ferragamo said, “A strong euro doesn’t help us as
we produce entirely in Italy and production costs
are in euros. We can’t control that, and hedging
helps in the medium-term, but we
have been obliged to ﬁne-tune pric-
es with increases of between 2 and
4 percent.”
That said, he underscored that
Ferragamo is “not positioned”
above competitors and aims not to
penalize tourists or customers.
Versace group ceo Gian Giacomo
Fe r r a r i s w a s a l s o u p b e a t a b o u t p r o s -
pects, capitalizing on investments
made over the past few seasons in
its production platform in Novara,
Italy; in retail, including online, and
in the expansion into new markets
such as Turkey, Japan, Brazil and
Korea, as a basis for future growth.
He said 2012 ﬁnished with “strong double-digit
growth” and 2013 has started well at both at retail
and wholesale. “We expect a strong double-digit
growth in 2013 as well.”
The executive said growth in 2012 was led
by retail and, after SoHo’s boutique last year,
Ve r s a c e ’ s n e w s t o r e c o n c e p t w i l l b e i n t r o d u c e d
in Paris at the end of March or early April and in
Rome in June or July.
Last year, Donatella Versace set a new course
for Versus as a nonseasonal collection with a
strong digital component and created by several
designers. Ferraris conﬁrmed a Versus capsule
collection by J.W. Anderson will be presented in
New York in April.
WWD.COM
WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 201320
MILAN PREVIEW
Exports a Boon
For Italy
SARA BATTAGLIA: She’s only 28
years old, but Sara Battaglia
is definitely no newbie in the
fashion industry.
The younger sister of styl-
ist Giovanna Battaglia, she
worked for five years with
edgy bag designer Corto
Moltedo before launching her
namesake label in fall 2011.
“I was not brave enough to
start my own line, but my sister
pushed me a lot — so I designed
the ﬁrst pieces, which focused
on fringe,” said the brunette
designer, who revealed that her
bag collections are inspired by
the hyper-feminine women of
the Fifties and Sixties.
To highlight the brand’s
glamorous yet ironic DNA,
each season Battaglia poses
for her look book images
dressed as women ranging
from Marilyn Monroe to Mia
Wallace of “Pulp Fiction” and
Queen Theodelinda, or top
models like Cindy Crawford or
Linda Evangelista.
While fringe still decorates
some of the most popular
styles — such as the “Jasmine,”
a small satchel with tassels,
and the “Teresa,” a shoulder
bag with a fringed strap —
Battaglia is also developing
the line, adding geometric el-
ements, including a signature
triangle metallic closure, and a
wide range of evening clutches.
“Lady Me” is a boxy style
featuring a closure in the
shape of a graphic ribbon, and
“Veruschka” is a metal and
leather clutch that can become
completely ﬂat.
Battaglia’s bags already sell
at such stores as Colette and Le
Bon Marché in Paris, United
Arrow in Tokyo, Kirna Zabête
in New York and Joseph in
London. For fall she introduced
precious skins like crocodile,
which appears on a classic
shoulder bag showing a new me-
tallic chain. Retail prices start
at about 500 euros, or $670, for a
small leather bag with a fringe-
decorated strap, to 2,000 euros,
or $2,680, for a crocodile style.
Sara Battaglia’s new col-
lection will be available
by appointment Feb. 20 to
25, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., at L.A.
Distribuzione showroom, 6 Via
Ruggero di Lauria.
STELLA JEAN: According to
Roman designer Stella Jean,
fashion is a powerful form of
cultural and social dialogue.
“Designing my collection
has been a sort of therapy to
try to collocate myself in so-
ciety. I spent all my teenage
years looking for my identity,”
said Jean, the daughter of a
Haitian woman and a native
Turin jewelr y maker.
A former runway model —
she was discovered by designer
Egon Von Furstenberg — Jean
was among the winners of
Italy’s “Who Is on Next?” com-
petition in July 2011. For this
talent search, she created a
namesake collection combining
African wax cloths, a tribute to
her mother’s origins, with men’s
striped shirting fabrics, remi-
niscent of her father’s style.
“I’m sure that different cul-
tures can coexist not only on an
aesthetic level but also on a so-
cial one,” said the designer,
who in her colorful, artisanal
collections blends different
cultural references with a
playful touch.
The fall collection, for ex-
ample, includes a look fea-
turing men’s sartorial pants
paired with a Vichy
shirt and a cashmere
striped sweater, and
embellished with an
obi-inspired belt made
with African wax.
Latin American referenc-
es are also evident in the ample
capes and in the jewelry show-
ing Aztec graphics, along with
the bowler hats worn with fou-
lards underneath — a tribute to
the women living in the Andes.
The collection, which re-
tails at around 400 euros, or
$535, will be presented with an
installation and video on Feb.
23 at Galleria Marco Rossi.
A look at some emerging talents in Milan.
By Alessandra Turra
Ones to Watch
{Continued on page 22}
Sara
Battaglia
Stella
Jean
Versace’s store in
Manhattan’s SoHo.
Gianluca Brozzetti
Ferruccio Ferragamo
FOR MILAN
SCENE, SEE
WWD.com/
eye.
{Continued from page one}

Wednesday, February 13, 2013
Lead Article
Kors Looking to Grow With Retail, E-Commerce by Vicki M. Young
• In addition to their ongoing conversion of department store doors to shops-in-shop. Kors plan bring in North
American e-commerce business business in February 2014 so it can create an omnichannel experience for
customers, whether in-store or online
•  Kors is developing new products to add to their line. Over the holiday season, the drivers of sales was small
leather goods and handbags. Also, showing performance was the company’s new jewelry business. Which could
eventually be one of the biggest revenue generator for the brand nationally and internationally
•  The company said it entered into a joint venture agree- ment with Exclusive Brands International to create
MK Panama Holdings, which will enable Kors to expand its re- tail and wholesale presence in Central and
South America, as well as the Caribbean
Sections
Sports
Denim
Las Vegas Preview
Club Night
The Runway Report
WWD.COM
UP-AND-COMERS EXPAND
I n i t s s o p h o m o r e y e a r,
WWDMAGIC’s Emerging Designer
Showcase will expand to incorpo-
rate two divisions: Ready-To-Wear
in the North Hall and Accessories
in the Central Hall. The dozen ap-
parel vendors are:
• Stella Proseyn
• d.p.c. by Dora Yim
• ISM Mode
• Mike Vensel
• Roosterbear
• Lois Eastlund
• Laundrea
• Happy V Andrada
• Misile
• E. Herrera
• Sarine Berberian
• Haute Chocolate.
On the accessories side, cos-
tume jewelry exhibitors include:
• Verge New York
• Swathe
• Shawl Dawls
• Vincent Ko
• Christine Brookstein
• Eco-Tribal Designs
• Soul Carrier
• Mel Boteri
• Katy Doherty
• Fab Swank
• Caramia
• Nicole Meng.
Other vendors include hand-
bag lines Mei Vintage, DApper
Diction and Hipsters for Sisters;
and hats from Bijou Van Ness.
— M.M.
PROJECT’S BIG SHIFT
It’s a momentous year for
Project as the denim and con-
temporary trade show, which hosts
more than 2,000 brands, undergoes
an extensive update and becomes
the men’s centerpiece of MAGIC
Market Week, as the entire lineup
of Advanstar Global-owned trade
shows is dubbed. MAGIC Mens/
We a r h a s b e e n r e b r a n d e d P r o j e c t
Mens/Wear, joining two new show-
cases: The Tents at Project, a home
for directional designer and con-
temporary brands, and Project
MVMNT, which replaces the former
S.L.A.T.E. and Street young men’s
shows.
The changes mean the vener-
able MAGIC name has been retired
from any actual trade shows and
is now reserved for the umbrella
of Advanstar shows staged in Las
Vegas, including the women’s ENK
Ve g a s a n d W W D M A G I C e v e n t s .
Along with the name chang-
es, Project has been compressed
to a single main ﬂoor inside the
Mandalay Bay Convention Center,
from the two ﬂoors it previously
occupied. The moves are meant to
improve the ﬂow of trafﬁc to all the
Project-branded shows and ease
the buying experience for retail-
ers, said Tommy Fazio, president of
Project.
Most striking for Project attend-
ees will be a new 180,000-square-
foot tented structure in the parking
lot of the Mandalay Bay Convention
Center, which will house both The
Tents at Project and the ENK Vegas
show. “It’s quite a tent. You can see
it from the airplane as you’re land-
ing in Vegas,” said Fazio.
The Tents at Project is the jewel
in the reconﬁgured Project show
and will host 100 designer, contem-
porary and denim brands, which
are “at the forefront of the indus-
try” and “interconnected by their
innovative, artistic approach to
fashion and design,” according to
a Project memo. Among the par-
ticipating brands are Billy Reid,
Todd Snyder, Gant Rugger, Michael
Bastian, Bespoken, Edun, Robert
Geller Seconds, Grayers, Ian
Ve l a r d i , J . L i n d e b e r g a n d J a r d i n e .
WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013
SECTION II
WWDLASVEGASPREVIEW
12
The Vegas Dozen
{Continued on page 14}
{Continued from page 10}
Labels on the
rise at Emerging
Designer
Showcase.
Heart of Prêt
features
French brands.
Yigal Azrouël
ALEXANDER WANG
Alexander Wang embraced the luxuriant tex-
tures and cozy feel of fuzzy fabrics, from rich knits to
mohair to fur, to express his message in his Fall 2013
collection. Coupled with the softening of his trademark
angular quality, the feel was modern and indulgent.
A downtown edge came in the form of ribbed knit caps
and oversized fur mittens.
Grey overwhelmingly drove the line-up, though some
touches of rust, and white and black were peppered
into the mix. He also favored lowered waistlines and
crisscross details for a chic sophistication.
When it came to fur, pony took a front-and-center
spot for its unparalleled reﬂective properties, whereas
kidskin fur and lamb helped Mr. Wang develop and
deﬁne his shapes.
HERVÉ LÉGER BY MAX AZRIA
The classic Hervé Léger bandage dress is, of course,
on the menu for Fall 2013—but in his show notes,
Max Azria states that he draws inspiration from the
works of several modern French artists. Unexpected
ﬂoral and fauna references invoke the energy of the
whimsical surrealist work he admires.
This collection was darker and more discreet in
mood from last year, and it delivered an intricate
knitwear vocabulary. The label is advancing beyond
animal print with an unusually deft hand; the new
patterns are not only fresh, they foil expectations with
unique geometric applications.
Fur hooded-jackets had a powerful visual impact
here. Flu!y fox in jet black, snow white, and silver
grey demanded attention and, once combined with
the marvelous stretch prints, presented looks that
delivered a strong point of view.
JASON WU
Thanks to that stunning inaugural gown, 2013 looks
to be another great year for Jason Wu. His Fall 2013
collection is a triumphal ode to femininity.
Mr. Wu is becoming more comfortable with himself
and isn’t afraid to experiment. It seems he could be
revealing a new sexiness that will somewhat redeﬁne
his brand image. Glamorous, yet easy to wear, this
collection energized and expanded Wu’s established
aesthetic with striking, fun, and ﬂirty looks.
This time around Wu took chic American sports-
wear styles and integrated them with a few updated
street-chic pieces for a new vision of sophistication.
Combining a black exotic skin jacket with a soft
white skirt, or a fur-trimmed leather vest with a crisp
buttoned-up white shirt may not raise an eyebrow. Yet
when the juxtaposition transcends from day to evening,
the looks become fresh and fun.
JEN KAO
Jen Kao’s show felt a bit like Paris circa 1982.
The vibe was young, and the delivery was impactful.
Aside from great leatherwork, Ms. Kao introduced
a brick pattern patchwork with geometric o!shoots in
black and indigo blues. She interspersed the pattern
throughout, pairing it with leather, vinyl, denim,
neoprene, and even fur.
Her black and dark blue color palette worked
amazingly well with a few maverick additions of
silver, mid-blue, white, and gold. The result was clean,
balanced, and historical, given that these were the
color choices of 16th century French royalty.
Her fur pieces pushed the envelope with
monochromatic multi-fur patchwork and black-on-
white polka dot mink appliqué treatments that helped
take the collection from conventional to directional.
SON JUNG WAN
Son Jung Wan’s Fall 2013 collection was an
interesting medley that comfortably bridged Korean
propriety with Western sartorial largesse. The
collection—a presentation of unorthodox bipolarity
inﬂuenced by the Russian modernist art movement and
the opulence of great Russian dwellings—read surpris-
ingly modern.
Blunt cuts and proportions were tapered with softer
colors and luxe materials. Where harsher textiles
dominated a look, more intricate treatments fostered
sophistication.
Her furs were as varied as her collection. She used fox,
mink, Rex rabbit and lippi cat with equal conﬁdence,
creating full or partial sleeves, epaulettes, wrapped
collars and unisex ringed scarves. Her oversized gold
sequin embroidered fox coat stole the show.
YIGAL AZROUËL
Yigal Azrouël favors looks that enhance the female
silhouette. He uses small knits to swath torsos, belts
and peplums to zone in on the midsection, stovepipe or
PJ style trousers to elongate legs. Mr. Azrouël also likes
to wrap his girls in chunky sweaters and coats.
With his Fall 2013 collection, he opted for an
intricate, tailored ﬁt, even adding a bustier or two to
make his point. The sculptural mood continued with
body-conscious dresses, sweater coats, and even an
inverness cape.
Fur touches added to the luxe feel throughout the
line-up. From Asiatic raccoon accentuating his loden
green wool du"e coats to mouton doré ring scarves,
fur gave ﬂair and attitude to the collection. His
two-toned tiered fox jacket showcased his talent for
easy, sexy, chic dressing.
ADVERTISEMENT
Snow may have overtaken the Eastern Seaboard,
but it didn’t dampen New York Fashion Week at all.
As they say, the show must go-on. Designers and
show-goers marched on with unaltered enthusiasm
as innovation and fresh, new creative interpretations
expanded the fashion vocabulary.
THE
RUNWAY
REPORT
Hervé Léger by Max Azria
Son Jung Wan
Jen Kao
NEW YORK // FEBRUARY 13, 2013
LUXURY REIMAGINED
Fur Information Council of America 8424 A Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 860
West Hollywood, California 90069 323.782.1700 www.furinsider.com
Alexander Wang Jason Wu
For The Row, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have mastered the art of elegant simplicity, adding the subtle touch of pearls suspended from the collar
to make a black and white mink coat truly special. Altuzarra’s bold black and white geometric print fox coat made a stunningly strong and sexy
statement. And Chadwick Bell showed his mastery of fur in an elegant funnel-necked cross mink coat.
NEWS
& NOTES
Yigal Azrouël
ALEXANDER WANG
Alexander Wang embraced the luxuriant tex-
tures and cozy feel of fuzzy fabrics, from rich knits to
mohair to fur, to express his message in his Fall 2013
collection. Coupled with the softening of his trademark
angular quality, the feel was modern and indulgent.
A downtown edge came in the form of ribbed knit caps
and oversized fur mittens.
Grey overwhelmingly drove the line-up, though some
touches of rust, and white and black were peppered
into the mix. He also favored lowered waistlines and
crisscross details for a chic sophistication.
When it came to fur, pony took a front-and-center
spot for its unparalleled reﬂective properties, whereas
kidskin fur and lamb helped Mr. Wang develop and
deﬁne his shapes.
HERVÉ LÉGER BY MAX AZRIA
The classic Hervé Léger bandage dress is, of course,
on the menu for Fall 2013—but in his show notes,
Max Azria states that he draws inspiration from the
works of several modern French artists. Unexpected
ﬂoral and fauna references invoke the energy of the
whimsical surrealist work he admires.
This collection was darker and more discreet in
mood from last year, and it delivered an intricate
knitwear vocabulary. The label is advancing beyond
animal print with an unusually deft hand; the new
patterns are not only fresh, they foil expectations with
unique geometric applications.
Fur hooded-jackets had a powerful visual impact
here. Flu!y fox in jet black, snow white, and silver
grey demanded attention and, once combined with
the marvelous stretch prints, presented looks that
delivered a strong point of view.
JASON WU
Thanks to that stunning inaugural gown, 2013 looks
to be another great year for Jason Wu. His Fall 2013
collection is a triumphal ode to femininity.
Mr. Wu is becoming more comfortable with himself
and isn’t afraid to experiment. It seems he could be
revealing a new sexiness that will somewhat redeﬁne
his brand image. Glamorous, yet easy to wear, this
collection energized and expanded Wu’s established
aesthetic with striking, fun, and ﬂirty looks.
This time around Wu took chic American sports-
wear styles and integrated them with a few updated
street-chic pieces for a new vision of sophistication.
Combining a black exotic skin jacket with a soft
white skirt, or a fur-trimmed leather vest with a crisp
buttoned-up white shirt may not raise an eyebrow. Yet
when the juxtaposition transcends from day to evening,
the looks become fresh and fun.
JEN KAO
Jen Kao’s show felt a bit like Paris circa 1982.
The vibe was young, and the delivery was impactful.
Aside from great leatherwork, Ms. Kao introduced
a brick pattern patchwork with geometric o!shoots in
black and indigo blues. She interspersed the pattern
throughout, pairing it with leather, vinyl, denim,
neoprene, and even fur.
Her black and dark blue color palette worked
amazingly well with a few maverick additions of
silver, mid-blue, white, and gold. The result was clean,
balanced, and historical, given that these were the
color choices of 16th century French royalty.
Her fur pieces pushed the envelope with
monochromatic multi-fur patchwork and black-on-
white polka dot mink appliqué treatments that helped
take the collection from conventional to directional.
SON JUNG WAN
Son Jung Wan’s Fall 2013 collection was an
interesting medley that comfortably bridged Korean
propriety with Western sartorial largesse. The
collection—a presentation of unorthodox bipolarity
inﬂuenced by the Russian modernist art movement and
the opulence of great Russian dwellings—read surpris-
ingly modern.
Blunt cuts and proportions were tapered with softer
colors and luxe materials. Where harsher textiles
dominated a look, more intricate treatments fostered
sophistication.
Her furs were as varied as her collection. She used fox,
mink, Rex rabbit and lippi cat with equal conﬁdence,
creating full or partial sleeves, epaulettes, wrapped
collars and unisex ringed scarves. Her oversized gold
sequin embroidered fox coat stole the show.
YIGAL AZROUËL
Yigal Azrouël favors looks that enhance the female
silhouette. He uses small knits to swath torsos, belts
and peplums to zone in on the midsection, stovepipe or
PJ style trousers to elongate legs. Mr. Azrouël also likes
to wrap his girls in chunky sweaters and coats.
With his Fall 2013 collection, he opted for an
intricate, tailored ﬁt, even adding a bustier or two to
make his point. The sculptural mood continued with
body-conscious dresses, sweater coats, and even an
inverness cape.
Fur touches added to the luxe feel throughout the
line-up. From Asiatic raccoon accentuating his loden
green wool du"e coats to mouton doré ring scarves,
fur gave ﬂair and attitude to the collection. His
two-toned tiered fox jacket showcased his talent for
easy, sexy, chic dressing.
ADVERTISEMENT
Snow may have overtaken the Eastern Seaboard,
but it didn’t dampen New York Fashion Week at all.
As they say, the show must go-on. Designers and
show-goers marched on with unaltered enthusiasm
as innovation and fresh, new creative interpretations
expanded the fashion vocabulary.
THE
RUNWAY
REPORT
Hervé Léger by Max Azria
Son Jung Wan
Jen Kao
NEW YORK // FEBRUARY 13, 2013
LUXURY REIMAGINED
Fur Information Council of America 8424 A Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 860
West Hollywood, California 90069 323.782.1700 www.furinsider.com
Alexander Wang Jason Wu
For The Row, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have mastered the art of elegant simplicity, adding the subtle touch of pearls suspended from the collar
to make a black and white mink coat truly special. Altuzarra’s bold black and white geometric print fox coat made a stunningly strong and sexy
statement. And Chadwick Bell showed his mastery of fur in an elegant funnel-necked cross mink coat.
NEWS
& NOTES

Thursday, February 14, 2013
Lead Article
London Wants More Than a Fashion Moment by Samantha Conti
• Want to start up British luxury brands, no longer want to be a stopover for Milan, Paris, and New York
• London wants to reach for global consumers and push for British designers. Main goal is to put British
designers on the map. According to the British Fashion Council, the number of major buyers from major U.S.
stores will attend. The list includes Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York, Bergdorf
Goodman and Bloomingdale’s
• Prime Minister David Cameron wants to “reindustrialize” the fashion industry in Britain. He wants to see more
high end goods manufactured in Britain

Sections
Menswear
Man of the Week
Pushing for Performance
Fashion Scoops
WWD Digital Forum

WWD.COM
4WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2013
She stressed that fashion is for
life — not just four weeks a year.
“The British fashion industry
operates 365 days a year across
the world, and we intend to
capitalize on its creativity,” she
said. “We are at a crucial tipping
point thanks to a perfect storm
of talent working both here and
abroad. This talent has con-
sistently been the calling card
of British designers, and with
the unprecedented reach to a
global consumer — thanks to
the Internet — this is driving de-
mand, and therefore sales, glob-
ally for both British designer
brands and for the global labels
of which they are at the helm.”
She’s been in the job only
since Jan. 1, but Massenet has
already helped to attract private
sector experts — from the digi-
tal, tech, investment and retail
worlds — who are ready to con-
tribute their time and talent to
the BFC. In the coming weeks,
the BFC will reveal that a big-
name player from the digital
world will begin a collaboration
with them — boosting British
fashion’s online presence.
This season, according to the
BFC, the number of major buy-
ers in attendance will be up 18
percent year-on-year,
while a large number of
U.S. stores will attend.
The list includes Neiman
Marcus, Saks Fif th
Avenue, Barneys New
York, Bergdorf Goodman
and Bloomingdale’s.
Earlier this year, for
the first time, Prime
Minister David Cameron
threw his weight behind
the industry, pumping
up industry ﬁgures dur-
ing a speech at Number
10 Downing Street. The
speech and cocktail
kicked off the January
edition of London
Collections: Men, the
new stand-alone fashion
showcase for men’s wear
launched by the BFC
last year.
“Fashion is not just
some sort of accessory,
you’re not an add-on,”
he told industry ﬁgures
including Ford, Tommy
Hilﬁger, Richard James
and Jonathan Saunders.
The ultraenthusiastic
Cameron also told his
audience that he wants
to see more high-end
goods manufactured in
Britain as part an overall
strategy to “reindustrialize” the
country. “You have my 100 per-
cent support, so just go for it!”
Cameron was taking a
cue from his wife, Samantha
Cameron, who has been a BFC
ambassador since 2010, and
who has been hosting her own
cocktail parties at Number 10,
together with the BFC. The
next one will take place Friday
night, with designers, buy-
ers and press in attendance.
Samantha Cameron knows the
fashion crowd well since she re-
mains creative consultant to the
British luxury brand Smythson
in addition to her duties as
Britain’s First Lady.
True, London fashion has
witnessed golden moments be-
fore, most recently during the
mid-Nineties when designers
such as Alexander McQueen,
Hussein Chalayan, Antonio
Berardi, Stella McCartney,
Julien Macdonald and Matthew
Williamson rose to prominence.
But those designers eventually
quit London and decamped to
Paris, Milan or New York —
where the money, buyers and in-
ternational press were. London
gradually faded again into its
perennial role: an interesting
stopover on the calendar if there
was time to see the latest crop of
designers trained by the city’s
famed fashion schools, and to
visit the innovative retail con-
cepts that seemed to spring up
all over the city like mushrooms.
This time around, designers
are increasingly staying put in
a town that is attracting more
money, international attention
and more major names than
ever before thanks in large part
to the groundwork laid down by
the BFC over the past few years.
Ford has said his decision to
show both his men’s and women’s
collections in London was a nat-
ural one. “I’ve had a house here
since 1997, my design studio is
here and I love London. In many
ways it’s my home. A lot of [my
decision] was personal,” he said.
In addition, by the end of this
year, Ford will have 93 stand-
alone stores and shops-in-shop,
including an 8,000-square-foot
unit on Sloane Street due to open
in the second half. “So we need to
be doing a proper women’s wear
show. We’re committed to London
for the near term, and as long as
we can attract the press we need,
we’ll stay here. Ultimately, that
will be the test,” he said.
Scott, who in past seasons
has shown and presented in
New York and Paris, said she
always goes to the beat of her
own drummer when it comes to
picking a city.
“I really wanted to show in
London this time. It’s where I
create, the team is here, and it
feels like the right time, espe-
cially as we build and expand
the business in Europe. The city
itself is full of excitement and is
far more important internation-
ally than people give it credit
for,” she said, adding that she
does her print and fabric devel-
opment, embroidery work and
tailoring in the U.K.
Even London Fashion Week
veterans are getting renewed at-
tention of late, especially on the
ﬁnancial front.
Over the past six months —
and well before Kane’s deal with
PPR — two London Fashion
Week ﬁxtures secured funding
for their labels with an eye to
further international expansion.
In September Amanda
Wakeley, the brand known for its
bridal collections, long silk dress-
es, coats and suits favored by the
Duchess of Cambridge, secured
“significant” financial invest-
ment from private equity firm
AGC Equity Partners, following
the restructuring of the business.
The funds are being used to
develop the company as a luxu-
ry lifestyle brand. Luxury goods
management veteran Sagra
Maceira de Rosen is working
with Wakeley, who launched the
label in 1990, and who serves as
creative director.
In August, Mayhoola for
Investments took a minority
stake in Anya Hindmarch in a
deal valuing the business at 70
million pounds, or $110 million.
Mayhoola, a vehicle backed by
a private investor group from
the Qatari monarchy, is the
same company that acquired
Va l e n t i n o Fa s h i o n G r o u p i n J u l y.
Over the next four years
Hindmarch, who founded the
company 25 years ago, plans to
upgrade the business, ﬁne-tune
the brand positioning and boost
the geographical reach together
with ceo James McArthur.
4
LONDON PREVIEW
London Set for the Spotlight
By DAVID MOIN
LINDA HEASLEY WILL join Lane
Bryant on Monday as president and chief
executive officer, leaving behind Limited
Stores, where she held the same titles for
the past six years.
Heasley’s challenge will be to further
a strategy already set in motion by Lane
Bryant’s new owner to modernize and
turn around the performance of the $1
billion, 800-unit large-size specialty chain.
“Lane Bryant is a bit of a challenged
business,” acknowledged David Jaffe,
president and ceo of the Ascena Retail
Group Inc., which last spring acquired
the retailer through its $890 million
deal for Charming Shoppes Inc. While
Ascena’s total company sales, Internet
included, were up 1 percent on a com-
parable basis in the last quarter, Lane
Bryant was down 9 percent.
“We purchased Charming Shoppes to
get to Lane Bryant. It’s where we see the
potential. It’s an iconic, 100-year-old busi-
ness,” said Jaffe. “There have been some
changes of strategy over the last 10 years
at Lane Bryant,” hurting the performance
and perception of the business. “Now
we are trying to build a consistent look
and brand that customers will feel good
about. We believe these customers should
be afforded the same fashion choices and
the same opportunities to feel good about
the way she dresses,” Jaffe said.
Heasley’s appointment is expected to
be revealed today. The president and ceo
slot at Lane Bryant has been vacant since
last fall when Brian Woolf retired.
Jaffe listed a host of accomplishment
by Heasley at The Limited, among them
revamping product lines and introduc-
ing new brand positioning and a new
plus-size line, launching e-commerce
and a new store design, and returning
The Limited to sustained proﬁtability
for the ﬁrst time in 17 years. Earlier in
her career, she held senior-level roles at
Timberland, Limited Brands and CVS.
Since the fall, Ascena’s strategy at
Lane Bryant has been to update the mer-
chandise, marketing and image. There’s
a new logo and fresher colors seen in the
advertising, direct mail and in-store vi-
suals. “The whole idea is to bring Lane
Bryant up to the current modern aesthet-
ic of the customer,” Jaffe said.
The strategy also involves shifting
much of the store base from malls to strip
centers through store openings and relo-
cations. Ascena, with its other divisions
including Dress Barn and Maurices, is
comfortable operating stores in strip
centers and believes they provide the
greatest convenience to customers. At
least 50 new stores are seen opening in
the next three years, and in two weeks,
a 6,000-square-foot Lane Bryant will
open on New York’s 34th Street, between
Seventh and Eighth Avenues. Jaffe said
the site will be the Lane Bryant ﬂagship
and prototype for future stores.
Another opportunity is to grow the on-
line business, where 15 percent of Lane
Bryant’s sales are currently conducted.
That’s a higher percentage than most
retailers, which are generally around 10
percent or less.
FOR MORE
COVERAGE, SEE
WWD.com/
eye.
Heasley to Lane Bryant as CEO
{Continued from page one}
Julien Macdonald on the runway for spring 2012.
Tom
Ford
Alice Temperley’s store in London.
Linda
Heasley
PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN
STORE PHOTO BY INDIGO/GETTY IMAGES; FORD BY STEVE EICHNER; MACDONALD BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI
Men’s WeekMW10 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2013
by DAVID LIPKE
NEW YORK — Lanvin marked the
opening of its new men’s boutique
at 807 Madison Avenue on Tuesday
evening. The crowd, which included
Theophilus London, Monique Péan,
Timo Weiland, Alexis Stoudemire,
Charlotte Sarkozy and Dr. Lisa
Airan, explored the three-level
store, located in a historic town-
house. Two of the ﬂoors above the
store are occupied by Lanvin ofﬁces.
The 4,200-square-foot store,
which opened to the public last
month, is the first men’s bou-
tique in the U.S. and is situated
a few doors away from an existing
women’s boutique at 815 Madison
Avenue. The store design is a
new concept conceived by Lanvin
designer Alber Elbaz and archi-
tects MR Architecture + Decor.
A similar design is used in newly
opened Chicago, Hong Kong and
Beirut boutiques.
“A man needs to be reassured, to
be heard, to get straight to the point,
and to know in an instant that he is
in a place of expertise. I wanted to
recreate the spirit of an hôtel par-
ticulier where each wall, each piece
of furniture, each detail alludes to
a savoir-faire and discreet luxury
which calls upon the highest quality
materials,” said Elbaz, who was not
present at the opening party.
The ﬁrst ﬂoor houses the runway
collections of men’s designer Lucas
Ossendrijver, with the rear spaces
dedicated to sportswear, accessories
and sneakers. The latter category
has been a key sales driver in men’s,
and this season Lanvin introduced
its ﬁrst cross-training sneaker.
Tailored clothing, furnishings
and formalwear are housed on
the second ﬂoor, including a built-
in wall unit for dress shirts and
an antique vitrine for bow ties,
pinned like butterﬂies. The third
ﬂoor offers a VIP salon and made-
to-measure service, in an elegant
room anchored by an Art Deco
chandelier and the townhouse’s
original ﬁreplace.
Men’s comprises 20 percent of
total U.S. sales in Lanvin stores
and 15 percent in wholesale.
Lanvin now operates seven
stores in the U.S., including the two
New York ﬂagships; dual-gender
stores in Chicago, Las Vegas and
Beverly Hills, and women’s-only
stores in Bal Harbour, Fla., and
Malibu, Calif. A new women’s store
will open in South Coast Plaza in
Costa Mesa, Calif., midyear.
JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE: B+
Man of
THE WEEK

The pop star’s
infatuation
with clothes is
reaching new
heights with
the release of
his single “Suit
& Tie,” in which
he calls out
Tom Ford in
the video. No
shocker, then,
that he chose
the designer to
dress him for the
awards season,
including
Sunday night’s
Grammys.
Lanvin Men’s Store
Opens on Madison
China Crackdown Could Hit Men’s
by CASEY HALL

SHANGHAI — With incoming
President Xi Jinping repeatedly
flagging a crackdown on corruption
and conspicuous consumption as
top priorities for his government,
China watchers are concerned the
result may be a hit for a men’s mar-
ket traditionally buoyed by the cul-
tural practice of “gift giving.”
A new “frugal working style”
rule on civil servants also ofﬁcial-
ly went into effect last October,
banning those paid from the pub-
lic purse from throwing lavish
banquets, buying expensive cars
and accepting luxurious gifts.
Gift giving and bribery are both
widespread in China, and their
pervasiveness has been some-
thing of a boon for the world’s
top luxury brands — particularly
in regards to the men’s sector,
which has traditionally been the
backbone of China’s luxury mar-
ket. According to research from
brokerage CLSA, men account for
about 55 percent of China’s luxury
goods market, well above the glob-
al average of 40 percent.
Studies from Bain & Co. have
indicated that, between 2005 and
2009, the luxury goods market for
men in China grew by 48 percent.
By 2011, sales data at Beijing’s
Sogo Department Store showed
that men contributed 30 percent to
its total sales, yet their individual
expenditure was two to three times
higher than female customers.
Many within China are waiting
to see just how serious the ﬂagged
crackdown will be and how much
impact it will have on gift giving,
with experts divided on the poten-
tial for damage to luxury sales.
“If there is an effective crack-
down on corruption, the gift-
giving culture will be changed in
China,” said He Jiahong, a pro-
fessor at Renmin University and
an expert on corruption. “I think
the corrupt ofﬁcials will be more
careful, and will ﬁnd more invis-
ible means for their wealth.”
Flora Sapio, a professor
of Chinese law at the Chinese
University of Hong Kong, said
that while she believes the incom-
ing government is serious about
cracking down on corruption, the
affect on gift giving and a cul-
ture of conspicuous consumption
among China’s political and busi-
ness elite will be minimal.
“Today, gift-giving is a minor
form of corruption. The best corrupt
deals are to be made elsewhere: in
the real estate sector, on the stock
market, through the manipulation
of public-private partnerships, just
to name a few,” Sapio said.
“The display of luxury goods
testiﬁes to the lifestyle of China’s
political-economic elite, their in-
come levels and consumption pat-
terns. None of these is going to
change signiﬁcantly in the near
future, unless China experiences a
serious economic downturn, which
is highly unlikely,” added Sapio.
Whatever the future impact,
the idea of a crackdown on cor-
ruption has been popular with the
chattering classes, with a number
of high proﬁle “outings” of corrupt
ofﬁcials by Chinese netizens.
One standout was the case of
“Brother Watch.” The nickname
was bestowed by the Chinese
Internet on a lowly bureaucrat
(with a commensurately lowly sal-
ary) who was photographed wear-
ing a number of expensive, pres-
tige brand watches.
Prestige watches have been a
favored gift for politically, economi-
cally and socially — and sometimes
all three — powerful men in China
and, in recent years, Beijing’s regu-
lar Party Congresses have become
a parade of straight-faced suits
sporting Rolex, Omega, Cartier and
Patek Philippe timepieces.
“The ﬁrst watches were brought
to China by French missionaries in
the 17th century and were original-
ly a gift to emperors and so on. So
the love affair between watches and
China and the relationship between
men in China and the culture of
gifting have developed in tandem,”
David Sadigh, chief executive of-
ﬁcer of Digital Luxury Group, told
WWD. The group recently released
a report called “World Luxury
Index China: Watches.”
Research from Bain showed
yearly sales of luxury watches
fell 5 percent on Mainland China
in 2012, compared to growth of as
much as 40 percent in 2011, and
statistics from the Federation of
the Swiss Watch Industry show that
Swiss watch exports to Mainland
China dropped 27.5 percent year-
on-year in September.
China’s slowing economy is
obviously one factor at play in the
slowdown of the formerly red-hot
men’s prestige watch market, but
Sadigh points to the corruption
crackdown as another cause.
“The impact of a crackdown on
corruption in China is very impor-
tant and we have already seen this,”
Sadigh said. “I think we have to be
very careful and we don’t know what
will happen, but I think for watches
especially, as far as global brands
are concerned, they should be very
careful with how luxury goods and
these kind of things will be per-
ceived by this government.”
There is an upside for some with-
in with high-end men’s market in
China, with Microsoft Advertising’s
“Luxury Connoisseurs” study ﬁnd-
ing that more men are buying luxury
goods for themselves than ever.
“If you look at the percentage
of men buying for personal versus
gifts, the majority is personal, even
for men. Of the gift giving, men
do a larger percentage, but over
three-quarters of the men’s market
is still personal buying,” said Adam
Anger, the Greater China region’s
general manager for advertising
and online at Microsoft.
Pierre Xiao Lu, author
of “Luxur y China, Market
Opportunities and Potentials” and a
luxury business consultant, said this
shift away from gifting and towards
personal consumption will be a boon
for the men’s personal care seg-
ments, which he predicted will grow
at a “positive double-digit” rate.
Though other segments of the
luxury market traditionally driv-
en by men will perhaps grow at a
slower rate than in recent years,
Lu is quick to emphasize that
there will still be growth.
“For fashion and accessories,
I think they will be stable, but still
growing. The most affected sectors
will be watches and jewelry,
other things — from wine and
spirits, yachts, cars, private jets
— will continue to grow at a sta-
ble rate,” Lu said.
Brands such as Salvatore
Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta
have already invested heavily
in the rising personal consump-
tion of Chinese men on the
lookout for stylish substance
over excess bling by expanding
their product ranges and setting
up specialty gents stores in the
Greater China region.
“I can say that for
Fe r r a g a m o , t h e m e n’ s c a t e g o -
ries [in China] are signiﬁcantly
important,” said Michele Norsa,
ceo of Salvatore Ferragamo. “All
together worldwide, we do ap-
proximately 40 percent in men’s,
and in China it’s 45 percent, so
China is a particularly strong
market for men’s.”
Norsa believes his brand will
be cushioned by the impact of
any softening in the gift giving
market because the belts, ties
and wallets often given as gifts
from Salvatore Ferragamo are
“not so ostentatious. We are not
talking about items that could be
subject to moral judgment.”
In addition, Norsa was con-
ﬁdent that, even if there was an
impact on business following
a slowdown in gift giving, the
increase in business from sec-
ond- and third-tier cities, which
are continuing to embrace lux-
ury brands at a rapid pace, will
more than make up for it.
“I was in China recently and I
saw the mood after the political
changes appears to be good, so
we are looking forward to 2013
to being a positive year,” Norsa
said. “The lead up to Chinese
New Year is always a good time
and it’s very visible in Europe
to see significant numbers of
Chinese shopping here. It’s im-
portant to our industry and we
are very committed to Chinese
nationals both within China and
internationally as well.”
Inside the new Lanvin
men’s boutique.
“If there is an
e!ective crackdown
on corruption,
the gift-giving
culture will be
changed in China.”
— HE JIAHONG,
RENMIN UNIVERSITY
Mannequin makeup works better in moderation.
Long gone are the curly gold locks of his ’N Sync days.
However, he might have to give the ﬂatiron a break and
go for a little more of a natural look.
The perfectly imperfect oversize bow tie is humorous,
but a skinnier model would deﬁnitely be cooler.
The silk moire tuxedo jacket shows he’s trying a bit too
hard, but the shawl lapel brings it down a notch. After all,
it IS the Grammys.
A little too precious perhaps, but we’re just splitting
hairs. It’s pretty fabulous.
The jacket ﬁts him well; however, men with
very narrow frames beneﬁt from shorter
silhouettes, and Timberlake would look less
stu!y with a cropped blazer.
The pants ﬁt him perfectly, and the cummerbund is
subtle but nonetheless present.
PHOTO BY STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE
The black-and-white loafers take the overall look into
costume territory. Picture it: Cotton Club, 1920, jazz
hands. The only thing missing is the straw bowler.
Perry Ellis was a pioneer in playfulness—and today his legacy
of levity makes for a brilliant lens. So boldly go by your gut.
Check off a new box. Step out of line. Because it’s a bright,
bright future when you’ve got Very Perry vision.
February 14, 2013
ADVERTISEMENT
Men’s WeekMW10 WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2013
by DAVID LIPKE
NEW YORK — Lanvin marked the
opening of its new men’s boutique
at 807 Madison Avenue on Tuesday
evening. The crowd, which included
Theophilus London, Monique Péan,
Timo Weiland, Alexis Stoudemire,
Charlotte Sarkozy and Dr. Lisa
Airan, explored the three-level
store, located in a historic town-
house. Two of the ﬂoors above the
store are occupied by Lanvin ofﬁces.
The 4,200-square-foot store,
which opened to the public last
month, is the first men’s bou-
tique in the U.S. and is situated
a few doors away from an existing
women’s boutique at 815 Madison
Avenue. The store design is a
new concept conceived by Lanvin
designer Alber Elbaz and archi-
tects MR Architecture + Decor.
A similar design is used in newly
opened Chicago, Hong Kong and
Beirut boutiques.
“A man needs to be reassured, to
be heard, to get straight to the point,
and to know in an instant that he is
in a place of expertise. I wanted to
recreate the spirit of an hôtel par-
ticulier where each wall, each piece
of furniture, each detail alludes to
a savoir-faire and discreet luxury
which calls upon the highest quality
materials,” said Elbaz, who was not
present at the opening party.
The ﬁrst ﬂoor houses the runway
collections of men’s designer Lucas
Ossendrijver, with the rear spaces
dedicated to sportswear, accessories
and sneakers. The latter category
has been a key sales driver in men’s,
and this season Lanvin introduced
its ﬁrst cross-training sneaker.
Tailored clothing, furnishings
and formalwear are housed on
the second ﬂoor, including a built-
in wall unit for dress shirts and
an antique vitrine for bow ties,
pinned like butterﬂies. The third
ﬂoor offers a VIP salon and made-
to-measure service, in an elegant
room anchored by an Art Deco
chandelier and the townhouse’s
original ﬁreplace.
Men’s comprises 20 percent of
total U.S. sales in Lanvin stores
and 15 percent in wholesale.
Lanvin now operates seven
stores in the U.S., including the two
New York ﬂagships; dual-gender
stores in Chicago, Las Vegas and
Beverly Hills, and women’s-only
stores in Bal Harbour, Fla., and
Malibu, Calif. A new women’s store
will open in South Coast Plaza in
Costa Mesa, Calif., midyear.
JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE: B+
Man of
THE WEEK

The pop star’s
infatuation
with clothes is
reaching new
heights with
the release of
his single “Suit
& Tie,” in which
he calls out
Tom Ford in
the video. No
shocker, then,
that he chose
the designer to
dress him for the
awards season,
including
Sunday night’s
Grammys.
Lanvin Men’s Store
Opens on Madison
China Crackdown Could Hit Men’s
by CASEY HALL

SHANGHAI — With incoming
President Xi Jinping repeatedly
flagging a crackdown on corruption
and conspicuous consumption as
top priorities for his government,
China watchers are concerned the
result may be a hit for a men’s mar-
ket traditionally buoyed by the cul-
tural practice of “gift giving.”
A new “frugal working style”
rule on civil servants also ofﬁcial-
ly went into effect last October,
banning those paid from the pub-
lic purse from throwing lavish
banquets, buying expensive cars
and accepting luxurious gifts.
Gift giving and bribery are both
widespread in China, and their
pervasiveness has been some-
thing of a boon for the world’s
top luxury brands — particularly
in regards to the men’s sector,
which has traditionally been the
backbone of China’s luxury mar-
ket. According to research from
brokerage CLSA, men account for
about 55 percent of China’s luxury
goods market, well above the glob-
al average of 40 percent.
Studies from Bain & Co. have
indicated that, between 2005 and
2009, the luxury goods market for
men in China grew by 48 percent.
By 2011, sales data at Beijing’s
Sogo Department Store showed
that men contributed 30 percent to
its total sales, yet their individual
expenditure was two to three times
higher than female customers.
Many within China are waiting
to see just how serious the ﬂagged
crackdown will be and how much
impact it will have on gift giving,
with experts divided on the poten-
tial for damage to luxury sales.
“If there is an effective crack-
down on corruption, the gift-
giving culture will be changed in
China,” said He Jiahong, a pro-
fessor at Renmin University and
an expert on corruption. “I think
the corrupt ofﬁcials will be more
careful, and will ﬁnd more invis-
ible means for their wealth.”
Flora Sapio, a professor
of Chinese law at the Chinese
University of Hong Kong, said
that while she believes the incom-
ing government is serious about
cracking down on corruption, the
affect on gift giving and a cul-
ture of conspicuous consumption
among China’s political and busi-
ness elite will be minimal.
“Today, gift-giving is a minor
form of corruption. The best corrupt
deals are to be made elsewhere: in
the real estate sector, on the stock
market, through the manipulation
of public-private partnerships, just
to name a few,” Sapio said.
“The display of luxury goods
testiﬁes to the lifestyle of China’s
political-economic elite, their in-
come levels and consumption pat-
terns. None of these is going to
change signiﬁcantly in the near
future, unless China experiences a
serious economic downturn, which
is highly unlikely,” added Sapio.
Whatever the future impact,
the idea of a crackdown on cor-
ruption has been popular with the
chattering classes, with a number
of high proﬁle “outings” of corrupt
ofﬁcials by Chinese netizens.
One standout was the case of
“Brother Watch.” The nickname
was bestowed by the Chinese
Internet on a lowly bureaucrat
(with a commensurately lowly sal-
ary) who was photographed wear-
ing a number of expensive, pres-
tige brand watches.
Prestige watches have been a
favored gift for politically, economi-
cally and socially — and sometimes
all three — powerful men in China
and, in recent years, Beijing’s regu-
lar Party Congresses have become
a parade of straight-faced suits
sporting Rolex, Omega, Cartier and
Patek Philippe timepieces.
“The ﬁrst watches were brought
to China by French missionaries in
the 17th century and were original-
ly a gift to emperors and so on. So
the love affair between watches and
China and the relationship between
men in China and the culture of
gifting have developed in tandem,”
David Sadigh, chief executive of-
ﬁcer of Digital Luxury Group, told
WWD. The group recently released
a report called “World Luxury
Index China: Watches.”
Research from Bain showed
yearly sales of luxury watches
fell 5 percent on Mainland China
in 2012, compared to growth of as
much as 40 percent in 2011, and
statistics from the Federation of
the Swiss Watch Industry show that
Swiss watch exports to Mainland
China dropped 27.5 percent year-
on-year in September.
China’s slowing economy is
obviously one factor at play in the
slowdown of the formerly red-hot
men’s prestige watch market, but
Sadigh points to the corruption
crackdown as another cause.
“The impact of a crackdown on
corruption in China is very impor-
tant and we have already seen this,”
Sadigh said. “I think we have to be
very careful and we don’t know what
will happen, but I think for watches
especially, as far as global brands
are concerned, they should be very
careful with how luxury goods and
these kind of things will be per-
ceived by this government.”
There is an upside for some with-
in with high-end men’s market in
China, with Microsoft Advertising’s
“Luxury Connoisseurs” study ﬁnd-
ing that more men are buying luxury
goods for themselves than ever.
“If you look at the percentage
of men buying for personal versus
gifts, the majority is personal, even
for men. Of the gift giving, men
do a larger percentage, but over
three-quarters of the men’s market
is still personal buying,” said Adam
Anger, the Greater China region’s
general manager for advertising
and online at Microsoft.
Pierre Xiao Lu, author
of “Luxur y China, Market
Opportunities and Potentials” and a
luxury business consultant, said this
shift away from gifting and towards
personal consumption will be a boon
for the men’s personal care seg-
ments, which he predicted will grow
at a “positive double-digit” rate.
Though other segments of the
luxury market traditionally driv-
en by men will perhaps grow at a
slower rate than in recent years,
Lu is quick to emphasize that
there will still be growth.
“For fashion and accessories,
I think they will be stable, but still
growing. The most affected sectors
will be watches and jewelry,
other things — from wine and
spirits, yachts, cars, private jets
— will continue to grow at a sta-
ble rate,” Lu said.
Brands such as Salvatore
Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta
have already invested heavily
in the rising personal consump-
tion of Chinese men on the
lookout for stylish substance
over excess bling by expanding
their product ranges and setting
up specialty gents stores in the
Greater China region.
“I can say that for
Fe r r a g a m o , t h e m e n’ s c a t e g o -
ries [in China] are signiﬁcantly
important,” said Michele Norsa,
ceo of Salvatore Ferragamo. “All
together worldwide, we do ap-
proximately 40 percent in men’s,
and in China it’s 45 percent, so
China is a particularly strong
market for men’s.”
Norsa believes his brand will
be cushioned by the impact of
any softening in the gift giving
market because the belts, ties
and wallets often given as gifts
from Salvatore Ferragamo are
“not so ostentatious. We are not
talking about items that could be
subject to moral judgment.”
In addition, Norsa was con-
ﬁdent that, even if there was an
impact on business following
a slowdown in gift giving, the
increase in business from sec-
ond- and third-tier cities, which
are continuing to embrace lux-
ury brands at a rapid pace, will
more than make up for it.
“I was in China recently and I
saw the mood after the political
changes appears to be good, so
we are looking forward to 2013
to being a positive year,” Norsa
said. “The lead up to Chinese
New Year is always a good time
and it’s very visible in Europe
to see significant numbers of
Chinese shopping here. It’s im-
portant to our industry and we
are very committed to Chinese
nationals both within China and
internationally as well.”
Inside the new Lanvin
men’s boutique.
“If there is an
e!ective crackdown
on corruption,
the gift-giving
culture will be
changed in China.”
— HE JIAHONG,
RENMIN UNIVERSITY
Mannequin makeup works better in moderation.
Long gone are the curly gold locks of his ’N Sync days.
However, he might have to give the ﬂatiron a break and
go for a little more of a natural look.
The perfectly imperfect oversize bow tie is humorous,
but a skinnier model would deﬁnitely be cooler.
The silk moire tuxedo jacket shows he’s trying a bit too
hard, but the shawl lapel brings it down a notch. After all,
it IS the Grammys.
A little too precious perhaps, but we’re just splitting
hairs. It’s pretty fabulous.
The jacket ﬁts him well; however, men with
very narrow frames beneﬁt from shorter
silhouettes, and Timberlake would look less
stu!y with a cropped blazer.
The pants ﬁt him perfectly, and the cummerbund is
subtle but nonetheless present.
PHOTO BY STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE
The black-and-white loafers take the overall look into
costume territory. Picture it: Cotton Club, 1920, jazz
hands. The only thing missing is the straw bowler.

Fashion Week Report
K A R E N C H I A N G

• Short tuxedo suit, a feathered chubby jacket
and leopard prints that harkened back to the
famous disco’s banquettes

•  The accessories picked up on the playful motifs
via enamel charms on necklaces and pins and a
black satin sandal with a tuxedo “collar” at the
ankle

• Even a pair of sunglasses formed an open pair
of lips in homage to the disco era
• It was all about the eighties at Kate Spade
New York's Fall 2013 presentation. It looked like
a set for Sex and the City reboot The Carrie
Diaries, which takes place in 1984

• Taxi-inspired heels, sparkly lip sunglasses, and
a sweatshirt featuring a sprinkle donut…hot pink
ruled, and old-school taxicabs served as props

• Kate Spade New York is fashion with a quirk
—and spun it into a full-blown world of glamour
with a sense of humor
• Kate Spade’s 80s inspiration shown through
the use of bright color and patterns

• Clever use of accessories, with simple suit
outﬁts, collar ankle shoes, lips sunglasses, and
bright yellow “taxi” clutch grabs the attention

• Bold use of colors, even with solid colors
Kate Spade is still able to make the distinctive
contrast. Kate Spade still has ways to make
the outﬁt stands out
Friday, February 8, 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G

Friday, February 8, 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• There were party frocks in pop colors, easy
day pieces like ripped denim and quilted
leather

• Some fun rounded-shoulder tops that winked
at the space suits she had in mind when
designing this collection

• Her girl is a rock ’n’ roll tomboy at heart…
bomber jacket-track pant combo in leather and
burnout plaid
• Layers of silky plaid, distressed denim, and
quilted leather created a sexy tomboy vibe—
particularly when paired with some of the
holographic pointy heels and handbags

• The clear standout, however, was outerwear

• The ﬁnale look, a persimmon-colored sheath
with sculpted shoulders worn by Ruby
Aldridge, also earned high marks and seemed
like a directional step forward
• Feminine tomboy looks, subtle reference of
her “space” inspiration blended with a futuristic
look

• Minkoﬀ used a lot of leather;, great use of
diﬀerent fabrics on same piece, such as leather
sleeves with knits

• Strong outerwear that has a lot of character

Friday, February 8, 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• Miller's imagination has a sartorial range from
band jackets to riﬀs on tuxedo dressing

• Raiding her boyfriend’s closet can aﬀord a girl
a pretty good wardrobe — if she pilfers
selectively and adds her own sexy touches

• Commercial against cool quite well…
assortment of knits and pretty ﬂorals, which
added a touch of softness to the mostly mannish
fare
• A leather-trimmed tuxedo jacket and
motorcycle jacket with a front panel of ponyskin
were both sharply done

• V-neck black cocktail dress of layered georgette
was a ﬂat-out winner

• Miller made ﬁne use of the same print in a soft
silk gown with trench coat lapels
…terriﬁc lean suit of patchwork denim and black
jacquard
• Miller incorporated many suit jackets in her
Fall collection, giving it a more masculine
look

• Beautiful patterns that are made into a
trench coat as well as a well tailored dress

• City girl with a tom boy look added with
twist of sass

Monday, February 11 , 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• Clothes radiated Karan’s sexy, body-centric
allure that has become increasingly artful over
the years

• Time and again she draped, twisted and
slashed her beloved jerseys to perfection in
fabulous dresses

• Donna also spliced wool and sheer jerseys
into gowns, sometimes adding a high-drama
cape or shearling cowl
• Capes are trending big-time, and Donna did all
kinds: asymmetrical and sweeping in jersey, built
into a jacket in double-face neoprene, to the ﬂoor
for evening

• Opaque hosiery was another Karan innovation
that we take for granted. Wrap skirts that ﬂashed a
hint of thigh were a reminder that she did them
ﬁrst

• The designer's trick here was to tap into her
DNA without feeling retro.
• The draping of the fabric were phenomenal,
as well as asymmetrical cuts.

• Model’s hair were all pulled back, giving our
full attention to the clothes

• Striking round shoulder jackets gave the
whole look a more tough look

Monday, February 11 , 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• Polished side of the retro genre with simple,
covered-up dresses and tailored separates that
highlighted the responsible side…She’s grown-
up and gotten a job

• Ruddy color palette — shown here in shades
of orange, red and blue as well as some graphic,
colorfully clashing prints

• Jacobs’ men was an element of Jacobs grunge
in a plaid car coat and rumpled sweater,
countered by some shots of fancy, like a vivid
red overcoat and crocodile embossed belts
• Marc by Marc Jacobs was always Marc's
vehicle for a kind of low-key collegiate funk,
and on that level, it's usually been a sterling
success

• A bit more wattage in the hair and makeup, a
bit more sex in the clothes

• If the prints, proportions, and satiny sheen
echoed Roxy Music fans refracting the forties
through a seventies glam lens, that too felt just
about right
• The big blowout hair on models resembled
the 70s retro era

• Jacobs uses darker palette this season, for
example dark red, brown, deep green, and blue

•  A lot of high waist skirt that are paired with
collared shirts, resembles professionalism

Monday, February 11 , 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• Hints of a forties heroine in mind, Carolina
Herrera designed a collection about glamour
and gumption

• Dresses and gowns with high keyhole
necklines had deﬁned shoulders and teeny belted
waists that highlighted the graceful movement of
the ﬂuid crepe skirts

• Developing her own prints is a source of great
pleasure and pride for Herrera. This time they
were based on ﬂowers, speciﬁcally dahlias and
urchins
• Herrera's collections don't often dovetail with
the reigning trends of the season but they're
fully realized enough to create their own
realities

• Victory-roll coif and her wasp-waisted dresses
and full skirts, she was a kind of vixenish moll

• Even with a heavy rain shower, she ﬁlled the
Lincoln Center theater venue… required the
full symphonic talents of the London
Contemporary Orchestra
• Herrera’s gowns ﬂowed beautifully, almost
lively looking.

• Middle parted, sleek pulled back with two
twists on each side coordinated with her 40s
theme

• The ﬂoral patterns were such a big statement
in Herrera’s Fall 2013 collection

Tuesday, February 12 , 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• Provided a lovely study on luxurious fabrics,
volume and silhouettes, referencing several
couture concepts

•  Main silhouette was the egg shape…layered
constructions of multiple pieces…featuring deep
armholes with low, inset pockets

• Couture touches were also demonstrated via
Japanese inﬂuences, namely intricate origami
cuts and a gathered kimono dress with a focus
on volume in the back
• Calling her collection an exploration of
classic dressmaking in sculptural silhouettes…

• Wang can't resist a bit of fur, and her black
fox cape, fastened at the neckline with a
studded leather strap over a jeweled T-shirt
dress, had charm

• Photos don't do justice to the iridescence of
a youthful pink sequined and beaded V-neck
dress
• Multiple looks from the collection
emphasized on the egg shape on the waist

• Patterns were beautiful. Especially the
yellow on purple

• The mix of diﬀerent pattern silhouettes gave
black a fun exciting look

Tuesday, February 12 , 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• Burch took her moody colors from Klimt’s
work and focused on the blending of textures
and patterns

• Find a full wardrobe’s wealth of clothes, from
sexy sheaths to dresses with waisted bodices

• Pretty, interesting and wearable, three
characteristics that added up to one very smart
collection
• Gustav Klimt painted some of the most
rapturous works… inspired that was suﬀused
with a gilded sense of romance

• Jewelry, accessories, and eyewear are rapidly
becoming cornerstones of her empire, and the
ornateness of her inspirations gave her ample
excuse to pile them on

• Art Nouveau ﬂorals, scarab prints, and
dragonﬂy motifs stoked that fairy-tale ﬂame
• Burch played with color, patterns, and
textures

• Accessories were a breath of fresh air. From
beetle necklace, wing shape sunglasses to
shoes in resemblance of bugs.

• There were no boring outﬁts, each look has
something interesting added to it

Tuesday, February 12 , 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• While the collection was outerwear-heavy,
there were some lady-killer dresses in splash-art
prints and versions in leather and wool combos

• Designer continued on that same aesthetic,
but sprinkled military references throughout

• Demonstrated that Tahari has a recharged
engine as he looks to build on his creative and
commercial power base
• Set out to evoke "a Siberian winter covering an
urban landscape" with his Fall presentation, which
featured architectural fabric installations by Gisela
Stromeyer that gave the impression of sweeping
glaciers and arctic tundra

• The set enhanced the collection, which brimmed
with impressive outerwear

• Detectable military inﬂuence in menswear items
like double-breasted peacoat and leather cargo
jackets, which were paired with slim, tailored
trousers
• Great outerwear collection, especially
the neckline on the women coats. The
funnel neck shape and adds volume.

• Tahari’s menswear looks are
sophisticated and well polished.

• The collection is a military with a twist
of futuristic look

Wednesday, February 13 , 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
• Gilles Mendel worked luxe furs, trapunto-
stitched leathers and liquid satin and velvet
panne gowns into his fall lineup

• Citing German artist Gerhard Richter as an
inspiration, Mendel worked in an earthy
palette of burgundy, copper and moss with
pops of red and royal blue

• The cozy mink intarsia pullovers and black
grooved mink coat, shown belted and over a
blouse with a high white ermine collar, looked
best
• There's no point going to a J. Mendel show if
you're queasy about fur

• He really outdid himself with his laser-cut
minks, in particular the trim black coat sliced in
a pattern so subtle, it had to be touched to be
believed

• There was a recurring biker theme here,
which Mendel cannily translated for his super-
upscale clientele
• Mendel known for his fur creation, he did not
disappoint this year. Beautifully made fur coats,
you can already know what it feels like just by
looking

• Even when it is not a fur piece, Mendel still
ﬁnds ways to incorporate fur. For example,
accessories and fur cuﬀs that goes with gowns

• Mendel also created gorgeous drape gowns in
the Fall collection

Wednesday, February 13 , 2013
KAREN CHIANG
• She loved the graphic aesthetic of Godard’s
ﬁlms — particularly his set designs, the use of red
and blue, black and white and even his fonts

• Over the top as this Sui collection was, it was
colorful and playful, with some fun pieces that
are sure to please

• Faux fur jackets and coats added volume and
texture to some of the Sixties-esque striped and
printed frocks
• Sui is probably contemporary fashion's most
lovable archaeologist, but simple historicism can
turn on a dime into a leaden nostalgia-fest

• Mash a pell-mell overload of colors, textures,
patterns, and accessories into a coherent whole

• Skirt, waistcoat, and jacket that were actually a
trompe l'oeil one-piece that zipped up the back, just
like in the olden days when the all-in-one was a cost-
eﬀective fashion solution for cash-strapped go-girls
• Vibrant, primary colors were used a lot in
her collection. Big contrast of colors.

• Patterns and textures were also a big
theme. As we can see the patterns on
model matches the socks.

• Sui portrayed quirky, fun, and
youthfulness through this collection

Wednesday, February 13 , 2013
KAREN CHIANG
• Merger of rampant athleticism and luxury
coats on Kors’ fall runway

• He binged on the sporty and the polished
with blaring colors, cobalt blue and
“taxicab” yellow shown against slick black in
exaggerated proportions that varied
between performance and ladylike

• Kors toughened up his men’s wear with
camo prints and black leather
• Many of the tailored pieces seemed built for
speed with rounded shoulders and
aerodynamic double-face construction…
Goggles added to that feeling

• Plenty of urban warriors at the show would
kill for his charcoal gray wool melton overcoat
and the pantsuit shown underneath it

• Kors' big idea for after dark, a ﬁtted
minidress with a peplum overskirt that
extended all the way to the ﬂoor in back
• The goggles added more futuristic, matrix
look

• Kors mostly used yellow, blue, and black.
Blue and Yellow pops up a lot in contrast to
black

• Camouﬂage added more of a masculine
look. It is also a smart idea to use it on fur
coats.

Thursday, February 14 , 2013
KAREN CHIANG
• Though most were black or navy, Lauren
lightened the lineup with a roomy ivory toppe

• Lauren broke up the mannish inﬂuence
with lovely ﬂuid dresses in deep-toned velvets
— wine, blue, purple

• Cases in point: a divine beaded jersey with
plunging neckline and a midnight column
with jeweled yoke that channeled one of
Lauren’s favorite ladies, Audrey Hepburn
• Lauren took us on a romantic voyage with
naval-inspired pieces, vaguely Russian-feeling
velvets and tapestry embroideries, and dramatic
eveningwear

• Extending the sailor theme into evening, a
ﬁtted ﬁsherman sweater and to-the-ﬂoor tiered
black skirt in taﬀeta and organza—a modern
mix of day and night

• Closed with a group of jewel-tone shirred
taﬀeta gowns made all the more grand by the
fur hats the models wore
• Hint of Russian inﬂuence when fur hats
were worn with the gowns in the end

• There were also sailor inﬂuences; subtle
bows around the neck, marine symbol on a
long dress

• Many high waist trousers; beautifully
tailored pieces

Thursday, February 14 , 2013
KAREN CHIANG
• Roy took ornate details from 17th- and
18th-century art and applied them to the
clothes in a variety of ways

• Some of it looked rich, but at times Roy
could have used a little restraint

• White knit sweater shown with a chic
paisley like jacquard pencil skirt, and a
chevron and embroidered bomber jacket
— were her best
• Digital runway show rather than a formal
presentation

• A chambord-colored bomber jacket with
spiky beads at the shoulders and metallic
jacquard panels, which was paired with a
brocade velour pencil skirt, illustrated the mix
of materials here

• There were a few eclectic ensembles that felt
a bit too busy, but those could usually be
broken down into their individual pieces,
which were very wearable for the most part
• The patterns – damask design
somewhat reﬂected a French royalty
look

• Roy uses statement belts in her darker
color pieces

• Each piece is very wearable in a daily
life

Thursday, February 14 , 2013
KAREN CHIANG
• Perhaps the most overtly glamorous
collection Jacobs has ever done

• First allowing the audience to see
everything only in blacks, grays and an
otherworldly sepia…The light then changed
to something resembling normal, revealing a
gorgeous palette of neutrals and soft colors

• Jacobs opted for traditional materials of the
most luxe sort: double-faced cashmeres and
alpacas; reﬁned silks ample fur — beaver, fox,
mink
• Cable-knit sweaters, tailored blazers and
vests, silk pajamas, fox chubbies, scads of high-
waisted briefs—all familiar from Jacobs' oeuvre

• In a New York season strong on real-life
clothes, the straightforwardness of that
approach resonated

• There were terriﬁc coats here for days, as
well as neat little oﬃce-bound sweater and
pencil skirt sets. For after-dark, Jacobs layered
on those sequins
• Jacobs did not shy away from furs
this season. Pairing it with sequence
dresses, and as a coat

• Jacobs also used softer colors –
blues, deep green, and burgandy

• The fur scarfs were unique, they
looked like real animal wrapped
around the models

Five Trends (Fall 2013)
K A R E N C H I A N G

Metallic Shine

Asymmetrical
!

Modern Military

Leather

Camel Color

Three Top Shows
K A R E N C H I A N G

•  Burch’s Fall 2013 collection showed
inspiration from the 20s, 30s, 40s , not
only was it shown in clothes, but also see a
strong inﬂuence on the accessories.
Clutches, shoulder bags, and sunglasses
all reﬂected the vintage look

•  The collection did not shy away from
bold use of prints. From Art Nouveau
ﬂorals, scarab prints, to dragonﬂy motifs

•  Great thing about Burch’s collection is
that it is both wearable for professional
occasions and evening events. The styles
are chic and ﬂattering to almost all body
types
•  Karan want back to her own ﬁrst success – The Seven
Sensations of the mid-eighties
•  Black stretch jersey with sheer inset at the waist, topped by a
matching stretch wrap hugs the body beautifully. Also, the
asymmetrical drape from one should to another and the way it
ﬂows as model walks was stunning
•  Karan focused on black and brown mostly throughout the
collection. Which gave it an easier transition from day to night
•  Herrera’s models were ﬂawlessly groomed, with their hair
twisted into 1940s chignon rolls. It adds on a more cinematic
quality to the whole collection
•  Big ﬂoral patterns are key in Herrera’s Fall 2013 collection.
Dahlias and urchins prints on graceful movement gowns
•  After seeing so much fur on models, it is refreshing to see how
Herrera use fur in her collection. I ﬁnd it very interesting how she
added fur on the sides of the pocket

Press Release
K A R E N C H I A N G

For Immediate Release

Forties Glamour Throwback
With

NEW YORK, NY
– Carolina Herrera debuts her Fall 2013
collection, focusing on 40s
glamour
on
Monday, February 11 at the Theatre in Lincoln Center at 10 a.m.

For the Fall 2013 collection fashion
show
, Herrera
will create an
elegant world
combining
fashion
and
the
symphonic talents of the London Contemporary Orchestra
.
Without any fuss over music playlists or booking a DJ for the show, Herrera hires an expensive British music director Tom Hodge t
o compose a one and only piece for her show
– the
Capriccio
for Carolina
. The London Contemporary Orchestra performed the masterpiece and is recorded at
the Abbey Road Studios.
The
studio is
notable for having The Beatles record there,
where
Abbey
Road
album is
nam
ed after the
street where the studio is located.

Model will stroll down the runway with impeccably groomed hair with chignon b
raids on the
side portraying the hairstyle in the 40s. Rose color lipsticks and light makeup allows the clothes to do show its gracefulness.

There will be a rich amount of drama and emotion as the show progress.
Graphically, large
abstracted dahlias and
urchins prints, keyhole busts, and teacup sleeves
all
references to the 40s
spirit are to be expected for the collection.
Fur will also play a major role in this collection and
will come in different forms and colors.

Herrera known
top quality, classy, b
eautiful gowns and dresses will not disappoint and will strike
again during this year’s Fall 2013 collection.

Press Contact
: Karen Chiang

Public Relations Director

408.821.2115

[email protected]

@karenchiang

WWD Editors List
K A R E N C H I A N G

WWD Editors List

Monday

Tuesday

Wednesday

Thursday

Friday

Alessandra Turra

Textiles

Alexandra Steigrad

Accessories

Accessories

Business/Legal
News

Arnold J. Karr

Finance

Arthur Freidman

Textiles

Belisa Silva

Beauty

Casey Hall

China Menswear Market

David Lipke

Men's Fashion

David Moin

E-Commerce

Retail

Retail

Evan Clark

Business

Retail Finance

Business

Jean E. Palmieri

Sportswear

Celebrity Menswear

Menswear Business

Jennifer Weil

European Beauty

European Beauty

Joelle Diderich

Finance

Luxury Brand Accessories

Julie Naughton

Beauty

Beauty

Karyn Monget

Innerwear/

Bodywear

Kathleen E. McLaughlin

International Business

Kristi Ellis

Government

Government

Laure Guilbault

European Fashion Business

Lisa Lockwood

Fashion Business

Fashion Week

Luisa Zargani

Milan Fashion
News

Milan Fashion
News

Matthew Lynch

Eye Reporter

Miles Socha

European Fashion Business

Paris Fashion
Week

European Fashion Business

Molly Prior

Beauty
Finance

Rachel Brown

West Coast Retail

West Coast Retail

Rosemary Feitelberg

Weather and
Retail

Samantha Conti

London Luxury

London Luxury
Brand

Sharon Edelson

Specialty Retail

Specialty Retail

Taylor Harris

Eye Reporter

Vicki M.
Young

Finance

Fashion Week x WWD

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